Category Archives: Wine

Rose Revolution: Better Dead than Red

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World winemakers unite! Admittedly I have Communism and Leon Trotsky on the brain thanks to having just finished Barbara Kingsolver’s novel, The Lacuna. However, the notion that winemakers are globally uniting to produce rosé wines is not that far-fetched, at least not in terms of the depth and breadth of these wines now being produced.

While drinking pink wine (at least publically) was previously relegated to newbies quaffing White Zinfandel and other sweet blush wines, today’s rosés run the gamut in hue and are primarily dry in style. With a decade of growth in the U.S. market, rosé continues to be one of the U.S.’s fastest growing wine categories in retail sales; the message is clear: Rosé is here to stay. Tweet that!

A recent “Pink Party” hosted by Winebow showcased the importer’s vast portfolio of rosés, which not only ranged in style (from still to sparkling and pale salmons to deep pinks), but also in origin of production.

As the number one producer of rosé worldwide, it is not surprising that the line-up was heavy in French samples, with appellations that specialize in the pink stuff such as Provence and Tavel well represented. Italian specimens were similarly prevalent, most of which hailed from the southern portion of the boot: Sicily, Sardinia, Campania and Calabria.

But, Winebow’s rosé collection is much more widespread than the wine world’s two top producers. In addition to a reasonable showing of wines from the U.S.’ east and west coasts, more unique appearances came from Croatia, Greece, Lebanon and the Republic of Macedonia.

Adding to the diversity, the sparklers were not only comprised of the usual suspects such as Rosé Champagne and a beautiful rose Cava, but also on hand were lovely bubbles from Austria and Tasmania.

And, vying for most unusual wine of the day was a “100% pure rosé sake” produced from heirloom purple rice.

With such a plethora of rosé wines in the market, it can be quite confusing to the consumer to make sense of it all. But, the easiest way to understand rosé is to think about something with which most people are familiar – tie-dyeing. Tweet this!

Such childhood arts-and-crafts projects provide a simple, but effective tool, for learning about rosé production. Armed with white t-shirts, rubber bands and RIT dye, we saw that leaving the t-shirt in the dye bath for just a few minutes resulted in a pale hue, while soaking it for the full hour delivered the deepest color. Moreover, the instructions advised that higher temperatures and agitation further added to the color saturation.

Apply these same principles to winemaking, substituting grape skins for RIT dye and grape juice/must for t-shirts (no rubber bands required) and, by George, you’ve got it. Now you are ready to join the revolution!

Looking for some rosés to sip this summer (yes, I promise it will be summer one of these days)? Here are some of my favorites from the Pink Party tasting:

SPARKLING WINES
Jansz Sparkling Rose NV, Tasmania, Australia
A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier with just a hint of color. Citrus, mineral and peach notes.

Juvé y Camps Rosé Brut Pinot Noir NV, Cava, Spain
100% Pinot Noir and medium-deep pink in color. Floral and fruit on the nose with red fruit and herbs on the palate.

Lanson Brut Rosé Champagne NV, Champagne, France
A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Rich and intense with typical yeasty character along with citrus and a hint of red fruit.

STILL WINES
Adelsheim Rosé 2013, Willamette Valley (OR), USA, $25.00
100% Pinot Noir. Herbs with some depth and slight grip on the palate. Fresh strawberries and melon.

Chateau Mercouri Lampadias Rosé 2013, Ilia, Greece
A 50-50 blend of Avgoustiatis and Agiorgitiko. Simply lovely with good fruit and acidity.

Les Vignobles Gueissard Côtes de Provence Rosé “Les Papilles” 2013, Provence, France
Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Rolle. Berries and cherries with body and good length.

Zenato Bardolino Chiaretto 2013, Veneto, Italy
Corvina, Rondinella and Merlot. Very fruity with strawberry, raspberry and dried herb aromas and flavors.

It’s Complicated… but does it have to be?

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Each year, dozens of high school and college teams gather together to compete in building complex machinery to complete simple tasks. This national competition, held in celebration of cartoonist Rube Goldberg, encourages the creation of far-fetched contraptions to accomplish straight-forward tasks such as hammering a nail or turning a page.

See the Rube Goldberg website for this and other images.

These machines take a circuitous route to getting things done, instead of simply moving from Point A to Point B, there are quite a few stops along the way.

In the context of the Rube Goldberg Machine Contest, such round-about, comical approaches can be a lot of fun, but why do we seem to take a similar tack when explaining simple concepts about wine to our students?

As a refreshing antidote to encyclopedic tomes, Tom Stevenson has written “a [wine] book for people who don’t want to read about wine.” Stevenson’s newest book, Buy the Right Wine Every Time, The No-Fuss, No-Vintage Wine Guide, offers a simple, straightforward approach and focuses on wines that are generally inexpensive, widely available and consistent from year to year.

This is a distinct departure for Stevenson, who is well known for writing the (encyclopedia tome and) go-to-guide, World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparking Wine. Presumably much more at home drinking the likes of Bollinger and Taittenger, for this project, Stevenson found himself tasting Barefoot and Turning Leaf and seems to be impressed with these and several other big brands.

The first part of the book emphasizes wine by style, while in the latter section (referred to as the “A-Z of wines”), individual wines are listed alphabetically (naturally) with a few key elements included:

  • What is it?
  • What does it taste like?
  • If you like this, then try with confidence…

The very first entry in this section is the Adami Prosecco Bosco del Gica, which Stevenson rates as Recommended. (His other ratings are To Die For and Highly Recommended). As a consumer-oriented wine book, I would say it is Highly Recommended.

Interestingly, or at least of interest to me as a wine educator, while the label clearly indicates that the wine is Prosecco Superiore DOCG (and not just Prosecco DOC), Stevenson makes absolutely no mention of this fact in his text.

And, in the wine style section, none of the wines listed include the appellation or even country of origin. Truly a case of less is more.

Truthfully, having worked with the Prosecco Superiore consortium, I feel a duty to explain and clarify the differences between the two, but in all honestly, does the average consumer really care as long as the wine tastes good (to them) and fits within their budget? As much as I hate to admit it, the answer is no.

Yet, I do not advocate for a full abdication of complex principles; merely, for the use of clear explanations when they are necessary and appropriate. In this regard, detailed dissertations on appellation laws might be best left for trade training, but significant concepts that link wine and place should be explored, keeping context and audience in mind when guiding such conversations.

Similarly, at a recent seminar on “Why Terroir Matters,” author and educator Marnie Old questioned whether we should be using the term terroir with consumers, noting that discussions of “dirt” tend to turn people off.

In response, Bordeaux merchant and estate owner, Edouard Moueix suggested that, “[Terroir] is a term that was invented to describe something that can’t be easily defined,” but was adamant that terroir is indeed vital to the dialogue on wine. Instead, he proposed that we need to do a better job illuminating this term for consumers to help them understand how terroir distinguishes one wine from another in its identity as well as to clarify that it does not, in fact, mean “dirt.”

Admittedly, a tall order, but as a wine educator I am up for the challenge. What do you think?

Goldilocks and the Crus Bourgeois

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Once upon a time, there was a little girl named Goldilocks who went for a walk in the forest. After walking for awhile, she came upon a house. She knocked and, when no one answered, she walked right in.

At the table in the kitchen, there were three bowls of porridge. Goldilocks was hungry (walks in the forest tend to do that) and proceeded to taste the porridge from the first bowl.

“This porridge is too hot!” she exclaimed.

Next, she tasted the porridge from the second bowl.

“This porridge is too cold,” she said

So (ever the optimist), she tasted the last bowl of porridge.

“Ahhh, this porridge is just right,” she said happily and ate it all up.

While we know that the bears soon returned home to find Goldilocks fast asleep in Baby Bear’s bed, we can learn a lot from Goldilocks (and not just the part about staying out of people’s –and bear’s– homes).

I recently had the opportunity to present a class on the Crus Bourgeois wines to the staff members of Bottle Rocket Wine & Spirit.

Since it was late (9:00 PM on a Thursday night), cold (polar vortex anyone?) and that they were likely to be tired (did I mention it was late?), I knew that I couldn’t give them too many facts and details. Not only would they easily forget them, it would simply be “too much” information.

I also knew that I couldn’t just talk about the Crus Bourgeois because the assembled group of employees possessed a varied set of existing knowledge about Bordeaux. Such an approach would provide “too little” information. I had to ensure that everyone had at least a basic understanding of the Bordeaux wine region.

Thus, I spent some time reviewing the essential elements of Bordeaux – climate, grape varieties, wine styles and appellations – before discussing and tasting the Crus Bourgeois wines. I acknowledged that some of this would be review for them and was careful not to dwell on irrelevant details. In addition, I made sure to emphasize the information that would be most useful to them in selling Bordeaux wine to their customers.

When I was finished with my presentation, the General Manager pronounced that what I had delivered to his staff was “just right.” I’m sure Goldilocks would be pleased.

Looking to expand your knowledge on Bordeaux and the Crus Bourgeois?

The inaugural issue of my Drink Wisely magazine was “All About Bordeaux,” but admittedly might be “too much” content for some readers. For a more general introduction to Bordeaux, see my Examiner article on Decoding Bordeaux (possibly “too little” for others). Finally, my Wine Portfolio article on the current status of the Crus Bourgeois might be “just right” to bring you up to speed on this important Bordeaux wine category.

Vino Veritas, the ferment and foment of blue frogs

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vino-veritas-poster-smMy inbox is constantly bombarded with various press releases, most of which are wine related – new products, recent releases, etc. But, I suspect that I am often included on random releases simply because they somehow found my website (and an active e-mail address).

These latter missives generally have nothing to do with anything I write about or have an interest in. Stowe, VT? Clothing swaps? And, most recently, a request to write about a tool that removes unwanted e-mails from your inbox (do they even see the irony?)

But, on occasion, the query is tangential, but interesting. This month, I was invited to prescreen a movie titled, Vino Veritas (loosely translated as “in wine is truth”). Intrigued by the trailer, I agreed and was pleasantly surprised. I really enjoyed the movie, which is being released via iTunes and VOD through Gravitas Ventures on January 15.

For those of you who may wish to see the movie, I will caution you to stop reading right now. In other words — Spoiler Alert!

But, if I haven’t scared you off, I invite you to keeping reading…

While the publicist characterized the film as being “wine-centric,” his statement is a bit exaggerated because this is NOT a film about wine. Rather, wine is primarily used as a plot device rather than being the main topic of the movie.

Interestingly, as wine consumption becomes more popular in the U.S., it is finding its way into cultural expression – television, movies, books, etc. Yet, despite its increased acceptance, wine (and alcohol in general) is frequently demonized. While this film doesn’t demonize wine, it does cast it in an ominous light – imbuing the wine in question with mystical properties that compel imbibers to tell the truth.

Moreover, wine features heavily as a character trait of one of the protagonists. Appearing to rely on old stereotypes about wine, the film depicts Ridley as being a snob as a result of his knowledge and enjoyment of fine wine and pursuit of formal credentials, while the “common folk” characters reach for beer.

Given that this film is an adaption of David MacGregor’s 2008 play of the same name, I wonder if some of this thinking about wine has changed in the intervening five years.

But, as noted, this is not a wine movie. Instead, it is a film that explores the universal theme of truth, and how it relates to dealing with modern issues such as the burdens of parenthood and owning one’s sexual identity.

Tackling the issue of parenthood, the conversation among the four characters — particularly between the two women – pushes the boundaries of what is socially acceptable to admit as a parent. Mourning the loss of one’s identity (i.e. I want to be more than just __’s mother); the loss of freedom and adventure; and the loss of relationship between husband and wife, under the influence of the “magical wine”, the women break the taboo of expressing any sentiment regarding motherhood as anything other than that of doting mom by openly admitting there are negative aspects associated with being a parent.

Addressing another societal taboo, the film’s discussion of sexual identity centers on sexual expression and, more specifically, how one likes to engage in and enjoy sex. Here, one wife’s admission of her sexual preferences for rough sex is vilified– with the implication that she is a “slut” or “whore” for her sexual deviance. Meanwhile, there appears to be less condemnation of her husband’s sexual transgressions; while not expressly condoning infidelity, it seems to excuse the behavior in a “boys will be boys” sort of way.

As the evening winds to a close, for one couple, the truth will set them free. But for the other, to paraphrase Jack Nicholson in a Few Good Men, they can’t handle the truth.

In fact, this couple is so abhorred by the revelations made by each other that neither can bear to live with this knowledge. Rather than find a way to meet each other’s sexual needs or accept their partner for who they truly are, they would prefer to be blissfully ignorant. What a sad commentary on a marriage, but likely the reality for many actual couples.

Directed by Sarah Knight, the film’s production was unusual in several ways, as described by the Director’s Statement, included in the press kit. Specifically, as a theatre director, Sarah “…only wanted to cast actors with theatre backgrounds as this film was going to live and die on the performances.”

In addition to the performers’ backgrounds, Sarah notes that, “…by the final rehearsal day we just ran the show in its entirety like a play!” and actual shooting took place “…almost completely in sequence.” Finally, they “…often shot very long takes and occasionally filmed entire scenes in one take…”

This nontraditional treatment emphasized the film’s origin as a piece for the stage and pulled the story together in a very fluid, natural way.

Well written, with believable characters, the film is not only enjoyable on a comedic level, but pushes the audience to think about how honesty –real, raw honesty– will impact their lives. Can they bear to reveal their own naked truth to themselves, their spouses, friends or the world at large?

If Vino Veritas is indeed the case, I for one think that we all should drink more wine!

Buying German Wine – Understanding the Label

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Sprechen Sie Deutsch (Do you speak German)? Looking at the text on German wine labels, it is leichter gesagt als getan (easier said than done), or, more correctly, easier said than understood. And, for that matter, it isn’t even very easy to say.

If wine labels are generally intimidating to the uninitiated, German wine labels are among the most intimidating of all – unfamiliar names; lengthy, unpronounceable terms; and just an all around use of a lot of words could scare off even the most avid wine drinker.

But, in truth, German wine labels actually provide the consumer with a wealth of information about the wine in question. You don’t need a secret decoder ring, but learning some basic German wine vocabulary will assist you in understanding what you are looking at on the wine store shelf.

To begin, there are two levels of German quality wine – Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete(QbA) and Qualitätswein mit Prädikat (QmP).  The first category designates wines that come from one of Germany’s 13 wine regions and account for the majority of German wine production. The latter (QmP) are more complicated because, in addition to coming from a particular wine region, they also indicate wines produced from grapes that have achieved certain levels of ripeness at harvest. These are considered to be higher in quality than QbA because Germany’s cool climate makes it more challenging to reach full ripeness, thereby placing a premium on riper grapes.

Prädikat Levels

Once one has worked out the two quality levels, they may encounter some confusion with regard to the grape varieties themselves. Spätburgunder? Grauburgunder? Weissburgunder? Sure, they sound exotic, but actually, these are just the German names for Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, respectively. Other grapes likely to be seen include Müller-Thurgau (white), Silvaner (white) — particularly prized when it hails from Franken, Portugieser (red) and the more respected Dornfelder (red). Also of note is Lemberger (elsewhere known as Blaufränkisch) which offers red fruit, spice and nice tannin structure. Above all else, there’s Riesling; this vaunted white grape accounts for over one-quarter of all German plantings.

Dry or sweet? Although many people associate Germany with sweet wines, the majority of German wines produced today are dry. Admittedly, a lot of the drier style wines never make it to our shores (the Germans keep much of it at home for themselves), but consumers can find dry style German wines on U.S. shelves. Some of these wines are distinctly labeled as being dry – if you know how to decipher the label. The specific words to look for are trocken (dry) and halbtrocken (off-dry).

Charta logoIn addition, the label terms “Classic” and “Selection” may also be used to indicate a dry (or high-acid, off-dry) wine.  Similarly, wines bearing the double Romanesque arch of the Charta Association, created in 1983, are dry to off-dry QbA- or prädikat-level Rieslings from the Rheingau region that meet the organization’s strict quality regulations.

In general, wines that have no indication of their sweetness level can usually be expected to be somewhat sweet. Another hint is to check the alcohol level since lower alcohol levels (9% abv and lower) generally mean that at least some of the grape’s sugar content hasn’t been converted into alcohol and, thus, remains in the wine as detectable sweetness.

As with many other wine producing countries, Germany’s wine regions can be further broken down into smaller areas – bereiche, grosslagen and einzellagen. A bereich is a regional or district designation, while a grosslage is a group of vineyards and an einzellage is, theoretically, a single vineyard.  Unfortunately, it is these last two territories that cause the most confusion since it is often difficult to ascertain whether the label refers to a grosslage or einzellage.

However, this uncertainty can be overcome by either memorizing a list of the top sites, limiting purchases to wines from well-known/well-respected producers or simply giving up and taking a chance on the bottle in hand, despite its murky label (well, not really).

Thankfully, an additional classification system was launched in 2002 by the Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter, can boost one’s confidence in choosing a wine. VDP LogoEstablished in 1910 and abbreviated as VDP, this association represents Germany’s leading wine estates, with a dual focus on quality wine production and classified vineyard sites. All of these wines sport the association’s eagle logo, making them easily identifiable to the consumer.

In 2012, this classification system was further refined, closely modeled on Burgundy’s regional and vineyard hierarchy. Accordingly, the top category, VDP. Grosse Lage (translating as Great Site) is awarded to the best vineyard sites, equivalent to Burgundy’s Grand Cru vineyards. Dry wines in this upper echelon are further designated as VDP. Grosses Gewächs “Great Growth” and labeled “Qualitätswein trocken” while naturally sweet wines are labeled with the appropriate traditional Prädikat term.

VDP LevelsAnalogous to Burgundy’s Premier Cru vineyards is the VDP. Erste Lage (First Site), while VDP. Ortswein (Classified Site) is akin to Burgundy’s Village-level wines. The lowest tier of this system is the VDP. Gutswein (Estate Wine), which is similar to the regional designation in Burgundy (i.e. AOC Bourgogne). Dry wines in these categories are also labeled “Qualitätswein trocken” while the sweet wines retain the Prädikat designation on their labels.

Bearing all of these clues in mind, the careful consumer can more readily choose among the selection of German wines on the shelf of their neighborhood wine retailer and find the bottle that best meets their preferences.

silvaner

Castell-Castell Silvaner 2012, Franken, Germany, $18.00 
With aromas of pear, wax and white flowers, this dry wine offers medium acidity and medium body on the palate with flavors of almond, wax and pear and medium+ length.

Grafen Neipperg Lemberger
Trocken 2011, Württemberg, Germany, $20.00 (not pictured)
Medium aromas of cinnamon, berry and wood are joined on the (clearly stated –trocken) dry palate with flavors of cranberry, mulberry and a hint of earth in the finish.

Undone PNUndone Pinot Noir
2012, Rheinhessen, Germany, $11.00
A Pinot Noir from Germany isn’t so surprising these days (Germany is #3 in PN production), but this wine’s origin from Rheinhessen (as opposed to Ahr or Baden) makes it somewhat unusual as does its great quality at this price. With cherry, herbal and wet leaves on the nose, this dry wine has lively acidity on the palate. Medium+ length.

 

Schloss Saarstein Riesling Kabinett 2012, Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner, Mosel, Germany, $25.00Schloss Saarstein
Located within the municipality of Serrig, the Schloss Saarsteiner property, so named for the large castle (schloss) that sits amidst the vines, above the Saar River (a tributary of the Mosel) is an Erste Lage site. The wine offers peach, floral and wet stone aromas on the nose. Its palate is off-dry with high acidity and flavors of lime zest, peach and wet stone, culminating in long length.

Prinz SalmPrinz Salm Roxheimer
Berg Spätlese 2012, Nahe, Germany, $28.00
With an alcohol level of 7.5% abv and a designation of spätlese, there was no question that this wine (from a Grosse Lage site) would have some sweetness. However, its sweetness is beautifully balanced by its high acidity, so it is perceived as off-dry on the palate, with lemon zest, lime, peach, honey and minerality aromas and flavors.

Johannishof Charta Riesling 2012, Rheingau, Germany, $25.00Johannishof

A pronounced nose provides aromas of floral, straw, wet stone and Asian pear. The dry palate displays high acidity with notes of granny smith apple, lime, stone, pith, blossom and minerality. Long Length.

 

 

Kesselstatt Josephshöfer Riesling Kabinett 2012, Mosel, Germany, $30.00thumb
First documented 1,100 years ago, the Josephshöfer Grosse Lage site has been wholly owned by Kesselstatt since 1858. Citrus, floral, apricot and slight honey aromas greet the nose and persist on the dry, but ripe, palate. Long length.

Why Extra Dry is anything but

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Those who know me well, know that I love everything that sparkles – wine, water, personalities and diamonds. With Christmas and New Year’s Eve lurking around the corner, it is the perfect time to break out the bubby, whether it’s a special bottle of vintage Champagne*, a fresh and fruity Prosecco or a fabulously food-friendly Lambrusco. As long as it glitters, all is right in the world J

Of course, sparkling wines should be welcome guests at the table any time of year, but with holiday festivities and parties proliferating your social schedule, there is even more reason to celebrate with CO2 infused libations.

For the uninitiated, the world of sparkling wine can be quite complicated with terms appearing on these labels not seen on other wines such as blanc de blancs. Plus, if you’ve tried to use the literal translation of those sweetness levels, you’ve likely been a bit disappointed or at least quite confused.

Looking for an easy way to teach yourself or others to remember the basics of sparkling wine?

As an educator, I prefer to appeal to people’s visual learning style because it can be much more powerful than simple text. There’s a reason the adage “A picture is worth a thousand words” has become so popular. Equally important, images can highlight familiar concepts or reinforce associated meaning when introducing new concepts. To that end, I’ve created two infographics, which you may find helpful to you as you shop for wine or engage your students this holiday season (click on the thumbnails for larger version images).

Sparkling Wine Definitions

Dosage Table

 

 

 

 

 

I’ve also found another nifty visual aid over at Wine Folly.

For more tips on sparkling wine, check out the holiday issue of my newly launched magazine – Drink Wisely & Well (and also see the inaugural issue, which featured Bordeaux). I’m really proud of this new publication and have gotten a lot of praise on the design (and not just from my parents).

As for why Extra Dry is a misnomer, I really can’t say; even Jancis Robinson’s Oxford Companion to Wine (3rd edition) didn’t have an answer. But, whether your preference is for dry, sweet or somewhere in between, I raise a flute to you and wish you all the best as we count down 2013 and usher in 2014!

*It’s admittedly a pet peeve of mine, but in case you didn’t know, the term Champagne is NOT generic; it should be reserved specifically for those sparkling wines produced in the Champagne region of France.

Alsace does it again: Food-friendly French wines

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HelfrichIn yet another stellar example of how well Alsatian wines pair with food, we ordered nearly one of everything on the French-Asian menu at Rouge & Blanc and let the forks fly.

Admittedly, some pairings were preferred over others, but nothing clashed and almost all worked reasonably well. We also appreciated how the luscious fruit and slightly off-dry palate of the Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer provided a nice counterpoint to the spiciness of some of the dishes.

The following menu items, pulled from the restaurant’s website, should provide some indication as to the varied nature of our meal and, consequently, the flexibility of the wines.

  •  Duck Egg Pissaladière, Caramelized Shallot, Reading Raclette
  •  Cured Arctic Char, Smoked Pickles, Mustard Vinaigrette, Crostini
  •  Grilled Pork Belly, Charred Vietnamese Corn, Market Relish
  •  Glazed Lamb Ribs, Sesame, Cucumber Herb Salad
  •  Hanoi Fried Chicken, Lemongrass Aioli, Summer Pickles

The occasion for our little game was a visit from Anne-Laure Helfrich, the third generation of her family at work in the family business. Established in 1934, Helfrich winery produces a full range of Alsatian whites from the sparkling Cremant d’Alsace to Grand Cru designated wines and several in between.

While I haven’t yet been to Alsace, it remains one of my favorite French wine regions. Its distinct varietal wines are easy to understand and generally easy on the wallet, even at classified levels – nothing we tasted topped $19.99.

Starting with the Cremant d’Alsace ($19.99), produced from 100% Pinot Blanc, it served as a terrific aperitif as we got to know Anne-Laure and our fellow diners, with just the right balance of citrus fruit and yeasty/ toasty notes stemming from its Traditional Method production.

We next opened up the still Pinot Blanc 2012 ($14.99), which, as Anne-Laure explained, can be found in everyone’s fridge in Alsace, due to its overall food-friendly nature and easy drinkability. The Helfrich Pinot Blanc did not disappoint in this regard, displaying smoke, pear and almond notes on both the nose and palate.

The Riesling 2012 ($14.99) was full of orange blossom and tangerine aromas, with refreshing acidity, citrus and pith on the dry palate. The Pinot Gris 2012 ($14.99) was similarly citrus in character, but was slightly off-dry, with almond and spice. The Gewurztraminer 2012 ($14.99) was classic with floral and tropical fruit and only a hint of residual sugar.

2013-10-10 19.47.48The Grand Cru wines hail from the famed Steinklotz Vineyard, which boasts of being the oldest documented vineyard in Alsace as recorded in 589. Located at the northern end of the region, near Strasbourg, the vineyard is quite steep with chalky soils.

These wines, all priced at $19.99, showed more complexity and depth than their non-Grand Cru counterparts. The Riesling Grand Cru 2011 was steely, with intense minerality, lime/citrus notes and long length, while the Pinot Gris Grand Cru 2011 was lush with rich tropical fruit, smoke and floral notes. The richness and concentration of this latter wine offered a perfect example of how a white wine could not only stand up, but pair well with smoky, sweet ribs and salty, spicy pork belly.

All in all, it was a wonderful meal, punctuated with well-made wines and great company.