Category Archives: Tasting Notes

Sour Wine? Vinegar Demystified

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2013-07-02 18.12.18-1More proof that everything sounds better in French? Sour wine, anyone? I didn’t think so. But, vinegar – from the French words vin (wine) and aigre (sour) – is a much more palatable sounding product. In fact, some vinegars are quite coveted in the culinary world, commanding high prices at specialty shops (more on that later).

Like wine, vinegar has become very popular as of late, touted with a myriad of benefits and uses. Recent research findings show a positive correlation between vinegar consumption and an increase in calcium absorption and a reduction in fat build-up as well as having antiglycemic properties in diabetics. Outside the kitchen, vinegar is removing wine stains from clothing, cleaning windows without streaks and eliminating water marks on wood.

With an entwined etymology, vinegar and wine are similar yet so different. Both entail fermentations and find their way to the table. But, while one is great for drinking, the other is most often best left for salads and marinades. Moreover, whereas winemakers are careful to limit exposure to air (and oxygen, specifically), vinegar producers are more welcoming. In fact, they need to promote the acetobaceter group of bacteria to engage in a secondary fermentation to first convert the must to an aldehyde and then eventually to acetic acid.

Produced from a diverse set of ingredients, vinegars range from the basic white, distilled variety to apple cider and rice wine (commonly produced in Asia) among many others. And, true to its name, some vinegar is actually made from wine, or at least, from grapes. As long as you have natural sugars that can be converted to alcohol, you have the potential makings of vinegar.

But there’s vinegar and then there’s Vinegar. High end vinegar is much more complex and concentrated and can (almost) be drunk straight (I said almost).

In this regard, Balsamic Vinegar is another story entirely and can be a confusing one at that. Head to your big box market and you’ll find large volume bottles of Balsamic with small price tags (Costco’s Kirkland Signature Balsamic Vinegar is $12.56 for 33.8 oz). Meanwhile, Sur la table has 3.5 oz of the “good stuff” priced at $179.95 and the same quantity of the “really good stuff” at Linens-n-Things will set you back $735.40. As I said, confusing.

With a history dating back to the Romans, Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is held in high regard and is the standard bearer for quality balsamic vinegar. Obtained through the reduction of cooked or concentrated grape must – in particular, Trebbiano grapes grown within the town of Modena (situated in Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region) – the must is placed into small barrels where it slowly ferments. Through the fermentation process, this traditional product is converted into acetic acid and also becomes more concentrated as it evaporates. Each year, the contents of the barrel are transferred into a smaller barrel of differing wood type, such as chestnut, juniper, cherry or oak, further adding to the complex character of the finished product.

As a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) product, the aging process requires a minimum of 12 years and all aspects of production must adhere to the rules and regulations set out by the consortium, similar to that of a PDO wine (i.e. Chianti Classico or Barolo). This product is legally called Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena and has two Certified Qualities – 12 Years (which are designated with a burgundy-colored seal) and 25 Years (which bear a gold seal). Another PDO-level vinegar is the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia, which is identically made, differing only in the specified production area (the province of Reggio Emilia, adjacent to Modena) and bottle type in which it must be packaged.

Given the time and expense to produce this coveted product, other less artisanal products have found their way to the marketplace, but without any rules or regulations governing what could or couldn’t be included on the label, it was caveat emptor.

Thankfully, in 2009, a Protected Geographic Indication (PGI) was granted for Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, with production codified and limiting the use of “Modena” to these and the PDO products. While not as labor intensive to make, the PGI product is carefully controlled, with the production area specified within the provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia. Its much shorter aging period ranges from a minimum of 60 days to three years. Aging claims are limited to the words “aged” for that handful of products aged more than 3 years.

Instead, the Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI products adhere to the LEAF quality system, which was initially implemented by Acetum. This professional grading system of the Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI is the only independently (3rd party) certified system and provides greater clarity for the consumer. With four quality designations – 1 Leaf, 2 Leaves, 3 Leaves and 4 Leaves – the LEAF system is based on based on sensory and laboratory analysis taking several characteristics/dimensions into account. After analysis is completed, the products are labeled accordingly.

Leaf System

 

 

 

In the interest of science, journalism and fun, the author conducted a formal tasting of the four LEAF categories of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI from Acetum. I think my tasting notes correspond well to the flavor profiles stated in the LEAF system, which means that it should serve you well in selecting your vinegar.

TASTING NOTES

ONE LEAF: Intense nose with woody note, acidic/sharp on the nose. Dry, high acid, sharp, savory quality. Long length.

TWO LEAVES: Intense nose with spice, wood, fig and exotic notes. Off-dry with sweeter, woody note, fig, roasted/candied fig, slightly smoother. Long length.

THREE LEAVES: Intense nose, but less sharp than the previous two. Cheesy/leesy, cocoa, roasted nuts, more viscous appearance. Not very sharp/smoother palate, with intense sweetness and fuller body. Roasted nuts, dried fig, honey. Very long length.

FOUR LEAVES: Most viscous of the four. Syrupy appearance. Intense, rich nose – smoked meat, roasted nuts, caramel, mushroom. Medium sweet, syrupy texture, very smooth. Dried fig, candied nuts, toffee, treacle, woody and spice. Very long length.

And, in terms of pricing, a quick search on Amazon.com revealed that 500ml of Two Leaves quality Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI cost $10.00 while 250ml of Four Leaves quality Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI was priced at $20.00.

For more general information on vinegar, check out the Vinegar Institute and for more details on the Acetum line of vinegars, see Modena Fine Foods’ website.

And there you have it, the quality pyramid of Balsamic Vinegar. Enjoy!

Vinegar Quality Pyramid

Discovering Sicily: A Mediterranean Jewel in Italy’s Crown

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2013-05-11 08.39.15In May 2013, I had the precious opportunity to spend a week visiting the beautiful island of Sicily, exploring its land, meeting its people and tasting its wonderful wines. This is my story.

I  stood in line at the Palermo airport, crying. Not loud wails, just silent tears rolling down my face. But, as it was my seventh visit to Italy, the intense emotion was as surprising to me as it was to anyone else who might have noticed. I felt a deep loss as I prepared to leave Sicily. In less than a week this region had somehow wrapped itself around my heart and refused to let go. I wanted to attribute this visit’s difference to my slightly improved Italian language skills, but I knew that this didn’t do it justice. There was something else – something that permitted conversations to by-pass small talk and dive right in to what really mattered; getting to know one another and feeling safe to share. I had become attached to the spirit of the island, with its fusion of Arabic, Spanish, Norse and Italian heritage, and to the spirit of the people who inhabit it.  I took a deep breath, blinked back the tears and boarded my plane knowing that I had been given a wonderful gift…

[Read the full story as a PDF: Discovering Sicily]

Sicily – a part of Italy and yet it stands apart both literally and figuratively. As an island situated off the coast of Italy’s toe (Calabria), the region is physically separate, requiring a flight or ferry to get to or from there. But, beyond geography, Sicily remains steadfast to its traditions and culture. My new friend, Federico Mammoli, of Firriato winery’s export department and originally from Rome, told me that when he first arrived on the island, he only understood about thirty percent of what people said to him, despite the fact that, of course, they all speak the same language.

As far as wine is concerned, agriculture is a big component of the economy and grapes have been cultivated here for centuries. Nearly everywhere one looks, there are vines and Sicily is responsible for an immense amount of Italian wines. Like the rest of southern Italy, the key word here was quantity, with quality a mere afterthought for many producers.

But that, to a large extent, is ancient history. Sure, Sicily still produces cheap and cheerful wines, most regions these days do, but while my formal exploration of Sicilian wine was admittedly confined to a handful of wineries, I was extremely impressed with what I found. There was complexity, depth and structure that I didn’t expect, revealing the significant quality and continued potential of Sicilian wines. And, throughout each winery visit, I was enamored not only by the wines, but also by the people and their passion and warmth. I felt so welcomed in a way that felt much differently than any other press trip that I didn’t want to leave… Hence, the tears at the airport.

One Fish, Two Fish, Red Fish…

Island Capers

Reserve in a reserve

True Cooperation

Valley of the Temples and Nectar of the Gods

Crazy with a fox (and Germans)

Recommended Wines

Dicovering Sicily: Recommended Wines

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2013-05-08 19.28.40 (2)Casa Vinicola Firriato

Quater 2012, IGPSicilia
This blend of Grillo, Catarratto, Carricante and Zibibbo has pronounced aromas of floral, blossom, and citrus. The dry palate is fresh with full body.

Favinia La Muciara 2012, IGP Sicilia
A blend of Zibbibo, Grillo and Cataratto, the nose offers wet stone and citrus aromas along with some white flowers. On the medium-bodied palate, ripe citrus flavors stand out, accompanied by minerality and a hint of salinity, reminiscent of a Fino sherry.

Favinia Le Sciabiche 2011, IGP Sicilia
Bringing together Perricone and Nero d’Avola, notes of red flowers and fresh berries greet the nose. The dry, medium+ bodied palate has good acidity and shows flavors of berries, wood, herbs and minerality.

Quater 2009, IGP Sicilia
A blend of Nero d”Avola, Perricone, Frapatto and Nerello Cappuccio, this wine spends several months in barrique. It has cocoa, woody and balsamic notes with velvet texture, dark fruit flavors and nice depth.

Ribeca 2010, IGP Sicilia
Produced from 100% Perricone, this wine offers bramble fruit on the nose with rich raspberry fruit, spice and medium tannins on the palate.

Donnafugata

Lighea 2012, IGP Terre Siciliane
This dry Zibibbo offers up heady floral and citrus aromas on the nose. The medium-bodied palate has floral, tangerine and pineapple with high acidity and long length.

Chiarandà 2009, Contessa Entellina DOP
A partially oak-aged Chardonnay, this wine has aging potential. Apple, butter and nuts dominate the nose, with a creamy, full-bodied palate and long length.

Sedàra 2010, IGP Sicilia
With Nero d’Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot, this wine has cherry and herbal aromas that persist on the palate, with firm tannins.

Mille e una Notte 2007, Contessa Entellina DOP
Primarily from Nero d’Avola, this wine offers wood, black cherry and spice aromas with an elegant, rich and layered palate, culminating in very long length.

Ben Ryé 2010, Passito di Pantelleria DOP
An intense nose with notes of marmalade, orange peel, spice, caramel and apricot repeated on the equally intense, full-bodied palate. This wine has richness, depth and long length.

 

Gorghi Tondi

“Meridiano 12″ Bianco 2012, Sicilia DOP
A blend of 70% Cataratto and 30% Chardonnay, this wine has notes of apple with vibrant acidity, medium+ body and a slight grip on the palate.

Kheirè 2012, Sicilia DOP
This 100% Grillo wine displays notes of floral, dried, herbs, pear and melon, with depth and complexity on the full-bodied palate.

Coste a Preola Rosso 2011, IGP Sicilia
This is an easy-drinking Nero d’Avola with fresh black cherry, floral and herbs on the nose and palate.

Segreante, IGP Sicilia
With 100% Syrah, this wine is very earthy and spicy with bright red fruit, medium+ body and nice length.

Grillo d’Oro Passito 2010, IGP Sicilia
Produced from botrytis-affected Grillo grapes and aged in oak for 12 months, this wine has honey, apricot and fresh grape aromas with spice, licorice and beautiful acidity on the medium-sweet palate.

 

MandraRossa

Fiano 2012, Sicilia DOP
Fresh floral, peach, nectarine and almond aromas greet the nose and persist on the palate.

Santannella 2011, IGP Terre Siciliane
A blend of Fiano and Chenin Blanc, this dry, white wine is rich and complex with beautifully balanced oak and depth.

Nero d’Avola 2012, Sicilia DOP
Displaying fresh fruit aromas of cherry and strawberry on the nose, tar, herbs and tannins pervade the rich palate.

Syrah 2012, Sicilia DOP
This wine offers blackberry, earthy and mineral notes, which are repeated on the full-bodied palate.

Cartagho 2009, IGP Sicilia
Another 100% Nero d’Avola, this wine offers up rich, intense cherry, plum, and floral aromas with herbal, tar, oak and wet leaves joining on the palate.

 

Canicatti

Satàri Frizzante 2010, IGP Sicilia
Made from 100% Cataratto, this sparker has an expressive nose of floral and pear aromas with a soft mousse, excellent acidity and ripe citrus on the palate.

La Ferla Rosato 2012, IGP Sicilia
This Nero d’Avola-Nerello Mascalese blend has a deep pink hue with notes of melon, berries and a slight grip on the palate.

Centuno Nero d’Avola 2010, IGP Sicilia
This wine offers up firm tannins, intense cherry aromas and flavors, along with tar and herbs. It needs time to evolve.

Scialo 2008, IGP Sicilia
This Nero d’Avola- Syrah blend has lovely spice, earth, herbs and red fruit aromas and flavors, with nice length.

Canicatti Aynat 2006, IGP Sicilia
This wine displays concentrated, rich cherry and cranberry fruit with woody, spice, tar and herbs on all of which linger on the full-bodied palate.

 

Tasca d’Almerita

Tascante Buonora 2012, IGP Terre Siciliane
This Carricante wine from Mt. Etna displays citrus and minerality on both the nose and palate. Fresh and structured with long length.

Didyme 2012, IGP Salina
Produced from Malvasia at Tenuta Capofara, with floral and peach aromas, this dry white has full body, with fresh fruit and vibrant acidity.

Chardonnay 2010, IGP Sicilia
Fermented in 350L French barrels (70% new and 30% 2nd and 3rd year), this wine has aromas and flavors of bruised apple, rich caramel, candied lemon and a slight toothpick character.

La Monaca Syrah 2009, IGP Sicilia
Hailing from the Sallier de la Tour estate in Monreale this wine shows red fruit, spice and earth, with silky tannins on the palate.

Rosso del Conte 2007, Contea di Sclafani DOP
This wine is rich and intense with both red and black fruit aromas and flavors. The French oak is beautifully integrated, making for an elegant, yet powerful, wine that offers very long length.

A Tale of Two Vintages

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SAUV_BLANC_2012_web_1024x1024New York wine producer, Macari Vineyards, recently released the newest vintage of its Katherine’s Field Sauvignon Blanc – 2012. Produced from 100% Sauvignon Blanc fruit sourced from the winery’s estate in Mattituck on the North Fork of Long Island, the wine is made entirely in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fresh fruit character of this grape.

Since I had a bottle of the 2011 remaining in our cellar, I decided to taste the two wines (2012 and 2011) side by side to see how vintage variation and extra aging (for the older wine) might impact what I tasted in the glass.

Not surprisingly, the 2012 had a more pronounced nose given its (relative) youth, but the 2011 was still quite fresh despite its additional year in bottle. Instead, I attributed most of the difference between the two wines to their respective vintage conditions.

The 2011 growing year was among the wettest and rainiest in Long Island’s history, making it challenging to combat mold and mildew in the vineyard as well as to coax the grapes to full ripeness. Likely given these conditions, the citrus and herbaceous aromas, which are typically inherent in cool climate Sauvignon Blanc, were more prevalent in the 2011 vintage wine. With its slight age, the acidity in this wine seemed to have rounded out and a hint of earthiness was evident on the palate.

Conversely, during the 2012 season, Long Island was blessed with warm, dry days, which meant that grape maturity was achieved more easily. Thus, while the 2012 wine displayed notes of white grapefruit, it also offered some floral aromas and tropical fruit on the nose and palate. In spite of the warmer weather, this wine appeared to be more tart, likely due to its more recent bottling, and also offered some minerality.

I enjoyed the opportunity to evaluate these two wines together, closely comparing and contrasting their individual characteristics. And, although I slightly preferred the 2012 to the 2011, I certainly did not feel that the 2011 was over the hill, and, in fact, might have preferred the 2011 instead, if I had tasted the wines with food.

While it is more difficult to find previous vintages in the market, Union Square Wines & Spirits does appear to have the 2011 in stock. The newest release should be more readily available at retail (SRP $23.00) and is also available for purchase at the winery.

The Power of Pairing: South American-inspired cuisine with Chilean wines

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A recent lunch at team-building space Cooking by the Book reminded me how carefully crafted food and wine pairings can truly enhance both the food and the wine. Chef Ruth Van Waerebeek, culinary advisor to Concha y Toro, developed a special menu designed to showcase several of the company’s wide range of wines, echoing the flavors of the wines in the food and vice versa. As a result, both the cuisine and the wines were that much more enjoyable.

The Belgium-born chef has been captivated by the culinary flavors of South America for quite some time and brings these flavors together with her classic cooking techniques. Her first course married a Peruvian ceviche with an Asian twist. The cured salmon, coupled with a layer of cucumber rolls, matched beautifully with the citrus-centric Sauvignon Blanc. Chef Ruth suggested that the ceviche would also pair well with the aperitif wine, a coastal white blend of Chardonnay and Moscato.

Next, a creamy parmesan cheese budini with a small herb salad and orange segments was joined by the rich, creamy and elegant Chardonnay from a single vineyard in Limari Valley, Chile.

As the luncheon shifted from white wines to red, the cuisine remained relatively light, yet still worked well with the wines. A savory tart made with puff pastry and flavored with gorgonzola, walnut and fig was an unusual, but effective, foil for the Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah blend, proving that you can pair vegetarian entrees with red wine.

While all of the food was absolutely delicious, the final course was my favorite. Grilled lamb with merquen adobo and a Chilean-style mint salsa was served on a bed of quinoa and accompanied by a Cabernet Sauvignon from the Puente Alto Vineyard in Chile’s Maipo Valley.

Overall, the meal reinforced how a deliberate emphasis on matching specific wines to very specific dishes can create a truly magical experience.

If you want to experience Chef Ruth’s talents firsthand, you can stay at her beautiful adobe-style home, Mapuyampay, in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. At this “Land of Resplendence,” guests can engage in hands-on cooking classes as well as make visits to wineries in the Curicó Valley. Mapuyampay Hostal Gastronomico & Cooking School

Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Coastal White 2011, Limari Valley, Chile, $12.00
A new addition to Concha y Toro’s portfolio, this floral and tropical fruit-focused wine is slightly off-dry and very easy drinking.

Concha y Toro Gran Reserva Serie Riberas (Riverbank Series) Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Colchagua Valley, Chile, $18.00
Herbal and citrus aromas. Dry with crisp acidity, white grapefruit, slight pith in finish, long length.

Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2011, Limari Valley, Chile, $23.00
Produced in a Meursault style, this barrel-fermented and oak aged Chardonnay is very restrained and elegant with crisp acidity, red apple, toothpick/woody notes and good length.

Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Reserva Privada 2009, Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah, Maipo Valley, Chile, $15.00
This 85% Cabernet Sauvignon-15% Syrah blend offered black cherry, black berry, earth and light herbal notes on both the nose and palate with firm, but ripe, tannins, medium acidity and full body.

Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Puente Alto, Chile, $26.00
A varietally-correct Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is restrained, elegant and beautifully balanced.

The Hills Are Alive with the Sound of Schiava: Grand Cru Grapevine (May 2013)

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suedtirol-wein-anbaugebiet-bozen-und-umgebung-2My colleague and friend, Tim Gaiser, was in New York in late April to sing the praises of Alto Adige, accompanied by several of the region’s winemakers. And, singing its praises is quite apropos. At a previous seminar on the region, Cornerstone Communication’s CEO Marsha Palanci explained that, “This is the only part of Italy where you can hear yodeling in one window and arias in another.” Not surprisingly, in looking at regional photos, you would half expect Julie Andrews to suddenly appear and belt out songs from the Sound of Music.

Nestled between Italy to the south and Switzerland and Austria to the north, Alto Adige is the northernmost region of Italy. The region was under Austrian rule from the defeat of Napolean until 1919, hence the yodeling. And, to this day, both German and Italian are the official languages. With the Dolomites to the East and the Alps to the north, Alto Adige is sheltered from the cold forces of the North. These mountain ranges also form a rain shadow, which limits the area’s overall rainfall, the result of which is 300 sunny days per year.

The vast valley floors are littered with apple orchard after apple orchard, which accounts for the region’s claim as the largest European producer of apples. Meanwhile, the area’s steep slopes (with an average slope of 50 to 60 degrees, similar to that found in the Mosel or Wachau) are given over to white grapes while the lower, rolling hills are planted to reds. The high elevation of these vineyards provides good sunlight, which promotes ripening, and a significant diurnal shift (temperature variation from day to night can fluctuate as much as 40 degrees F), which retains high acid levels in the grapes.

Within the region, grape production spreads out from central Bolzano in a Y-shaped configuration, bearing a striking resemblance (in Tim’s eyes) to the flux capacitor from Back to the Future. The yin-yang of past and present spills over to the grapes themselves. At nearly 20% of all plantings, Schiava is the most grown variety in the region, with its first documented mention dating to the 1600s. However, this ancient grape has been associated with Italy since the 1300s. Big berried, with thin skins, Sciava is known for producing wines with low tannins, low alcohol and cherry aromas and flavors and an almond aftertaste. These are elegant wines for everyday drinking.

Other key varieties include Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco (aka Pinot Blanc), Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Nero (aka Pinot Noir) and Lagrein, the diversity of which highlight the region’s Germanic and French influences. White plantings account for 58% and have been on the rise.

Regardless of the specific variety used, Alto Adige wines are known for their high quality. In fact, when considered separate from Trentino, Alto Adige is the smallest of Italy’s 20 regions; yet, despite its limited size, 98% of its production is at the Protected Designation of Origin level – the most of any Italian region. And that’s something to sing about.

TASTING NOTES

Kaltern Caldaro Pinot Grigio Söll 2011, Alto Adige DOC, Austria, $16.00
This is a classic Pinot Grigio with smoke, floral and citrus aromas and flavors. Twenty percent of the wine was aged in used barrels, which gives it some more depth on the palate. It is bone dry with high acidity and distinctly mineral in the long finish.

Cantina Terlano Sauvignon Blanc Quarz 2010, Alto Adige Terlano DOC, Austria, $53.00
We tasted two Sauvignon Blancs during Tim’s seminar with this being the softer style of the two. Stone and mineral characteristics co-mingled with citrus, peach and slightly herbal notes with medium+ acidity and medium to full body.

Tramin Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer 2011, Alto Adige DOC, Austria, $47.00
I really enjoyed this wine with its distinct floral and tropical fruit notes, so indicative of the Gewürztraminer grape. What I also liked was its lack of lavender/soap characteristics that some of these wines tend to have (for me). Exotic and spicy on the palate, this dry wine has beautiful acidity and long length.

Castelfeder Schiava Breitbacher 2011, Alto Adige DOC, Austria, $14.00
Pale ruby in color, this dry wine is very refreshing with high acidity and light body along with aromas and flavors of cherries, floral, earth and wet leaves. It is very easy to drink and would be a perfect accompaniment for a wide range of cuisine.

Tiefenbrunner Lagrein Riserva Linticlarus 2009, Alto Adige DOC, Austria, $26.00
Described by my friend Tony as being reminiscent of beets, this wine displays rich red and black cherry aromas joined by floral, mineral and granite notes. It has medium+ acidity and is nicely structured with full body and firm tannins and could age for up to ten years.

suedtirol-wein-anbaugebiet-mittleres-etschtal-1

 

 

 

 

All photos courtesy of Alto Adige Wines.

Eccoci Wine: Hard to Read, Easy to Enjoy

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Eccoci_rosadoWhen I first received the Eccoci wine samples, I was a bit confused. I couldn’t quite read the script signature written across the label. Fortunately, while the logo is a bit challenging to  decipher, the wines themselves are straightforward and easy to enjoy.

Although the area near Barcelona is well known for its production of Cava and Priorat wines, the Eccoci winery is producing some unusual wines in the province of Girona. Drawing from its close proximity to France (the vineyards are only one hour south of the border), the wines are made with French grape varieties including Viognier, Marsanne, Petit Manseng, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Marselan and Petit Verdot.

Eccoci practices sustainable farming methods and, while the term leaves a lot of room for interpretation, the winery’s commitment to preserving the environment is clear. In fact, it was the first Spanish winery to be Carbon Zero certified as of 2009, only one year after its first vintage.

Eccoci currently produces four wines: Blanco (white), Rosado (rosé), Tinto Premium and Tinto Super Premium (both red blends). I was immensely impressed with the white and rosé, which displayed lovely fruit and freshness. While I liked the two reds very much, they are still quite tannic and need more time before coming into their own.

Eccoci Blanco 2011, Spain, $15.00
A blend of 50% Roussanne, 30% Viognier and 20% Petit Manseng, this wine offers up floral, musk, tangerine and peach aromas. It is dry on the medium-bodied palate with ripe peach and tangerine fruit, coupled with blossom and crushed stone notes, reminiscent of a southern Rhône white.

Eccoci Rosado 2011, Spain, $18.00
This 100% Petit Verdot rosé displays musk, berry and blossom/floral aromas. The dry palate has high acidity with berry, slight citrus, mineral and herbal characteristics, culminating in long length.

Eccoci Tinto Premium 2008, Spain, $34.00
This wine brings together 34% Marselan, 33% Merlot and 33% Cabernet Franc. It was aged for three months in new Merrain French oak barrels followed by six months in bottle before release. Berries, herbs and dried floral aromas give way to rich and ripe black cherry fruit with spice and mint notes co-mingled.

Eccoci Tinto Super Premium 2009, Spain, $48.00
A blend of 60% Marselan, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, this wine was aged for 12 months in new Merrain French oak barrels, with another 12 months spent in bottle before release. Meaty with red fruit, leather and spice, the wine has high acidity, full body, firm tannins and long length.

Moscato by twos

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As one of the oldest grape varieties, Muscat (alternately known as Moscato) continues to be among the top grapes produced worldwide. Most recently, it has become increasingly popular in the U.S. market. While more known for its sweeter styles of wine, this variety can also be used to make dry wines. However, off-dry styles seem to dominate. And, with their lower alcohol levels, these are wines that will keep your head clear after a second glass.

As evidence of its popularity around the globe, such wines hail from Italy, California and even Brazil. And, they frequently come in pairs – with a white and pink version available — and may be still or sparkling.

Vinicola Aurora Carnaval Moscato White Espumante NV, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $13.00
A Charmat Method sparkling wine produced from Moscato Bianco and Moscato Giallo grapes, this wine offers up floral and peach aromas. On the palate, it is off-dry, nicely balanced by acidity, with white flowers and juicy, ripe peach flavors; simple, but balanced and refreshing.

Vinicola Aurora Carnaval Moscato Pink Espumante NV, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $13.00
From the same producer and grape variety, this wine is produced similarly to the Moscato White, but it is medium salmon in color with red flowers and red fruit. Strawberry and cherry flavors co-mingle on the off-dry palate, which is slightly sweeter than the Moscato White, yet finishes very cleanly.

Martin Weyrich Moscato Allegro 2011, California, $12.00
Produced from 100% Muscat Canelli, this is a still wine, but with a very slight effervescence perceptible in the glass and on the palate. Floral aromas greet the nose, joined by anise, sage and pear. The off-dry palate has medium+ acidity, with floral, pear, sage and slight anise/spice notes. Despite the noticeable sweetness, it finishes quite cleanly.

Martin Weyrich Pink Moscato Allegro 2011, California, $12.00
This wine is also a product of the Muscat Canelli grape, but “with just a kiss of red wine” giving it its pale pink hue. It has aromas of floral, berries and melon on the nose. Its slightly off-dry palate is less sweet than its white counterpart with slight spice, herbal and anise notes.

 

Grand Cru Grapevine: ‘Tis the Season to Think Pink (April 2013)

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CONSO-090827-4

Image courtesy of the CIVP


With indictments accusing Puxatawny Phil of fraud being filed across the country, it’s clear that everyone is ready for spring. Whether it’s cabin fever, a thorough dislike of cold weather and snow or simply a desire to wear short-sleeves and sandals, the lure of warmer weather tantalizes us all. And, small, but simple, signs – sightings of ramps and fiddlehead ferns at the market, robins heard overhead or crocuses blooming on the lawn – provide a glimmer of hope that perhaps spring has finally arrived.

Although Alfred Lord Tennyson noted that “In the spring, a young man’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love,” a wine lover’s fancy might turn to thoughts of lighter wines, with the many shades of rosé serving as a further reminder of the change of seasons, a pink lining to the dark cloud that has been winter. Thus, we happily turn our attention to the rosés of Provence this month.

We hope that you will feel lighter in your heart with a spring in your step as we usher in this time of renewal and collectively “think pink.”

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

 

‘Tis the Season to Think Pink

Admittedly, rose-hued wines can be enjoyed all year round, but the palest blush of these pink wines heralded the near arrival of spring in New York as producers from Provence strutted their wines for press and trade in early March. Moreover, the message was made clear – thinking pink is no longer a fad. With nine years of growth in the U.S. market, rosé is one of the U.S.’s fastest growing wine categories in retail sales. While rosé wines hail from all over the wine world,  France is the number one producer of rosé wine worldwide and Provence accounts for forty percent of all the French quality-level rosé wine production. In fact, the majority of Provence’s production (nearly 88 percent) is allocated to making rosé wines.

Blessed with near perfect, Mediterranean climate conditions, Provence prides itself on being the birthplace of all French wine. In fact, winemaking in the region dates to 600 BCE, representing a total of twenty-six centuries of wine production in France. Although the regional area is the IGP de Méditerranée, most Provencal wine is produced at the AOC-level with lovely dry rosés made principally from Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsaut. Tibouren, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon also complement these blends.

The 65,000 acres dedicated to rosé production are centered in three appellations: Côtes de Provence, which has three sub-appellations, and is the largest at 73 percent of overall production; Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, which comprises an additional 17 percent of production; and Coteaux Varois en Provence, which accounts for the remaining 10 percent.

Almost all of these wines are produced using temperature-controlled, stainless steel fermentation with an emphasis on maintaining vibrant acidity and fresh fruit aromas and flavors. These dry style rosés are exceptionally food-friendly, pairing well with a broad range of cuisines as well as being easily enjoyed on its own.

 

Les Vins Bréban L’Opale de la Presqu’ile de Saint Tropez 2012, Côtes de Provence, France, $14.00 This wine brings together 50% Grenache, 30% Carignan and 20% Cinsault. It was meatier and fleshier than some of the other wines I sampled that day with berry and peach notes. Nicely structured with slight grip and a hint of citrus pith, the wine has long length.

Mas de Cadenet Arbaude Rose 2012, Côtes de Provence, France, $15.00 Established by the Négrel family, Mas de Cadenet celebrates its 200th anniversary this year, with the 7th generation now at the helm. The family’s estate, named for a shrub in the juniper family, is situated near Aix-en-Provence. The Arbaude cuvée is a blend of 70% Syrah, 15% Carignan and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and displays fleshy, melon aromas and flavors with vibrant acidity, slight citrus pith and minerality on the elegant palate.

Maison Saint Aix AIX 2012, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, France, $20.00 With its very attractive, graphic label, this wine caught my eye across the room. After tasting it, it won over my palate as well. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Counoise, this wine offers up fresh, ripe berry fruit character on both the nose and palate. A slight minerality is evident on the palate, culminating in long length.

Château Coussin 2012, Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire, France, $25.00 Produced by the Sumerire family, which traces its heritage in the area back to the 13th century, this wine is a blend of Grenache (70%), Cinsault (20%) and Syrah (10%). It has a beautifully floral nose with delicate fruit on the palate, which is joined by a hint of minerality in the finish. I also had the opportunity to taste the 2011 vintage of this wine, which showed some complexity in its year of development with darker fruit character than the 2012.

Château d’Esclans 2012, Côtes de Provence, France, $35.00 Well-known for its Whispering Angel rosé, Caves d’Esclans produces several other rosé wines including this one, which is a blend of Grenache, Rolle, Syrah, Tibouren and Cinsault. With some of the wine spending time in neutral oak barrels and undergoing bâtonnage (lees stirring), this wine takes on some complexity and structure, but still displays hallmark floral, melon and berry aromas.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Recanati Wines, In Search of a Few Good Grapes (March 2013)

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Recanati Vineyards MapThink Bordeaux and the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot varieties naturally spring to mind, while thoughts of Burgundy immediately recall Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But when it comes to Israeli wines, no specific grape variety comes to mind. Recanati’s winemaker, Gil Shatsberg, agrees. Moreover, he knows that the last thing that the world needs is another Merlot or Chardonnay. Yes, he does produce wines from these two (and other) grape varieties, but, since 2008, Gil has been working to more clearly define Israeli wines.

Shatsberg’s quest coincided with his arrival at Recanati. Launched in 2000, Recanati is owned by Lenny Recanati, an Israeli businessman with a passion for collecting wine. Originally from Saloniki, the Recanati family then lived in Italy for centuries before moving to Israel in 1933. With this Italian heritage, Lenny’s parents made wine from grapes grown in the backyard when he was a child, nurturing his love of wine. They winery initially produced 200,000 bottles and currently has an annual production of 83,000 cases, with 80% devoted to reds and 20% to whites.

Today, Shatsberg is looking to make wines that work well in Israel, beginning with the country’s Mediterranean climate and ending with the diversity of Israeli cuisine. Consequently, his search has led him to plant Mediterranean grape varieties such as Viognier, Petite Sirah and Grenache. Similarly, he has found existing vineyards that meet the same criteria such as a dry-farmed vineyard with 30 year old Carignan vines in the Judea Hills. Overall, he aims for elegant wines without high alcohol levels and that are meant to be drunk young, choosing to pick early, macerate for only a short period of time and ferment at cool temperatures.

Although many of the newer plantings have not yet come online, the winery is producing high quality wines from the usual suspects and has started its focus on Mediterranean blends. And, unlike the kosher wines from childhood memory, these certified kosher wines are an absolute pleasure to drink!

WINE TASTING NOTES

Recanati Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Shomron, Israel, $15.00
Sourced from grapes grown in the Upper Galilee, this wine delivers aromas of tropical fruit, pineapple and slight floral notes. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, rich and ripe fruit (especially pineapple), slight spice, and a round, full body, culminating in medium to long length.

Recanati Special Reserve White 2010, Galilee, Israel, $53.00
Produced from a vineyard selection of the winery’s top vines, harvested at limited yields, this wine is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 25% Viognier and 25% Sauvignon Blanc. Fermented in barrels with sur lie/bâtonnage aging, Shatsberg looks to Burgundy as his winemaking inspiration for this wine. The result is notes of honey, oak, pineapple, spice and orange with a dry palate of medium+ acidity and full body. Flavors of pineapple, tropical fruit, orange/tangerine, floral and a hint of peach are joined by slight spice and toothpick character in the finish.

Recanati Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Galilee, Israel, $17.00
Although these grapes are planted at a lower elevation than many other Recanati vineyards, this wine is still lively on the palate despite its big, bold fruit profile. The pronounced nose of blackberry and plum gives way to spices – cinnamon and anise. Dry on the palate with medium+ acidity and soft tannins, juicy fruit dominates the wine’s flavor profile.

Recanati Petite Sirah-Zinfandel Reserve 2011, Galilee, Israel, $26.00
A blend of 95% Petite Sirah, accented with 5% Zinfandel, Gil notes that it is important to green harvest (remove unripe grapes early on in the season) the Petite Sirah, which is capable of high yields, in order to permit the grapes to fully ripen. Intense floral, red fruit and spice aromas greet the nose. The dry palate has medium+ acidity and medium+ tannins with ripe, but balanced, red and black fruit character and long length.

Recanati Wild Carignan Reserve 2011, Judea Hills, Israel, $50.00
Produced from 100% Carignan grapes, this wine is sourced from an old vineyard near the kibbutz where Gil grew up and spends six to eight months aging in barrel. The nose offers up aromas of black fruit, blueberry, slight oak and cinnamon/spice. The dry palate has medium+ acidity along with notes of vanilla and black and bramble fruit. Despite a slight rusticity to this wine with its dusty tannins, it is very nicely structured and complex.