Author Archives: Tracy

Romania’s Renaissance (Grand Cru Grapevine: October 2011)

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Despite its 4,000 year history of viticulture, like many formerly-Communist countries, Romania found itself at the end of the Cold War with its vineyards in shambles. After years of state ownership, where quantity reined over quality, the wine had suffered greatly. However, during the 1990s, the country’s shift toward privatization has repatriated much of the land, with owners investing significantly in their vineyards and modern winemaking.

And, with the passage of two decades, things have changed for the better. Ranking 6th largest in world wine production, Romanian wines are worthy of a second look. As a victim of the original phylloxera epidemic, many of Romania’s vineyards were replanted to French varieties at that time. Today, a dual focus on both indigenous and international grapes has led to interesting combinations and as well as more commercially-viable wines. For example, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, priced at $7.00/bottle will play well with consumers. Meanwhile, the Feteascas – Alba (white); Regala (royal) and Neagra (black) – all take their name from the word maiden and are uniquely Romanian. The white maiden (Feteasca Alba) is the most popular Romanian grape.

The physical size and geographical diversity of Romania result in creating several different wine regions within the country, each of which has its own microclimate. However, in general, Romania is home to a continental climate, which is moderated by the Black Sea, Danube River and Carpathian Mountains. Dealu Mare, nestled at the foot of the mountains, features red wines, while Tarnave’s emphasis is on white due to its altitude and consequent cooler climate. Similarly, Cotnari, located further north, also focuses on whites. Murfatlar, on the Black Sea, produces both red and white varieties.

With Romania’s entry into the EU in 2007, marketing dollars have begun to flow into the country, permitting it to promote its wines overseas. Accordingly, a trade tasting was held in New York City in April 2011. Wines included the usual suspects – varietally labeled Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir were all on hand to be tasted. However, more intriguing were those produced either solely from indigenous varieties or from unusual blends of both the French and Romanian varieties.

TASTING NOTES

Cramele Recaş Feteasca Regala 2010, Recaş, Romania
Producer Cramele Recas is relatively large with 1,750 acres under vine. With its aromatics of floral and tropical fruit, this wine was reminiscent of Torrontés. The dry palate has high acidity, is medium-full bodied and showed notes of tropical fruit, melon and spice.

Cramele Recaş Solo Quinta 2010, Recaş, Romania
This wine joins Feteasca Regala (30%) with 30% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Grigio and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, the latter of which is vinified as a white wine without any skin contact. The pronounced nose showed notes of citrus, apple, floral and herbs that continued on the dry, full-bodied palate.

Halewood, Pinot Noir 2009, Dealu Mare, Romania
Forty percent of the wine was aged in French oak. The nose offered floral, cherry and berry aromas while the palate provided medium+ acidity, medium tannins and rich cherry/berry flavors mingled with herbal notes.

Senator, Glia Babeasca Neagra 2008, Insuratei, Romania
The second most planted grape variety in Romania, Babeasca Neagra translates as “grandmother’s grape.” Floral and spicy on the nose, this wine’s palate has medium+ acidity and low tannins along with sour black cherry and spice flavors.

Murfatlar, Trei Hectare Feteasca Neagra 2006, Murfatlar, Romania
Murfatlar (a winery named for the region in which it is located) is the largest Romanian producer at 8,200 planted acres. The Feteasca Neagra was showing some development as well as complexity and balance. Dried herbs, dried cherries, earth and cocoa persisted throughout the long length.

Lovable, but Lesser-known Lombardy and its Lago di Garda Wines

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When asked to name an Italian wine region, most people will probably answer Tuscany or Piedmont, while Lombardy is less likely to come to mind. Yet, this northwestern region boasts many high quality wines such as Franciacorta and Valtellina. Known much more for its lake district and its capital city of Milan, Lombardy has attracted U.S. visitors for decades, but its wines generally remain unknown even though its viticultural history dates back to the 1300s.

The sizeable Lago di Garda (Lake Garda) not only adds to the beauty of the area, but also serves as an important climatic influence. Formed by glacial activity, the lake is at the center of concentric hills, which flow westward and is responsible for the area’s Mediterranean climate despite its northerly locale (it shares a border with Switzerland). In addition to grapes, capers, lemon trees and olive groves flourish, marking the northernmost point for these plant species.

Among the red grapes, many indigenous varieties are planted here. Known for its spicy aromatic character, Gropello is the most planted variety with its plantings limited to the slopes of Valtènesi. The local rosé is called Chiaretto and shares the same recipe as the red wine Rosso Garda Classico: Gropello (30% minimum), Marzemino (5% minimum), Barbera (5% minimum) and Sangiovese (5% minimum). The difference between the two wines is in the winemaking. The Chiaretto, produced since the 15th century, has its must separated from the grape skins after a single night’s maceration,. The Classico moniker in Rosso Garda Classico denotes the wine’s origin from the traditional/original viticultural area.

The region’s white grapes are less obscure – Riesling, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay – with the exception of Tocai, which is also known as San Martino. Denominations for white wines include Lugana DOC, San Martino DOC and Benaco Bresciano Bianco IGT. The Chardonnay is also used to make sparkling wines, often blended with Pinot Noir, produced in both the Traditional and Charmat Methods.

That being said, Peri’s Peri Talento Brut IGT 2007 is 100% Chardonnay. Produced using the Traditional Method, the wine showed some yeasty notes along with citrus and apple, finishing cleanly on the palate.

Lugana DOC Perla 2008 from Perla del Garda, blends 90% Trebbiano di Lugana and 10% Chardonnay for a wine with high acidity, citrus notes and minerality.

The indigenous Lugana grape makes its appearance in the Lugana DOC although other white grapes are permitted. Marangona’s Lugana DOC Tre Campane 2008 made solely from this variety has nutty and herbal aromas along with citrus on the dry palate. The Lugana DOC 2008 from Monte Cicogna is 100% Trebbiano di Lugana with aromas of stone and hay joined by citrus, honey, herbal, and bitter almond notes.

The rosé Chiaretto Garda Classico DOC Giovanni Aranzi 2009 is comprised of 60% Gropello, 10% Barbera, 15% Sangiovese and 15% Marzemino and greets the nose with fresh strawberry and cherry. The dry wine shows off its fresh fruit and floral flavors on the palate finishing with a bitter almond note.

Among the reds tasted, the Benaco Bresciano Rosso IGT 2005 Nepomucceno from Cantrina (70% Merlot, 15% Rebo and 10% Marzemino) displays deep, rich black fruit and chocolate. The Cascina Spia d’Italia’s Garda Classico DOC Rosso Superiore 2007 includes the required grapes (percentages unspecified) as well as Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine offers aromas of black fruits, floral and vanilla while berries and bitter almond dominate the palate.

Speaking to a group of press and trade members, Santi Bonhomme, President of the Lago di Garda Consorzio, explained that a project to group all of the red wines under a single denomination – Valenèsi – was underway. This move may help to simplify these wines in the U.S. marketplace, but will not go far enough in demystifying them. I would suggest that Lago di Garda may be a better choice because perhaps it will be a fond reminder of vacations past for the American buyer.

Grand Cru Classes Invites a Wild Child to Dinner

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As former members of Channing Daughters’ wine club, we annually received a bottle of the winery’s L’Enfant Sauvage Chardonnay. We have been fans of this wild ferment wine since our very first visit to the winery way back when and so were always reluctant to open the wine since we wanted to save it. Well, if you do that long enough, you end up with a mini-vertical. Once we realized what we had amassed, we decided to taste the wines together to more easily compare and contrast them, but determined that drinking five bottles on our own was a bit much. Hence, we decided to host a dinner party featuring these wines.

Communication with Channing Daughters’ winemaker, Christopher Tracy, revealed that the wines were still showing quite well and that, yes, he would be interested in joining us for the dinner if he were available.

Planning ahead, we selected a date in early December – sufficiently past harvest, but before the holidays – and were able to host local winemakers and other members of the wine industry. Christopher graciously offered to bring the two vintages we were missing – the 2001 and the 2008, permitting us to complete the L’Enfant Sauvage set.

Attendees:
Hosts: Tracy Ellen Kamens and Jared M. Skolnick, Grand Cru Classes
Christopher Tracy, Channing Daughters
Juan Micelli-Martinez, Martha Clara Vineyards
Bridget Quinn Micelli-Martinez, Palmer Vineyards
Kareem Massoud, Paumanok Vineyards
Karen Kankel, Paumanok Vineyards
Kelly Urbanik, Macari Vineyards
Rob Koch, All-around nice guy
Kristina Szama, Michael Skurnick
Lenn Thompson, New York Cork Report
Remy Charest, Palate Press

We kept the wines top of mind when designing the menu:
Gougères – to accompany the sparkling wines poured upon arrival
Tuscan white bean soup and black bean soup garnish (see above image)
Deconstructed BLT – Smoked pork belly, wilted spinach and oven-dried tomatoes on a bed of polenta
Wild Mushroom Risotto
Swordfish with Butternut Squash Purée and Roasted Cauliflower
Flourless chocolate cake for dessert

My tasting notes are a bit abbreviated as I was focused on being a good host and getting each course on the table.
2001 – deep gold, oxidized note, bruised apple; bruised fruit, butter and nuts
2002 – medium+ gold, lightly oxidized character, citrus, apple, nuts
2003 – deep gold, oxidized character, slight sweet aroma, bruised red apple
2004 – deep gold, cleaner nose, spice, oak and apple
2005 – medium gold, perfume, oxidation, spice
2006 – medium+ acidity, citrus and green apple
2007 – medium gold, citrus and apple
2008 – medium gold, spice, citrus, medium+ acidity

 

What’s New with Old Rioja

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Located in north-central Spain, along the Ebro River, the Rioja region is made up of three subregions – Alta, Alavesa and Baja – and holds Spain’s highest quality wine classification, DOCa.

Within Rioja (as in the rest of Spain), aging requirements for wines and their labels are legally defined. For each term, a minimum aging period in oak and bottle applies, but producers are permitted to and often do exceed these minimum requirements.

• Joven/Cosecha – young wines, no aging requirements

• Crianza – 12-18 months in oak + 1 yr in bottle

• Reserva – 18-24 in oak + 1-2 years in bottle

• Gran Reserva – 24-36 months + 3 yrs in bottle

Although there are similar aging terms applied to whites and rosés, the length of time is reduced, preventing the wines from otherwise being overwhelmed by oak.

At the Vibrant Rioja trade tasting earlier this year, some interesting wines and equally interesting production techniques came across my radar.

In an unusual move, producer Sierra Cantabria employed the use of carbonic maceration as part of its fermentation process for its Cuvée in an attempt to get significant fruit concentration. The wine then spent 14 months aging in French and American oak.

At San Vicente, the observation of vines with hairy leaves in their vineyard, led to the discovery of a clone of Tempranillo now known as Tempranillo Peludo. There are 50ha on the estate, which have been isolated from the rest of the property. Surprisingly, this clone seems to prefer clay soils, as opposed to the sandy and stony soils preferred by other Tempranillo vines.

While Rioja is generally produced from some combination of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano, winemaker David Sampedro from Bodega Don Sancho de Londono blends in 5% Viura, a white grape variety, in his Phincas 2008.

Cepas Antiguas’ importer asked if the estate would produce an unaged wine from 40 year-old vines, which is unheard of for a Joven wine, with some grapes harvested from vines as old as 80 years. Why? The importer wanted to show the terroir. At $12.00 retail, this is an excellent wine for the price, providing much more complexity than other young wines with a well integrated palate.

Although most wineries produce a range of Rioja wines from Joven through Gran Reserva levels, the Valenciso estate only makes one wine and it is always at the Reserva level.

These wines highlight just some of the diversity and innovation taking place in Rioja today.

 

TASTING NOTES

Sierra Cantabria Cuvee 2007, 100% Tempranillo, $30.00 SRP
Very fruit focused nose of blackcherry and raspberry, but the palate was more oak driven with notes of cedar, spice with a strawberry undercurrent.

R. Lopez de Heredia – Vina Tondonia Reserva White 1993, blend of Viura and Malvasia, $43.00 SRP
Slight oxidative note, showing some development, herbal and citrus notes. Honey, oxidized, and apricot flavors, with medium+ acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Cortijo 2010, 80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha; $10.00 SRP
Strawberry and leafy notes on the nose. Very lush fruit on the palate – strawberry and tobacco leaf, medium+ length.

Phincas 2008, 70% Tempranillo, 15% Graciano, 10% Garnacha, 5%; $38.00 SRP
Very modern in style and very tannic – needs time to mellow.

Cepas Antiguas Tempranillo 2009, 100% Tempranillo; $12.00 SRP
Strawberry, herbs, tobacco on the palate and nose. Full body, nice acidity and medium+ length.

Valenciso Reserva 2004, 100% Tempranillo; $40.00 SRP
aged in 100% French barriques. The wine was showing some development on the nose with faint fruit notes, oak, leaf/tobacco. On the  palate, the strawberry and raspberry flavors were more prominent, joined by the leaf/tobacco notes, all of which lingered on the long palate.

Italy by the Glass

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On a hot, humid day in June, I headed to the Hudson Hotel for an Italian wine tasting. After ascertaining the exact location of the event from the hotel staff, I took the elevator to the top floor. After I walked down the long corridor, I checked in and proceeded to begin tasting. The winery representatives were at tables arranged on the perimeter of the room, while open doors at the end of the room beckoned. Unfortunately, the heat was just too oppressive to take advantage of the view afforded by the rooftop terrace, so I turned my attention to the wines.

The assembled group of producers was a bit of a hodgepodge, representing a diverse set of regions including: Abruzzo, Umbria, Lombardy, Sicily, Trentino and Tuscany. Despite the lack of an overtly cohesive theme, the wine line-up provided an opportunity to taste lesser-known varieties and appellations.

From the Tuscan seaside – the Maremma – Casal di Pari produces wines in the Montecucco DOC. Sandwiched between Brunello and Morellino, the hillside vineyards benefit from cooling sea breezes and are planted to Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot. The two wines available for tasting were the Montecucco Rosso DOC 2007 and the Montecucco Rosso DOC Ciarlone 2009, the latter of which was more expressive even though the blends were precisely the same.

Italy’s northern region of Trentino is home to Marco Donati, whose family has been growing grapes in the area since 1863. The appellation wine, Teroldego Rotaliano DOC consists entirely of the indigenous Teroldego and was full of dark fruit with noticeable oak, smoke and vanilla. The Vigneti Delle Dolomiti IGT Situla Rosso 2009 is a mix of Lagrein, Teroldego and Marzemino and displayed notes of plums, berries and smoke.

The wine that stole the show was Terre de Trinci’s Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG 2004. As I walked through the room, I was constantly greeted by colleagues and friends who kept asking if I had tasted it yet. Continually waylaid by the aforementioned friends, I didn’t reach the producer’s table until much later. However, when I finally did, I was in agreement with their favorable assessment. Produced from 100% Sagrantino, previously only used to create sweet wines, Terre de Trinci was the first to make a dry version of Umbria’s native grape back in the 1960s. The wine’s complex aromas included Port, licorice, vanilla, berries and spice coupled with full body, medium+ tannins and long length. The producer’s Umbria IGT Rosso Trinci 2009 is a blend of 80% Sagrantino and 20% Merlot and, while not as complex, showed much of the same characteristics.

Another highlight was the wine from Cantina di Villa, based in the Valtellina denomination of the Lombardy region. Here, the Nebbiolo grape, made famous by Piedmont’s Barolo and Barbaresco, sometimes travels under the pseudonym of Chiavennasca. Of course, file that under the adage “a rose by any other name,” because these wines deliver on Nebbiolo’s promise. The Cantina had four separate wines available to taste starting with the basic Valtellina Rosso DOC 2006 (90% Nebbiolo and 10% Pignolo) which offered dried flowers and sour cherry. Moving up to the Valtellina Rosso Superiore DOC Incontri 2003 (95% Nebbiolo and 5% local varieties), these aromas and flavors were joined by dried cherries, dried herbs, rose and slight earth. The younger Valtellina Rosso Superiore Grumello 2006 was earthier with fuller body, but less developed. At the top of the range, the Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG Tinaia 2006 (100% Nebbiolo) was, in a word, gorgeous! (yes, my tasting notes include the exclamation point). More floral than the Grumello, the intricate production process of drying the grapes for several months prior to pressing, then repassing the must through the skins multiple times and aging the wine in large casks for a minimum of three years, showed in its richer, more concentrated palate. Notes of dried cherries and plums remained throughout the wine’s long length.

The preponderance of reds was unfortunate since the high temperatures really called for whites, but those to be found were less interesting – a typical Pinot Grigio from the Veneto, a Trebbiano-Chardonnay blend (untasted) and a Müller-Thurgau (also untasted because I had already assaulted my palate with powerful reds). However, all in all, the tasting offered a great selection of wines.

Alto Adige’s White Wines Hit A High Note

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Introducing a seminar on Italy’s Alto Adige region, Cornerstone Communication’s CEO Marsha Palanci explained that, “This is the only part of Italy where you can hear yodeling in one window and arias in another.” Not surprisingly, in looking at regional photos, you would half expect Julie Andrews to suddenly appear and belt out songs from the Sound of Music.

Marsha further added that both Mediterranean and Alpine botany could found growing side by side in the region, before turning the presentation over to the panel moderator Mary Ewing-Mulligan. Mary stressed the homogeneity across the region and underscored the ageability of these wines due the high mineral content in the soil.

Alto Adige, the northernmost region of Italy, was under Austrian rule until 1919, hence the yodeling. And, to this day, both German and Italian are the official languages. With the Dolomites to the East and the Alps to the north, these mountain ranges shelter the area from the cold forces of the North and trap air from the lakes. This protection also extends to the limited rainfall with the region seeing 300 sunny days per year. (Although with my luck, I’d be liable to visit on one of the other 65 days.)

When considered separate from Trentino, Alto Adige is the smallest of Italy’s 20 regions. To put its size in perspective, Mary explained that the land was 50% larger than New Jersey, but that the population was just 6% of New York City. Yet, despite its limited size, 98% of its production is at the Protected Designation of Origin level – the most of any Italian region. In fact, three times as many of Alto Adige’s wines win Tre Biccheri awards compared to Tuscany.

The area’s steep slopes are given over to white grapes while the lower, rolling hills are planted to reds. The core varieties seen in the U.S. market are Pinot Bianco (aka Pinot Blanc), Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Nero and Lagrein, which highlight the region’s Germanic and French influences. Regardless of the specific variety, white plantings account for 55% and are on the rise.

The seminar’s tasting was a varied set of grape varieties and vintages, with the oldest wine dating to 2002.

 

Franz Haas Cuvée Manna 2004, IGT Dolomiti, Italy, ($40.00, 2009 vintage)

In 1988, the winemaker attended a 7-course tasting dinner and was inspired to create a wine that would pair well with a broad range of foods/courses. This wine, a blend of Riesling, Chardonnay, late harvest Gewurztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc, is the result of that inspiration. The Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are both barrel-fermented, which add complexity to this unusual wine. With six years of age, the wine was showing some development with notes of honey, spice, pear and floral. The high acidity and medium+ body provided nice structure to the complex and concentrated flavors, which culminated in long length throughout the mineral finish. The wine is IGT as opposed to DOC designated due to its unorthodox blend.

Nals Margreid Pinot Grigio Punggl 2007, Alto Adige DOC, Italy, ($24.00, 2009 vintage)

In an old German dialect, the word Punggl means hill, which, in this case, refers to the name of this hilltop, single vineyard located in the southern part of the region. Earth, mineral, green apple and a hint of citrus aromas gave way to a palate of high acidity, medium body, mineral, citrus, orange peel and long length. Aromatic with crisp acidity, Mary described the wine as having one leg in Alsace and another in Italy, while Klaus Gasser, oenologist at Terlan, suggested that it had great tension now, but could age up to 10 years.

Terlan Nova Domus Terlaner Riserva 2005, Alto Adige DOC, Italy, ($55.00, 2007 vintage)

The reason for the apparent duplication is that Terlan is both the town and the name of the appellation. Intertwined in the region for ages, this Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc blend has been made by Terlan for 100 years. Floral aromas with slight honey, spice, stone and pear greet the nose while citrus, floral, yeast and mineral notes persist on the youthful palate. Klaus attributed the mineral character to the Pinot Bianco. Mary remarked that the Sauvignon Blanc was speaking, but further admitted that the wine could age beautifully and that, “great Pinot Bianco is from Alto Adige.”

Alois Lageder, Chardonnay Löwengang 2002, Alto Adige DOC, Italy, ($40.00, 2007 vintage)

Löwengang refers to the 400 year old Manor House known as Lion’s Gate at the winery. Here, these 40-60 year old vines are grown on southeast facing vineyards, which receive good sun exposure. The long growing season permits the grapes to develop concentrated wines. At fours years old, the wine was showing some development with earth, slight oak, mineral, apple and citrus aromas. The palate was still quite youthful with high acidity, full body and an undercurrent of spice and oak throughout its long length. Mary advised that the wine’s strong acidity masked the fact that it had undergone malolactic fermentation.

Peter Zemmer Gewürztraminer Reserve 2006, Alto Adige DOC, Italy, ($29.00, 2009 vintage)

The winery’s stated goal to capture grapes at their natural freshness comes through on this pungent, but balanced wine. Both beautiful and elegant, the wine showed pronounced notes of floral, tropical fruit, spice, smoke and mineral. The medium+ body, medium+ acidity and oily texture provided a backdrop for the spicy, honey, tropical fruit flavors with good concentration and ripeness in the finish. Mary noted that while there was some noticeable residual sugar on the palate, it came across more as richness than sweetness due to the wine’s high acidity.

HARVEST East End Wine Salon – Mad about Merlot

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The second annual HARVEST East End – wine auction and celebration of Long Island’s wines – took place this month (September 2011). Kicking off on September 3, wine salons were held at various wineries and other locations for three Saturdays, culminating in the Festival Tasting on the evening of September 17, immediately followed by the Havest Moon Gala at The Ludlow Farm.

As we neared our destination, signage directed us not only to Ludlow Farm, but also to the corn maze. We thought that was an interesting idea, but, in fact, the festival walk-around tasting took place under several tents, away from husks of corn. While the wineries were not hidden among the maize, we did manage to miss a few.

Prior to the main festivities, Grand Cru Classes was pleased to sponsor this year’s event once again by hosting one of the wine salons. Accordingly, on September 10, I presented my Mad about Merlot class, with a twist. The class is usually comprised of 5 or 6 Merlots from around the world, permitting attendees to compare and contrast the aromas, flavors and structure of Merlot wines from a wide range of terroirs. However, given that the salon was part of a celebration of Long Island, the wine selection was restricted to Merlots from the East End. Of course, the term “restricted” is quite a misnomer as the line-up proved to be even more diverse than usual.

Starting with Pugliese’s deep red-hued sparkling wine, the session presented participants with an overview of this much-maligned grape, while lauding its virtues both on Long Island and elsewhere. Next, attention shifted to a blanc de noirs — a white wine crafted from a red grape — with Lieb’s Merlot Blanc. If tasted under different circumstances (i.e. you didn’t know you were only drinking Merlots), it would be easy to mistake it for a Sauvignon Blanc. Adding back some color, attendees then tasted Croteaux’s rosé produced from Merlot clone #314 from St. Emilion. The rosé was followed by a wine created by members of the L.I. Merlot Alliance, all of whom provide a barrel of their Merlot for the annual project. While the Merliance wine was from a recent vintage (2008), the other straight Merlot (from Lenz Winery) hailed from the 2001 vintage, showed some beautiful development and inspired a McCall beef dinner later that night. Finally, guests were treated to Channing Daughters’ Madeira-style Merlot called Pazzo (which translates as mad or crazy in Italian).

Who knew Merlot, and Long Island Merlot at that, could be so varied? If anyone says they don’t like Merlot, they have to be kidding. With five completely different styles of wine, one would be hard pressed not to find at least one to their liking.

  • Pugliese Vineyards, Sparkling Merlot 2003, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA
  • Lieb Family Cellars, Merlot Blanc 2010, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA*
  • Croteaux, Merlot 314 Rosé 2010, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA
  • Long Island Merlot Alliance, Merliance 2008, Long Island (NY), USA*
  • Lenz Winery, Estate Merlot 2001, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA
  • Channing Daughters, Pazzo 2004, The Hamptons (NY), USA *

*With gratitude to the producers for their gracious generosity.

In A New York State of Mind Revisited: The Hudson Valley

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Phyllis Feder of Clinton Vineyards

A relative hop, skip and a jump from New York City, the Hudson Valley wine region is much closer to Manhattan, but much less well known than its northerly neighbor, the Finger Lakes. Yet, this region actually boasts a longer history, with America’s oldest winery—Brotherhood Winery, which was established in 1839—located within its borders. Corresponding with the Hudson River Valley National Heritage Area map, this large region can be divided into three areas – Lower Hudson Valley, Mid-Hudson Valley and Upper Hudson Valley. Possessing neither the lake influence of the Finger Lakes, nor the maritime climate of Long Island, the Hudson Valley is cooler and thus, more conducive to cold-hardy European varieties and French-American hybrids, both of which are planted there. Despite its age, the Hudson River Region AVA has seen much of its growth in the past decade, with many of its wineries only a few years old. Accordingly, the region has a few well established wineries, but most are still getting their bearings.

A Modern-Day Veuve
The widowed, Mrs. Cliquot (aka Veuve Cliquot) took over the family Champagne house upon the death of her husband. Similarly, in 2009, Phyllis Rich Feder said goodbye to her husband, Ben, but not to the winery he had spent his life building. Today, she diligently keeps his vision alive, continuing to craft high quality, Traditional Method sparkling wines, along with several dessert wines, including an award-winning cassis. The Bronx-born Ben bought the property in 1969, but didn’t plant grapes until 1974, a decision further reinforced by New York’s Farm Winery Act in 1976. After studying in France at Bollinger in 1980, Ben learned to produce wines using the same techniques as those used in Champagne, but chose to focus on French hybrid, Seyval Blanc rather than the usual suspects (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier). Phyllis remains dedicated not only to Clinton Vineyards, but also to the New York State wine industry, serving on board of the New York Grape and Wine Foundation.

Driven to Succeed
As an undergraduate at Fordham University, Matthew Spaccarelli used to shuttle students between the Manhattan and Bronx campuses, but an early September day found him driving a group of journalists to the Hudson Valley. While you might think that he is a professional cabbie, Matthew is actually the winemaker and general manager for Benmarl Winery. Having purchased Benmarl in 2006, the Spaccarelli family is new to the world of wine, but is no stranger to the region. When Matthew was a child, his family lived locally on an acre and a half of land that abutted a state park. He and his brother would depart early in the day with a sleeve of chocolate chip cookies, not to return again until dinner. These childhood treks instilled a love of the land in Matthew, which is evident as he talks about the new vineyards that are planned. Although he studied Political Science, he has spent several harvests in Mendoza, Argentina as a cellar rat, relegated to managing pump-overs as much due to his inexperience as due to his broken Spanish. However, his limited knowledge is clearly not an obstacle as a barrel tasting of wines from the 2010 vintage shows.

Defying Gravity
Steve Osborn prides himself on his winery’s sustainable practices. Active with Cornell’s sustainability study, the winery seeks to minimize its environmental impact and, to that end, Scott has installed a solar photovoltaic array on the winery’s roof. In addition, the winery was designed to take advantage of natural cooling, having been constructed in a hillside. Utilizing gravity flow production, Stoutridge’s winemaking practices are non-interventionist with none of the wines ever filtered or fined. Accordingly, all wines are only available at the winery due to this lack of processing and more fragile state of the wines. In 2009, Stoutridge added a distillery, thereby expanding its range of products.

Bee Mine
Beekeeper Ray Tousey fell in love with Clinton Vineyard’s Cassis and went about creating his own version with the addition of honey to balance out the tartness of the black currants. After branching out into other wines, he realized that he didn’t enjoy winemaking nearly as much as beekeeping. So, a quick call to his daughter and son-in-law, Kimberly and Ben Peacock, brought the pair home from England and to the helm of the family operation. Today, Ray and his partners can turn their attention to bees and other projects as Ben serves as manager of the winery.

Beyond wine, the area is also home to farmstead cheese producers and several distilleries including Harvest Spirits, producer of CORE Vodka and other apple-based spirits, and bourbon-producer, Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery.

 

TASTING NOTES

Benmarl Winery, Slate Hill White NV, Hudson Valley (NY), USA, $18.00
The Slate Hill (a translation of Benmarl) White is a blend of Chardonnay, Riesling and Traminette. With high acidty, this dry wine has floral, citrus and bitter almond notes.

Clinton Vineyards, Jubliee NV, Hudson Valley (NY), USA, $30.00
Produced entirely from Seyval Blanc, this fully sparkling wine is made using the Traditional Method and is topped off with minimal dosage, resulting in a relatively dry wine. The nose is a mix of yeast and brioche, while the palate also includes apple peel and citrus.

Hudson-Chatham Winery, Chelois 2008, Hudson Valley (NY), USA, $22.00
Chelois is a French hybrid developed during the phylloxera epidemic as a replacement for Pinot Noir. Fortunately, Pinot Noir didn’t disappear, but equally fortunate is the development of this grape variety. Earthy and leafy with red fruit, this wine is vaguely reminiscent of Pinot Noir, but with a slightly foxy note.

Stoutridge, Gravitas 2008, Hudson Valley (NY), USA, $24.00
This wine is a blend of locally-grown, red grapes—Frontenc, de Chaunac and Cabernet Franc—which come together to create a dry wine with aromas and flavors of wet leaves, herbal characteristics and red berries.

Tousey Winery, Cabernet Franc 2010, Hudson Valley (NY), USA, $22.00
The grapes for this wine are purchased from Oak Summit Vineyards, which limits its own wine production to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The wine showed spice and plum aromas, which were joined by wet earth and mushroom on the palate.

Whitecliff Vineyard, Awosting White NV, Hudson Valley (NY), USA, $13.00
Among the more veteran members of the region, husband and wife team, Michael Migliore and Yancey Stanforth-Migliore, founded Whitecliff Vineyards twelve years ago. Referred to as a Hudson Heritage White, their Awosting White is a blend of Seyval Blanc and Vignoles and will be the first hybrid wine served at The Gramercy Tavern. Aromas of floral and grapefruit greet the nose, while the palate is slightly off-dry, but with vibrant acidity and beautiful balance.

Morrell: The Wine Bar with the Stellar Cellar

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Given its position steps away from Rockefeller Center, you’d be forgiven for thinking that Morrell Wine Bar is just for tourists. Sure, its location is attractive to out-of-towners visiting NBC Studios (or, the tree, at Christmas), but the bar also draws wine celebs, such as author Leslie Sbrocco and her publicist Kristen Green, and other afficiandos with its stellar cellar.

In this regard, Morrell’s offers 125 wines by the glass and 800 by the bottle. By-the-glass options range from the easy-drinking, Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontés 2010 from Argentina at $9.00/glass to more serious options such as the Kistler, “Les Noisetiers,” 2009 from Sonoma Mountain at $30.00.

The overall wine list, as well as the featured flights, changes weekly as wines are sold out and new ones are added.

Moreover, their “Best of the Best” flight provides an opportunity to taste highly allocated, cult wines not available elsewhere. For example, on a recent visit, the line-up included Peter Michael ‘Belle Côte’ Chardonnay 2009, Château d’Esclans “Garrus” Rosé 2009, Marcassin Three Sisters Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006, Joseph Phelps Insignia 2006 and Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino 2006.

Unfortunately, this special flight is off the menu for a few weeks, but will return the day after Labor Day through Thanksgiving. Although these wines are available to order by the glass, the $99.00 flight is an amazing value compared to purchasing the wines by the glass on their own (each is about $40.00/glass).

Situated next door to its sister establishment, Morrell’s retail store works in close concert with the bar. With the chance to try before you buy, patrons can sample by the glass prior to splashing out on a full bottle or case.

Both off-premise and on-premise lists are managed by Morrell’s wine buyer, Jean Reilly, a newly minted MW with a penchant for Pinot and sky-diving. When buying wine, Jean always keeps the customer in mind. For example, she notes that she sometimes comes across wines that don’t suit her particular taste, but looks past that and tries to focus on the quality and how well that wine represents a particular style.  Jean further adds, “Retailing is very competitive and as a buyer, I feel like I have to keep my eye on the customer 24/7.”

Additionally, Jean explains that wines that pair well with food are also a big emphasis of hers. She acknowledges that wine pairing has become more challenging with many of the current trends in food, such as the chiles that pop up in unexpected places or fruit-based sauces on a main course. In response, she has shifted her attention to reds with little to no tannin to compliment this type of cuisine. More specifically, Jean has introduced several New Zealand Pinots and a red from the Jura region of France at the Morrell Wine Bar, both of which have proven to be fabulous partners for the bar’s food.

On nice days, take advantage of the coveted outdoor dining or sit inside either at a table or the bar. Beyond beverages, the food is inventive and fresh. Roasted red beets are served with crème fraiche, while a salad combines roasted peaches with fennel and a triple-cream Pierre Robert. The seasonal menu makes it just as easy to order dinner as it is to eat more lightly with its small and shared plates. And, local ingredients are sourced whenever possible; a current menu item is accented with honey made on a midtown roof-top.

Open seven days a week, the kitchen and bar begin at 11:30 AM Monday through Saturday, with food available until 10:00 PM and beverages until 11:00 PM. A truncated schedule is presented on Sundays with brunch and drinks served from 12:00-4:00 PM.

Morrell’s frequently offers classes and special events at both the store and bar. On Fridays from now through Labor Day, in-store tastings and Wine Bar promotions will showcase Champagne, with representatives from the wineries on hand to answer questions.

August 19, 2011
Goerg Champagne store tasting from 4:00-6:00 PM and Wine Bar tasting from 6:00-7:00 PM*

August 29, 2011
Roederer Champagne store tasting from 4:00-6:00 PM and Wine Bar tasting from 6:00-7:00 PM*

*Two-for-one flutes of select Champagne will be also available after 7:00 PM.

A Meeting of the (Winemakers’) Minds

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While it is great to hear from winemakers about their wines, it isn’t exactly a unique experience. However, listening to a panel of winemakers from around the globe talk about key issues in the wine world is a special treat. And, one perhaps made even better when that panel is moderated by Kevin Zraly.

In July 2010, amidst a torrential downpour, I arrived at Moet-Hennessy’s Chelsea offices damp, but not downtrodden. Welcoming the cup of coffee that was offered, I spent some time viewing various displays for Moet-Hennessy products. Once everyone had arrived and was assembled in the conference room, the Winemakers’ Forum began.

The panel included Leone Contini Bonacossi, Owner of Capezzana; Marc Sorrel, Estate Director for Chateau de Sancerre; Nicolas Audebert, Cheval des Andes’ winemaker; Ian Morden, Estate Director for Cloudy Bay; Joel Burt, Assistant Winemaker at Domaine Chandon; Andrea Leon, Winemaker for Casa Lapostolle; Andrea Felluga, Livio Felluga’s winemaker; Laura Bianchi, owner of Monsanto; Chris Millard, executive winemaker at Newton Vineyard; Winemaker Manuel Louzada from Numanthia; and Terrazas’ senior winemaker, Adrian Meyer.

Kevin kicked off the session by asking the winemakers to share their favorite wine memories, especially those that cemented their interest in, and love for, wine. For some, it was a single wine – perhaps a 1996 Bandol (Adrian), Krug 1928 (Nicolas) or a Bonne Mares from one’s birth year (Marc). For others, it was a particular experience – tasting sparkling wine in the winery with one’s grandfather (Manuel) or stealing down into the cellar at 13 (Andrea L.) or 5 (Leone) and drinking from either the bottle or barrel, respectively. And, as Ian reminded everyone, context is everything; “You can’t divorce wine from the occasion.”

Trekkies know that space is the final frontier, but Kevin next queried where in the world was the next wine frontier. There was a diversity of responses ranging from the need to explore higher altitudes due to climate change and the shift in wine styles to up-and-coming grape varieties and regions. There was no one grape variety identified, but rather, certain varieties were associated with new areas such as Syrah in New Zealand’s Hawkes Bay; Chenin Blanc in Stellenbosch, South Africa; Petit Verdot in Maipu, Chile; and the  rediscovery of Trebbiano, Malvasia and Friulano.

Building on the topic of change and innovation, the discussion then centered on changes in winemaking. On this, there was more consensus among panel members. Many spoke about the return to more traditional winemaking and a less is more approach. Another theme was an increased emphasis on the vineyard and terroir.

Viticultural advances were further noted such as drip irrigation and the development of rootstocks. A focus on balance was also mentioned, whether through canopy management, matching grape varieties with the right climate or achieving balance in the wine itself.

Here, Mary Ewing-Mulligan asked the panel to address the fact that the alcohol is not in balance even though winemakers say it’s not about alcohol. In response, Nicolas explained that sometimes waiting for full maturity in the grapes results in high alcohol levels. He added that while “[the alcohol level] could be high and be too much, it could [also] be high and you don’t feel it.” “I feel it,” said Mary.

With regard to wine in the market, both Laura and Marc lamented that consumption habits had declined in Europe, especially with the younger generation which drinks less wine and more beer and cocktails. While others agreed, Ian countered that new markets, especially China and Brazil, were becoming increasingly sophisticated with regard to wine.

More specific to the American market, Leone expressed pleasant surprise at the level of knowledge displayed by the people at her hotel’s reception desk. She was impressed with the broad picture they had on wine compared with young Italians whom, she said, have a more regional palate.

When Kevin mused about the outlook for the U.S. – Is it generally getting better? There was a resounding yes from the group. However, this sentiment needs to be tempered in light of recent economic issues.

And, what was their opinion of American wines? A number of people mentioned the quality of Oregon wines, naming its Pinot Noirs and sparkling wines in particular. However, Laura confessed that she had tasted American Sangiovese, but wasn’t worried about the competition (she produces Chianti, which is primarily made from Sangiovese).

Questioned about wine critics, the feeling was that critics play an important role, helping to narrow the field for the consumer. However, it was also admitted that, like any system, it has some good and bad elements associated with it. While Andrea L. stated that it was rewarding as a winemaker to receive high scores, Nicolas emphasized that, “if you are making wine as a passion, you are not making wine for critics.” Joel also suggested that the power of big critics is waning due to blogs, an opinion that Chris shared.

As a final topic, the conversation turned to biodynamics and organics. A few, such as Nicolas and Adrian, admitted that being organic was easy for them due to climatic conditions. Yet, Andrea F. and others pointed to high rainfall and humidity as impediments to such practices. However, the overall feeling was that such viticultural practices were crucial in and of themselves, not as marketing efforts. Consequently, many winemakers don’t indicate their practices on the label. In this regard, Joel proposed that, “It’s important to be stewards of the land,” an emotion echoed by Andrea F., who noted that, “We have to take care of the planet.”