Category Archives: Wine

Moscato by twos

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As one of the oldest grape varieties, Muscat (alternately known as Moscato) continues to be among the top grapes produced worldwide. Most recently, it has become increasingly popular in the U.S. market. While more known for its sweeter styles of wine, this variety can also be used to make dry wines. However, off-dry styles seem to dominate. And, with their lower alcohol levels, these are wines that will keep your head clear after a second glass.

As evidence of its popularity around the globe, such wines hail from Italy, California and even Brazil. And, they frequently come in pairs – with a white and pink version available — and may be still or sparkling.

Vinicola Aurora Carnaval Moscato White Espumante NV, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $13.00
A Charmat Method sparkling wine produced from Moscato Bianco and Moscato Giallo grapes, this wine offers up floral and peach aromas. On the palate, it is off-dry, nicely balanced by acidity, with white flowers and juicy, ripe peach flavors; simple, but balanced and refreshing.

Vinicola Aurora Carnaval Moscato Pink Espumante NV, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $13.00
From the same producer and grape variety, this wine is produced similarly to the Moscato White, but it is medium salmon in color with red flowers and red fruit. Strawberry and cherry flavors co-mingle on the off-dry palate, which is slightly sweeter than the Moscato White, yet finishes very cleanly.

Martin Weyrich Moscato Allegro 2011, California, $12.00
Produced from 100% Muscat Canelli, this is a still wine, but with a very slight effervescence perceptible in the glass and on the palate. Floral aromas greet the nose, joined by anise, sage and pear. The off-dry palate has medium+ acidity, with floral, pear, sage and slight anise/spice notes. Despite the noticeable sweetness, it finishes quite cleanly.

Martin Weyrich Pink Moscato Allegro 2011, California, $12.00
This wine is also a product of the Muscat Canelli grape, but “with just a kiss of red wine” giving it its pale pink hue. It has aromas of floral, berries and melon on the nose. Its slightly off-dry palate is less sweet than its white counterpart with slight spice, herbal and anise notes.

 

HandCraft wines over-deliver and warm the heart

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An invitation to meet with Cheryl Indelicato and taste her new wines came with the opportunity to suggest a restaurant. I recommended Eolo, an Italian restaurant inspired by the owner’s summers spent at her grandparents’ home in Sicily, not knowing that Cheryl’s own grandparents had emigrated to the U.S. from this same island. Some may call it kismet. In the end, I just called it yummy.

Cheryl’s new line of wines, which is part of the Delicato Family Vineyards brand, is called HandCraft. As proprietor of the brand, Cheryl has been collaborating with winemaker Alicia Ysais since 2010 to literally handcraft wines that bring together a California pedigree, her Italian heritage and a fruit-forward style. Thus, each wine marries typical grape varieties such as Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with Italian varieties such as Malvasia and Sangiovese, all of which are sourced from California.

In keeping with wines’ approachable style and food-friendly focus, the labels feature beautiful illustrations of fruit and other flavors found in the respective wine bottle. Additionally, in keeping with Cheryl’s desire to give back to the community, she launched HandCraft Cares, which offers healthy lifestyle tips, recipes and supports various causes near and dear to Cheryl’s heart such as the $100,000 raised in 2012 for breast cancer research, prevention and awareness. This dedication spills over to her team, which has also participating in walk-a-thons and other charitable events.

I probably should have asked Cheryl a lot of detailed questions about her wines, but in reality, it was much more fun to simply sit back and get to know Cheryl, Holly, Pat and Karen, personally, instead of professionally, over some lovely glasses of wine and delicious food. In fact, these are precisely the type of wines with which to do so – these are honest, gulp-able wines that don’t require pomp and circumstance, just an empty glass and an open heart. Moreover, at $13.00 a bottle they under-promise and over-deliver.

HandCraft Chardonnay 2011, California, USA
The Chardonnay, blended with “a dash of Malvasia Bianca” is rich and buttery with peach and pear aromas and flavors. Its full body was opulent and giving.

HandCraft Pinot Noir 2010, California USA
Blended with Sangiovese, the Pinot Noir is very fruity, but varietally correct. It has cherry and herbal notes with bright acidity and low tannins.

HandCraft Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, California USA
Like the Pinot Noir, the Cabernet is also joined by Sangiovese, which seems to be more evident in this wine with a slight tomato leaf character on the palate. Lush blackberry fruit dominates, with medium tannins and full body.

HandCraft Petite Sirah 2011, California USA
Sourced from Lodi, the Petite Sirah grapes are blended with Zinfandel, which is an almost identical variety to southern Italy’s Primitivo grape. The wine is smoky with cocoa notes and rich, ripe black fruit.

Label image courtesy of Delicato Family Vineyards.

All Dried Up: The Wines of Mister Amarone

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Image courtesy of Masi Agricola.

Some people might address Masi Agricola’s president as Signor Boscaini, but a recent book profiling the well-known Venetian wine producer refers to him as “Mister Amarone.” A leader in the Amarone denomination, it is likely that Sandro appreciates the moniker, having tirelessly worked to improve the quality of this wine since the 1950s.

Of course, some might even say that the man is all dried up. Well, not him exactly, but most of his grapes. While the process of drying grapes is de rigor for Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, this practice is found in few other places, but Masi’s president has exported the technique both far and near. In fact, many of his wines feature a special logo, Appaxximento, Masi Expertise® coupled with Sandro’s signature, further emphasizing the winery’s commitment to this wine production style.

Boscaini’s initial efforts focused on maintaining the concentration for which Amarone has always been known, while losing the oxidized character. In this regard, he aimed to preserve Venetian tradition, while improving the wine’s quality, introducing new yeast strains that could work at higher alcohol levels and adjusting the fermentation period from 60 days to 45 days. In the 1950s, fermentations often took as long as 18 months. As a result, today’s wines are much fresher than their predecessors.

But despite technological embraces, other aspects of production remain quite traditional such as the use of wood mats on which to dry the Amarone-bound grapes. For this purpose, Masi prefers bamboo, the spherical surface of which reduces the contact between the mats and the grape skins and ensures good air flow. Whereas some producers have shifted away from this traditional approach

This delicate balance between tradition and modern practices further comes into play when controlling the environment in the drying facilities. When possible, the room’s temperature and humidity are regulated naturally, with vents opened and closed to create the ideal conditions for drying. However, when necessary, a computer takes over to provide the ideal climatic parameters. Designed by the Masi Technical Group in the 1990s, this complex system is referred to as NASA (Natural Appassimento Super Assisted).

In neighboring Friuli, Boscaini has brought the appassimento procedure to bear on the Verduzzo grape. Harvested rather late to achieve full ripeness, the grapes are then dried on racks for three weeks to concentrate the fruit and permit evaporation of the water content. These raisined grapes are fermented  on their own before being briefly aged in barriques. They are then blended with Pinot Grigio, which has been picked much earlier to retain its acidity and fermented in stainless steel. When brought together, the result is Masianco, a complex wine with full body, depth and richness.

Conversely, the appassimento process is eschewed when producing Bonacosta, a Valpolicella Classico DOC made from Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Intended to be a fruity, young red wine, the simple production process, using non-dried grapes, retains this freshness.

Building in complexity among their Venetian reds, is Masi’s Campofiorin. Initially created in 1964, this wine had previously been called a ripasso, but Boscaini feels that this term has become corrupted and opts instead to label it as a Rosso del Veronese IGT and refers to it instead as a Supervenetian.  Instead of conducting a more common technique of using the wine equivalent of an old tea bag, Masi dries grapes specifically for inclusion in the Campfiorin. Regardless of its name or label, the wine falls somewhere in between the fruity character of the Bonacosta and the big, Baroque style of an Amarone.

Masi also produces several different Amarone wines, including its entry-level, Costasera and Costaserva Riserva, as well as several different single-vineyard wines. However, the single-vineyard wines are only produced in excellent vintages, when conditions are right not only during harvest, but also once the grapes have been picked.

Farther afield, Boscaini’s imprint can be found in Argentina, where Masi launched a partnership with Norton in 1995. Here, Corvina grapes receive the same royal, dried-grape treatment and are then blended with Malbec. Appropriately named Passo Doble, this is a decidedly unusual and modern wine.  All dried up? Maybe. But, all washed up? Never! Mister Amarone strikes again!

Grand Cru Grapevine: ‘Tis the Season to Think Pink (April 2013)

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Image courtesy of the CIVP


With indictments accusing Puxatawny Phil of fraud being filed across the country, it’s clear that everyone is ready for spring. Whether it’s cabin fever, a thorough dislike of cold weather and snow or simply a desire to wear short-sleeves and sandals, the lure of warmer weather tantalizes us all. And, small, but simple, signs – sightings of ramps and fiddlehead ferns at the market, robins heard overhead or crocuses blooming on the lawn – provide a glimmer of hope that perhaps spring has finally arrived.

Although Alfred Lord Tennyson noted that “In the spring, a young man’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love,” a wine lover’s fancy might turn to thoughts of lighter wines, with the many shades of rosé serving as a further reminder of the change of seasons, a pink lining to the dark cloud that has been winter. Thus, we happily turn our attention to the rosés of Provence this month.

We hope that you will feel lighter in your heart with a spring in your step as we usher in this time of renewal and collectively “think pink.”

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

 

‘Tis the Season to Think Pink

Admittedly, rose-hued wines can be enjoyed all year round, but the palest blush of these pink wines heralded the near arrival of spring in New York as producers from Provence strutted their wines for press and trade in early March. Moreover, the message was made clear – thinking pink is no longer a fad. With nine years of growth in the U.S. market, rosé is one of the U.S.’s fastest growing wine categories in retail sales. While rosé wines hail from all over the wine world,  France is the number one producer of rosé wine worldwide and Provence accounts for forty percent of all the French quality-level rosé wine production. In fact, the majority of Provence’s production (nearly 88 percent) is allocated to making rosé wines.

Blessed with near perfect, Mediterranean climate conditions, Provence prides itself on being the birthplace of all French wine. In fact, winemaking in the region dates to 600 BCE, representing a total of twenty-six centuries of wine production in France. Although the regional area is the IGP de Méditerranée, most Provencal wine is produced at the AOC-level with lovely dry rosés made principally from Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsaut. Tibouren, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon also complement these blends.

The 65,000 acres dedicated to rosé production are centered in three appellations: Côtes de Provence, which has three sub-appellations, and is the largest at 73 percent of overall production; Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, which comprises an additional 17 percent of production; and Coteaux Varois en Provence, which accounts for the remaining 10 percent.

Almost all of these wines are produced using temperature-controlled, stainless steel fermentation with an emphasis on maintaining vibrant acidity and fresh fruit aromas and flavors. These dry style rosés are exceptionally food-friendly, pairing well with a broad range of cuisines as well as being easily enjoyed on its own.

 

Les Vins Bréban L’Opale de la Presqu’ile de Saint Tropez 2012, Côtes de Provence, France, $14.00 This wine brings together 50% Grenache, 30% Carignan and 20% Cinsault. It was meatier and fleshier than some of the other wines I sampled that day with berry and peach notes. Nicely structured with slight grip and a hint of citrus pith, the wine has long length.

Mas de Cadenet Arbaude Rose 2012, Côtes de Provence, France, $15.00 Established by the Négrel family, Mas de Cadenet celebrates its 200th anniversary this year, with the 7th generation now at the helm. The family’s estate, named for a shrub in the juniper family, is situated near Aix-en-Provence. The Arbaude cuvée is a blend of 70% Syrah, 15% Carignan and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and displays fleshy, melon aromas and flavors with vibrant acidity, slight citrus pith and minerality on the elegant palate.

Maison Saint Aix AIX 2012, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, France, $20.00 With its very attractive, graphic label, this wine caught my eye across the room. After tasting it, it won over my palate as well. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Counoise, this wine offers up fresh, ripe berry fruit character on both the nose and palate. A slight minerality is evident on the palate, culminating in long length.

Château Coussin 2012, Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire, France, $25.00 Produced by the Sumerire family, which traces its heritage in the area back to the 13th century, this wine is a blend of Grenache (70%), Cinsault (20%) and Syrah (10%). It has a beautifully floral nose with delicate fruit on the palate, which is joined by a hint of minerality in the finish. I also had the opportunity to taste the 2011 vintage of this wine, which showed some complexity in its year of development with darker fruit character than the 2012.

Château d’Esclans 2012, Côtes de Provence, France, $35.00 Well-known for its Whispering Angel rosé, Caves d’Esclans produces several other rosé wines including this one, which is a blend of Grenache, Rolle, Syrah, Tibouren and Cinsault. With some of the wine spending time in neutral oak barrels and undergoing bâtonnage (lees stirring), this wine takes on some complexity and structure, but still displays hallmark floral, melon and berry aromas.

Through Rose-colored Glasses: Grand Cru Grapevine (Jan 2013)

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2012-12-05_14-20-58_380In keeping with an optimistic spirit, Rosé Champagne is the perfect wine to kick off the new year! As Ed McCarthy exclaimed at the Wine Media Guild’s annual Champagne luncheon in December, “Rosé Champagne is ‘in’!” Its success has been a bit surprising to everyone, including the Champenois, given that Rosé Champagne was considered an afterthought only 12 years ago. Now, it makes up 8% of the market and is on the rise. This continued trajectory is equally surprising considering that it is more expensive than regular (non-rosé) Champagne. But, it is also more intensive and, at least according to Ed, “Everybody loves it!” Whether this latter statement is fact or hyperbole, what is true is that Rosé Champagne has a fuller body than regular Champagne, due to the increased ratio of Pinot Noir grapes and is extremely food friendly.

As Champagne, Rosé Champagnes are produced using the Méthode Champenoise, referred to as the Traditional Method for similar wines produced elsewhere. These wines spend considerable time aging in contact with dead yeast cells that give the wines their yeasty, leesy, bready aromas and flavors. In addition, Rosé Champagnes also have fruitier aromas and flavors that are derived from the heavier reliance on Pinot Noir and the deliberate creation of color. While Pinot Noir is a component of most Champagnes —the obvious exception being the blanc de blancs (white from whites) style—Champagne producers are careful to avoid extracting color from the grapes’ skins. However, when creating a Rosé Champagne, the focus shifts and some color attainment is permitted. Such color may be produced through the saignée method (as is often used for still rosé wines), or by creating a cuvée that includes red wine in the blend to produce a pinkish base wine. However, red wine may be blended in at the end with the dosage instead to avoid potential browning during the lees aging period. Regardless of when it occurs, sparkling wine production is the only time that adding red wine to a white wine is acceptable in creating a rosé-style wine.

The wines featured in this month’s newsletter are some of my favorites from the December lunch at which we tasted a total of 15 wines. As noted, these are pricey wines, but, thankfully, many of my preferred wines were on the lower end of the spectrum.

TASTING NOTES

Ayala Brut Rosé NV, $48-54.00
We’ve featured Ayala, the sister brand of Bollinger, before, but as it is always continues to perform well in comparative tastings it is worth featuring again. With rich fruit aromas of floral and ripe strawberry and slight yeasty notes, this wine was elegant on the palate with a delicate mousse.

Alfred Gratien Brut Rosé NV, $62-75.00
At the luncheon, Ed noted that he was very impressed with this wine, as was I. It displayed a very yeasty character on the nose with melon aromas and flavors. It was dry with very high acidity, finishing quite cleanly on the palate.

Bruno Paillard Brut Rosé Premier Cuvée NV, $70-75.00
As a rosé, this wine is very pale, dislaying an onion skin color. On the nose, it has yeast, slight floral and strawberry aromas, similar to, but more subtle than those found on the Ayala. Its palate was very pretty with extremely dry palate, high acidity and floral and strawberry flavors.

Henriot Brut Rosé NV, $58-62.00
Henriot has a long history as a Champagne house, but has been less known in the U.S. Offering a light and elegant style, this wine has raspberry, yeasty and slight toast aromas giving way to riper fruit on the front palate, with the toasty notes lingering in the finish.

Moët & Chandon Brut Rosé 2002, $80.00
From the highly regarded 2002 vintage, this is a big, yet austere wine that still needs some time to evolve to truly shine, although it was showing beautifully already. Toast and biscuit aromas dominate the nose, along with a slightly oxidative note. The dry palate is lean with yeast, toast and fresh berry flavors.

Perrier-Jouët Cuvée Belle Epoque Rosé 2004, $300.00
Admittedly a big splurge, this is a wine I frequently drawn to even in blind tastings and, in Ed’s words, it is the “epitome of elegance,” likely due to high proportion of Chardonnay. Yeast and strawberries greet the nose and persist on the dry palate where they are rich and concentrated, culminating in long length.

The case of/for German Rieslings

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Our Thanksgiving dinner table overflowed with bounty; weighed down with more food than we possibly needed, we were also truly blessed by the family and friends who sat around it. With the diversity of deliciousness that lay before us, I felt that Riesling – and especially German Riesling – would be the perfect accompaniment to our meal.

Due to Riesling’s generally high acidity and wide range of styles from bone dry to lusciously sweet, it is extremely versatile at the table. Consequently, I decided it would be fun to open up not just one or two Riesling to pair with our Thanksgiving dinner this year, but ten different bottles. So it was that I found myself staring down ten, numbered glasses an hour or so before the feast.

My husband did the honors of preparing the set-up and since neither of us was fully acquainted with these wines, we determined that the best approach was to line them up from highest alcohol (and presumably the driest) to lowest alcohol (and likely the sweetest). If we’d had any wines of Auslese-level or higher this wouldn’t have worked quite as well, but since our selection included Kabinett and Spatlese only, we felt it was reasonably safe way to proceed. And, to our pleasant surprise, there were only two tweaks I felt were needed when I actually sat down to taste the samples.

Of further interest, the wines in question ranged in price from a low of $11.00 to a high of $67.00, with an average of $30.00/bottle. This price divergence was the primary impetus for tasting the wines blind, but, of course, removing all preconceived notions (not just that of price) enabled a more unbiased evaluation.

Unfortunately, the size of our dining table, already encumbered with multiple platters of food, didn’t permit us to have all ten bottles of wine on hand. However, we did bring two bottles to the table at a time and let guests fill their glasses as they preferred, replacing empty bottles as necessary.

Interestingly, while well-liked and well-regarded, the most expensive wine wasn’t the immediate favorite and didn’t necessarily stand out among the “crowd.” Additionally, the sweeter, but balanced, styles were more preferred than the drier ones.

The wines are listed in the order in which they were tasted:

1. Kesselstatt Josephshofer Riesling GG 2010, Mosel, Germany, $67.00
Pronounced nose with honey, tropical fruit, lychee; Dry with high acidity, citrus, spice and zest; extremely long length. Well structured and balanced; lean and nervy with some complexity.

2. Baron K Riesling Kabinett 2011, Rheingau, Germany, $18.00
Floral, lime and lime zest aromas; Off-dry with citrus, peach and floral on the palate; medium+ to long length. Well made and classic.

3. Undone Dry Riesling 2011, Rheinhessen, Germany, $11.00
Slight petrol notes, floral and nectarine; bone dry with medium+ acidity; citrus, pith, mineral and some nectarine.

4. Johannishof Charta Riesling 2011, Rheingau, Germany, $25.00
Slight spice with citrus and citrus peel, some floral aromas; Dry with high acidity, peach, citrus, petrol and honey; Angular with good complexity.

5. Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Kabinett 2011, Mosel, Germany, $24.00
Quince, lychee, petrol and minerality; Off-dry almost medium sweet, with peach, tropical fruit and mineral; Rich and tropical.

6. Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Kabinett 2010, Mosel, Germany, $27.00
Limited nose with petrol and citrus, but opening up on the off-dry palate with citrus, petrol, spice and honey, culminating in long length; One of my favorites.

7. Schloss Saarstein Riesling Spatlese 2011, Mosel, Germany, $38.00
Citrus, citrus zest, floral and a hint of minerality; Off-dry, but on the sweeter side of off-dry, citrus, floral and mineral.

8. Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Spatlese 2010, Mosel, Germany, $38.00
Quince, spice, honey; Off-dry with spice, honey and quince; Exotic and luscious.

9. Graff Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese 2011, Mosel, Germany, $17.00
Shy nose displaying floral and peach notes; Medium-sweet palate with floral, peach and pineapple; Balanced by the acidity despite the sweetness level.

10. Graff Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese 2010, Mosel, Germany, $17.00
Petrol and floral aromas; Off-dry with rich quince, honey, floral, petrol, citrus zest and very long length; Nicely balanced and complex.

 

Of course, ten wines was more than enough for our party of five, but should you wish to make a full case of it, here are two more wines to add to your list (tasted on separate occasions):

11. Liebfrauenstift Dry Riesling 2011, Rheinhessen, Germany, $19.00
Structured, dry, fresh, ripe lime and peach, mineral. Long length; Fabulous!

12. Baron zu Knyphausen Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Erste Lage 2009, Rheingau, Germany, $57.00
Displaying floral, citrus and tangerine aromas on the nose, the dry palate offered piercing acidity with rich, ripe flavors of peach, tangerine, citrus pith, lime zest, floral and minerality, finishing with a very long length. Truly amazing.

Grand Cru Grapevine: California Wines with a French Pedigree (December 2012)

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Frenchman Bernard Portet first visited California on a fact-finding mission back in the late 1960s and then returned in 1971 to help launch Clos du Val. After a few months in the Napa Valley, he suggested that his wife come join him as he expected to stay longer than originally planned – perhaps through harvest 1972. Thankfully, she accepted the invitation since he never left, serving not only as co-founder, but also as the company’s full-time winemaker for nearly 40 years. And, for almost four decades, Bernard helped to establish Clos du Val as a highly regarded name in the wine industry.

As the ninth generation of his family to be in the wine business, Bernard brought a lot of knowledge with him from France, which he applied to his new venture. For example, at the time, there was no concept of terroir. Winery managers, not winemakers, bought grapes from a myriad of growers, a practice which has significantly changed. But, Bernard recognized the unique qualities of the Stag’s Leap District prompting him and his partner, John Goelet, to purchase 178 acres and plant the estate’s first vineyards.

Also of note, while most California producers were focused on single variety wines – Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot – the Bordeaux-bred Bernard saw the benefit of blends. Consequently, the wine he produced was a combination of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, creating, in Bernard’s words, “a more complete wine.”

Almost immediately, Clos du Val’s quality was recognized. Chosen by Steven Spurrier as one of six California Cabernet Sauvignons to be included in the 1976 Judgment of Paris, the wine placed eighth overall. Ten years later, it took the top place in the French Culinary Institute Wine Tasting, a rematch of the original event. European in style, Clos du Val was quickly embraced by the east coast as one of the first California wines to be sold there.

But, in 2009, Bernard decided it was to retire and said good bye to the venerable brand he helped to create. But, as with Bernard’s previous best laid plans, somehow retirement didn’t stick. Today, Bernard is at the helm of another new venture – Heritance Wines. The moniker – a merger of “heritage” and “inheritance” – is Bernard’s way of conveying his sense of gratitude and all that he learned from his father and forefathers.

The year 2012 marked Bernard’s fortieth vintage in the Napa Valley and, not surprisingly, a lot has happened in forty years. But, while Heritance’s wines differ from those of Clos du Val, Bernard brings his same winemaking philosophy to this project. Although, at a recent lunch, when asked for specific pairing suggestions on what would go well with his wines, he replied, “Good company,” it is clear that he “…want[s] to make wine that goes well with food.” Toward this goal, Bernard blends across lots and grape varieties to arrive at the finished product. He adds that as the flavors of the food go away, the flavors of the wine should take over on the palate; wines with a soft entry and a fleshy element.

And, most importantly, the new wines truly reflect Bernard’s approach. Remaining steadfast to Bernard’s roots, Heritance, of course, produces a Cabernet Sauvignon. The tasting notes for the 2008 and 2010 are included below, but when both Cabernet wines were tasted alongside the inaugural Clos du Val (1972), the pedigree of the wines was unmistakable. While the aged wine understandably offered up the developed characteristics of a 40-year-old wine, its structural elements were clearly evident in the two modern-day wines. It was almost as if the 2008 and 2010 were looking in a mirror at their future selves – uncanny and especially heartwarming, as it gave us hope that these were wines that would age equally gracefully.

 

TASTING NOTES

Heritance Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Napa Valley, CA, $24.00
With 9% Semillon blended into the wine giving it a depth and roundness on the palate, the 2010 is decidedly Bordeaux in style. Melon, citrus and slight pith with medium+ acidity.

Heritance Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Napa Valley, CA, $24.00
For the cooler 2011 vintage, Bernard dispensed with the Semillon and, instead, blended in 12% Rousanne, providing more floral character and tropical fruit than the Sauvignon Blanc would have had on its own. High acid, citrus; nervy and more austere than the 2010.

Heritance Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir 2011, Carneros, CA, $45.00 (300 cases produced)
Bernard acknowledges that Pinot Noir can be pushed in the vineyard, almost to the point of becoming Grenache, so is cautious about harvest parameters when working with growers and carefully sources his fruit, blending lots when necessary. Cherries bursting out of the glass with a slight herbal character, which becomes more prominent when enjoyed with food.

Heritance Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa Valley, CA, $36.00
Blended with 8% Merlot, this wine was showing moderate acidity (it was a relatively warm year) and some development, with the primary black fruit aromas and flavors having faded a bit.

Heritance Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Napa Valley, CA, $36.00
The 2010 (a cooler year) includes 4% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, and displayed brighter acidity, smokey notes and lush blackberry fruit, but was extremely balanced despite its ripe character.

Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon 1972, Napa Valley, CA ($6.00 upon release in 1974) A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, this wine offered up beautiful complexity. Dried red and black fruit, balsamic and spice notes were joined by truffles, sage and a silkiness on the palate.

Celebrating the post-harvest season with Beaujolais Nouveau, Beaujolais Crus and Macari’s Early Wine

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Beaujolais Nouveau Day has come and gone. This annual semi-holiday celebrates the new release of a wine produced extremely quickly after harvest and I like it for that reason alone. Making wine is a lengthy process that starts not at harvest, but much earlier – from the first swell of buds on the vine. Accordingly, being able to literally taste the fruits of such labor only a few months post-harvest is a wonderful opportunity to rejoice.

While a variety of Nouveau events were held as usual this year, I only attended the Compagnons du Beaujolais Beaujolais Crus tasting. Equally festive, the Compagnons du Beaujolais had donned their official regalia, complete with tastevins hung around their necks, having ushered in the Nouveau wine earlier in the day.

But, now, it was time to taste the more serious Gamay. It was a pleasure to taste through the various crus (best village sites) including Brouilly, Julienas, Morgon and Fleurie as well as being able to compare different vintages –2009, 2010 and 2011. The wines showed quite nicely and I found a few that I particularly liked such as the Morgon Cuvée les Roches 2011 from Château du Chatelard, although I didn’t take any formal notes.

In a similar vein, there are a few other wineries that choose to produce a wine that hits the market soon after harvest. Macari Vineyards’ Early Wine falls into this category. Produced from 100% Chardonnay, the grapes for the 2012 vintage were picked on August 29 and quickly pressed and fermented with the wine finding its way into bottle on October 22. With its November 1 release, I received the wine about two weeks before Nouveau Day.

I chose to open my bottle on the day before the Nouveau celebrations (Beaujolais Nouveau Eve?) as a way to kick off the celebratory spirit of these wines. Showing pronounced floral, peach and tropical fruit notes, the wine was slightly off-dry with balanced acidity and flavors of pineapple, floral and a slight hint of spice. Despite its fall arrival, the Early Wine can be enjoyed year round, especially during the summer (if there’s any left by then – only 422 cases were made).

Domaines Paul Mas: Frogs, ponds and wines that overdeliver

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Having visited the southwest of France, I can attest that living in the Languedoc is lovely, but it’s certainly not London or Paris. Thus, it’s not surprising that members of the younger generation would want to leave the family farm and head to the big city. You might say that such folks are looking to swim in a bigger (read urban) pond.

 In this tradition, Jean-Claude Mas pursued a career in the motor industry, living first in the United States and then in Paris, before entering the wine industry. But, Jean-Claude realized the potential of the Languedoc and the native son returned home to breathe new life into this bulk wine region. As the proprietor of Domaines Paul Mas, which includes the Arrogant Frog label, you might say that Jean-Claude is now the big frog swimming in this smaller (more rural) pond.

Although Jean-Claude never studied formally studied agriculture, he recognizes that there are five separate spheres of expertise required to craft world class wine – viticulture, winemaking, blending and aging, bottling and marketing –and makes sure to find the best people in each sphere and then hire them. What seems most interesting is the nearly equal value he places on all five spheres.

A true pioneer in an area where 70% of production is in the hands of co-ops, Jean-Claude shifted the focus away from quantity and instead turned his attention to quality. Moreover, he paid particular attention to what the market wanted. Arriving back in Languedoc in 1996, he saw tremendous worldwide interest in Australia and Chile and emulated, but didn’t imitate, those wines. In 2000, he took over the helm of Domaines Paul Mas, bringing his vision of producing premium wines to the family business.

Part of Jean-Claude’s pursuit led him to developing new ways of growing grapes in the area. He spent considerable time identifying the right terroir and now has eight different estates and produces four different levels of wine from his entry-level to his single estate wines. Beyond his own land, he contracts with 2,000 growers to source the fruit he needs. While he admits that there is a heavily reliance on old practices, Jean-Claude explains that “The growers will change when they know they’ll make money.”

And, while some frogs have noted that “it’s not easy being green,” Jean-Claude has been at the forefront of eco-friendly farming in the area. In this regard, Domaines Paul Mas has restricted its use to certified organic fertilizers and one of the estates, Les Tannes, is solely focused on the production of organically grown grapes.  This same passion and commitment to the environment is brought to his contract growers, who are not only encouraged to adopt such practices, but are also provided with full technical advice.

Jean-Claude also places significant emphasis on creating balanced vines. He doesn’t use just one specific density in planting; rather, he is careful to match vine density with the fertility of the soil. Further, he looks to rootstocks and clones to achieve full ripeness.

For example, the ubiquitous Picpoul has not been highly regarded, but Jean-Claude didn’t fault the variety for its short-comings. Rather, he recognized that the grape is prone to chlorosis and countered this deficiency with better rootstocks and selected better clones. Once harvested, these grapes are fermented at temperatures similar to those used for Sauvignon Blanc and lees contact is included in the winemaking regimen. Consequently, in his words, his Picpoul is not a conventional one – combining the minerality of a Muscadet with tropical notes.

Likening wine style to food style, Jean-Claude acknowledges that a steak cooked rare can be the same quality as one cooked well done, but that it is a simply matter of style. Similarly, he believes that one needs to shape a wine based on one’s preferred style. He extends this analogy into the realm of fashion, speaking of blending and aging in the way that a fashion designer might choose to use silk or wool in his or her designs.

While Jean-Claude joked that, “The style of Languedoc is chaos,” his wines, particularly those from the Paul Mas Estate, were of a singular style – displaying complexity, balance and length. At suggested retail prices ranging from $14.00 to $25.00 (and likely available less expensively), these are wines that significantly over-deliver at this price point. Additionally, the attractive labels give them the appearance of more expensive brands, making them great for hostess gifts or hosting your own party.

Côté Mas St. Hilaire Crémant de Limoux Brut NV, SRP: $16.0
A blend of 60% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, 10% Pinot Noir and 10% Mauzac, this sparkling wine offered some slight yeast, along with apple peel and citrus, on the nose and palate. It had a creamy mousse with high acidity and a long, but clean finish. Complex and elegant; stock up for holiday toasts and parties.

Paul Mas Estate Picpoul de Pinet 2011, SRP: $14.00
Wax, white flowers, honey and melon greet the nose. The dry palate has low to medium acidity and is relatively light-bodied, but the wine is rich in flavor – nectarine, honey, minerality, floral and melon persist throughout the long finish. Nicely balanced and a beautiful partner for grilled octopus (among many other dishes, of course).

Paul Mas Estate Carignan Vieilles Vignes 2010, SRP: $14.00
Black fruit dominates the nose and palate, accompanied by a meatiness and earthiness. With rich and concentrated fruit, a slate/mineral character is also present on the dry palate. Fresh fruit and minerality are the hallmarks of this complex wine.

Paul Mas Estate GSM 2010, SRP: $15.00
As its name implies, the GSM is a blend of 35% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 30% Mourvedre, all of which are typical grapes of the region as well as of nearby the Southern Rhone. Showing blueberry and blackberry aromas and flavors, this wine was fruitier than the others, but still decidedly dry. Ripe, silky tannins co-mingled with black and red fruit, and a hint of earth in the long length.

Chateau Paul Mas Clos de Savignanc 2010, SRP: $25.00
A blend of 30% Mourvedre, 40% Syrah and 30% Grenache, the make-up of this wine changes based upon the vintage. Black cherry, smoke, earth, herbal and mint, this wine displayed more secondary characteristics than primary ones. Full-bodied with good acidity, this wine will improve with some bottle age.

The winery visit that wasn’t: Masottina’s new facility

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When Stefano invited me to visit Masottina during Vino in Villa last May, I was looking forward to seeing the winery and, as anticipated at any winery visit, I also looked forward to tasting the Masottina wines. Imagine my surprise when the winery turned out to be a construction zone. No, really. It was a full-out construction zone, complete with the need to jump over gaps in the pavement (in my customary high heels and a dress) and stay away from wet concrete. And yet, it turned out to be quite a visit.

Masottina is constructing a state-of-the-art facility that is enormous. The building would have been a bit of a monstrosity, marring the beautiful landscape given its behemoth size, but the winery is actually built into the side of a hill. A big hill. Thus, the underground levels practically disappear.

Gingerly walking down flight after flight, I was given a tour of each floor with Masottina’s Marketing Manager, Federico dal Bianco. In viewing the structure, Masottina appears to be sparing no expense. The concrete floors share space with stunning wood beams overhead, recalling the hull of a graceful ship, while the sheer height of the space, along with the massive support columns, puts one in mind of a church or Greek temple. It was impressive as a work-in-progress; it will be incredible to see completed.

But, despite spending about an hour at the site, plus a brief visit to their nearby vineyards, there was no wine, of course. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to taste through the Masottina wines at the Vino in Villa event later that evening.

While I did enjoy their Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore wines in both Brut and Extra Dry styles, it was their Rive-designated wine that stole my heart. Rive wines are a new classification that were introduced with the new regulations, which promoted Prosecco Superiore to DOCG status, and indicate wines that are harvested from a single vineyard in one of hte designated zones and at lower yields.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry “Rive di Ogliano” 2011
Aromas of floral, pear and minerality greeted the nose and were repeated on the palate. Not surprisingly, given that it was labeled as Extra Dry, the wine did display a hint of sweetness on the palate, but it was coupled with sufficient acidity to balance the slight residual sugar. This balance remained throughout the wine’s long length.

Beyond Prosecco Superiore, Masottina also produces wines under several other denominations, including the (also newly promoted) Colli di Conegliano DOCG. Thus, when I arrived in Venice a few days later, I was delighted to see the Massotina Colli di Conegliano Bianco on the list at Al Covo. Admittedly, I didn’t take any tasting notes on this blend of Incrocio  Manzoni , Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, but, trust me, it was a lovely pairing with my meal.