Island Wines: Long Island Edition

Posted on September 7, 2015 by Tracy

There is something special about visiting an island. The discrete borders, the intimate setting and the separation from the mainland all conspire to conjure images of a serene paradise. It’s why “Island Getaway” makes a much better headline than “Landlocked Getwaway”!

This summer, I had the pleasure of visiting several different islands, either in body (Long Island) or in spirit (Sicilia and Santorini), open to their charms through the lovely wines that are produced on each.

Close to home (aka New York City), Long Island provides a welcome refuge for city dwellers, with its beaches, farms and vineyards. We returned to the region after a two-year, accidental hiatus, stopping at some of our favorites for a brief refresher and to stock up our cellar, which we were about to deplete as a consequence of hosting our Meet, Meat & Merlot dinner, featuring a selection of aged Long Island Merlots.

The four-course dinner, held at our apartment, was an excellent opportunity to see how Long Island Merlot can develop with time. All of the wines, from the youngest at 12 years old (2003) to the oldest at 23 (1992), proved the point in spades. Between the chaos of cooking an elaborate menu and hosting 11 guests, I admittedly did not take notes on the wines, but the menu and wine selection are listed below.

Tasting notes for the various wines we tasted during our two-day visit to both the North Fork and The Hamptons AVAs are also included below.

Meet, Meat & Merlot Dinner Menu & Wines
Amuse Bouche: Frico Cheese Crisps with Hungarian Paprika

Wild Caught Salmon Sliders with Sage on Crispy Potato “Buns”
Shinn Estate Vineyards Estate Merlot 2003, North Fork of Long Island, USA
Shinn Estate Vineyards Six Barrels Reserve Merlot 2002, North Fork of Long Island, USA

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Coq au Vin 8 Hands Farm Organic Chicken Breast with Cipollini Onions & Mushrooms Lenz Estate Selection Merlot 2001, North Fork of Long Island, USA
Lenz Estate Selection Merlot 2000, North Fork of Long Island, USA

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Beef Wellington Organic Beef Tenderloin with Mushroom Duxelles and Foie Gras in Puff Pastry served with North Fork Squash and Sugar Snap Peas
Macari Vineyards, Bergen Road 1997, North Fork of Long Island, USA
Rivendell, Merlot 1990, North Fork of Long Island, USA
Rivendell, Merlot 1992, North Fork of Long Island, USA

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Dessert
Briermere Farms Raspberry & Peach Pie and
Briermere Farms Gooseberries and Wickham’s Farm Cherries

MACARI VINEYARDS
Macari Sauvignon Blanc 2014, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $23.00
This wine is fresh and bright, with crisp citrus, a hint of green apple and long length.

Macari Dos Aguas Blanc 2013, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $27.00
A blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. The intense nose displays aromas of lush pear and tropical fruit, both of which persist on the palate.

Macari Sauvignon Blanc No. 1 2013, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $27.00 Macari has been actively experimenting with the use of concrete eggs and 60% of this wine was fermented in one. Compared to the regular Sauvignon Blanc, it was much rounder with lots of orange peel aromas and flavors.

Macari Cabernet Franc Lightforce 2013, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $N/A
This wine was also fermented and aged in a concrete vessel. It was fresher and lighter than regular Cabernet Franc, but still very Cab Franc in its characteristics, with beautiful earth and mushroom notes.

Macari Merlot Reserve 2010, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $36.00
From the near perfect 2010 vintage, this wine is absolutely gorgeous with rich notes of coffee and black cherry, culminating in long length.

LENZ ESTATE
Lenz Estate Blanc de Noir Rosé 2013, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $22.00
A light and pleasing rosé with fresh strawberry and slight herbal notes on the nose and palate.

Lenz Estate Old Vine Gewürztraminer 2010, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $30.00
More floral than spice, this dry Gewurztraminer is quite elegant with nice acidity.

Lenz Estate Malbec 2011, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $35.00
With intense and concentrated aromas of smoke, mulberry and blue fruit, this wine is more restrained on the palate, with elegant flavors of spice and blue fruit.

Lenz Estate Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $NA
This wine was showing some development with complex aromas and aromas of red fruit, black fruit and some meatiness. On the dry palate, it displayed ripe and concentrated flavors of blackberry, coffee and slight cedar; lovely.

McCALL WINES
McCall Pinot Noir 2012, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $28.00
This wine offers fresh, bright fruit with notes of cherries, herbs and earth.

McCall Pinot Noir Hillside 2013, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $39.00
This Pinot Noir is more complex and intense than the entry-level wine, with more meaty and spice notes.

McCall Merlot Reserve 2010, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $30.00
This pretty and elegant wine displays rich black cherry aromas that pervade the palate as well.

McCall Ben’s Blend 2010, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $54.00
Bringing together, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this Bordeaux-style blend provides velvety tannins and nice complexity with gorgeous black fruit aromas and flavors.

CHANNING DAUGHTERS
Channing Daughters Tocai Mudd Vineyard 2012 North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, 24.00
A combination of minerality and salinity greet the nose, while the palate is rewarded with apple and mineral notes and long length.

Channing Daughters Rosato di Refosco 2014, The Hamptons (NY), USA, $20.00 This rosé is distinctly herbal with sour cherry and a hint of salinity that lingers throughout the finish.

Channing Daughters Envelope 2011, The Hamptons (NY), USA, $42.00
Produced from 62% Chardonnay, 28% Gewurztraminer and 10% Malvasia Bianca, which were co-fermented with ambient yeast on the skins, this wine offers up pronounced aromas of floral and spice. This wine is rich, with concentrated fruit flavors of floral and pear on the palate.

Channing Daughters Ribolla Gialla 2013, The Hamptons (NY), USA, $35.00
This wine displays rich aromas of honey and marzipan. Its palate is dry with flavors of honey and white flowers.

Channing Daughters Sculpture Garden 2011, The Hamptons (NY), USA, $30.00
A blend of Merlot, Teroldego and Blaufrankisch, this wine spent 22 months in oak and 18 months in bottle before release. It has soft tannins, with notes of cherries, cocoa, and spice, which persist through the long finish.

NB: While I don’t have precise tasting notes, we absolutely adored Channing’s range of VerVino Vermouths.

WÖLFFER ESTATE
Wölffer Estate Noblesse Oblige Extra Brut Sparkling Rosé 2011, The Hamptons (NY), USA, $54.00
This elegant sparkling wine was very yeasty on the nose, with flavors of berries and cream on the palate.

Wölffer Estate Rosé 2014, Long Island (NY), USA, $18.00
Considered among the official rosés of the Hamptons, this fresh, Provencal-style rose is the perfect wine for summer with its purity of melon and berry fruit and refreshing acidity.

Wölffer Estate Summer in a Bottle 2014, Long Island (NY), USA, $24.00
This white blend offered up ripe, lush fruit with flavors of floral, peach and pear.

Grapes of Roth Dry Riesling 2014, Long Island (NY), USA, $26.00
Produced by Wölffer’s winemaker and partner Roman Roth, this is classic Riesling with citrus, slight pith, mineral, just a hint of off-dry sweetness on the attack.

Wölffer Estate Descencia Botrytis Chardonnay 2012, Long Island (NY), USA, $40.00
A late-harvest Chardonnay dessert wine with medium-sweetness, this wine is beautifully balanced by its bright acidity along with notes of honey, spice and Asian pear, culminating in long length.

Drink Wisely and Well – A Fresh Look at France issue

Posted on September 4, 2015 by Tracy

A Re-introduction to Roussillon

Posted on August 28, 2015 by Tracy

I first visited Roussillon in 2001, but it wasn’t until I started studying wine in 2005 that I truly became acquainted with the wines of this region. Several recent tastings re-introduced these wines to me, reminding me that their diversity, quality and appealing price points make them worthy of renewed interest.

Admittedly, a large portion of production is handled by large co-operatives, but co-op is no longer a four letter word around here. In fact, today, many of the cooperatives function more like custom-crush facilities than the typical co-op of yesteryear. Plus, many small family wineries also exist, such as the Nadal family of Château Nadal Hainaut, whom I met at the Wines of Roussillon’s Roussillon Day in New York.

I also had the pleasure of meeting husband and wife team, Dominque and Claude Ortal, at the same walk-around tasting and took an instant liking to the friendly couple who have guided Clos Saint Georges and its related brands (Château de Canterrane, Collections Emotion d’Oc and others) since 1970. Their property is scattered among seven towns within the Aspres area of Languedoc-Roussillon. I also took an instant liking to their wines.

Another immediate “crush” at the tasting was Jean Boucabeille, winemaker for Domaine Boucabeille, a 28-hectare estate, situated due east of Perpignan. Unfortunately, at the time of the tasting, my new “boyfriend” didn’t have U.S. representation, but I really enjoyed his wines and hope he made a successful match in finding someone to bring them in soon.

While I didn’t get the chance to meet all of the producers whose wines I tasted, I was generally impressed with the region’s refreshing rosés; its eager embrace of indigenous varieties; and its rich and decadent dessert wines. There were also some very interesting dry whites and reds, which were a welcome change. I also had the opportunity to taste a number of these wines with a colleague who works for an importer heavy with this region.

If you are not already familiar with these wines, I urge you to become acquainted. Your palate will thank me!

WHITE WINES
Emotion d’Oc, Cuvée de Paul-Muscat Sec 2012, IGP d’Oc, France, $NA
Made from Muscat grapes usually reserved for the production of fortified whites, this wine offered up exotic fruit aromas yet was dry, with ripe fruit character on the palate. Very pleasing.

Terrassous, Muscat Sec 2014, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France, $14.00
Another dry Muscat, this wine was nice with more limited fruit expression and an interesting waxy texture on the palate.

Domaine Treloar, One Block Muscat 2013, IGP Pays d’Oc, France, $10.00
Rounding out the discussion of dry Muscats, this selection was richly layered with lots of depth and a similar waxy texture.

La Noble Chardonnay 2013, IGP Pays d’Oc, France, $12.00
This brand works with small producers and local co-ops to source fruit from Limoux. The wine is an unoaked version of the ubiquitous grape, which I was hesitant to try, but was duly rewarded with fresh citrus and melon fruit aromas and flavors, medium+ acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Le Cirque Grenache Gris 2012, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France, $18.00
This 100% Grenache Gris is produced solely in stainless steel by a modern cooperative, Les Vignerons de Tautavel Vingrau, which serves more as a custom crush facility than as an old-fashioned co-op. Nicely textural with waxy notes and aromas of pear and melon, the wine is dry on the palate with ripe pear, slight apple and melon, medium acid and medium body.

Chateau de Lancyre, Roussanne 2012, IGP Monferrand, France, $22.00
This wine was one of my favorite discoveries. The Durand and Valentin families purchased the estate in 1970, taking on a 16th century chateau situated on the ruins of a 12th century fortress, with winemaking records that date to 1550. Today, they own 135 acres of vineyards planted to local varieties close to the Pic St. Loup area. The wine is made with 90% Roussanne spiked with some Viognier and Marsanne and displays aromas of flowers and marzipan, which persist on the dry, medium- to full-bodied palate. Just beginning to show some development, this wine can age well, becoming more complex and weighty with time.

Domaine Boucabeille, Terrasses 2014, Cotes du Roussillon, France, €NA
A blend of Grenache Blanc and Macabeo, this wine was fresh, fruity and complex on both the nose and palate, culminating in long length.

Domaine Boucabeille, Les Orris Blanc 2013 Cotes du Roussillon, France, €27.00
Bringing together 60% Grenache Blanc and 40% Rousanne, this wine was distinctly floral and mineral, with some spice and pear notes lingering in the finish.

Mas de Lavail, Terre d’Ardoise Old Vine Carignan Blanc 2014, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France, $14.00
A unique wine given its white color and production from a deeply pigmented red variety. Fresh and clean with white flowers, this is a very food friendly wine.

Domaine Cazes Le Canon du Marechal Blanc 2014, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France, $11.00
Not surprising given the 60% Muscat-40% Viognier blend, this wine is extremely aromatic with floral and exotic fruit aromas. Its dry palate, medium+ body, offered up depth and complexity with floral, melon and mineral flavors and long length.

Domaine Vacquer, Esquisse 2014, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France, $14.00
This blend of 40% Roussane, 40% Macabeo and 20% Grenache Blanc was fresh and clean with melon, pear and spice notes.
ROSÉ WINES
Le Pot du Clos, Rosé 2014, IGP Pays d’Oc, France, $NA
This was very fresh with good acidity, medium body and flavors of melon and berry fruit; really lovely.

Domaine Cazes, Le Canon Rosé 2014, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France, $11.00
Produced from a blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre, this rosé was more Provençal in style than the others I tasted, with slight berry fruit on the nose and palate.

Domaine Vacquer, L’Ephémère Rosé 2014, Cotes du Roussillon, France, $14.00
Produced from a blend of 1/3 each: Carignan, Grenache Noir and Syrah, this wine was subdued, but elegant, with mineral, melon and long length.

Penya, Rosé 2014, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France $11.00
Cooperative Penya is located in the French Catalan area, just north of Spain. The 96% Grenache Noir and 4% Syrah blend, produced from vines with an average age of 25-35 years displays aromas of under-ripe strawberry and slight herbs on the nose. It is dry, but with a hint of sweetness on the attack, with crisp acidity and a clean finish.

RED WINES
Penya, Rouge 2013, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France $10.00
An unoaked blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 15% Carignan and 5% Mourvèdre, this wine offers up intense berry aromas on the nose with herbs; dry rich, concentrated berries, dried herbs, good acidy, really nice.

Domaine Vaquer, Cuvée Bernard 2012, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France $20.00
Another one of my top picks! The Vaquer family has owned the property for more than 100 years. Bernard Vaquer, for whom this wine is named, passed away in 2001; the 25-hectare, high altitude property is currently managed by his wife, Frederique, who was born and raised in Burgundy. Bringing together 33% each of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, aromas of red fruit and herbs greet the nose. On the palate, it is quite elegant, with medium+ body; medium tannins; cherry, berry and herbal flavors; and long length.

Domaine Cabirau Serge & Nicolas 2012, Maury Sec, France $22.00
From one of the newer Roussillon appellations, this wine is a blend of 60% Grenache, 28C% Syrah and 12% Carignan. The 13.5-acre property was purchased by Hand Picked Selections President, Dan Kraitz, with this wine named for the vineyard manager – Serge Soulatge – and winemaker – Nicolas Burger – who are responsible for assisting Dan in crafting this wine. The wine was aged for 5 months in large oak vats yielding intense and concentrated fruit, with notes of smoke and herbs. It is dry with a sweet attack of red fruit, with medium acidity, medium+ body and lovely freshness that pervades the palate.

Domaine de l’Edre, L’Edre 2011, Cotes du Roussillon Villages, France $30.00
A blend of 46% Syrah, 26% Grenache, 19% Carignan and 9% Mourvèdre, this wine is produced at the extremely low yield of only 1.27 tons/acre from a sustainably grown vineyard in Vingrau, jointly farmed by friends Jacques Castany and Pascal Dienunidou. This wine is produced in two versions – unoaked and oaked. Aromas of berries and pomegranate dominate the nose and palate, it is very polished and focused. The dry palate offers medium+ acidity with bramble fruit and juicy berries and ripe, rich tannins.

Domaine de l’Edre, L’Edre 2010, Cotes du Roussillon Villages, France $30.00
A nearly identical production to the wine above, but this time aged in oak (12 months in 2nd use French oak barrels), this wine displays a slight aroma of oak on nose, joined by blackberry and leather. The full-bodied palate shows well-integrated oak, rich black fruit and long length; really beautiful.

FORTIFIED WINES
Clos Saint Georges Muscat de Rivesaltes Cuvée Eva 2014, Rivesaltes, France, $15.00
Offering lovely, floral aromas, this wine is nicely balanced, with slight licorice and anise notes in the finish.

Domaine Treloar Muscat de Rivesaltes 2013, Rivesaltes, France, $14.00
This wine is so beautifully balanced that its sweetness is almost imperceptible at first. Mineral and anise notes linger in the long length.

Domaine Boucabeille Rivesaltes Ambré Hors d’Age, Rivesaltes, France, €27.00
A vin doux rancio wine, it is showing some initial development, with lots of spice on the nose and palate.

Domaine Cazes Rivesaltes Ambré 1997, Rivesaltes, France $30.00
Produced from Grenache Blanc, this wine spent considerable time in cask before being bottled in 2013. It is complex and rich with dried fruit and spice and would pair beautifully with pumpkin pie.

Terrassous Rivesaltes Ambré 1992, Rivesaltes, France, $50.00
This wine was almost Cognac-like in its aromas and flavors, displaying complex and developing notes on both the nose and palate.

Terrassous Rivesaltes Ambré 1981, Rivesaltes, France, $66.00
Spicy, stunning and simply amazing; my favorite of the three Terrassous Rivesaltes Ambré selections listed here.

Terrassous Rivesaltes Ambré 1974, Rivesaltes, France, $83.00
Intense aromas and flavors; quite lovely, with lots of life still remaining.

Buena Vista Winery unveils new Wine Tool Museum

Posted on March 15, 2015 by Tracy

Sharp edges glisten in the spotlight, looking more like an executioner’s axe than something wielded by an enologist. But, these blades actually belong to a collection of pomace cutters, used for removing grape skins from the press.

Indeed, getting from grape to glass takes a series of labor-intensive, time-consuming tasks. Just as diverse and varied are the specialized tools used in each step along the way. From planting vines and harvesting grapes to crafting oak barrels, each instrument has a distinct purpose, propelling the process forward.

Though technology has evolved with time, these implements still hold interest and fascination as well as provide a glimpse back into the past. A unique look at these historic devices will be made public at the equally historic Buena Vista Winery in Somona, CA when it unveils its Wine Tool Museum on March 24, 2015.

Established in 1857 by Agoston Haraszthy, Buena Vista Winery is among the oldest wineries in the U.S. Haraszthy was a true pioneer in the wine industry, leading the way for the use of European varieties and (then) modern methods in the vineyard and winery. After much exploration throughout California (including a stint as San Diego’s first elected sheriff), he was among the first to recognize the potential of Carneros (the southern sub-AVA that spans both Napa and Sonoma), where he chose to locate his Buena Vista Vinicultural Society.

Unfortunately, Haraszthy’s legacy languished first under Prohibition and then under a revolving door of ownership. However, in 2011, the estate was purchased by Jean-Charles Boisset, whose Boisset Collection of wineries also spans Napa and Sonoma as well as Europe.

Boisset was intent on restoring glory to the storied winery and has since invested heavily in the infrastructure. Most notably, the original land-marked cellar building received a full renovation, including a state-of-the-art reinforcement of its walls to protect against earthquakes. While certainly not planned, the seismic retrofit passed its August 2014 test with flying colors; the building didn’t sustain any damage at all!

With the interior renovations now completed, the ground floor serves as home to Jean Charles’ Bubble Lounge, a place to enjoy a range of sparkling wines produced by Buena Vista and several other Boisset properties.

Display cases line the walls of the stairwell and show off a beautiful collection of decanters, setting the stage for the exhibit to come. Upon arrival on the third floor, visitors will be greeted by a 20 minute video presentation guiding them through exhibit and introducing them to the tools, their respective functions and the history of Buena Vista.

The unique opportunity to visually experience the tools of the trade will provide tasters with a deeper understanding of how wine is made and perhaps a greater appreciation for those who toil to make it.

The Art of Storytelling

Posted on September 15, 2014 by Tracy

Once upon a time (aka earlier this month), I traveled to Seattle, which was initially founded with a settlement called New York-Alki, located across Elliott Bay from the present-day city. Established back in 1851, the settlement’s name meant “New York-in a little while,” supposedly for the site’s resemblance to Manhattan island, but also perhaps some wishful thinking on the part of the settlers?

While the early families were lured by land grants given to them by the U.S. government to protect the U.S. from Canada, I was drawn by the opportunity to catch up with friends and colleagues who were in town for the Society of Wine Educators’ annual conference. Although admittedly, my only official conference attendance was at a reception at the Chihuly Garden and Glass exhibit at Seattle Center.

For the remainder of my visit, I played the role of tourist making sure to hit all of the top spots – the Space Needle, Pike Market and the Underground Tour. This latter attraction proved to be among the highlights of my trip despite its lack of a connection to wine.*

Created by Bill Speidel in 1965 as part of his efforts to save the historic neighborhood of Pioneer Square, the tour takes tourists on an adventure one story below Seattle’s streets, Strewn with ancient artifacts (frescoes, building facades and an original Crapper toilet) and more modern detritus (movie props left behinds from the 1970s), the journey is truly a walk back through time.

But, the environment itself would fall flat if it wasn’t for the guides who regale participants with well-rehearsed stories, punctuated by well-timed humor. Suddenly, the cast of characters are brought to life and history is exciting instead of boring.

For example, early resident (and madam) Lou Graham was among those responsible for an intriguing discovery during one of the city’s first censuses. The study revealed that loggers, who accounted for the vast majority of workers in Seattle at the time, made any average of $20/month. Meanwhile, members of the seamstress circle were bringing home $400/month; not bad for a town with limited need for bespoke garments and haberdashery. The astute city council saw their opportunity and levied a $10/week tax for all 2,700 seamstresses on their non-existent sewing machines.

The 1.5 hours flew by rather quickly, bringing the tour to an end, but my interest in Seattle history was piqued and the stories remained fresh in my mind even a week later.

Stories engage us, fascinate us and challenge us much more than simple facts and figures. Yet, when we talk about wine, how frequently do we find ourselves speaking about varietal percentages, acidity levels and types of oak trees.

Instead, isn’t it more interesting to know that Chateau de Villambis in Bordeaux operates its vineyard under a Help Center for Work permitting them to offer work to people with disabilities or that Mas Blanch I Jove in Catalonia supports the arts by commissioning a new sculpture for its vineyard each year?

Just something to consider the next time you teach wine or any other subject for that matter.

*If you take the more adult-themed tour at night (when it is renamed the Underworld Tour), the ticket price includes one cocktail.

Rose Revolution: Better Dead than Red

Posted on April 7, 2014 by Tracy

World winemakers unite! Admittedly I have Communism and Leon Trotsky on the brain thanks to having just finished Barbara Kingsolver’s novel, The Lacuna. However, the notion that winemakers are globally uniting to produce rosé wines is not that far-fetched, at least not in terms of the depth and breadth of these wines now being produced.

While drinking pink wine (at least publically) was previously relegated to newbies quaffing White Zinfandel and other sweet blush wines, today’s rosés run the gamut in hue and are primarily dry in style. With a decade of growth in the U.S. market, rosé continues to be one of the U.S.’s fastest growing wine categories in retail sales; the message is clear: Rosé is here to stay. Tweet that!

A recent “Pink Party” hosted by Winebow showcased the importer’s vast portfolio of rosés, which not only ranged in style (from still to sparkling and pale salmons to deep pinks), but also in origin of production.

As the number one producer of rosé worldwide, it is not surprising that the line-up was heavy in French samples, with appellations that specialize in the pink stuff such as Provence and Tavel well represented. Italian specimens were similarly prevalent, most of which hailed from the southern portion of the boot: Sicily, Sardinia, Campania and Calabria.

But, Winebow’s rosé collection is much more widespread than the wine world’s two top producers. In addition to a reasonable showing of wines from the U.S.’ east and west coasts, more unique appearances came from Croatia, Greece, Lebanon and the Republic of Macedonia.

Adding to the diversity, the sparklers were not only comprised of the usual suspects such as Rosé Champagne and a beautiful rose Cava, but also on hand were lovely bubbles from Austria and Tasmania.

And, vying for most unusual wine of the day was a “100% pure rosé sake” produced from heirloom purple rice.

With such a plethora of rosé wines in the market, it can be quite confusing to the consumer to make sense of it all. But, the easiest way to understand rosé is to think about something with which most people are familiar – tie-dyeing. Tweet this!

Such childhood arts-and-crafts projects provide a simple, but effective tool, for learning about rosé production. Armed with white t-shirts, rubber bands and RIT dye, we saw that leaving the t-shirt in the dye bath for just a few minutes resulted in a pale hue, while soaking it for the full hour delivered the deepest color. Moreover, the instructions advised that higher temperatures and agitation further added to the color saturation.

Apply these same principles to winemaking, substituting grape skins for RIT dye and grape juice/must for t-shirts (no rubber bands required) and, by George, you’ve got it. Now you are ready to join the revolution!

Looking for some rosés to sip this summer (yes, I promise it will be summer one of these days)? Here are some of my favorites from the Pink Party tasting:

SPARKLING WINES
Jansz Sparkling Rose NV, Tasmania, Australia
A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier with just a hint of color. Citrus, mineral and peach notes.

Juvé y Camps Rosé Brut Pinot Noir NV, Cava, Spain
100% Pinot Noir and medium-deep pink in color. Floral and fruit on the nose with red fruit and herbs on the palate.

Lanson Brut Rosé Champagne NV, Champagne, France
A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Rich and intense with typical yeasty character along with citrus and a hint of red fruit.

STILL WINES
Adelsheim Rosé 2013, Willamette Valley (OR), USA, $25.00
100% Pinot Noir. Herbs with some depth and slight grip on the palate. Fresh strawberries and melon.

Chateau Mercouri Lampadias Rosé 2013, Ilia, Greece
A 50-50 blend of Avgoustiatis and Agiorgitiko. Simply lovely with good fruit and acidity.

Les Vignobles Gueissard Côtes de Provence Rosé “Les Papilles” 2013, Provence, France
Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Rolle. Berries and cherries with body and good length.

Zenato Bardolino Chiaretto 2013, Veneto, Italy
Corvina, Rondinella and Merlot. Very fruity with strawberry, raspberry and dried herb aromas and flavors.

It’s Complicated… but does it have to be?

Posted on March 13, 2014 by Tracy

Each year, dozens of high school and college teams gather together to compete in building complex machinery to complete simple tasks. This national competition, held in celebration of cartoonist Rube Goldberg, encourages the creation of far-fetched contraptions to accomplish straight-forward tasks such as hammering a nail or turning a page.

See the Rube Goldberg website for this and other images.

These machines take a circuitous route to getting things done, instead of simply moving from Point A to Point B, there are quite a few stops along the way.

In the context of the Rube Goldberg Machine Contest, such round-about, comical approaches can be a lot of fun, but why do we seem to take a similar tack when explaining simple concepts about wine to our students?

As a refreshing antidote to encyclopedic tomes, Tom Stevenson has written “a [wine] book for people who don’t want to read about wine.” Stevenson’s newest book, Buy the Right Wine Every Time, The No-Fuss, No-Vintage Wine Guide, offers a simple, straightforward approach and focuses on wines that are generally inexpensive, widely available and consistent from year to year.

This is a distinct departure for Stevenson, who is well known for writing the (encyclopedia tome and) go-to-guide, World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparking Wine. Presumably much more at home drinking the likes of Bollinger and Taittenger, for this project, Stevenson found himself tasting Barefoot and Turning Leaf and seems to be impressed with these and several other big brands.

The first part of the book emphasizes wine by style, while in the latter section (referred to as the “A-Z of wines”), individual wines are listed alphabetically (naturally) with a few key elements included:

What is it?
What does it taste like?
If you like this, then try with confidence…

The very first entry in this section is the Adami Prosecco Bosco del Gica, which Stevenson rates as Recommended. (His other ratings are To Die For and Highly Recommended). As a consumer-oriented wine book, I would say it is Highly Recommended.

Interestingly, or at least of interest to me as a wine educator, while the label clearly indicates that the wine is Prosecco Superiore DOCG (and not just Prosecco DOC), Stevenson makes absolutely no mention of this fact in his text.

And, in the wine style section, none of the wines listed include the appellation or even country of origin. Truly a case of less is more.

Truthfully, having worked with the Prosecco Superiore consortium, I feel a duty to explain and clarify the differences between the two, but in all honestly, does the average consumer really care as long as the wine tastes good (to them) and fits within their budget? As much as I hate to admit it, the answer is no.

Yet, I do not advocate for a full abdication of complex principles; merely, for the use of clear explanations when they are necessary and appropriate. In this regard, detailed dissertations on appellation laws might be best left for trade training, but significant concepts that link wine and place should be explored, keeping context and audience in mind when guiding such conversations.

Similarly, at a recent seminar on “Why Terroir Matters,” author and educator Marnie Old questioned whether we should be using the term terroir with consumers, noting that discussions of “dirt” tend to turn people off.

In response, Bordeaux merchant and estate owner, Edouard Moueix suggested that, “[Terroir] is a term that was invented to describe something that can’t be easily defined,” but was adamant that terroir is indeed vital to the dialogue on wine. Instead, he proposed that we need to do a better job illuminating this term for consumers to help them understand how terroir distinguishes one wine from another in its identity as well as to clarify that it does not, in fact, mean “dirt.”

Admittedly, a tall order, but as a wine educator I am up for the challenge. What do you think?

Wine Educators Tool Belt Seminar Handout

Posted on February 12, 2014 by Tracy

For those of you who participated in my French Wine Society webinar on the Wine Educators’ Tool Belt, here is a list of resources and bibliography.

Kamens Wine Educators Toolbelt Handout

Goldilocks and the Crus Bourgeois

Posted on February 5, 2014 by Tracy

Once upon a time, there was a little girl named Goldilocks who went for a walk in the forest. After walking for awhile, she came upon a house. She knocked and, when no one answered, she walked right in.

At the table in the kitchen, there were three bowls of porridge. Goldilocks was hungry (walks in the forest tend to do that) and proceeded to taste the porridge from the first bowl.

“This porridge is too hot!” she exclaimed.

Next, she tasted the porridge from the second bowl.

“This porridge is too cold,” she said

So (ever the optimist), she tasted the last bowl of porridge.

“Ahhh, this porridge is just right,” she said happily and ate it all up.

While we know that the bears soon returned home to find Goldilocks fast asleep in Baby Bear’s bed, we can learn a lot from Goldilocks (and not just the part about staying out of people’s –and bear’s– homes).

I recently had the opportunity to present a class on the Crus Bourgeois wines to the staff members of Bottle Rocket Wine & Spirit.

Since it was late (9:00 PM on a Thursday night), cold (polar vortex anyone?) and that they were likely to be tired (did I mention it was late?), I knew that I couldn’t give them too many facts and details. Not only would they easily forget them, it would simply be “too much” information.

I also knew that I couldn’t just talk about the Crus Bourgeois because the assembled group of employees possessed a varied set of existing knowledge about Bordeaux. Such an approach would provide “too little” information. I had to ensure that everyone had at least a basic understanding of the Bordeaux wine region.

Thus, I spent some time reviewing the essential elements of Bordeaux – climate, grape varieties, wine styles and appellations – before discussing and tasting the Crus Bourgeois wines. I acknowledged that some of this would be review for them and was careful not to dwell on irrelevant details. In addition, I made sure to emphasize the information that would be most useful to them in selling Bordeaux wine to their customers.

When I was finished with my presentation, the General Manager pronounced that what I had delivered to his staff was “just right.” I’m sure Goldilocks would be pleased.

Looking to expand your knowledge on Bordeaux and the Crus Bourgeois?

The inaugural issue of my Drink Wisely magazine was “All About Bordeaux,” but admittedly might be “too much” content for some readers. For a more general introduction to Bordeaux, see my Examiner article on Decoding Bordeaux (possibly “too little” for others). Finally, my Wine Portfolio article on the current status of the Crus Bourgeois might be “just right” to bring you up to speed on this important Bordeaux wine category.

Buying German Wine – Understanding the Label

Posted on December 16, 2013 by Tracy

Sprechen Sie Deutsch (Do you speak German)? Looking at the text on German wine labels, it is leichter gesagt als getan (easier said than done), or, more correctly, easier said than understood. And, for that matter, it isn’t even very easy to say.

If wine labels are generally intimidating to the uninitiated, German wine labels are among the most intimidating of all – unfamiliar names; lengthy, unpronounceable terms; and just an all around use of a lot of words could scare off even the most avid wine drinker.

But, in truth, German wine labels actually provide the consumer with a wealth of information about the wine in question. You don’t need a secret decoder ring, but learning some basic German wine vocabulary will assist you in understanding what you are looking at on the wine store shelf.

To begin, there are two levels of German quality wine – Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete(QbA) and Qualitätswein mit Prädikat (QmP). The first category designates wines that come from one of Germany’s 13 wine regions and account for the majority of German wine production. The latter (QmP) are more complicated because, in addition to coming from a particular wine region, they also indicate wines produced from grapes that have achieved certain levels of ripeness at harvest. These are considered to be higher in quality than QbA because Germany’s cool climate makes it more challenging to reach full ripeness, thereby placing a premium on riper grapes.

Once one has worked out the two quality levels, they may encounter some confusion with regard to the grape varieties themselves. Spätburgunder? Grauburgunder? Weissburgunder? Sure, they sound exotic, but actually, these are just the German names for Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, respectively. Other grapes likely to be seen include Müller-Thurgau (white), Silvaner (white) — particularly prized when it hails from Franken, Portugieser (red) and the more respected Dornfelder (red). Also of note is Lemberger (elsewhere known as Blaufränkisch) which offers red fruit, spice and nice tannin structure. Above all else, there’s Riesling; this vaunted white grape accounts for over one-quarter of all German plantings.

Dry or sweet? Although many people associate Germany with sweet wines, the majority of German wines produced today are dry. Admittedly, a lot of the drier style wines never make it to our shores (the Germans keep much of it at home for themselves), but consumers can find dry style German wines on U.S. shelves. Some of these wines are distinctly labeled as being dry – if you know how to decipher the label. The specific words to look for are trocken (dry) and halbtrocken (off-dry).

In addition, the label terms “Classic” and “Selection” may also be used to indicate a dry (or high-acid, off-dry) wine. Similarly, wines bearing the double Romanesque arch of the Charta Association, created in 1983, are dry to off-dry QbA- or prädikat-level Rieslings from the Rheingau region that meet the organization’s strict quality regulations.

In general, wines that have no indication of their sweetness level can usually be expected to be somewhat sweet. Another hint is to check the alcohol level since lower alcohol levels (9% abv and lower) generally mean that at least some of the grape’s sugar content hasn’t been converted into alcohol and, thus, remains in the wine as detectable sweetness.

As with many other wine producing countries, Germany’s wine regions can be further broken down into smaller areas – bereiche, grosslagen and einzellagen. A bereich is a regional or district designation, while a grosslage is a group of vineyards and an einzellage is, theoretically, a single vineyard. Unfortunately, it is these last two territories that cause the most confusion since it is often difficult to ascertain whether the label refers to a grosslage or einzellage.

However, this uncertainty can be overcome by either memorizing a list of the top sites, limiting purchases to wines from well-known/well-respected producers or simply giving up and taking a chance on the bottle in hand, despite its murky label (well, not really).

Thankfully, an additional classification system was launched in 2002 by the Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter, can boost one’s confidence in choosing a wine. Established in 1910 and abbreviated as VDP, this association represents Germany’s leading wine estates, with a dual focus on quality wine production and classified vineyard sites. All of these wines sport the association’s eagle logo, making them easily identifiable to the consumer.

In 2012, this classification system was further refined, closely modeled on Burgundy’s regional and vineyard hierarchy. Accordingly, the top category, VDP. Grosse Lage (translating as Great Site) is awarded to the best vineyard sites, equivalent to Burgundy’s Grand Cru vineyards. Dry wines in this upper echelon are further designated as VDP. Grosses Gewächs “Great Growth” and labeled “Qualitätswein trocken” while naturally sweet wines are labeled with the appropriate traditional Prädikat term.

Analogous to Burgundy’s Premier Cru vineyards is the VDP. Erste Lage (First Site), while VDP. Ortswein (Classified Site) is akin to Burgundy’s Village-level wines. The lowest tier of this system is the VDP. Gutswein (Estate Wine), which is similar to the regional designation in Burgundy (i.e. AOC Bourgogne). Dry wines in these categories are also labeled “Qualitätswein trocken” while the sweet wines retain the Prädikat designation on their labels.

Bearing all of these clues in mind, the careful consumer can more readily choose among the selection of German wines on the shelf of their neighborhood wine retailer and find the bottle that best meets their preferences.

silvaner

Castell-Castell Silvaner 2012, Franken, Germany, $18.00
With aromas of pear, wax and white flowers, this dry wine offers medium acidity and medium body on the palate with flavors of almond, wax and pear and medium+ length.

Grafen Neipperg Lemberger
Trocken 2011, Württemberg, Germany, $20.00 (not pictured)
Medium aromas of cinnamon, berry and wood are joined on the (clearly stated –trocken) dry palate with flavors of cranberry, mulberry and a hint of earth in the finish.

Undone PN Undone Pinot Noir
2012, Rheinhessen, Germany, $11.00
A Pinot Noir from Germany isn’t so surprising these days (Germany is #3 in PN production), but this wine’s origin from Rheinhessen (as opposed to Ahr or Baden) makes it somewhat unusual as does its great quality at this price. With cherry, herbal and wet leaves on the nose, this dry wine has lively acidity on the palate. Medium+ length.

Schloss Saarstein Riesling Kabinett 2012, Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner, Mosel, Germany, $25.00
Located within the municipality of Serrig, the Schloss Saarsteiner property, so named for the large castle (schloss) that sits amidst the vines, above the Saar River (a tributary of the Mosel) is an Erste Lage site. The wine offers peach, floral and wet stone aromas on the nose. Its palate is off-dry with high acidity and flavors of lime zest, peach and wet stone, culminating in long length.

Prinz Salm Roxheimer
Berg Spätlese 2012, Nahe, Germany, $28.00
With an alcohol level of 7.5% abv and a designation of spätlese, there was no question that this wine (from a Grosse Lage site) would have some sweetness. However, its sweetness is beautifully balanced by its high acidity, so it is perceived as off-dry on the palate, with lemon zest, lime, peach, honey and minerality aromas and flavors.

Johannishof Charta Riesling 2012, Rheingau, Germany, $25.00

A pronounced nose provides aromas of floral, straw, wet stone and Asian pear. The dry palate displays high acidity with notes of granny smith apple, lime, stone, pith, blossom and minerality. Long Length.

Kesselstatt Josephshöfer Riesling Kabinett 2012, Mosel, Germany, $30.00
First documented 1,100 years ago, the Josephshöfer Grosse Lage site has been wholly owned by Kesselstatt since 1858. Citrus, floral, apricot and slight honey aromas greet the nose and persist on the dry, but ripe, palate. Long length.

It's A Winederful Life

Living la vita del vino with Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

Category Archives: Wine Education