Category Archives: France

Searching High and Low for Bordeaux (Grand Cru Grapevine: April 2012)

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At a recent Wine Media Guild lunch featuring Château d’Issan and Château Rauzan-Segla, it was stated that, “as Bordeaux goes, so does the whole industry,” with the further comment that, it was a “lynchpin by which other regions measure themselves.” And, with the iconic nature of these two Margaux producers, it is not surprising that the wines showed quite well that afternoon. Several months earlier, four Pauillac châteaux – Château Lynch Bages, Château Pontet-Canet, Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Clerc-Milon – gave equal pleasure to the assembled journalists.

However, with the price of the classified growths reaching astronomical figures, many wine drinkers feel priced out of the Bordeaux market. Yes, it’s true, wines from pedigreed châteaux have become the object of collectors who may never drink a drop rather than the cherished claret they once were. Such wines are the result of high scores and top reputations, which have made them more prized for their investment value than for their hedonistic value. But, thankfully, the majority of Bordeaux is still very much for drinking.

As an extremely large French wine region, representing 26% of all AOC (quality) wine produced in the country, Bordeaux is home to 63 appellations. Yet, Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC together comprise 55% of the total production. And, despite the volume this entails, Bordeaux has thousands of small, family-run estates such as Château Penin run by Patrick Carteyon, the fifth generation of his family to work in wine. Similarly, at Château de Bonhoste, winemaking is the domain of Yannick Fournier, while his sister, Sylvaine, and mother, Colette, tend to the vineyard.

Although these two appellations stem from grapes grown on both sides of the Garonne River, on its own, the Right Bank has been the scene of recent change. A new appellation – Côtes de Bordeaux – was established in 2009, providing these wines with more market recognition. For example, wines previously labeled as Blaye or Côtes de Francs were not instantly recognizable. Now, the name Bordeaux is featured prominently on their labels.

While not as prestigious as the wines from the various classifications, wines from these three appellations offer great value, with most under $20.00 and many in the $10.00-13.00 range. And, at these prices, you can take a chance on a bottle or two to try before splashing out on a whole case.

Château La Rivalerie, Côtes de Bordeaux Blanc 2009, Bordeaux, France, $N/A
(60% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sauvignon Gris and 20% Semillon)
This wine offers aromas of oak, bruised apple, citrus and ginger on the nose. With bright acidity and medium body, the flavors echo the nose and linger throughout the long finish.

Château La Goutere, Bordeaux Rouge 2009, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
(77% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc)
Hailing from vineyards located near Saint Emilion, this wine showed aromas of blackcherry, vanilla and a hint of oak on the nose. Its palate also offered notes of earth and herbs along with medium tannins.

Château Penin, Grande Selection Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2008, Bordeaux, France, $13.00
(100% Merlot)
Blackberry, plum and some herbal character were present on the nose. Showing a supple texture, the wine had good acidity, with flavors of blackberry, plum, dried herbs and slight oak notes.

Château Peynaud, Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2009, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
(50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc)
Aromas of spice, oak, vanilla and black cherry greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is very fruity, with similar notes.

Château Saincrit, Vieilles Vignes Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2008, Bordeaux, France, $18.00
(70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvigon and Cabernet Franc)
This château is owned by Florence Prudhomme who took over the property in 2003. Showing aromas of plum, raisin and spice on the nose, the palate gives way to blackcherry and oak.

Tavel, the Original Rosé (Grand Cru Grapevine: February 2012)

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If you only drink rosé in the summer – challenge that! Sure, rosé wines are perfect summer sipping wines with their lighter body, refreshing acidity and affinity for being served at cooler temperatures. However, meatier rosés can make a wonderful addition to the dinner table year-round and will provide a rosy hue for your Valentine. And, France’s Tavel is a perfect example.

Produced from vines originally brought to the Rhône Valley by the Romans, Tavel was first made for the popes at Avignon as early as the 1300s. With its lighter body, low tannins and fruit driven character, the Popes enjoyed these wines, which became famous as the most red of all pink wines. After finding favor with the clergy, Tavel continued its long history, receiving official recognition as a controlled appellation in 1936, becoming the first AOC rosé wine in France.

With the iron-rich, clay and sandstone soils on the Rhône’s Left Bank more suitable for red wines, Tavel vines are grown on the Rhône’s Right Bank. Known for the wind-blown silts and sand that were deposited by the mistral after the ice age, these vineyards offer ideal conditions for fruit-forward, less-structured wines. Here, the soils are composed primarily of limestone, which formed millions of years ago when the area was initially under the sea. The land was eventually pushed to the surface where its mineral content provides acidity, minerality and aroma to today’s wines. Referred to as garrigue, which is also the name for the scrub vegetation that grows on it, these scents include lavender, thyme, rosemary.

Theoretically, Tavel may be made from a blend of up to 15 different grapes, most of which are red. Yet, in practice, the wines are limited to nine varieties and no grape can constitute more than 60% of the blend. These authorized grapes span from Roman (Bourboulenc) and Spanish (Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre) origin to French (Syrah, Cinsault, Calitor, Clairette, Picpoul) varieties, all of which thrive in the sun-drenched climate.

Crafted using the saignée method, the wines undergo an average of 12-48 hours during which the fresh grape juice is in contact with the red skins before being bled off.  However, the soak may last up to 72 hours to pull significant tannins and color from the grape skins. Regardless of the time period, the wines are fermented at cool temperatures to preserve the intense aromatics.

The range of colors is determined by the combination of grape varieties, ripeness of the vintage (pH), temperature of the grapes at harvest, length of maceration and oxygen exposure. Moreover, the quickly oxidizing Grenache imbues the wines with more orange hues while high acid grapes add pinker tones. Finally, while Tavel has historically been known for its salmon hue, with the advent of modern technology, the wines are now more pink. And with the legal revisions made in 1997 that mandate the use of clear bottles, you’ll be able to admire the wine’s beautiful shade well before you pour it in your glass.

TASTING NOTES

Château d’Aqueria 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $18.00
(52% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 11% Mourvèdre, 9% Clairette, 9% Cinsault, 6% Bourboulenc, 2% Picpoul)
This deep pink wine offers up aromas of cherries and berries. Its medium acidity and medium tannins provide nice structure for the darker red fruits, which pervade the palate.

Domaine de la Mordorée La Dame Rousse 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $15.00
(56% Grenache, 20% Cinsault, 10% Clairette, 4% Syrah, 3% each – Mourvèdre, Bourboulenc and Grenache Blanc)
Medium pink in hue, this wine has aromas of berries, with some slight citrus pith and minerality, all of which persist on the palate. Vibrant acidity and light tannins result in a refreshing wine.

Domaine Maby la Forcadière 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $20.00
(70% Grenache, 10% Cinsault, 10% Grenache Blanc, 10% Other)
Decidedly salmon in color, this wine shows floral and berry notes. The palate has medium acidity, low tannins and is dominated by fresh berry fruit flavors.

Prieuré de Montézargues 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $19.00
(55% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 13% Clairette, 2% Other)
Pale pink, with salmon highlights, berries and herbs greet the nose on this wine. Flavors of citrus and berries linger on the lively palate.

Château de Trinquevedel 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $17.00
(60% Grenache, 15% Clairette, 10% Cinsault, 10% Syrah, 5% Bourboulenc)
With its medium pink appearance, this wine offers a range of floral, berry and herbal notes. Red berries and cherries are joined by a chalky/mineral character on the palate.

A Meeting of the (Winemakers’) Minds

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While it is great to hear from winemakers about their wines, it isn’t exactly a unique experience. However, listening to a panel of winemakers from around the globe talk about key issues in the wine world is a special treat. And, one perhaps made even better when that panel is moderated by Kevin Zraly.

In July 2010, amidst a torrential downpour, I arrived at Moet-Hennessy’s Chelsea offices damp, but not downtrodden. Welcoming the cup of coffee that was offered, I spent some time viewing various displays for Moet-Hennessy products. Once everyone had arrived and was assembled in the conference room, the Winemakers’ Forum began.

The panel included Leone Contini Bonacossi, Owner of Capezzana; Marc Sorrel, Estate Director for Chateau de Sancerre; Nicolas Audebert, Cheval des Andes’ winemaker; Ian Morden, Estate Director for Cloudy Bay; Joel Burt, Assistant Winemaker at Domaine Chandon; Andrea Leon, Winemaker for Casa Lapostolle; Andrea Felluga, Livio Felluga’s winemaker; Laura Bianchi, owner of Monsanto; Chris Millard, executive winemaker at Newton Vineyard; Winemaker Manuel Louzada from Numanthia; and Terrazas’ senior winemaker, Adrian Meyer.

Kevin kicked off the session by asking the winemakers to share their favorite wine memories, especially those that cemented their interest in, and love for, wine. For some, it was a single wine – perhaps a 1996 Bandol (Adrian), Krug 1928 (Nicolas) or a Bonne Mares from one’s birth year (Marc). For others, it was a particular experience – tasting sparkling wine in the winery with one’s grandfather (Manuel) or stealing down into the cellar at 13 (Andrea L.) or 5 (Leone) and drinking from either the bottle or barrel, respectively. And, as Ian reminded everyone, context is everything; “You can’t divorce wine from the occasion.”

Trekkies know that space is the final frontier, but Kevin next queried where in the world was the next wine frontier. There was a diversity of responses ranging from the need to explore higher altitudes due to climate change and the shift in wine styles to up-and-coming grape varieties and regions. There was no one grape variety identified, but rather, certain varieties were associated with new areas such as Syrah in New Zealand’s Hawkes Bay; Chenin Blanc in Stellenbosch, South Africa; Petit Verdot in Maipu, Chile; and the  rediscovery of Trebbiano, Malvasia and Friulano.

Building on the topic of change and innovation, the discussion then centered on changes in winemaking. On this, there was more consensus among panel members. Many spoke about the return to more traditional winemaking and a less is more approach. Another theme was an increased emphasis on the vineyard and terroir.

Viticultural advances were further noted such as drip irrigation and the development of rootstocks. A focus on balance was also mentioned, whether through canopy management, matching grape varieties with the right climate or achieving balance in the wine itself.

Here, Mary Ewing-Mulligan asked the panel to address the fact that the alcohol is not in balance even though winemakers say it’s not about alcohol. In response, Nicolas explained that sometimes waiting for full maturity in the grapes results in high alcohol levels. He added that while “[the alcohol level] could be high and be too much, it could [also] be high and you don’t feel it.” “I feel it,” said Mary.

With regard to wine in the market, both Laura and Marc lamented that consumption habits had declined in Europe, especially with the younger generation which drinks less wine and more beer and cocktails. While others agreed, Ian countered that new markets, especially China and Brazil, were becoming increasingly sophisticated with regard to wine.

More specific to the American market, Leone expressed pleasant surprise at the level of knowledge displayed by the people at her hotel’s reception desk. She was impressed with the broad picture they had on wine compared with young Italians whom, she said, have a more regional palate.

When Kevin mused about the outlook for the U.S. – Is it generally getting better? There was a resounding yes from the group. However, this sentiment needs to be tempered in light of recent economic issues.

And, what was their opinion of American wines? A number of people mentioned the quality of Oregon wines, naming its Pinot Noirs and sparkling wines in particular. However, Laura confessed that she had tasted American Sangiovese, but wasn’t worried about the competition (she produces Chianti, which is primarily made from Sangiovese).

Questioned about wine critics, the feeling was that critics play an important role, helping to narrow the field for the consumer. However, it was also admitted that, like any system, it has some good and bad elements associated with it. While Andrea L. stated that it was rewarding as a winemaker to receive high scores, Nicolas emphasized that, “if you are making wine as a passion, you are not making wine for critics.” Joel also suggested that the power of big critics is waning due to blogs, an opinion that Chris shared.

As a final topic, the conversation turned to biodynamics and organics. A few, such as Nicolas and Adrian, admitted that being organic was easy for them due to climatic conditions. Yet, Andrea F. and others pointed to high rainfall and humidity as impediments to such practices. However, the overall feeling was that such viticultural practices were crucial in and of themselves, not as marketing efforts. Consequently, many winemakers don’t indicate their practices on the label. In this regard, Joel proposed that, “It’s important to be stewards of the land,” an emotion echoed by Andrea F., who noted that, “We have to take care of the planet.”

Everything’s Coming Up (Sparkling) Rosés

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In a bold move (and equally bold attire – a pink shirt and gold tie), Hugh Davies, owner of Napa’s Schramsberg Vineyards, challenged some sharp palates to blind taste his J. Schram Rosé 2000 (SRP $130.00) against some of the best rosé Champagnes. The J. Schram Rosé 2000 is a blend of 75% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir, with grapes sourced from Napa, Mendocino, Sonoma, Monterey and Marin Counties and aged on its lees for seven years.

Confident that his wine would show well, tasters were given six flutes filled with varying shades of pink bubbles and asked to rank the wines from 1 to 6 (with 1 being their favorite). None of the tasters knew the identity of the other wines as they set off on their tasting journey.

Once the wines had been tasted and scored, the scores were tallied before the identities were revealed. The verdict? Collectively, the group chose the J. Scram 2000 as their favorite, with the Louis Roederer Cristal 2002 in 2nd place, followed by Perrier-Jouet 2002. My personal picks varied a bit, placing the Cristal first, the Perrier-Jouet second and the J. Schram in third place. I found the former two to be lighter and more delicate, but did still enjoy the J. Schram a lot.

The second flight of wines permitted attendees to taste through the J. Schram in various stages and from different vintages. More specifically, the 2009 pre-bottled, base blend of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir was compared with the post-bottle version. The wine has nicer qualities, but appeared young and disjointed given its incomplete stage. A 2006 J. Schram showed how, in time, the wine would become more integrated, while a comparison of the 2003 J. Schram – a natural sparkling version vs. the finished wine – provided a glimpse into the wine’s further development, with less fruit on the nose and more complexity on the palate. To finish off the flight, the 1993 J. Schram offered a sample of the aging potential of this wine.

The final flight of the day paired several different Schramsberg wines with a delicious lunch, showing the food friendly nature of these wines.

~Blanc de Blancs 2006 – Salmon crepe
~Blanc de Noirs 2006 – Wild mushroom and rice cake
~Reserve 2001 – Lobster Choux
~J. Davies 2006 (a still wine blended from 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Malbec, 6% Petit Verdot) – Lamb Skewers
~Crémant Demi-Sec 2005 (produced from 88% Flora, a cross between Gewurztraminer and Semillon) – Ham

Make Mine a Malbec

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The Wine Media Guild hosted Jean-Lous Carbonnier, representative of the International Malbec Association and Ricardo Giadorou of Argentina’s Dolium Winery at its November lunch. Featuring a tasting of Argentine and Cahors Malbecs, attendees had the opportunity to taste and compare these wines.

The Malbec grape originated in France and is currently grown in Bordeaux, the Loire Valley and Cahors. Wines from France’s Cahors region must be produced from a minimum of 70% Malbec, but Merlot and Tannat may also be a part of the blend. Most domains are modest in size, averaging 37 acres. The AOC was established in 1971, which helped to stimulate a rebirth of the area’s vineyards.

Despite Malbec’s association with France, it is planted in much greater numbers in Argentina, having arrives in the 1880s. The Dolium Winery is based in the cru of Lucan de Cuyo and is a gravity flow winery having been built underground. Fifteen percent of the winery’s 200,000 hectares are devoted to Malbec. Ricardo explained that in Argentina’s climate, Malbec was an extremely versatile grape, capable of producing concentrated wines. Compared to their Cahors counterparts, the Argentine Malbecs possess softer and sweeter tannins.

During the tasting, most people agreed that the Argentine Malbecs were much more fruit forward with black fruit and ripe tannins. Conversely, the Cahors wines were denser with tighter tannins and less fruit. A number of the Cahors showed notes of wet leaves and tar. A last minute addition to the tasting were three wines from Viu Manent’s Chilean properties. These wines seemed to be a cross between the Argentine and Cahors styles, with a certain elegance to their meaty and black and red fruit notes. The lone rose, which was from Dolium, was dry, yet fruity, with floral, berries and slight grapefruit pith note in the undercurrent, was a refreshing change to what was otherwise a line up of all red wines.

In addition, I had occasion to blind taste two Argentine Malbecs at home.

Redwood Creek Malbec 2009, Mendoza, Argentina
The wine had aromas of spice, black and bramble fruit and vanilla, with blackberry, blueberry, spice and oak on the palate. It had good acidity, with medium+ body, medium tannins, medium alcohol and medium+ length.

Layer Cake Malbec 2008, Mendoza, Argentina
This wine displayed smoke, oak, blackfruits, and faint notes of meat and mint on the nose, which persisted on the palate with a slightly jammy character to the fruit. A full-bodied wine, it had soft tannins. The length was medium+ in duration, but the high alcohol left a burn at the back of the palate in the finish.

The Redwood Creek wine showed brighter fruit and a more balanced alcohol, while the Layer Cake was more concentrated with riper, jammy bramble fruit.

 

The Circle of Life

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From year to year, winemakers get the opportunity to begin again and make a new wine from a new harvest. Each vintage sharing some of the same elements as the one before, yet making its own mark on the world.

The newest vintage of wines from Bordeaux’s Right Bank (Rive Droite) was premiered at a Le Cercle Rive Droite tasting in March. Accordingly, barrel samples from 2010 were on offer from chateau in Pomerol, St. –Emilion and other Right Bank appellations.

Baronne Guichard owns three separate properties, each with a unique terroir – Chateau Vray Croix de Gay in Pomoerol with gravely soils; Chateau Siaurac in Lalande de Pomerol with clays and gravels; and Chateau Le Prieure in St.-Emilion with soils of limestone and clay. Accordingly, the ability to do a mini-vertical and mini-horizontal tasting presented itself.

Proprietor Paul Goldschmidt describes the Chateau Le Prieure wine as being feminine and notes that the slopes are south-facing. The 2010 was very mineral in character with herbal notes (which Paul qualified as “Herbs de Provence, but under the shade”) and red fruit. The 2008 was similarly herbal with red fruit, but the minerality wasn’t present.

Paul characterizes the wines from Chateau Siaurac as being more masculine and explained that its appellation is known as the “poor man’s Pomerol” due to its lower price. The 2010 was intense with a concentrated nose of blackcherry, while the 2008 had mellowed and showed more red than black fruit.

The sample of Chateau Vray Croix de Gay has a slightly different make-up than its brethren, featuring more Merlot (90% vs. 80%) and thus less Cabernet Franc. The 2010 was concentrated with floral aromas while the palate had firm, tight tannins, blackcherry, some spice and long length. Similarly, the 2008 was rich, lush and ripe, but with the flavors and structure more closely knitted together with time.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Starry, Starry Night (December 2010)

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Dom Perignon is said to have uttered the statement, “Come quickly, I am tasting stars,” to his fellow monks, upon discovering Champagne. While he did not actually invent Champagne, Dom Perignon’s work in the cellar helped to better understand how to keep the sparkle in sparkling wine and solidified the roots of the Champagne industry. With the holiday season upon us, it is a time for celebration and for tasting stars ourselves, whether enjoying a holiday dinner or toasting the impending New Year.

Here at Grand Cru Classes, we are celebrating the end of another successful year. Tracy’s appearance on the Wine Portfolio television program aired in early November on CNBC World and featured NYC wine shopping excursions to Sherry-Lehmann, Bottle Rocket and Chelsea Wine Vault. If you missed this episode, you can check out Tracy’s segments on their own (Wine Seller and Brave New World).

In addition, this month finds Tracy off to Italy once again to visit the regions of Collio (near Trieste) and Prosecco (just north of Venice) to learn more about these wonderful wines produced in northeastern Italy.

May this season find you happy and healthy!

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer 

Starry, Starry Night

Sparkling wines always add a festive air to any occasion given that they harness the carbon dioxide produced through a secondary fermentation to capture the bubbles in the bottle. Wines produced in a very special, delimited area in northern France have taken the top title among sparkling wines as evidenced by the misappropriation of Champagne’s moniker for wines produced elsewhere. The chalky soils, cool climate and high acid retention, all lend themselves to creating a unique and well-regarded sparkler that takes significant time and talent to achieve. As a result, the wines of Champagne are highly sought after, with most other high quality sparkling wines emulating the Méthode Champenoise – referred to as the Traditional Method when used outside of the Champagne region. There are numerous factors that ultimately influence what ends up in the glass, but House style from a given producer is most attributed to six factors: terroir, grape varieties used; percentage of older wines used in the blend (aka reserve wines); aging period on the lees (dead yeast cells); dosage (sweetness level added at the end of the process); and the base wine (which depends upon the growing conditions of a given year). When brought together, these factors make up the style of wine.

Raise your glass this season in celebration and may you taste the stars!

Ayala Brut Majeur NV, Champagne, France, $36.00
Recently re-entered into the U.S. market, Ayala is owned by Bollinger. This wine is 45% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier and 35% Chardonnay and spent 2.5 years aging on the dead yeast cells. The nose is full of toast, mushroom and yeast. The light-bodied palate provides high acidity and yeasty and mushroom notes.

Nicholas Feuillatte Brut Rosé NV, Champagne, France, $40.00
Nicholas Feuillatte is a cooperative, owned by the growers who produce the grapes for its wines. Accordingly, these are high quality wines available at a more moderate price point. Notes of berries and toast greet the nose while the rich fruit flavors continue on the palate, culminating in its long length.

Gosset Grande Réserve NV, Champagne, France, $65.00
With a lengthy aging period of 5 years on the lees, this wine is full of brioche, bread and toast on the nose. A super-rich, fuller style of Champagne, the bready, brioche and toast flavors persist on the palate.

Pol Roger Brut 1999, Champagne, France
Reputed to be Winston Churchill’s favorite Champagne, this wine presents very toasted notes on the nose, which give way to lemon/citrus and brioche, which linger on the palate. 

Perrier-Jouet “Fleur de Champagne” Brut Rosé 2002, Champagne, France, $250.00
A splurge, but worth it, this wine is from the outstanding 2002 vintage and is Perrier-Jouet’s tete de cuvée. Pale salmon/onion skin in appearance with aromas of yeast, buttered roll and floral, this wine shows delicate notes of yeast, strawberry, with lively acidity and long length on the palate.

Beaujolais Nouveau 2010 arrives with Molly Sims, Franck Duboeuf and Peter Deutsch

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Molly Sims, Franck Duboeuf and Peter Deutsch welcome the Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2010...cirque style.

Like clockwork, the Beuajolais Nouveau arrived on the third Thursday of November, attended by a circus-style celebration for the 2010 harvest. Actress, model and jewelry designer, Molly Sims, was on hand to toast the first glass from Georges Duboeuf, with George’s son, Franck, serving as Master of Ceremonies under the big top at District 36. The luncheon, prepared by chef Marc Murphy (of Landmarc and now also Benchmarc catering), was accompanied by the Beaujolais Nouveau 2010 and the Morgon Jean Descombes 2009. Other Beaujolais crus were available at the self-pour bar during the initial reception. Overhead, attendees were treated to aerialists dangling from silks, while jugglers, magicians and contortionists dazzled at eye-level.

Beaujolais, whether Nouveau or not, is a wine made in the southernmost part of Burgundy from the Gamay grape. While Gamay is not most people’s favorite grape variety — often associated with prejorative aromas of bubble gum and banana, this year’s wine showed none of these characteristics and was simply pleasing with its ripe cherry fruit and soft tannins. And, it went nicely with the meal.

As a wine, Beaujolais Nouveau has both its share of proponents and detractors, but for me, it is more about the symbolism than the wine itself. Here we are in November, only a few weeks after the harvest and we have much to be thankful for and much to celebrate. Along comes Beaujolais Nouveau, ready to honor the year’s work. Most wines are still preparing for the party (and may take years to do so as they dress in layers of oak, vanilla and toast), but Beaujolais Nouveau and other wines produced in a nouveau-style are not only fully dressed, they are prepared to dance until dawn.

No, it is not a wine on which to meditate, but sometimes all you need is a simple glass of wine, good food and good friends in order to sit back and enjoy the good life. Salut!

Juggler at Beaujolais Nouveau celebration.

Chablis 2008 shines at Drouhin’s Domaine de Vaudon

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Laurent Drouhin, of Maison Joseph Drouhin, wants consumers  to know a few things about Burgundy. The first is that they don’t make Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. Rather, they make Chassagne-Montrachet, Chambolle-Musigny, Pommard, etc. In his view, the grapes, which are in fact Chardonnay for the whites and Pinot Noir for the reds, are merely a conduit through which the terroir can speak.

Another thing that Laurent would like folks to know is that Chablis, a very special terroir for white wines, is also in Burgundy.

And, finally, while he is proud of his family’s heritage as a negociant (a firm which purchases grapes from multiple growers to make wine), they are equally proud of their status as a land owner and producer, particularly in Chablis.

A recent tasting of the 2008 vintage from Drouhin’s Domaine de Vaudon proves that his pride is justly deserved.

The district level Chablis ($24.50) showed some complexity on the nose with  minerality and citrus fruit, both of which persisted on the palate along with the addition of green apple. The Reserve wine ($29.00), while similar in aromas and flavors, had a more pronounced nose and longer length on the palate.

Moving up in quality, the three Premier Cru wines (from grapes grown on highly rated vineyard land) all presented vibrant acidity, full body and citrus notes. The Premier Cru Montmains ($38.25) seemed to be the most complex of the three, with notes of apple, lime, earth and minerality.

However, it was the jump to the Grand Cru wines (those hailing from one of the seven best vineyards in Chablis) that really showed what world class Chablis is all about. The Grand Cru Bougros ($72.00) – incidently, Laurent pronounces the final “s” – had pronounced minerality, damp earth, bruised apple and a slight woody note on the nose, all of which re-appeared on the palate and remained throughout the exceedingly long finish. Slightly richer, with the perception of riper fruit on the nose and palate, the Grand Cru Vaudesir ($72.00) was slightly fuller and seemed to show a little more of the oak influence on the palate, although the use of oak was still restrained and elegant.

These latter wines were showing beautifully now, but indicated the ability to evolve and gain further complexity with age.

So, whether you drink them young or in time, enjoy these wines to the fullest. Just don’t call them Chardonnay.

The future is now – Bordeaux 2009 white and rose

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The 2009 vintage in Bordeaux continues to receive rave reviews, but for now, the only red wines available for purchase are being sold as futures. Instead, consumers can look to Bordeaux’s whites and rosés – yes, you read that right, rosés – for a taste of this vaunted vintage.

Château Penin AOC Bordeaux Clairet 2009, Bordeaux, France
Located within the area of Entre-deux-Mers in the village of Génissac, Chateau Penin has been in the Carteyron family since 1854. Patrick Carteyron, a member of the fifth generation, has been the current owner as of 1982. The château’s white wine is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, along with Sauvignon Gris. The remaining range of wines is predominantly produced with Merlot, the most widely planted grape in the Bordeaux region. Two of those wines are rosés – an AOC Bordeaux Clairet and an AOC Bordeaux Rosé.

The Château Penin Bordeaux Clairet is 100% Merlot. This wine spends 24-60 hours of maceration on the skins, which accounts for its depth of color. In addition, approximately 25% of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation, rounding out the acidity on the palate, before spending four months ageing on the lees. With its deep rose color, you have to look twice to confirm that this is in fact a rose wine, but its cherry and strawberry aromas confirm its identity. With medium acidity, medium+ body, bright fruit and low tannins, this is a structured and dense wine that drinks more like a chilled red than a rose, but certainly hits the spot on a hot summer’s day.

Château Les Vergnes Bordeaux Blanc 2009, Bordeaux, France
Château Les Vergnes has been involved in viticulture from the very beginning with efforts to establish a national plan to combat phylloxera at the start of the 19th century and experiments with the first use of potassium thiocarbonate in 1879. Today, the château is committed to preserving the environment and qualified for the title, l’Agriculture Raisonnée in 2005 for its sustainable agriculture practices. 

Its Bordeaux Blanc wine is produced from a blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Muscadelle and 10% Sémillon, with grapes sourced from throughout the Bordeaux region. The nose carries aromas of grapefruit, floral and a waxy/lanolin note (likely from the Sémillon). The dry palate boasts vibrant acidity with medium body and flavors of citrus, pith and a slight hint of lanolin, which persist throughout the medium+ length.