Despite its 4,000 year history of viticulture, like many formerly-Communist countries, Romania found itself at the end of the Cold War with its vineyards in shambles. After years of state ownership, where quantity reined over quality, the wine had suffered greatly. However, during the 1990s, the country’s shift toward privatization has repatriated much of the land, with owners investing significantly in their vineyards and modern winemaking.
And, with the passage of two decades, things have changed for the better. Ranking 6th largest in world wine production, Romanian wines are worthy of a second look. As a victim of the original phylloxera epidemic, many of Romania’s vineyards were replanted to French varieties at that time. Today, a dual focus on both indigenous and international grapes has led to interesting combinations and as well as more commercially-viable wines. For example, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, priced at $7.00/bottle will play well with consumers. Meanwhile, the Feteascas – Alba (white); Regala (royal) and Neagra (black) – all take their name from the word maiden and are uniquely Romanian. The white maiden (Feteasca Alba) is the most popular Romanian grape.
The physical size and geographical diversity of Romania result in creating several different wine regions within the country, each of which has its own microclimate. However, in general, Romania is home to a continental climate, which is moderated by the Black Sea, Danube River and Carpathian Mountains. Dealu Mare, nestled at the foot of the mountains, features red wines, while Tarnave’s emphasis is on white due to its altitude and consequent cooler climate. Similarly, Cotnari, located further north, also focuses on whites. Murfatlar, on the Black Sea, produces both red and white varieties.
With Romania’s entry into the EU in 2007, marketing dollars have begun to flow into the country, permitting it to promote its wines overseas. Accordingly, a trade tasting was held in New York City in April 2011. Wines included the usual suspects – varietally labeled Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir were all on hand to be tasted. However, more intriguing were those produced either solely from indigenous varieties or from unusual blends of both the French and Romanian varieties.
TASTING NOTES
Cramele Recaş Feteasca Regala 2010, Recaş, Romania
Producer Cramele Recas is relatively large with 1,750 acres under vine. With its aromatics of floral and tropical fruit, this wine was reminiscent of Torrontés. The dry palate has high acidity, is medium-full bodied and showed notes of tropical fruit, melon and spice.
Cramele Recaş Solo Quinta 2010, Recaş, Romania
This wine joins Feteasca Regala (30%) with 30% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Grigio and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, the latter of which is vinified as a white wine without any skin contact. The pronounced nose showed notes of citrus, apple, floral and herbs that continued on the dry, full-bodied palate.
Halewood, Pinot Noir 2009, Dealu Mare, Romania
Forty percent of the wine was aged in French oak. The nose offered floral, cherry and berry aromas while the palate provided medium+ acidity, medium tannins and rich cherry/berry flavors mingled with herbal notes.
Senator, Glia Babeasca Neagra 2008, Insuratei, Romania
The second most planted grape variety in Romania, Babeasca Neagra translates as “grandmother’s grape.” Floral and spicy on the nose, this wine’s palate has medium+ acidity and low tannins along with sour black cherry and spice flavors.
Murfatlar, Trei Hectare Feteasca Neagra 2006, Murfatlar, Romania
Murfatlar (a winery named for the region in which it is located) is the largest Romanian producer at 8,200 planted acres. The Feteasca Neagra was showing some development as well as complexity and balance. Dried herbs, dried cherries, earth and cocoa persisted throughout the long length.