Category Archives: Chile

The Power of Pairing: South American-inspired cuisine with Chilean wines

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A recent lunch at team-building space Cooking by the Book reminded me how carefully crafted food and wine pairings can truly enhance both the food and the wine. Chef Ruth Van Waerebeek, culinary advisor to Concha y Toro, developed a special menu designed to showcase several of the company’s wide range of wines, echoing the flavors of the wines in the food and vice versa. As a result, both the cuisine and the wines were that much more enjoyable.

The Belgium-born chef has been captivated by the culinary flavors of South America for quite some time and brings these flavors together with her classic cooking techniques. Her first course married a Peruvian ceviche with an Asian twist. The cured salmon, coupled with a layer of cucumber rolls, matched beautifully with the citrus-centric Sauvignon Blanc. Chef Ruth suggested that the ceviche would also pair well with the aperitif wine, a coastal white blend of Chardonnay and Moscato.

Next, a creamy parmesan cheese budini with a small herb salad and orange segments was joined by the rich, creamy and elegant Chardonnay from a single vineyard in Limari Valley, Chile.

As the luncheon shifted from white wines to red, the cuisine remained relatively light, yet still worked well with the wines. A savory tart made with puff pastry and flavored with gorgonzola, walnut and fig was an unusual, but effective, foil for the Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah blend, proving that you can pair vegetarian entrees with red wine.

While all of the food was absolutely delicious, the final course was my favorite. Grilled lamb with merquen adobo and a Chilean-style mint salsa was served on a bed of quinoa and accompanied by a Cabernet Sauvignon from the Puente Alto Vineyard in Chile’s Maipo Valley.

Overall, the meal reinforced how a deliberate emphasis on matching specific wines to very specific dishes can create a truly magical experience.

If you want to experience Chef Ruth’s talents firsthand, you can stay at her beautiful adobe-style home, Mapuyampay, in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. At this “Land of Resplendence,” guests can engage in hands-on cooking classes as well as make visits to wineries in the Curicó Valley. Mapuyampay Hostal Gastronomico & Cooking School

Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Coastal White 2011, Limari Valley, Chile, $12.00
A new addition to Concha y Toro’s portfolio, this floral and tropical fruit-focused wine is slightly off-dry and very easy drinking.

Concha y Toro Gran Reserva Serie Riberas (Riverbank Series) Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Colchagua Valley, Chile, $18.00
Herbal and citrus aromas. Dry with crisp acidity, white grapefruit, slight pith in finish, long length.

Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2011, Limari Valley, Chile, $23.00
Produced in a Meursault style, this barrel-fermented and oak aged Chardonnay is very restrained and elegant with crisp acidity, red apple, toothpick/woody notes and good length.

Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Reserva Privada 2009, Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah, Maipo Valley, Chile, $15.00
This 85% Cabernet Sauvignon-15% Syrah blend offered black cherry, black berry, earth and light herbal notes on both the nose and palate with firm, but ripe, tannins, medium acidity and full body.

Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Puente Alto, Chile, $26.00
A varietally-correct Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is restrained, elegant and beautifully balanced.

A Meeting of the (Winemakers’) Minds

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While it is great to hear from winemakers about their wines, it isn’t exactly a unique experience. However, listening to a panel of winemakers from around the globe talk about key issues in the wine world is a special treat. And, one perhaps made even better when that panel is moderated by Kevin Zraly.

In July 2010, amidst a torrential downpour, I arrived at Moet-Hennessy’s Chelsea offices damp, but not downtrodden. Welcoming the cup of coffee that was offered, I spent some time viewing various displays for Moet-Hennessy products. Once everyone had arrived and was assembled in the conference room, the Winemakers’ Forum began.

The panel included Leone Contini Bonacossi, Owner of Capezzana; Marc Sorrel, Estate Director for Chateau de Sancerre; Nicolas Audebert, Cheval des Andes’ winemaker; Ian Morden, Estate Director for Cloudy Bay; Joel Burt, Assistant Winemaker at Domaine Chandon; Andrea Leon, Winemaker for Casa Lapostolle; Andrea Felluga, Livio Felluga’s winemaker; Laura Bianchi, owner of Monsanto; Chris Millard, executive winemaker at Newton Vineyard; Winemaker Manuel Louzada from Numanthia; and Terrazas’ senior winemaker, Adrian Meyer.

Kevin kicked off the session by asking the winemakers to share their favorite wine memories, especially those that cemented their interest in, and love for, wine. For some, it was a single wine – perhaps a 1996 Bandol (Adrian), Krug 1928 (Nicolas) or a Bonne Mares from one’s birth year (Marc). For others, it was a particular experience – tasting sparkling wine in the winery with one’s grandfather (Manuel) or stealing down into the cellar at 13 (Andrea L.) or 5 (Leone) and drinking from either the bottle or barrel, respectively. And, as Ian reminded everyone, context is everything; “You can’t divorce wine from the occasion.”

Trekkies know that space is the final frontier, but Kevin next queried where in the world was the next wine frontier. There was a diversity of responses ranging from the need to explore higher altitudes due to climate change and the shift in wine styles to up-and-coming grape varieties and regions. There was no one grape variety identified, but rather, certain varieties were associated with new areas such as Syrah in New Zealand’s Hawkes Bay; Chenin Blanc in Stellenbosch, South Africa; Petit Verdot in Maipu, Chile; and the  rediscovery of Trebbiano, Malvasia and Friulano.

Building on the topic of change and innovation, the discussion then centered on changes in winemaking. On this, there was more consensus among panel members. Many spoke about the return to more traditional winemaking and a less is more approach. Another theme was an increased emphasis on the vineyard and terroir.

Viticultural advances were further noted such as drip irrigation and the development of rootstocks. A focus on balance was also mentioned, whether through canopy management, matching grape varieties with the right climate or achieving balance in the wine itself.

Here, Mary Ewing-Mulligan asked the panel to address the fact that the alcohol is not in balance even though winemakers say it’s not about alcohol. In response, Nicolas explained that sometimes waiting for full maturity in the grapes results in high alcohol levels. He added that while “[the alcohol level] could be high and be too much, it could [also] be high and you don’t feel it.” “I feel it,” said Mary.

With regard to wine in the market, both Laura and Marc lamented that consumption habits had declined in Europe, especially with the younger generation which drinks less wine and more beer and cocktails. While others agreed, Ian countered that new markets, especially China and Brazil, were becoming increasingly sophisticated with regard to wine.

More specific to the American market, Leone expressed pleasant surprise at the level of knowledge displayed by the people at her hotel’s reception desk. She was impressed with the broad picture they had on wine compared with young Italians whom, she said, have a more regional palate.

When Kevin mused about the outlook for the U.S. – Is it generally getting better? There was a resounding yes from the group. However, this sentiment needs to be tempered in light of recent economic issues.

And, what was their opinion of American wines? A number of people mentioned the quality of Oregon wines, naming its Pinot Noirs and sparkling wines in particular. However, Laura confessed that she had tasted American Sangiovese, but wasn’t worried about the competition (she produces Chianti, which is primarily made from Sangiovese).

Questioned about wine critics, the feeling was that critics play an important role, helping to narrow the field for the consumer. However, it was also admitted that, like any system, it has some good and bad elements associated with it. While Andrea L. stated that it was rewarding as a winemaker to receive high scores, Nicolas emphasized that, “if you are making wine as a passion, you are not making wine for critics.” Joel also suggested that the power of big critics is waning due to blogs, an opinion that Chris shared.

As a final topic, the conversation turned to biodynamics and organics. A few, such as Nicolas and Adrian, admitted that being organic was easy for them due to climatic conditions. Yet, Andrea F. and others pointed to high rainfall and humidity as impediments to such practices. However, the overall feeling was that such viticultural practices were crucial in and of themselves, not as marketing efforts. Consequently, many winemakers don’t indicate their practices on the label. In this regard, Joel proposed that, “It’s important to be stewards of the land,” an emotion echoed by Andrea F., who noted that, “We have to take care of the planet.”

Grand Cru Grapevine: Where the Bargains Are…Revisited (November 2009)

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Wow, Fall seems to be literally flying by as Grand Cru Classes completes a whirlwind of projects in October and November. Among our many endeavors, we are thrilled to be providing staff training to the esteemed Four Seasons Restaurant in Manhattan and for Park Place Wines in tony East Hampton.

In between preparing custom training materials and introducing dozens of people to the world of wine, Tracy has had her nose in the books as she studied for Year 1 (of 3) of the American Wine Society’s Wine Judging Certification program. An educational session and Year 1 exam were presented at the annual conference held in Destin, Florida earlier this month. She also “appeared” on Heritage Radio Network’s At the Root of It with Erin Fitzpatrick for the October 27 episode.

November marks the end of our public class sessions in Mattituck for 2009, so if you wish to take a class with us this season, please check our schedule and sign up. Public classes will resume in May. However, private events may be booked with us all year.

In fact, as the allure of the holiday season comes upon us, why not consider a special wine tasting or wine and cheese event in place of your usual holiday party? With years of event planning experience, we can provide you with an elegant affair that your guests will fondly remember.

Beyond entertaining, Grand Cru Classes offers beautifully-packaged gift certificates. Give the gift of a public wine class, a private wine event or consultation services for wine shopping or developing a wine cellar. To make your gift even more special, all gift certificates purchased between now and December 31 will be sent with a set of handmade wine charms.

Finally, if you need to stock up on break-resistant, crystal stemware, now is the time. These glasses also make great gifts. Our next order with Schott-Zweisel will be placed by November 30th. Please contact us directly to receive a catalog of style choices and pricing.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

WHERE THE BUYS ARE…REVISITED

A recent study, commissioned by Italian wine producer Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, revealed interesting differences between Italian and U.S. wine consumers. It seems that Italian wine drinkers are more focused on quality and thus, continue to buy wine at the same quality levels as previously during this economic downturn. However, they are buying fewer bottles. Conversely, according to a Nielsen Group study, during this recession, Americans are drinking in the same quantities, but have adjusted the price point of their purchases. Accordingly, if one used to buy wine in the $15-$20 range, that same consumer is likely now buying wines in the $10-$15 price bracket. With this in mind, we turn our attention to tips and tricks for finding where the bargains are.

Lesser-known Neighbors
In wine, as in real estate, it’s all about location, location, location. With the popularity of key grape varieties, wine regions or both, the price of these wines escalates. Meanwhile, wines that hail from “the wrong side of the tracks” can offer consumers great value. More specifically, if you enjoy the crisp acidity, citrus aromas and flavors and minerality of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé from France’s Loire Valley, look to the villages of Quincy, Reuilly and Menetou-Salon for similarly styled wines at lower price points. The vaunted Sauternes of Bordeaux is prized for its botrytis-affected dessert wines, but the favorable conditions that exist to create these wines are not confined to this single area. Wines from satellite communes Loupiac, Cadillac, Cerons and Ste. Croix du Mont may not have the same longevity, but will provide better bang for your buck for early consumption.

Know thy Vintage and/or Producer
Scaling back on your Burgundy purchases? Generic appellations (AC Bourgogne vs. AC Gevry-Chambertin) from well-regarded négociants (such as Latour, Drouhin and Jadot) will provide good quality wines less expensively. Other Burgundian options are to seek out wines from districts other than the famed Côtes de Nuits and Côtes de Beaune (collectively known as the Côte d’Or) – Côte Chalonnaise offers good Pinot Noirs while Macon, especially Pouilly-Fuissé) is regarded for its Chardonnays. Bordeaux is all about vintage, so choose lesser known producers in great years (2000, 2003, 2005) or search out better producers in “shadow vintages,” those years that got lost in the hoopla of better rated vintages (i.e., 2001 and 2004), for more reasonable options.

Where the Buys Are 2009
Still considered up and coming, Chilean wines are seeing significant improvement in their quality while still being available at the lower end of the market. In particular, Sauvignon Blanc from Leyda and Carmenere from the Maule Valley are terrific choices. Finally, don’t overlook Long Island. While often thought to be expensive wines, a recent blind tasting of Long Island wines pitted against their international peers found that not only did the wines compare favorably on the palate, they usually much less expensive than the competition.

Tasting Notes

Cascina Ca’Rossa, Roero Arneis «Merica» 2008, Piedmont, Italy, $14.95
This wine is made from the Arneis grape, which is indigenous to the Piedmont region, located in northwestern Italy. On the nose, there are aromas of floral, almond and honey. On the palate, flavors of lime, almond, straw and honey linger throughout the long length. 

Pierre Sparr, Selection Series Riesling 2008, Alsace, France, $14.00
As with most Alsatian wines, this one is varietally correct, truly showing off Riesling’s peach and citrus aromas and flavors. The palate is dry with high acidity and medium length. 

Channing Daughters, Scuttlehole Chardonnay 2008, The Hamptons, $16.00
This unoaked Chardonnay held its own when blind tasted amidst wines from Chablis and Pouilly-Fuissé. Youthful aromas of floral, mineral and lime persist on the palate and are joined by lemon and stone. Crisp acidity and concentrated fruit are balanced by its full body.

Château Teyssier, St. Emilion Grand Cru 2006, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
Aromas of black fruit and molasses greet the nose. The palate is dry with medium acidty and medium tannins, along with flavors of blackberry, coffee, and spice. 

Casas Patronales, Carmenere Reserva 2008, Maule Valley, Chile, $10.00
This producer’s Reserva wines spend 6 months aged in oak, but the wines are not overly oaky. The Carmenere is dry with medium body and medium acidity. Its palate is spicy with red fruits/raspberry and slight earth flavors culminating in medium+ length.