Category Archives: Wine

How to buy wine at a wine auction

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Sold! to the highest bidder. Looking to find older or rare vintage wines, but your local wine shop doesn’t carry such a selection? Wine auctions may be a great solution.

There are two wine auctions coming up this month (see below), but before you head to the auction, here are some pointers to get you started.

Wine auctions typically aggregate the contents of various collectors’ cellars (or in some cases, one very prolific collector) when the collector has decided that he or she would like to liquidate some or all of their wine inventory. The best buys are frequently on mixed lots, which contain wines from several different producers and often in small quantities as these are less prized for their investment value as compared to full cases of a single wine.

** Register for the auction in advance, especially if it is being held at a restaurant, to ensure that there is space available. Registration will require you to provide credit card information.

** Peruse the catalog in advance to identify lots in which you have an interest and pay attention to when those lots come up. Lots will be listed with a low estimate and bidding will begin at that price.

** Decide how high you are willing to go and be willing to walk away from a lot that gets too expensive. Don’t get caught up in the moment amidst the frenzy of competitive bidding.

** Be aware that there is some risk involved when buying older wines. Reputable auction houses will spend time testing and tasting a selection of wines to ensure that they are in good condition and will check provenance as well. However, there is no guarantee that the wine will be okay. Accordingly, the catalog will usually indicate overall condition of the bottle — ullage (level of wine), label damage, and other aspects — to advise the buyer. For an extreme example, see my previous story.

** Expect to pay a Buyer’s Premium fee, which can be as high as 20%, above the actual hammer price of the lot.

** Expect to pay for lunch or dinner if you enjoy a meal as part of the auction. Some auctions may permit you to bring your own wine to accompany the meal and will waive the corkage fee.

Upcoming NYC auctions: 
Morrell & Company Fine Wine Auction
June 24, 2009
11:00 AM
Internet only – online bidding
Absentee bidding now open Zachy’s Wine Auction

June 25, 2009
9:00 AM
Restaurant Daniel

Oregon, but not forgotten: A Visit to the Willamette Valley

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We had the wonderful opportunity to travel to Oregon in May 2009, visiting downtown Portland and spending time in the Willamette Valley. While wine regions exist in Oregon’s other valleys, namely the Umpqua and Rogue, it is the Willamette Valley that has achieved the most fame. This wine region is producing spectacular wines and while we have left the area, the memories of its wines are certainly not forgotten. Despite its youth as a wine-producing state, Oregon has become nearly synonymous with quality wine. Yet, only a few decades ago, early settlers were laughed at by their peers. In 1966, David Lett was a newly minted UC Davis graduate determined to plant a vineyard and begin making wine. He found what he felt to be suitable land in the Dundee Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, founding the Eyrie Vineyard in 1970, and the rest, as they say, is history.

 

David was joined by other wine pioneers shortly thereafter, setting the stage for this nascent wine region. Seeing similarity between their terroir and that of Burgundy (heartland of Pinot Noir), they set about crafting wines that emulated these icons while respecting their own unique soils and climate. Perhaps the most ringing endorsement of their success was the investment made by top Burgundy négociant and producer, Maison Joseph Drouhin, when it established Domaine Drouhin in Willamette in 1988. Today, Oregon ranks as the fourth largest in U.S. wine production and its wines are highly acclaimed both here and abroad. In fact, Oregon Pinot Noirs are considered to be among the best New World Pinot Noirs.

Situated only one hour south from Portland, the Willamette Valley is home to varied volcanic soils and a cool climate. The Valley is divided into six sub-appellations: Dundee Hills, Ribbon Ridge, Eola-Amity Hills, McMinneville, Yamhill-Carlton District and Chehalem Mountains. Beyond world class Pinot Noir, the Willamette is also known for its Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and sparkling wines. To a lesser extent, some producers are working with Rhone varieties – Syrah and Viognier – most of which is sourced from the warmer Rogue Valley in southern Oregon. The majority of Willamette’s wineries are open to the public for tastings and sales and readily welcome visitors.

 

Thus, we arrived in Portland, OR on a Wednesday evening, ready for a long weekend of wonderful food and wine. From the airport, downtown Portland is easily accessible via public transportation and, once there, easily navigated on foot, trolley or bus. As a relatively major city, Portland is home to a wide range of neighborhoods as well as museums, historic sites and other points of interest. Due to our limited time in town, our cultural visit was restricted to the Rose (gratis) and Japanese Gardens ($8.00/adult), both of which were beautiful. The Japanese Garden was particularly lovely for its amazing view of Mount Hood.|

East of the city, visitors can escape to the “wilderness” and enjoy white water rafting, hiking and other outdoor activities. We spent a half-day rafting down the Clackamas River (www.riverdrifters.net; $60/adult), which was full of fury with the recent snow melt, but a lot of fun. We then returned to Portland and splurged on dinner at Paley’s Place (www.paleysplace.net), a local favorite that specializes in locavore cuisine, with a wine list to match. We were impressed by the food as well as with the excellent customer service and knowledgeable waitstaff, who not only expertly advised us on our wine selection, but also on the cheese selections at dessert.  

Saturday morning found us at the local craft market (known as the Saturday Market, www.saturdaymarket.org), which is host to hundreds of vendors peddling their wares from candles and clothing to jewelry, pottery and glass art. This outing was followed by a visit to the Portland Farmers’ Market (www.portlandfarmersmarket.org), where we stocked up on local produce, fresh strawberries, smoked fish, artisan bread and a host of other homegrown food. The reason for this latter stop was that, instead of staying at a hotel or bed and breakfast, we had opted to rent a cottage in Carlton while staying in Willamette. This arrangement provided us with a good excuse to buy a few bottles of wine each day to enjoy with dinner prepared on the grill at “home”, without worrying about driving while intoxicated.

 

Carlton, we were told, is the “center of the Willamette universe.” Compared to New York City (or even Portland), it is a very small town, but there is some merit to that statement. Carlton is home to a number of wineries and tasting rooms, along with several restaurants and wine and cheese bar, The Horse Radish (www.thehorseradish.com). Aside from being a great place to stock up on Oregonian and international cheeses, The Horse Radish features live music on Friday and Saturday nights and not just local bands; on the night we were there, the musical duo was from Arizona.

 

Excited to have arrived in the valley, we walked up to the Zenas Wines’ (www.zenaswines.com) tasting room. Zenas produces three of its four wines with fruit sourced from the Del Rio Vineyards in the Rogue Valley and its Riesling with Willamette Valley fruit. The Southern Oregon wines include a Meritage (Bordeaux-style blend), Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Named for Zenas Howard, an early (1856) settler in the Rogue Valley, the winery is currently owned by his descendents.

We then headed out to Anne Amie (www.anneamie.com; $5.00 tasting fee/ $10.00 for the Reserve flight). This property was formally known as Chateau Benoit Winery, but was purchased by its new owner, Dr. Robert Pamplin, in 1999. Dr. Pamplin has been focused on elevating the quality and reputation of his winery ever since and is producing primarily Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc on its L.I.V.E. certified sustainable vineyards. The tasting room is located at the top of a hill and provides beautiful views of the vineyards and Pacific Coast Range.

 

We kicked off the following morning at Penner Ash (http://pennerash.com), which focuses on both Burgundy (Pinot Noir) & Rhone (Syrah and Viognier) varieties. Founded by winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash in 1998, along with husband Ron, Penner-Ash has evolved from an initial 125 production to 8,000 cases annually. Another hilltop tasting room, the vistas are quite incredible as one walks amidst the lush landscaping.

 

From Penner-Ash, it was off to Adelsheim (www.adelsheim.com). Among the early pioneers, Adelsheim was established in 1971 by Ginny and David Adelsheim and several of its labels feature portraits of family members and friends of the winery. The newly renovated tasting room also offers outdoor seating, where one can enjoy a bottle of wine with a picnic lunch (we picked up our lunch ahead of time in Carlton at the Filling Station).

Our next stop was Daedalus Cellars (www.daedaluscellars.com), a small, family-owned and operated winery which specializes in Pinot Noir, but also makes small amounts of Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay and Grüner Veltliner. Additionally, Daedalus produces a second label, Jezebel, with grapes sourced from throughout the state for wines intended to be drunk early in their life. The tasting room is rather small, but is conveniently located on the main drag (99W in Dundee).

 

Exclusively devoted to Pinot Noir, White Rose Wines (www.whiterosewines.com) was planted in 1980. Its vineyard is a high-elevation sight on top of the famous Dundee Hills, permitting views of Mount Hood in the distance. Owned by Greg Sanders, the winery has developed several different wines, with four of the six wines named for Greg’s children.

 

We capped off the day at Carlton Winemakers’ Studio (www.winemakersstudio.com), which is a joint venture among several different wine producers. Launched in 2002, the studio is currently home to ten artisan vintners and serves as a great incubator for up and comers; past alumni include Penner-Ash, Soter Vineyards and Ribbon Ridge Vineyards. The facility itself is designed to maximize daylight and is produced from recycled and sustainable materials. On the day of our visit, we tasted wines from several producers including Hamacher Wines and Andrew Rich.

The second full day of tasting began at Bergström Wines (www.bergstromwines.com; $25.00 tasting fee). Founded by John and Karen Bergström, the couple’s five children and spouses now co-own the winery with their parents, with son Josh Bergström presently serving as winemaker. Known for ultra premium wines and a focus on vineyard expression, Bergstrom produces several limited production, vineyard-designate Pinot Noirs.

The next stop on our itinerary was WillaKenzie Estate (www.willakenzie.com; $15.00 tasting fee, refundable with $25.00 wine purchase), where we were greeted by co-owner, Ronnie LaCroute, who graciously provided us with a tour. As Ronnie likes to remind folks, “Dirt matters.” Therefore, it is no surprise to learn that WillaKenzie is named for a type of soil that originates from the pushed up sea floor found in the Yamhill-Carlton and Ribbon Ridge areas. Among the larger properties we visited, WillaKenzie is situated on a 420-acre, former cattle ranch and practices sustainable viticulture.

 

We ended our tastings at Amity Vineyards (www.amityvineyards.com), where we met with owner, Myron Redford, who began making wine in the Eola-Amity appellation (the southernmost Willamette AVA) in 1974. Myron has an extremely diverse portfolio at Amity, ranging from his EcoWine® range of organic and sulfite-free wines to the Reserve and single-vineyard wines.

 

SELECTED TASTING NOTES
Anne Amie, Cuvée A Amrita 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $16.00
Named for the Buddhist equivalent of ambrosia, Amrita is a white blend of Pinot Blanc (47%), Muller-Thurgau (25%), Chardonnay (15%), and Riesling (13%). Aromas of tropical fruit and grass give way to a dry palate with citrus and herbal flavors. 1,700 cases produced.

Adelsheim, Pinot Blanc 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $22.00
This Pinot Blanc shows citrus, mineral and pear aromas. On the palate, it is dry with medium acidity, medium body and notes of citrus and minerality.

Daedalus, Lia’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2006, Chehalem Mountain, OR, $25.00
After spending 500 days on the lees, along with 18 months in neutral oak, this wine displays aromas and flavors of yeast, citrus and toothpick.

 

White Rose Wines, White Rose Estate 2006, Dundee Hills, OR, $75.00
Produced from 30 year-old vines, cropped at only 1 ton per acre, this wine is very concentrated on both the nose and palate. Aromas of floral and earth give way to more fruity flavors of raspberry and cherry. 198 cases produced.

Bergström, de Lancellotti Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Chehalem Mountains, OR, $65.00
The de Lancellotti Vineyard bottling shows floral, raspberry and stone aromas and flavors, which combine with an earthy undercurrent that persists throughout its long length. 455 cases produced.

WillaKenzie Estate, Pierre-Léon Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley, OR, $38.00
With a beautifully perfumed nose accompanied by a note of fresh raspberries, this wine continues to deliver on the palate with raspberry, earth, minerality and an undercurrent of wet leaves.

Penner-Ash, Syrah 2006, Oregon, $32.00
Produced in the northern Rhone Valley tradition, this Syrah is co-fermented with 1.5% Viognier. The nose is a mix of plum, berries and floral. Its dry, medium+-bodied palate has a nice, ripe tannic grip with flavors of plum, spice and leather, culminating in long length.

Amity Vineyards, Late Estate Harvest Riesling 2004, Willamette Valley, OR, $15.00 (375 ml)
This late harvest Riesling offers peach, apricot and honey aromas on the nose, joined by developing and floral notes in the mouth. A true dessert wine, it provides significant sweetness on the palate, which is beautifully balanced with vibrant acidity.

Four Seasons restaurant celebrates 50 years as a New York institution

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It was truly an affair to remember: a cocktail hour featuring free-flowing Dom Perignon 1999 and wonderful hor d’oeuvres, a diverse and unique cast of characters and a palpable, celebratory energy in the room. You knew this was going to be a magical event. 

On May 5, moguls, foodies and celebrities alike, gathered to celebrate the Four Seasons restaurant’s 50th year. This venerable restaurant first opened in 1959 and has been a New York landmark ever since. Designed by architects Philip Johnson and Mies van der Rohe in the height of the International Style, the restaurant was among the first to be truly designed for its purpose, long before Adam Tihany and David Rockwell were de rigor for opening a restaurant.

Fourteen years ago, Alex von Bidder and Julian Niccolini took the helm as managing partners of the restaurant and Tuesday night’s event centered squarely on their personalities — Julian’s larger than life; Alex’s nowhere to be seen.

Emceed by Bill O’Shaughnessy, over a dozen took the stage to roast the pair, Friar’s Club style, including: Michael Mondavi, Edgar Bronfman, Liz Smith, Gael Greene, Drew Nieporent, Sirio Maccioni, Jonathan Tisch, Martha Stewart, Cesare Casella, Daniel Boulud, Pete Peterson, Pamela Fiori, Bob Grimes and Peggy Siegal.

Michael Mondavi recounted a visit to the restaurant with his father, Robert, in 1968, noting that only a handful of California wines were listed among the creme de la creme of French and Italian wines. He credited the Four Seasons with being among the first New York restaurants to prominently feature California wines in the wake of the Judgement of Paris.

Beyond the celebrities, everyone seems to have their own fond memories of the Four Seasons. The gentleman seated to my right explained that, when he was in college, he and his friends couldn’t afford to bring their dates to the Four Seasons for dinner, but would end the night at its bar, which made quite an impact on the young ladies.

Having first dined at the Four Seasons with my father in the mid-1990’s, the Four Seasons quickly became my favorite New York restaurant, to which I return for their magnificent wine dinners and to celebrate special occasions.

If you have not had the pleasure of dining at the Four Seasons restaurant, I urge you to take advantage of their anniversary-inspired, prix fixe menu, which, at $59.00 for three courses, is a relative bargain. It’s a chance to create your own magical moments as the restaurant looks ahead to its next 50 years.

For more info: Four Seasons, 99 East 52nd Street, New York, NY; 212-754-9450

Grand Cru Grapevine: Closure Disclosure (May 2009)

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We are recently back from a trip to Santa Barbara, which is an absolutely lovely place to travel. We were fortunate to visit numerous vineyards and wineries and tasted some fabulous wines.

If you’d like to taste some fabulous wines, while improving your wine knowledge, join us for one of our classes. Our public schedule kicks off this month, with classes held on Saturdays and Sundays. As always, we are available for both personal and corporate private events as well.

We hope you have been enjoying Tracy’s NY Wine Shopping Examiner column on Examiner.com. If you haven’t checked it out yet, be sure to catch up with all of her articles online. Again, suggestions and ideas for articles are always welcome!

You can also catch Tracy’s latest Words of Winedom column, at Big Blend magazine, and/or hear her on Big Blend’s Eat, Drink & Be Merry radio show on Monday, May 11, 2009 at 7:10 PM (EST).

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

CLOSURE DISCLOSURE: CORKED, CAPPED OR SCREWED?

As oxygen is wine’s Kryptonite, sealing a bottle of wine is important. Traditionally, cork, derived from the bark of cork trees, has been the method of choice for wine closures for centuries. However, recent failure rates for cork, reports of which range from 2-12%, are no longer deemed acceptable. The primary failure in question is that of cork taint, caused by a reaction of the Trichloranisole (TCA) bacteria with chlorine/chlorinated-compounds. This negative reaction begins on the surface of the cork and then spreads to the wine itself, rendering it undrinkable and smelling like my wet, moldy basement (or anyone’s wet, moldy basement for that matter). As alternatives, the wine industry has turned to screw caps and crown caps among other products. NB: Crown caps are used for sparkling wines, while screw caps are found on still wines. 

While many people historically associate screw caps with less expensive wines, their use in fine wines is becoming more prevalent. Notably, as of 2006, 90% of all wine made in New Zealand is bottled under a screw cap or crown cap. Australia lags behind, but is still ahead of most countries with its screw cap adoption. In the U.S., consumers have been somewhat slower to demand alternate closures than their Southern hemisphere counterparts, but some of the higher end producers are beginning to make the switch.

The technology has evolved dramatically, especially over the last two years, making these closure choices near perfect. They seem to overcome issues of cork taint, oxidation (spoilage by contact with O2) and reduction (off-flavors from a lack of O2). However, they are not without their critics, with some attributing health-risks with these closures (not well proven or documented). APCOR (the trade organization representing the cork industry) ran its own campaign to laud the advances made in cork technology to address its (former) failures. In fact, a new cork, DIAM, has been launched, which is virtually taint-free, but, quite expensive. Synthetic corks avoid issues with cork taint, but are thought to add a plastic aroma to the wine and can be extremely difficult to remove. Given the pros and cons of the various solutions, it is likely that this debate will continue throughout this decade.

In the meantime, it is clear that both traditional and alternate closures have their place in the market. The merits of one or the other aside, nothing can substitute for proper storage of your wine in order to preserve their quality. Expose your wine to light, heat and/or vibrations and you will be screwed, regardless of the closure on the bottle!

Tasting Notes

Frédéric Mallo, Pinot Gris “Special Delivery”, 2006, Alsace, France, $17.00 – CORK
From a fifth-generation, family-owned estate in Alsace, their Pinot Grigio remains in the tank for a longer period of time (up to one year before bottling) than several other of its wines, giving it a fuller body. It has notes of ripe citrus and pear fruit with clean minerality and long length.

Geyser Peak Chardonnay 2007, Alexander Valley, CA, $14.00 – SCREW CAP
Under the leadership of winemaker Mick Schroeter, Geyser Peak produces expressive wines. With aromas of butter, oak, vanilla, and apple, this wine is dry with medium acidity and flavors of apple, vanilla, (well-integrated) oak, and a slight hint of spice.

Wild Rock Vin Gris 2007, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, $7.00 – SCREW CAP
Deep salmon in color, this rosé has pronounced aromas of ripe strawberry, raspberry, floral and a slight candied note, which persist on the palate with great depth of flavor and fruit concentration. Made from a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah, it is medium bodied with long length.

Casa Santos Lima, Sousão, 2004, Estremadura, Portugal, $15.00 – CORK
Casa Santos Lima, located just north of Lisbon, is a relatively new winery, with its first wines produced in 1996. A porty nose of deep, dark berries gives way to a dry palate with good acidity, a full body, along with rich and ripe berry fruit and notes of chocolate/cocoa. 

Errazuriz, Merlot, 2006, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, $10.00 – SCREW CAP
While only some vineyards of the Errazuriz estate are certified organic, owner Eduardo Chadwick has been adopting these principles throughout his vineyards. With notes of plums, cherries and oak, the 2006 Merlot is blend of 85% Merlot, 11% Carmenere and 4% Sangiovese, with 50% of the wine aged for six months in a combination of American and French oak.

Grand Cru Grapevine: More than Manichewitz (April 2009)

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With Passover just ahead, many people might turn their thoughts to Kosher wines, so this month we explore some great alternatives to the usual plonk. It should be noted that these wines don’t need to be restricted to those who keep Kosher as they are wonderful wines in their own right and can just as easily grace the table for Easter, Tax Day or any other time.

Looking ahead for Grand Cru Classes, we will be launching our public classes next month, with the first class scheduled for Sunday, May 3, 2009, kicking off with our popular From Vine to Wine class at 2:00 PM. You can browse our full events listing or navigate using the calendar on the right side of our site. You may wish to note that, in recognition of the imperfect economy, we will be maintaining our 2008 prices for the 2009 season.

Among other exciting news, Tracy has been named the NY Wine Shopping Examiner for Examiner.com, which is currently the #285 website worldwide. She will be writing her column at least four times a week, on all things wine and retail related – secret shopper expeditions, event announcements, sniffing out sales and testing tools. Suggestions and ideas for articles are always welcome!

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

MORE THAN MANACHEWITZ

Unless one is an observant Jew, the choice of a Kosher wine doesn’t spring to mind except for once a year – Passover, which begins April 8th. F or years, Kosher wines had a deservedly bad reputation. Generally, one was stuck with the sickeningly sweet, Manichewitz Concord wine. But, fortunately, times have changed and many new Kosher wines have emerged as high quality wines that just happen to be Kosher. In fact, there is much more than Manichewitz showing up on retail shelves and they are definitely not wines that should be passed over.

Intuitively, people think of Israel when they think of Kosher wines, but this is a needlessly limited view. Rather, Kosher wines are being produced around the world from Australia and Chile to France and Italy. Regardless of where the wine is from, in order to be Kosher, the wine must be produced in accordance with Jewish dietary and other laws. Most specifically, Kosher wines must not be made with any animal products. For example, some wineries use egg whites to fine their wines, but as egg whites are a product of chickens, other fining agents, such as Bentonite, must be employed instead. 

In addition, the wine must be made under rabbinical supervision and handled solely by Sabbath-observing Jews throughout the entire winemaking process through to the point of service. In order to get around this latter point given the logistical issues it creates, some Kosher wines are heated to 185oF permitting non-Jews (or less observant Jews for that matter) to handle the wine without voiding it of its Kosher status. These wines are referred to as meshuval, which is the Hebrew word for cooked. Newer technology reduces the high heat exposure and consequently, is less likely to negatively impact the wine, as it had in the past, especially as this is frequently done prior to fermentation. Accordingly, today’s Kosher wines are indistinguishable from non-Kosher wines when it comes to the taste.

Tasting Notes

Covenant Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Napa Valley, CA (USA), $100.00
This is certainly a far cry from Concord Grape and if you choose to serve or bring this wine to a seder, please invite me! With grapes sourced from a rocky, three-acre parcel of land within the acclaimed Larkmead Vineyard, this wine has meaty, smoke, oak and black fruit aromas. On the palate, it provides medium acidity and full body, with well-integrated tannins and notes of blackberry, cherry, smoke and an undercurrent of cocoa in the long finish. 

Beckett’s Flat Five Stones, Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2007, Margaret River, Australia, $18.00
A boutique winery in Western Australia, Beckett’s Flat has been producing Kosher wines since 1998. This wine emulates white Bordeaux with its blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon. With nice, vibrant acidity, the wine displays cut grass, lime and grapefruit on the palate. It has long length. 

Abarbanel Riesling 2004, Alsace, France, $22.00 (Meshuval)
This is the only kosher Alsatian Riesling imported to the United States. It is a classic Riesling with tropical fruit and honey aromas on the nose. On the palate, it is dry with high acidity and flavors of citrus, honey and minerality. 

Layla Pinot Noir 2006, Mendoza, Argentina, $14.00 (Meshuval)
The grapes are sourced from the highly prized Luján de Cuyo sub-appellation of Mendoza. Showing strawberry notes on the nose, the wine is dry, with bright acidity. It provides flavors of tart berries with an earthiness in the finish.
NB: While not as food friendly for a seder as the Pinot Noir will be, Layla also produces a Malbec that is very good, with a pronounced nose of black fruit and wet leaves, which give way to raspberry and earth on the palate (also $14.00). 

Efrat Israeli Series Merlot 2007, Israel $12.00 (Meshuval)
Established in 1967, Efrat has been producing wine for over 40 years. It has aromas of cherry and a cola note. This dry wine has medium+ acidity and medium tannins. It displays notes of cherry, cola, and oak, followed by a hint of spice in the long finish.

Grand Cru Grapevine: A River Runs Through It (March 2009)

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With the excessively snow-filled season, I think most of us are ready for winter to be over. Accordingly, March’s arrival and its hints at Spring, which is yet to come, is most welcome. However, despite the bad weather, February found Grand Cru Classes keeping busy with media appearances and teaching opportunities.

In concert with Valentine’s Day, Tracy “appeared” on Big Blend magazine’s Champagne Sundays radio show in early February to talk about Sex, Wine & Chocolate. If you missed this broadcast, you can hear the interview online. She will be penning a new column for Big Blend magazine – Words of Winedom – under the title of Grand Cru Guru and will be periodically featured on their radio shows. Her next “appearance” will be April 27 at 3:30 PM EST on Eat, Drink & Be Merry on the topic of wines to accompany burgers & BBQ.

Also, while not wine related, both Tracy and Jared taped a segment for the Tyra Banks Show, which should air later this month.

Of course, live appearances included our Long Island wines class at City Winery, held on February 26. We are grateful to: Comtesse de Therese, Macari Vineyards, Martha Clara Vineyards, Peconic Bay Winery, Waters Crest and Wölffer Estate for their generosity and support in making this event a success!

Looking ahead, Sex, Wine & Chocolate returns to New York on March 19. Women only are invited to please join us at 7:00 PM for an evening of sensuality and decadence. Please see our website to sign up or see more details.

In addition, Tracy’s Great Grapes! series at New York University’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies begins March 24 at 6:30. As a reminder, registration is through NYU only.

And, for your drinking pleasure at home, this month we turn our attention to the wine regions scattered along the Loire River, which should delight your palate as well as your pocketbook.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick

COO: Cork Opening Officer

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

The Loire River is the longest navigable river in France, covering a distance of 629 miles and stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the center of France before heading south. Here, in the land of castles and Kings, French royalty would spend their summers in the countryside away from the hustle and bustle of Parisian city life, a precursor to the Hamptons summer season. From West to East, there are four wine areas within the greater Loire Valley region: Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine and Central Vineyards. With the vast distance covered, a diversity of climates, grapes and wines exist, making the river among the only threads that tie this large wine region together. However, despite their differences, most of these wines are quite food friendly and offer great value.

At the western coast, along the Atlantic Ocean, visitors find themselves in Nantes, where the Melon de Bourgogne grape is produced into Muscadet, a wine with dry, crisp acidity and citrus and mineral notes. The best wines hail from Sevre-et-Maine and are labeled as such. In addition, wines labeled “sur lie” are those which have sat on the lees (spent yeast cells) for at least six months, which imparts a yeastiness, and are generally richer and fuller-bodied. Muscadets pair beautifully with the shellfish which abound in the port, especially oysters and mussels.

Moving inland and east, the climate changes as do the grape varieties. In Anjou-Saumur, we find Chenin Blanc, which has versatility and then some, with the ability to produce outstanding wines in nearly all styles – dry, sweet, still, sparkling, youthful and aged. Dry whites include Savennieres (which is particularly age worthy) while Coteaux du Layon, Quarts de Chaume and Bonnezeaux are the product of grapes, which have been affected by noble rot, creating unctuous dessert wines. Sparkling wines from this area are made in both fully sparkling and petillant (1/2 pressure) styles. A profusion of rosés abound ranging from dry (Rosé de Loire) and slightly sweet (Cabernet d’Anjou and Cabernet de Saumur) to sweet (Rosé d’Anjou). In addition, some Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Gamay are grown here to produce dry, fruity light-bodied reds found under the appellations of AC Anjou, AC Saumur and AC Saumur-Champigny.

Further inland, Touraine sports a continental climate, with more extreme temperature variations from winter to summer. This is the largest area within the Loire, with a wide variety of wines produced. White wines range from the dry Sauvignon de Touraine and AC Touraine, both made from Sauvignon Blanc, to AC Vouvray, produced from 100% Chenin Blanc. As with the Chenin Blanc in Anjou-Saumur, Vouvrays may be dry, medium-sweet or sweet, and may be still or sparkling. The wine style may be designated on the label, i.e. sec (dry) or moelleux(sweet). High quality red wines, made from Cabernet Franc, tend to exhibit herbaceous and raspberry notes in AC Chinon, with similar, but fuller-bodied wines coming from AC Bourgeuil and AC St-Nicholas-de-Bourgeuil. Red wines labeled as AC Touraine are a blend of Gamay and Cabernet Franc.

At the furthest point east, the Central Vineyards serve as the heartland of Sauvignon Blanc, producing wines, which are more mineral and less fruit-forward than their New Zealand brethren, primarily due to the complex soils found here. Key appellations include: AC Sancerre, AC Pouilly Fume, AC Menetou-Salon, AC Quincy and AC Reuilly. With its reputation for high quality wines, Sancerre can become a little pricey, but these latter appellations are less well-known and are thus, generally less expensive. Produced in smaller quantities, red Sancerre is made from Pinot Noir, which makes sense given the region’s close proximity to Burgundy.

Tasting Notes

Bouvet Rosé Excellence Brut NV, Loire Valley, France, $13.00
This sparkling wine has a beautiful pale salmon color. Medium aromas of cotton candy, yeasty/leesy notes, floral/blossom and under-ripe strawberries. Dry with medium acidity and medium mousse, it has flavors of ripe strawberry, yeast and watermelon Jolly Rancher, along with its long length. 

Domaine Les Hautes Noëlles, Les Grange Muscadet sur lie, 2005, Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu, France, $10.00
A youthful wine with leesy aromas and notes of apple, citrus, it has medium+ acidity and medium body. The palate includes flavors of lime, yeast and minerality. 

Vincent Raimbault, Vouvray Sec 2004, Vouvray, France, $15.00
On the nose, the youthful aromas of apples, almond and lanolin linger, giving way to flavors of almond, apple and honey and crisp acidity on the palate.

Vincent Gaudry, Sancerre, Melodie de Vielles Vignes 2006 Sancerre, France $22.00
Produced from 50-year old vines, this wine has pronounced aromas of minerality, citrus and grapefruit. The medium+ acidity is joined by flavors of citrus and apple which persist on the palate, followed by a hint of stone in the finish.

Joguet Chinon Cuvee Terroir 2005 Touraine, France $18.00
The nose shows limited fruit notes of berries, oak and vanilla. In the mouth, it is dry, with ripe berry fruit, medium acidity, medium+ tannins, and herbal and woody notes in the finish.

Chateau de Fesle Bonnezeaux 2003, Anjou-Saumur, France, $63.00
This dessert wine provides developing aromas of apricot, orange peel, honey, floral and spice. It is medium sweet on the palate with medium+ acidity and pronounced flavors of apricot, honey, spice coupled by a nutty note underneath its long length.

My Life in Wine PR: A Delicious Day

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Last week, we held a press event to launch the Geyser Peak Block Collection, one of the wines that the company for whom I am working represents. Prior to the event, in my role as a PR Assistant, I had sent out the invitations, managed the guest list, coordinated wine shipments, drafted a press release and put together over 100 press kits.

Held at the fabulous Bouley Test Kitchen, attendees had the opportunity to hear from both the winemaker, Mick Schroeter, and David Bouley himself. The three wines in the Block Collection were paired with three dishes each, which represented the Bouley restaurant cuisines — French, Mediterranean and Asian. It was a lovely event and, after I had checked everyone in, given them a press kit and their nametag, I was able to take a seat and join in the tasting, albeit it a bit late.

The first pairing was with the Geyser Peak Block Collection River Ranches Sauvignon Blanc 2008. This is obviously the new vintage; so new in fact that we weren’t sure the winemaker was going to be happy with the final blend, bottling it only the week before the event.

With intense aromas of citrus, melon and lemon pith, the medium-bodied, dry wine provided lemon, pith and mineral on the palate, with long length. Joining this wine were the following three plates: porcini flan, dungeness crab with black truffle dashi; oil poached shrimp and diver scallops in an ocean herbal broth; and a kumamoto oyster with a plum wine jelly. Each one was equisite on its own and even more so with the wine.

Next up was the Water Bend Chardonnay 2007. I had originally thought that “water bend” referred to the block or vineyard from which the grapes had come, but rather, it is a special barrel process. During the construction process, the wood is soaked and then heated over a hotter fire than a traditional barrel process, which provides greater carmelization of the natural wood sugars. Yet, despite this approach, the wine itself was not overly oaked in aromas or flavors. Instead, aromas of apple, blossom, mineral, slight citrus and a hint of yeast, which yielded to a creamy and rich wine with peach, citrus and yeast flavors lingering on the palate. To complement the wine, Chef Bouley and his team prepared black sea bass in a vanilla infused saffron sauce; maine day boat lobster with celery root, peas, blood orange and pomegranate; and line-caught halibut with popped rice.

I did not get to taste the final wine, the Walking Tree Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, given my late arrival, but I will taste it on my own in the next few weeks. The Walking Tree vineyard is so named for an oak tree that gently creeped down the steep hillside of the 12 acre vineyard over a period of 2.5 years, until it finally reached the bottom and eventually met its demise. Trees aside, Mick described the wine as being a classic Alexander Valley Cabernet showing bright and youthful blackberry fruit, dark chocolate, pepper and spice. He further added that it was rich and voluptuous with fine-grained tannins and juiciness. It was served with organic Colorado rack of lamb with a rosemary crust and zucchini-mint puree; Long Island duckling with a Balinese pepper crust, white truffle honey and a verjus, ginger dressing; and rack of veal with heart of palm and Japanese egg.

An additional two wines were poured from the Geyser Peak Reserve series — the Alexandre Meritage 2004 and Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. The Bordeaux blend provided aromas of blackberry, herbal notes and pepper, which continued on the palate as bright, lush fruit with long length. The Reserve Cab was meaty with black raspberry, chocolate and mint/euclyptus notes. These wines were served with a cheese course, which consisted of cow cheeses, which match better with reds, while goat cheeses pair well with white wines. Also on the cheese plate was a d’Agen prune, which I really enjoyed even though I was convinced that I didn’t like prunes. As David explained, these special prunes originate in the Dordogne region in France and are soaked in Armagnac, with the prunes stuffed with pureed prune.

As if that wasn’t enough, an onslaught of desserts, petit fours and other delectables followed. Moreover, guests were sent home with a tea cake and a bottle of the Walking Tree Cabernet Sauvignon. An embarrassment of riches to say the least.

The entire afternoon appeared to be well appreciated by the attendees. One guest went so far to say that if he were to die on his way home, he should die happy as it was the best meal he had ever eaten. He further stated that it was better than sex. All in all, it was a great event and I enjoyed the opportunity to not only attend, but also to participate in some of the preparations.

Grand Cru Grapevine: It’s All Greek to Me (January 2009)

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Welcome to 2009! A new year always heralds the start of something big and for Grand Cru Classes, 2009 is no exception. This month we launch our recently revamped website and newsletter. Our website URL remains the same (www.GrandCruClasses.com), but the new site is much improved and finally completes our rebrand to the beautiful logo designed by May Matta-Aliah of Red Dot Solutions. 

As we bid goodbye to 2008, we began our partnership with Judith Steinhart and introduced our Sex, Wine & Chocolate event, which was a huge success for this first effort. We welcomed 20 participants to the inaugural presentation and were delighted to feature Alexander Valley Vineyards’ aptly named Temptation Zin (Zinfandel); Banfi Vintners’ beautifully-hued sparkler, Rosa Regale; and Godiva Chocolatier’s decadent chocolates and truffles (with special thank yous to Andrew Feigelman, Sharon McCarthy and Traci Schiffer, respectively, for their gracious support of this event). No specific plans have as yet been made, but we do plan to reprise this event in the future and have even received an inquiry to bring the event to Washington, D.C. We also thank the attendees for their candid and thoughtful feedback, which will certainly be useful as we improve future presentations of this fun and festive event. There’s a synopsis of the event on Tracy’s blog. 

Other year-end festivities included the comedy debut of our own Tracy Ellen Kamens, who killed (in comedy, that’s a good thing) at her graduation show and was invited to participate in a New Talent Showcase at Comix on Tuesday, February 3 at 7:00 PM. (Call 212-524-2500 and mention Tracy’s name or book online.) 

Tracy’s other accomplishments include her induction into the Wine Media Guild and receipt of the Greek Wine Ambassador title and certification from Wines of Greece. In this vein, we turn this month’s attention to just that…wines from Greece. 

Drink wisely and well, 

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer 

IT’S ALL GREEK TO ME
Last May, I had the wonderful opportunity to attend a seminar hosted by Wines from Greece. The illustrious panel included Steven Olsen (aka Wine Geek), Doug Frost, MW, MS (author and consultant); Roger Daghorn (sommelier from Chanterelle restaurant); Tara Thomas (journalist and author); Michael Weiss (Director of Wine Studies at the Culinary Institute of America) and Sophia Perpera (oenologist and founder, All About Greek Wine). 

While Greek wines haven’t made big headlines in recent years, Greece has a long vinous history dating back 4,000 years and is actually considered to be the birthplace of food and wine as a culture. Among its more well-known wine exports is Retsina, which owes its unique flavor to its infusion with pine resin. While not most people’s preference, traditionally, this process actually served a purpose, acting as a preservative and preventing oxidation long before the advent of refrigeration and other modern technology. Other additives, such as opiates, were also common in ancient Greece, which gave rise to those bacchanalian parties. As further evidence of its forward thinking, Greece also pioneered the concept of using specific vessels for specific wines long before Riedel crafted his first crystal stemware. Moreover, antique amphorae also sported the first wine labels, with seals indicating the vintner, vintage, etc 

But, it wasn’t until more modern history that Greece has once again become a world class producer of wine. Previously, wines were high in alcohol, low in acidity and prone to oxidation due in part to poor winemaking, high yields and over-oaking. Conversely, today, Greek wines are clean and fresh, with balanced structure and acidity and are quite food friendly. Combining Old World tradition with New World technology, many producers are using indigenous grapes grown at low yields and applying new technologies such as refrigeration to produce high quality wines. 

Geographically, Greece resembles an outstretched hand, reaching into the water. Located within the Mediterranean Sea, Greece is a country primarily made up of volcanic islands and qualifying as the third most mountainous country in Europe. Not surprisingly, this is a country whose vineyards are made up of small plots of land with ancient soils, in isolated areas and at high elevations (among the highest in the world, second only to Argentina). Given its maritime location, it has a Mediterranean climate, with a heavy influence from the sea. In fact, low rainfall plagues most of Greece, with moisture coming from fog instead. 

Home to over 300 indigenous grapes that have been catalogued, Greece provides great diversity and originality in its wines. Yes, you can find the usual suspects – Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – but more importantly, and more significantly, are grapes such as Roditis, Assyrtiko, Agiorghitiko and Xinomavro. 

Amidst the Aegean Islands, Santorini seems like an unlikely place for wine production. Here, soils are a mix of volcanic and minced rock while the climate is extremely dry and windy, so much so that vines must be trained low to the ground in a circular pattern, resembling a woven basket. Yet despite this inhospitable climate, Assyrtiko thrives, producing wines with vibrant acidity and minerality that develop a beautiful richness over time. Among other whites, Athiri grapes are grown in Rhodes and Santorini, providing wines with low acidity, good weight and high aromatics. Roditis is the grape best known for the wines from Patras, which are elegant, light white wines, displaying notes of citrus flavors. 

Red grape star Agiorgitiko provides dark color and soft tannins and results in wines with a roundness and balance similar to Pinot Noir. Found in Nemea (the largest red wine appellation in Greece), on the Peleponnese, these wines can be aged and have nice acidity and good aromatics. Another well-respected red variety is Xinomavro, which loosely translates as sour black. This grape is grown in Naoussa within the region of Macedonia, and is responsible in part for the blend in Rapsani on Mount Olympus. 

Greece is also known for its dessert wines. Mavrodaphne grapes are generally used to produce sweet, fortified wines that are similar in style to ruby Ports. Other sweet Greek wines include Muscats of Samos as well as those from Rion and Patras, with notes of apricot, honey, orange peel and spice. 

The wine renaissance taking place in modern Greece is long overdue, but well worth the wait. And, just in time, too, as Greek food has become an important trend in Metropolitan restaurants. In fact, according to Olsen, New York Magazine declared that “octopus is the new calamari.” But, regardless of what you order, Greek wines are food friendly wines that can pair easily with a wealth of cuisines. And, with your newly acquired knowledge, reviewing a list of Greek wines should no longer have you saying, “It’s all Greek to me.” 

Tasting Notes

 

 

Emery, Athiri, VDQS Rhodes, 2007, Rhodes, Greece, $14.00
A whitewine with intense aromatics of citrus, peach and slight mineral notes, the palate is dry with medium acidity and flavors of citrus, an herbal undercurrent and some floral notes.  

Tselepos, Mantinia VDQS, 2007, Mantinia/Peloponnese, Greece, $17.00
From the Moschofilero grape, floral, spice, peach and pear notes are immediately evident in this highly aromatic wine. On the palate, it has high acidity and long length, which harmonize with the wine’s complex flavors of strawberry, nectarine, jasmine and ginger, making it extremely versatile for food matching.  

Sigalas, Santorini VDQS, 2007, Santorini/Aegean Islands, Greece, $19.00
Produced from Assyrtiko grapes, this wine has herbal and citrus aromas on the nose. It is dry, with medium acidity, and good concentrated fruit flavors of peach and herbs, culminating in a long length. 

Gaia Estate, Nemea VDQS, 2005, Nemea/Peloponnese, Greece, $35.00
Aromas of black fruit, cherry, spice and wood greet the nose. This dry and well structured red wine, made from Agiorghitiko grapes, has medium acidity with a medium+ body and ripe tannins. Fruit-forward, explosive flavors of wood, blackberry, spice and oak persist on the palate.  

Boutari, Grande Reserve, Naoussa VDQS, 2001, Naoussa/Macedonia, Greece, $22.00
Produced from the Xinomavro grape, this is a very aromatic red wine, with notes of black cherry, herbal, dried fruits and tar that echo on the palate. Dry and full bodied, it has grippy, but ripe tannins with bright acidity and long length. Rich and complex with black olives, dried tomatoes and concentrated fruit, the wine is still young and could use some additional age. It would pair well with gamey meat and hard cheeses.

Smythson of Bond St – Wine Memoranda: Best Gift I am Sorry to Use Up

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For my birthday last month, my sister presented me with a small bag from the esteemed leather goods store, Smythson of Bond Street. Upon opening the package, I discoverd a pocket-sized folio for taking wine notes — a wine lover’s dream.

The sleek, black book is imprinted with Wine Memoranda in gold lettering on the cover and is elegant enough to use at high end tastings, dinners and winery visits.

I christened the book on a recent trip to Sonoma, where I visited 16 wineries. While familiar with Smythson in name only prior to its receipt, I quickly became a devoted fan of its featherweight paper and binding. Part of its Panama line, this copyrighted paper makes the book very lightweight and easy to use. The pre-printed categories work well for both novices and wine professionals, with headings for wine name, vintage, grower, country/region, price, recommendation, remarks and tasting date. The remarks section provides ample room for notes on aromas, flavors and structure, regardless of one’s preferred method or format. In addition, the book is divided into three sections — White, Red & Other — providing some categorization of one’s notes.

However, with an average of five wines tasted at each winery and some as many as nine, the pages quickly began to fill and I feared that I would use up all of the space before the trip was completed. Accordingly, I began to be more frugal with the wines I chose to write up and listed several similar wines (i.e. 4 single-vineyard Pinot Noirs) from the same winery on a single page.

My Other section is completely blank because I did not taste any roses on this trip. Perhaps I could have used it for fortified and/or sparkling wines as well, but too late now.

While I do indeed have remaining space, I am sorry it is so limited as I envisioned being able to keep the book in my purse at all times to use it for wine notes at restaurants, wine shops, etc. I still can, of course, but my time with the book will come to an end all too soon and at $75.00 (or more?) I am loathe to replace it myself.

However, with the holidays coming up, if you have an oenophile on your gift list, this is a perfect present and with 64 pages, most (non-wine industry) people probably won’t use it up quite so quickly.