Category Archives: Wine

Avery returns to the mountain to make great wines at Galil

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As a more recent addition to the Israeli wine scene, Galil Mountain was established by Golan Heights Winery (which produces Yarden) as a joint venture in 2000. With its emphasis on entry-level wines, it serves as a lovely counterpoint to those produced at Golan Heights. But, make no mistake, these are still well-made, high quality wines, capable of aging, despite their wallet-friendly price points.

Keeping it within the family, Galil Mountain recently appointed Michael Avery as a winemaker for the brand, who had previously worked closely with Victor Schoenfeld at Yarden for more than a decade. Michael speaks very highly of his mentor noting that Victor is one of the biggest contributors to the industry and, more personally, acknowledges how much he learned from him, including how to make sparkling wine.

Before arriving in Israel, Avery was raised on the family farm in Mildura, Australia, gaining exposure to grape growing and winemaking, which he then pursued formally, earning degrees in winemaking from Monash University and the University of Adelaide. Upon graduation, he worked in McLaren Vale for Kangarilla Road/Gemtree Winery, then later studied with an Israeli and decided to do a vintage in Israel. Not long after, Victor offered him a seasonal position, which Avery jokes was a really long vintage, staying on with Yarden until 2018. After a brief hiatus in Oregon, Avery returned to Israel to take on a winemaker role with Galil Mountain.

Avery is excited about the opportunity to work at Galil Mountain, which cultivates five vineyards to the north of the Sea of Galilee. Here, the high elevation of the vineyards (the vineyards are at 2000 feet above sea level), volcanic soils, good diurnal variation, moderate temperatures, limited rain, no disease pressure, good light and great air circulation all conspire to provide very favorable conditions for grape growing. Consequently, they are able to grow various varieties, ultimately producing a wide range of wines.

Like its sister winery, Galil Mountain is focused on sustainable practices, which it has adopted from the Lodi Rules program. Avery explained that while some organic and biodynamic techniques have been implemented, the over-arching principle is to take the practices that work best for their situation. Among the more specific practices that are used at Galil include lots of compost and soil management as well as the reuse of materials such as the couches at the winery made from old pallets.

Under the Galil Mountain brand, the winery produces three main labels: Galil Mountain, Galil and its flagship wines, which are blends created from specific vineyards. The percentage of grape varieties change from vintage to vintage, depending on yield and growing conditions. Journalists were introduced to these wines (and to Avery) at a recent lunch, held at Gramercy Tavern.


TASTING NOTES

Galil Mountain Rosé 2018, $19.99
Produced from a blend of Barbera, Sangiovese, Pinot Noir and Grenache, this wine offered up nice fruit aromas and flavors of peach, berries/strawberry, with a slight grip and long length.

Galil Sauvignon Blanc 2018, $19.50
Aged on the lees for added texture, this wine was lean and mineral in character, with a pronounced nose of citrus and herbs. It displayed bright acidity, with a slight hint of ripeness on the palate, culminating in long length.

Galil Mountain Grenache 2018
This fresh and fruity, yet balanced, wine was medium-bodied, with lively acidity, aromas and flavors of berries and cherries, along with medium length.

Galil Mountain Merlot 2017, $15.99
This unoaked red showed notes of plum and coffee, giving way to flavors of red berries, sage and bitter chocolate. It had a more tannic structure than the Syrah.

Galil Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, $17.50
Notes of dark chocolate, menthol and black fruit greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, along with good acidity and medium+ body.

Galil Mountain Syrah 2017, $15.50
With gamey and leather aromas, this wine is fresh and full bodied, with red and black fruit and long length.

Galil Ela 2014, 19.99
A blend of Syrah, Barbera and Petit Verdot, this dry red wine spends one year in French oak barrels, but was quite delicate with smoke and red fruit aromas and flavors, medium+ body and long length.

Galil Alon 2014, $21.99
This wine is comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, which have been aged in French oak for 12 months. With darker fruit, spice, slight cocoa, well ripened tannins and well-integrated oak, this was an especially lovely wine.

Galil Yiron 2015, $35.00
Bringing together Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot, this dry red was intense and rich on both the nose and palate. It spent 16 months aging in French oak barrels and displayed an elegant structure, with lots of red and black fruit notes.

Lugana DOC dines at Jing Fong, two souls and lots of happiness

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While the adage, “What grows together, goes together,” is a great place to start for food and wine pairing inspiration, if you don’t explore beyond it, you will miss out. As part of her Inaugural Lugana Dinner Series, East Coast Lugana Ambassador, Susannah Gold, proved the point in spades with a recent Chinese banquet accompanied by a variety of wines from the Consorzio Lugana DOC. Held at Jing Fong, Susannah and Pinny Tam, author of Chinese Wine and Food Pairings.com, put together an amazing meal that highlighted the flexibility and diversity of these wines.

Kicking off the event with a warm welcome, Susannah noted that the Lugana DOC had two souls in that it uniquely spans two Italian regions: Lombardy and the Veneto, depending upon which side of Lake Garda the winery is situated. This beautiful area sits essentially at sea level, with elevations of only 50-150 meters, on a glacial moraine with a range of sediment in the soils, including fossils.

This small winemaking region is on the rise, having increased production from 9 million bottles in 2015 to 18.9 million bottles currently. Today, there are 200 producers and, in addition to the increased volume, it is experiencing increased interest, notably by the Germans, who frequent the region as tourists, but also from American consumers.

At the center of its wine production is the Turbiana grape, which is also known as Trebbiano di Lugana. A biotype of Verdicchio, which is most associated with the Marche region, it, too, has the propensity to age. Although the wines are generally dry, the super high acidity is balanced with approximately 7 g/l of residual sugar, which permitted them to pair well with the Asian cuisine.

In business for 78 years, Jing Fong is one of the oldest Catnonese restaurants in the U. S. At the helm is Executive Chef, Kai Fung Lai, also known as Chef Fung who has been with Jing Fong for over 20 years.

The sumptuous banquet featured Catonese cuisine, which Pinny explained was known for a simple approach (not overly covered with sauces) and also a lot of seafood and fish, given the southern province’s proximity to the sea and river. Moreover, she further advised that stir-frying is the most common cooking method, resulting in clean, not overly greasy, food. Additionally, she cited frequent use of garlic, ginger, scallion, cornstarch and sugar, rice wine as the base for seasonings.

Referred to as a Happiness Dinner, our banquet was served family-style, with each course presented in the center of the table before being served on our individual plates. It was an elevated family meal, with flourishes added to celebrate birthdays and other festive occasions. And, boy were we happy! The courses kept coming, spanning from fried rice and fried fish to lobster and a platter of cuttlefish adorned with its own floral arrangement.

Moreover, the wines truly held their own. Although there was certainly a thread that ran through them, each of the wines had a distinctive characteristic that permitted it to match the next course. It was a wonderful evening of great wine, great food and great company… and lots of happiness!

Our full menu:

  • Baked scallops with crispy seafood rolls
  • Sautéed cuttlefish with vegetables
  • Sautéed shrimp and chicken
  • Assorted seafood in a basket
  • Oriental steak filet
  • Crispy whole chicken
  • Fried filet of fish with minced garlic
  • Steamed lobster with garlic over E-Fu Noodles
  • House Fried Rice
  • Dessert: Coconut Gelatin and Fresh Orange Segments

TASTING NOTES

Cantina Bulgarini Lugana DOC 2017
This Lombardy-based, family-run winery is currently in the hands of Fausto Bulgarini, a member of the third generation to manage the winery and a collector of race cars. This wine was fresh, with floral and peach notes, a dry palate, high acidity, minerality and long length.

Le Morette Mandolara Lugana DOC 2017
Named for a popular bird native to the region, which was considered sacred during the Etruscan period, this winery was founded in 1955 and is in the Veneto. It was fuller bodied that the Cantina Bulgarini, with rich and concentrated flavors of peach and almond, culminating in long length.

The vibrant acidity and fresh fruit notes on these first two wines made them an especially excellent accompaniment to the fried and creamy dishes.

Cà Maiol Molin Lugana DOC Molin 2017
This wine takes its name from one of the estate’s old farms. It offered up lively acidity and was slightly frizzante on the palate, along with tropical fruit, citrus, minerality and long length.

Cesari Cento Filari Lugana DOC 2016
With 5% of Chardonnay added to the Turbiana, coupled with a long macertation, this wine had more structure and richness, displaying an almost a creamy note, with less fruit and more structure. As a result, it paired extremely well with the lobster dish. Ca

Dei Frati Brolettino Lugana DOC 2016
This Lombardy winery was founded in 1939. The wine possessed full body, with apple and toothpick aromas and flavors thanks to its oak aging, along with medium acidity and enough body and structure to match with the chicken and steak.

Tenuta Roveglia Lugana DOC Vendage Tardive Filo di Arianna 2014
Tenuta Roveglia was established by a Swiss businessman In 1930. This wine is harvested in late October/ early November, by hand, and then fermented and aged in small oak barrels, yielding a wine with depth, richness and concentration. Notes of honey and citrus dominated the nose and palate, joined with long length. It works well with dessert, unctuous cheeses or rich meats.

From Régis to the Sublime: Piper-Heidsieck’s Changing of the Guard

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For over two decades, Régis Camus has been at the helm of Piper-Heidsieck’s winemaking, garnering admiration, accolades and awards (as Piper’s Chef de Caves, he has been named Sparkling Winemaker of the Year eight times by the International Wine Challenge jury). But, after 24 vintages devoted to the Cuvée Brut NV, it was time for a change.

Since 2000, Camus has included the company’s prestige cuvée, Rare, under his purview and was responsible for the creation of its rosé counterpart, Rare Rosé, first released in 2016. While Rare was initially the tete du cuvée, the wine has now become its own brand with increasing substance and status. Accordingly, as Camus turns his attention to all things Rare, Piper-Heidsieck has brought in new talent to take over its Cellar Master spot: Émilien Boutillat.

Admittedly, given Camus’ experience and expertise, these are not easy shoes to fill. However, the youthful Boutillat is no stranger to Champagne, having grown up in the region to a Champagne-producing family. In fact, his father worked with Piper-Heidsieck as a grower and Boutillat fondly remembers visiting the Champagne house as a child to ride the train that used to be on the property.

Following in his family’s footsteps, he studied enology and agricultural engineering, and went on to work harvests both at home and abroad. After building up a solid portfolio of experience with stints in Bordeaux, the Rhône Valley, Southern France, Chile, New Zealand, California and South Africa, he returned to Champagne as Cellar Master for Champagnes Cattier and Armand de Brignac.

In late 2018, Boutillat joined Piper-Heidsieck, working closely with Camus to better understand the style of the brand and learn how to make the blend. He is committed to maintaining the same style and excellence of the Piper brand, but is also looking forward to making his mark. In this regard, he anticipates making subtle changes as he adds his own personal touch, all while respecting the DNA of the brand.

More specifically, Boutillat notes that details are very important, and plans to focus on the vineyards more so than on changes in winemaking, looking at factors such as harvest dates. He is also dedicated to sustainable agriculture, with the intention of adding to the efforts already underway at Piper-Heidsieck. In particular, he will encourage sustainable viticulture practices among Piper’s partners and will raise standards in the vineyards.

When not at work, he performs with a local Improv theater group and is an avid hiker. Closer to home, he grows his own vegetables and enjoys cooking, always seeking to find a balance between the wine and food. Thus, it was a perfect introduction to him and the art of pairing wine and food, when he made his New York debut after nine months of “study.” At lunch at Hudson Yards’ Wild Ink, the current crop of Piper-Heidsieck’s Champagnes showed beautifully with the Asian-inspired cuisine and we had fun trying out different wines with each course. Although none of these wines were made by Boutillat, it was clear that he is up to the challenge and that the future of Piper-Heidsieck is in good hands.

TASTING NOTES

Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV, $45.00
Based on the 2015 vintage, the Cuvée is made up of 50% Pinot Noir 30% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. It is toasty and fruity with citrus and pear notes. The palate is rich and complex yet not complicated, with long length.

Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage NV, $60.00
The Rosé Sauvage uniquely drinks more like a still wine than a Champagne and is one of the darkest rosé’s on the market. It offers up dark red fruit and berries, along with smoke and sweet spices, with intense richness on the palate, along with great acidity and long length.

Piper-Heidsieck Brut 2012, $80.00
The 2012 is the most recent vintage; the last one was 2008. A 50-50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, sourced among the best grapes from Grand and Premier Crus vineyards, this is an age-worthy wine that can keep in the cellar for up to 15 years. Aromas of yeast, tree fruit, toastiness and cherry greet the nose, while the palate is very complex, seductive, generous and creamy, with the added flavors of honey and spice, culminating in long length.

Piper-Heidsieck Sublime (Demi-Sec), $55.00
This demi-sec dessert wine has 35 g/l of residual sugar, but is very balanced and elegant, with bright acidity and a citrus note lingering in the fresh finish. Aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, vanilla, mango, gingerbread and coconut made it a perfect pairing partner to dessert as well as spicy foods.





The next wave of Vinho Verde makes its way from Monção e Melgaço

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While Americans heralded their historic founding on July 4th, the Portuguese celebrated similarly on June 10th — Portugal Day, which commemorates Portugal’s history and culture. The country’s poet, Luís de Camões, who died on June 10, 1580, was highly regarded for his epic poem praising and recording the accomplishments of the Portuguese Empire, and is now forever linked to this holiday.

Although Portugal Day is generally only observed in Portugal, this year, two wonderful wine events provided a great way to hail Portugal’s vinous culture: Esporão Day and a luncheon featuring wines from Vinho Verde’s Monção e Melgaço subregion. And, after tasting through glass after glass, it is evident that Portugal has reason to rejoice these days!

Situated in Portugal’s northwest corner, abutting Spain, the Vinho Verde region is one of the oldest in the country. This wine growing area was demarcated in 1908 and is dominated by a maritime climate thanks to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. While many people are more familiar with Vinho Verde as a whole, the recent lunch provided a more in-depth look at one of Vinho Verde’s subregions: Monção e Melgaço.

Of the nine subregions, Monção e Melgaço has garnered one of the top reputations for its wine and features a unique microclimate due to its location at the northernmost point of the Vinho Verde region. Here, because the mountain chain cuts off access to the ocean, there is less marine influence, resulting in hotter and drier summers than in the other subregions. Monção e Melgaço also boasts granitic soils that further influence the wines.

Although several grape varieties are grown in Monção e Melgaço, it is most prized for its Alvarinho (grown and known in Spain as Albarino). The variety was thought to have been introduced to Vinho Verde by the Cluny monks in the 12th century and has become one of Portugal’s highly respected white grapes.

There were three producers represented at the lunch: the family-owned winery, Soalheiro; Provam, which was established in 1992 by 10 winegrowers; and Adega Cooperativa e Regional de Moncao, which is 60 years old. As we tasted through a selection of their wines, we had the opportunity to explore their quality and caliber.

Overall, they possess more structure and complexity compared with more generic Vinho Verde wines. And, in fact, the consortium and producers confirmed that the trend has been to craft wines with more body, structure and complexity. To this end, some of the producers are utilizing barrel fermentation, oak aging and/or batonnage (lees stirring) in pursuit of adding depth and structure.

TASTING NOTES
The Adega Cooperativa Alvarinho Deu La Deu 2018 is a fresh and fruit-forward wine with vibrant acidity and lots of citrus notes. It was a great aperitif to accompany the passed appetizers: shrimp ceviche and cucumber and lettuce cups and poached salmon and capers.

Once seated, we were served a beautiful dish of scallops and spring greens garnished with beet and pomegranate. This was paired with the Adega Cooperativa Alvarinho Deu La Deu Reserva 2015, which offered up lovely freshness, aromas of apricot and pear, with a rich and round, medium+-bodied palate, culminating in long length. In addition, the Soalheiro Alvarinho 2018 provided a classic style with tropical fruit, nice depth and concentration, with flavors of pear, spice and apricot.

The main course of grilled octopus, marinated tomatoes, pickled onions and herbs was outstanding and a terrific match for the two wines. First up was the Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas 2018, which was one of the first wines produced by this company. They age 15% of the wine in oak for added roundness. It displayed bright acidity, with slight tropical fruit and tangerine notes, along with medium body and long length. It was rounder and more food friendly than the other Soalheiro wine.

Next, we tasted the Provam Portal do Fidalgo 25 Anos Reserva 2015, which is made from old vines and had been fermented and aged in oak. The resulting wine showed lovely oak and honey on the nose, with medium+ acidity, a fuller body, very integrated oak and slight citrus notes on the dry palate, along with long length.

Finally, a dessert of pound cake, strawberries and a yuzu-lemon jam delighted the palate, served alongside the Provam Vinha Antiga Reserva 2017, with its fresh, bright acidity, citrus, apricot and minerality, with medium body and long length. It was an unexpected, yet perfect, pairing.

Getting schooled on L’Ecole 41’s top terroirs and the Walla Walla Valley

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Ensconced in an old schoolhouse from which it takes its name, L’Ecole 41 was Walla Walla’s third winery and is at the epicenter of Washington wine. The family-owned winery was established in 1983 by Jean and Baker Ferguson, two Walla Walla natives who started growing grapes and making wine as a retirement project. Five years later, their daughter, Megan, and son-in-law, Marty Club, came back to the valley to take over what had become a fledgling business. Today, the pioneering winery has become widely recognized for producing beautiful wines.

L’Ecole 41’s makes wines from the larger Columbia Valley, but its higher end wines, crafted from top vineyards in the triangular-shaped Walla Walla Valley, truly speak to the terroir of this region. Situated in the southeastern corner of Washington State, Walla Walla provides a high desert climate, with rainfall limited to the winter months. Thanks to the hot, dry conditions, red wines account for 95% of the local production. Yet, in spite of the daily heat, the elevation and large diurnal shift result in a bright, natural acidity that has become a hallmark of all Washington wines. And, the sandy soils mean that the vines don’t need to be grafted onto American rootstocks.

I first became aware of the wines of L’Ecole 41 when I tasted their Semillon at the Society of Wine Educators’ conference back in 2005. But, given the time that had passed and my lack of knowledge of their highly regarded reds, I was intrigued when I received an invitation to taste through several terroir-focused flights.

With 36 years of winemaking experience, L’Ecole 41 now takes a uniform approach to each vintage. Accordingly, they follow the same vineyard and winemaking practices from year to year, which permits the terroir to show through even more than if they were to adapt to each growing season.

Our first flight focused on the Seven Hills Vineyard, one of L’Ecole 41’s estate vineyards situated in the southern perimeter of the valley. The 128-acre vineyard is comprised of wind blown loess (talc) soils, with vines grown on the North-facing slope due to the high heat. Jointly owned with several other wineries, it is planted to Bordeaux varieties and Syrah. This initial introduction featured Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, all from the cool, 2008 vintage.

We next turned our attention to Perigee, a Cab-driven, Bordeaux blend, also sourced from the Seven Hills Vineyard. We tasted through three different vintages varying from the cool 2006 and the even cooler 2011 to the warm 2016. Despite vintage variation, all of these wines displayed a meatiness, along with dried herbs and robust concentration. Not surprisingly, 2006 showed some development with more tertiary aromas and flavors while the 2011 was the most tart and the 2016 offered up riper fruit notes.

The third flight featured Apogee, a single vineyard, Bordeax-blend wine, produced from grapes from the Pepper Bridge Vineyard. L’Ecole 41 was the first winery to make wine from this vineyard, which is on the floor of the valley, on the alluvial flood silts from the previous ice age. Since the 2011 vintage was too cool to produce this wine, we tasted the 2006, 2010 and 2016 vintages.

Last, but not least, we tasted through wines from the Estate-based Ferguson Vineyard. Found at the top of the crest, at 1400 feet in elevation, Ferguson is home to one of the most volcanic soils in Washington. The vineyard’s 18 inches of wind-blown loess sit on top of a two-mile- deep layer of fractured basalt, remaining from ancient lava flows. With its super windy and super sunny conditions, the 42-acre vineyard was planted in 2008-09 to Bordeaux varieties. In addition to producing Ferguson, the vineyard is also occasionally used to make a pure varietal wine.

We tasted Ferguson 2011 (its first vintage) as well as the Ferguson 2016, as well as a very powerful Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 from this vineyard. The latter was very structured, with firm tannins, dark, black fruit and bright acidity, while the more youthful Ferguson was even fresher, with more red notes; neither was overly dense or extracted, nor was the limited production (300 cases) Cabernet Sauvignon.

At price points ranging from $37 for the Estate Merlot wines to $65 for the Estate Ferguson, these are definitely premium wines. However, they over-deliver in terms of their quality and provide excellent value for such age-worthy, well-made wines that will delight your palate.

Summer Sippers: 2019 Edition

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With Memorial Day weekend in the rear-view mirror and the Summer Solstice upon us, we know that it’s safe to wear white and drink rosé (although admittedly you can drink pink any time of year!).

Jokes aside, it’s the perfect time of year to turn our attention to whites and consider lighter reds, along with the requisite rosés, as we get behind the grill or head to the park for a picnic. As such, we want food-friendly, fun and festive wines that will be a welcome addition to the party. Here are just a few ideas to get you in the mood for Summer 2019!

WHITE WINES
Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe Palomino Fino NV, Jerez, Spain, $20.00
Produced from 100% Palomino grapes, this wine is fresh, with slight yeasty and light nutty notes on both the nose and palate, culminating in long length. It is a great aperitif as well as a partner with salty, savory dishes.

Bodega Inurrieta Orchidea 2018, Navarra, Spain, $12.00
This Sauvignon Blanc offers up a pronounced nose of slight herbs, pink grapefruit, tropical fruit. It is dry with medium+ acidity, ripe citrus flavors with a hint of pith in the undercurrent, pineapple, medium+ body and long length.

Elk Cove Vineyards Pinot Gris Estate 2017, Willamette Valley (OR), USA, $19.00
This wine is beautifully aromatic, with concentrated aromas of floral, pear, and spice, along with a dry palate with medium acidity, ripe fruit and long length.

Ponzi Aurora Chardonnay 2016, Willamette Valley (OR) USA, $65.00
Barrel fermented and aged in barrel for 20 months, this wine is slightly woody with notes of vanilla and spice. Its full-bodied palate displays freshness, good fruit and acidity, with notes of apple and melon, good texture and salinity before culminating in long length.

ROSE WINES
Muga, Flor de Muga Rosé 2017 Rioja, Spain, $24.00
Produced from 100% Garnacha, this pink-hued wine is both delicious and refreshing, with good berries fruit.

M. Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut “Les Vignes” 2018, Pays d’Oc Rosé, France, $15.00
This estate was purchased by Michel Chapoutier in 1999 and, while this wine previously featured a small percentage of Syrah, this is the first vintage in which it has been phased out completely. It is now a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Cinsualt, displaying notes of strawberry, cotton candy, slight herbs and watermelon on the nose and dry palate, coupled with bright acidity and long length.

Louis Laurent Rosé d’Anjou 2018, Loire Valley, France, $13.00
Pale salmon in color, this wine is slightly off-dry, with aromas and flavors of floral, ripe berries, honey and cotton candy, with medium body and long length. The hint of sweetness is a good counterpoint to spicy foods.

Sokol Blosser Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir 2018, Dundee Hills (OR), USA, $25.00
This wine has been made since Sokol Blosser’s early days, but has gone through numerous name changes including Bouquet of Rose and Vin Gris of Pinot Noir. Aromas of peach, spice and strawberry greet the nose and are joined by spice and pepper on the dry, fresh, palate, along with good structure.

RED WINES
Domaine Gerard Millet Sancerre Rouge 2017, Loire Valley, France, $26.00
This wine offers up notes of smoke, herbs and dark cherry on the nose, with a dry palate, flavors of cherry and herbaceousness, bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Il Poggione Rosso di Toscana 2017, Tuscany, Italy, $19.00
This blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot displays aromas of dark red fruit, a hint of herbs and coffee, while the dry, medium+-bodied palate shows firm, ripe textural tannins, with bright acidity, fresh red, explosive fruit and long length. The wine can take a chill, making it a great option for a summer red!

Basile Cartacanta 2015 Montecucco Sangiovese, Tuscany, Italy, $23.00
Bringing together 80% Sangiovese with 10% Merlot and 10% Ciligiolo, this wine was aged for 12 months in French oak, then spent 18 months in bottle. With a lovely nose
of black cherry, slight herbs, oak and vanilla, it has a dry palate with ripe, juicy cherries, medium tannins with a grainy texture, medium+ body and long length.

Poggio Stenti Tribulo 2016, Montecucco Sangiovese, Tuscany, Italy, $24.00
Produced from 100% Sangiovese, this wine was aged for 18 months in French oak. It has an expressive nose of dried cherries, dried herbs and oak, with a dry palate, medium+ acidity, medium+ tannins, medium+ body, flavors of tart cherry and herbs and very long length.



Rioja’s Railway Wines: Holding Out for a Haro (Station)

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We all know the three most important rules of real estate: Location, Location, Location! And, while it’s true of real estate, it is also true in the wine world – the best wines are made in the best locations. Of course, what makes a great real estate location isn’t always the same as what makes a great vineyard location, but they also share a key trait: access to transportation. Case in point, the brandies of Cognac are far more well-known than those of Armagnac, thanks to the relative ease of getting Cognac to market via waterways as opposed to the arduous, overland journey required for Armagnac. So, you can imagine the profound influence that the Haro Railway Station had on the wines of Rioja.

Haro itself dates back to the 10th century and has long been associated with viticulture. Considered to be the heart of the Rioja region, Tempranillo-based wines have been produced here for centuries. But, it was the twin impact of the regional railway and the influence of the Bordelais, who had traveled to Spain in the wake of the phylloxera crisis, made it possible for Rioja to receive recognition on the world stage.

Prior to train travel, the wines would be transported more than 100 km via mules and carts.  But, once the Haro Station was built, Haro was one of the first cities in Spain to have a modern railway connecting it, not only elsewhere in Spain, but with France. Several wineries set up near the station to make it easier to get their wines into the market, creating the Haro Station District. Additionally, as French investors and Bordeaux producers came to the region, they realized that the Rioja wines needed time to age to become great, thereby further shaping the way these wines were made.

A recent Masterclass, Rioja Railway Wine Experience, led by Pedro Ballesteros, MW, traced this defining history and underscored the importance of innovation, technology and tradition in the production of these wines. Now, five decades later, the wineries situated in the Haro district are still focused on tradition, innovation and technology as they seek to maintain their reputations and overcome the challenges that lie ahead.

Specifically, they are seeking to improve quality and combat issues associated with climate change, particularly in identifying grapes that ripen later to maintain the requisite acidity. In response to these issues, they are investing time, talent and money into research and development and have also spent considerable resources on high tech tools such as optical sorters.

Participants at the Masterclass had the opportunity to taste some older wines from the assembled wineries, providing a benchmark of what classic, older Rioja wines taste like. They also were given the chance to taste wines that reflect the innovations currently being made.

Bodegas Bilbainas
With more than a century of history behind it, Bodegas Bilbainas was founded in 1901 by Santiago de Ugarte. It boasts large underground cellars and 250 hectares of vineyards. Its Vina Pomal brand first appeared in 1904.

Vina Pomal Gran Reserva 1978
They produce their wines in a Burgundian style and it was an absolute treat to taste this classic, aged Rioja. Pale garnet in color, the nose offered up dried rose and dried plum, while the dry palate displayed medium acidity, tart, dried strawberry, a hint of dried floral, dried herbs and long length.

Bodgeas Bilbainas Vina Pomal Vinos Singulares Graciano 2015
Their innovative entry reflects their emphasis on Graciano and its ability to provide bright acidity to its Riojas as the climate continues to heat up. The 2015 vintage was a great one. Notes of spice, white pepper, smoke, vanilla, hint of herbs/dried herbs, black cherry, very fresh, good acidity, firm tannins and long length.

La Rioja Alta SA
Founded in 1890 by five families, their descendants are all still involved in the winery to this day. La Rioja Alta’s 460 hectares of vineyards are situated within La Rioja with an emphasis on the Tempranillo grape. The winery maintains its own cooperage, using American oak. They have also made significant investment in research and development, including the purchase of an optical grape sorter.

La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 890 1981
A blend of 95% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano and Mazuelo, this wine was medium garnet in color with more concentration and a more intense nose than the 1978. Aromas of dried cherry, faint floral greeted the nose. The palate was dry with a slightly sweet fruit note of dried plum, slight tannic grip and long length. This was my favorite of the aged wines of the flight.

La Rioja Alta Garnacha de la Finca La Pedriza 2017
While not a commercial release, this wine offered a look at La Rioja Alta’s quality commitment to viticulture and its focus on Garnarcha as a way to maintain good acidity levels in its wines. The nose showed lots of bright, red cherry fruit, with some floral notes, both of which persistent on the dry, light+-bodied palate. It had zippy, bright acidity and culminated in long length.

Bodegas Roda
The new kid on the block, Roda was established in 1987 by Mario Rotllant and his wife, Carmen Daurella, whose vision was to create a modern-style wine that would serve as a hallmark for the region. Taking the first two letters of each of their last names Ro (Rotllant) and da (Daurella), Roda was born. Today, the winery works with a total of 120 hectares, 70 of which are estate owned and an additional 50 that are managed by contract growers. All of the vines are bush trained and dry farmed, with minimal intervention.

Bodegas Roda Roda I 2004
From the excellent 2004 vintage, this wine displayed notes of smoke, black fruit, vanilla, ripe fruit, with a dry palate with firm tannins, flavors of strawberry, black cherry and other dark red fruit.

Bodegas Roda Roda 107 2010
As part of their innovative efforts, Roda has identified 552 individual clones of Tempranillo, choosing 20 of them for propagation in search of the best Tempranillo. They have planted these various biotypes in pursuit of determining which ones will be the best for the future. This wine was a beautiful expression of a Tempranillo-focused Rioja, showing lots of rich, ripe strawberry and black cherry, with slight oak and vanilla, culminating in long length.

Muga
Founded in 1932 by Isaac Muga and Aurora Cano, the wines of Muga were initially made in an underground cellar until they set up their own winery in 1968. It is currently a family-run winery. Muga also has an on-site cooperage and is the only winery in Spain making all its vats and barrels. They practice traditional winemaking, including fining with egg whites.

Bodegas Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva 1994
Offering up a faint nose of red fruit and floral notes, the dry palate displayed flavors of strawberry, plum, slight dried fruit, a slightly grainy texture due to the tannins, finishing with long length.

Bodegas Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva 2010
Hailing from one of the best Rioja vintages, this wine is the result of Muga’s quality control using an optical sorter in selecting which fruit does (or doesn’t) go into the finished wine. An intense nose of herbs, floral and black cherry fruit, the palate offered up firm tannins, lovely dark fruit, oak and slight vanilla with long length. It is a beautiful wine with lots of potential; they suggested holding it until 2035.

Gomez Cruzado
Founded in 1886, Gomez Cruzado is presently a boutique winery with 250,000 bottles produced annually and is the smallest of the Haro Station District wineries. It is run by David Gonzales and Juan Antonio Leza. Its vineyards are comprised of old bush trained vines and the wines undergo long aging periods before release.

Bodegas Gomez Cruzado Honorable 2014
Showing herbal aromas coupled with dark fruit, this wine was fresh, with nice lingering cherries, herbs and cocoa, and long length.

Bodegas Gomez Cruzado Montes Obarenes 2015
A white Rioja, this wine is a blend of Viura and white Tempranillo grapes. The majority of the wine (80%) was fermented and aged on its fine lees in new French oak barrel, with the remainder in concrete tank. It was full-bodied, with good acidity, citrus, oak and vanilla, along with long length.

NB: For those interested, a more detailed account of this history is available online.


Oregon’s OG Wines

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Sure, Oregon wines are fashionable now, but back in the 1970s, no one was planting grapes in the Willamette Valley. The area was filled with peach trees, walnuts and blackberries, as many of the vineyard block names at Sokol Blosser can attest. But, in the early part of that decade, three brave families ventured into the region with the deep conviction that this was a very special place in which to make great wine.

These self-dubbed “Oregon Originals” – the Ponzi, Campbell and Sokol Blosser families – arrived relatively concurrently in a variety of vehicles ready to hit the ground running, with their kids: Luisa, Anna Maria, Adam (and his siblings), Alex and Allison in tow.

As pioneers clearing the land and putting their faith in Pinot Noir, the three families would get together on a regular basis, sharing ideas and finding community with one another. Similarly, the children grew up as friends and remain so to this day.

Back then, it was not chichi for your family to own a vineyard and the kids were often ridiculed by their peers and their parents called drunkards. Today, these “kids” are all grown up and have taken over the leadership of their family’s wineries, representing the second generation of Oregon wine producers. Their wineries remain committed to Pinot Noir and are still family owned.

Similarly, they are all equally committed to being stewards of the land and the community and feel that it is important to work together. With this overarching philosophy, the three wineries, led by winemakers Luisa Ponzi (Ponzi VIneyards), Adam Campbell (Elk Cove) and Alex Sokol Blosser (Sokol Blosser), recently came together to collaborate on a special cuvée. Each winery contributed fruit from a single block of Pinot Noir, with each winemaker ultimately making three separate wines from the three different parcels of fruit. These nine wines then served as the components for the final blend.

Members of the press and trade were invited to a special seminar to taste through these components in a true demonstration of “land versus hand.” Interestingly, the overwhelming consensus among the winemakers was that the best wines were those that had been produced using one’s own fruit, underscoring the importance of really understanding the grapes to create great wine. Not surprisingly, the finished wine, 2017 2GV Pinot Noir Cuvée, focused heavily on these three components.

As a limited production wine (350 cases), 2GV was crafted primarily as a charitable effort, but is available online for purchase by the bottle, from the Ponzi Vineyards website.



NB: Purchase does not entail being a member of Ponzi’s wine club, and as I understand it, provided an adult is on hand to sign for and accept receipt, Ponzi can ship direct to consumers anywhere within the U.S.

Hess’s Lions Head Luxury Collection, taming lions and tannins

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A few weeks ago, I was about to run out the door to a wine event when I noticed a torn wrapper on the floor. Upon further investigation, I realized that our dog had gotten hold of an unopened chocolate bar and had proceeded to enjoy the taboo treat. Since chocolate is poisonous to canines, I immediately rushed her to the vet who took care of her right away. Thankfully, she has since made a full recovery.

Needless to say, it was a stressful day and that night I very much wanted a glass of wine – a good glass of wine – because life is too short. And, somehow between managing clients and caring for the dog, I felt a bit like I was herding cats.

Or, perhaps, as I reached for the bottle of wine… a lion tamer? I had previously tasted the Hess Collection wines at a luncheon last year and had been quite impressed. Thus, when the opportunity to taste two new releases came up, I pounced (OK, I’m done with the feline puns, I promise).

In any case, the lion has long been associated with the Hess family whose crest proudly features a byzantine-style lion and the animal has always adorned the family’s alcoholic pursuits. It previously graced the labels of the family’s beer business and was then adopted for the winery. More recently, it has been adapted and designed for the label of the “Lion Tamer,” which launched last year and more strongly recalls the history of the original Hess crest.

Not surprisingly, the Hess family motto is “Live Each Day with the Heart and Courage of The Lion.” The lion’s Latin name, Panthera Leo, gives rise to the winery’s newest addition to the Lions Head Luxury Collection. This collection represents the most recent development at Hess, currently under the direction of Donald Hess’ son-in-law Tim Persson, and wife, Sabrina.

Hess Collection Panthera Chardonnay 2016. Russian River Valley, USA, $45.00
This launch release is produced from 100% Chardonnay and was aged in 35% new French oak for 15 months. Slight buttery notes, a hint of oak and vanilla and apple greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is dry, concentrated, rich and ripe, with apple, pear, nuts and butter/creamy flavors. It is medium+-bodied, with medium acidity, good balanced, elegance and long length.

Hess Collection “Lion Tamer” Red Blend 2016, Napa Valley, USA, $45.00
A changing blend, the latest release brings together 40% Malbec, 27%  Zinfandel, 21% Petite Sirah, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Mourvèdre, 1% Petite Verdot, 1% Merlot, which has been aged in 40% new French oak for 22 months. Aromas of plum, blackberries, blueberries and vanilla, give way to a full-bodied, dry, rich and ripe palate, with concentrated fruit of mulberry, bright, juicy acidity, ripe tannins and long length.

Yarden and Purim: A Day of Lots with Lots to Celebrate

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Life is often about fate. Whether you believe fate is predestined or that you make your own is another story, but it all comes down to series of different choices and their resulting consequences. This is the underpinning of the Story of Esther, which features prominently in the celebration of Purim. The Purim holiday takes its name from the Hebrew word for lots, since the fate of the Jewish people had been sealed by the wicked Haman who had cast lots as to which date their extermination would take place. Fortunately, his plot was foiled by the bravery of Queen Esther, and instead of the Jews being sent to the gallows, it was Haman who met his demise on that fateful day.

With such an emphasis on fate, it was fitting to meet Victor Schoenfeld of Yarden Winery on Purim this month. Thankfully, Victor’s own fate has never been so dire (at least not that I am aware), but it was a series of individual choices that he made that have brought him to his current role and place in the wine industry.

In pursuit of his love of food and the land, Victor first enrolled at UC Santa Cruz to study agriculture and later transferred to UC Davis to pursue a degree in viticulture. It was after spending a year managing a vineyard that convinced him that he needed to expand his knowledge to understand both grape growing and wine making, prompting him to fulfill the degree requirements in the latter as well. His next fateful decision was to accept a three-year contract to work for Yarden Winery, uprooting himself from Glen Ellen, California to the Golan Heights in Israel.

Arriving in 1991, Victor never expected to stay on beyond his initial contract, but today, 28 years later, he still holds the position of Chief Winemaker and is at the helm of 6-person team, all in pursuit of crafting quality wine. Having joined Yarden early on in its creation (the winery was originally established in 1983), Victor has been blessed with an amazing opportunity to truly grow the winery from the ground up. Currently, Yarden is a leader in the Israeli wine industry, making significant investments in research and development that is shaping its winemaking and that of its neighboring wineries.

When Victor first appeared on the scene, little was known about the region, but in the intervening years, he and his colleagues have come to better understand the climate, soils and the best way to grow grapes in the Golan Heights. As a country, Israel is relatively small, but it has a very diverse climate, which significantly impacts grape growing. As Victor notes, the key is to look to elevation to achieve the necessary cooler climate to maintain good acidity and freshness. Accordingly, whites are grown at 3,000-4,000 feet above sea level and reds can be found at an elevation of 2,000 feet. The soils are a combination of volcanic soils and even older mountain soils.

Now that they appreciate the nuances of their terroir, the emphasis is firmly on achieving even ripeness, which they do by carefully planning where the various vines will be planted. This permits them to get a good expression of varietal character. Once the grapes are ready to be picked, their quality control is further aided through hand harvesting and the use of optical sorting, ensuring that only the very best grapes find their way into the wine.  

Other areas of exploration undertaken by the winery have focused on ensuring quality rootstocks and vines. In this regard, Yarden has received ENTAV licensing for their own propagation area, growing vines and wood, with the goal of eradicating the country’s problem with leaf roll virus.

Additionally, they received certification from Lodi Rules Sustainable Winegrowing Program for their practices in the vineyard, the first winery outside of California to receive this recognition and a testament to Yarden’s commitment to the environment. This considerable accomplishment is bolstered by the winery’s use of solar power, recycling programs and development of an organic vineyard.

Overall, the various projects have permitted Victor and his team to use high tech tools to measure and understand how to grow great grapes and make excellent wine, such as their creation of a new way to measure vineyard strength. Consequently, they can react to any issues and make corrections as needed. As they continue to discover more about their land and how to best care for it, Victor notes that they are in the middle of a journey and adds that he is excited about what they are doing and learning.

Looking ahead, it is clear that the winery will continue to produce high quality wines that are both age-worthy and worthy of attention. What Victor’s fate will continue to bring, only time will tell, but for now, he continues to lead his team to good fortune and great wine. And, that, is definitely worth celebrating!

TASTING NOTES
Yarden Katzrin Blanc de Blancs late disgorged 2007, $105.99
This Traditional Method sparkling wine spent 10 years on the lees. Fresh with lively acidity, nice perlage, yeasty, toasty and citrus aromas and flavors, with good length.

Yarden Gewurztraminer 2017, $22.99
A pronounced nose of lychee, tropical fruit, spice and jasmine. Dry on the palate, with just a hint of ripeness, good acidity, slight oily texture, long length.

Yarden Chardonnay Odem Organic Vineyard 2016, $22.99
As Victor notes, “Oak is never the point…” of a wine, “It is a tool.” This wine spent 7 months aged in French oak barrels, with the wood well integrated into the wine. Dry, good acidity, good structure, not too heavy, creamy and round on the palate.

Yarden Katzrin Chardonnay 2017, $38.99
This Chardonnay is a blend of several different vineyards, taken from the most concentrated lots. Fresher than the Odem, but with more overt oak due to the lengthier aging (9 months). Still very youthful and will evolve in the bottle with time. Full bodied, apple, spice, angular, long length.

Yarden Merlot 2014, $30.99
Notes of plum, wood, coffee; dry, with ripe fruit, spice and medium tannins, giving way to long length.

Yarden Merlot Odem Organic Vineyard 2014, $105.99
More herbal in character than the previous Merlot. Spice, wood, plum, ripe, firmer tannins with earthy concentration, culminating in long length.

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, $35.99
As Yarden’s most awarded wine, this iconic Israeli wine is a diplomat for the winery. Beautifully balanced, with black fruit, good acidity, full bodied, firm ripe tannins, can age 15-20 years.

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon Bar’on Vineyard 2014, $105.99
Aromas and flavors of black berry, slight spice, herbs, it is ripe and fresh, with long length.

Yarden Katzrin 2011, $212.99
A Bordeaux-style blend, this wine is named for the town in which the winery is located. This vintage is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Merlot; more recent vintages include small percentages of Malbec and Petit Verdot. It has been aged for 24 months in French oak barrels. Brooding, menthol, black fruit, showing slight development, intense and concentrated, ripe, yet elegant, herbal, luscious, ripe tannins, with long length.

Yarden T2 2011, $22.50
This fortified, dessert-style wine is a blend of the Portuguese varieties of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao, which took some time to get established in the vineyard. It is aged for 28 months in French oak barrels. It displays a Port-like nose, with concentrated spice, cocoa and red fruit aromas, medium sweet, but beautifully balanced with bright acidity and long length.