Category Archives: Wine Regions

White & Red from the Med

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I’ve been travelling around the Mediterranean lately, all without leaving home. Recent wine events took me from Israel and Turkey to Greece. While these aren’t the first places that come to mind when thinking about wine-producing countries, they each have a long history of viticulture and vinification and I was impressed with both the producers I met and the wines I tasted.

I kicked off the tour at a seminar debuting ROM from Israel. This wine is a joint project between Yarden’s winemaker Victor Schoenfeld and Zelma Long. Zelma was initially brought in to help with viticultural issues, but as she and Victor got to know each other better, a wine collaboration seemed to be a natural progression. This new wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Participants at the event had the opportunity to first taste through barrel samples of the individual wines, which truly illustrated how the three grapes come together to create a much greater whole. We next tasted three different vintages of the wine — 2006, 2007, and 2008, which highlighted the evolution of the wine in bottle. With limited production and its association with Zelma Long, this wine is likely to achieve a strong following.

Skipping across town instead of across the sea, I dined at Le Cirque with producers from Kavaklidere, Turkey’s largest winery, along with Mehmet Yorukoglu, president of House of Burgundy, the winery’s importer. Showcasing both indigenous and international varieties, the wines included a nice, crisp rose (Egeo Rose 2009) produced from Cal Karasi, Syrah and Grenache, with whites featuring Sauvignon Blanc, Narince and Chardonnay and reds made from Kalecik Karasi, Okuzgozu and Bogazkere. Working with French oenologist, Stephen Derencourt, the winery has seen significant growth and, more importantly, a signficant focus on quality, over the past several years. The wines were impressive, with a nice range of aromas and flavors distinguishing each wine.

The final stop on my tour was northern Greece with lunch at Marea with Evripidis Katsaros from Katsaros Estate; Thrassos Giantsidis, export manager from Estate Gerovassiliou; and Annegret Stamos, export manager from Biblia Chora. This dry and windy area produces mostly whites, but, over lunch, attendees tasted a wide range of both white and red wines. With training in Bordeaux, Gerovassiliou’s winemaker Evangelos Gerovassiliou has applied French winemaking techniques to indigenous grape varieties; similarly Katsaros has experience in Burgundy. Wines produced in this region have good acidity, but less so than the same grape, such as Assyrtiko, grown in Santorini. While import markets clambor for Greek varieties, the local market wants the diversity of international varieties as well, which accounts for the use of both in these wines.

TasteCamp East 2010 – A view from the vines

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Argetsinger Vineyard on Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes wine region

I spent this past weekend at TasteCamp East, which turned out to be a great event and a nice return “home” for me.

This was our first full participation in TasteCamp East since last year’s event was held on Long Island and, as residents of the region, felt that it would be duplicative to attend the various tastings. However, we did host the Saturday night dinner, which permitted us to meet most of the participants.

When we learned that the 2010 TasteCamp East would be held in the Finger Lakes, we were excited to be visiting all of the wineries. I attended Cornell University in Ithaca, NY, which is located within the Finger Lakes wine region, but had not really explored the region.  My sole exploration took place during Senior Week when I took a half-day wine tour offered by the College, which took us to Taylor and Bully Hill.

I credit these initial winery visits with whetting my appetite for wine at that time in my life and, in fact, found myself hosting a wine party that following summer. Each guest was asked to bring a bottle of wine, which I supplemented with a visit to our local wine store. I felt like a kid in a candy store, not knowing what anything was, but excited to be picking up a wide range of wines to expand my knowledge and palate. Even my mother was caught up in the wine frenzy that summer, foresaking White Zinfandel in favor of Pinot Grigio. And, with that, the world of wine was suddenly open…

Fast forward to this weekend’s festivities, which found us visiting wineries along Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga Lakes and tasting wines produced from vinifera and hybrid grape varieties. As an additional backdrop to the weekend, the Wine Century Club, an organization that lauds the diversity in grapes, celebrated its birthday on Friday, May 7. I was very impressed with the majority of the wines tasted and enjoyed the opportunity to meet a number of the winemakers, winery owners and vineyard managers, along with other winery employees.

While the focus was on wine, I met several people connected to Cornellover the course of the weekend and was pleased to hear of the positive impact that Cornell has had on the industry, both through the advice given by the Experimental Station in Geneva as well as its graduates, most of whom pre-dated the formal Viticultural program. My alumni pride, coupled with nostalgia for the area, prompted a brief  campus visit on the way out on Sunday evening, where I stood “far above Cayuga’s waters” remembering the day I first fell in love with Cornell.

Grand Cru Grapevine: The Magic of Monterey (May 2010)

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May finds us busy as a bee with Spring in full swing and Mother’s Day just around the corner. And, in a few weeks, the official launch to the Summer 2010 season, Memorial Day Weekend, will be upon us.

On May 18, Tracy will begin her 5-week Italian wine class at NYU’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies (Register through NYU now). Then, on May 20, she’ll head up to Poughkeepsie to present on the Long Island wine region for the It Was a Good Year tasting group. Next, it’s back to the North Fork on May 21 for a class presented in partnership with the Town of Riverhead’s Department of Recreation.

Finally, we invite you to join us From Vine to Wine as we kick-off our public schedule with our first class scheduled for Saturday, May 29, 2010 at 11:00 AM and a second class set for Sunday, May 30, 2010 at 1:00 PM (Mad about Merlot). 

On Thursday prior to the holiday, Hampton Jitney riders may find a Grand Cru Classes gift certificate at their seat, but you already have the inside track as a loyal reader of the Grand Cru Grapevine. Accordingly, we are pleased to extend the same offer to you – take 20% off a private event scheduled in 2010 or buy one ticket to a public class, get one free.

While you are waiting to head out to the Hamptons or the North Fork, you can sneak off to California’s Central Coast for a virtual visit of its vineyards with this month’s focus on “The Magic of Monterey.”

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick

COO: Cork Opening Officer

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THE MAGIC of MONTEREY

Like many places in California, Monterey is a magical place. Known as the salad bowl of the U.S., the county is home to numerous farms and driving along the highway one is privy to signs announcing, “Now growing…lettuce (or some other produce)”.

We had the great pleasure of visiting Monterey in 2007 when we attended the SWE annual conference being held there. Arriving at San Jose airport (which is a much cheaper flight than flying directly to Monterey’s regional one), we picked up our rental car and got ready to hit the road south. To truly put us in the California spirit, we had splurged on a convertible and, as soon as we were settled into the car, the top came down. Our options included the interior highway U.S. 101 or the coastal U.S. 1 (aptly named the Pacific Coast Highway). We chose the latter and proceeded to drive accordingly. While in the San Jose vicinity, the thermometer in car read 89oF and the breeze felt great flowing through our hair. This was soon to change in a surprising way.

Upon reaching U.S. 1, we drove south toward our destination and watched the temperature drop precipitously. By the time we were at our destination, it was 65oF. Quite a difference! The drive itself is only about an hour, so what accounts for the vastly different climates? Mountains. And, not only mountains, but their orientation to the Pacific Ocean. The Central Valley of California is shielded from the cold Humboldt Current off the Pacific Ocean due to the (mountain range) that runs north-south or, in other words, parallel to the coast. These mountains insulate the interior from this cooling influence and keep the temperatures high. Conversely, the coast is open to the current and significantly alters the temperature.

Moreover, when you actually get to Monterey, there is a gap in the mountains where they begin to run east-west or perpendicular, rather than parallel, to the ocean. This mountainous orientation plays a big role in the Monterey wine region, with the warmer air at the south-western end of the valley creating a vacuum that pulls the cooler ocean air downstream. Accordingly, the area of Santa Lucia Highlands is hospitable to cool-climate grape varieties, namely Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but also Riesling and Pinot Grigio. Temperatures range from 65oF-75oF with minimal temperature shifts and a long hang time-harvest is often as late as November. The warmer areas of southern Monterey and the Hames Valley are home to Cabernet Sauvignon and Rhone varietals respectively, which are able to ripen sufficiently given the higher temperatures found there.

Jerry Lohr of J. Lohr Vineyards noticed this unique terroir, particularly in the Arroyo Seco area, back in the 1970s and is among the pioneers in the region. More recently, others have recognized the potential and have established their own vineyards and wineries. Single-vineyard wines are particularly prized with a number of small, named vineyards earning stellar reputations. Gary’s, Talbott, [look up info]. Of course, wines from the wider Monterey County appellation are also produced and can be quite excellent as well. All in all, there are a wide range of microclimates, more than 55 varieties grown and ideal growing conditions to create balanced wines, resulting in true magic in a glass.

TASTING NOTES

Loredona Wine Cellars, Riesling 2007, Monterey, CA, $12.00
This wine shows lime, floral and peach blossom aromas. On the palate, it is slightly off-dry with vibrant acidity and flavors of peach, lime and floral notes, culminating in its long length. 10,000 cases produced.

Wente, Riva Ranch Chardonnay 2008, Arroyo Seco, CA, $20.00
In the 1930s, Wente was the first producer to label a wine as Chardonnay; today, Karl Wente is the fourth generation of his family to run the winery. This wine was barrel fermented and then aged for eight months in a combination of French, American, Eastern European and neutral oak. Aromas of spice, apple peel and a slight note of butter greet the nose. It is dry, with medium-full body and medium acidity. The palate offers up apple and well-integrated oak flavors of butterscotch, spice and an undercurrent of toothpick, finishing with long length.

Carmel Road, Pinot Noir 2007, Monterey County,CA, $16.50
This wine spent nine months in 98% French oak, 21% of which was new and 2% in American oak, 100% of which was new. Displaying raspberry, smoke and herbal aromas, this wine is dry with good acidity and low tannins. Notes of raspberry, cherry and smoke persist throughout its long length.

Lucienne Vineyards, Doctor’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Santa Lucia Highlands, CA, $35.00
Showing nice complexity, this wine has aromas of earth, herbal, raspberry and floral notes. Barrel aged for 14 months prior to bottling, its dry palate is very fruity with raspberry and herbal notes, coupled with an earthy undercurrent and balanced with bright acidity and long length.

Galante Red Rose Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Carmel Valley, CA, $35.00
Jack Galante, owner and winemaker, is the grandson of the founding mayor of Carmel. Aromas of blackberry, slight oak and slight eucalyptus dominate the nose. The dry, full-bodied palate shows balanced acidity and ripe tannins with notes of blackberry, oak and smoke.

A Tale of Two Lunches

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I woke up on a Monday morning in March with a reasonable agenda — an Italian wine tasting followed by a portfolio tasting. Thus, once I dragged myself out of bed (Mondays are the worst and rainy Mondays are even more horrible), I presumed that I would attend the two events, head home and get some work done in the afternoon (but, we all know about the best laid plans…).

I left our apartment at 10:00 AM to ensure a prompt arrival at the International Culinary Center (formerly known as the French Culinary Institute), which resulted in my being the first to arrive. The weather caused many attendees to be late and necessitated a late start to the event. However, after the delay, the event hit the ground running. It was a small, but dedicated group there to learn from both Adolfo Folonari of Ruffino and Cesare Casella of Salumeria Rosi on the theme of terroir.

Adolfo shared a brief history of Ruffino, noting that the company has been family owned for over 130 years, having been founded by two cousins. Adolfo’s family acquired the company in 1913, continuing the founders’ legacy and now maintains seven estates in the Tuscany region.  He then presented four wines — three of which were Chianti appellations and one Brunello di Montalcino. The wines were very good and showed the diversity within the Ruffino portfolio from the fresh and fruity Ruffino Chianti Superiore DOCG 2008 ($12.99 SRP) to the more complex Ruffino Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico DOCG 2006 ($24.99 SRP) and the modern Ruffino Santedame Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006 ($33.00 SRP).

Participants then had an opportunity to taste the wines again, this time paired with salumi (cured meats), presented by Cesare, who wore a red chef’s coat, with a sprig of rosemary taking the place of a pocket-square. The pairings were well-received, but of greater interest to me, was learning about the effect of terroir on this type of cuisine. For example, Cesare explained that in Alto Adige, the climate is too cold to salt cure the meat and consequently, they use a cold smoke instead. Similarly, in Calabria, smoking is used because it is too hot to use salt curing. In addition, the breed of pig also differs from region to region, affecting the final product.

We then moved from the formal presentation to the luncheon where guests enjoyed three additional salumi and four other Ruffino wines. We were particularly impressed with the Ruffino Lumina Pinot Grigio Venezia Giulia IGT 2009 ($9.99 SRP), which had vibrant acidity and good fruit concentration, from Ruffino’s property in Collio (Alto Adige). After the salumi were cleared, the menu included beans and tuna as well as short ribs with mushroom risotto, followed by vanilla panna cotta. We were seated at round tables and played a sort of musical chairs, with each table getting a chance to chat with Adolfo and Cesare for one course of the meal, as they made their way around the room.

During lunch, I received a phone call from the PR Coordinator at W.J. Deutsch, letting me know about an event that was taking place as she spoke. It sounded interesting, plus I had yet to get to the venue, sd26, so I switched gears and headed over to meet with Stefano Massa of Villa Massa.

I arrived at sd26 and was warmly greeted by Barbara Scalera, but, as I had been unable to find the restroom before departing ICC, I explained that I needed to first go to the Ladies’ Room before she and Stephano could have my undivided attention. The damp weather had wreaked havoc on my hair, but fortunately, I didn’t scare my hosts. I did my best to make myself presentable and was then led to a private dining room upstairs.

I was seated next to Stefano who promptly launched into a story about his journey into Limoncello. He noted that he and his brother, Sergio, were pioneers in crafting quality Limoncello of Sorrento. Stefano’s family had been producing Limoncello at home for family consumption, the recipe for which had been passed down for generations. Their guests really enjoyed their Limoncello and Stefano and Sergio saw an opportunity to produce the liqueur on a commercial basis. Most importantly, they are committed to maintaining the terroir and consequently only use natural ingredients, most notably the Sorrento Oval Lemon, which has had its own Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) since 2000.

About three-quarters of the way into his monologue, food was served, but the first order of business was to taste the Limoncello. Stefano first served it to me cold and then at room temperature. I was advised to first smell the liqueur before taking some onto my tongue and slurping in some air, in a similar fashion as one tastes wine. The fresh lemon aromas were obvious and even more so with the room temperature specimen.

Risotto was the dish of the day, making a second appearance, this time with scallops that had been marinated in the Villa Massa Limoncello. The second course was veal testina, which I didn’t particularly enjoy (the recipe calls for 1 veal head), but the dessert course was lovely. The Italian pastry, Baba, had been prepared with the Limoncello in place of the more traditional rum and was accompanied by a refreshing Limoncello sorbet. I also liked the use of the Limoncello in two cocktails I was served — the first being a blend of Limoncello and tonic water (I actually really like tonic water, so this was a nice “twist” for me). The second cocktail was a modified Mimosa, with Limoncello standing in for orange juice, resulting in a less sweet version of this popular brunch drink.

At a time when it seems that every spirit producer (and some wine producers) is trying to show the versatility of its product by using it as an ingredient, in cocktails or both, I found the Villa Massa Limoncello to be one of the more successful in this arena.

Having now eaten two lunches in a single day, I thanked my hosts and departed the restaurant. Unfortunately, it was now 4:30 PM and I would not have time to make it to the Dreyfus Ashby portfolio tasting as it ended at 5:00 PM and it would take at least that much time to travel to Ardesia Wine Bar, where it was being held. As I said, the best laid plans…, but of course, it was a great (if not fattening) day of tasting.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Where the Streets Have No Name (April 2010)

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Has spring sprung? Writing in mid-March, it certainly feels like it. After a brutal winter, we are itching to get out on the road again and breathe in the fresh air of wine country. A vicarious visit awaits you in our newsletter this month as we explore the numerically-named routes found within the wine regions of Napa, the North Fork, Paso Robles and Santa Barbara. 

Less vicariously, we invite you to hit the road, Jack (or Jill), and head east for our fun and festive wine and chocolate pairing event, held in conjunction with our next-door-neighbor, Macari Vineyards, and Chokola’j. Learn about Sex, Wine & Chocolate when Tracy will jointly present with relationship coach and sex educator, Marcia Baczynski and Susan Kennedy, co-founder of Chokola’j. Join us April 24, 2010 (this is a date change from what was previously announced) from 3:00-5:00 PM; $45.00/person. Kindly RSVP to Kimberly Grimmer at Macari via e-mail or phone (631-298-0100). 

If a trip out east is too far to go, you can catch Tracy in her NYU class, Italian Wines–From North to South, on five consecutive Tuesdays from 6:45-8:45 PM, beginning May 18. Register through NYU now. 

We are also thrilled to announce the launch of Tracy’s new website: It’s a Winederful Life, where she will endeavor to share her tales of “living la vida vino.” 

Drink wisely and well, 

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE 

CEO: Chief Education Officer 

and 

Jared Michael Skolnick 

COO: Cork Opening Officer 

———————————— 

WHERE THE STREETS HAVE NO NAME 

Given that wine regions don’t start out as full-blown wine regions, the touristy wine trails that eventually spring up frequently don’t have idyllic, wine-themed names for the roads and routes that bring visitors from tasting room to tasting room. Rather, the main drag that winds its way past winery after winery is more often like the U2 song – a place “where the streets have no name,” bearing instead the number of the local highway or route. 

While you might have been advised to ‘get your kicks on Route 66,’ those visiting the Napa Valley will be best off if they stick to the parallel wine trails along Route 29 and the Silverado Trail. The former is considered to be the more bustling and trafficked than the latter, but both are home to wonderful wineries lining the roads from Carneros to Calistoga. The highway of Route 29 has lent its “no name” to Vineyard 29, which released its first vintage in 1992. In 2000, Vineyard 29 was acquired by Chuck and Anne McMinn, who subsequently expanded the single vineyard into a full-scale winery, known primarily for its Cabernet Sauvignons. 

Across the country on the North Fork of Long Island, the two parallel roads are Route 25 (aka Main Road) and Route 48 (aka as both “the North Road” and Sound Avenue). Here, the climate is dramatically different – maritime vs. Mediterranean, but the wine trail has also served as inspiration for the eponymously named Vineyard 48. Originally Bidwell Vineyards, Vineyard 48 took on its new name in 2005 when the Sicilian-born, Rose Pipia purchased the property. Over the past 5 years, significant investments in the vineyard and winery have been made and today, the winery is known for its well-crafted wines. 

Back in California, visitors to Paso Robles should travel along Route 46, which meanders past many of the wineries located in Paso Robles West, and then, after crossing Highway 101, takes you along the east side of the region. On the west side of town, the vineyards and winery of Tablas Creek Vineyard are located a little over 8 miles north of Route 46. Founded by the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel in France’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape and wine importer, Robert Haas, Tablas Creek creates Rhone-style wines – both single varietal and blends – following organic viticultural practices. 

Still further south, California’s Santa Barbara County is home to a diverse wine region spanning from the Santa Maria Valley to Santa Barbara proper. With its unique microclimate, wineries nestled in the Santa Rita Hills specialize in the Burgundian varieties of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and are found along Highway 246. Here, vineyard manager and winemaker, Wes Hagen tends to the vines grown at Clos Pepe, adhering to sustaintable agricultural methods, including the use of a flock of sheep to assist with weeding. 


TASTING NOTES 

  

Clos Pepe, Vigneron Select Pinot Noir 2007, Santa Rita Hills, CA, $54.00
Although an appointment is required, it is well worth the effort to travel to this unique property. Wes will greet you himself, providing you with a personal tour of the vineyards, followed by a tasting in his parents’ beautiful home. On the nose, this wine has aromas of cherry, berry, dust and slight oak. Medium-bodied, with vibrant acidity, the wine shows flavors of strawberry, vanilla and a hint of oak, along with minerality in the long finish.

Road 31, Pinot Noir 2006, Napa Valley, CA, $38.00
Owner and winemaker Kent Fortner’s parents both grew up on family farms in rural Kansas, not far from Road 31, a route he has traversed in his 1966 Ford pick-up truck too many times to count. With cranberry, floral and herbal aromas, this medium-bodied wine is dry with medium acidity and bright fruit flavors of raspberry, cranberry and a hint of baking spice.

Tablas Creek Vineyard, Cote de Tablas Blanc 2008, Paso Robles, CA, $25.00
This blend of 42% Viognier, 26% Roussanne, 21% Marsanne and 11% Grenache Blanc is pressed and fermented in stainless steel to preserve the fresh fruit flavors of the wine. Floral and citrus aromas are joined on the palate by minerality, spice and tropical fruit flavors that persist throughout the wine’s long length.

Vineyard 29, CRU Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $54.00
With grapes sourced from throughout the Napa Valley, the Cru Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in French oak for 18 months, 50% of which was new oak. Aromas of red and black fruits and floral notes greet the nose, while ripe blackberry, spice, smoke, oak enliven the palate, culminating in medium+ length.

Vineyard 29, Estate Cabernet Franc 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $140.00
The Cabernet Franc grapes for this wine hail from the original property, planted in 2000, and, while initially planted to be blended in with the Cabernet Sauvignon, were found to produce a wonderful wine all on their own. The 2007 saw 20 months in French oak, 90% of which was new, with 146 cases produced. Black fruit, oak and herbal aromas are found on both the nose and palate, along with a hint of spice and noticeable, but ripe, tannins. 

 

 

From here to Burgundy

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Residents from the town of Dijon, France arrived in NYC in early March, ready to celebrate a special art exhibit, “The Mourners: Medieval Tomb Sculptures from the Court of Burgundy”, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, bringing many rare works of art from Dijon with them. This event was the catapult for a week’s long set of events all focused on some aspect of the Dijon culture. The key in the crown was the exhibit’s launch on March 2, 2010. However, members of the wine trade had a wonderful opportunity to get in on the action at a Must’taste wine event held at the French Consulate on Fifth Avenue.

At the tasting, I was asked by a colleague as to whether or not I knew if the building had previously been a private residential home and would I have liked to live there? I told her that while I didn’t know that to be the case with any certainly, given its location on upper Fifth Avenue, I would not be surprised if it had previously been someone’s home. And yes, presuming that if I could afford to have the house, I would be equally wealthy enough to take care of it – cleaning staff , etc. – then yes, I would be thrilled to live there. I looked up at the gilded work around the doors and windows and greatly admired the interesting angular ceiling shape. Yes, I thought, it would be an amazing place to live and an especially great place to entertain.

Shifting my attention back onto wine, I had the opportunity to taste a variety of Burgundian wines, grouped by producer. Well-known producer Domaine Faiveley showed two whites and three reds, while Domaine Humbert had two wines and Domaine Gallois presented three very different red wines, providing a glimpse of terroir and vintage among their selections. In general, the wines showed quite nicely, but a few were better than others and a few clearly needed more time to come into their own.

Diana, of Fraiche PR and Communications, the firm which had put together the event, graciously invited me to a party later that evening, a culmination of the week’s festivities with art, food, music and, of course, more wine. The French Consul Embassy, just a few blocks north, was equally lovely a setting, with lots of details to notice and take in. A painting from the exhibit hung on one wall and a group of French musicians played some great music, while chefs from Dijon prepared local delicacies for the guests to enjoy.

Despite having two+ hours in which to find a “date” I had come up empty and made the decision to attend the event alone. It was a slightly awkward event to attend solo, given that I already have difficulty talking to strangers (I guess I must have learned that lesson a bit too well from my mother) along with the fact that many of the guests were native French speakers and my French is essentially non-existent. However, I made due and enjoyed re-tasting the Domaine Gallois Gevery-Chambertin 2007.

Among other food, I tasted a small panini, which was smooth and earthy. After I had had about two or three (or maybe more, I lost count) of these delicious snacks, I inquired about what type of mushroom had been used to make the panini. The response from the chef indicated that I hadn’t a clue about cuisine – it wasn’t mushroom at all –I had been eating escargots the whole time! While I do like escargots, I now didn’t trust my palate since it couldn’t distinguish mushrooms from snails and thus switched to dessert. But, no sooner had I eaten a chocolate/berry item than a waiter brought foie gras around on a silver tray. I couldn’t resist reaching for one, but must admit that foie gras placed in one’s mouth directly after eating chocolate was less than appetizing. The lobster bisque that followed was more palatable coming after the foie gras. At this point, I switched to the white Burgundy being served (can’t remember which producer or vintage) to cut through the rich, fatty foods and re-tried the Maille mustards.

Lovingly named for this beautiful place, the first Dijon mustard on offer was a blend with Chablis wine – it had good acidity and some sharp spice. The second mustard was produced with cinnamon and chocolate, which threw me for a loop. Mustard and chocolate were not in my vocabulary together, but after tasting this mustard, I was impressed. The chocolate came through, but the sweetness didn’t, similar to a Mexican mole sauce. I was asked by a fellow guest for a wine pairing suggestion for the mustards and thought the chocolate-infused mustard had enough richness for a bold, red wine – perhaps the Village-level red Burgundy I had drunk earlier or maybe even a fuller-bodied wine such as a Bordeaux? Either way, the mustard would make a nice marinade for chicken, duck or lamb.

I was now quite sated from the food and wine, so I headed out onto Fifth Avenue and made my way home. I had been transported to France, if only for a few hours, but it had been a wonderful journey.

Grand Cru Grapevine: The Warmth of Chile (March 2010)

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I hope this issue of our Grand Cru Grapevine finds you and your loved ones well.

When I first starting drafting this month’s newsletter back in mid-February, I was thinking about the warmth of Chile amidst the cold weather of New York. However, Chile is now foremost in our minds in the wake of the huge earthquake which hit only days ago. Initial reports from the region indicate that while some of the wineries have sustained damage, the loss seems to be predominantly restricted to material loss rather than loss of life. Many of the wineries have no water or electricity, so the available news is limited at this time. Coming at the beginning of harvest, the wineries will have a long road ahead of them as they struggle to regain power, rebuild facilities and refocus their attention on picking grapes and making wine.

For information on upcoming events with Grand Cru Classes, please check out our website. In the meantime, our thoughts and prayers go out to the Chilean people and we wish them a complete recovery from this disaster. The full ramifications remain to be seen, but perhaps you might pick up a bottle of Chilean wine this month in a show of support (NB: The American Red Cross has noted that there are not any major fundraising efforts being conducted for Chile at this time).

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

The Warmth of Chile

It may still be winter here in the Northern hemisphere, but it is only just shifting to autumn in Chile. Accordingly, the warmth of summer still permeates the air and provides a virtual respite from our own cold weather. Blessed with an abundance of natural resources, Chile offers an ideal climate for viticulture and is cementing its reputation as a world wine region. Today, Chile is #5 in wine exports worldwide and, while the majority of wines are in the value category, a few premium wines are also receiving recognition.

Although it is predominantly Mediterranean in climate, Chile possesses a variety of climates due to the length of the country. In fact, if it were overlaid over North America, it would run from north of Montreal to the top of South America. Stretched along the Pacific Ocean, Chile enjoys the influence from the Humboldt current, which cools the air and moderates the temperature. On its other side, the Andes Mountains provide a steady supply of water for irrigation from the snow melt high atop the mountain ranges, which is necessary since most rainfall occurs during the winter months.

Chile’s viticulture stems from its French heritage, with grapes imported from France prior to the phylloxera epidemic. And, with its sandy soils, in which the phylloxera louse can’t live, it remains phylloxera-free. Not surprisingly, the grapes that dominate the landscape are Cabernet Sauvignon, Pais, Merlot, Carmenere, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah. Carmenere is unique to Chile having been brought there from Bordeaux about 80 years ago to add color, tannin and acid to wines made from Pais. Prior to 1994, it was mistaken for Merlot in the vineyard, but Professor Boursiquot discovered that Carmenere was not a clone of Merlot. It is now recognized as its own variety with unique attributes. As the latest grape to be picked, it requires a lengthy season to reach full maturity. Therefore, it is not well-suited to Bordeaux, but in the right areas, it can produce great wines in Chile, which are redolent of red fruits, spices and berries, with softer tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon, but good color. These wines are medium-bodied, with flavors of cherry, smoke, spice and earth, and are best drunk young.

Among the many wine regions in Chile, the Maule Valley is the largest. It does not benefit from maritime influence, but has good diurnal variation (reaching highs of 85oF during the day and lows of 45o-50oF at night) and dry farming (no irrigation) is the norm, creating rich, ripe wines. The Aconcagua Valley produced the first vintage in Chile – as early as 1551 – and is responsible for a lot of Chile’s current production. The Casablanca Valley is known for its cool climate white wines, while the up-and-coming area of Limari is hotter and drier, resulting in wines with more complexity and structure on palate. Wines from San Antonio and its three subregions, including Leyda, offer minerality and complexity due to the granitic soils and very breezy climate. Meanwhile, the southerly Bio Bio region contains a cold valley suitable for cool climate varieties and a wind which dries the fruit and delays maturity. This slow ripening preserves the fresh fruit and acidity and makes it a perfect place for growing Pinot Noir.

Tasting Notes

Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2008, San Antonio Valley/Leyda, Chile, $21.00
This wine is produced in 100% stainless steel, with six months of lees ageing and no malo-lactic fermentation. Medium+ aromas of lemon candy, floral and pear pervade the nose. On the palate, it is slightly off-dry with rich fruit flavors of pear, lemon candy, and floral, finishing dry with a mineral undercurrent.

Bodegas y Vinedos, O Fournier Centauri, Red Blend 2007, Maule Valley, Chile, $25.00
Produced from 65-100 year old vines, this wine is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 30% Carignan. It is opaque ruby in color with aromas of floral, eucalyptus and black fruit. Dry, with medium+ tannins, medium acidity and full body, notes of blackberry, mint and pepper remain throughout the medium+ length.

Casas Patronales, Carmenere Reserva 2008, Maule Valley, Chile, $10.00
A step up from their entry-level wine, the Reserva has a dry palate with medium body and acidity. Its flavors of spice, red fruits, raspberry and a slight hint of earth are typical of the Carmenere variety from which it is made.

Veranda Pinot Noir Oda 2007, Bio Bio Valley, Chile, $27.00
This Pinot Noir is aged in new oak barrels for 14-16 months. Its nose contains notes of candied raspberry, herbal and floral. A dry wine, with medium acidity and medium body, raspberry and herbal flavors persist on the palate.

Vina El Aromo Private Reserve Chardonnay 2009, Maule Valley, Chile, $10.00
This winery has been operating in the Maule Valley since 1926 and has shifted its attention away from bulk wines and onto up-market production. On the nose, pronounced aromas of apples, nuts and oak dominate. The palate is dry and full-bodied, with apple, oak and a hint of spice.

Navarra Wine

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Yesterday I attended the Navarra wine tasting event at the W Hotel near Union Square. The event featured 20 different producers from this Spanish wine region. While Navarra sits just to the north of the famed Rioja region, it is only becoming known internationally now. It shares some of Rioja’s winemaking heritage and many of the same grapes are planted in both places. However, Navarra has established itself as a modern winemaking region, emphasizing international grapes — Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon — and an international style of production.

Among its more well-received wines, Navarra produces some lovely roses made from the Garnacha grape (also known as Grenache). These fresh and fruity roses are sturdy enough to pair with food, but light enough to enjoy on their own.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Where the Bargains Are…Revisited (November 2009)

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Wow, Fall seems to be literally flying by as Grand Cru Classes completes a whirlwind of projects in October and November. Among our many endeavors, we are thrilled to be providing staff training to the esteemed Four Seasons Restaurant in Manhattan and for Park Place Wines in tony East Hampton.

In between preparing custom training materials and introducing dozens of people to the world of wine, Tracy has had her nose in the books as she studied for Year 1 (of 3) of the American Wine Society’s Wine Judging Certification program. An educational session and Year 1 exam were presented at the annual conference held in Destin, Florida earlier this month. She also “appeared” on Heritage Radio Network’s At the Root of It with Erin Fitzpatrick for the October 27 episode.

November marks the end of our public class sessions in Mattituck for 2009, so if you wish to take a class with us this season, please check our schedule and sign up. Public classes will resume in May. However, private events may be booked with us all year.

In fact, as the allure of the holiday season comes upon us, why not consider a special wine tasting or wine and cheese event in place of your usual holiday party? With years of event planning experience, we can provide you with an elegant affair that your guests will fondly remember.

Beyond entertaining, Grand Cru Classes offers beautifully-packaged gift certificates. Give the gift of a public wine class, a private wine event or consultation services for wine shopping or developing a wine cellar. To make your gift even more special, all gift certificates purchased between now and December 31 will be sent with a set of handmade wine charms.

Finally, if you need to stock up on break-resistant, crystal stemware, now is the time. These glasses also make great gifts. Our next order with Schott-Zweisel will be placed by November 30th. Please contact us directly to receive a catalog of style choices and pricing.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

WHERE THE BUYS ARE…REVISITED

A recent study, commissioned by Italian wine producer Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, revealed interesting differences between Italian and U.S. wine consumers. It seems that Italian wine drinkers are more focused on quality and thus, continue to buy wine at the same quality levels as previously during this economic downturn. However, they are buying fewer bottles. Conversely, according to a Nielsen Group study, during this recession, Americans are drinking in the same quantities, but have adjusted the price point of their purchases. Accordingly, if one used to buy wine in the $15-$20 range, that same consumer is likely now buying wines in the $10-$15 price bracket. With this in mind, we turn our attention to tips and tricks for finding where the bargains are.

Lesser-known Neighbors
In wine, as in real estate, it’s all about location, location, location. With the popularity of key grape varieties, wine regions or both, the price of these wines escalates. Meanwhile, wines that hail from “the wrong side of the tracks” can offer consumers great value. More specifically, if you enjoy the crisp acidity, citrus aromas and flavors and minerality of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé from France’s Loire Valley, look to the villages of Quincy, Reuilly and Menetou-Salon for similarly styled wines at lower price points. The vaunted Sauternes of Bordeaux is prized for its botrytis-affected dessert wines, but the favorable conditions that exist to create these wines are not confined to this single area. Wines from satellite communes Loupiac, Cadillac, Cerons and Ste. Croix du Mont may not have the same longevity, but will provide better bang for your buck for early consumption.

Know thy Vintage and/or Producer
Scaling back on your Burgundy purchases? Generic appellations (AC Bourgogne vs. AC Gevry-Chambertin) from well-regarded négociants (such as Latour, Drouhin and Jadot) will provide good quality wines less expensively. Other Burgundian options are to seek out wines from districts other than the famed Côtes de Nuits and Côtes de Beaune (collectively known as the Côte d’Or) – Côte Chalonnaise offers good Pinot Noirs while Macon, especially Pouilly-Fuissé) is regarded for its Chardonnays. Bordeaux is all about vintage, so choose lesser known producers in great years (2000, 2003, 2005) or search out better producers in “shadow vintages,” those years that got lost in the hoopla of better rated vintages (i.e., 2001 and 2004), for more reasonable options.

Where the Buys Are 2009
Still considered up and coming, Chilean wines are seeing significant improvement in their quality while still being available at the lower end of the market. In particular, Sauvignon Blanc from Leyda and Carmenere from the Maule Valley are terrific choices. Finally, don’t overlook Long Island. While often thought to be expensive wines, a recent blind tasting of Long Island wines pitted against their international peers found that not only did the wines compare favorably on the palate, they usually much less expensive than the competition.

Tasting Notes

Cascina Ca’Rossa, Roero Arneis «Merica» 2008, Piedmont, Italy, $14.95
This wine is made from the Arneis grape, which is indigenous to the Piedmont region, located in northwestern Italy. On the nose, there are aromas of floral, almond and honey. On the palate, flavors of lime, almond, straw and honey linger throughout the long length. 

Pierre Sparr, Selection Series Riesling 2008, Alsace, France, $14.00
As with most Alsatian wines, this one is varietally correct, truly showing off Riesling’s peach and citrus aromas and flavors. The palate is dry with high acidity and medium length. 

Channing Daughters, Scuttlehole Chardonnay 2008, The Hamptons, $16.00
This unoaked Chardonnay held its own when blind tasted amidst wines from Chablis and Pouilly-Fuissé. Youthful aromas of floral, mineral and lime persist on the palate and are joined by lemon and stone. Crisp acidity and concentrated fruit are balanced by its full body.

Château Teyssier, St. Emilion Grand Cru 2006, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
Aromas of black fruit and molasses greet the nose. The palate is dry with medium acidty and medium tannins, along with flavors of blackberry, coffee, and spice. 

Casas Patronales, Carmenere Reserva 2008, Maule Valley, Chile, $10.00
This producer’s Reserva wines spend 6 months aged in oak, but the wines are not overly oaky. The Carmenere is dry with medium body and medium acidity. Its palate is spicy with red fruits/raspberry and slight earth flavors culminating in medium+ length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Taming of the Brew (October 2009)

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Several years ago, we visited my parents at their home in Ashland, Oregon and had the opportunity to attend their town’s renowned Shakespeare Festival where we saw Taming of the Shrew. While Petruchio worked hard to “tame” Katherina, vintners in Cahors, France have put their energies toward taming the tannins in their wines.

Here at home, Tracy hopes that taming of her students will not be necessary as she begins teaching WSET Intermediate Certificate at the International Wine Center later this month. She completed an intensive teacher training program with the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET) in August and is now ready to hit the ground running.

Jared has been equally busy, completing Murray’s Cheese Boot Camp in late September, which entailed 15 hours of intensive cheese study over three days. All told, he consumed about three pounds of cheese while tasting through over 65 samples.

Both our wine and cheese knowledge are being well-utilized by clients this month as we provide training in French wines for the crew of a private yacht and present a special “Welcome to Long Island” wine and cheese party for a wedding on Shelter Island.

We are also delighted to announce that we were featured in Edible East End’s High Summer issue: To Drink, Perchance to Teach.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

TAMING OF THE BREW

“‘They have tamed the tannins.'” Such was the pronouncement from Elin McCoy, noted wine writer and author, at a tasting event launching the Cahors campaign in the U.S. Traditionally known for extremely tight and tannic wines, Cahors, situated in Southwest France, was called “the black wine” in the 13th century. However, as McCoy explained, today’s wines are much more approachable with less tannic grip than the wines of old. 

The tiny village of Cahors is home to only 5,000 inhabitants, but boasts two UNESCO heritage sites – Valentré Bridge and Cathédrale Saint-Étienne. There are 430 growers producing AOC Cahors, all of which is red and produced with a minimum of 70% Malbec, which hails from this region despite Argentina’s market dominance with this grape. The terrain is divided among the plateau, slope and valley, with grapes from the various parcels blended together to create deeper complexity.

Present day wines can be grouped into one of three wine styles: intense and complex (100% Malbec); feisty and powerful (85-100% Malbec) and tender and fruity (70-85% Malbec). Not surprisingly, the more expensive wines tend to fall into the first category. However these wines still represent good value with the majority of them ranging from $10.00 to $20.00. At this price point, the wines offer ataste of their origin and are really quite interesting, giving the consumer great wines for the price. 

Cahors typically display aromas and flavors of black fruits, such as blackberry and blueberry, and hints of mushrooms (with age). They also show some minerality and finish with fresh acidity and firm, but ripe, tannins. Compared to Argentine Malbecs, Cahors wines are less fruit-driven and retain more elegance with lighter, less jammy aromas and flavors. These wines are food friendly and pair well with local cuisines – notably truffles, foie gras and cassoulet, but could just as easily complement barbecue fare, grilled meats and game. 

Located not too far from Bordeaux, the regions share the same climate and annual weather patterns. Consequently, the two mirror each other in terms of vintage quality and variation. In great vintages such as 2005 and 2008, the wines are capable of ageing well with as much as 10-15 years of cellaring. Less stellar years provide an opportunity to drink the wines young.

As part of the campaign to promote these wines, a special Cahors glass (the only region with its own official stemware) and special bottle were commissioned. The Cahors glass has a ring in the stem, which permits one to place their fingers in it when holding the glass.

Tasting Notes

TENDER & FRUITY
Château Croze de Pys, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $10.00
Aromas of plum and blackberry greet the nose of this 100% Malbec wine. With an attractive freshness and good fruit, the palate offers vibrant acidity and firm tannins along with notes of blackberry and slight earth. 

Château Les Croisille, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $12.00
Blended with approximately 15% Merlot, this deep ruby wine has black fruit aromas. Blackberry and herbal, spice, savory and olive, well-balanced with long length. 

FEISTY & POWERFUL
Château La Caminade, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $21.00
A pronounced nose of smoke, bramble fruit and a hint of savory leaps from the glass. Similarly, the wine is powerful on the palate, with deep and rich flavors of blackcherry, herbal, wood/oak and earth, coupled with firm, but ripe tannins, 

INTENSE & COMPLEX
Château de Haute-Serre, Cahors 2004, Cahors, France, $18.00
Made from 100% Malbec, black fruits, spice and pepper notes fill the nose. However, on the palate, the wine is brighter, showing raspberry, earth and gamey flavors. 

Domaine Cosse Masionneuve, « Les Laquets » Cahors 2004, Cahors, France, $45.00
Proprietors Mathieu Cosse and Catherine Maisonneuve started their small domaine in 1999 and make their wines as naturally as possible, practicing biodynamic principles. Nearly opaque, the wine shows mineral/flint notes along with floral and blueberry aromas. On the palate, lush fruit flavors of blackcherry and blackberry are joined by vanilla and hints of stone and herbal.