Compared to many other industries, working in wine often does not feel like work. Such was the case on a recent Sunday afternoon when I had the pleasure of meeting Amelia Garrido and her husband, John. Amelia is the winemaker for Bodega Eduardo Garrido, a small, 4-hectare family estate in Spain’s Rioja region.
The winery was initially founded by 1923 by Vincente Garrido, Amelia’s grandfather. While Amelia’s father, Eduardo, now 86 years old, is still actively involved, Amelia is now at the helm of the operation, expanding the range of wines they produce. In this regard, she recently crafted a beautiful, unoaked white from Viura grapes, Blanco 2018. It was a vibrant, fresh wine which paired especially well with olive tapenade, but easily married with the wide range of tapas on the table.
Hosted at the home of Amelia’s importer, Sunday brunch was infused with typical Spanish cuisine and warm camaraderie. We ate, we drank and we laughed. New acquaintances quickly became fast friends as we broke bread and shared a wonderful meal with one another. Amelia regaled us with wonderful stories about her grandfather who knew not to accept the offer of cheese when tasting wines since the cheese would mask any potential faults in the wine as well as that of her husband, joking that he proposed to her at the top of a hill when she showed him her family’s estate and he mistakenly thought that it was a much larger estate.
Admittedly, I didn’t take proper tasting notes because I was too busy having a great time, but I assure you that all of the wines were lovely! In addition to the Blanco 2018, we tasted the Joven 2018 (100%Tempranillo, 20% of which was aged in oak for 3 months), Crianza 2015, Reserva 2014, and Gran Reserva 2007.
In general, Amelia prefers to use older oak, eliminating extremes in her wines. She says that the most important thing is good grapes; everything else comes from that.
As a former playground for the Kings of France, the Loire Valley is awash in luxurious castles, but it is equally awash in wonderful wine! Here, grapes have been grown for centuries, dating to the Romans who first planted in the Pays Nantais. Yet it wasn’t until the 5th century that things really got started with some of the earliest mentions of the area’s vineyards made in 528 by Gregoire of Tours in which he cited those in Sancerre and Touraine.
Later, the Loire’s viticultural heritage was squarely in the hands of the church, strongly influenced by both the Augustine and Benedictine monks who understood not only how to make great wine but also how to communicate about and distribute the wines. In this regard, they took full advantage of the local rivers’ safer travel (compared with the roads).
The region’s wine acclaim was further boosted by Henry II Plantagenet, Count of Anjou, when he became king of England in 1154 and permitted only Anjou wines to be served at court (it’s good to be king!), a custom continued by his successors, John Lackland and Henry III.
Today, while often known for its aromatic whites, the Loire Valley is also very adept at crafting high quality reds, namely from Pinot Noir, Gamay and Cabernet Franc. These grapes and others typically deliver fresh, fruity, food-friendly options and should be easily found in your local wine store.
Need some inspiration? Befitting the region’s long and illustrious history, these three wines beautifully illustrate the elegance and ease that the reds of the Loire Valley provide.
Hippolyte Reverdy It’s possible that the Hippolyte Reverdy family has made wine as far back as 1600, but it wasn’t until the end of World War II that they began to increase their production, eventually bottling greater and greater quantities under their own label and no longer selling their grapes to the local coopérative. The winery is presently in the hands of Michel Reverdy who joined in his family’s estate in 1971.
Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre Rouge 2016, Loire Valley, France Sourced from 30-year old Pinot Noir vines, this wine displays aromas of berries, cherries and dried herbs. The light-bodied palate is really nice, with fruit-driven cherry flavors, a slightly rustic character, along with an earthy/herbal undercurrent in the long finish.
Domaine du Petit Clocher Presently managed by the fourth successive generation, this estate has grown from 5 to 80 hectares over 50 years. Yet, it remains true to its roots, favoring traditional wine making practices.
Domaine du Petit Clocher, Anjou 2016, Loire Valley, France This 100% Cabernet Franc offers up wet leaves, dried herbs. The dry palate displays medium+ acidity, medium to full body, grainy, textural tannins, raspberry, herbaceous notes and long length.
Chateau de Coulaine This family-owned winery has been operating continuously since 1300! Etienne de Bonnaventure has been at the helm of viticulture and winemaking responsibilities since 1988 and was joined by his son, Jean, in 2014. The 12-hectare estate is planted exclusively to Cabernet Franc, with the vineyards farmed organically.
Chateau de Coulaine Chinon 2017, Loire Valley, France A beautiful nose of mulberry, blueberry and cranberry gives way to wet leaves, with a textural palate of medium, ripe tannins, medium+ body, high acidity, oak and leafy flavors and long length.
Situated in Castellina in Chianti, Tenuta di Lilliano has developed a well-earned reputation for crafting high-end, Chianti Classico wines. Its wines have been lavished with praise and high scores by Gambero Rosso, Wine Enthusiast, Doctor Wine and James Suckling, among others, but, most recently, its grapes received a resounding seal of approval when a 150kg cingale (wild boar) stormed through a stainless steel fence guarding the vineyards, just around harvest time!
The joint human and wildlife admiration for this 460-hectare, family estate is well placed. Purchased in 1920, it wasn’t until 1958, when then owner, Princess Eleonora Ruspoli Berlingieri, began to focus the estate’s production on quality. Interestingly, she hired a winemaker who did not drink wine, but who had an amazing palate and was able to create the best wines.
At the time, the Tenuta was unique in aging its wines in Bordeaux barrels and was one of the first producers to emphasize aging of their wines. Since then, the winery has continued to pursue its quality mission, building a new cellar in 1976, refining its agricultural approach (such as not mowing in between rows of vines) and reviewing its mix of varieties to hit upon the best expression of the grapes in their blends. In the winery, they take a light hand with oak, seeking elegance with only a little bit of wood, preferring larger, older vessels and firmly placing the focus on Sangiovese, the key variety of the region.
Sadly, the Princess passed away in the early- to mid-2000s, but Tenuta di Lilliano is still under the ownership of Princess Eleonora’s descendants, namely Giulio Ruspoli and Pietro Ruspoli, the former of whom runs the estate. With a vaunted heritage, the Ruspoli family traces its lineage to both Renaissance Tuscany and 17th century Rome, where the family continues to occupy the Ruspoli Palace. Recalling this esteemed background, the wines bear the joint coats of arms from the Ruspoli and Berlingieri families.
Yet despite these noble connections, the family is decidedly down to earth as evidenced by the warm welcome received by several wine writers who recently met with Alessandro Ruspoli at Marea Restaurant. Alessandro, son of Pietro, represents the estate internationally and was in New York to share his wines with the press and trade.
While Teunta di Lilliano produces a full complement of Tuscan wines and grappa, our agenda for lunch was squarely on Chianti Classico. Accordingly, we tasted the three levels of this wine: Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva and the newer, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. Each wine was beautifully paired with its own course, thanks to Brand Ambassador, Tony DiDio (of TD Selections)’s practiced palate.
A blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino and 5% Merlot, the Chianti Classico 2016 (SRP $20) was fermented in concrete and then aged for 12 to 14 months in large, French casks. It was paired with Fusilli served alongside a rich and decadent, red wine-braised octopus with bone marrow. The wine offered up clean and classic aromas of cherry, black cherry, leafy/herbal notes, giving way to lovely tannins and acidity on the fresh, elegant palate, culminating in long length.
Served with Polletto pan roasted chicken breast, fennel, artichoke and snap pea, the Chianti Classico Riserva 2015 (SRP $32) was produced with 100% Sangiovese and aged for 15 months in large French casks. Traditional in style, the wine is very elegant and long lasting, with red fruit, dried herbs, and noticeable, but well-integrated, wood/oak that lingers in the long finish. In the future, it is anticipated that the Riserva will become a blend instead of a mono-varietal going forward as they determine the direction of the Gran Selezione.
In keeping with the family’s forward thinking, Tenuta di Lilliano was one of the first properties to have a Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. Launched in 2010, this new, higher quality tier, requires longer aging and better quality grapes to qualify for the category. Alessandro acknowledges that it was created to shed light on Tuscany during a low time, but feels that they have wisely used the opportunity to develop a new, high quality wine, crafted from a particularly prized vineyard. In this regard, they have made a single vineyard Cru with 100% Sangiovese, with the intention of showcasing the the best expression of the variety, making a wine that is even better than their Riserva.
Presented with a trio of cheeses, the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2015 (SRP $36) displayed deep dark red and black fruit, with a beautiful hint of spice. Its palate offered up bright acidity, medium+ body, fine grained tannins and very long length.
It is clear that these wines honor Princess Eleonora’s lasting legacy and will continue to garner attention; they just need to figure out a better way to keep out the wild boars!
On what was a long overdue visit to the U.S. (and only his first time in New York), Domane Wachau’s winemaker Heinz Frischengruber poured a collection of his wines for the media at Aureole restaurant. Owned by 250 families, the Domane Wachau estate is located in Austria’s highly esteemed Wachau wine region, which is an UNESCO heritage site for both its natural beauty and its culture. Viticulturally, the region is known for its cool climate, diverse soils, river influence and abundant sunshine.
Originally born and raised in the region, Heinz has been at Domane Wachau for fifteen years and has become an integral part of the team, focusing his quality efforts on viticulture and traditional winemaking techniques. Heinz’ family is also in the wine industry (his brother currently runs the family business), so he grew up with wine in his blood (or at least in his backyard).
Before arriving at Domane Wachau, Heinz previously worked in Germany, gaining experience at Geisenheim and also studied overseas as well to build his knowledge base. But, he had always wanted to work at Domane Wachau, which is very well known and respected in the area. Its 1,000 hectares are considered to be the best terroir in the region, many of which are situated directly on the Danube. Here, the steeply terraced vineyards must be worked by hand; in fact, one-fifth of the vineyards are not accessible by tractor due to the vertical nature of the terrain. In recognition for the challenges inherent in maintaining such vineyards, an association has been created to save the terraced vineyards for the next generation.
With the region’s mosaic of different soil types, microclimates, higher and lower altitudes, Heinz loves to play with single vineyards. In this regard, he noted, “You have to know your soils,” in determining which style of wine to make. Further, he understands his grape varieties, explaining that Riesling can adapt even better than Gruner Veltliner, calling Gruner a luxury variety due to its heightened need for water. Yet, it, too, can be grown on a variety of different soils, producing a versatility in wine styles, attributing marked spiciness in the variety when grown on terraced vineyards and stone fruit with a rounder, fatty profile when grown on loess soils.
In the vineyards, there is a strong commitment to sustainable agriculture and biodiversity. When asked about climate change, Heinz reported that there has been significantly less rainfall and the occasional crazy high temperatures (greater than 35o C) in recent years. Accordingly, canopy management is more important than ever to shade the grapes, retain acidity and avoid burning.
Once the grapes are in the winery, Heinz declares, “I’m a caretaker, not a winemaker.” A big fan of traditional winemaking, he prefers to utilize skin contact to produce fresh, elegant and spicy (read a peppery note – similar to the pyrazines found in Sauvignon Blanc) in his Gruner Veltliners. This skin contact also gives some tannic grip that adds to the complexity of the wines.
As we tasted through a collection of wines at lunch, it was clear that these were well-made, elegant and concentrated wines that provided beauty, balance and bang for your buck. In other words, they were simply wonderful!
TASTING NOTES
Domane WachauGruner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen 2018 – $18.00 Grown on steep terraced vineyards, this entry-level Gruner Veltliner offers up citrus and minerality on the nose. On the dry, medium-to-full bodied palate, it is rich and mineral on the palate with good acidity, stone fruit, peach pit and very long length.
Domane Wachau Riesling Federspiel Terrassen 2018 – $20.00 From the same entry-level line, the Riesling was more aromatic, with pronounced aromas of peaches, apricot, exotic fruit, pineapple, spiciness, flinty, and a hint of black pepper, which Heinz attributed to the soil. It was more concentrated, fuller-bodied and richer than a German Riesling, with medium acidity and long length.
Domane Wachau Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Ried Liebenberg 2018 – $25.00 Produced from the Ried Liebenberg single vineyard, which consists of very steep terraces and poor sandy soils, this wine offers up concentrated stone and mineral aromas. It was dry, but with riper fruit than the Terrassen GV, with apricot, stone, slight spice, displaying a structured, more terroir driven wine, with medium acidity, medium body and culminating in long length.
Domane Wachau Riesling Federspiel Ried Bruck 2018 – $25.00 Sourced from the winery’s coolest area, with grapes grown on south facing slopes, the Ried Bruck single vineyard Riesling greets the nose with white peaches, mandarin oranges, and marzipan. It had higher acidity than the Gruner Veltliner, with notes of smoke, petrol and wet stone on the long finish. Domane Wachau Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten 2016 – $46.00 We finished the meal with the outstanding Achleiten, a very steep single vineyard made up of dark stones and flinty soils that fades right into the Danube. The resulting wine was well structured with good aging potential, dominated by peach and mineral aromas and flavors. The fresh palate was concentrated with long length and sufficient body and complexity to pair with heavier dishes such as duck or beef.
NB: Established in 1983, Vinea Wachau celebrates wines of provenance made only from Wachau grapes. There are three different (and hierarchal) style categories ranging from lightest to the most concentrated, each represented visually by an Austrian symbol to reflect the unique style and heritage of each wine.
Steinfeder: Feather Lightest in style, with a maximum alcohol by volume (abv) of 11.5%.
Federspiel: Falcon Medium bodied, with an abv of 12-12.5% abv, always fermented dry, elegant
Smaragd: Lizard This highest category is reserved for dry, concentrated and complex wines, made from very ripe/late harvest grapes sourced from the best vineyards and fermented dry.
A flurry of events featuring the women of wine kicked off the season’s return after the summer hiatus. Admittedly, women in wine is both new and nothing new. As they say, behind every great man is a great woman. But, perhaps the more novel news is that women are now standing (in) front and center of (or at least next to) many men in the vineyards and wineries the world over.
While I missed it due to ill health, the Women in Australian Wine Awards honored the women who have made their mark in Australian wine. The world’s “first and only awards platform for women in wine,” was held on September 17 in New York.
Similarly, an event earlier in the month presented a wide range of Wines of Sicily, recognizing the women in this region. I had the opportunity to meet Lilly Ferro Fazio, Export Manager of Casa Vinicola Fazio, who shared her experiences in bringing together the women of her region and noting the challenges they faced amidst a very traditional/male-dominated society. She addressed the need to find support and resources to successfully manage both her job and the family household because her husband still expects her to fulfill a traditional spousal role in addition to her career.
Another wine woman bucking the trend of being a simple, stay-at-home mom, is Argentine winemaker, Susana Balbo who initially applied to study nuclear physics in Bariloche. Her parents would not permit her to leave Mendoza, but, not one to be deterred, she eventually became the first woman in Argentina to earn a degree in enology. By 2012 she had been named as one of the “Most influential women wine-makers” by The Drink Business magazine, and, six years later, was listed among “The 10 most influential women in the wine world” in the same publication.
Today, Susana Balbo produces wines in both Mendoza and Salta regions. Her wines are well respected and can be found in the market under two labels: her namesake Susana Balbo and her Crios line. The Crios portfolio recently underwent a makeover, sporting new packaging that emphasizes the wines’ elegance and classic nature. Available in four different varietal options, the wines were recently released in the New York market.
Crios Torrontes 2018, Cafayate (Salta) and Valle de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00 Pronounced nose with floral, tropical fruit, hint of cotton candy and a dry, yet ripe, palate with medium-to-full body, medium acidity and long length.
Crios Rose 2018 of Malbec, Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00 Notes of strawberry, cherry and watermelon greet the nose. The palate is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, culminating in long length.
Crios Malbec 2018 Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00 Deep in color, this wine displays fresh and dried herbs and blackberry aromas, which are joined by spice and red fruit flavors on the dry, full-bodied palate, with good length.
Crios Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00 The nose offers up lovely red and black fruit, which persist on the dry, full-bodied palate, with textural tannins, blackberry, black cherry, oak, with good acidity and long length.
Upon arrival in the Italian region of Alto Adige, the scenery and topography make a powerful statement. Greeted by snow-topped peaks, verdant mountains and Swiss chalet-style architecture, you would half expect Julie Andrews to suddenly appear and belt out songs from the Sound of Music. This northern-most province borders both Austria and Switzerland and was under Austrian rule until 1919. And, to this day, both Italian and a dialect of German are the official languages, with over two-thirds of the population speaking German as their native tongue.
Rather, instead of hearing from Julie or the von Trapp family, the hills of South Tyrol (Südtirol) are alive with the sound of viticulture. And, despite its limited size (when considered separate from Trentino, Alto Adige is the smallest of Italy’s 20 regions), 98% of its production is at the Protected Designation of Origin level – the most of any Italian region!
With the Dolomites to the East and the Alps to the north, these mountain ranges shelter the area from the cold forces of the North and trap air from the lakes and limit the annual rainfall, resulting in 300 sunny days per year. Conversely, the strong Ora winds coming off nearby Lake Garda help to temper the summer heat. Given this duality of cooling and warming influences, Alto Adige is home to both Mediterranean and Alpine botany along with vineyards and apple orchards.
Not surprisingly, given these climatic conditions, the region is highly regarded for its white wines, which account for 60% of regional production. However, it also boasts some spectacular reds as well. In general, the steep slopes at the highest elevations (820 to 2800 feet) are given over to white varieties, while the lower, rolling hills are planted to reds. The high-altitude vineyards benefit especially from the area’s wide diurnal shift, permitting the grapes to ripen fully, while retaining high levels of acidity. Moreover, the region’s diverse soils, which include limestone, quartz and volcanic porphyry, further retain acidity and add minerality to the wines.
Wine glasses are given over to over 20 different varieties, with many indigenous grapes taking center stage. In addition to Pinot Grigio and Gewurztraminer, the white Kerner, an aromatic hybrid of Trollinger and Riesling, has been widely grown in the area. Among the reds, Lagrein, a descendant of Teroldego has strong roots in Bolzano and stands out for its tannic structure.
Beyond the glass, the mix of German and Italian cultures extends to the kitchen where speck, knödel dumplings, brown breads and fruit strudels make their way to the plate. But, regardless of what you have on your plate, these two wines should be equally welcome in your home.
Strasserhof Kerner 2017 Valle Isarco Alto Adige, Italy This wine offers up a limited fruit profile on the nose and palate, but makes up for it in fresh acidity, beautiful minerality, lean body and long length.
Castelfeder Burgum Novum Lagrein Riserva 2014, Alto Adige, Italy Inky, deep ruby in color, this wine displayed a brooding, intense nose of wet leaves, plum and dried red fruit, giving way to a dry, full-bodied palate, with bright acidity, medium+ ripe and resolved tannins, and long length with a smoky finish.
Vermouth is more often tossed into cocktails than sipped on its own. But, good Vermouth is great on its own. These aromatized wines combine fortified wine with an array of fruit, spices and herbs to create an intriguing combination of aromas and flavors.
Recently released by Gonzalez-Byass, the La Copa Vermouths feature not just any fortified wine, but Sherry! Available in two options: Extra dry and Rojo (Red), the La Copa Vermouths are definitely worth mixing into your next cocktail, but can easily be enjoyed as an aperitif or digestif.
Famed Sherry producer Gonzalez-Byass has a long history of producing Vermouth, with historical references at the company that date back to 1896. These new releases are based on the original recipes and the labels echo those found in their archives.
TASTING NOTES
Gonzalez-Byass La Copa Vermouth Extra Seco, $24.99 100% Palomino For this wine, Gonzalez-Byass selects a number of dry Fino Sherries, which have been aged for an average of 3 years and then are infused with an assortment of botanicals of wormwood, savory, clove, cinnamon as well as as red fruits. It is very floral on the nose, with herbs and baking spices. On the palate, it is dry, with just a hint of sweetness on the attack, beautifully balanced and fresh, with herbs, flowers and citrus lingering in the long finish.
Gonzalez-Byass La Copa Vermouth Rojo, $24.99 75% Palomino, 25% Pedro Ximenez This Vermouth brings together Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez Sherries that are more than 8 years old, with a blend of botanicals including wormwood, clove, orange peel, nutmeg and cinnamon. The wine is pale mahogany in color, with notes of mushrooms, herbs, spices, clove and cinnamon are most prominent. It is off-dry to medium sweet on the palate, full-bodied with medium+ length and flavors of bitter orange and spice. Overall, it is complex and very refreshing despite the sweetness.
While we are blessed to have thousands of grape varieties from which to choose, sometimes returning to an old favorite is a nice surprise. So, it you have been giving shade to Chardonnay lately, perhaps it’s time to turn your attention back to this great grape. And, Chablis is a perfect expression of this wonderful variety!
Located in the northernmost area of France’s Burgundy region, Chablis offers up fresh, pure fruit with predominant notes of citrus, green apple, limestone and other minerality. On the palate, it displays bright acidity, medium to full body and overall, well-made wines with balance and complexity.
The 2017 vintage was a classic one, but with smaller yields. Accordingly, there are fewer wines available, but those that were made are excellent. These wines are infinitely food friendly, ready to drink now, but will definitely develop more complexity with time in bottle.
The 2017 growing season’s weather conditions permitted the grapes to achieve full ripeness, but it was not overly hot, so acidity levels were retained – a hallmark of Chablis wines. Consequently, these wines are crisp, bright and fresh…. and perfect for the dog days of summer!
TASTING NOTES Domaine Chantemerle Chablis 2017, $27.00 Aromas of flint, apple and smoke greet the nose. On the palate, it is dry and full-bodied with high acidity, notes of apple, pear, a hint of melon and nuttiness, with long length.
Gilbert Picq et ses Fils Chablis 2017, $21.00 Displaying a shy nose with mineral and stone, this dry wine offers up high acidity, medium+ body, tidal pool and apple flavors, along with long length.
Chateau de Maligny Chablis 2017, $25.00 With an intense nose of minerality and green apple, this wine is dry, with very high acidity, medium+ body and flavors of green apple and flint, with very long length.
Domaine Vocoret & Fils Chablis 2017, $30.00 Notes of stone, gunmetal and green apple dominate the nose, giving way to more citrus flavors on the dry, bright full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.
Pinot Grigio can be challenging. There is a lot of insipid Pinot Grigio out there. As the grape became very popular, it prompted many producers to make cheap and cheerful wines that really don’t deliver on the quality and caliber that this grape has to offer. This wine is not one of those. Rather, Peter Zemmer’s Pinot Grigio is a delicious iteration of this great grape, that provides beautiful aromas and flavors and is wonderful on its own or with a meal.
Winemaker Peter Zemmer is a member of the third-generation of his family to take over the estate, which his grandfather established in 1928. Since that time, the brand has become widely recognized as a quality producer in Italy’s Alto Adige region. Previously part of Austria, this Italian region is known for its alpine vineyards, which see a significant number of hours of sunshine annually, ensuring that the grapes reach full maturity, but the high elevation means that they also maintain beautifully bracing acidity.
Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio 2018, Alto Adige, Italy, $18.00 Aromas of tangerine, citrus, mineral and hint of petrol greet the nose. On the palate, the wine offers up a hint of ripeness, but is generally dry, with medium+ luscious body, rich and concentrated, slightly oily texture unctuous, citrus, mineral, long length.
When you are in the midst of a heatwave in the height of summer, the last thing you want to do is turn on the stove or even leave the house. But, you still have to eat. Take-out is always a great option and the fresh and cooling flavors of sushi were exceedingly welcome this past Saturday night. We decided to mix it up a bit and opted for some more unusual rolls for a change, which provided a nice selection of flavors and textures.
To complement our delicious dinner, we opened up two Rieslings from Nik Weis’ St. Urbans -Hof estate in the Mosel. Both wines were the perfect pairing and we were hard-pressed to decide which one was better with which roll. So, we called it a tie. Either way, the wines were absolutely lovely and, at only $18.00 each, represented great value in high quality German Riesling.
TASTING NOTES
Nik Weis St. Urbans-Hof Estate Dry Riesling 2018, QbA, Germany, $18.00 While not new to the Nik Weis portfolio, this wine is new to the U.S. market; the Germans are finally ready to share their dry Rieslings with us! This wine showed pronounced aromas of floral, tropical fruit and peach, while the dry palate offers up high acidity with medium body, lime, zest, spice and minerality, culminating in long length.
Nik Weis St. Urbans-Hof Estate Estate Riesling from Old Vines 2018, QbA, Germany, $18.00 With a less pronounced nose, this wine displayed candied lemon and slight floral notes. Its off-dry palate was beautifully balanced with lively acidity, a fuller body, riper lemon fruit and long length.
