Category Archives: Grand Cru Grapevine

It’s the Yeast We Can Do (Grand Cru Grapevine: July 2012)

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The tiny, single-celled fungi (I’ll spare you the bad joke) known as yeast are responsible for creating wine; without them, it would merely be grape juice. Simply put, the yeast consumes glucose and fructose in grapes, converting the sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The resulting product is much more complex and interesting than if the yeast had not intervened (thanks yeast!). These organisms exist throughout nature and are found on the skins of grapes (not a bad place to hang out if you’re looking for a free lunch), among other places.

Brought together in this manner, the initial discovery of fermented beverages was most likely an accident, but yeast are one of the oldest domesticated organisms (although admittedly not as cute as dogs) with humankind having used it for thousands of years. More recently, the commercial production of yeast has a 100 year old history with today’s winemakers having the luxury of ordering any number of cultured yeast strains from a catalog to achieve their desired effect. In fact, a chart on Winemaker magazine’s website suggests which yeast products are best for which styles of wine.

Yet, despite these modern conveniences, many winemakers are going native. In Canada’s Niagara-on-the-Lake region, Hillebrand Winery gifted us with yellow t-shirts emblazoned in green with the slogan “Take a Walk on the Wild Side” on the front and hailing their Wild Ferment Showcase Chardonnay 2009 and Showcase Sauvignon Blanc 2010 wines on the back. Stateside, the Hamptons-based Channing Daughters has produced its L’Enfant Sauvage Chardonnay, made entirely with native yeast, since 2001, while Janet Myers of Napa’s Franciscan Estate makes the similarly produced Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay.

Why the emphasis on these minute details? Does it make a difference or is all about the hype? Not only is Myers adamant that it matters, but she continues to make various batches of Chardonnay using both cultured and non-cultured yeast each year, which are then blind-tasted to determine which one is the best. And, every year, she finds that the wine produced with natural yeast wins out. For Shane C. Welch, President and Founder of Sixpoint Craft Ales, the use of natural vs. cultured yeast is the difference between a live performance and a studio album.

But, using wild yeast may not always be the best course of action. Myers admits that in some cases, especially with red wines, the result is less pronounced while further explaining that she finds it produces a different (unwanted) style with Sauvignon Blanc. Accordingly, the extra time and attention necessary to use wild yeast fermentation is limited to her Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay; all other Franciscan wines are made with cultured yeast. Myers is also quick to point out that she has the benefit of having a microbiologist on staff that can observe, smell and analyze what’s going on and make adjustments as needed. Tracy’s tales of producing L’Enfant Sauvage sound dicier, with some ferments taking almost a full year to complete.

Whether brought on by ambient populations of yeast or those of the cultured variety, the finished products of fermentation – wine, beer, bread – are made all the better for their actions. Accordingly, we have much for which to thank the yeast. If the yeast could talk, they might be heard to respond, “It’s the yeast we can do.”

Channing Daughters L’Enfant Sauvage, The Hamptons, NY, $35.00
Although we have not tasted the recent release of this wine (2009), we hosted a wine dinner featuring the L’Enfant Sauvage from vintages 2001 through 2008. While the older wines did display some oxidative characteristics, this added richness and complexity and confirmed the ageability of these wines. Citrus and apple were the most common aroma and flavor descriptors in my various notes, accompanied by some slight oak and spice, along with good acidity.

Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Dry 2010, Hungary, $15.00
While likely more famous for its sweet and luscious botrytized wines, Tokaji (pronounced to-keye) winemakers also make dry whites. This one is a blend of 85% Furmint, 10% Harslevelu and 5% Muscat, 20% of which has been aged in oak barrels for six months. Notes of apple and canned peaches greet the nose and persist on the medium-bodied palate.

Franciscan Estate Cuvée Sauvage 2009, Carneros, Napa Valley, CA, $40.00
The result of using wild yeast for this wine is worth the effort, with its complexity of aromas of yeast, apple, and wet stone. On the palate, it has vibrant acidity, full body, flavors of yeast, toothpick, apple, and lemon, culminating in long length. Crisp and complex.

Lucien Albrecht Blanc de Blancs Crémant d’Alsace Brut NV, Alsace, France, $20.00
Traditional method sparklers such as France’s Champagne and crémants owe their charm to not just one, but two fermentations, along with lengthy contact between the wine and the dead yeast (aka autolysis). As a blanc de blancs (white from whites), this wine is a blend of 80% Pinot Auxerrois, 10% Pinot Blanc and 10% Chardonnay and shows aromas of yeast and toast, joined by apple peel and ripe citrus on the fresh and elegant palate.

Masi Agricola Bonacosta Valpolicella Classico 2010, Veneto, Italy, $14.00
If you’re craving red wine despite the heat, this light-bodied, low tannin blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara from the foot of the hillside vineyards in the Classico zone just might do the trick. Bursting with vibrant, fresh cherries, it can be enjoyed with a slight chill and paired nicely with oven-roasted Portabella mushrooms and eggplant.

Captain & Tennille Redux – Muscat Love (Grand Cru Grapevine: June 2012)

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Back in the day, Captain & Tennille sang about Muskrat Love, but these days everyone seems to have fallen, not for rodents, but for the Muscat grape. In fact, Nielsen data presented in January 2012 indicated that sales of Moscato (which is a wine produced from the Muscat grape) has risen more than 70% from 2010 to 2011.

Among the oldest grape varieties in the world, Muscat shines in a plethora of places from the cool climate of Piedmont where it sparkles as Asti and Moscato d’Asti to the warmth of Southern France where it dazzles as Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise. And, equally notable, it thrives off the coast of mainland Greece in the Aegean Sea.

Here, the Mediterranean island of Samos nurtures the Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains grape with its steep, terraced vineyards (“pezoules”), deep soils, high altitude and abundant sunshine (3,300 hours per year). Home to the philosopher Pythagoras, of triangular fame (which is presumably better than singular fame), Samos has produced Muscat wine for centuries and is closely linked with its use for the liturgies surrounding the sacrament of Holy Eucharist service of the Roman Catholic Church.

In more modern history, the Union of Winemaking Cooperatives of Samos (UWC) was established in 1934 and was among the first cooperatives in Greece. With the participation of 26 wine growing villages, EOSS represents all of the island’s growers. In this regard, it is responsible for wine production (it maintains two full-scale wineries for its members), along with sales and marketing activities on behalf of brand Samos.

Given that 97% of the island’s 4,000 acres of vineyards are planted to Muscat, Samos wines are nearly synonymous with this indigenous variety. As per Greek wine laws, Samos wines are one of eight dessert wines classified under the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) designation and are produced in three different styles: Samos Doux, Samos Vin Doux Naturel and Samos Nectar.

Samos Doux is known as a vin de liqueur (aka mistela), produced by the addition of a neutral spirit almost immediately after pressing. With fermentation stopped so quickly, these wines have high levels of residual sugar (200 g/l). The Samos Vin Doux Naturel is akin to the fortified wines of Languedoc-Roussillon, whereby the neutral spirit is added after fermentation has begun. Conversely, Samos Nectar wines are not fortified at all; rather, their sweetness is a result of drying the grapes in the sun to concentrate the sugars before fermentation and then being aged in cask for three years. Although still quite sweet, these latter two wines are less sweet than the Samos Doux wines.

With rich, unctuous notes that range from honey, apricot and candied citrus to burnt orange and butterscotch, what’s not to love?

SAMOS NECTAR 

Despite the high levels of residual sugar in these wines, they do have  balanced acidity to keep them from becoming cloying on the palate.

However, with that said, these are decidedly dessert wines and pair best  with rich, flavorful cheeses (such as sharp cheddar or intense blue  cheese), or fruit- or custard-style desserts (i.e. strawberry  cheesecake, zabaglione).

A third option is to pair them in a cocktail as  their aromatic profile and sweet taste can balance bitter elements and  add weight to the palate. Dushan Zaric, co-owner and bartender of the  New York City-based Macao Trading Company, has crafted a number of  Samos-based cocktails, which work well, including the Nectar Fix. And, with the arrival of summer’s warmer weather, a chilled cocktail might be just the thing.

Nectar Fix

Glass:
Martini-Cocktail
Ingredients:
1¼ ounces Samos Nectar
1 ounce Rye
½ ounce Campari
1 fresh strawberry, quartered
fresh strawberry, halved, for garnish
Directions:
Pour all ingredients including the quartered strawberry into a mixing glass. Add large, cold ice. Stir for 40 revolutions. Strain into a Martini-Cocktail glass and garnish with half a strawberry.

Wine with the Vanderbilts (Grand Cru Grapevine: May 2012)

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America’s most visited winery isn’t in Napa. It isn’t even in California. Rather, with 600,000 guests annually, the imposing Biltmore Estate can be found in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Asheville, NC. With its driveway measured not in feet, but in miles (glad I don’t have to shovel it), the 1895 mansion was ahead of its time with electric lighting and an elevator and continues to be forward-thinking in its emphasis on being a self-sustaining estate. As part of these efforts, the on-premise dairy was replaced with a winery in 1985.

In 1997, a belated honeymoon included a visit to the Biltmore, along with a tour and tasting at the winery (in fact, our first winery visit as a couple). By design, our arrival coincided with the Flower Festival, which spanned the full weekend and entailed a myriad of events held at the immense estate. Our attendance at such events meant that our rental car became well acquainted with the lengthy driveway, but each time that the “house” came into view, it took our breath away. Coupled with the lush landscape and numerous gardens designed by Frederick Law Olmstead (of Central Park fame), we departed Asheville with fond memories.

Thus, it was with some delight that I accepted an invitation to meet with Biltmore Estate’s winemaker at a recent lunch in New York City. As you might imagine, growing grapes in North Carolina is not an easy task. The humid climate wreaks havoc in the vineyard, encouraging the growth of mildew and healthy grapes at harvest are not a given. Yet, despite these less than favorable conditions, Bernard DeLille has made wine at the Biltmore Estate for over 25 years.

The Burgundy-trained winemaker responded to an advertisement in 1986, intrigued by the opportunity to make wine in the U.S. Although he was working in Madiran and Jurançon (both in southwest France) at the time, DeLille welcomed the opportunity to produce wines without the rigid constraints of France’s appellation system. Accordingly, he packed up his wife, two children and their belongings and headed to North Carolina to begin his new position. Joining the staff under the direction of Philippe Jourdain, by 1991, he was promoted to the position of winemaker.

Given the challenges that North Carolinian viticulture presents, Biltmore Estate now sources grapes from California for many of its wines. In order to comply with U.S. regulations, wine production takes place in California as well. However, the estate vineyards have not been abandoned; DeLille will continue to make wines at home as well. In this regard, consumers can choose from two Blanc de blanc sparklers – one from North Carolina and the other from Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. Two still Chardonnays are also similarly produced (Sonoma County and North Carolina). Not surprisingly, their red wine production centers on California.

This new approach to winemaking has provided DeLille with many rewards. Yet, he admits that it can be complicated to keep up with the need to make wine in two different facilities, separated by an entire continent. But, on the whole, DeLille seems to have taken well to the balancing act required. I wish I could say the same of the restaurant’s servers. In clearing the flutes and white wine stemware, both DeLille and I were the recipients of a Chardonnay shower. Luckily, as a veteran journalist, I was wearing black and was consequently, soggy, but not visably stained.

All in all, it was a nice reintroduction to these wines and I appreciated the changes being made in expanding the Biltmore Estate’s range of wines. The new wines should be available in the New York market soon and I would encourage you to seek them out. Or, even better, go join the other 600,000 guests and taste the wines at the estate. It’s truly a great way to spend the weekend!

Biltmore Estate Château Reserve Blanc de Blancs Brut 2008, North Carolina, $30.00
Produced from 100% Chardonnay grapes, this sparkling wine is made in the Traditional Method and receives 12-16 months of lees aging, yielding yeasty, toasty, apple and floral notes on the nose and palate.

Biltmore Estate Blanc de Blancs Brut 2007, California, $25.00
While produced similarly to its North Carolina sister, this sparkler’s grapes are sourced from the Russian River Valley and it spends 18-24 months on the lees. A more pronounced nose offers up riper fruit with apple and pear aromas. On the palate, some yeasty character is evident, but this wine is less toasty and more fruit forward than the other.

Biltmore Reserve Chardonnay 2010, Sonoma County (CA), $20.00
As an unoaked Chardonnay, this wine is all about pure fruit, showing aromas and flavors of pear, apple and citus. Bone dry on the palate with vibrant acidity and a full body, it is an excellent dining partner.

Biltmore Reserve Chardonnay 2010, North Carolina, $15.00
In contrast, this wine is fermented in French and American barrels and approximately 50% of the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation (sharper malic acid is converted to the softer and creamier lactic acid). The nose is rich and buttery with apple notes, while the palate offers apple and a hint of oak.

Biltmore Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Alexander Valley (CA), $20.00
A varietally-correct, California Cab, this wine shows lots of black fruit and slight herbal notes, with moderate tannins, balanced acidity and good length.

Searching High and Low for Bordeaux (Grand Cru Grapevine: April 2012)

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At a recent Wine Media Guild lunch featuring Château d’Issan and Château Rauzan-Segla, it was stated that, “as Bordeaux goes, so does the whole industry,” with the further comment that, it was a “lynchpin by which other regions measure themselves.” And, with the iconic nature of these two Margaux producers, it is not surprising that the wines showed quite well that afternoon. Several months earlier, four Pauillac châteaux – Château Lynch Bages, Château Pontet-Canet, Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Clerc-Milon – gave equal pleasure to the assembled journalists.

However, with the price of the classified growths reaching astronomical figures, many wine drinkers feel priced out of the Bordeaux market. Yes, it’s true, wines from pedigreed châteaux have become the object of collectors who may never drink a drop rather than the cherished claret they once were. Such wines are the result of high scores and top reputations, which have made them more prized for their investment value than for their hedonistic value. But, thankfully, the majority of Bordeaux is still very much for drinking.

As an extremely large French wine region, representing 26% of all AOC (quality) wine produced in the country, Bordeaux is home to 63 appellations. Yet, Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC together comprise 55% of the total production. And, despite the volume this entails, Bordeaux has thousands of small, family-run estates such as Château Penin run by Patrick Carteyon, the fifth generation of his family to work in wine. Similarly, at Château de Bonhoste, winemaking is the domain of Yannick Fournier, while his sister, Sylvaine, and mother, Colette, tend to the vineyard.

Although these two appellations stem from grapes grown on both sides of the Garonne River, on its own, the Right Bank has been the scene of recent change. A new appellation – Côtes de Bordeaux – was established in 2009, providing these wines with more market recognition. For example, wines previously labeled as Blaye or Côtes de Francs were not instantly recognizable. Now, the name Bordeaux is featured prominently on their labels.

While not as prestigious as the wines from the various classifications, wines from these three appellations offer great value, with most under $20.00 and many in the $10.00-13.00 range. And, at these prices, you can take a chance on a bottle or two to try before splashing out on a whole case.

Château La Rivalerie, Côtes de Bordeaux Blanc 2009, Bordeaux, France, $N/A
(60% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sauvignon Gris and 20% Semillon)
This wine offers aromas of oak, bruised apple, citrus and ginger on the nose. With bright acidity and medium body, the flavors echo the nose and linger throughout the long finish.

Château La Goutere, Bordeaux Rouge 2009, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
(77% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc)
Hailing from vineyards located near Saint Emilion, this wine showed aromas of blackcherry, vanilla and a hint of oak on the nose. Its palate also offered notes of earth and herbs along with medium tannins.

Château Penin, Grande Selection Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2008, Bordeaux, France, $13.00
(100% Merlot)
Blackberry, plum and some herbal character were present on the nose. Showing a supple texture, the wine had good acidity, with flavors of blackberry, plum, dried herbs and slight oak notes.

Château Peynaud, Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2009, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
(50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc)
Aromas of spice, oak, vanilla and black cherry greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is very fruity, with similar notes.

Château Saincrit, Vieilles Vignes Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2008, Bordeaux, France, $18.00
(70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvigon and Cabernet Franc)
This château is owned by Florence Prudhomme who took over the property in 2003. Showing aromas of plum, raisin and spice on the nose, the palate gives way to blackcherry and oak.

Et tu, Brunello? (Grand Cru Grapevine: March 2012)

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The Ides of March is upon us, so all Caesars are cautioned to beware. And, while you may not be able to trust Brutus, you can feel confident about the most recent releases from Brunello di Montalcino, with three stellar vintages all now available in the market: 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Reserva, 2007 Brunello di Montalcino and 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.

Although Brunello di Montalcino doesn’t quite date as far back as Julius Caesar’s time, the origin of this Tuscan wine traces its heritage to a mention in an historical document dated 715. Production centers near the hilltop (monte) town of Montalcino, which takes its name from the oak trees (leccio) found growing there. The town’s vertical advantage placed it in a strategic position since its inhabitants could clearly see who was traveling on the main road between Florence and Rome during the Middle Ages. Consequently, the city maintained its independence as a municipality for centuries before the Medici’s took possession in 1559.

The history of Brunello itself stems from 1869 when Clemente Santi defined the wine. Santi won an award for his 100% Sangiovese wine that, aged for a long period of time, was unusual for his integration of advanced racking and barrel-ageing techniques that had not been used previously. Several decades later, his grandson Ferruccio Biondi Santi built upon Clemente’s initial work, establishing strict production standards and, unlike his peers, focusing exclusively on a wine meant to be aged. Biondi Santi’s labors also isolated a particular clone of Sangiovese, known locally as Brunello, and in 1932, an Interministerial Commission described him as the inventor of Brunello.

Steeped in Medieval history, Montalcino offers visitors the chance to step back in time – thick stone walls, an imposing fortress and cobblestone streets transport you from 2012 to 1512. Yet, despite the ancient ambience, Montalcino embraces its decidedly commercial culture. Walking down the town’s narrow streets, one encounters wine shop, after wine shop, after wine shop, almost to the exclusion of all else. As a colleague remarked during a recent visit, at no time did we come across a hardware store or a place to buy non-touristic garments. Got wine? No problem. Got underwear? That’s another story.

Initially established as a DOC in 1966, Brunello was among the first denominations to be promoted to DOCG status, Italy’s highest quality wine level, in 1980. By then, it had achieved worldwide recognition as an ageworthy wine. Today, the denomination is home to 250 producers and, while the delimited area itself comprises 60,000 acres, only about 5,200 acres are planted to Brunello vineyards. Another 1,275 acres is given over to Brunello’s baby brother – Rosso di Montalcino. Whereas Brunello must be aged for a total of 5 years (or 6 years for Riserva) with at least two years in oak, the Rosso wines may be released immediately.

The square-shaped region is home to four rivers and valleys and is situated midway between the center of Italy and the sea. Moreover, the area is slightly further south than Chianti Classico and Montepulciano. Accordingly, the Mediterranean climate provides a warmer and drier climate than these other two regions, impacting the ripeness and tannin development of the grapes. With richer cherry fruit and less vegetal notes than Chianti Classico (and less earthy ones than Vino Nobile di Montepulciano), these tannic wines need time to truly develop as evidenced by the beauty found in both the 1995 Col d’Orcia and 1994 Villa Poggio Salvi described below. Hailed as a five-star vintage, the 2007s will have similar staying power and should be laid down in the cellar and perhaps forgotten about until the Ides of March circa 2024.

Camigliano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $40.00
With aromas of cherry, slight earth and hint of oak, this dry wine is light and elegant with bright acidity, medium tannins and cherry dominating the palate. 

Capanna 2007, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $41.00
Aged for four years, this wine is classic with rich and concentrated aromas of cherry, anise and wood, culminating in long length. 

Fanti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $45.00
A combination of black cherry and sour cherry, the aromas are repeated on the palate, with firm tannins and nice length.

Il Poggione 2007, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $69.00
This wine is beautifully rich with cherries and balsam notes on both the nose and palate. The concentrated flavors linger throughout the wine’s long length.

Col d’Orcia Riserva Poggio Al Vento 1995, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $85.00
This wine saw four years in oak and two years in bottle before being released. Now, 17 years after its initial production, it is showing development on both the nose and palate and offered dried fruit, herbs and cherries.

Villa Poggio Salvi 1994 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $NA
Almost Barolo-like in its black fruit character, this wine also offers dried herbs and fig notes. However, its body was lighter than the Col d’Orcia 1995.

Tavel, the Original Rosé (Grand Cru Grapevine: February 2012)

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If you only drink rosé in the summer – challenge that! Sure, rosé wines are perfect summer sipping wines with their lighter body, refreshing acidity and affinity for being served at cooler temperatures. However, meatier rosés can make a wonderful addition to the dinner table year-round and will provide a rosy hue for your Valentine. And, France’s Tavel is a perfect example.

Produced from vines originally brought to the Rhône Valley by the Romans, Tavel was first made for the popes at Avignon as early as the 1300s. With its lighter body, low tannins and fruit driven character, the Popes enjoyed these wines, which became famous as the most red of all pink wines. After finding favor with the clergy, Tavel continued its long history, receiving official recognition as a controlled appellation in 1936, becoming the first AOC rosé wine in France.

With the iron-rich, clay and sandstone soils on the Rhône’s Left Bank more suitable for red wines, Tavel vines are grown on the Rhône’s Right Bank. Known for the wind-blown silts and sand that were deposited by the mistral after the ice age, these vineyards offer ideal conditions for fruit-forward, less-structured wines. Here, the soils are composed primarily of limestone, which formed millions of years ago when the area was initially under the sea. The land was eventually pushed to the surface where its mineral content provides acidity, minerality and aroma to today’s wines. Referred to as garrigue, which is also the name for the scrub vegetation that grows on it, these scents include lavender, thyme, rosemary.

Theoretically, Tavel may be made from a blend of up to 15 different grapes, most of which are red. Yet, in practice, the wines are limited to nine varieties and no grape can constitute more than 60% of the blend. These authorized grapes span from Roman (Bourboulenc) and Spanish (Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre) origin to French (Syrah, Cinsault, Calitor, Clairette, Picpoul) varieties, all of which thrive in the sun-drenched climate.

Crafted using the saignée method, the wines undergo an average of 12-48 hours during which the fresh grape juice is in contact with the red skins before being bled off.  However, the soak may last up to 72 hours to pull significant tannins and color from the grape skins. Regardless of the time period, the wines are fermented at cool temperatures to preserve the intense aromatics.

The range of colors is determined by the combination of grape varieties, ripeness of the vintage (pH), temperature of the grapes at harvest, length of maceration and oxygen exposure. Moreover, the quickly oxidizing Grenache imbues the wines with more orange hues while high acid grapes add pinker tones. Finally, while Tavel has historically been known for its salmon hue, with the advent of modern technology, the wines are now more pink. And with the legal revisions made in 1997 that mandate the use of clear bottles, you’ll be able to admire the wine’s beautiful shade well before you pour it in your glass.

TASTING NOTES

Château d’Aqueria 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $18.00
(52% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 11% Mourvèdre, 9% Clairette, 9% Cinsault, 6% Bourboulenc, 2% Picpoul)
This deep pink wine offers up aromas of cherries and berries. Its medium acidity and medium tannins provide nice structure for the darker red fruits, which pervade the palate.

Domaine de la Mordorée La Dame Rousse 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $15.00
(56% Grenache, 20% Cinsault, 10% Clairette, 4% Syrah, 3% each – Mourvèdre, Bourboulenc and Grenache Blanc)
Medium pink in hue, this wine has aromas of berries, with some slight citrus pith and minerality, all of which persist on the palate. Vibrant acidity and light tannins result in a refreshing wine.

Domaine Maby la Forcadière 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $20.00
(70% Grenache, 10% Cinsault, 10% Grenache Blanc, 10% Other)
Decidedly salmon in color, this wine shows floral and berry notes. The palate has medium acidity, low tannins and is dominated by fresh berry fruit flavors.

Prieuré de Montézargues 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $19.00
(55% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 13% Clairette, 2% Other)
Pale pink, with salmon highlights, berries and herbs greet the nose on this wine. Flavors of citrus and berries linger on the lively palate.

Château de Trinquevedel 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $17.00
(60% Grenache, 15% Clairette, 10% Cinsault, 10% Syrah, 5% Bourboulenc)
With its medium pink appearance, this wine offers a range of floral, berry and herbal notes. Red berries and cherries are joined by a chalky/mineral character on the palate.

Truth or Dare? (Grand Cru Grapevine: January 2012)

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If you make only one wine, it can be a bit risky. If you only make Riesling in New Zealand, it’s downright daring! In fact, that is precisely what Hennie Bosman and his wife, Celia, are doing. The proprietors of True & Daring admit that the venture is high risk; at a recent event Hennie joked that they should have called it Truly Mad. But, despite the inherent madness, the result is a wine that is true to their palate.

Born in South Africa, the affable Hennie planned to make wine in retirement, but their relocation to New Zealand prompted them to accelerate their plans. Starting out in the usual vein, they made several different varietally-labeled wines, including Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. However, as Hennie explained, they “decided to be daring; to stay true to the wine [they] love.” Accordingly, they turned their attention exclusively to Riesling.

Not wanting to imitate a particular style or region, Hennie believes that the vineyard speaks through Riesling more than other grapes. In this regard, the grapes are carefully sourced from vineyards in Nelson, on the northern tip of New Zealand’s South Island. He then works in small batch fermentations and leaves the wine on the lees for a longer period of time (by New Zealand standards). Consequently, the wine is bottled in December or January as opposed to September. Finally, the couple allows the wines to age before releasing them, further adding to their audacious behavior. Production is deliberately kept tiny with only 2,200 cases produced.

So what does all this mean in the end? An event held at Porterhouse brought together several top New York sommeliers, including Roger Dagorn, MS, all of whom were asked to taste nine wines blindly. While the tasters knew that the wines were all Riesling and that the True & Daring was among them, they didn’t know what else was in the line-up. Despite the tasters’ honed skills, upon tasting the True & Daring Riesling they couldn’t place the wine as being either distinctly Old World or New World. Moreover, the wine held its own in the company of such wines as Trimbach’s Cuvee Frederic Emile 2004 from Alsace, France, the Muller-Catoir 2009 from Pfalz, Germany and Eroica 2009 from the Columbia Valley, WA joint venture between Chateau Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen.

First released with the 2004 vintage, True & Daring’s current release is the 2007 vintage. Tasted in October, this wine was showing some development with honey, citrus and a hint of petrol on the nose. The dry palate was dominated by citrus and petrol with high acidity, medium body and long length.

Unfortunately, all of the Bosmans’ audacity doesn’t come cheap; the wine retails at $35.00/bottle, but it is well-worth the splurge.

Make Mine Spumante (Grand Cru Grapevine: December 2011)

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While France and Champagne are frequently the standard bearers for sparkling wines, Italy is not to be outdone in this regard. In fact, Italian sparklers run the gamut from light and lively quaffers to complex, yeast-aged wines and everything in between. Although many Italian appellations include the provision, “May be spumante (sparkling),” in their regulations, the best examples are usually those that come from the designated fizz regions such as Trento, Franciacorta, Moscato d’Asti, Asti, Prosecco and Brachetto d’Acquis. With this broad selection of sparkling wines, one is sure to find the perfect Italian sparkler with which to toast the holiday season and beyond.

Rivaling the yeasty, toasty character of Champagne, Italy’s Trento and Franciacorta appellations offer similar aromas and flavors in these Traditional Method wines. During the dawn of the 20th century, Giulio Ferrari was intrigued with the quality of France’s sparkling wines and went to study in Montpelier to learn how to make them. He returned to his hometown in Trentino and set about creating his wine. In 1952, he sold the company to the Lunelli family which has continued to maintain the high standards set by Ferrari. Produced identically to Champagne, these wines rely almost exclusively on Chardonnay, with the occasional use of Pinot Noir. Today, other producers in the area also ascribe to these standards, which were codified in 1993 with the creation of the Metodo Classico Trento DOC, the first Italian appellation for a sparkling wine. These wines must undergo a secondary fermentation in the bottle, with a minimum of 15 months aging on the lees.

Italy’s Lombardy region is home to Franciacorta, which is also produced using the same, time-consuming Traditional Method of sparkling wine production as that used in Champagne. However, beyond its reliance on Champagne’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, Franciacorta also includes Pinot Gris and Pinot Bianco in its recipe, if the producer so desires. In 1995, Franciacorta was established as a DOCG (Italy’s highest appellation level), with regulations requiring a minimum of two years aging before release, of which 18 months must include contact with the lees. Franciacorta’s vintage wines are those which have been aged for 37 months be in contact with the yeast, while rosés must contain at least 15% Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir). The specially labeled Franciacorta Satèn must be produced solely from white grapes, specifically Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, and at a reduced pressure of 4.5 bars instead of 6.

For a more aromatic and less expensive option, look to Prosecco to fill your glass. In general, Proseccos are vibrant and fruity, exhibiting the aromatic characteristics of the Glera grape. Produced via the Italian (aka Charmat) method of sparkling wine production, the floral and fruit aromas and flavors are retained, rather than masked through the use of stainless steel and minimal contact with yeast/lees (unlike the Traditional method). Meant to be drunk young, the wines are increasingly being vintage-dated (most were previously non-vintaged) to provide the consumer with more information. In 2009, the appellation was promoted to DOCG status, with production limited to the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene.

Toward the end of the meal, turn to Piedmont for sweet-style sparklers. Here, the Moscato (Muscat) grape is known for producing aromatic wines that are available in lightly sparkling (frizzante) and fully sparkling (spumante) versions. The sweet and grapey Moscato d’Asti DOCG and Asti DOCG both have low alcohol, light body and fragrant floral notes, making them the perfect accompaniment to fruit-based desserts. Although both are produced from the same grape variety and in the same region, the former wine has a higher sugar content, lower alcohol level and fewer atmospheres of pressure, which accounts for the use of a regular wine bottle. In comparison, the Asti is fully sparkling at an average 7% abv, with a gentle froth on the palate. For chocolate desserts, try Brachetto d’Acquis. Made with the red Brachetto grape, this Piemontese sparkling wine offers up raspberry and strawberry aromas and flavors, coupled with soft sweetness on the palate.

Ca’ del Bosco, Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige NV, Lombardy, Italy, $50.00
Considered to be one of the top producers in Franciacorta, Ca’ del Bosco was established in 1968 by Maurizio Zanella. A blend of 75% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Nero and 10% Pinot Bianco, this full-bodied wine has been bottle aged for a minimum of 28 months with rich, toasty notes on the nose and palate. A slight nuttiness lingers in the long finish.

Ferrari, Giulio Ferrari Riserva 2001 Trentino, Italy, $100.00
Produced from a single vineyard of 15 year old vines, this special cuvée is named for founder Giulio Ferrari with wines aged for a minimum of 10 years on the lees. These beautifully rich wines are capable of great aging as evidenced by the complexity revealed in a tasting of the 1986, 1995, 1997, 2000 and 2001 vintages. The company also makes its vintage-dated Perlé in a blanc de blancs (100% Chardonnay) and a rosé (80% Pinot Nero and 20% Chardonnay), in addition to their non-vintage brut ($25.00) and rosé ($37.00) wines.

Peri, Talento Brut Millesimato Metodo Classico 2007, Lombardy, Italy, $30.00
Although this 100% Chardonnay sparkler is produced near the Franciacorta appellation, it is done so under the broader geographical appellation of Montenetto di Brescia. Produced using the Traditional Method, the wine showed some yeasty notes along with citrus and apple on the palate.

Bel Canto di Bellussi, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Extra Dry, Veneto, Italy, $13.00
Purchased by the Martellozzo family in 1993, Belllusi is presently run by Enrico, the third generation in his family to work in the wine business. With a fine perlage, this wine displays red apple and floral notes on both the nose and palate. Off-dry and light, it is quite elegant.

Ricossa, Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy, $15.00
The Ricossa Antica Casa winery dates to the 1800s when it was founded by Lorenzo Ricossa. This wine has pronounced aromas of floral, peach and honey on the nose. Its sweet palate offers fresh peaches, grapes and honey before finishing cleanly.

I’m Down with DAC (Grand Cru Grapevine: November 2011)

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At 26, Roman Pfaffl, Jr. is a not only a handsome, young man and a winning athlete (his all-winemaker soccer team recently won in Munich), but, most importantly, he is quite charming. OK, even more importantly than that, he makes great wine. The Austrian winemaker is now at the helm of his family’s winery, having been passed the reigns (or perhaps more correctly, the refractometer) at a ceremony in August of this year. Although Roman has started to implement some changes (i.e. new pruning techniques and experimentation with different types of oak), he does admit that his parents are “still the bosses.” Joined by his sister Heidemarie, who handles marketing, the business is truly a family affair.

Established in 1978, Pfaffl Winery was created when Roman (Sr.) and wife Adelheid converted the family farm in Weinviertel (which translates as “wine quarter”), near Austria’s capital of Vienna, from potatoes to grape vines. Today, the Pfaffls have 80 hectares in total under vine, 65% of which is planted to white grapes.

Among the Pfaffl’s holdings are several highly prized parcels – Haidviertel (in the town of Stetten) and Hundsleiten (situated on a mountain range near Vienna), both of which prominently feature Grüner Veltliner, where the loess soils impart great minerality to the wines. The equally vaunted Altenberg vineyard highlights the red, St. Laurent grape. The grapes from Haidviertel and Hundsleiten are generally sourced for the Pfaffl’s best wines, which qualify for DAC status.

While Austria’s wines have historically followed a similar approach to that of Germany – using must weight (sugar content) as a designation of quality – the same concern with broad-brushing all Austrian wines as being sweet emerged. Accordingly, Austria sought to further define quality for its dry wines, instituting the terms Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd to indicate increasing levels of ripeness (still equated with quality) for Wachau wines that were dry on the palate. However, many in the industry felt that a more appellation-based system was needed. Enter the DAC.

Austria’s DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) system was launched in 2001, with Weinviertel defined as the first in 2003 (taking effect with the 2002 vintage). To qualify for the DAC designation, the wines must be produced from specified grape varieties, which in the case of Weinviertel is 100% Grüner Veltliner. The Leithaberg DAC, which came on line with the 2008 vintage, is specified for both red (minimum of 85% Blaufränkisch, blended with up to 15% St. Laurent, Zweigelt or Pinot Noir) and white (single variety or blends of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Neuburger and/or Grüner Veltliner). Wines that are produced within these DAC areas, but that don’t meet the DAC requirements must be labeled as Qualitätswein. Five other DACs presently exist, with a few more additions expected down the road.

In speaking about the effect of the DACs, Roman, Jr. indicated that the system has not only improved wine quality, but also has encouraged more young winemakers to get involved in the industry.

In addition to the more general Klassik (classic) level, the Weinviertel DAC also allows for a Reserve level, as of the 2009 vintage, which represents the top wines of the region. While the requirements for Reserve include an increased degree of alcohol, more emphasis is placed on the taste profile expected for these wines. Specifically, Reserve wines should be fuller bodied, with “subtle botrytis notes” and oak aging is permitted (it sn’t for Klassik). A further qualification for all DAC levels is that a six-person tasting panel must unanimously agree that the wine meets the expected caliber for the respective level; without their approval, wines cannot be labeled as DAC.

Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s signature white variety known for citrus, white pepper and mineral characteristics on both the nose and palate. Young examples provide fresh fruit characteristics and vibrant acidity. However, wines produced from older vines and better vineyards are capable of aging for 3-10 years. In this regard, a vertical tasting of wines from the steep, sandstone Hundsleiten vineyard showed off the development of the variety, while also highlighting vintage differences.

Wines produced from Hundsleiten’s 30-year-old vines are fermented in large casks and then aged for 5-6 months in a combination of large, wooden barrels (80%) and stainless steel tanks (20%).

Pfaffl Grüner Veltliner 2010, Hundsleiten Weinviertel DAC Reserve, Weinviertel, Austria, $31.00
Produced from the challenging 2010 vintage, Roman described this wine as being Burgundian in style, which was reinforced by the wine’s aromas and flavors of minerality, wet earth, citrus and restrained, but still noticeable, use of wood. The full-bodied palate was creamy, with long length.

Pfaffl Grüner Veltliner 2006, Hundsleiten Weinviertel DAC Reserve, Weinviertel, Austria, $31.00
While 2006 was a hot year, spring had arrived later than usual, preventing problems with overripe fruit as was seen in 2003. A less intense nose than the 2010, but with more pronounced notes of pepper, orange, wood and yeast.

Pfaffl Grüner Veltliner 2004, Hundsleiten Weinviertel DAC Reserve, Weinviertel, Austria, $31.00
Lots of rain plagued June, which was followed by a cool August, but a dry September and October saved the vintage. This wine showed some development with damp earth, wood and mineral notes, and just a hint of citrus aromas, which were repeated on the dry palate with the addition of a bit of pepper.

Pfaffl Grüner Veltliner 2000, Hundsleiten Weinviertel DAC Reserve, Weinviertel, Austria, $31.00
Near perfect conditions resulted in a great vintage and ideal ripeness. A spicy nose with concentrated orange fruit gave way to rich, ripe orange and tropical fruit on the creamy palate, joined by flavors of spice and wood, throughout the wine’s long length.

Although St. Laurent doesn’t qualify for DAC status, Pfaffl’s wines from this variety were also quite noteworthy.

Pfaffl St. Laurent 2009, Altenberg Estate Qualitätswein, Weinviertel, Austria, $44.00
From a good vintage, this younger wine showed earthy aromas, with a fuller body and more fruit than the 2004, with flavors of cherry, herbs, mint and oak.

Pfaffl St. Laurent 2004, Altenberg Estate Qualitätswein, Weinviertel, Austria, $44.00
This wine offered aromas of spice, earth and concentrated notes of cherry and mulberry. Its dry palate gave way to plum and spice flavors and, in sum, was gorgeous and complex with long length.

 

Romania’s Renaissance (Grand Cru Grapevine: October 2011)

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Despite its 4,000 year history of viticulture, like many formerly-Communist countries, Romania found itself at the end of the Cold War with its vineyards in shambles. After years of state ownership, where quantity reined over quality, the wine had suffered greatly. However, during the 1990s, the country’s shift toward privatization has repatriated much of the land, with owners investing significantly in their vineyards and modern winemaking.

And, with the passage of two decades, things have changed for the better. Ranking 6th largest in world wine production, Romanian wines are worthy of a second look. As a victim of the original phylloxera epidemic, many of Romania’s vineyards were replanted to French varieties at that time. Today, a dual focus on both indigenous and international grapes has led to interesting combinations and as well as more commercially-viable wines. For example, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, priced at $7.00/bottle will play well with consumers. Meanwhile, the Feteascas – Alba (white); Regala (royal) and Neagra (black) – all take their name from the word maiden and are uniquely Romanian. The white maiden (Feteasca Alba) is the most popular Romanian grape.

The physical size and geographical diversity of Romania result in creating several different wine regions within the country, each of which has its own microclimate. However, in general, Romania is home to a continental climate, which is moderated by the Black Sea, Danube River and Carpathian Mountains. Dealu Mare, nestled at the foot of the mountains, features red wines, while Tarnave’s emphasis is on white due to its altitude and consequent cooler climate. Similarly, Cotnari, located further north, also focuses on whites. Murfatlar, on the Black Sea, produces both red and white varieties.

With Romania’s entry into the EU in 2007, marketing dollars have begun to flow into the country, permitting it to promote its wines overseas. Accordingly, a trade tasting was held in New York City in April 2011. Wines included the usual suspects – varietally labeled Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir were all on hand to be tasted. However, more intriguing were those produced either solely from indigenous varieties or from unusual blends of both the French and Romanian varieties.

TASTING NOTES

Cramele Recaş Feteasca Regala 2010, Recaş, Romania
Producer Cramele Recas is relatively large with 1,750 acres under vine. With its aromatics of floral and tropical fruit, this wine was reminiscent of Torrontés. The dry palate has high acidity, is medium-full bodied and showed notes of tropical fruit, melon and spice.

Cramele Recaş Solo Quinta 2010, Recaş, Romania
This wine joins Feteasca Regala (30%) with 30% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Grigio and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, the latter of which is vinified as a white wine without any skin contact. The pronounced nose showed notes of citrus, apple, floral and herbs that continued on the dry, full-bodied palate.

Halewood, Pinot Noir 2009, Dealu Mare, Romania
Forty percent of the wine was aged in French oak. The nose offered floral, cherry and berry aromas while the palate provided medium+ acidity, medium tannins and rich cherry/berry flavors mingled with herbal notes.

Senator, Glia Babeasca Neagra 2008, Insuratei, Romania
The second most planted grape variety in Romania, Babeasca Neagra translates as “grandmother’s grape.” Floral and spicy on the nose, this wine’s palate has medium+ acidity and low tannins along with sour black cherry and spice flavors.

Murfatlar, Trei Hectare Feteasca Neagra 2006, Murfatlar, Romania
Murfatlar (a winery named for the region in which it is located) is the largest Romanian producer at 8,200 planted acres. The Feteasca Neagra was showing some development as well as complexity and balance. Dried herbs, dried cherries, earth and cocoa persisted throughout the long length.