Category Archives: Wine Education

Grand Cru Grapevine: Portuguese Wines ~ A Fun Lesson in Diversity Awareness (October 2012)

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Long known for its high quality fortified wines – namely Port and Madeira – Portugal’s reputation for its non-fortified wines was less than stellar. Thanks to a renewed focus on quality, most notably in the wineries themselves, things are changing. The country now has an expanded repertoire of quality wines, which offer diverse styles at excellent values for today’s consumer.

Part of the secret to Portugal’s success is owed to its range of climates. Despite its small size, the country has three distinct zones, which influence the styles of wine that can be produced. Due to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, the coastal part of northern Portugal is lush and green with abundant rainfall. Here, temperatures are moderate and humidity is high. Continuing south along the coast, the climate becomes more Mediterranean, with warmer summers, mild winters, and less precipitation. Meanwhile, a series of mountain ranges in the interior blocks the moderating influence of the ocean and the climate becomes decidedly continental and arid. These inland valleys, especially those close to the Spanish border, feature blistering hot summers and very cold winters, with minimal precipitation.

Along with its diverse climate, Portugal has embraced a wide variety of grapes, choosing to rely on native varieties instead of the more internationally known Cabernet Sauvignon and the like. Instead, grapes such as Castelão and Fernão Pires, essentially found nowhere else, dominate the vineyards. Mostly planted in the south, Castelão can produce red wines with complex, herbaceous character, but can also be vinified in a more easy-drinking style. Fernão Pires, alternately called Maria Gomes, is a very aromatic white grape variety, made into dry and dessert, as well as sparkling, wines.

Red grapes take the lead, with two-thirds of all wine production being red. Aside from the aforementioned Castelão, Portuguese reds frequently feature one or more of the preferred Port varieties. Specifically, Touriga Nacional, capable of producing complex wines with firm structure and black fruit; Touriga Franca, with its floral, blackberry and plum notes; and Tinta Roriz, known elsewhere in as Tempranillo, with red fruit, olive and herbal characteristics. Another variety with significant acreage is the extremely tannic Baga grape, which is often aged in older barrels so as not to add additional tannins, yielding wines with robust wines with plum and tobacco notes, capable of aging for a long time.

White grapes are regionally prominent, especially in the cooler areas in the north and on the islands. In Vinho Verde, Loureiro and Alvarinho (synonymous with Loureira and Albariño in Spain’s Rías Baixas) are the stars. Alvarinho is distinctly tart and mineral in character with peach and citrus aromas and flavors, whereas Loureiro offers less acidity and more richness on the palate. Wines can be produced as single varietal wines or several grapes may be blended together. Compared to Rias Baixas wines, Alvarinho-led Vinho Verde is more petillant, mineral and tart.

Regardless of the varieties used, white (red and rosé versions also exist) Vinho Verde is generally low in alcohol, high in acidity with fresh citrus character. Also grown in the Vinho Verde area, as well as in Lisboa, Arinto is known for high acidity, with moderate alcohol and has to potential to age, especially if aged in oak.

With a wealth of wines from which to choose, Portuguese wines might be the perfect thing to help you break your Chardonnay habit. Because, not only is life too short to drink bad wine; it’s too short to get stuck in a rut.

Aveleda Alvarinho 2011, Vinho Verde, Portugal, $11.00
This is always one of my favorites when tasting a range of Vinho Verdes. While a bit pricier than some others, it delivers with floral, nectarine and citrus aromas and flavors. With its high acidity, dry palate and light body, this is a perfect aperitif wine.

Quinta da Romeira Arinto 2010, Bucelas, Portugal, $11.00
This wine hails from the Bucelas denomination, located close to Lisbon. It has notes of citrus, and yeast on the nose. Another relatively light-bodied wine, the palate has high acidity, along with green apples, grassiness and minerality.

Casa Ermelinda de Freitas Dona Ermelinda Reserva 2010, Palmela, Portugal, $13.00
A blend of Castelao (70%), Touriga Nacional (10%), Trincadeira (10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), this wine spent 12 months in French oak barrels. It offers red berries, perfume, oak and plum on the nose. Its palate provides vibrant acidity, dusty tannins, as well as minerality and an herbal character.

Herdade de la Malhadinha Nova Aragonês da Peceguina 2009, Alentejo, Portugal, $21.00
Unlike Rioja, which relies on Tempranillo, but usually includes at least one blending partner, this wine is 100% Tempranillo (simply masquerading under its Portuguese pseudonym). Showing ripe and jammy black berries, oak, medium tannins and some minerality, this wine seems more new world than old world, but still has nice balance.

Quinta de Vesuvio Pombal de Vesúvio 2008, Douro, Portugal, $27.00
At 803 acres, Quinta de Vesuvio is one of the largest estates within the Douro Valley. This blend of Touriga Franca (55%), Touriga Nacional (35%) and Tinta Amarela (10%) was aged in barrel for 9 months in French oak. It displays black and bramble fruit aromas along with smoky notes, both of which are repeated on the full-bodied palate, and joined by vibrant acidity.

It’s the Yeast We Can Do (Grand Cru Grapevine: July 2012)

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The tiny, single-celled fungi (I’ll spare you the bad joke) known as yeast are responsible for creating wine; without them, it would merely be grape juice. Simply put, the yeast consumes glucose and fructose in grapes, converting the sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The resulting product is much more complex and interesting than if the yeast had not intervened (thanks yeast!). These organisms exist throughout nature and are found on the skins of grapes (not a bad place to hang out if you’re looking for a free lunch), among other places.

Brought together in this manner, the initial discovery of fermented beverages was most likely an accident, but yeast are one of the oldest domesticated organisms (although admittedly not as cute as dogs) with humankind having used it for thousands of years. More recently, the commercial production of yeast has a 100 year old history with today’s winemakers having the luxury of ordering any number of cultured yeast strains from a catalog to achieve their desired effect. In fact, a chart on Winemaker magazine’s website suggests which yeast products are best for which styles of wine.

Yet, despite these modern conveniences, many winemakers are going native. In Canada’s Niagara-on-the-Lake region, Hillebrand Winery gifted us with yellow t-shirts emblazoned in green with the slogan “Take a Walk on the Wild Side” on the front and hailing their Wild Ferment Showcase Chardonnay 2009 and Showcase Sauvignon Blanc 2010 wines on the back. Stateside, the Hamptons-based Channing Daughters has produced its L’Enfant Sauvage Chardonnay, made entirely with native yeast, since 2001, while Janet Myers of Napa’s Franciscan Estate makes the similarly produced Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay.

Why the emphasis on these minute details? Does it make a difference or is all about the hype? Not only is Myers adamant that it matters, but she continues to make various batches of Chardonnay using both cultured and non-cultured yeast each year, which are then blind-tasted to determine which one is the best. And, every year, she finds that the wine produced with natural yeast wins out. For Shane C. Welch, President and Founder of Sixpoint Craft Ales, the use of natural vs. cultured yeast is the difference between a live performance and a studio album.

But, using wild yeast may not always be the best course of action. Myers admits that in some cases, especially with red wines, the result is less pronounced while further explaining that she finds it produces a different (unwanted) style with Sauvignon Blanc. Accordingly, the extra time and attention necessary to use wild yeast fermentation is limited to her Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay; all other Franciscan wines are made with cultured yeast. Myers is also quick to point out that she has the benefit of having a microbiologist on staff that can observe, smell and analyze what’s going on and make adjustments as needed. Tracy’s tales of producing L’Enfant Sauvage sound dicier, with some ferments taking almost a full year to complete.

Whether brought on by ambient populations of yeast or those of the cultured variety, the finished products of fermentation – wine, beer, bread – are made all the better for their actions. Accordingly, we have much for which to thank the yeast. If the yeast could talk, they might be heard to respond, “It’s the yeast we can do.”

Channing Daughters L’Enfant Sauvage, The Hamptons, NY, $35.00
Although we have not tasted the recent release of this wine (2009), we hosted a wine dinner featuring the L’Enfant Sauvage from vintages 2001 through 2008. While the older wines did display some oxidative characteristics, this added richness and complexity and confirmed the ageability of these wines. Citrus and apple were the most common aroma and flavor descriptors in my various notes, accompanied by some slight oak and spice, along with good acidity.

Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Dry 2010, Hungary, $15.00
While likely more famous for its sweet and luscious botrytized wines, Tokaji (pronounced to-keye) winemakers also make dry whites. This one is a blend of 85% Furmint, 10% Harslevelu and 5% Muscat, 20% of which has been aged in oak barrels for six months. Notes of apple and canned peaches greet the nose and persist on the medium-bodied palate.

Franciscan Estate Cuvée Sauvage 2009, Carneros, Napa Valley, CA, $40.00
The result of using wild yeast for this wine is worth the effort, with its complexity of aromas of yeast, apple, and wet stone. On the palate, it has vibrant acidity, full body, flavors of yeast, toothpick, apple, and lemon, culminating in long length. Crisp and complex.

Lucien Albrecht Blanc de Blancs Crémant d’Alsace Brut NV, Alsace, France, $20.00
Traditional method sparklers such as France’s Champagne and crémants owe their charm to not just one, but two fermentations, along with lengthy contact between the wine and the dead yeast (aka autolysis). As a blanc de blancs (white from whites), this wine is a blend of 80% Pinot Auxerrois, 10% Pinot Blanc and 10% Chardonnay and shows aromas of yeast and toast, joined by apple peel and ripe citrus on the fresh and elegant palate.

Masi Agricola Bonacosta Valpolicella Classico 2010, Veneto, Italy, $14.00
If you’re craving red wine despite the heat, this light-bodied, low tannin blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara from the foot of the hillside vineyards in the Classico zone just might do the trick. Bursting with vibrant, fresh cherries, it can be enjoyed with a slight chill and paired nicely with oven-roasted Portabella mushrooms and eggplant.

50 Shades of Rosé

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The heat is on (some might call it sultry), but there’s no need to get all hot and bothered. Although there’s no prohibition against drinking rosé during the winter months (admittedly ordering rosé in the middle of a snow storm may raise some eyebrows), summer is certainly a perfect time for turning to rose-colored glasses.

Not quite white and definitely not crimson, these wines are somewhere in between, but offer a wide range of styles. With a grape’s color pigments contained in its skin and not in the pulp, rosé wines are produced primarily from red grapes, but with much more limited contact between the skins and grape juice (think tie-dyeing). Longer macerations and more deeply pigmented grapes will result in wines with deeper, more intense shades of pink (and frequently more body and flavor intensity), while shorter skin contact and paler grape varieties create lighter-bodied rosés with just a blush of color.

Purse your lips and get ready to enjoy these wonderfully refreshing wines, broadly available at your neighborhood wine shop this time of year. Astor Wines has not just one, but two special sections of rosés in the store – a more general selection of rosés and another limited to those priced at $10.00 and under. A few of their wines are listed as organic. Aside from the usual suspects, an unusually shaped, box wine hailing from southwest France is offered in a “Vinity Case de Buzet.” This Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, priced at $25.00, is the equivalent of four bottles of wine, but is easily transported to the party.

Uptown, Sherry-Lehmann kicks off summer with Rosé Fridays. Starting June 22, 2012 and running for the next eleven weeks, the store will pour a selection of rosés from 3:00-5:00 pm each Friday afternoon (505 Park Avenue @ 59th Street, New York, NY 10022).

If you can’t unleash your inner goddess at least you can unleash your inner wine lover. In any shade, these wines are definitely delicious!

Searching High and Low for Bordeaux (Grand Cru Grapevine: April 2012)

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At a recent Wine Media Guild lunch featuring Château d’Issan and Château Rauzan-Segla, it was stated that, “as Bordeaux goes, so does the whole industry,” with the further comment that, it was a “lynchpin by which other regions measure themselves.” And, with the iconic nature of these two Margaux producers, it is not surprising that the wines showed quite well that afternoon. Several months earlier, four Pauillac châteaux – Château Lynch Bages, Château Pontet-Canet, Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Clerc-Milon – gave equal pleasure to the assembled journalists.

However, with the price of the classified growths reaching astronomical figures, many wine drinkers feel priced out of the Bordeaux market. Yes, it’s true, wines from pedigreed châteaux have become the object of collectors who may never drink a drop rather than the cherished claret they once were. Such wines are the result of high scores and top reputations, which have made them more prized for their investment value than for their hedonistic value. But, thankfully, the majority of Bordeaux is still very much for drinking.

As an extremely large French wine region, representing 26% of all AOC (quality) wine produced in the country, Bordeaux is home to 63 appellations. Yet, Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC together comprise 55% of the total production. And, despite the volume this entails, Bordeaux has thousands of small, family-run estates such as Château Penin run by Patrick Carteyon, the fifth generation of his family to work in wine. Similarly, at Château de Bonhoste, winemaking is the domain of Yannick Fournier, while his sister, Sylvaine, and mother, Colette, tend to the vineyard.

Although these two appellations stem from grapes grown on both sides of the Garonne River, on its own, the Right Bank has been the scene of recent change. A new appellation – Côtes de Bordeaux – was established in 2009, providing these wines with more market recognition. For example, wines previously labeled as Blaye or Côtes de Francs were not instantly recognizable. Now, the name Bordeaux is featured prominently on their labels.

While not as prestigious as the wines from the various classifications, wines from these three appellations offer great value, with most under $20.00 and many in the $10.00-13.00 range. And, at these prices, you can take a chance on a bottle or two to try before splashing out on a whole case.

Château La Rivalerie, Côtes de Bordeaux Blanc 2009, Bordeaux, France, $N/A
(60% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sauvignon Gris and 20% Semillon)
This wine offers aromas of oak, bruised apple, citrus and ginger on the nose. With bright acidity and medium body, the flavors echo the nose and linger throughout the long finish.

Château La Goutere, Bordeaux Rouge 2009, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
(77% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc)
Hailing from vineyards located near Saint Emilion, this wine showed aromas of blackcherry, vanilla and a hint of oak on the nose. Its palate also offered notes of earth and herbs along with medium tannins.

Château Penin, Grande Selection Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2008, Bordeaux, France, $13.00
(100% Merlot)
Blackberry, plum and some herbal character were present on the nose. Showing a supple texture, the wine had good acidity, with flavors of blackberry, plum, dried herbs and slight oak notes.

Château Peynaud, Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2009, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
(50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc)
Aromas of spice, oak, vanilla and black cherry greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is very fruity, with similar notes.

Château Saincrit, Vieilles Vignes Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2008, Bordeaux, France, $18.00
(70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvigon and Cabernet Franc)
This château is owned by Florence Prudhomme who took over the property in 2003. Showing aromas of plum, raisin and spice on the nose, the palate gives way to blackcherry and oak.

Et tu, Brunello? (Grand Cru Grapevine: March 2012)

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The Ides of March is upon us, so all Caesars are cautioned to beware. And, while you may not be able to trust Brutus, you can feel confident about the most recent releases from Brunello di Montalcino, with three stellar vintages all now available in the market: 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Reserva, 2007 Brunello di Montalcino and 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.

Although Brunello di Montalcino doesn’t quite date as far back as Julius Caesar’s time, the origin of this Tuscan wine traces its heritage to a mention in an historical document dated 715. Production centers near the hilltop (monte) town of Montalcino, which takes its name from the oak trees (leccio) found growing there. The town’s vertical advantage placed it in a strategic position since its inhabitants could clearly see who was traveling on the main road between Florence and Rome during the Middle Ages. Consequently, the city maintained its independence as a municipality for centuries before the Medici’s took possession in 1559.

The history of Brunello itself stems from 1869 when Clemente Santi defined the wine. Santi won an award for his 100% Sangiovese wine that, aged for a long period of time, was unusual for his integration of advanced racking and barrel-ageing techniques that had not been used previously. Several decades later, his grandson Ferruccio Biondi Santi built upon Clemente’s initial work, establishing strict production standards and, unlike his peers, focusing exclusively on a wine meant to be aged. Biondi Santi’s labors also isolated a particular clone of Sangiovese, known locally as Brunello, and in 1932, an Interministerial Commission described him as the inventor of Brunello.

Steeped in Medieval history, Montalcino offers visitors the chance to step back in time – thick stone walls, an imposing fortress and cobblestone streets transport you from 2012 to 1512. Yet, despite the ancient ambience, Montalcino embraces its decidedly commercial culture. Walking down the town’s narrow streets, one encounters wine shop, after wine shop, after wine shop, almost to the exclusion of all else. As a colleague remarked during a recent visit, at no time did we come across a hardware store or a place to buy non-touristic garments. Got wine? No problem. Got underwear? That’s another story.

Initially established as a DOC in 1966, Brunello was among the first denominations to be promoted to DOCG status, Italy’s highest quality wine level, in 1980. By then, it had achieved worldwide recognition as an ageworthy wine. Today, the denomination is home to 250 producers and, while the delimited area itself comprises 60,000 acres, only about 5,200 acres are planted to Brunello vineyards. Another 1,275 acres is given over to Brunello’s baby brother – Rosso di Montalcino. Whereas Brunello must be aged for a total of 5 years (or 6 years for Riserva) with at least two years in oak, the Rosso wines may be released immediately.

The square-shaped region is home to four rivers and valleys and is situated midway between the center of Italy and the sea. Moreover, the area is slightly further south than Chianti Classico and Montepulciano. Accordingly, the Mediterranean climate provides a warmer and drier climate than these other two regions, impacting the ripeness and tannin development of the grapes. With richer cherry fruit and less vegetal notes than Chianti Classico (and less earthy ones than Vino Nobile di Montepulciano), these tannic wines need time to truly develop as evidenced by the beauty found in both the 1995 Col d’Orcia and 1994 Villa Poggio Salvi described below. Hailed as a five-star vintage, the 2007s will have similar staying power and should be laid down in the cellar and perhaps forgotten about until the Ides of March circa 2024.

Camigliano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $40.00
With aromas of cherry, slight earth and hint of oak, this dry wine is light and elegant with bright acidity, medium tannins and cherry dominating the palate. 

Capanna 2007, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $41.00
Aged for four years, this wine is classic with rich and concentrated aromas of cherry, anise and wood, culminating in long length. 

Fanti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $45.00
A combination of black cherry and sour cherry, the aromas are repeated on the palate, with firm tannins and nice length.

Il Poggione 2007, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $69.00
This wine is beautifully rich with cherries and balsam notes on both the nose and palate. The concentrated flavors linger throughout the wine’s long length.

Col d’Orcia Riserva Poggio Al Vento 1995, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $85.00
This wine saw four years in oak and two years in bottle before being released. Now, 17 years after its initial production, it is showing development on both the nose and palate and offered dried fruit, herbs and cherries.

Villa Poggio Salvi 1994 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $NA
Almost Barolo-like in its black fruit character, this wine also offers dried herbs and fig notes. However, its body was lighter than the Col d’Orcia 1995.

Bonjour with a side of French wine and cheese

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If you are planning a trip to France (or another European destination), you might want to pick up a bit of language skills before you head off into the Parisian sunset. Enter Manisha Snoyer, educator and proprietor of Into this City. This unique company not only offers foreign language classes, but also provides acting classes in both English and French.

Among the French classes scheduled is Act French for Travelers, which is further described as a basic French language class with cheese tasting. My husband and I attended this class on a Friday evening earlier this month and were pleasantly surprised. In addition to learning key terms and phrases concerning introductions, ordering food and inquiring about where someone is from, Snoyer offers participants with the opportunity to sample four different French wines, each paired with a different cheese.

Moreover, drawing on her acting experience, Snoyer teaches language skills utilizing a variety of activities and games. There is very little occasion to sit still in this class. Instead, students are called upon to identify pantomimes to reinforce the names of months, adding a physical or tactile learning approach to the already verbal one, further enhancing knowledge acquisition. Afterward, while standing in a circle, a ball is tossed from person to person, with each one calling out the French number in sequence. Next, the assembled group is divided into smaller groups and menus are distributed. Returning a few minutes later in the guise of a server, Snoyer takes each member’s food order. And, toward the end, classmates must circulate throughout the room, asking an assigned question and providing a prize (stickers) for correct responses en Français, of course.

Breaks between these exercises are punctuated with the wine and cheese, while French music plays in the background and the structure, aromas and flavors of the wine are discussed. Admittedly, Snoyer is not a wine educator, but she does a nice job with this aspect of the class as well.

The students themselves were a diverse mix of people — different nationalities, different ages and different professions — adding to the atmosphere and congeniality of the evening. All in all, it was a lot of fun, and, we even improved our French. Bien sûr!

Make Mine Spumante (Grand Cru Grapevine: December 2011)

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While France and Champagne are frequently the standard bearers for sparkling wines, Italy is not to be outdone in this regard. In fact, Italian sparklers run the gamut from light and lively quaffers to complex, yeast-aged wines and everything in between. Although many Italian appellations include the provision, “May be spumante (sparkling),” in their regulations, the best examples are usually those that come from the designated fizz regions such as Trento, Franciacorta, Moscato d’Asti, Asti, Prosecco and Brachetto d’Acquis. With this broad selection of sparkling wines, one is sure to find the perfect Italian sparkler with which to toast the holiday season and beyond.

Rivaling the yeasty, toasty character of Champagne, Italy’s Trento and Franciacorta appellations offer similar aromas and flavors in these Traditional Method wines. During the dawn of the 20th century, Giulio Ferrari was intrigued with the quality of France’s sparkling wines and went to study in Montpelier to learn how to make them. He returned to his hometown in Trentino and set about creating his wine. In 1952, he sold the company to the Lunelli family which has continued to maintain the high standards set by Ferrari. Produced identically to Champagne, these wines rely almost exclusively on Chardonnay, with the occasional use of Pinot Noir. Today, other producers in the area also ascribe to these standards, which were codified in 1993 with the creation of the Metodo Classico Trento DOC, the first Italian appellation for a sparkling wine. These wines must undergo a secondary fermentation in the bottle, with a minimum of 15 months aging on the lees.

Italy’s Lombardy region is home to Franciacorta, which is also produced using the same, time-consuming Traditional Method of sparkling wine production as that used in Champagne. However, beyond its reliance on Champagne’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, Franciacorta also includes Pinot Gris and Pinot Bianco in its recipe, if the producer so desires. In 1995, Franciacorta was established as a DOCG (Italy’s highest appellation level), with regulations requiring a minimum of two years aging before release, of which 18 months must include contact with the lees. Franciacorta’s vintage wines are those which have been aged for 37 months be in contact with the yeast, while rosés must contain at least 15% Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir). The specially labeled Franciacorta Satèn must be produced solely from white grapes, specifically Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, and at a reduced pressure of 4.5 bars instead of 6.

For a more aromatic and less expensive option, look to Prosecco to fill your glass. In general, Proseccos are vibrant and fruity, exhibiting the aromatic characteristics of the Glera grape. Produced via the Italian (aka Charmat) method of sparkling wine production, the floral and fruit aromas and flavors are retained, rather than masked through the use of stainless steel and minimal contact with yeast/lees (unlike the Traditional method). Meant to be drunk young, the wines are increasingly being vintage-dated (most were previously non-vintaged) to provide the consumer with more information. In 2009, the appellation was promoted to DOCG status, with production limited to the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene.

Toward the end of the meal, turn to Piedmont for sweet-style sparklers. Here, the Moscato (Muscat) grape is known for producing aromatic wines that are available in lightly sparkling (frizzante) and fully sparkling (spumante) versions. The sweet and grapey Moscato d’Asti DOCG and Asti DOCG both have low alcohol, light body and fragrant floral notes, making them the perfect accompaniment to fruit-based desserts. Although both are produced from the same grape variety and in the same region, the former wine has a higher sugar content, lower alcohol level and fewer atmospheres of pressure, which accounts for the use of a regular wine bottle. In comparison, the Asti is fully sparkling at an average 7% abv, with a gentle froth on the palate. For chocolate desserts, try Brachetto d’Acquis. Made with the red Brachetto grape, this Piemontese sparkling wine offers up raspberry and strawberry aromas and flavors, coupled with soft sweetness on the palate.

Ca’ del Bosco, Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige NV, Lombardy, Italy, $50.00
Considered to be one of the top producers in Franciacorta, Ca’ del Bosco was established in 1968 by Maurizio Zanella. A blend of 75% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Nero and 10% Pinot Bianco, this full-bodied wine has been bottle aged for a minimum of 28 months with rich, toasty notes on the nose and palate. A slight nuttiness lingers in the long finish.

Ferrari, Giulio Ferrari Riserva 2001 Trentino, Italy, $100.00
Produced from a single vineyard of 15 year old vines, this special cuvée is named for founder Giulio Ferrari with wines aged for a minimum of 10 years on the lees. These beautifully rich wines are capable of great aging as evidenced by the complexity revealed in a tasting of the 1986, 1995, 1997, 2000 and 2001 vintages. The company also makes its vintage-dated Perlé in a blanc de blancs (100% Chardonnay) and a rosé (80% Pinot Nero and 20% Chardonnay), in addition to their non-vintage brut ($25.00) and rosé ($37.00) wines.

Peri, Talento Brut Millesimato Metodo Classico 2007, Lombardy, Italy, $30.00
Although this 100% Chardonnay sparkler is produced near the Franciacorta appellation, it is done so under the broader geographical appellation of Montenetto di Brescia. Produced using the Traditional Method, the wine showed some yeasty notes along with citrus and apple on the palate.

Bel Canto di Bellussi, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Extra Dry, Veneto, Italy, $13.00
Purchased by the Martellozzo family in 1993, Belllusi is presently run by Enrico, the third generation in his family to work in the wine business. With a fine perlage, this wine displays red apple and floral notes on both the nose and palate. Off-dry and light, it is quite elegant.

Ricossa, Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy, $15.00
The Ricossa Antica Casa winery dates to the 1800s when it was founded by Lorenzo Ricossa. This wine has pronounced aromas of floral, peach and honey on the nose. Its sweet palate offers fresh peaches, grapes and honey before finishing cleanly.

Campania in a Glass

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The scent of freshly fermenting grapes pervaded the air. We had arrived in Avellino early on a Saturday morning and were warmly welcomed by Eliana at Mastroberardino. Harvest had just begun and things were in full swing at the winery.

Eliana showed us through the cellars where we admired large botti maturing the next generation of Taurasi. These oak vessels are much larger than the typical barrel (225 l) and impart less wood influence on the finished wine due to the limited surface area compared to the voume of wine.

Almost more art gallery than aging room, the ceilings of the cellars are adorned with beautiful frescos commissioned by Mastroberardino to depict wine-related scenes such as the marriage of Bacchus. After this tour, we watched a brief video on the winery and its history, and then Eliana brought us to the wine cellar. Again, artistic elements decorated the room, which housed old bottles of Mastroberardino wines, including bottles from 1928.

We paused to admire current bottles for sale in the winery’s retail shop before heading to Mastroberardino’s resort, Mirabella, about 30 minutes away.

Following Eliana’s Fiat in our own car, we drove through small towns and took in the view of vineyards we passed along the way. Here, we noted interesting trellising techniques with the vines trained very high.

As we pulled into Mirabella, we saw the lovely facade of the main building, but continued to drive a bit further onto the property so that we could view the vineyards, golf course — a tournament was underway during our visit, and pool house.

Reluctantly, we willed ourselves away from the staggering beauty of the hillside vines, and headed in to lunch in the main dining room. We were treated to a multi-course meal, paired with the exquisite Mastroberardino wines. Each delicious course was joined with at least one wine, all of which complemented the food. Finally, we enjoyed a few last bites of dessert and then espresso before saying our goodbyes and thank yous to Eliana.

Our next stop was Feudi di San Gregorio, which is situated in the opposite direction, near Irpina. Upon our arrival at Feudi, we were greeted by Emanuela who served as our guide for the remainder of the day.

The on-again, off-again rain let up just enough to permit us to wander through the hanging gardens before we walked over to the crush pad. A new load of grapes had just arrived and the lugs were being lifted off the truck, setting things in motion.

The tour of Feudi’s cellars included views of their pupitres (riddling racks), botti, barrels and a special creche. We were briefly permitted to enter the actual winery, but the winemaker quickly shooed us out for fear that we might be overcome by the carbon dioxide seeping from the fermentation tanks.

Emanuela then brought us to a modern part of the winery, which housed its retail/wine bar area and a place for us to sit and taste their wines. We started with their sparkling wines, which were really lovely. Unfortunately, these wines are not exported to the U.S., so you’re restricted to enjoying them in Italy (although there are worse places to be restricted to be). The tasting continued with Feudi’s still wines.

Overall, the tastings provided strong evidence as to why these two wineries are so highly regarded. Standouts at Mastroberadino included the Falanghina, showing mineral, herbal and citrus notes on both the nose and palate, and the Radici Taurasi Riserva 2004, which displayed perfume, oak, vanilla, smoke, berries and other dark fruit flavors. My favorites at Feudi were its full-bodied Cutizzi Greco di Tufo with stone, spice and apple aromas and the Piano di Montevergine Taurasi Riserva 2002 with floral, black fruit, licorice and long length.

 

An Honorable Mention for Mencia

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Autoctona del Bierzo, an organization established to represent several wineries from the Bierzo DO wine region made its first official visit to the U.S. in early May. Located in northwest Spain, the region is made up of a group of small valleys coupled with wider, flatter areas known as low Bierzo. Situated within the province of León, this region is relatively small and is comprised of many producers each with a relatively limited amount of land. Here, the mild climate has some humidity, but the low altitude prevents problems with frosts.

The region’s flagship grape is Mencia (also known as Negress), a red variety that adapts well to the local climate. Although the variety dates to Roman times, its current cultivation is limited to the Iberian Peninsula. It accounts for 65% of plantings in Bierzo, supplemented by Garnacha Tintorera and the experimental Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Typically, Mencia is used to produce both reds and roses. Its thin skins and soft flesh result in wines with light tannins and a velvety palate, with cherry and strawberry as the predominant fruit notes. Many producers make their wines from 100% Mencia. However, with differences in vine age, varied use of oak and aging periods, each winery has a full portfolio often ranging from unwooded styles and young (those labeled as Joven) to aged Crianza and Reserva wines. The May tasting provided an opportunity to taste this grape in several iterations and I was particularly impressed with Bodegas Estefania’s line-up.

The region itself is also home to indigenous white varieties including Palomino and Godello, the latter of which offers wines with good body and apple aromas. Dona Blanca, a mildly aromatic grape, makes up only 10% of all plantings and is on the decline.

The opportunity to meet these producers and taste through their wines was eye-opening and I am sure we will see more of Bierzo in the years to come.

WHITE WINES

Bodega Luzdivina Amigo, Baloiro Blanco 2010, Bierzo, Spain,16.00
This blend of 60% Palomino and 40% Dona Blanca was produced from 60-70 year old vines. Sharp cheese and sherry-like aromas greeted the nose. On the palate, the wine was rich and concentrated with yeast, citrus and a slight oxidized note, which gave the wine some depth.

Bodega Luzdivina Amigo, Baloiro Godella 2009, Bierzo, Spain, $34.00
With only 600 bottles produced, this wine is quite limited. It was aged for 8 months in French oak, with the wood showing on both the nose and palate in addition to fresh herbs, tarragon and citrus.

Palacio de Canedo Prada a Tope Blanco 2009, Bierzo, Spain, $N/A
Produced from 100% Godello, this wine displayed youth aromas of flowers and herbs, which persisted on the full-bodied palate with the addition of lime.

RED WINES

Bodegas Estefania Tilenus 2010, Bierzo, Spain, $15.00
This unwooded wine is comprised of 100% Mencia. It is very youthful with bright, fresh berry and cherry notes.

Bodegas Estefania Tilenus Envejecido 2007, Bierzo, Spain, $20.00
Produced from old Mencia vines ranging from 30-50 years old, half of this wine was aged in tank with the remainder in wood (a combination of both French and American barrels) for 8-12 months. Slightly less bright on the palate than the young wine, it still showed lively acidity, with strawberry, cherry and licorice.

Bodegas Estefania Tilenus Crianza 2005, Bierzo, Spain, $30.00
Low yielding Mencia vines averaging 60-80 years old were sourced for this wine. The barrel aging regimen wasn’t specified, but as a Crianza, it would have been longer than the Envejecido. This wine was more herbal on the nose likely due to its age, with more noticeable oak on the palate.

Bodegas Estefania Tilenus Pagos de Posada 2003, Bierzo, Spain, $50.00
This limited production wine comes from a single vineyard with Mencia vines at or older than 80 years old. Yields are exceedingly low (1 kg/ha). Oak and leafy notes took precedence over the faded strawberry aromas, but the palate was still lively with leaf, oak, strawberry, raspberry, tobacco, culminating in long length.

Bodegas Estefania Tilenus Pieros 2002, Bierzo, Spain, $120.00
This wine hails from a small, rare plot of land, planted exclusively to Mencia. There was an absence of fruit on the nose, instead, developing aromas of tobacco leaf, dried herbs and pencil lead dominated. The wine showed light minerality on palate, with concentrated strawberry and leafy flavors. Overall, the wine was complex, and balanced, with extremely long length.

Chianti Colli Senesi: Siena’s Hill

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There is Chianti; there is Chianti Classico (the area restricted to the historic or heartland of the region); and then there are Chianti’s seven subzones – Montalbano, Colli Fiorentini, Rufina, Colli Aretini, Colline Pisane, Montespertoli and Colli Senesi.  A slice of the more general Chianti appellation, Chianti Colli Senesi has its own DOCG and adheres to stricter regulations that require lower yields (8,000 vs. 9,000). Within Colli Senesi there are three main areas, making up an 80 km stretch of land, located in the hills above the town of Siena.

Although Colli Senesi is the largest Chianti sub-appellation, compared to Chianti and Chianti Classico which produce 80 million and 23-28 million bottles annually, respectively, Colli Senesi is responsible for only 8 million bottles and is home to 500 producers. Since the subzone’s territory is also part of the larger Chianti area, producers within the delimited area can choose whether they will produce Chianti or Chianti Colli Senesi at the time of harvest.

The region has a long history of winemaking dating to the Etruscans who settled in Siena 2,500 years ago and began making wine. In 1716, Duke Cosimo I established the area, with the local wines further defined in 1841, when Ricasoli created the Chianti recipe. The original formula included, and in fact, required, a blend of both white and red grapes. While the white varieties are no longer part of the Chianti Classico regulations, they are still permitted in Colli Senesi and, if included, are used to mellow the tannins and set the color. Regardless of the producer’s choice of grapes, the wine must be comprised of at least 75% Sangiovese. Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia and Trebbiano, along with up to 10% Merlot and/or Cabernet Sauvignon, may supplement the blend, depending upon the winemaker’s philosophy.

While there is no specific taste profile to these wines that set them apart from other Chianti wines, the head of the Chianti Colli Senesi Consortio was adamant about stressing the reduced yields as a point of differentiation, higher quality, and clearly, pride. Accordingly, at least in theory, these wines should be of a higher quality than basic Chianti.

As elsewhere, each vintage brings its own set of challenges and harvest 2011 did not disappoint in that regard. Typically, the Chianti Colli Senesi area experiences a decrease in heat on or around August 15, but, this year, Mother Nature had other plans. Instead of cooler temperatures, the remainder of August and into September was quite hot.

Consequently, grapes raisined on the vine in the intensity providing good conditions for vin santo, but requiring a quick response to harvest grapes for the dry whites.  It also meant that everything was in full swing when we visited in the last week of September.

Our arrival in the midst of harvest activities gave us the opportunity to catch mechanical harvesters, sorting tables and crusher/destemmers in action. We watched as grapes were loaded into the machines which quickly spit out stems, getting the grapes ready for the next stage in the process toward becoming wine. The heavenly scent of fermenting grapes followed us everywhere, but kept us out of a few cellars for safety.

Moreover, we were invited to participate in a traditional dinner, which celebrates the harvest and brings all of the field workers together, at Fattoria Campopalazzi. The working farm property at Fattoria Campopalazzi is presided over by Anna Maria Di Rienzo, a PhD-trained scientist, who has harnessed her scientific knowledge and put it to work at the winery.  Anna Maria and her husband graciously received our group on our third evening, providing us with a brief tour of the winery and the rooms she rents out as a bed and breakfast.

We were then led to an arbored patio where we toasted the harvest with her employees and feasted on bread, salami, cheeses, olives and other assorted fare. Little did we know that this was only the aperitif. Moving to a room upstairs in the farm house, we somehow found room to consume a full dinner and taste through several wines.

At dinner, we were joined by Anna Maria’s consulting winemaker from Fattoria Montepescini, which we had visited earlier in the day. This winery is located in the village of Montepescini, which is home to less than 30 inhabitants.

Another stop took us to Castel di Pugna, named for a nearby battle in which Siena triumphed over the Florentines back in the 1200s. Today, the property is owned by Count Carlo Alberto Fumi Cambi Gado and his son, Luigi Alberto. The castle itself dates to 1259 and their historic cellar is carved out underground from the tufa soil. Production for their four wines is limited to 14ha of estate grown fruit, all of which is hand-harvested. We were provided with a beautiful luncheon at which we tasted their basic Chianti Colli Senesi, the Riserva and a Supertuscan called Castelpugna.

At Campriano, we were greeted by owner, Ranuccio Neri, who explained that his newer plantings focus on higher densities and lower yields. Ranuccio’s chef, Roberta, gave us a lesson on the art of making gnocchi, while he gave us a primer on recent vintages, noting that 2007 was a hot year, while 2006 and 2008 were more moderate, with 2006 being better than 2008.

Our host further acknowledged that 2001 had been a particularly good year, providing excellent growing conditions. Not surprisingly, he produced a Riserva wine that year, which was showing beautifully that afternoon. To qualify as Riserva, the wine must possess a full degree higher of alcohol (11.5% vs. 12.5% abv for Riserva) and be aged in a combination of wood and bottle for a minimum of one year.

Ranuccio invited us for lunch at his property, at which we enjoyed the fruits (or, perhaps, more correctly the pasta) of our labor and tasted through several different vintages of Campriano wine. We concluded the meal with a chocolate tart and a glass of Ranuccio’s vin santo, which was, hands-down, the group’s favorite vin santo of the entire trip. It was truly a perfect ending to the meal.

 TASTING NOTES

Montepescini, Chianti Colli Senesi 2010, Tuscany, Italy
Tasted from a barrel sample, this wine displayed black cherry and floral notes on both the nose and palate. The firm tannins need some time to soften.

Bindi Sergardi, Chianti Colli Senesi 2009, Tuscany, Italy
This wine has aromas of floral, dried herbs and cherry. The richly layered palate offered vibrant acidity, ripe cherry and dried herb flavors and beautiful balance.

Campopalazzi, Chianti Colli Senesi 2008, Tuscany, Italy
This wine showed Sangiovese’s savory character with notes of tomato leaf as well as black cherry. On the palate, it had bright acidity, with cherry, tomato and dried herb flavors, along with dusty tannins.

Montalpruno, Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2007, Tuscany, Italy
Notes of sweet, red fruit and candy greeted the nose. On the palate, this wine showed vibrant acidity, with firm tannins (it needs some time) along with strawberry and cherry jam and an undercurrent of tropical fruit.

Castel di Pugna Ellera, Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2005, Tuscany, Italy
A blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo Nero, this wine was aged for 24 months in oak barrels, with an additional six months of bottle aging before release. Herbal and red fruits dominated the nose and palate.

Campriano, Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2001, Tuscany, Italy
Despite its age, the wine’s color showed only a slight shift toward garnet. Vegetal and cherry notes greeted the nose and were joined by spice and herbs on the lively palate, culminating in long length.

Campriano, Vin Santo 2006, Tuscany, Italy
With its pronounced aromas of coffee, nuts, honey and caramel that persisted on the palate, this medium sweet wine had balanced acidity and long length.