Category Archives: Wine World

Alto Adige’s White Wines Hit A High Note

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Introducing a seminar on Italy’s Alto Adige region, Cornerstone Communication’s CEO Marsha Palanci explained that, “This is the only part of Italy where you can hear yodeling in one window and arias in another.” Not surprisingly, in looking at regional photos, you would half expect Julie Andrews to suddenly appear and belt out songs from the Sound of Music.

Marsha further added that both Mediterranean and Alpine botany could found growing side by side in the region, before turning the presentation over to the panel moderator Mary Ewing-Mulligan. Mary stressed the homogeneity across the region and underscored the ageability of these wines due the high mineral content in the soil.

Alto Adige, the northernmost region of Italy, was under Austrian rule until 1919, hence the yodeling. And, to this day, both German and Italian are the official languages. With the Dolomites to the East and the Alps to the north, these mountain ranges shelter the area from the cold forces of the North and trap air from the lakes. This protection also extends to the limited rainfall with the region seeing 300 sunny days per year. (Although with my luck, I’d be liable to visit on one of the other 65 days.)

When considered separate from Trentino, Alto Adige is the smallest of Italy’s 20 regions. To put its size in perspective, Mary explained that the land was 50% larger than New Jersey, but that the population was just 6% of New York City. Yet, despite its limited size, 98% of its production is at the Protected Designation of Origin level – the most of any Italian region. In fact, three times as many of Alto Adige’s wines win Tre Biccheri awards compared to Tuscany.

The area’s steep slopes are given over to white grapes while the lower, rolling hills are planted to reds. The core varieties seen in the U.S. market are Pinot Bianco (aka Pinot Blanc), Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Nero and Lagrein, which highlight the region’s Germanic and French influences. Regardless of the specific variety, white plantings account for 55% and are on the rise.

The seminar’s tasting was a varied set of grape varieties and vintages, with the oldest wine dating to 2002.

 

Franz Haas Cuvée Manna 2004, IGT Dolomiti, Italy, ($40.00, 2009 vintage)

In 1988, the winemaker attended a 7-course tasting dinner and was inspired to create a wine that would pair well with a broad range of foods/courses. This wine, a blend of Riesling, Chardonnay, late harvest Gewurztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc, is the result of that inspiration. The Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are both barrel-fermented, which add complexity to this unusual wine. With six years of age, the wine was showing some development with notes of honey, spice, pear and floral. The high acidity and medium+ body provided nice structure to the complex and concentrated flavors, which culminated in long length throughout the mineral finish. The wine is IGT as opposed to DOC designated due to its unorthodox blend.

Nals Margreid Pinot Grigio Punggl 2007, Alto Adige DOC, Italy, ($24.00, 2009 vintage)

In an old German dialect, the word Punggl means hill, which, in this case, refers to the name of this hilltop, single vineyard located in the southern part of the region. Earth, mineral, green apple and a hint of citrus aromas gave way to a palate of high acidity, medium body, mineral, citrus, orange peel and long length. Aromatic with crisp acidity, Mary described the wine as having one leg in Alsace and another in Italy, while Klaus Gasser, oenologist at Terlan, suggested that it had great tension now, but could age up to 10 years.

Terlan Nova Domus Terlaner Riserva 2005, Alto Adige DOC, Italy, ($55.00, 2007 vintage)

The reason for the apparent duplication is that Terlan is both the town and the name of the appellation. Intertwined in the region for ages, this Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc blend has been made by Terlan for 100 years. Floral aromas with slight honey, spice, stone and pear greet the nose while citrus, floral, yeast and mineral notes persist on the youthful palate. Klaus attributed the mineral character to the Pinot Bianco. Mary remarked that the Sauvignon Blanc was speaking, but further admitted that the wine could age beautifully and that, “great Pinot Bianco is from Alto Adige.”

Alois Lageder, Chardonnay Löwengang 2002, Alto Adige DOC, Italy, ($40.00, 2007 vintage)

Löwengang refers to the 400 year old Manor House known as Lion’s Gate at the winery. Here, these 40-60 year old vines are grown on southeast facing vineyards, which receive good sun exposure. The long growing season permits the grapes to develop concentrated wines. At fours years old, the wine was showing some development with earth, slight oak, mineral, apple and citrus aromas. The palate was still quite youthful with high acidity, full body and an undercurrent of spice and oak throughout its long length. Mary advised that the wine’s strong acidity masked the fact that it had undergone malolactic fermentation.

Peter Zemmer Gewürztraminer Reserve 2006, Alto Adige DOC, Italy, ($29.00, 2009 vintage)

The winery’s stated goal to capture grapes at their natural freshness comes through on this pungent, but balanced wine. Both beautiful and elegant, the wine showed pronounced notes of floral, tropical fruit, spice, smoke and mineral. The medium+ body, medium+ acidity and oily texture provided a backdrop for the spicy, honey, tropical fruit flavors with good concentration and ripeness in the finish. Mary noted that while there was some noticeable residual sugar on the palate, it came across more as richness than sweetness due to the wine’s high acidity.

HARVEST East End Wine Salon – Mad about Merlot

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The second annual HARVEST East End – wine auction and celebration of Long Island’s wines – took place this month (September 2011). Kicking off on September 3, wine salons were held at various wineries and other locations for three Saturdays, culminating in the Festival Tasting on the evening of September 17, immediately followed by the Havest Moon Gala at The Ludlow Farm.

As we neared our destination, signage directed us not only to Ludlow Farm, but also to the corn maze. We thought that was an interesting idea, but, in fact, the festival walk-around tasting took place under several tents, away from husks of corn. While the wineries were not hidden among the maize, we did manage to miss a few.

Prior to the main festivities, Grand Cru Classes was pleased to sponsor this year’s event once again by hosting one of the wine salons. Accordingly, on September 10, I presented my Mad about Merlot class, with a twist. The class is usually comprised of 5 or 6 Merlots from around the world, permitting attendees to compare and contrast the aromas, flavors and structure of Merlot wines from a wide range of terroirs. However, given that the salon was part of a celebration of Long Island, the wine selection was restricted to Merlots from the East End. Of course, the term “restricted” is quite a misnomer as the line-up proved to be even more diverse than usual.

Starting with Pugliese’s deep red-hued sparkling wine, the session presented participants with an overview of this much-maligned grape, while lauding its virtues both on Long Island and elsewhere. Next, attention shifted to a blanc de noirs — a white wine crafted from a red grape — with Lieb’s Merlot Blanc. If tasted under different circumstances (i.e. you didn’t know you were only drinking Merlots), it would be easy to mistake it for a Sauvignon Blanc. Adding back some color, attendees then tasted Croteaux’s rosé produced from Merlot clone #314 from St. Emilion. The rosé was followed by a wine created by members of the L.I. Merlot Alliance, all of whom provide a barrel of their Merlot for the annual project. While the Merliance wine was from a recent vintage (2008), the other straight Merlot (from Lenz Winery) hailed from the 2001 vintage, showed some beautiful development and inspired a McCall beef dinner later that night. Finally, guests were treated to Channing Daughters’ Madeira-style Merlot called Pazzo (which translates as mad or crazy in Italian).

Who knew Merlot, and Long Island Merlot at that, could be so varied? If anyone says they don’t like Merlot, they have to be kidding. With five completely different styles of wine, one would be hard pressed not to find at least one to their liking.

  • Pugliese Vineyards, Sparkling Merlot 2003, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA
  • Lieb Family Cellars, Merlot Blanc 2010, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA*
  • Croteaux, Merlot 314 Rosé 2010, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA
  • Long Island Merlot Alliance, Merliance 2008, Long Island (NY), USA*
  • Lenz Winery, Estate Merlot 2001, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA
  • Channing Daughters, Pazzo 2004, The Hamptons (NY), USA *

*With gratitude to the producers for their gracious generosity.

New Wines from Old Vines – Ravenswood’s Single-vineyard Zins

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“There’s a lot of Zin’ because that’s what I do.” So began Joel Peterson, founder and winemaker of Ravenswood, as he welcomed us to dinner at Blue Hill in mid-June. Concerned that one might jump to the conclusion that these are monster wines, Peterson was quick to describe his Zins as being “in proportion” with “lovely character”. He further advised that he grew up drinking European wines, which informs his winemaking to this day. The winemaker also insists that Zinfandel is expressive with regard to terroir. And, in that vein, he proceeded to show us his single-vineyard Zinfandels from low yielding, old vines as proof.

A founding member of ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates and Producers), Peterson is intimately familiar with Zinfandel’s history. As modern DNA analysis has shown, the variety dates back to Croatia as a descendent of Crljenak Kaštelanski (I don’t know how to pronounce it either). However, Zinfandel arrived on America’s shores in 1824, landing first in the Ravenswood section of Queens then making its way to California in the 1850s. By 1884, there were 30,000 acres planted there.

Yet despite this heritage, Peterson’s choice of company name is unrelated and simply coincidence. Rather, in 1976, when Peterson harvested his first crop of grapes, it began to rain. He hastened to pick all the grapes before the precipitation could ruin them and noticed during his work that two, large ravens watched him throughout the entire day. These black birds became his totem and, along with an operatic connection to Lucia di Lammermoor, an opera he favors, cemented the moniker. With its purported hypnotic design, the three entwined birds of his logo have become a much-requested tattoo.

Although he initially began his career in clinical research, Peterson was drawn to winemaking, serving first as an apprentice and then obtaining money to go out on his own. And, while many adults might credit their parents for sparking their curiosity in wine, few children can say that their arrival was the catalyst for a similar pursuit by their parents. Peterson can say both – that his parents influenced his interest in wine and that he is partly responsible for them ever getting involved in wine in the first place.

When Joel was born in 1947, his mother, a nuclear chemist, chose to leave the workforce and become a stay-at-home mom. Spending time in the kitchen instead of the laboratory, she taught herself to cook. Among her food-related reading, she noted that the French drank wine with their meals, a novel concept in U.S. culture at the time. Intrigued, she set out to buy a bottle of French wine for Thanksgiving; it took two weeks to find one in California, but her search was rewarded with a bottle of 1945 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The next purchase was a mixed case, which cost $15.00 and included Haut Brion and Château d’Yquem.

From this simple introduction, Joel’s dad went on to found the San Francisco Wine Sampling Club (now known as the San Francisco Vintners Club) and called upon his 10-year old son to smell, taste (and spit) the wines in order to identify simpler terms for describing the wines in his newsletter. To this day, Peterson says, “You can tell everything about a wine just by smelling.” Joel’s more formal education includes a degree in microbiology from Oregon State University.

Given his exposure to French wines, Peterson selected Zinfandel as his grape of choice because, to him, it was the most European variety in California at the time. While the Ravenswood Vintner’s Blend is much better known, Peterson actually began crafting single-vineyard designated wines from Sonoma County with that first, rainy vintage. His current range includes six, single-vineyard designated wines.

Having commented that he, “…like[d] acid and tannin; these are my friends,” during dinner, it was not surprising that both were evident as we tasted through the wines.

The Dickerson Vineyard, in Napa Valley, dates to 1920. Infected with the leaf-roll virus, the vines do not photosynthesize well, which leads to higher acidity in the grapes and the resulting wines. The 2008 is angular with bright red fruit.

Situated at the south end of the Alexander Valley, Big River Vineyard is comprised of volcanic soil. The wines it produces are “perfume-y and pretty” and the 2008 was no different with its elegance and long length.

Owned by the Belloni family, Ricardo (now deceased) used to make wine from his own grapes as well as sell them until he tasted Joel’s Belloni Zinfandel, feeling that the grapes were better in Joel’s hands than his own. Referred to as a “big bruiser” by Peterson, this Zinfandel is co-fermented as a field blend with Alicante Bouschet, Carignane and Petite Sirah. The 2008 showed rich, jammy fruit with soft tannins.

Named for BARbara and PatRICA, the Barrica Vineyard is located in the Sonoma Valley appellation. Originally established in 1860, this historic vineyard was owned by George Hearst, father of William Randolph Hearst, and, in 1885, was the first vineyard in California to be planted on American rootstock. The 2008 displays distinct structure and weight with blueberry, vanilla and floral aromas.

The certified organic, Old Hill Ranch was the first non-Mission vineyard and contains roughly half Zinfandel and half “mixed blacks,” some of which that have yet to be identified. The wine itself is composed of 75% Zinfandel and 25% mixed blacks and is the spiciest of the 2008 line up.

From Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley, Teldeschi’s vines include Zinfandel, Carignane and Petite Sirah, which are fermented separately. Peterson described this wine as “big,” “beautiful” and with “rich cherry and vanilla.” In addition to the usual bramble fruit, the 2008 had smoky aromas along with dried herbs.

Shifting attention somewhat away from Zinfandel toward the end of the night, Peterson presented us with two more wines –the ICON Mixed Blacks, a field blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane and Alicante Bouschet and his proprietary red blend, Pickberry Red.

The former is the “once and future wine of California” representing grape varieties that were planted prior to 1920, while the latter, from Sonoma Mountain, is a Bordeaux-style wine. The 2007 Pickberry is a blend of 58% Merlot and 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, without the usual Cabernet Franc he usually adds, due to vintage conditions.

Regardless of which vineyard’s grapes were in the glass, none of the wines had what Peterson refers to as the “three sins of Zin – too much sugar, alcohol and/or oak.” They were all beautifully balanced and did, indeed express the individual terroirs.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Everything Old is New Again – South African Wines (August 2011)

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With its 350 years of winemaking history, South Africa should qualify as an “old” wine region. However, after years of decline and isolation during apartheid, the country is relatively new to the modern wine world having only been on the world stage for two decades.

Initially set up as a way-station for Dutch East India ships bound for Asia in search of spices and other exotic goods, the Cape Colony was established in 1652, with vineyards planted in Cape Town as early as 1655. By the mid-1700s, South Africa’s wines, particularly the famed Constantia, were the toast of Europe fetching high prices at auction and sought after by emperors and kings. But, the triple threat of oidium (vine disease), phylloxera (vine louse) and the Suez canal decimated the industry. While the KWV, established in 1918, helped to stabilize grape prices, the emphasis was on quantity, not quality. Moreover, despite the development of its Wine of Origin scheme, which shifted attention toward integrity in 1973, the boycott of South African products during the period of apartheid severely limited the market for their wines.

Then, beginning in 1990 with the release of Nelson Mandela, the repeal of apartheid lifted the ban and South African wine producers found themselves in the world market once again. Beyond providing new places to sell their wines, exposure to other wine regions presented the opportunity to learn new winemaking techniques, which they readily did. Today, South African wines garner international acclaim, taking home gold medals in competitions and even landing on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines List.

South Africa’s emblematic grapes are Chenin Blanc and Pinotage. The former has lived a bit of a Cinderella story, beginning life as a workhorse grape and then becoming recognized for the high quality it can produce when treated properly. Ken Forrester has been a champion of the grape and produces four different Chenin Blanc wines. Pinotage is uniquely South African having been developed there in 1925 as the offspring of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut (then called Hermitage). This grape has a notorious reputation, with most winemakers stating a distinct love or hate for it. Depending upon with whom you speak, it is either capable of great depth and concentration when planted in the right places (Anthony Hamilton Russell of Hamilton Russell Vineyards) or should be dismissed altogether (Gyles Webb of Thelema).

Moving outside the established wine regions of Constantia, Stellenbosch and Paarl, winemakers are searching out new areas for planting vines. Charles Back of Fairview is the revolutionary credited with the colonization of Swartland. This rugged region located only one hour north of Cape Town offers up a diversity of soils, but regardless of the type, all of them permit dry farming (non-irrigated). Further, several older vineyards of Chenin Blanc and Pinotage have shown great potential here, as have warm climate grapes such as Spain’s Tempranillo and France’s Grenache and Mourvèdre.

Winemakers looking for cooler climates have traveled south to the coast. Hamilton Russell’s father, Tim, gravitated to the clay-rich soils of Hemel-en-Aarde near Walker Bay for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Similarly, Gyles Webb found Elgin, previously known for its apple orchards, to be a suitable area for Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay (and his pocket-book due its lower real estate prices).

Among other new initiatives, South Africa has been on the forefront of land preservation and biodiversity promotion. To that end, it instituted a new seal with the 2010 vintage that merges its Integrity with its Sustainability programs. Additionally, South Africa has more fair trade wines than any other country.

As abandoned estates are purchased, vineyards renewed and cellars rebuilt, South Africa is poised for continued success as it re-establishes its reputation as a fine wine producer. And, with Klein Constantia’s Vin de Constance – a re-introduction of the famed Constantia wines, truly everything old is new again.

TASTING NOTES

Sutherland, Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Elgin, South Africa, $15.00
From an up-and-coming cool climate region and Gyles Webb’s new label, this wine is dry, with bright grapefruit, slight grass and a hint of minerality. Lacking the pungency of a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, it is more fruit focused with racy acidity.

Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc 2010, Stellenbosch, South Africa, $14.00
The Reserve range of Ken’s three tiers of Chenin Blanc, this wine is produced from hand-harvested fruit picked from 37 year-old vines. Baked apple, honey and citrus aromas persist on the rich, round palate and throughout the wine’s long length.

Russell Hamilton Vineyards, Pinot Noir 2007, Hemel-en-Aarde, South Africa, $40.00
Acknowledged as the pioneer of South Africa’s Pinot Noir, Russell Hamilton is producing worldclass wines as evidenced by this wine’s appearance on Wine Spectator’s list of the top 100 wines for 2009. The nose greets with savory, dried herb notes, which give way to earth and herbal flavors on the complex palate, culminating in long length.

Nederberg, Ingenuity Red 2008, Western Cape, South Africa, $NA
Produced from a blend of Sangiovese, Barbera and Nebbiolo, Nederberg planted these Italian red varieties to see how they would do and then aged the wine in older Romanian oak. The result is a wine with aromas and flavors of spice, wood and berry/cherry. Medium tannins provide some structure, but don’t overwhelm the palate.

Xavier Flouret, uQamata 2007, Polkadraai Hills, South Africa, $20.00
A collaboration between Xavier Flouret and Amani winery, which boasts the first female black winemaker in South Africa, this Bordeaux-style blend includes Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Savignon. Aromas of berries, smoke and spice dominate the nose while the palate shows blackberry, slight herbaceousness and spices that linger throughout the long length.

JBF Chefs and Champagne – Out of the kitchen, but still in the heat

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Martha Stewart, Emeril Lagasse, Pascal and Susan Ungaro

It was hot or, perhaps more accurately, as Matthew Broderick quipped in Biloxi Blues, “It was Africa hot.” Of course, that would be acceptable if we were in Africa, but as we were in The Hamptons, it was less so. Much less so. But despite the record-breaking heat index, chefs and event goers soldiered on and had a wonderful time at The James Beard Foundation (JBF)’s annual Chefs & Champagne event.

Arriving early, we availed ourselves of the Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d’Or 1999 and, glass in hand, set off in search of the best bites. We kicked it off with Richard Grenamyer of Jacksonville, FL’s The Blue Fish Restaurant and Oyster Bar. His soy and ginger-glazed tuna with wakame and wasabi cream provided a touch of heat, which went beautifully with the Champagne as did Marc Forgione’s Chile lobster with local corn and lemon verbena.

Among the notable chefs and their corresponding cuisine was Shea Gallante of Ciano with his yellow Basinga tomato gazpacho soup with Maine lobster, watermelon and basil. This dish was amazingly tasty and refreshing, providing welcome respite in the heat. I asked him if he had consulted the Farmer’s Almanac before submitting his menu, but he explained that previous experiences with these types of events had taught him to stick to cold food.

Perhaps braver for braving the heat, John Doherty, formerly with the Waldorf=Astoria and now ambassador for Certified Angus Beef, offered prime steak and eggs, but didn’t seem too wilted at the grill.

Pitching in to help colleague Spencer Minch (Emeril’s Delmonico), event honoree Emeril Lagasse himself handed me a plate of gulf white shrimp with traditional rémoulade.

Another JBF Award Winner, Marcus Samuelsson (Blue Parrot and Red Rooster) doled out chilled corn soup with marinated bass and tomatillo-cilantro purée, which was a definite crowd pleaser.

A few pastry chefs were also on hand, including Jennifer McCoy of Craft, whose olive oil cake with raspberry-lavender jam was the perfect ending to the evening, with its lightness and combination of savory and sweet.

As part of The James Beard Foundation’s scholarship fundraising event, three scholarships were awarded to local students, including the Christian Wölffer Scholarship, particularly poignant since the event was held at the eponymous winery in Sagaponak, NY. Next year, the JBF will offer a $5,000 scholarship in Emeril’s name.

A Fresh Look at Frascati

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Fontana Candida's winemaker, Mauro Merz

Long the ambassador for Italian wines, Frascati adopted a low profile as a light-bodied quaffer – easy to drink, but just as easily dismissed. However, when the focus shifts to providing a product that is, above and beyond, authentic and of the highest quality, this is a wine that can also offer a refreshing surprise.

Named for the town of Frascati within Lazio and proximate to Rome, the Frascati DOC was the first one established back in 1966. This traditional wine is a white blend comprised primarily of Malvasia de Lazio and/or Malvasia di Candia, along with Trebbiano Toscano, Trebbiano Gialla, Greco, Bombino (and somewhat more controversial, up to 10% of aromatic, international varieties, ie. Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc).

The leader in this region, Fontana Candida, believes that wine must bring joy; be made naturally; and be an expression of its place. With this philosophy in mind, the company continues to work on improving brand Frascati for both itself and the region at large. To that end, they hired an agronomist and offered his services free of charge to the local growers – small, family farms.

While the motive was admittedly selfish — they wanted to source better fruit — growers who bought into these changes have reaped the rewards of Fontana Candida’s largesse. Not only did they receive the free consultation, but now also earn significantly more for their grapes when selling to Fontana Candida. Moreover, at a time when the delimited area is shrinking due to Rome’s urbanization projects and an overall decline in grape prices, Fontana Candida has committed to maintaining its higher prices, paying up to 40% over the base in incentives.

The resulting wines show off the quality of vineyard work coupled with the true expression of tradition and terroir. The flagship Fontana Candida Frascati Superiore DOC (SRP $10.00) is fresh and fruity, but with the weight to stand up to food. And, of particular interest, they are capable of aging.

No really. A mini-vertical of their Vigneto Santa Teresa Frascati Superiore 1997, 2001 and 2004 wines proved the point in spades. Winemaker Mauro Merz stresses that the wines will not necessarily improve with time, they will evolve and last. With a certain gravitas, these wines displayed both elegance and depth. Whereas the young wine displayed fresher notes of green apple and a slightly savory aspect, the older wines showed honey, bruised fruit (pear and apple) and dried herbs. The most mature (1997) showed signs of age with a slightly oxidative character on the nose, but was still enjoyable with its palate cleaner than its nose.

Equally delightful were the producer’s Luna Mater wines (SRP $23.00). First produced in 2008 in celebration of Fontana Candida’s 50th anniversary, the wine is made with select lots from older vines averaging 50 years and aged in large Acacia wood casks (which was selected for its ability to bring out the best characteristics of Malvasia grape). However, the intention is not to dominate the wine with wood. Rather, the aging extracts the wood tannins, lending structure and longevity to the finished wines, the former of which was evident upon tasting these wines as were aromas and flavors of pear and almond.

With its motto “Quality above all,” it is clear that Fontana Candida is producing wines of depth, elegance and richness that can be enjoyed in their youth as well as their more golden years. Either way, the wines offered a fresh look at old faithful Frascati.

Navarra: Ancient Kingdom of Modern Wines

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Our mother made the pimentos, she tells us. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we sit outside under the shade of an arbor on a sun-filled summer’s day. An enormous feast is suddenly set before us – salad, sausages, tortillas, jamon, pimentos, cheese, while bottles of wine, tasted earlier at the Ochoa winery, stand at attention, ready to poured. We are joined by Adrianna, Beatriz and Pablo and are treated like dear old friends of the family.

A few days later, a modern box suspended high above the vineyards serves as the site for lunch. Javier points out the Otazu winery and other buildings on the estate from this vantage point. Juxtaposed, the two scenes seem unlinked, but, in fact, they are indicative of Navarra’s dichotomy of old and new co-existing throughout the region.

Two wolves adorn the Ochoa crest, the Basque word for which is ochoa. The family can trace its winemaking roots to a document dated 1370 in which Queen Juana (Carlos II’s wife) orders payment to wine merchant, Ochoa de Ayanz. Several towns away, in Ujué, a mural in a Romanesque church features a similar crest, almost as further evidence of the Ochoa heritage. Stretching back farther to the Romans, Navarra has been at the crossroads of many cultures for centuries. At Villa Romana de Arellano, the dolias unearthed by a farmer show that wine was an important product from the very beginning.

More currently, Ochoa has played a pivotal role in Navarra’s wine industry with Javier Ochoa’s role in establishing EVENA (Navarra Viticulture and Oenology Station). Continuing the family’s winemaking legacy, daughter Adriana recently took over as head winemaker and sister, Beatriz, handles marketing and sales. Reflective of Navarra’s international outlook, Adriana studied viticulture and enology in Bordeaux, France and worked the harvest in Australia before taking the reins from dad.

This duality of tradition and modernity can be seen over and over again in different forms. When we arrive, the town of Puente la Reina is bustling with activity – people sit outside in cafes and bars enjoying tapas and other treats in the summer’s afternoon. A veritable tower of Babel, a mix of languages and accents are heard as we catch snippets of conversations when we pass by. The year is 2011, but we would have found a nearly identical scene had it been 1211. Situated along the Camino de Santiago, Puente la Reina, in the heart of Navarra, is just one of the many towns that were built to provide the pilgrims with food and shelter as they made their way to Santiago de Campostela, bringing their customs and cultures as they passed through.

Further down the road, the well-worn and well-signed path snakes its way past a medieval castle at Castillo Monjardin. The castle and its eponymous winery are presided over by Sonia and her husband, Victor. While not part of Spain’s monarchy, there is a royal air about the place, which recalls Navarra’s history as a separate kingdom (maintaining its independence until it succumbed to the Castilian empire in 1512).  Planted to Chardonnay, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, their vineyards underscore Navarra’s link to France. In fact, the Compte de Champagne, Theobald, also held the title of King of Navarra.

Similarly, at Otazu, Javier leads us through the ancient cellars, stopping to point out an alter that dates to the 14th century. After walking the long corridor, we turn to our right and are confronted by a set of glass doors that serve as the entrance to the new barrel room. Though just steps away, we are suddenly transported seven centuries to what is best described as a modern temple truly dedicated to Bacchus, with 1,000+ French oak barrels resting under the vaulted ceiling.

Nearby, St. Martin de Unx’s winemaker proudly professes the winery’s commitment to Spanish varieties: Garnacha, Tempranillo and Viura. While the co-op sticks to traditional grapes, it is experimenting with Navarran oak, grown in local forests, and, as he is quick to point out, are the only ones to be conducting such trials, another point of pride. In a nod to the future, the winery also created a semi-sweet rosé to appeal to the younger generation of Spaniards who crave Coke® instead of wine.

Testing is also alive and well at Inurrieta, which planted Sauvignon Blanc before it became an authorized grape for the DO. Now, its two Sauvignon Blancs garner critical acclaim.

Produced from both native and international grape varieties, Navarra’s wines speak to the history and tradition of the region, while making room for what is to come. However, what is most striking about these wines is their quality. In tasting one after another, there was concentration, complexity and beautiful balance. Even more amazing, when inquiring about retail prices, most wines fall under $20.00, with quite a few under $15.00.

With its long tenure of winemaking, international influences and openness to trying new things, Navarra’s wineries remain true to this heritage. What the future holds for Navarra is anyone’s guess, but it is sure to be focused on innovation, while being strongly anchored in the region’s culturally diverse past.

 

Tasting Notes

Inurrieta Orchidea Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Navarra, Spain, $10.00
While Sauvignon Blanc is newly authorized for the region, Inurrieta produces two, with the Orchidea its unwooded venture with this grape. Aromas of citrus and tropical fruit give way to high acidity, citrus, especially grapefruit, with a slight floral note. The sur lie treatment adds some roundness to the palate, which culminates in medium+ length.

Castillo de Monjardin Chardonnay Reserva 2007, Navarra, Spain, $19.00
Castillo de Monjardin is the only one producing a Reserva-level Chardonnay. Having been barrel fermented and aged in French oak, this wine provides notes of apple, spice, butterscotch and vanilla on the nose. Its palate is full-bodied with apple, lime, spice and slight oak flavors. Overall, this wine is complex, bright and creamy, with long length.

Ochoa Rosado Lágrima 2010, Navarra, Spain, $11.00
Navarra is well-known for its rosés (aka rosados) and with good reason. The more “serious” of Ochoa’s rosés, the Lágrima is comprised of 50% each of Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon, with deep pink hue. Floral and berry aromas persist on the palate, along with depth and structure due to the wine’s slight tannic grip, herbal character and long length.

Senorio de Unx Reserva 2004, Navarra, Spain, $20.00
Produced from 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnarcha, the Reserva spent 15 months in a combination of French and American oak. The nose offers dried herbs, floral, spice and raisin, while the palate emphasizes dried figs, red fruit and sweet spice. With its medium+ tannins, full body and long length, this wine could continue to age and develop with time.

Otazu Pago de Otazu 2006, Navarra, Spain, $32.00
The Pago designation, which supersedes the DOCa level, was added to Spain’s wine laws in 2006 and is only awarded to very best estates (to date, there are only 10 Vinos de Pago throughout all of Spain). A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Tempranillo, this wine displays wet earth, dried herbs, red fruit and cinnamon on the nose. The full-bodied palate has medium+ acidity, medium tannins with notes of red fruit and earth, which linger in the long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Navarra – Ancient Kingdom of Modern Wines (July 2011)

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With summer in full swing, we hope you are taking advantage of the great weather and having fun!

While there are many fun activities taking place on the East End this season, consider attending the James Beard Foundation’s annual Chefs and Champagne. This star-studded event raises money for the foundation’s scholarships and will honor Emeril Lagasse. Featuring food from top toques (the chefs) and Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne, this gala celebration takes place at Wölffer Estate on Saturday, July 23, 2011. For more information, see the James Beard website.

Also, mark your calendar for the second annual HARVEST: Wine Auction and Celebration of Long Island’s East End, which will take place on September 17, 2011. Leading up to the big event, wine salons will be offered on September 3, 10 and 17, with Grand Cru Classes presenting a special Mad about Merlot session on September 10 at 11:00 AM.

Do chocolate and wine pair well together? Some say yes, some say no way! Settle the debate with our wine and chocolate tasting event on August 14. Roxanne Browning of Exotic Chocolate Tasting will share the world of artisanal chocolate from bean to bar, while Tracy will focus on the world of wine, with a delicious line-up of wines carefully selected to pair with Roxanne’s chocolates. Visit our website to sign up for this and all other classes.

Finally, we are also pleased to announce the Grand Cru Classes was featured in the first edition of CRAVE New York City – The Urban Girl’s Manifesto, which profiles local, women-owned businesses.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

Navarra: Ancient Kingdom of Modern Wines

Our mother made the pimentos, she tells us. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we sit outside under the shade of an arbor on a sun-filled summer’s day. An enormous feast is suddenly set before us – salad, sausages, tortillas, jamon, pimentos, cheese, while bottles of wine, tasted earlier at the Ochoa winery, stand at attention, ready to poured. We are joined by Adrianna, Beatriz and Pablo and are treated like dear old friends of the family.

A few days later, a modern box suspended high above the vineyards serves as the site for lunch. Javier points out the Otazu winery and other buildings on the estate from this vantage point. Juxtaposed, the two scenes seem unlinked, but, in fact, they are indicative of Navarra’s dichotomy of old and new co-existing throughout the region.

Two wolves adorn the Ochoa crest, the Basque word for which is ochoa. The family can trace its winemaking roots to a document dated 1370 in which Queen Juana (Carlos II’s wife) orders payment to wine merchant, Ochoa de Ayanz. Several towns away, in Ujué, a mural in a Romanesque church features a similar crest, almost as further evidence of the Ochoa heritage. Stretching back farther to the Romans, Navarra has been at the crossroads of many cultures for centuries. At Villa Romana de Arellano, the dolias unearthed by a farmer show that wine was an important product from the very beginning.

More currently, Ochoa has played a pivotal role in Navarra’s wine industry with Javier Ochoa’s role in establishing EVENA (Navarra Viticulture and Oenology Station). Continuing the family’s winemaking legacy, daughter Adriana recently took over as head winemaker and sister, Beatriz, handles marketing and sales. Reflective of Navarra’s international outlook, Adriana studied viticulture and enology in Bordeaux, France and worked the harvest in Australia before taking the reins from dad.

This duality of tradition and modernity can be seen over and over again in different forms. When we arrive, the town of Puente la Reina is bustling with activity – people sit outside in cafes and bars enjoying tapas and other treats in the summer’s afternoon. A veritable tower of Babel, a mix of languages and accents are heard as we catch snippets of conversations when we pass by. The year is 2011, but we would have found a nearly identical scene had it been 1211. Situated along the Camino de Santiago, Puente la Reina, in the heart of Navarra, is just one of the many towns that were built to provide the pilgrims with food and shelter as they made their way to Santiago de Campostela, bringing their customs and cultures as they passed through.

Further down the road, the well-worn and well-signed path snakes its way past a medieval castle at Castillo Monjardin. The castle and its eponymous winery are presided over by Sonia and her husband, Victor. While not part of Spain’s monarchy, there is a royal air about the place, which recalls Navarra’s history as a separate kingdom (maintaining its independence until it succumbed to the Castilian empire in 1512). Planted to Chardonnay, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, their vineyards underscore Navarra’s link to France. In fact, the Compte de Champagne, Theobald, also held the title of King of Navarra.

Similarly, at Otazu, Javier leads us through the ancient cellars, stopping to point out an alter that dates to the 14th century. After walking the long corridor, we turn to our right and are confronted by a set of glass doors that serve as the entrance to the new barrel room. Though just steps away, we are suddenly transported seven centuries to what is best described as a modern temple truly dedicated to Bacchus, with 1,000+ French oak barrels resting under the vaulted ceiling.

Nearby, St. Martin de Unx’s winemaker proudly professes the winery’s commitment to Spanish varieties: Garnacha, Tempranillo and Viura. While the co-op sticks to traditional grapes, it is experimenting with Navarran oak, grown in local forests, and, as he is quick to point out, are the only ones to be conducting such trials, another point of pride. Testing is also alive and well at Inurrieta, which planted Sauvignon Blanc before it became an authorized grape for the DO. Now, its two Sauvignon Blancs garner critical acclaim.

Produced from both native and international grape varieties, Navarra’s wines speak to the history and tradition of the region, while making room for what is to come. However, what is most striking about these wines is their quality. In tasting one after another, there was concentration, complexity and beautiful balance. Even more amazing, when inquiring about retail prices, most wines fall under $20.00, with quite a few under $15.00.

With its long tenure of winemaking, international influences and openness to trying new things, Navarra’s wineries remain true to this heritage. What the future holds for Navarra is anyone’s guess, but it is sure to be focused on innovation, while being strongly anchored in the region’s culturally diverse past.

 

Tasting Notes

Inurrieta Orchidea Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Navarra, Spain, $10.00
While Sauvignon Blanc is newly authorized for the region, Inurrieta produces two, with the Orchidea its unwooded venture with this grape. Aromas of citrus and tropical fruit give way to high acidity, citrus, especially grapefruit, with a slight floral note. The sur lie treatment adds some roundness to the palate, which culminates in medium+ length.

Castillo de Monjardin Chardonnay Reserva 2007, Navarra, Spain, $19.00
Castillo de Monjardin is the only one producing a Reserva-level Chardonnay. Having been barrel fermented and aged in French oak, this wine provides notes of apple, spice, butterscotch and vanilla on the nose. Its palate is full-bodied with apple, lime, spice and slight oak flavors. Overall, this wine is complex, bright and creamy, with long length.

Ochoa Rosado Lágrima 2010, Navarra, Spain, $11.00
Navarra is well-known for its rosés (aka rosados) and with good reason. The more “serious” of Ochoa’s rosés, the Lágrima is comprised of 50% each of Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon, with deep pink hue. Floral and berry aromas persist on the palate, along with depth and structure due to the wine’s slight tannic grip, herbal character and long length.

Senorio de Unx Reserva 2004, Navarra, Spain, $20.00
Produced from 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnarcha, the Reserva spent 15 months in a combination of French and American oak. The nose offers dried herbs, floral, spice and raisin, while the palate emphasizes dried figs, red fruit and sweet spice. With its medium+ tannins, full body and long length, this wine could continue to age and develop with time.

Otazu Pago de Otazu 2006, Navarra, Spain, $32.00
The Pago designation, which supersedes the DOCa level, was added to Spain’s wine laws in 2006 and is only awarded to very best estates (to date, there are only 10 Vinos de Pago throughout all of Spain). A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Tempranillo, this wine displays wet earth, dried herbs, red fruit and cinnamon on the nose. The full-bodied palate has medium+ acidity, medium tannins with notes of red fruit and earth, which linger in the long length.

Desperately Seeking Clarity in Chianti

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Chianti DOCG is the largest Italian region producing 105,000,000 bottles annually from 2,650 producers with a total of 10,500 hectares planted in the region. However, its landscape is quite fragmented with more than 1,000 Chianti producers owning less than 1 hectare. With the U.S. as a major market for this wine, Chianti is trying to reshape its image in the minds of the American consumer. To that end, Chianti has seen some rebounding as the economy has improved, with significant growth in the over $29.00 sector and smaller gains in the $10.00-$15.00 retail band.

Among its efforts, a trade tasting was held in New York on behalf of Chianti’s Consortio. Welcoming everyone, panel moderator Robin Kelley-O’Connor, set the stage stating that the day’s event was all about “Taking the confusion out of Chianti.” He underscored his point, promising to provide attendees with “clarity.”

Robin then proceeded to go through a Powerpoint presentation, which began with Chianti’s timeline, beginning in 1932 with the first formal demarcation of the area. By 1967, Chianti regulations were updated to establish the region as a DOC and then, in 1984, to promote its status to DOCG. Since 1996, there have been numerous regulation changes, but most of them have been minor as far as the consumer is concerned, i.e. reorganization of the Consorzio.

The presentation also highlighted the historic grape varieties permitted in Chianti – Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Trebbiano and Malvasia, the latter two are white grapes. Among Sangiovese, there are 20 approved clones in total, with C Futuro 1, C Futuro 2, C Futuro 3, and C Futuro 4 being the most used.

The region’s emphasis on clones addresses the climatic and soil differences within the large geographic area. The Consorzio’s President, Giovanni Busi, stressed that the use of clones has significantly improved Chianti’s quality, which ultimately led to the changes in the Chianti “formula” which now permit the use of 100% Sangiovese and mandate a minimum of 70%. However, Busi also stressed that 40% of the vineyards need to be replanted in the next few years to achieve further quality and improve productivity.

Aside from Sangiovese, the balance of the wine may be produced from 30% Tuscan regional varieties (such as Canaiolo), of which a maximum of 10% may be white varieties. This is a big change from the original legislation which required producers to blend with white grapes. A producer looking to incorporate Cabernet Franc or Cabernet Sauvignon in his or her wine is limited to a maximum of 15%.

To achieve the Chianti Superiore DOCG designation, the wines must be produced from lower yields and a slightly higher minimum alcohol level (10.5% for Chianti, 11% for Chianti from the subdistricts and 11.5% for Superiore).

So far, the audience seemed to be following the presentation. Then things got tricky when the conversation turned to the Riserva designation. The regulation was stated as being a minimum of two years of aging from January 1 following the harvest, plus an even higher minimum alcohol level of 12%. But, it was far from clear as to whether and, if so, for how long, the wine must be aged in wood to earn the title of Riserva.

At first we were told 18 months, but later this period was amended to 6 months when we tasted the first wine and there was no mention of oak aging on the tasting sheet. This oversight was attributed to a typo rather than a lack of wood by the producer. Unfortunately, in an attempt to confirm the actual law, neither the Consorzio’s website nor the beautiful brochure distributed at the event included a definitive answer. A brief search on the Internet later on did not yield one either.

After the formal presentation, Robin led the group is a tasting of Chianti Riserva DOCG wines from the 2007 vintage, which is considered to be a good vintage. While there were differences in styles among the wines, they all showed the classic Chianti aromas and flavors of tart red fruit (especially cherry) and leathery notes, with astringency on the palate.

Tasting Note Round-Up

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Sometimes, okay, often, I find that I have fallen behind on tasting various samples and subsequently publishing my notes. Accordingly, here is a round up of wines tasted in the past 18 months, with apologies to the sample senders for the delay.

Andeluna Cellars Celebración Reserve 2006, Tupungato, Argentina, $20.00
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot; 14.8% abv
The first vintage release of this wine, it is created as a Bordeaux-style wine, emulating the Left Bank in terms of the blend, but produced in a distinctly Argentine wine style.
Aromas: Blackberry, blackcherry, vanilla and cedar
Flavors: Very ripe fruit – blackberry, vanilla, cedar, slight spice
Structure: Medium+ acidity; ripe tannins; high alcohol; medium+ length
Conclusion: Very fruit forward, but with some complexity. The alcohol was slightly hot, but otherwise, the wine was balanced.

Folie à Deux Chardonnay 2009, Napa Valley, CA, $18.00
Winemaking: Just over 50% was fermented in small oak barrels. Post-fermentation, the wine was aged in French & American oak for six months.
Aromas: Butterscotch, vanilla, apple and peach
Flavors: Apple, nectarine, vanilla, spice, butterscotch and wood undercurrent
Structure: Medium+ acidity, full-bodied, medium+ alcohol, medium length
While the oak treatment is noticeable, it is well-integrated and wine shows some complexity.

Foppiano Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Russian River Valley, CA, $18.00
Winemaking: Stainless steel fermentation
Aromas: Tropical fruit and slight grassy note
Flavors: Lush fruit – peach, grapefruit, pineapple
Structure: Dry with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, slight heat and long length

Foppiano Rosé 2009, Russian River Valley, CA, $15.00
55% Petite Sirah and 45% Pinot Noir
12 hours of skin contact, then bled off (saignée method); 6 months aging in neutral French oak barrels
Aromas: berry, floral and blossom
Flavors: Herbal and strawberry
Structure: Bone dry, medium+ acidity and high alcohol
A clean and crisp wine with nice fruit concentration, but slightly hot (not surprising given the 14.2% abv).