Category Archives: Wine Education

A Fresh Look at Frascati

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Fontana Candida's winemaker, Mauro Merz

Long the ambassador for Italian wines, Frascati adopted a low profile as a light-bodied quaffer – easy to drink, but just as easily dismissed. However, when the focus shifts to providing a product that is, above and beyond, authentic and of the highest quality, this is a wine that can also offer a refreshing surprise.

Named for the town of Frascati within Lazio and proximate to Rome, the Frascati DOC was the first one established back in 1966. This traditional wine is a white blend comprised primarily of Malvasia de Lazio and/or Malvasia di Candia, along with Trebbiano Toscano, Trebbiano Gialla, Greco, Bombino (and somewhat more controversial, up to 10% of aromatic, international varieties, ie. Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc).

The leader in this region, Fontana Candida, believes that wine must bring joy; be made naturally; and be an expression of its place. With this philosophy in mind, the company continues to work on improving brand Frascati for both itself and the region at large. To that end, they hired an agronomist and offered his services free of charge to the local growers – small, family farms.

While the motive was admittedly selfish — they wanted to source better fruit — growers who bought into these changes have reaped the rewards of Fontana Candida’s largesse. Not only did they receive the free consultation, but now also earn significantly more for their grapes when selling to Fontana Candida. Moreover, at a time when the delimited area is shrinking due to Rome’s urbanization projects and an overall decline in grape prices, Fontana Candida has committed to maintaining its higher prices, paying up to 40% over the base in incentives.

The resulting wines show off the quality of vineyard work coupled with the true expression of tradition and terroir. The flagship Fontana Candida Frascati Superiore DOC (SRP $10.00) is fresh and fruity, but with the weight to stand up to food. And, of particular interest, they are capable of aging.

No really. A mini-vertical of their Vigneto Santa Teresa Frascati Superiore 1997, 2001 and 2004 wines proved the point in spades. Winemaker Mauro Merz stresses that the wines will not necessarily improve with time, they will evolve and last. With a certain gravitas, these wines displayed both elegance and depth. Whereas the young wine displayed fresher notes of green apple and a slightly savory aspect, the older wines showed honey, bruised fruit (pear and apple) and dried herbs. The most mature (1997) showed signs of age with a slightly oxidative character on the nose, but was still enjoyable with its palate cleaner than its nose.

Equally delightful were the producer’s Luna Mater wines (SRP $23.00). First produced in 2008 in celebration of Fontana Candida’s 50th anniversary, the wine is made with select lots from older vines averaging 50 years and aged in large Acacia wood casks (which was selected for its ability to bring out the best characteristics of Malvasia grape). However, the intention is not to dominate the wine with wood. Rather, the aging extracts the wood tannins, lending structure and longevity to the finished wines, the former of which was evident upon tasting these wines as were aromas and flavors of pear and almond.

With its motto “Quality above all,” it is clear that Fontana Candida is producing wines of depth, elegance and richness that can be enjoyed in their youth as well as their more golden years. Either way, the wines offered a fresh look at old faithful Frascati.

Navarra: Ancient Kingdom of Modern Wines

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Our mother made the pimentos, she tells us. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we sit outside under the shade of an arbor on a sun-filled summer’s day. An enormous feast is suddenly set before us – salad, sausages, tortillas, jamon, pimentos, cheese, while bottles of wine, tasted earlier at the Ochoa winery, stand at attention, ready to poured. We are joined by Adrianna, Beatriz and Pablo and are treated like dear old friends of the family.

A few days later, a modern box suspended high above the vineyards serves as the site for lunch. Javier points out the Otazu winery and other buildings on the estate from this vantage point. Juxtaposed, the two scenes seem unlinked, but, in fact, they are indicative of Navarra’s dichotomy of old and new co-existing throughout the region.

Two wolves adorn the Ochoa crest, the Basque word for which is ochoa. The family can trace its winemaking roots to a document dated 1370 in which Queen Juana (Carlos II’s wife) orders payment to wine merchant, Ochoa de Ayanz. Several towns away, in Ujué, a mural in a Romanesque church features a similar crest, almost as further evidence of the Ochoa heritage. Stretching back farther to the Romans, Navarra has been at the crossroads of many cultures for centuries. At Villa Romana de Arellano, the dolias unearthed by a farmer show that wine was an important product from the very beginning.

More currently, Ochoa has played a pivotal role in Navarra’s wine industry with Javier Ochoa’s role in establishing EVENA (Navarra Viticulture and Oenology Station). Continuing the family’s winemaking legacy, daughter Adriana recently took over as head winemaker and sister, Beatriz, handles marketing and sales. Reflective of Navarra’s international outlook, Adriana studied viticulture and enology in Bordeaux, France and worked the harvest in Australia before taking the reins from dad.

This duality of tradition and modernity can be seen over and over again in different forms. When we arrive, the town of Puente la Reina is bustling with activity – people sit outside in cafes and bars enjoying tapas and other treats in the summer’s afternoon. A veritable tower of Babel, a mix of languages and accents are heard as we catch snippets of conversations when we pass by. The year is 2011, but we would have found a nearly identical scene had it been 1211. Situated along the Camino de Santiago, Puente la Reina, in the heart of Navarra, is just one of the many towns that were built to provide the pilgrims with food and shelter as they made their way to Santiago de Campostela, bringing their customs and cultures as they passed through.

Further down the road, the well-worn and well-signed path snakes its way past a medieval castle at Castillo Monjardin. The castle and its eponymous winery are presided over by Sonia and her husband, Victor. While not part of Spain’s monarchy, there is a royal air about the place, which recalls Navarra’s history as a separate kingdom (maintaining its independence until it succumbed to the Castilian empire in 1512).  Planted to Chardonnay, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, their vineyards underscore Navarra’s link to France. In fact, the Compte de Champagne, Theobald, also held the title of King of Navarra.

Similarly, at Otazu, Javier leads us through the ancient cellars, stopping to point out an alter that dates to the 14th century. After walking the long corridor, we turn to our right and are confronted by a set of glass doors that serve as the entrance to the new barrel room. Though just steps away, we are suddenly transported seven centuries to what is best described as a modern temple truly dedicated to Bacchus, with 1,000+ French oak barrels resting under the vaulted ceiling.

Nearby, St. Martin de Unx’s winemaker proudly professes the winery’s commitment to Spanish varieties: Garnacha, Tempranillo and Viura. While the co-op sticks to traditional grapes, it is experimenting with Navarran oak, grown in local forests, and, as he is quick to point out, are the only ones to be conducting such trials, another point of pride. In a nod to the future, the winery also created a semi-sweet rosé to appeal to the younger generation of Spaniards who crave Coke® instead of wine.

Testing is also alive and well at Inurrieta, which planted Sauvignon Blanc before it became an authorized grape for the DO. Now, its two Sauvignon Blancs garner critical acclaim.

Produced from both native and international grape varieties, Navarra’s wines speak to the history and tradition of the region, while making room for what is to come. However, what is most striking about these wines is their quality. In tasting one after another, there was concentration, complexity and beautiful balance. Even more amazing, when inquiring about retail prices, most wines fall under $20.00, with quite a few under $15.00.

With its long tenure of winemaking, international influences and openness to trying new things, Navarra’s wineries remain true to this heritage. What the future holds for Navarra is anyone’s guess, but it is sure to be focused on innovation, while being strongly anchored in the region’s culturally diverse past.

 

Tasting Notes

Inurrieta Orchidea Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Navarra, Spain, $10.00
While Sauvignon Blanc is newly authorized for the region, Inurrieta produces two, with the Orchidea its unwooded venture with this grape. Aromas of citrus and tropical fruit give way to high acidity, citrus, especially grapefruit, with a slight floral note. The sur lie treatment adds some roundness to the palate, which culminates in medium+ length.

Castillo de Monjardin Chardonnay Reserva 2007, Navarra, Spain, $19.00
Castillo de Monjardin is the only one producing a Reserva-level Chardonnay. Having been barrel fermented and aged in French oak, this wine provides notes of apple, spice, butterscotch and vanilla on the nose. Its palate is full-bodied with apple, lime, spice and slight oak flavors. Overall, this wine is complex, bright and creamy, with long length.

Ochoa Rosado Lágrima 2010, Navarra, Spain, $11.00
Navarra is well-known for its rosés (aka rosados) and with good reason. The more “serious” of Ochoa’s rosés, the Lágrima is comprised of 50% each of Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon, with deep pink hue. Floral and berry aromas persist on the palate, along with depth and structure due to the wine’s slight tannic grip, herbal character and long length.

Senorio de Unx Reserva 2004, Navarra, Spain, $20.00
Produced from 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnarcha, the Reserva spent 15 months in a combination of French and American oak. The nose offers dried herbs, floral, spice and raisin, while the palate emphasizes dried figs, red fruit and sweet spice. With its medium+ tannins, full body and long length, this wine could continue to age and develop with time.

Otazu Pago de Otazu 2006, Navarra, Spain, $32.00
The Pago designation, which supersedes the DOCa level, was added to Spain’s wine laws in 2006 and is only awarded to very best estates (to date, there are only 10 Vinos de Pago throughout all of Spain). A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Tempranillo, this wine displays wet earth, dried herbs, red fruit and cinnamon on the nose. The full-bodied palate has medium+ acidity, medium tannins with notes of red fruit and earth, which linger in the long length.

Desperately Seeking Clarity in Chianti

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Chianti DOCG is the largest Italian region producing 105,000,000 bottles annually from 2,650 producers with a total of 10,500 hectares planted in the region. However, its landscape is quite fragmented with more than 1,000 Chianti producers owning less than 1 hectare. With the U.S. as a major market for this wine, Chianti is trying to reshape its image in the minds of the American consumer. To that end, Chianti has seen some rebounding as the economy has improved, with significant growth in the over $29.00 sector and smaller gains in the $10.00-$15.00 retail band.

Among its efforts, a trade tasting was held in New York on behalf of Chianti’s Consortio. Welcoming everyone, panel moderator Robin Kelley-O’Connor, set the stage stating that the day’s event was all about “Taking the confusion out of Chianti.” He underscored his point, promising to provide attendees with “clarity.”

Robin then proceeded to go through a Powerpoint presentation, which began with Chianti’s timeline, beginning in 1932 with the first formal demarcation of the area. By 1967, Chianti regulations were updated to establish the region as a DOC and then, in 1984, to promote its status to DOCG. Since 1996, there have been numerous regulation changes, but most of them have been minor as far as the consumer is concerned, i.e. reorganization of the Consorzio.

The presentation also highlighted the historic grape varieties permitted in Chianti – Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Trebbiano and Malvasia, the latter two are white grapes. Among Sangiovese, there are 20 approved clones in total, with C Futuro 1, C Futuro 2, C Futuro 3, and C Futuro 4 being the most used.

The region’s emphasis on clones addresses the climatic and soil differences within the large geographic area. The Consorzio’s President, Giovanni Busi, stressed that the use of clones has significantly improved Chianti’s quality, which ultimately led to the changes in the Chianti “formula” which now permit the use of 100% Sangiovese and mandate a minimum of 70%. However, Busi also stressed that 40% of the vineyards need to be replanted in the next few years to achieve further quality and improve productivity.

Aside from Sangiovese, the balance of the wine may be produced from 30% Tuscan regional varieties (such as Canaiolo), of which a maximum of 10% may be white varieties. This is a big change from the original legislation which required producers to blend with white grapes. A producer looking to incorporate Cabernet Franc or Cabernet Sauvignon in his or her wine is limited to a maximum of 15%.

To achieve the Chianti Superiore DOCG designation, the wines must be produced from lower yields and a slightly higher minimum alcohol level (10.5% for Chianti, 11% for Chianti from the subdistricts and 11.5% for Superiore).

So far, the audience seemed to be following the presentation. Then things got tricky when the conversation turned to the Riserva designation. The regulation was stated as being a minimum of two years of aging from January 1 following the harvest, plus an even higher minimum alcohol level of 12%. But, it was far from clear as to whether and, if so, for how long, the wine must be aged in wood to earn the title of Riserva.

At first we were told 18 months, but later this period was amended to 6 months when we tasted the first wine and there was no mention of oak aging on the tasting sheet. This oversight was attributed to a typo rather than a lack of wood by the producer. Unfortunately, in an attempt to confirm the actual law, neither the Consorzio’s website nor the beautiful brochure distributed at the event included a definitive answer. A brief search on the Internet later on did not yield one either.

After the formal presentation, Robin led the group is a tasting of Chianti Riserva DOCG wines from the 2007 vintage, which is considered to be a good vintage. While there were differences in styles among the wines, they all showed the classic Chianti aromas and flavors of tart red fruit (especially cherry) and leathery notes, with astringency on the palate.

Make Mine a Malbec

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The Wine Media Guild hosted Jean-Lous Carbonnier, representative of the International Malbec Association and Ricardo Giadorou of Argentina’s Dolium Winery at its November lunch. Featuring a tasting of Argentine and Cahors Malbecs, attendees had the opportunity to taste and compare these wines.

The Malbec grape originated in France and is currently grown in Bordeaux, the Loire Valley and Cahors. Wines from France’s Cahors region must be produced from a minimum of 70% Malbec, but Merlot and Tannat may also be a part of the blend. Most domains are modest in size, averaging 37 acres. The AOC was established in 1971, which helped to stimulate a rebirth of the area’s vineyards.

Despite Malbec’s association with France, it is planted in much greater numbers in Argentina, having arrives in the 1880s. The Dolium Winery is based in the cru of Lucan de Cuyo and is a gravity flow winery having been built underground. Fifteen percent of the winery’s 200,000 hectares are devoted to Malbec. Ricardo explained that in Argentina’s climate, Malbec was an extremely versatile grape, capable of producing concentrated wines. Compared to their Cahors counterparts, the Argentine Malbecs possess softer and sweeter tannins.

During the tasting, most people agreed that the Argentine Malbecs were much more fruit forward with black fruit and ripe tannins. Conversely, the Cahors wines were denser with tighter tannins and less fruit. A number of the Cahors showed notes of wet leaves and tar. A last minute addition to the tasting were three wines from Viu Manent’s Chilean properties. These wines seemed to be a cross between the Argentine and Cahors styles, with a certain elegance to their meaty and black and red fruit notes. The lone rose, which was from Dolium, was dry, yet fruity, with floral, berries and slight grapefruit pith note in the undercurrent, was a refreshing change to what was otherwise a line up of all red wines.

In addition, I had occasion to blind taste two Argentine Malbecs at home.

Redwood Creek Malbec 2009, Mendoza, Argentina
The wine had aromas of spice, black and bramble fruit and vanilla, with blackberry, blueberry, spice and oak on the palate. It had good acidity, with medium+ body, medium tannins, medium alcohol and medium+ length.

Layer Cake Malbec 2008, Mendoza, Argentina
This wine displayed smoke, oak, blackfruits, and faint notes of meat and mint on the nose, which persisted on the palate with a slightly jammy character to the fruit. A full-bodied wine, it had soft tannins. The length was medium+ in duration, but the high alcohol left a burn at the back of the palate in the finish.

The Redwood Creek wine showed brighter fruit and a more balanced alcohol, while the Layer Cake was more concentrated with riper, jammy bramble fruit.

 

Grand Cru Grapevine: Promoting Prosecco (February 2011)

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What a winter this is shaping up to be. With snow, snow and more snow piling up (at least for us Eastcoasters), it’s enough to make one wish they were hibernating for the season. Fortunately, grapevines go dormant for the winter season, so they are slumbering through all of the storms.

Tracy is lucky enough to have a brief respite early this month as she heads to Miami for the Simply Italian: Great Wines South Florida Tour. Once there, she will be presenting to the trade and press on the U.S. Wine Market and on the Friuli Grave DOC.

Upon her return, we’ll be packing for our trip to New Zealand for which we depart in mid-February. Our itinerary includes visits to numerous wine regions on both the North and South Islands, so we’ll have a lot to share with you when we get back.

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
      and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

Promoting Prosecco

Prosecco Superiore DOCG

The twinkling lights of the holidays are all but a dim memory (or at least they should be – if you still have your Christmas lights up, it’s more than time to take them down). But, sparkling wines can continue to take their place at the table this month.

In fact, much like the aptly named dessert, Tira Misu, which is traditional to the Treviso province, Prosecco can be the perfect “pick me up” during these dreary winter days. An Italian sparkler from the Veneto region, this wine has recently been promoted to DOCG status – Italy’s highest quality tier.

While previously produced from a grape known as Prosecco, the proliferation of “Prosecco” wines diluted the quality within the market, with bottles from Brazil taking up space on the shelf next to the true Prosecco. Not surprisingly, there was much confusion for the consumer.

Accordingly, the restrictions on what is (and isn’t) Prosecco were tightened in 2009, taking effect with the 2010 vintage. Among the changes instituted, Prosecco itself now refers to a territory and the grape is now called Glera, of which a minimum of 85% must be used. If not produced with 100% Glera, the remaining 15% can be made up of Verdis, Perera, Bianchetta, Glera Lugna, Pinot Nero, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and/or Chardonnay.

Moreover, there are now two levels of Prosecco – Prosecco DOC and Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. The former comprises nine provinces spread out among two regions (Veneto and Friuli), while the latter is confined to 15 communes within the Veneto’s Treviso province. The delimited area for the DOCG includes 4,500 planted hectares, 166 wineries and 3,000 growers.

In general, Proseccos are fresh and fruity, exhibiting the aromatic characteristics of the Glera grape. Produced via the Italian (aka Charmat) method of sparkling wine production, the floral and fruit aromas and flavors are retained, rather than masked through the use of stainless steel and minimal contact with yeast/lees (unlike the Traditional method). Refermentation is typically limited to 25-60 days, with an additional 30 days of bottle age, before release. Meant to be drunk young, the wines are increasingly being vintage-dated (most were previously non-vintaged) to provide the consumer with more information.

Wines may be labeled as being from Conegliano, Valdobbiadene or both, with Conegliano wines emphasizing fruit over floral notes and being slightly more structured. Conversely, Valdobbiadene wines show very developed floral aromas and more delicacy. Similarly to other sparkling wines, Proseccos will be labeled with a sweetness indication – Brut, Extra Dry, Dry or Demi-Sec – with the drier Brut style wines being more modern and the Extra Dry wines (which are only slightly sweet) among the most traditional.

Within the DOCG classification, look for wines labels as Cartizze, the “Grand Cru” of Prosecco Superiore, produced from a mere 106 hectares of vineyard located at the top of Valdobbiadene’s steep hills. In addition, Rive, a new classification introduced with the new regulations, indicates a wine that was hand-harvested from a single vineyard, with lower yields and produced in one of Prosecco Superiore’s subzones.

With a wealth of Prosecco wines from which to choose, nearly all of which will be quite pocket-friendly, it is easy to add some sparkle to your snow day and celebrate Prosecco’s promotion.

Prosecco in the glass

TASTING NOTES
Bel Canto di Bellussi, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Extra Dry, Veneto, Italy, $13.00
Purchased by the Martellozzo family in 1993, Belllusi is presently run by Enrico, the third generation in his family to work in the wine business. With a fine perlage, this wine displays red apple and floral notes on both the nose and palate. Off-dry and light, it is quite elegant.   

Bortolomiol, “Motus Vitae” Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Millesimato, Veneto, Italy, $NA
Run by four daughters and their mother, Bortolomiol carries on the determination and commitment of Giuliano Bortolomiol who not only founded the family business, but also was among the founders of the Prosecco Wine Fraternity in 1946. Dedicated to his memory, the Motus Vitae is dry with notes of apples and minerality, culminating in long length.

Val d’Oca, Uvaggio Storico, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Dry, Veneto, Italy, $24.00
A cooperative of 583 growers, Val d’Oca is the largest producer of Prosecco Superiore DOCG. The Uvaggio Storico, so named for its traditional blend of grape varieties – 85% Glera and 15% Verdiso, Perera and Bianchetta Trevigniana – mirrors the way Prosecco was made 20 years ago. With floral and pear aromas, the wine is off-dry with pear and floral flavors on the palate.

Villa Sandi, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG Vigna La Rivetta Brut, Veneto, Italy, $26.00
Produced from estate-grown grapes in the Cartizze area, Manuela Oregna, Villa Sandi’sExport Manager, explained that this wine was crafted in the Brut style to “underline the mineral aspect of the wine.”  The winner of Italy’s Tre Bicchieri (3 Glasses) award, the wine shows beautiful floral and mineral characteristics.

Vincenzo Toffoli, Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry, Veneto, Italy, $19.00
A family-owned winery established in 1964, the winery is presently run by Santo Toffoli, his daughter and other members of the Toffoli family. Produced from 95% Glera and 5% Verdiso, this wine has medium intense aromas of peach and floral which persist on the off-dry palate, with vibrant acidity and long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Think Yellow, Drink Yellow (January 2011)

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We hope you have enjoyed a wonderful holiday season and have started off 2011 with a bang…or perhaps a bottle or two. 

The New Year holds much promise and we look forward to continuing to lead winederful lives in the year ahead. In the near future, we will be traveling to New Zealand, visiting both the North and South Islands of this amazing country. Of course, wine will be among our chief pursuits with stops in the Hawkes Bay, Martinborough, Marlborough, and Central Otago wine regions. In March, Tracy will participate as a judge in the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition, while April finds her serving on a panel for Roanoke Winery’s Winemakers’ Smackdown blind tasting event. She is also confirmed to present at both the Society of Wine Educators and American Wine Society’s conferences in August and November, respectively. 

And, if learning more about wine is among your New Year’s resolutions, you might wish to plan ahead and sign up to take one of Tracy’s classes at New York University or the International Wine Center (Intermediate Certificate: Thursday evenings beginning March 31). 

Among our resolutions, we continue to hold fast to the mantra that “Life is too short to drink bad wine.” We hope you agree. In this regard, we turn your attention to a grape that will not likely be familiar, but one that has great potential to please your palate. And, so we introduce to you…Ribolla Gialla. 

Drink wisely and well, 

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer 

       and 

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer
 

Think Yellow, Drink Yellow

Marco Primosic's logo'd Porsche

 

Among grape varieties, Ribolla Gialla is not a household name, but perhaps it is time to change this oversight. Among the grapes grown in the vineyards of Collio (found in the Friuli-Venezia-Giulia region in northeast Italy), the name Ribolla predominates from the 13th century. Documents from the 16th century note that the Archdecon of Gorizia (located within Collio) sent the patriarch of Aquileia casks of Ribolla annually from 1584-1597. Moreover, classifications of Collio area wines praised the Ribolla wines from Oslavia and San Floriano, among others. But, eventually, Ribolla was supplanted by German and French varieties and was relegated to a wine for commoners. Today, Collio is spawning a Ribolla renaissance, with several prominent producers latching onto this grape variety and taking it to new heights. 

Ribolla Gialla, which takes its name from its golden yellow appearance (gialla means yellow in Italian) and distinguishes it from the lesser quality Ribolla Verde, is a grape that can provide diversity and versatility in the winery. It is inherently high in acidity, with delicate, floral aromas, but depending upon the production techniques employed, it is capable of complex flavors, good structure and long aging potential. Current wineries are producing both still and sparkling versions of Ribolla Gialla as well as wines with oak influence and the use of millennia-old maceration techniques. Traditionally done to naturally preserve the wine before the advent of technology, the modern use of skin contact pulls flavors, tannins and other phenolics from the thick-skinned grapes creating fuller-bodied, structured, age-worthy wines. 

Collio, nestled between the Adriatic Sea and the striking, Giulian Alps, is blessed with a moderate climate, significant diurnal shifts and good minerality in the soil. Within Collio, Oslavia, which sits on the border of Slovenia and, was previously part of the Hapsburg empire, is considered to be one of its Crus and it is here that most of the Ribolla’s rebirth is centered. Benchmark Ribolla Gialla producers include (but are certainly not limited to): La Castelleda, Fiegl, Gradisc’ciutta, Primosic and Radikon. 

 
TASTING NOTES

Ribolla Gialla in the glass

 

Gradis’ciutta Collio Ribolla Gialla 2007, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $17.00*
Run by father and son team, Isidoro and Robert Princic (one of five Princic families in the local wine industry), Gradis’ciutta shifted from selling wine wholesale began bottling its own wine in 1997. Pale lemon in color, this wine had pear, almond and floral aromas. On the palate, it was dry, with high acidity and flavors of almond, citrus and pronounced minerality and paired perfectly with a beautiful dish of clams. 

Fiegl Collio Ribolla Gialla 2007, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $18.00*
According to the Austrian land register (and indicative of the confluence of cultures in this area – Italian, Austrian, Yugoslavian), the Fiegl family has been in Oslavia since 1782, but only started bottling their own wines in 1992. With only a short (4 hours) period of skin contact and no oak, this wine was aged for two years, but shows a nice freshness. Medium+ gold in color, there is a slightly oxidative note on the nose, followed by apple, nuts and butterscotch. These continue on the dry palate, joined by minerality. 

Primosic Collio Ribolla Gialla Riserva 2007, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $12.00 (non-Riserva)*
Marko Primosic, son of founder Silvestro, presently serves as Chairman of the Associazione Produttori Ribolla di Oslavia and Vice-President of the Collio Consortio. Produced from late-harvested grapes, which were fermented in an open, wood barrel of Slovenian oak, this wine displayed a medium+ gold hue in the glass. Aromas and flavors of floral, mineral and almond persisted throughout its long length. 

Radikon Collio Ribolla Gialla 2000, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $45.00*
The vineyards and winery were initially set up in the late 1940s, but it was in 1995 when Stanislaeo Radikon decided to drastically shift his approach to winemaking, incorporating the use of extended maceration for his white wines, among others. Since it was not fined, this wine appeared slightly cloudy. On the nose, it has slightly oxidative notes with nuttiness, bruised apple and spice notes, all of which reappeared on the palate, along with high acidity, astringency and long length. 

La Castellada Collio Ribolla Gialla 20006, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $68.00*
Established by Giuseppe Bensa, and run today his sons Giorgio and Nicolo and grandsons Stefano and Matteo, La Castelleda focuses on prolonged skin contact and practices biodynamics. With 15 days of skin contact, this wine possesses high phenolics and was thus served in a Burgundy glass, more akin to a red wine. Deep gold in the glass, this wine provides aromas of sweet spice, butterscotch and apples. It is bone dry, with good acidity and structure and showing some astringency on the palate, with flavors of pith, rich apples, nuts and spices. 

*Prices provided are current retail prices for wines available in the U.S. market, which may not necessarily be the same vintage as above. 

Enjoying Ribolla Gialla overlooking Oslavia

 

Battle of the California Cabs

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What is the difference between one California Cabernet Sauvignon and another (besides the marketing hype)? Sometimes the best way to find out is to taste a number of wines side by side. Even better, if you can taste them blindly, you will be less influenced by what you think is in the glass and more by what your nose and palate actually tell you about the wine.

With this in mind, I decided to have some fun this past summer and open four different Cabernet Sauvignons I had received as samples. All of the wines were varietally labeled as Cabernet Sauvignons, so at a minimum they were 75% of the named grape. Moreover, they all hailed from the great state of California, but from different AVAs within it. To add to the pleasure, I invited our friends who were visiting for the weekend to join in. All were game, so we lined up four glasses each and poured a taste from each of the bagged and numbered bottles. I asked everyone to remain quiet while they tasted so that each person could develop his or her own opinion of each wine. However, once we had all tasted through everything at least once, comments and critiques were fairgame.

-The Crusher Wilson Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Clarksburg (CA), USA, $11.00
100% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Plum and blackberry aromas. Dry, medium acidity, full body, medium tannins, spice and berry flavors. Some oxidative notes on the nose and palate — possibly a faulted bottle.

-Emblem Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Rutherford (CA), USA, $50.00
100% Cabernet Sauvignon; Aged for 22 months in French oak barrels (66% of which was new).
Medium floral, blackcherry, mint and a hint of bacon on the nose. Fry, medium acidity, full body, medium+ tannins, black berry, spice.

-Emblem Oso Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Rutherford (CA), USA, $50.00
100% Cabernet Sauvignon; Aged for 22 months in French oak barrels (45% of which was new).
Notes of blackberry, blackcherry and euclyptus on the nose. Dry, medium acidity, full body, high tannins, blackcherry, blackberry and peppery flavors.

-Josh Cellars Amber Knolls Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Red Hills (CA), USA, $15.00
100% Cabernet Sauvignon; Barrel aged for 16 months in new American oak and 1-2 year French oak.
Dried floral, herbal notes. Dry, medium acidity, full body, medium+ tannins, blackberry, blackcherry and herbal flavors.

Before the wines were revealed, the consensus was that the Oso Emblem Cabernet Sauvignon wine was the favorite (known as Glass #3 at the time) edging out the other three wines.  The Oso Vineyard wine had longer-lasting appeal with the group, showing a less-fruit forward style and some complex spice notes on the palate, while the non-named vineyard Emblem wine was more fruit forward. The Josh Cellars wine was also well liked by the group, coming in second place.

However, after the wines (and their prices) were identified, the preferences changed somewhat. While the group continued to acknowledge how much it liked the Oso Vineyard Emblem wine, it didn’t feel that they liked it $35.00 more. Accordingly, the Josh Cellars wine seemed to win out in the end, at least in terms of its price to quality ratio.

It was an interesting experience to see that the quality of the higher priced wine was appreciated by the group  — both novices and more experienced tasters alike, but that the lower-priced Josh Cellars wine delivered sufficient quality to make the group happy.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Talking Turkey (November 2010)

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We don’t know about you, but we find it hard to believe that November has arrived with Thanksgiving just around the corner (wasn’t it just July?).

Fortunately, we had a wonderful October, which included a fabulous trip to Italy’s Campania region, with visits to Mastroberardino and Feudi di San Gregorio. We’ll share additional details in a future newsletter.

This month finds Tracy presenting two sessions (Italian Sparklers and South African Wines) at the American Wine Society’s annual conference, while Jared finished up our public North Fork schedule this weekend with our From Mystery to Mastery class. But don’t despair; you can contact us for private classes and events year round at your place or ours.

As you prepare for the holiday, we hope you have a lot to be thankful for and wish you a very Happy and healthy Thanksgiving!

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer 

       and 

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer 

 

Talking Turkey

While turkey (the poultry) may grace your table soon enough, you may not have thought about setting your table with wines from Turkey (the country). Yet, there are some wonderful wines being produced there that are worth checking out.

Kavaklidere was Turkey’s first privately-owned, wine producer when it was established in 1929 in Ankara. Today, Kavaklidere is Turkey’s largest producer and the only one to import its wines to the U.S. (at least for now). Despite its size, Kavaklidere is considered to be the best producer in Turkey. Some of this can be attributed to a decision that the company made in 1993, a watershed moment that winemaker, Ali Basman, points to when Kavaklidere “decided to increase the quality” of its wines through improved technology and viticulture. As a result, the company has made significant investments to plant new vineyards and build new winery facilities, planting 170 ha at their Côtes d’Avanos Vineyard in central Anatoila that year. In 2005, an additional 200 ha site was identified in Pendore due to its tufa and volcanic soil, good diurnal variation and 3,000′ plateau.

Since 2008, Kavaklidere has partnered with famed enologist Stéphane Derenoncourt to focus on creating quality wines with Turkish grape varieties. Current plantings include 550 ha, which consist of indigenous varieties along with international varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Carignan. The company also maintains three winery facilities located throughout the country. Kavaklidere produces two grape juices as well as 43 wines, which range from still to sparkling and fortified and dry to sweet, with 20% of its products exported to foreign markets. With such a diversity of wines (although admittedly not all are imported to the U.S.), you are sure to find one that you’d happily serve with this year’s turkey. 

Wine Tasting Notes


Egeo Rose 2009, Aegean/Denizli and Pendore, Turkey
A blend of Cal Karasi (60%), Syrah (25%) and Grenache (15%), this wine was macerated for a brief period, producing a bright, pink hue and aromas of strawberry and floral notes. It is dry on the palate with vibrant acidity, showing strawberry with an herbal undercurrent.Cote d’Avanos Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Cappodocia, Turkey
This wine has a pronounced nose of lemon, lemon pepper and minerality. On the palate, it is dry with medium+ acidity and notes of lemon, stone and slight yeastiness, the latter a result of the15 months the wine spent aging on the lees (spent yeast cells). 

Pendore Okuzgozu 2008, Elazig, Turkey
Produced from 100% of the indigenous Okozgoku, this wine spends 12 months in French oak barrels. It is floral with red fruits such as raspberry, with moderate tannins, medium body and an undercurrent of bitter chocolate. 

Prestige Kalecik Karasi 2005, Ankara, Turkey
With its herbaceous and vegetal aromas, medium+ acidity and notes of bright red fruit, this wine, produced from 100% Kalecki Karasi, seemed to be most similar to Pinot Noir, but its full body pointed to its true identity. 

Grand Cru Grapevine: Bubbles Born in the USA: American Sparklers (October 2010)

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We have had a busy, but productive, fall season thus far. Our wine salon, From Mystery to Mastery, conducted as part of the East End’s first HARVEST Wine Auction & Celebration was met with great success as was Tracy’s Sex, Wine & Chocolate event with certified sexuality educator, Amy Levine, held at the beautiful Coco de Mer erotica and lingerie store.

Tracy will be teaching at the International Wine Center later this month and at NYU for three classes in November. Her session on Italian Sparkling wines, to be presented at the American Wine Society’s (AWS) annual conference is sold out with 90 registrants and only a few seats remain for her session on South African Wines.

In honor of the AWS’ conference location in Cincinnati, OH – what we’ve dubbed, “the other Cin city” and birthplace of America’s first sparkling wine – we bring you the history of Nicholas Longworth this month.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer 

       and 

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer 

Bubbles Born in the USA: America Sparkles

America has long had a love affair with sparkling wine, yet, while many Americans would be quick to identify Dom Perignon as an iconic figure of the Champagne region, few would know that they owe a debt of sparkling gratitude to Nicholas Longworth who created the first American sparkling wine – a Sparkling Catawba, in 1842.

Born in Newark, New Jersey, in 1783, this “crazy Jerseyman” stood somewhere between 5′-1″ and 5′-3″ and arrived in Cincinnati in 1804 (one year after Ohio had attained statehood), at the age of 21. After studying law for six months (there were apparently a lot fewer laws back then), he established a law practice.
 

Concurrent with his legal work, Longworth made shrewd investments in land, beginning in 1820. These real estate investments permitted Longworth to indulge in a new passion for horticulture and viticulture, pursuing the latter as a hobby as he began to plant vines along the Ohio River. 

His first attempts were with vitis vinifera, which, having been planted prior to the discovery of phylloxera, not surprisingly died shortly thereafter. Longworth then tried his hand at the American species, vitis labrusca. Specifically, he became interested in the Catawba grape (native to North Carolina), which was hearty enough to withstand the harsh winters of Ohio, planting these vines in 1825. He produced his first wine three years later, declared himself satisfied and subsequently quit his law practice, eventually crafting a sparkling version of his beloved Catawba.

But fortunately, Nicholas wasn’t the only one who admired his slightly sweet, sparkling wines. His wine was enjoyed not only throughout the United States, but also abroad in England and France. It was further lauded by poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow who immortalized Longworth’s wine in his, “Ode to Catawba” published during the 1850s.

Longworth’s success eventually established him as the “wealthiest man in Ohio.” In fact, “…in 1850 his taxes rated higher than any other man in the United States except William B. Astor…” at an annual bill of $17,000 and, at his death, his wealth was estimated to be $15 million. (Harper’s Weekly)

In addition to being an accomplished wine producer, Longworth was a generous person and used his wealth to help others in his community. He provided work for those in need; built housing above his wine cellars for indigent laborers; and distributed bread to the hungry from his home every Monday morning.

Longworth’s efforts also helped to cement Ohio as a key winegrowing area in the United States. By 1860, Longworth had 3,000 acres of vines and was producing 570,000 gallons of wine, annually bottling 150,000 bottles. During this period, Ohio led the nation in the production of wine, supplying one-third of the nation’s wine and out-producing California by two to one. However, this boom was short-lived as Ohio wine production declined in both the wake of viticultural disease and a loss of labor as Ohioans left to fight in the Civil War.

Yet Ohio was not alone in its pursuit of bubbles. In 1855, Benjamin Davis Wilson, who was to become the first mayor of Los Angeles, was the first to produce a sparkling wine in California. And, across the country, a “champagne” industry was started in Hammondsport in New York’s Finger Lakes region in 1860. Crafting sparklers from Delaware, Iona, Elvira and Catawba grapes, the Pleasant Valley and Taylor Wine Companies set about to establish “American champagne [as] the leading wine of the region.” (Reichl, 14) 

While most of this early success with sparkling wine was brought to an end in the 1920s as America pursued Prohibition, by 1933, “[t]he few surviving Eastern wineries, principally sparkling-wine producers of New York State [namely Great Western and Gold Seal], soon found their bearings again.” (Wagner, 61)

And, only a few decades later, a renaissance would take place, with Jack and Jamie Davies re-establishing a winery at the old Schramsburg estate in Napa Valley, CA. With a focus on quality, not quantity, the Davies’ produced a Blanc de Blancs, which they released in 1967, becoming “America’s first commercially produced Chardonnay-based brut sparkling wine.” (Sawyer) Schramsburg’s reputation was assured when, in 1972, their sparkling wine was poured at the “Toast to Peace” dinner with President Nixon and Premier Chou En-lai in Bejing, China. Their wines have been poured in the White House ever since.

Today, sparkling wine is produced in all fifty states, and, while many of these producers are local in scope, leading American sparklers are found in California, Oregon, New York, Virginia, New Mexico, Pennsylvania, Delaware and Massachusetts, and are often national and even international in their reach. Here, many serious winemakers are crafting world-class wines utilizing the Traditional Method of production, with ultra-premium producers focused on estate-grown grapes and the production of vintage-dated wines.

Harper’s Weekly Journal of Civilization, Nicholas Longworth Obituary, published 3/7/1863.

Reichel, Ruth ed., History in a Glass: Sixty Years of Wine Writing from Gourmet. Random House: New York, 2006 [Frank Schoonmaker, Return to the Native, p. 14]

Sawyer, Christopher. “The Best of Both Worlds.” The tasting panel, December 2009.

Wagner, Philip M.  Grapes Into Wine, Knopf Press, 1976

  
  

Producer Profiles

Biltmore Estate
Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina is “the most visited winery in the United States,” seeing one million visitors annually. The 125,000 acre estate is the site of George Vanderbilt (grandson of Cornelius)’s dream home designed by noted architect Richard Morris Hunt. The Château Reserve Blanc de Blancs is 100% Chardonnay from fruit sourced throughout North Carolina and is aged 24-30 months before disgorging.

Chateau Frank
In 1962, Dr. Konstantin Frank established Vinifera Wine Cellars in Hammondsport, New York and earned a reputation for his Rieslings and “champagnes.” The 1999 Prestige Cuvee is made with 100% estate-grown fruit, a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier and then aged for more than five years. 

Gruet Winery
The Gruet family of Champagne, France established their Albuquerque, NM winery in 1984. The 2004 Blanc de Blancs remained en tirage for a minimum of four years with the last bottles reaching anywhere up to five years.

Iron Horse Vineyards
When Iron Horse’s founding partners, Audrey and Barry Sterling, first saw the 300 acre property in 1976, it was the most westerly vineyard in Sonoma, but the Sterlings knew they wanted to grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and that this was the perfect climate in which to do so. The 2005 Classic Vintage Brut is among the most traditional of their sparklers, made from 25% Chardonnay and 75% Pinot Noir and aged for three years. 

Kluge Estate
Kluge Estate was established in 1999 in Carter’s Mountain on the edge of Blue Ridge Mountains in Charlottesville, VA by Patricia Kluge whose dream was to build a wine region. The 2007 SP Rosé, made from 95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir, was aged for 21-24 months and won at the Monticello Cup in 2010 and took home Silver medals at both the San Diego Wine & Spirits National Women’s Wine Competitions.
 

L. Mawby
Larry Mawby planted vines on Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula in 1973, with his first harvest in 1978. His Talismon is made from estate grown fruit picked as a field blend of Vignoles, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay.

Soter Vineyards
Although he is more known for his Pinot Noirs, Tony Soter chose to make a sparkler because he is a “sucker for a winegrowing challenge.” Produced from 100% estate grown fruit, the Soter Rosé is a 50-50% blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and spent at least three years on the lees.
 


Troutman Vineyards
Building on Ohio’s wine legacy, Deanna and Andy Troutman established Troutman Vineyards in 1997. Their Cuveé D, a brut style sparkler made from hybrid variety, Vidal Blanc, won a Bronze Medal at the 2009 Ohio Wine Competition in the Hybrid Sparkling Wine category. 

Grand Cru Grapevine: All in the Family (September 2010)

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September 2010

Summer has not yet quite finished out its tenure, but the 2010 harvest is already in full swing. Having been spared from the potentially devastating Hurricane Earl, many of the white grapes have begun to be picked and brought into the winery, while the red grapes will remain to finish ripening for a few more weeks.

Right on cue, the East End’s first HARVEST Wine Auction & Celebration will take place on September 24-25, 2010. As a reminder, Grand Cru Classes will offer its “From Mystery to Mastery” class through the Wine Salon as part of this two-day event.

The HARVEST event and the actual harvest signal autumn’s impending return, which also finds children returning to school this month and answering the age old question of what they did on their summer vacations. With family stories in mind, this month we look at the Concannon Family and its history.

And, we encourage you to return to school this fall as well…wine school that is. Tracy will reprise her Sex, Wine & Chocolate event on October 5, 2010 with nationally recognized sex coach and certified sexuality educator, Amy Levine, at the amazing Coco de Mer erotica and lingerie store. Savor every sip, taste and touch more fully through this decadent tasting of wine paired with Bond Street chocolates, which integrates a unique look at the intersection of these three joys in life. Call the store at 212-966-9069 to reserve your spot.

For tamer, but equally wine savvy, classes, turn to Tracy’s classes, which will be offered NYU’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies. She is also teaching the WSET Intermediate Certificate at the International Wine Center on Mondays, starting October 18, 2010.

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

All in the Family

Two Generations of the Concannon Family

I first met the Concannon family in a grocery store in California. No, I didn’t have the pleasure of meeting a member of the family, that came later, but yes, you can actually buy wine at the same time that you stock up on those other staples in life – milk, bread, cereal and ice cream – at the supermarket in some states. Rather, a family vacation had brought by parents, sister and I to San Diego and we were browsing the wine aisle in search of an inexpensive wine to enjoy with dinner. I’m not sure what drew us to the Concannons, but we picked up the bottle, placed it in the cart along with a rotisserie chicken and sides and headed back to our studio room at the hotel. We were not disappointed.

This past summer, I actually had the opportunity to meet John Concannon, the fourth generation of Concannons to run his family business, for dinner at Brasserie Ruhlmann, with his wines poured throughout the meal. I was very impressed with John and the wines, both of which were (food)-friendly and approachable. Over the course of dinner, John shared his family’s history with me, further adding to my appreciation of Concannon.

In addition to having wine in their blood, the Concannon family is also proud of its Irish heritage, with founder James Concannon becoming the first Irish immigrant to establish a winery in the U.S. John owes his family’s legacy to Great Grandmother Ellen who devised to keep her husband closer to home. Born on St. Patrick’s Day, James initially moved to the U.S. and found work in the rubber stamp business, but his wife, Ellen, insisted he stay in the area and make wine for the church instead. Following his wife’s advice, James bought 47 acres of land in California’s Livermore Valley and planted vines in 1883.

Building on their lengthy history, in the 1950s, the family was the first to hire a female winemaker. And, in 1961, the Concannons celebrated both the arrival of John and the launch of America’s first varietally-labeled Petite Sirah. Today, Concannon is the oldest, continuing operating U.S. winery under the same family and heralds its 127th harvest this year. John’s niece, Shannon, is already eagerly asking her dad questions about the wine business, ready to take the helm of her family’s venture, although it is expected that she will at least complete grammar school before doing so.

While Concannon’s Reserve and Heritage wines are only available at the winery, two other tiers of Concannon wines are widely available:

  • Concannon Selected Vineyards – grapes sourced from California’s Central Coast; $10.00 and under
  • Concannon Limited Release – comparable to the winery’s Reserve wines; includes the Conservancy wines, which are sourced from Livermore Valley vineyards that have been preserved as agricultural land in perpetuity; $15.00

Tasting Notes

Concannon Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $10.00
Mildly aromatic with aromas of grapefruit and lime, this wine is dry, with restrained fruit flavors of grapefruit, lime, citrus pith and stone, anchored with vibrant acidity.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Chardonnay 2008, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Aged in French and American oak barrels, the nose is greeted with slight toast and nut notes, along with melon. The dry palate presents with medium+ acidity and flavors of melon, citrus, mineral and noticeable, but well-integrated oak. It paired beautifully with a blue crab salad.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Merlot 2007, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Sourced from a cool area, this Merlot is bright and fruity with aromas of plum, cherry and herbs. Medium acidity and medium tannins join the dry palate, which offers black cherry and leafy notes.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Produced from 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Syrah, this wine is dry, with medium acid, full body and medium, ripe tannins. Aromas and flavors of blueberry and spice are joined with a hint of dark cocoa.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Petite Sirah 2007, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Deep aromas of blackberry, smoke herald this dry wine, which has medium acidity, a full body, and notes of blackberry, smoke and oak wrapped around finely-grained tannins.