When I was first invited to taste the new wines from Fattoria Sardi Giustiniani with co-owner Jacopo Giustiniani at his wine bar, Felice 83, I politely declined. I had no time or interest to schlep all the way across town. Plus, private label wines? Who cared? I buy Stop & Shop’s private label groceries all the time, but certainly don’t need to taste test them. Thanks, but no thanks!
However, when the press agent invited me to meet with Jacopo privately during a much quieter week, I decided she’d earned points for persistence and said yes. Additionally, having just enrolled in Italian classes, I had the misguided notion that I could practice my limited language skills with him.
Arriving at Felice 64, Jacopo’s other Upper East Side location (a third location opened in the Financial District in September), my first thought was that the wine bar itself was really nice. Jacopo later pointed out design details – such as demijohns used as lighting fixtures and the marble-topped bar –that had been inspired by his native Tuscany, further adding to the charm and overall ambiance. My second thought was that I had been crazy to think that I could conduct the meeting in anything other than English.
Getting down to the business at hand, the handsome and charming Jacopo proceeded to share his story with me (perhaps if the initial invitation had included his photo I may not have been so quick to turn it down?). Ten years ago, Jacopo’s grandfather, Sebastiano, passed away, leaving the family vineyards located in Lucca to Jacopo’s father. While the land has been in his family for 200 years, it had never been a true business…until now. Jacopo’s father, an engineer like Sebastiano, didn’t have the time or interest to do much with the vineyards, but, at age 22, just starting out in his career, Jacopo knew he wanted to be an entrepreneur. Fondly remembering visits to his grandfather and seeing him having fun on the tractor and in the cellar, Jacopo saw the vineyards as an exciting challenge. After earning his master’s degree, Jacopo completed an internship at Antinori . His younger brother, Matteo, only 18 at the time of Sebastiano’s death, eventually pursued formal training in oenology, studying first in Florence and then in Bordeaux, serves as the winemaker.
This joint focus on Italy and France carries through to the vineyard. Conquered by Napolean in 1805, Lucca was given to his sister, Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, to administer. As a principality of France, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and others were planted in Lucca back in the 1800s. Thus, while the Super Tuscan movement adopted many of the French varieties back in the 1960s and 1970s, the Lucca area (and its Colline Lucchesi DOC) has long embraced red and white French grapes.
Today, in this same tradition, the Giustiniani lands are planted to both French and Italian grapes, with the latter varieties including Vermentino and Sangiovese. Jacopo was quick to point out that the local Vermentino differs from the clone found in Sardegna and produces wines with much more minerality. Situated in northwest Tuscany, the vineyards are only a few kilometers from the sea and thus benefit from its cooling influence. This, coupled with a good shift in day to night temperatures, keeps the wines fresh.
The family’s philosophy, as espoused by Jacopo, is that wine is meant to go with food and in this regard, their wines have good acidity, concentrated fruit flavors and some complexity, but do not overpower the palate (or the plate). In addition, both grape and oak tannins are carefully controlled. As Jacopo joked, “I want to drink, not chew, my wine.”
In total, there are seven wines currently available in the Fattoria Sardi Giustininiani portfolio, along with three Felice-labeled wines (bianco, rosato and rosso ). (NB: Both rosés are out of stock until the next vintage.)
Tasting through the portfolio, I was extremely impressed with the wines. Along with the aforementioned minerality, the Vermentino 2011 had nice citrus notes along with an almost briny character and bracing acidity; a perfect foil for shellfish. The Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (the first vintage of this wine) is more Bordeaux than Marlborough, with citrus, herbal, slight oak and good structure due to the six months it spent in used barrels. While showing nicely now, Jacopo and I agreed that the wine will continue to develop in bottle over the next several months. Meanwhile, the Felice Bianco 2011, a blend of Chardonnay and Grechetto, offered rich tropical fruit and vanilla. Yet, despite its ripeness and full body, the wine was still fresh and well balanced.
Reds include the Villa Sardi Rosso 2010, which brings together Sangiovese, Merlot and Moscato Nero. This refreshing red is deceptive in that it has a certain earthy depth to it in spite of its lighter body and dominant cherry, strawberry and floral notes. The Fattoria Sardi Rosso 2010 is a blend of Syrah and Colorino, with a drop of Sangiovese. With firm tannins, earth, meat and black cherry flavors, this is a decidedly savory styled wine. Like its counterpart, the Felice Rosso 2009 is a bit fruitier than the others, with ripe cherry and plum notes taking precedence over the secondary notes. But, again, this wine has an approachable style without being dumbed down or losing its elegance. Finally, the Fattoria Sardi “Sebastiano” 2008, named in honor of grandpa, is primarily Merlot (80%) and was aged in oak barrels for 18 months, followed by 12 months in bottle, prior to its release. It is showing some development with well-integrated oak characteristics, coupled with plum, black cherry, cedar and spice. It is richly layered with silky tannins and long length and could certainly be laid down for a few years.
Beyond their availability at the Felice franchise, given Jacopo’s ties to Sant Ambroeus (he is the Wine Director and his uncle is the owner) as well as to Casa Lever (another family project), these wines are also on these restaurants’ lists. A handful of other restaurants (Marea, Locanda Verde, Felidia, Maialino and Otto) carry them, too. On the retail front, look for the wines at De-Vino Wine Boutique (although its website doesn’t currently have any available) and Italian Wine Merchants (which has the Sebastiano Merlot for $36.99).