Category Archives: Wine Regions

The winery visit that wasn’t: Masottina’s new facility

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When Stefano invited me to visit Masottina during Vino in Villa last May, I was looking forward to seeing the winery and, as anticipated at any winery visit, I also looked forward to tasting the Masottina wines. Imagine my surprise when the winery turned out to be a construction zone. No, really. It was a full-out construction zone, complete with the need to jump over gaps in the pavement (in my customary high heels and a dress) and stay away from wet concrete. And yet, it turned out to be quite a visit.

Masottina is constructing a state-of-the-art facility that is enormous. The building would have been a bit of a monstrosity, marring the beautiful landscape given its behemoth size, but the winery is actually built into the side of a hill. A big hill. Thus, the underground levels practically disappear.

Gingerly walking down flight after flight, I was given a tour of each floor with Masottina’s Marketing Manager, Federico dal Bianco. In viewing the structure, Masottina appears to be sparing no expense. The concrete floors share space with stunning wood beams overhead, recalling the hull of a graceful ship, while the sheer height of the space, along with the massive support columns, puts one in mind of a church or Greek temple. It was impressive as a work-in-progress; it will be incredible to see completed.

But, despite spending about an hour at the site, plus a brief visit to their nearby vineyards, there was no wine, of course. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to taste through the Masottina wines at the Vino in Villa event later that evening.

While I did enjoy their Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore wines in both Brut and Extra Dry styles, it was their Rive-designated wine that stole my heart. Rive wines are a new classification that were introduced with the new regulations, which promoted Prosecco Superiore to DOCG status, and indicate wines that are harvested from a single vineyard in one of hte designated zones and at lower yields.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry “Rive di Ogliano” 2011
Aromas of floral, pear and minerality greeted the nose and were repeated on the palate. Not surprisingly, given that it was labeled as Extra Dry, the wine did display a hint of sweetness on the palate, but it was coupled with sufficient acidity to balance the slight residual sugar. This balance remained throughout the wine’s long length.

Beyond Prosecco Superiore, Masottina also produces wines under several other denominations, including the (also newly promoted) Colli di Conegliano DOCG. Thus, when I arrived in Venice a few days later, I was delighted to see the Massotina Colli di Conegliano Bianco on the list at Al Covo. Admittedly, I didn’t take any tasting notes on this blend of Incrocio  Manzoni , Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, but, trust me, it was a lovely pairing with my meal.

Ready for reds

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Looking for some new wine ideas this fall? Here are few from which to choose from the lighter-bodied Gamay grape to the full-bodied and bold Cabernet Sauvignon.

Gamay in all its glory If all you know about the Gamay grape is Beaujolais Nouveau, you are missing a big part of the story. Not only does Gamay come into its own in the ten designated cru villages of Beaujolais, but some of the wines can be quite complex and capable of aging.

Georges Duboeuf Jean-Ernst Descombes 2011 Morgon, Burgundy, France, $16.00 This wine displays a fruity nose of cherries with some slight mineral character, both of which persist on the palate. It is dry, with medium body, low tannins and good acidity.

Napa Valley big reds The Napa Valley made its reputation on big reds, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, but Merlot (and others) are well represented. These three represent a nice range of wine styles and price points.

Waterstone Merlot 2008, Napa Valley, CA, $18.00 With medium intense aromas of cherries, plums and herbs, this dry wine has good acidity with a full body and slightly noticeable alcohol. Despite this, the palate was quite elegant showing plum, cocoa, herbs and spice flavors throughout its more than medium length.

Folie à Deux Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa Valley, CA, $24,00 This wine displayed notes of ripe red and black fruit with some spice. On the palate, it was dry, with medium to high acidity, and flavors of earth, red fruit and spice. The tannins were firm, but ripe and the finish was relatively long.

Antica Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Napa Valley, CA, $55.00 Tasted alongside the Folie à Deux Cab, this wine exhibited much blacker fruit and was more herbal in character with a hint of cocoa. The dry palate offered silky yet firm tannins and long length. Its flavors included rich and ripe blackberry, dried herbs, spice and cocoa.

Lesser-known Names Shine in the Langhe

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Italy’s Piedmont region is full of recognizable names – Michele Chiarlo, Aldo Conterno and Bartolo Mascarello to list just a few. But the area has numerous other producers who, while less well known, are also producing high quality wines. Two such visits that reinforced this view were to Gianpiero Marrone and Negro.

A man blessed with daughters, Giampiero Marrone is at the helm of his family’s winery, with daughters Serena, Denise and Valentina working alongside him. Located in La Morra, the Marrones recently completed a major renovation of their winery building, which has been in the family for four generations.  Standing on the new terrace, the 360° views provide a glimpse of 11 different bell towers, which serve as a beautiful backdrop to tasting the wines.

With 18 hectares (~45 acres) planted, the Marrones produce both red and white wines. Their diverse portfolio (they produce 20 different wines) offers some more unique selections such as Favorita, a grape so named for the Queen’s partiality to this wine. This traditional white grape is found only in the Langhe, but it originated from Vermentino when both Piedmont and Sardinia were under Savoy rule. This wine (2011) is light and fresh, well suited as an aperitif, with floral notes, ripe peach fruit and moderate acidity.

Their Langhe Arneis (another local white grape variety) comes from a vineyard selection called “Tre Fie” (three daughters). Redolent of almond, floral and citrus notes, the 2011 wine is rich and mineral on the palate. A blend of Arneis, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, the Langhe Suris 2010 is quite tropical in aroma, coupled with citrus, along with full body and vibrant acidity. Rounding out the family’s white wine offerings, its Langhe Chardonnay “Memundis” is barrel fermented and spends 15 months on the lees. The 2010 was nicely structured with integrated oak, apple, mineral and a hint of butter and capable of aging for a few years.

Among its reds, the Marrones produce several blends including Passione from a blend of Barbera and Nebbiolo, and Sancarlo, which brings together Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto. The former was rich and ripe with bright cherry aromas and flavors and freshness on the palate. The latter displayed a dried, jammy fruit character, with cherry, plum and herbal notes and was quite elegant. Serena explained that they prefer Austrian wood for their barrels, which are water bent, but not charred or smoked, and choose a smaller size to speed the aging process.

Conversely, their Barolo “Pichemej” is aged in traditional, large oak casks. The 2008 was still extremely tight, but exhibited nice floral, cherry and spice aromas and flavors. It needs time in the cellar for the tannins to soften. We closed out the visit with their Barolo Chinato. This is a traditional aromatized wine, flavored with spices, cinchona (quinine), rhubarb roots and gentian, making it equally perfect as a digestif or as an accompaniment to dessert. The medium sweet palate offered spices, cocoa and stewed fruit, yet finished quite cleanly.

Situated to the north of Barolo, the Roero DOCG features Arneis and Nebbiolo. While this denomination hasn’t garnered the attention that Barolo and Barbaresco have attained, the area produces extremely high quality wines, particularly with the whites. Here, the Arneis grape thrives in the marine-fossil rich soils that maintain high acidity in the grapes.

Within Roero, the Negro family has been producing wine for generations. Their Perdaudin estate dates to 1670 as evidenced in the local archives. The current generations include Giovanni and Marisa Negro and their children, Emanuela, Gabriele, Angelo and Giuseppe, making the winery a true family affair. Recognizing the need to sustain the land for future generations, the family has shifted its vineyard cultivation from the use of chemical fertilizers to organic compost.

Championing the aging potential of Arneis, the Negro family presented a vertical tasting of their Arneis wines. The 2001 Roero Arneis 7 Anni proved the point, showing some development, while retaining crisp acidity, minerality and a creamy texture. Surprisingly, the 2007 Roero Arneis “Perdaudin” actually seemed older with its slight oxidative character of nuts and bruised apples.

The Negro’s Roero Sudisfà Riserva provided proof as to the quality of the Roero Rosso (red) wines. These were quite elegant, despite the tannic nature of the wines. The 2004 and 2006 particularly showed well, with the 2004 offering dried flowers, balsamic vinegar and plums on the nose, with dried fruit and meatiness on the palate. Overall, it showed richer, darker fruit than the 2006, which displayed similar floral character, but was joined by brighter strawberry aromas and flavors.

Like the Marrones, the Negros have a significant range of wines. Their two Metodo Classico sparkling wines include the Giovanni Negro Roero Arneis Extra Brut and the Maria Elisa Rosé Brut, produced from Nebbiolo, while the two dessert style wines include Birbet, an off-dry wine made from Brachetto (but unlike Brachetto d’Acqui, this isn’t a sparkling wine), and Passito, a medium sweet wine made from Arneis grapes that have been dried to reduce water content and concentrate flavors.

These two visits reinforced the need to look beyond the usual suspects and to explore the broader world of Piedmont wine.

 

Grand Cru Grapevine: Portuguese Wines ~ A Fun Lesson in Diversity Awareness (October 2012)

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Long known for its high quality fortified wines – namely Port and Madeira – Portugal’s reputation for its non-fortified wines was less than stellar. Thanks to a renewed focus on quality, most notably in the wineries themselves, things are changing. The country now has an expanded repertoire of quality wines, which offer diverse styles at excellent values for today’s consumer.

Part of the secret to Portugal’s success is owed to its range of climates. Despite its small size, the country has three distinct zones, which influence the styles of wine that can be produced. Due to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, the coastal part of northern Portugal is lush and green with abundant rainfall. Here, temperatures are moderate and humidity is high. Continuing south along the coast, the climate becomes more Mediterranean, with warmer summers, mild winters, and less precipitation. Meanwhile, a series of mountain ranges in the interior blocks the moderating influence of the ocean and the climate becomes decidedly continental and arid. These inland valleys, especially those close to the Spanish border, feature blistering hot summers and very cold winters, with minimal precipitation.

Along with its diverse climate, Portugal has embraced a wide variety of grapes, choosing to rely on native varieties instead of the more internationally known Cabernet Sauvignon and the like. Instead, grapes such as Castelão and Fernão Pires, essentially found nowhere else, dominate the vineyards. Mostly planted in the south, Castelão can produce red wines with complex, herbaceous character, but can also be vinified in a more easy-drinking style. Fernão Pires, alternately called Maria Gomes, is a very aromatic white grape variety, made into dry and dessert, as well as sparkling, wines.

Red grapes take the lead, with two-thirds of all wine production being red. Aside from the aforementioned Castelão, Portuguese reds frequently feature one or more of the preferred Port varieties. Specifically, Touriga Nacional, capable of producing complex wines with firm structure and black fruit; Touriga Franca, with its floral, blackberry and plum notes; and Tinta Roriz, known elsewhere in as Tempranillo, with red fruit, olive and herbal characteristics. Another variety with significant acreage is the extremely tannic Baga grape, which is often aged in older barrels so as not to add additional tannins, yielding wines with robust wines with plum and tobacco notes, capable of aging for a long time.

White grapes are regionally prominent, especially in the cooler areas in the north and on the islands. In Vinho Verde, Loureiro and Alvarinho (synonymous with Loureira and Albariño in Spain’s Rías Baixas) are the stars. Alvarinho is distinctly tart and mineral in character with peach and citrus aromas and flavors, whereas Loureiro offers less acidity and more richness on the palate. Wines can be produced as single varietal wines or several grapes may be blended together. Compared to Rias Baixas wines, Alvarinho-led Vinho Verde is more petillant, mineral and tart.

Regardless of the varieties used, white (red and rosé versions also exist) Vinho Verde is generally low in alcohol, high in acidity with fresh citrus character. Also grown in the Vinho Verde area, as well as in Lisboa, Arinto is known for high acidity, with moderate alcohol and has to potential to age, especially if aged in oak.

With a wealth of wines from which to choose, Portuguese wines might be the perfect thing to help you break your Chardonnay habit. Because, not only is life too short to drink bad wine; it’s too short to get stuck in a rut.

Aveleda Alvarinho 2011, Vinho Verde, Portugal, $11.00
This is always one of my favorites when tasting a range of Vinho Verdes. While a bit pricier than some others, it delivers with floral, nectarine and citrus aromas and flavors. With its high acidity, dry palate and light body, this is a perfect aperitif wine.

Quinta da Romeira Arinto 2010, Bucelas, Portugal, $11.00
This wine hails from the Bucelas denomination, located close to Lisbon. It has notes of citrus, and yeast on the nose. Another relatively light-bodied wine, the palate has high acidity, along with green apples, grassiness and minerality.

Casa Ermelinda de Freitas Dona Ermelinda Reserva 2010, Palmela, Portugal, $13.00
A blend of Castelao (70%), Touriga Nacional (10%), Trincadeira (10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), this wine spent 12 months in French oak barrels. It offers red berries, perfume, oak and plum on the nose. Its palate provides vibrant acidity, dusty tannins, as well as minerality and an herbal character.

Herdade de la Malhadinha Nova Aragonês da Peceguina 2009, Alentejo, Portugal, $21.00
Unlike Rioja, which relies on Tempranillo, but usually includes at least one blending partner, this wine is 100% Tempranillo (simply masquerading under its Portuguese pseudonym). Showing ripe and jammy black berries, oak, medium tannins and some minerality, this wine seems more new world than old world, but still has nice balance.

Quinta de Vesuvio Pombal de Vesúvio 2008, Douro, Portugal, $27.00
At 803 acres, Quinta de Vesuvio is one of the largest estates within the Douro Valley. This blend of Touriga Franca (55%), Touriga Nacional (35%) and Tinta Amarela (10%) was aged in barrel for 9 months in French oak. It displays black and bramble fruit aromas along with smoky notes, both of which are repeated on the full-bodied palate, and joined by vibrant acidity.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Memories of Mendocino (September 2012)

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Nestled above the Sonoma County border, Mendocino County is a world unto its own. Much less developed than Napa or Sonoma, the county is home to sandy beaches, towering redwood forests, and other natural landscapes, but little else. The picturesque town of Mendocino itself sits along the Pacific Ocean, offering breath-taking views, weather permitting. On a clear day, you can watch waves crash on the rocks below; however, when the fog rolls in, you’re lucky if you can see the ocean at all.

Beyond swimming and hiking, beer and wine tasting figure prominently on tourists’ “to do” lists. Even though grapes are grown throughout the county, with a total of ten American Viticultural Areas (and two pending approval), it is the Anderson Valley that is the most densely populated – with wineries, not people. Arriving from the north, visitors are greeted by the Navarro town limit sign, which announces a whopping population of 67; this is not the place to annoy your neighbor. To the south, the “much bigger” Boonville is home to 700 residents. But, what the area lacks in people, it more than makes up for in hospitality and a stay at the Boonville Hotel is strongly recommended.

Within the valley, the elevation, coupled with the coastal maritime influence, creates ideal conditions for cool climate grape varieties including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Riesling. Although Tony Husch is credited with planting the valley’s first Pinot Noir vines in 1971, the Alsatian varieties got their start in 1974, thanks to Ted Bennett and Deborah Cahn of Navarro Vineyards. And, while aromatic whites do well, Pinot Noir is especially prized, with many producers coming from outside the valley to source fruit, such as Copain, Fulcrum and Littorai. Aside from producing highly regarded still wines, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay also find themselves used in the production of Traditional Method sparkling wines. In this regard, Scharffenberger Cellars was founded by John Scharffenberger in 1981, while Roederer Estate, affiliated with Champagne house Louis Roederer, was established in 1982.

Today, the Anderson Valley remains quite small with a scant 2,244 acres planted on 85 properties and a median vineyard size of 12 acres. To put that in perspective, the Napa Valley, which accounts for only 4% of California’s total wine production, has over 45,000 acres of vineyards. Yet, despite the Anderson Valley’s diminutive size, it has developed a big reputation for producing quality wines.

Roederer Estate L’Ermitage 2003, Anderson Valley, CA, $44.00
The top sparker of the estate, also known as a tête de cuvée, L’Ermitage made its debut in 1989 and is only made in the best years. This wine is a blend of 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir and spent five years on the lees. It showed floral, yeast and citrus notes on both the nose and palate, culminating in a very long length. 8,332 cases produced 

Navarro Vineyards Pinot Gris 2010, Anderson Valley, CA, $19.00
With a strong emphasis on sustainable farming, the family farm supports a flock of Babydoll sheep, which graze between the vines to keep
down the weed, but are too short to reach the grapes. The wine shows floral, almond and tangerine notes on the nose, all of which persisted on the lush palate. 1,500 cases produced

Handley Cellars Pinot Noir 2009, Anderson Valley, CA, $32.00
Owned by Milla Handley, Handley Cellars celebrates its 30th vintage this year, and while Milla is still the primary winemaker, co-winemaker, Kristen Barnhisel, joined the staff in 2004. This Pinot Noir was redolent of fresh berries and cherries, with earth, slight spice and dried herbs joining on the palate. 1,505 cases produced 

Phillips Hill Estates Pinot Noir Wiley Vineyard 2009, Anderson Valley, CA, $38.00
Phillips Hill Estates was founded by Toby Hill in 2002 when the professionally-trained artist shifted his attention away from the label and into the bottle (although he does design his own labels). Crafting several different vineyard designate Pinot Noirs, the Wiley Vineyard was our favorite with its lighter body, yet still intense cherry aromas and flavors. 380 cases produced

Lula Cellars Zinfandel 2009, Mendocino, CA, $28.00
This relatively new direct to consumer brand – the first wines were launched with the 2008 vintage – is the brainchild of winemaker and owner, Jeff Hansen. With grapes sourced from just south of Ukiah, this wine displayed blueberry, cocoa and raspberry aromas with rich and ripe fruit on the dry palate. 500 cases produced

Parlare Prosecco Superiore

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About to embark on my fifth trip to Italy in three years, I felt it was imperative to be able to say more than the five words I had previously memorized to be polite. So, I enrolled in a language class appropriately called the Traveler’s Survival Kit, which focused on important vocabulary such as that needed to ask directions and check into a hotel.

Of course, the most crucial phrase I taught myself was “Sorry, but I have studied to speak Italian for only four weeks,” and practiced it numerous times before I headed out of town. Not surprisingly, I used it in nearly every conversation I had upon my arrival in Italy. With its multiple repetition came fluidity and ease and soon I was sounding very Italian, earning repeated compliments…at least for that one minute.

My survival kit kept me in good stead for most of the trip, especially when coupled with an abbreviated game of charades in an attempt to be understood. Yet, while the majority of folks spoke at least some English, I found myself in a few situations where this was not the case. I generally grasped most of the conversation, but admittedly missed a few phrases and simply nodded along. It’s possible that I may have inadvertently said yes to something I didn’t mean to, but, I am confident that I didn’t receive any marriage proposals along my journey.

My trip was nearly complete when I had the opportunity to meet with Francesco Drusian, a Prosecco Superiore producer. Francesco met me at the Castello di San Salvatore (the “villa” of the Vino in Villa event) in order to bring me to his winery in Valdobbiadene. We waited for the tram to take us from the castle courtyard to the parking lot and quickly exhausted the few relevant phrases I knew since I was not about to ask Francesco for a hotel room or an order of pasta. Unfortunately, Francesco didn’t speak English at all, so he asked me if I spoke French to which I replied “oui. “

Shortly thereafter, we were in his car headed to the winery—a full 30 minutes away. Possibly the longest 30 minutes of my life. Did I mention that I studied French in junior high and high school (both of which were very far away from the minutes I spent sitting in Francesco’s car)? Shifting gears, my beautiful Italian phrases were replaced with rusty French, jumbled with the occasional Italian word and I now sounded like Sgt. Deux-Deux of the Pink Panther and Friends’ The Inspector cartoons…”Si, I mean, ‘Oui.'”

We finally arrived at the Drusian estate and I (inwardly) breathed a sigh of relief. It wouldn’t be too much longer until we’d be occupied with tasting through the wines and his colleague, Anna Maria, who did speak English, was due to show at any moment.

Pulling the wines from the refrigerator, Francesco apologized for the wines being too cold and so we waited a bit to let them warm up. We eventually began with Prosecco Superiore Brut, which had a very floral nose and is fresh on the palate with ripe peach flavors. His Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry displayed a heady aroma of white flowers and just a hint of sweetness with floral and mineral notes.

By now, Anna Maria had appeared and we made each other’s acquaintance, while continuing with the tasting. The Millisimato 2011 was similarly floral and mineral on both the nose and palate, along with pear. Labeled as Dry, the wine was quite clean and very balanced despite its 20 g/l of residual sugar.

Although among the mid-level tier of Prosecco Superiore producers in terms of overall production size, Drusian is among the largest landholders in the vaunted Cartizze area – Prosecco Superiore’s cru vineyard. As expected, Drusian’s top wine was extremely elegant showing with mineral and pear drop characteristics dominating the palate before culminating in long length.

With the tasting completed, I was given a quick tour of the winery and then we were off to dinner. It turned out that Anna Maria used to work at the winery, but now manages Althe’a, an agriturismo property owned by Francesco. I rode with Anna Maria, which was a much more relaxing trip than the earlier one (simply due to the lack of a language barrier), as we sped toward Colline di Soligo.

The farm is home to a beautifully restored stone house with farm country décor throughout the guest rooms and restaurant. We entered the dining room and were seated immediately (it certainly helps to arrive with the owner). As good hosts, Francesco and Anna Maria were keen to ensure that I enjoyed every course even when they chose to skip it themselves; I was the sole eater of both the pasta course and dessert. And, since they were unwilling to provide guidance on one appetizer over another, I was strong-armed into trying two.

For the main course, Anna Maria and I split a steak courtesy of one of the cattle raised on the farm, which we paired with one of Francesco’s non-Prosecco wines – a red blend from the newly promoted Colli di Conegliano DOCG. I chose Italian cheesecake for the aforementioned dessert, which was served warm on a bed of chocolate sauce and with which Francesco insisted that I try one of the local passito (dried grape) dessert wines.

As the evening faded into night, Francesco excused himself and bid me au revoir and Ciao! as he headed home to his family. I finished my cake, had a few more sips of the Torchiato di Fregona and saw the finish line looming in the distance. But, just then, Anna Maria remembered that they had experimented with making a limoncello flavored with herbs and another glass was brought to the table and filled. I took a few obligatory sips and, at last, it was time to go.

By this point, I was quite tired, but very satiated and, had been reminded that while we may speak different languages, whether English, Italian, French or otherwise, the language of food and wine is universal!

Cooking by the book

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Like anyone else who’s ever gone away for more than a week, I came home to a lot of mail… most of it junk. But, having forgotten the promise made by a friend, I found a pleasant surprise amid the bills and circulars — a new cookbook. In fact, there was not just one, but two cookbooks waiting for me upon my return.

Now, I already have a lot of cookbooks. No, not as many as those folks who wax poetically that they’ve been collecting cookbooks since the year of the flood and have subsequently had to build a special wing on their home just to shelter them. But, enough that I don’t really need another cookbook; especially since lately I seem to use online recipe sites more frequently than reaching for one of my printed tomes. Yet, there they were.

The first came to me from wine colleagues, Jeff Jensen and Mike DeSimone, by way of their publisher. Their latest book –The Fire Island Cookbook – is a collection of menus, one for each weekend of the summer, along with suggested wine pairings. Although Fire Island is the title’s stated destination, the recipes are culled from around the world and are appropriate for any summer supper – whether enjoyed in your Hamptons share, island retreat or suburban backyard.

Flipping through the book, we picked a page at random and found ourselves preparing a shopping list for seafood and sausage paella. Since it was just the two of us, we chose to forgo the other menu items and also halved the recipe regarding the rice itself, while being more lavish with the seafood. Even with the revision, it was all paella all the time for the next few meals (but, since the dish was as tasty as it was, we had no complaints). If you’ve never made paella before (I’ll admit to having been a paella virgin, myself), it is actually made just like risotto, but with a lot of flavorful spices.

We chose to ignore Jeff and Mike‘s wine pairing recommendation simply because we had a lot of wine waiting to be opened, but it’s a nice bit of information for them to have included, making it easy for the wine novice to easily find a pairing for the meal. A few weeks later, we tackled two more recipes, pulling an appetizer of grilled romaine from one meal and a Tequila-marinated steak from another, and pairing the meat with a Malbec as suggested.

The second, extremely unexpected volume was a gift from my husband. He had attended a literary event at the New York Public Library during my absence (the quintessential bachelor, no?) and had obtained a signed copy of Elizabeth Gilbert’s newest publication for me, At Home on the Range.

According to my husband, Elizabeth Gilbert does not look like Julia Roberts. I know that I shouldn’t be surprised the author doesn’t resemble the actress who portrayed her in the film version of her Eat, Pray, Love book, but I am. Regardless of whom she does or does not resemble, it was apparently quite a humorous event. John Hodgman (of the Mac commercial, and, perhaps to a lesser extent, The Daily Show fame) interviewed Ms. Gilbert, but since they have been friends for years, it was more like a conversation replete with inside jokes than a usual interview.

The important gist of the discussion is that, once upon a time, Elizabeth’s great-grandmother, Margaret Yardley Potter, wrote a cookbook, which was ahead of its time with its focus on nose-to-tail eating; reliance on fresh, local ingredients (as opposed to the modern conveniences of canned or frozen items); and unusual (for the period) cuisine such as, believe it or not, pizza. Curating recipes from unlikely sources such as shopkeepers and obstetric nurses, Potter crafted a cookbook that reads more like a letter from grandma than the Galloping Gourmet, but is made all the more entertaining for this novel approach.

Having only formally discovered this piece of family heritage recently, Elizabeth has republished At Home on the Range, along with the insertion of an Introduction and a few helpful hints with the recipes. With a goal of having these recipes reach a more amenable audience than when the book was first launched, rather than profit, all proceeds from the sale of the book will benefit Scholar Match. In this regard, you are helping you to feed the mind of the next generation while feeding yourself.

 

Captain & Tennille Redux – Muscat Love (Grand Cru Grapevine: June 2012)

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Back in the day, Captain & Tennille sang about Muskrat Love, but these days everyone seems to have fallen, not for rodents, but for the Muscat grape. In fact, Nielsen data presented in January 2012 indicated that sales of Moscato (which is a wine produced from the Muscat grape) has risen more than 70% from 2010 to 2011.

Among the oldest grape varieties in the world, Muscat shines in a plethora of places from the cool climate of Piedmont where it sparkles as Asti and Moscato d’Asti to the warmth of Southern France where it dazzles as Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise. And, equally notable, it thrives off the coast of mainland Greece in the Aegean Sea.

Here, the Mediterranean island of Samos nurtures the Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains grape with its steep, terraced vineyards (“pezoules”), deep soils, high altitude and abundant sunshine (3,300 hours per year). Home to the philosopher Pythagoras, of triangular fame (which is presumably better than singular fame), Samos has produced Muscat wine for centuries and is closely linked with its use for the liturgies surrounding the sacrament of Holy Eucharist service of the Roman Catholic Church.

In more modern history, the Union of Winemaking Cooperatives of Samos (UWC) was established in 1934 and was among the first cooperatives in Greece. With the participation of 26 wine growing villages, EOSS represents all of the island’s growers. In this regard, it is responsible for wine production (it maintains two full-scale wineries for its members), along with sales and marketing activities on behalf of brand Samos.

Given that 97% of the island’s 4,000 acres of vineyards are planted to Muscat, Samos wines are nearly synonymous with this indigenous variety. As per Greek wine laws, Samos wines are one of eight dessert wines classified under the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) designation and are produced in three different styles: Samos Doux, Samos Vin Doux Naturel and Samos Nectar.

Samos Doux is known as a vin de liqueur (aka mistela), produced by the addition of a neutral spirit almost immediately after pressing. With fermentation stopped so quickly, these wines have high levels of residual sugar (200 g/l). The Samos Vin Doux Naturel is akin to the fortified wines of Languedoc-Roussillon, whereby the neutral spirit is added after fermentation has begun. Conversely, Samos Nectar wines are not fortified at all; rather, their sweetness is a result of drying the grapes in the sun to concentrate the sugars before fermentation and then being aged in cask for three years. Although still quite sweet, these latter two wines are less sweet than the Samos Doux wines.

With rich, unctuous notes that range from honey, apricot and candied citrus to burnt orange and butterscotch, what’s not to love?

SAMOS NECTAR 

Despite the high levels of residual sugar in these wines, they do have  balanced acidity to keep them from becoming cloying on the palate.

However, with that said, these are decidedly dessert wines and pair best  with rich, flavorful cheeses (such as sharp cheddar or intense blue  cheese), or fruit- or custard-style desserts (i.e. strawberry  cheesecake, zabaglione).

A third option is to pair them in a cocktail as  their aromatic profile and sweet taste can balance bitter elements and  add weight to the palate. Dushan Zaric, co-owner and bartender of the  New York City-based Macao Trading Company, has crafted a number of  Samos-based cocktails, which work well, including the Nectar Fix. And, with the arrival of summer’s warmer weather, a chilled cocktail might be just the thing.

Nectar Fix

Glass:
Martini-Cocktail
Ingredients:
1¼ ounces Samos Nectar
1 ounce Rye
½ ounce Campari
1 fresh strawberry, quartered
fresh strawberry, halved, for garnish
Directions:
Pour all ingredients including the quartered strawberry into a mixing glass. Add large, cold ice. Stir for 40 revolutions. Strain into a Martini-Cocktail glass and garnish with half a strawberry.

Bodegas Fariña celebrates 70 years

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Pictured left to right: Inigo Ramirez de Haro Valdes (Cultural Attaché to the Consul General of Spain), Manuel Farina Jr, Chef Jesus Nunez, Manuel Farina Sr, Juan Martinez Salazar (Consul General of Spain)

Manuel Farina, Jr. looks very young, but at 25 years old he is supposed to. His father, Manuel, Sr., looks more weathered after being at the helm of the family business for more than 40 years. The newly minted viticulturist was in New York for the first time in April, along with dad, to mark a special occasion – their esteemed Toro winery, Bodegas Fariña, celebrates its 70th anniversary this year.

Situated in northwest Spain, the Toro region is a little over two hours from Madrid and about an hour from the Portuguese border. Wines have been produced here for centuries, but the denomination of origin (DO) only dates to 1987, thanks considerably to the efforts of Manuel, Sr. and his belief in the area.

With its span of seven decades, Bodegas Fariña is one of the oldest wineries in the Toro DO. Beyond simple longevity, the winery can also claim to be a pioneer in establishing the reputation of Toro wines. Founded in 1942, Bodegas Farina was created by Salvador Fariña in the village of Casaceca de las Chanas, located 30km from Toro. A new winery was built within the Toro border upon creation of the DO.

Born just a year before the winery was established, Salvador’s son, Manuel was destined to take over the business. However, Manuel wondered why the Toro wines weren’t doing better in the world wine market.

Studying wine in Bordeaux as part of his studies proved pivotal, revealing to him that people didn’t want high alcohol wines. Back then, tradition dictated that the local wines should be harvested in mid-October, the result of which was wines that clocked in at an average of 17% abv. Returning home, Manuel changed his family’s practices, producing the first wine at 13.5% abv.

Other trail-blazing measures included being the first to use a de-stemmer and the first to use temperature controlled stainless steel for fermentation. Historically, the wines were packaged in jugs, but along with his other shifts, Manuel, Sr. began bottling in Bordeaux bottles. Not surprisingly, the winery was also the first in the region to be exported.

Today, Bodegas Fariña is highly regarded, with the wines available in numerous countries. Not content to rest on these laurels, both of Manuel, Sr.’s sons share their dad’s passion for wine and innovation. Bernardo, the oldest, serves as technical director, while Manuel, Jr. focuses on the vineyards. The 2011 vintage found them actively evaluating their soils and vine nutrition and was their first vintage with separate vinification of different vineyard plots. The family’s next challenge is to convert 65 ha of their land to organic farming.

The impact of this innovation can be found in the glass. The Bodegas Fariña wines over deliver for the money, especially in the mid-range. At the lower end, fresh fruit flavors of strawberry and plum showed nicely in the Pimero 2011 ($n/a), a 100% Tempranillo wine, which begins with carbonic maceration before regular fermentation takes place. The Dama de Toro Tempranillo Roble 2010 ($13.00) was barrel aged for four months and offers more complexity with dried herbs, spice and a hint of the oak as well as strawberry aromas and flavors.

Even more complex, the Dama de Toro Crianza 2006 ($17.00) had aromas of strawberry, oak, herbs, balsamic notes, and spice, all of which persisted on the palate and culminated in long length. The winery’s special release, Bodegas Fariña 70th Anniversary 2009 ($25.00) had similar notes, but was more floral on both the nose and palate. And, to cap off one’s meal, the Val de Reyes “Tino Dulce” ($20.00) is a late-harvested Tempranillo wine with black raspberry, dried red fruit and cocoa, which was much lighter on the palate than Port.

Searching High and Low for Bordeaux (Grand Cru Grapevine: April 2012)

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At a recent Wine Media Guild lunch featuring Château d’Issan and Château Rauzan-Segla, it was stated that, “as Bordeaux goes, so does the whole industry,” with the further comment that, it was a “lynchpin by which other regions measure themselves.” And, with the iconic nature of these two Margaux producers, it is not surprising that the wines showed quite well that afternoon. Several months earlier, four Pauillac châteaux – Château Lynch Bages, Château Pontet-Canet, Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Clerc-Milon – gave equal pleasure to the assembled journalists.

However, with the price of the classified growths reaching astronomical figures, many wine drinkers feel priced out of the Bordeaux market. Yes, it’s true, wines from pedigreed châteaux have become the object of collectors who may never drink a drop rather than the cherished claret they once were. Such wines are the result of high scores and top reputations, which have made them more prized for their investment value than for their hedonistic value. But, thankfully, the majority of Bordeaux is still very much for drinking.

As an extremely large French wine region, representing 26% of all AOC (quality) wine produced in the country, Bordeaux is home to 63 appellations. Yet, Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC together comprise 55% of the total production. And, despite the volume this entails, Bordeaux has thousands of small, family-run estates such as Château Penin run by Patrick Carteyon, the fifth generation of his family to work in wine. Similarly, at Château de Bonhoste, winemaking is the domain of Yannick Fournier, while his sister, Sylvaine, and mother, Colette, tend to the vineyard.

Although these two appellations stem from grapes grown on both sides of the Garonne River, on its own, the Right Bank has been the scene of recent change. A new appellation – Côtes de Bordeaux – was established in 2009, providing these wines with more market recognition. For example, wines previously labeled as Blaye or Côtes de Francs were not instantly recognizable. Now, the name Bordeaux is featured prominently on their labels.

While not as prestigious as the wines from the various classifications, wines from these three appellations offer great value, with most under $20.00 and many in the $10.00-13.00 range. And, at these prices, you can take a chance on a bottle or two to try before splashing out on a whole case.

Château La Rivalerie, Côtes de Bordeaux Blanc 2009, Bordeaux, France, $N/A
(60% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sauvignon Gris and 20% Semillon)
This wine offers aromas of oak, bruised apple, citrus and ginger on the nose. With bright acidity and medium body, the flavors echo the nose and linger throughout the long finish.

Château La Goutere, Bordeaux Rouge 2009, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
(77% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc)
Hailing from vineyards located near Saint Emilion, this wine showed aromas of blackcherry, vanilla and a hint of oak on the nose. Its palate also offered notes of earth and herbs along with medium tannins.

Château Penin, Grande Selection Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2008, Bordeaux, France, $13.00
(100% Merlot)
Blackberry, plum and some herbal character were present on the nose. Showing a supple texture, the wine had good acidity, with flavors of blackberry, plum, dried herbs and slight oak notes.

Château Peynaud, Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2009, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
(50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc)
Aromas of spice, oak, vanilla and black cherry greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is very fruity, with similar notes.

Château Saincrit, Vieilles Vignes Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2008, Bordeaux, France, $18.00
(70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvigon and Cabernet Franc)
This château is owned by Florence Prudhomme who took over the property in 2003. Showing aromas of plum, raisin and spice on the nose, the palate gives way to blackcherry and oak.