Category Archives: Viticulture

DiamAndes – A Diamond in the Argentine Rough

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Bruno LaPlane is at home and ensconced in the Bordeaux wine industry having married into the Bonnie family, producers of Château Malartic-Lagravière and Chateau Gazin-Rocquencourt. However, with the increasing popularity of Argentina, he and the Bonnie family were eager to expand their interests. So, when the opportunity to join the Clos de los Siete project in Mendoza arose, they jumped at it. Accordingly, in 2005, the family purchased 130 hectares and built their own winery on the property, completed in 2009. Named for nearby Diamond Lake, in which the reflection of a volcano appears as a diamond, and the imposing Andes mountain range, DiamAndes was born.

DiamAndes released its Gran Reserva wine in New York earlier this year. This flagship wine is a blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.  The company is now ready to introduce additional wines to the market under the name of DiamAndes de Uco, which includes: Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec and Syrah. Another new wine is the entry-level Perlita by DiamAndes, which blends Malbec and Syrah and retails for $10.00/bottle.  Like LePlane, the Malbec grape, which does so well in Argentina’s high altitude vineyards, is also from Bordeaux. Not surprisingly, it accounts for 66% of the DiamAndes plantings.

Although these wines are priced at the value end of the market, they are still produced with the same careful attention to detail as those used in Bordeaux. More specifically, there is a keen emphasis on terroir, self-imposed strict yields (45 hl/ha) and hand harvesting, with a focus on crafting elegant wines. Aside from being located a world away from one another, the difference is that the cost of land and labor makes these Argentina exports much less expensive to produce, while still retaining the high quality for which the Bonnie family is known.

Chardonnay 2010
This grape variety represents 72% of the white plantings at DiamAndes. With a nose of slight spice, pear, some citrus and vanilla, the aromas repeat on the typically full-bodied palate, joined with some slight minerality.

Viognier 2010
Spice, apricot and tangerine aromas persist on the palate, along with floral notes. The full-bodied wine has medium acidity.

Malbec 2010
This wine presents with mostly black fruits and a slight floral character. It has nice acidity, with firm, yet ripe, tannins, becoming more complex on the palate with its flavors of blackberry, spice, vanilla and oak.

Gran Reserva 2007 (70% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon)
A structured and elegant wine with spice, oak, blackberry, bramble fruit and slight eucalyptus notes, the tannins are quite firm, but should mellow with bottle age.

Also see my previous article on the Gran Reserva.

Lovable, but Lesser-known Lombardy and its Lago di Garda Wines

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When asked to name an Italian wine region, most people will probably answer Tuscany or Piedmont, while Lombardy is less likely to come to mind. Yet, this northwestern region boasts many high quality wines such as Franciacorta and Valtellina. Known much more for its lake district and its capital city of Milan, Lombardy has attracted U.S. visitors for decades, but its wines generally remain unknown even though its viticultural history dates back to the 1300s.

The sizeable Lago di Garda (Lake Garda) not only adds to the beauty of the area, but also serves as an important climatic influence. Formed by glacial activity, the lake is at the center of concentric hills, which flow westward and is responsible for the area’s Mediterranean climate despite its northerly locale (it shares a border with Switzerland). In addition to grapes, capers, lemon trees and olive groves flourish, marking the northernmost point for these plant species.

Among the red grapes, many indigenous varieties are planted here. Known for its spicy aromatic character, Gropello is the most planted variety with its plantings limited to the slopes of Valtènesi. The local rosé is called Chiaretto and shares the same recipe as the red wine Rosso Garda Classico: Gropello (30% minimum), Marzemino (5% minimum), Barbera (5% minimum) and Sangiovese (5% minimum). The difference between the two wines is in the winemaking. The Chiaretto, produced since the 15th century, has its must separated from the grape skins after a single night’s maceration,. The Classico moniker in Rosso Garda Classico denotes the wine’s origin from the traditional/original viticultural area.

The region’s white grapes are less obscure – Riesling, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay – with the exception of Tocai, which is also known as San Martino. Denominations for white wines include Lugana DOC, San Martino DOC and Benaco Bresciano Bianco IGT. The Chardonnay is also used to make sparkling wines, often blended with Pinot Noir, produced in both the Traditional and Charmat Methods.

That being said, Peri’s Peri Talento Brut IGT 2007 is 100% Chardonnay. Produced using the Traditional Method, the wine showed some yeasty notes along with citrus and apple, finishing cleanly on the palate.

Lugana DOC Perla 2008 from Perla del Garda, blends 90% Trebbiano di Lugana and 10% Chardonnay for a wine with high acidity, citrus notes and minerality.

The indigenous Lugana grape makes its appearance in the Lugana DOC although other white grapes are permitted. Marangona’s Lugana DOC Tre Campane 2008 made solely from this variety has nutty and herbal aromas along with citrus on the dry palate. The Lugana DOC 2008 from Monte Cicogna is 100% Trebbiano di Lugana with aromas of stone and hay joined by citrus, honey, herbal, and bitter almond notes.

The rosé Chiaretto Garda Classico DOC Giovanni Aranzi 2009 is comprised of 60% Gropello, 10% Barbera, 15% Sangiovese and 15% Marzemino and greets the nose with fresh strawberry and cherry. The dry wine shows off its fresh fruit and floral flavors on the palate finishing with a bitter almond note.

Among the reds tasted, the Benaco Bresciano Rosso IGT 2005 Nepomucceno from Cantrina (70% Merlot, 15% Rebo and 10% Marzemino) displays deep, rich black fruit and chocolate. The Cascina Spia d’Italia’s Garda Classico DOC Rosso Superiore 2007 includes the required grapes (percentages unspecified) as well as Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine offers aromas of black fruits, floral and vanilla while berries and bitter almond dominate the palate.

Speaking to a group of press and trade members, Santi Bonhomme, President of the Lago di Garda Consorzio, explained that a project to group all of the red wines under a single denomination – Valenèsi – was underway. This move may help to simplify these wines in the U.S. marketplace, but will not go far enough in demystifying them. I would suggest that Lago di Garda may be a better choice because perhaps it will be a fond reminder of vacations past for the American buyer.

A Meeting of the (Winemakers’) Minds

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While it is great to hear from winemakers about their wines, it isn’t exactly a unique experience. However, listening to a panel of winemakers from around the globe talk about key issues in the wine world is a special treat. And, one perhaps made even better when that panel is moderated by Kevin Zraly.

In July 2010, amidst a torrential downpour, I arrived at Moet-Hennessy’s Chelsea offices damp, but not downtrodden. Welcoming the cup of coffee that was offered, I spent some time viewing various displays for Moet-Hennessy products. Once everyone had arrived and was assembled in the conference room, the Winemakers’ Forum began.

The panel included Leone Contini Bonacossi, Owner of Capezzana; Marc Sorrel, Estate Director for Chateau de Sancerre; Nicolas Audebert, Cheval des Andes’ winemaker; Ian Morden, Estate Director for Cloudy Bay; Joel Burt, Assistant Winemaker at Domaine Chandon; Andrea Leon, Winemaker for Casa Lapostolle; Andrea Felluga, Livio Felluga’s winemaker; Laura Bianchi, owner of Monsanto; Chris Millard, executive winemaker at Newton Vineyard; Winemaker Manuel Louzada from Numanthia; and Terrazas’ senior winemaker, Adrian Meyer.

Kevin kicked off the session by asking the winemakers to share their favorite wine memories, especially those that cemented their interest in, and love for, wine. For some, it was a single wine – perhaps a 1996 Bandol (Adrian), Krug 1928 (Nicolas) or a Bonne Mares from one’s birth year (Marc). For others, it was a particular experience – tasting sparkling wine in the winery with one’s grandfather (Manuel) or stealing down into the cellar at 13 (Andrea L.) or 5 (Leone) and drinking from either the bottle or barrel, respectively. And, as Ian reminded everyone, context is everything; “You can’t divorce wine from the occasion.”

Trekkies know that space is the final frontier, but Kevin next queried where in the world was the next wine frontier. There was a diversity of responses ranging from the need to explore higher altitudes due to climate change and the shift in wine styles to up-and-coming grape varieties and regions. There was no one grape variety identified, but rather, certain varieties were associated with new areas such as Syrah in New Zealand’s Hawkes Bay; Chenin Blanc in Stellenbosch, South Africa; Petit Verdot in Maipu, Chile; and the  rediscovery of Trebbiano, Malvasia and Friulano.

Building on the topic of change and innovation, the discussion then centered on changes in winemaking. On this, there was more consensus among panel members. Many spoke about the return to more traditional winemaking and a less is more approach. Another theme was an increased emphasis on the vineyard and terroir.

Viticultural advances were further noted such as drip irrigation and the development of rootstocks. A focus on balance was also mentioned, whether through canopy management, matching grape varieties with the right climate or achieving balance in the wine itself.

Here, Mary Ewing-Mulligan asked the panel to address the fact that the alcohol is not in balance even though winemakers say it’s not about alcohol. In response, Nicolas explained that sometimes waiting for full maturity in the grapes results in high alcohol levels. He added that while “[the alcohol level] could be high and be too much, it could [also] be high and you don’t feel it.” “I feel it,” said Mary.

With regard to wine in the market, both Laura and Marc lamented that consumption habits had declined in Europe, especially with the younger generation which drinks less wine and more beer and cocktails. While others agreed, Ian countered that new markets, especially China and Brazil, were becoming increasingly sophisticated with regard to wine.

More specific to the American market, Leone expressed pleasant surprise at the level of knowledge displayed by the people at her hotel’s reception desk. She was impressed with the broad picture they had on wine compared with young Italians whom, she said, have a more regional palate.

When Kevin mused about the outlook for the U.S. – Is it generally getting better? There was a resounding yes from the group. However, this sentiment needs to be tempered in light of recent economic issues.

And, what was their opinion of American wines? A number of people mentioned the quality of Oregon wines, naming its Pinot Noirs and sparkling wines in particular. However, Laura confessed that she had tasted American Sangiovese, but wasn’t worried about the competition (she produces Chianti, which is primarily made from Sangiovese).

Questioned about wine critics, the feeling was that critics play an important role, helping to narrow the field for the consumer. However, it was also admitted that, like any system, it has some good and bad elements associated with it. While Andrea L. stated that it was rewarding as a winemaker to receive high scores, Nicolas emphasized that, “if you are making wine as a passion, you are not making wine for critics.” Joel also suggested that the power of big critics is waning due to blogs, an opinion that Chris shared.

As a final topic, the conversation turned to biodynamics and organics. A few, such as Nicolas and Adrian, admitted that being organic was easy for them due to climatic conditions. Yet, Andrea F. and others pointed to high rainfall and humidity as impediments to such practices. However, the overall feeling was that such viticultural practices were crucial in and of themselves, not as marketing efforts. Consequently, many winemakers don’t indicate their practices on the label. In this regard, Joel proposed that, “It’s important to be stewards of the land,” an emotion echoed by Andrea F., who noted that, “We have to take care of the planet.”

New Wines from Old Vines – Ravenswood’s Single-vineyard Zins

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“There’s a lot of Zin’ because that’s what I do.” So began Joel Peterson, founder and winemaker of Ravenswood, as he welcomed us to dinner at Blue Hill in mid-June. Concerned that one might jump to the conclusion that these are monster wines, Peterson was quick to describe his Zins as being “in proportion” with “lovely character”. He further advised that he grew up drinking European wines, which informs his winemaking to this day. The winemaker also insists that Zinfandel is expressive with regard to terroir. And, in that vein, he proceeded to show us his single-vineyard Zinfandels from low yielding, old vines as proof.

A founding member of ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates and Producers), Peterson is intimately familiar with Zinfandel’s history. As modern DNA analysis has shown, the variety dates back to Croatia as a descendent of Crljenak Kaštelanski (I don’t know how to pronounce it either). However, Zinfandel arrived on America’s shores in 1824, landing first in the Ravenswood section of Queens then making its way to California in the 1850s. By 1884, there were 30,000 acres planted there.

Yet despite this heritage, Peterson’s choice of company name is unrelated and simply coincidence. Rather, in 1976, when Peterson harvested his first crop of grapes, it began to rain. He hastened to pick all the grapes before the precipitation could ruin them and noticed during his work that two, large ravens watched him throughout the entire day. These black birds became his totem and, along with an operatic connection to Lucia di Lammermoor, an opera he favors, cemented the moniker. With its purported hypnotic design, the three entwined birds of his logo have become a much-requested tattoo.

Although he initially began his career in clinical research, Peterson was drawn to winemaking, serving first as an apprentice and then obtaining money to go out on his own. And, while many adults might credit their parents for sparking their curiosity in wine, few children can say that their arrival was the catalyst for a similar pursuit by their parents. Peterson can say both – that his parents influenced his interest in wine and that he is partly responsible for them ever getting involved in wine in the first place.

When Joel was born in 1947, his mother, a nuclear chemist, chose to leave the workforce and become a stay-at-home mom. Spending time in the kitchen instead of the laboratory, she taught herself to cook. Among her food-related reading, she noted that the French drank wine with their meals, a novel concept in U.S. culture at the time. Intrigued, she set out to buy a bottle of French wine for Thanksgiving; it took two weeks to find one in California, but her search was rewarded with a bottle of 1945 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The next purchase was a mixed case, which cost $15.00 and included Haut Brion and Château d’Yquem.

From this simple introduction, Joel’s dad went on to found the San Francisco Wine Sampling Club (now known as the San Francisco Vintners Club) and called upon his 10-year old son to smell, taste (and spit) the wines in order to identify simpler terms for describing the wines in his newsletter. To this day, Peterson says, “You can tell everything about a wine just by smelling.” Joel’s more formal education includes a degree in microbiology from Oregon State University.

Given his exposure to French wines, Peterson selected Zinfandel as his grape of choice because, to him, it was the most European variety in California at the time. While the Ravenswood Vintner’s Blend is much better known, Peterson actually began crafting single-vineyard designated wines from Sonoma County with that first, rainy vintage. His current range includes six, single-vineyard designated wines.

Having commented that he, “…like[d] acid and tannin; these are my friends,” during dinner, it was not surprising that both were evident as we tasted through the wines.

The Dickerson Vineyard, in Napa Valley, dates to 1920. Infected with the leaf-roll virus, the vines do not photosynthesize well, which leads to higher acidity in the grapes and the resulting wines. The 2008 is angular with bright red fruit.

Situated at the south end of the Alexander Valley, Big River Vineyard is comprised of volcanic soil. The wines it produces are “perfume-y and pretty” and the 2008 was no different with its elegance and long length.

Owned by the Belloni family, Ricardo (now deceased) used to make wine from his own grapes as well as sell them until he tasted Joel’s Belloni Zinfandel, feeling that the grapes were better in Joel’s hands than his own. Referred to as a “big bruiser” by Peterson, this Zinfandel is co-fermented as a field blend with Alicante Bouschet, Carignane and Petite Sirah. The 2008 showed rich, jammy fruit with soft tannins.

Named for BARbara and PatRICA, the Barrica Vineyard is located in the Sonoma Valley appellation. Originally established in 1860, this historic vineyard was owned by George Hearst, father of William Randolph Hearst, and, in 1885, was the first vineyard in California to be planted on American rootstock. The 2008 displays distinct structure and weight with blueberry, vanilla and floral aromas.

The certified organic, Old Hill Ranch was the first non-Mission vineyard and contains roughly half Zinfandel and half “mixed blacks,” some of which that have yet to be identified. The wine itself is composed of 75% Zinfandel and 25% mixed blacks and is the spiciest of the 2008 line up.

From Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley, Teldeschi’s vines include Zinfandel, Carignane and Petite Sirah, which are fermented separately. Peterson described this wine as “big,” “beautiful” and with “rich cherry and vanilla.” In addition to the usual bramble fruit, the 2008 had smoky aromas along with dried herbs.

Shifting attention somewhat away from Zinfandel toward the end of the night, Peterson presented us with two more wines –the ICON Mixed Blacks, a field blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane and Alicante Bouschet and his proprietary red blend, Pickberry Red.

The former is the “once and future wine of California” representing grape varieties that were planted prior to 1920, while the latter, from Sonoma Mountain, is a Bordeaux-style wine. The 2007 Pickberry is a blend of 58% Merlot and 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, without the usual Cabernet Franc he usually adds, due to vintage conditions.

Regardless of which vineyard’s grapes were in the glass, none of the wines had what Peterson refers to as the “three sins of Zin – too much sugar, alcohol and/or oak.” They were all beautifully balanced and did, indeed express the individual terroirs.

A Fresh Look at Frascati

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Fontana Candida's winemaker, Mauro Merz

Long the ambassador for Italian wines, Frascati adopted a low profile as a light-bodied quaffer – easy to drink, but just as easily dismissed. However, when the focus shifts to providing a product that is, above and beyond, authentic and of the highest quality, this is a wine that can also offer a refreshing surprise.

Named for the town of Frascati within Lazio and proximate to Rome, the Frascati DOC was the first one established back in 1966. This traditional wine is a white blend comprised primarily of Malvasia de Lazio and/or Malvasia di Candia, along with Trebbiano Toscano, Trebbiano Gialla, Greco, Bombino (and somewhat more controversial, up to 10% of aromatic, international varieties, ie. Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc).

The leader in this region, Fontana Candida, believes that wine must bring joy; be made naturally; and be an expression of its place. With this philosophy in mind, the company continues to work on improving brand Frascati for both itself and the region at large. To that end, they hired an agronomist and offered his services free of charge to the local growers – small, family farms.

While the motive was admittedly selfish — they wanted to source better fruit — growers who bought into these changes have reaped the rewards of Fontana Candida’s largesse. Not only did they receive the free consultation, but now also earn significantly more for their grapes when selling to Fontana Candida. Moreover, at a time when the delimited area is shrinking due to Rome’s urbanization projects and an overall decline in grape prices, Fontana Candida has committed to maintaining its higher prices, paying up to 40% over the base in incentives.

The resulting wines show off the quality of vineyard work coupled with the true expression of tradition and terroir. The flagship Fontana Candida Frascati Superiore DOC (SRP $10.00) is fresh and fruity, but with the weight to stand up to food. And, of particular interest, they are capable of aging.

No really. A mini-vertical of their Vigneto Santa Teresa Frascati Superiore 1997, 2001 and 2004 wines proved the point in spades. Winemaker Mauro Merz stresses that the wines will not necessarily improve with time, they will evolve and last. With a certain gravitas, these wines displayed both elegance and depth. Whereas the young wine displayed fresher notes of green apple and a slightly savory aspect, the older wines showed honey, bruised fruit (pear and apple) and dried herbs. The most mature (1997) showed signs of age with a slightly oxidative character on the nose, but was still enjoyable with its palate cleaner than its nose.

Equally delightful were the producer’s Luna Mater wines (SRP $23.00). First produced in 2008 in celebration of Fontana Candida’s 50th anniversary, the wine is made with select lots from older vines averaging 50 years and aged in large Acacia wood casks (which was selected for its ability to bring out the best characteristics of Malvasia grape). However, the intention is not to dominate the wine with wood. Rather, the aging extracts the wood tannins, lending structure and longevity to the finished wines, the former of which was evident upon tasting these wines as were aromas and flavors of pear and almond.

With its motto “Quality above all,” it is clear that Fontana Candida is producing wines of depth, elegance and richness that can be enjoyed in their youth as well as their more golden years. Either way, the wines offered a fresh look at old faithful Frascati.

Navarra: Ancient Kingdom of Modern Wines

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Our mother made the pimentos, she tells us. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we sit outside under the shade of an arbor on a sun-filled summer’s day. An enormous feast is suddenly set before us – salad, sausages, tortillas, jamon, pimentos, cheese, while bottles of wine, tasted earlier at the Ochoa winery, stand at attention, ready to poured. We are joined by Adrianna, Beatriz and Pablo and are treated like dear old friends of the family.

A few days later, a modern box suspended high above the vineyards serves as the site for lunch. Javier points out the Otazu winery and other buildings on the estate from this vantage point. Juxtaposed, the two scenes seem unlinked, but, in fact, they are indicative of Navarra’s dichotomy of old and new co-existing throughout the region.

Two wolves adorn the Ochoa crest, the Basque word for which is ochoa. The family can trace its winemaking roots to a document dated 1370 in which Queen Juana (Carlos II’s wife) orders payment to wine merchant, Ochoa de Ayanz. Several towns away, in Ujué, a mural in a Romanesque church features a similar crest, almost as further evidence of the Ochoa heritage. Stretching back farther to the Romans, Navarra has been at the crossroads of many cultures for centuries. At Villa Romana de Arellano, the dolias unearthed by a farmer show that wine was an important product from the very beginning.

More currently, Ochoa has played a pivotal role in Navarra’s wine industry with Javier Ochoa’s role in establishing EVENA (Navarra Viticulture and Oenology Station). Continuing the family’s winemaking legacy, daughter Adriana recently took over as head winemaker and sister, Beatriz, handles marketing and sales. Reflective of Navarra’s international outlook, Adriana studied viticulture and enology in Bordeaux, France and worked the harvest in Australia before taking the reins from dad.

This duality of tradition and modernity can be seen over and over again in different forms. When we arrive, the town of Puente la Reina is bustling with activity – people sit outside in cafes and bars enjoying tapas and other treats in the summer’s afternoon. A veritable tower of Babel, a mix of languages and accents are heard as we catch snippets of conversations when we pass by. The year is 2011, but we would have found a nearly identical scene had it been 1211. Situated along the Camino de Santiago, Puente la Reina, in the heart of Navarra, is just one of the many towns that were built to provide the pilgrims with food and shelter as they made their way to Santiago de Campostela, bringing their customs and cultures as they passed through.

Further down the road, the well-worn and well-signed path snakes its way past a medieval castle at Castillo Monjardin. The castle and its eponymous winery are presided over by Sonia and her husband, Victor. While not part of Spain’s monarchy, there is a royal air about the place, which recalls Navarra’s history as a separate kingdom (maintaining its independence until it succumbed to the Castilian empire in 1512).  Planted to Chardonnay, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, their vineyards underscore Navarra’s link to France. In fact, the Compte de Champagne, Theobald, also held the title of King of Navarra.

Similarly, at Otazu, Javier leads us through the ancient cellars, stopping to point out an alter that dates to the 14th century. After walking the long corridor, we turn to our right and are confronted by a set of glass doors that serve as the entrance to the new barrel room. Though just steps away, we are suddenly transported seven centuries to what is best described as a modern temple truly dedicated to Bacchus, with 1,000+ French oak barrels resting under the vaulted ceiling.

Nearby, St. Martin de Unx’s winemaker proudly professes the winery’s commitment to Spanish varieties: Garnacha, Tempranillo and Viura. While the co-op sticks to traditional grapes, it is experimenting with Navarran oak, grown in local forests, and, as he is quick to point out, are the only ones to be conducting such trials, another point of pride. In a nod to the future, the winery also created a semi-sweet rosé to appeal to the younger generation of Spaniards who crave Coke® instead of wine.

Testing is also alive and well at Inurrieta, which planted Sauvignon Blanc before it became an authorized grape for the DO. Now, its two Sauvignon Blancs garner critical acclaim.

Produced from both native and international grape varieties, Navarra’s wines speak to the history and tradition of the region, while making room for what is to come. However, what is most striking about these wines is their quality. In tasting one after another, there was concentration, complexity and beautiful balance. Even more amazing, when inquiring about retail prices, most wines fall under $20.00, with quite a few under $15.00.

With its long tenure of winemaking, international influences and openness to trying new things, Navarra’s wineries remain true to this heritage. What the future holds for Navarra is anyone’s guess, but it is sure to be focused on innovation, while being strongly anchored in the region’s culturally diverse past.

 

Tasting Notes

Inurrieta Orchidea Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Navarra, Spain, $10.00
While Sauvignon Blanc is newly authorized for the region, Inurrieta produces two, with the Orchidea its unwooded venture with this grape. Aromas of citrus and tropical fruit give way to high acidity, citrus, especially grapefruit, with a slight floral note. The sur lie treatment adds some roundness to the palate, which culminates in medium+ length.

Castillo de Monjardin Chardonnay Reserva 2007, Navarra, Spain, $19.00
Castillo de Monjardin is the only one producing a Reserva-level Chardonnay. Having been barrel fermented and aged in French oak, this wine provides notes of apple, spice, butterscotch and vanilla on the nose. Its palate is full-bodied with apple, lime, spice and slight oak flavors. Overall, this wine is complex, bright and creamy, with long length.

Ochoa Rosado Lágrima 2010, Navarra, Spain, $11.00
Navarra is well-known for its rosés (aka rosados) and with good reason. The more “serious” of Ochoa’s rosés, the Lágrima is comprised of 50% each of Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon, with deep pink hue. Floral and berry aromas persist on the palate, along with depth and structure due to the wine’s slight tannic grip, herbal character and long length.

Senorio de Unx Reserva 2004, Navarra, Spain, $20.00
Produced from 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnarcha, the Reserva spent 15 months in a combination of French and American oak. The nose offers dried herbs, floral, spice and raisin, while the palate emphasizes dried figs, red fruit and sweet spice. With its medium+ tannins, full body and long length, this wine could continue to age and develop with time.

Otazu Pago de Otazu 2006, Navarra, Spain, $32.00
The Pago designation, which supersedes the DOCa level, was added to Spain’s wine laws in 2006 and is only awarded to very best estates (to date, there are only 10 Vinos de Pago throughout all of Spain). A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Tempranillo, this wine displays wet earth, dried herbs, red fruit and cinnamon on the nose. The full-bodied palate has medium+ acidity, medium tannins with notes of red fruit and earth, which linger in the long length.

Two from the Clos

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The vineyards of Clos de los Siete in Mendoza, Argentina, are the brainchild of Michel Rolland, flying winemaker, closely associated with Bordeaux. The ambitious project seeks to bring five owners together to create their own wines as well as a collaborative wine.

Although the project was launched in 1998 and the Clos de los Siete by Michel Rolland wine has been available since 2002, a new wine from the property recently made its debut—DiamAndes Gran Reserva. Owned by the Bonnie family of Bordeaux, France (and proprietors of Château Malartic Lagravière), the vineyards for Bodega DiamAndes were planted in 2005.

While the wines are produced from vines grown in close proximity, the foci of the winemakers are different. Whereas the Clos de los Siete by Michel Rolland is produced from a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, with actual percentages varying from vintage to vintage, the DiamAndes is heavily comprised of Malbec, seasoned with Cabernet Sauvignon.

I tasted these two wines side by side from the same vintage, 2007, as a way to compare and contrast the different blends from the same terroir.

The Clos de los Siete (48% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Syrah) was fruit forward in style with youthful notes of blueberries, vanilla, plum and slight wood. The full-bodied wine had medium+, but ripe, tannins and an overall ripe fruit/jammy appeal.

In comparison, the DiamAndes Gran Reserva, comprised of 70% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged in French oak (presumably new since the winery is new itself), was more elegant and austere. This wine showed some slight development on the nose along with more overt oak/wood aromas. Similarly full-bodied, but with dustier tannins, this wine offered flavors of dark plum, oak and vanilla. Despite the more obvious use of oak, this wine was beautifully balanced.

Although one style may appeal to someone’s palate more so than the other, I enjoyed them both for their differences.

In Support of Pinot

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Winemaker David Rossi co-founded Fulcrum Wines with Christine Rossi. With a sharp focus on balance, David seeks to create wines that maintain a harmony among acidity, tannin and alcohol levels, use of oak and the expression of the fruit. Working out of a facility in Napa, CA, Pinot Noir grapes are sourced from the cooler climate AVAs of the state. Accordingly, the winery produces a range of Pinots, including several single vineyard wines.

The 2008 vintage offered a diversity of four wines, which were tasted in pairs, providing an opportunity to compare and contrast the different origins.

 

Fulcrum On Point Pinot Noir 2008, Santa Lucia Highlands, CA
Aromas: Blackcherry, cedar, earth/soil and cherry pie
Flavors: Deep blackcherry, earth and cloves
Structure: Medium+ acidity, medium+ body, very long length
An excellent wine, with aging potential.

Fulcrum Pinot Noir 2008, Anderson Valley, CA
Aromas: Plum, cherry, cinnamon, vanilla
Flavors: Cherry, cinnamon
Structure: Medium+ acidity, medium-bodied, long length.

The wines from Santa Lucia Highlands and Anderson Valley were tasted together. While both were very good wines, our preference was for the Santa Lucia Highlands wine (On Point Pinot Noir).

 

Fulcrum Caps Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008, Sonoma Coast, CA
Aromas: Plum, earthy
Flavors: Raspberry and earth, the latter of which persists throughout the finish
Structure: Medium+ acidity, medium body, long length

Fulcrum Tina Marie Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008, Russian River Valley, CA
Aromas: Floral, berry
Flavors: Raspberry and herbal
Structure: Medium acidity, medium+ body, medium+ alcohol, long length

The Caps Crown and Tina Marie single vineyard wines were tasted together. The Caps Crown was more earthy and masculine while the Tina Marie was more floral and herbal and a bit more elegant despite its fuller body. However, both were wonderful wines.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Yours ’til Niagara Falls (June 2011)

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We hope this missive finds you well and enjoying the newly arrived summer season.

In just a few days, Tracy will be off to the Kingdom of Navarra in Spain’s Basque region visiting wineries and historic sites.

She’ll return in plenty of time for our 2011 Season launch on June 25, 2011. You won’t want to miss this special evening, which will feature a brief wine class on Australian wine, followed by a concert and story-telling by Australian folksinger, Susanna Carman, as part of her U.S. tour. Enjoy wines and cheeses as you listen to Susanna sing and share her tales of living Down Under.

Another new and exciting class this year is a wine and chocolate tasting with Roxanne Browning of Exotic Chocolate Tasting on August 14 (this is a date change from what was previously announced). Roxanne will share the world of artisanal
chocolate from bean to bar, while Tracy will focus on the world of wine, with a delicious line-up of wines carefully selected to pair with Roxanne’s chocolates.

Visit our website to sign up for these and all other classes.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer
Yours ‘til Niagara Falls

Last month, we had the pleasure of visiting the Niagara wine regions in both Canada and the U.S. Within the region, which centers around Lake Ontario, a wide range of microclimates is made possible by not only the maritime influence, but also, the Niagara Escarpment. The escarpment is a ridge of cliffs, which was formed by millions of years of uneven erosion (softer rocks eroded more quickly than harder rocks) and is responsible for the sheer drop of Niagara Falls. As a result, agricultural areas south of the escarpment are warmer due to the protection that the escarpment provides. As a prominent topographical feature, the Niagara Escarpment is recognized by UNESCO as a World Biosphere Reserve and extends on both sides of the border.

Within Canada’s Niagara Peninsula Viticultural Area are 10 different sub-appellations. Interestingly, the diverse variety of these microclimates has carved out areas that emulate Burgundy and Germany, while the warmer areas look to Bordeaux as their model. While the northerly location of this area likely brings cold weather to mind, some areas, such as the St. David’s Bench, experience sufficiently high temperatures in the summer, permitting Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc to ripen to maturity. In the U.S., the Niagara Escarpment American Viticultural Area (AVA) is a recent addition to New York’s wine region having only been established in 2005. With a much younger history, the American wineries are taking advice and cues from their Canadian cousins, whose region dates back to the 1970s.

Of course, it does get quite cold in the late fall and throughout the winter season, which provides ideal conditions for the production of true icewine/Eiswein (as opposed to man-made ice wine). Waiting until the grapes freeze naturally on the vine – at great risk – the frozen grapes are picked in during the last days of December into the month of February. This harvest work is not for the faint of heart given the brutally frigid weather (10-14oF) in which it must be conducted. With the grapes significantly longer tenure on the vines, the sugar levels have risen dramatically while the action of freezing allows much of the water content to be removed, thereby concentrating the juice.

Although there are numerous soil types throughout the region, areas with limestone rich soils account for distinct minerality in many of the wines and the opportunity to blind taste two Chardonnays (from different vineyards, but produced in an identical way) at Tawse Winery (Canadian Winery of the Year 2010) reinforced the impact of soil or as the French would say le gout de terroir (taste of the terroir). While there were some misses among the wines we tasted, overall, we were impressed with the quality of the wines, particularly those from Canada. Several of the American wineries are still focused on American grape varieties as well as fruit wines and nearly all are only a few years old and the lack of maturity (as did their potential) showed.

TASTING NOTES

Tawse Winery, Quarry Road Chardonnay 2009, Niagara Escarpment, Canada, $34.95
The aforementioned Tawse produces its wines following the principles of biodynamics and whether you ascribe to their philosophies or not, there is no denying that they are producing great wines. Reminiscent of Burgundian Chardonnays, this wine is dry with vibrant acidity, medium to full body and notes of mineral, melon and citrus.

Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery, Cuvée Catherine Rosé Brut Sparkling Wine NV, Niagara Escarpment, Canada, $30.00
Established in 1988, this winery is a true family affair with a lineage dating back to 1842. This Traditional Method sparkler is named for the matriarch of the family, Catherine Smith, and is a product of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and 30 months of aging on the lees (dead yeast cells). The yeasty notes showed on both the nose and palate, joined by aromas and flavors of strawberry and a refreshingly clean finish.

Thirty Bench Wine Makers, Small Lot Triangle Vineyard Riesling 2009, Beamsville Bench, Canada, $30.00
While not exclusively devoted to Riesling, Thirty Bench does produce several different “small lot” Rieslings. Harvested from the estate’s Triangle Vineyard, this dry wine has high acidity, with bright fruit aromas and flavors of citrus and melon, culminating in a long finish.

Vineland Estates Winery, Riesling 1989, Niagara Escarpment, Canada
Among the oldest vineyards in the region, Vineland was initially founded in 1979 by the Weiss family from Mosel, Germany. Graciously pulled from the winery’s library by winemaker Brian Schmidt, this wine 20+ year old was pure proof that these Rieslings can go the distance. Aged characteristics of petrol and honey greeted the nose, while the palate was still fresh and alive with high acidity. Slightly off-dry with rich honey and citrus flavors, the wine lingered for a long time.

Arrowhead Spring Vineyards, Estate Syrah 2008, Niagara Escarpment, U.S., $34.95
Arrowhead is the culmination of Duncan and Robin Ross’ dream to own a vineyard, which they launched in the early part of the previous decade.  This full-bodied, medium-tannic wine showed classic Rhone-style Syrah character with notes of meat, red fruits, spice, leather and black pepper.

Leonard Oakes Estate Winery, Vidal IceWine 2009, Niagara Escarpment, U.S., $49.95
A recent graduate (2008), Jonathan Oakes serves as viticulturist to this estate as well as winemaker for this and Schulze Vineyards and Winery. While medium-sweet on the palate, the bright acidity shines through avoiding any cloying sensations. Notes of honey, spice and apple linger in the long finish.

 

The Ageability of Riesling

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As I head to Niagara this weekend for TasteCamp North, I am reminded of a session I attended at the American Wine Society’s November 2010 Conference in Cincinnati, OH (or as I call it, the other Cin city) with David Gimbel of Vineland Estates Winery.

Established by German producer St. Urbanhoff, Vineland Estates looked to emulate the Mosel in North America. Consequently, they purchased 35 acres in the Niagara Escarpment.

The original motherblock was planted entirely to Riesling on Weiss 21B vines, which can withstand very cold temperatures. The first production was limited to three wines – dry, off-dry and ice wine Rieslings. However, today, the winery has planted other varieties and produces both red and white wines.

David’s session included a tasting of selected vintages from the past 16 years and was a wonderful opportunity to see how well Riesling can age.

Unfortunately, we all agreed that the 1996 Riesling Reserve was tired, with an oxidized character on both the nose and palate. However, it did show a developed nose of spice, dried apricot and slight citrus with more dried fruit and honey on the palate.

The 1999 Riesling Reserve was much more alive, with floral, honey and ripe apricot notes, which remained on the palate for a long time. The 2000 Riesling Reserve was developing nicely with apple peel, honey and a hint of floral while the 2005 Riesling Reserve was still fresh and ripe. Its complex palate provided just a hint of sweetness, with high acidity, peach, floral, honey and pineapple.

We then switched to tasting the Semi-Dry Riesling flight, beginning with the 1994, which showed only slight development despite the passage of 16 years. The honey, spice, apricot and dried fruit nose gave way to bright acidity, apricot, spice, and honeysuckle on the palate, culminating in long length. The 1998 was still vibrant, belying its age, with floral, citrus and peach notes, while the 2000, equally youthful, had more lime and pith flavors. The 2004 vintage was rich and intense with a developing nose redolent with spice and a palate of floral, honey, citrus and peach. While the sweetness of the older wines had faded, the 2004 was still slightly off-dry.

The session concluded with the Riesling Icewine 2000, which was medium-sweet, but beautifully balanced with acidity. Dried fruit, apricot, honey and a hint of anise in the background, long length.

At least at the time, the winery still had some of these older wines available for sale, with the Riesling Reserves priced at $30.00 and the Semi-Dry Rieslings at $25.00, while the Riesling Icewine was $55.00.