Category Archives: The Wine World

Drinking Wine in Interesting Times

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While not actually an ancient Chinese curse as it is often attributed to, the phrase “May you live in interesting times,” has been thought to be a negative condition of humankind. Well, it can’t get any more interesting than now. Our lives have been irrevocably changed as we are self-isolating, social distancing and otherwise retreating to our homes for the duration of this quarantine period.

Eric Asimov wrote a poignant piece about overcoming the stigma of drinking alone during this difficult period. I’d like to second that as well as add the need to celebrate and find the beauty in taking pleasure from small things such as the aromas and flavors of food and wine as they tickle your nose and dance on your tongue.

Here in New York City, restaurants are closed, with the exception of take-out and delivery, forcing us to eat at home, hopefully in the company of family and loved ones, but cut off from the usual social environment on-premise dining provides. On the bright side, many of these enterprising establishments are now permitted to deliver wine with your food delivery, helping you to more easily recreate the experience at home.

Others are taking advantage of stocked up kitchens and slowed down schedules to find their inner Julia Child and experiment with new recipes and new ingredients. It is definitely a time to embrace Slow Food.

These are, no doubt, interesting times, but I am trying to find the positive side as I connect more deeply and fully with my partner, reach out to friends and appreciate that I am healthy and safe. In this regard, we are cooking dinner at home, taking the time to sit down together and restoring a sense of normalcy in this topsy-turvy world.

Last night’s meal was a simple home-made pizza, starting with a store-bought cauliflower and corn flour crust, to which I added marinara sauce, mozzarella cheese, mushrooms and bell peppers. But, we elevated our experience by adding a beautiful wine from Merry Edwards Winery.


Merry Edwards herself has lived in interesting times. She first attended UC Berkeley as a graduate student studying nutrition until she was introduced to the idea of studying wine by her new-found friend, Andy Quady. Soon after, she switched her major, graduating with her master’s degree in 1973. But, despite her stellar credentials, she was repeatedly met with gender discrimination as she looked for roles as a winemaker. Thankfully, she was encouraged to persist, securing the position of winemaker at Mount Eden Vineyards and earning a reputation as an outstanding winemaker.

Among her varied accomplishments, Merry was instrumental in getting the industry to stop using lead capsules and propagating UCD clone 37 (also known as the “Merry Edwards selection”). Her struggles also ultimately led to changes at UC Davis and other institutions and opened up the world of winemaking to women.

Falling in love with Sonoma County, Merry relocated in the 1970s and conducted significant clonal research on Pinot Noir, which dramtically changed the way the industry thought about grapes. She eventually founded Merry Edwards Winery in 1997, planting the Meredith Estate vineyard the following year.

Throughout her lengthy career, Merry has continued to be a pioneer and a world-renowned winemaker. Times are interesting for sure, but now is the perfect time to be drinking Merry’s wines.

TASTING NOTES

Merry Edwards Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $36.00
Green, herbal, grassy notes greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is dry, with rich, ripe melon, pink grapefruit and slight pith, with medium+ acidity, full body and long length.

Merry Edwards Winery Pinot Noir 2017, Sonoma Coast (CA), USA, $48.00
On the nose, the wine displays aromas of cherries, cocoa and a hint of herbs, which are joined by bright, sour cherry and a leafy note on the dry palate. High acidity, with medium body and long length.


Merry Edwards Winery Meredith Estate Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00
This complex and concentrated wine offers up beautiful aromas and flavors of spice, earth, wet leaves, cherry and a hint of tomato. It has high acidity, with medium body, light tannins and very long length.

Never Say Never at Domaine Bousquet

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Growing up in a winegrowing family near Carcassonne, Anne Bousquet wanted nothing to do with the industry. It didn’t appeal to her in the least and she was determined to get an education, open up her options and pursue financial independence among other lifelong goals. No one told her resistance is futile.

In pursuit of her dreams, Anne attended college in Toulouse to study economics. During her studies, she moved to Minnesota as an exchange student in order to improve her English (and also ended up meeting her future husband – an exchange student from Spain). As a result of this experience, she was offered the opportunity to earn a master’s degree in economics, becoming an economist and eventually moving to Boston where she analyzed the wood and paper industries. Anne was very happy with her life and was doing well in her career.

During this time, her father had launched Domaine Bousquet. While most people go on vacation and bring home a crappy t-shirt 😊, Anne Bousquet’s father ended his Argentine vacation with the purchase of land. His dream was to plant one of the first vineyards in the Tupungato area. He planted his vines between 1998-2000 and produced his first wine in 2003.

With wine ready to sell, Anne’s father turned to her for assistance. Anne’s husband jumped at the chance, and, while Anne agreed, she kept her economics job to pay the bills. The two moved to Europe in the mid-2000s, introducing the European market to their organic Argentine wines. Anne and her husband attended their first ProWein in 2005 and, by 2008, Domaine Bousquet was selling 1 million bottles annually, entering the U.S. market around this time. In 2009, Anne resigned from economics altogether to devote herself full-time to the winery, moving from Europe to Tupungato. Two years later, Anne’s father retired, placing her directly in charge of production and finance, while her husband is responsible for sales.

In 2015, Anne and her family moved yet again, this time to Miami, when they decided to start their own import company. The winery presently exports 98% of its production, thanks to strong demand outside of the country, selling 4.5 million bottles annually worldwide.

From the very beginning, Domaine Bousquet has been keenly focused on organic farming, receiving its organic certification in 2005. This approach has been very important to them and has been a point of differentiation in the market. Not surprisingly, Domaine Bousquet has always been a leader in organic production in Argentina. As a Certified Organic winery, Domaine Bousquet takes this commitment very seriously. While some vineyards may ascribe to organics during favorable years and use chemicals during tough times, they are not permitted to make such adjustments if they wish to keep their organic certification.

Thankfully, the climate and terrain of Argentina and the Mendoza region (more specifically) lend themselves well to growing grapes organically. As the driest wine region in the world, Argentina’s vineyards are generally free from mold and mildew issues that require extensive spraying and intervention elsewhere. Additionally, the high altitude of Argentina’s winegrowing regions maintains acidity and crispness in the grapes and thus the resulting wines.

More recently, under Anne’s direction, Domaine Bouquet wanted to get to the next level of organic certification, especially in the U.S. Although all their wines have always had lower sulfite levels than conventional wines, they have chosen to achieve USDA Organic certification for their new Virgen wines by excluding the addition of any sulfites at all. These wines are also Certified Sustainable, Gluten-Free and Vegan Friendly (they use bentonite to fine their wines rather than egg- or fish-derived fining agents).

The first Virgen wine was a red blend (bringing together Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec), made in 2018. It sold out in three months, prompting them to increase production with the next vintage, adding a Malbec and a Cabernet Sauvignon to the lineup in addition to the original red blend.

In speaking about these new wines, Anne acknowledges that the biggest risk to the Virgen line  is temperature fluctuation during travel and stocking issues with exposure to heat. “It’s pure; it’s a naked baby.” Yet, when tasting the wine two years later, they have found it still to be fresh and clean, despite its lack of added sulfites, which generally act as a preservative and anti-oxidant.

Moreover, they want to boost production of their sparkling wines (which they produce using both the Charmat and Traditional Methods) since they can give consumers Certified Organic sparkling wines – something they can’t really get from Champagne and many other regions. And, they can scale their production to meet perceived demand, due to their 700 acres and supplemental growing contracts.

The winery’s Gaia line, named for a goddess from Greek mythology, is now available only on-premise (at restaurants / not for retail sale). Initially developed with a red blend and a white blend, it also now includes a varietal Cabernet France (a first for them) and a Malbec. Anne notes that Cabernet Franc has been gaining in popularity in the region, prompting them to craft this wine.

Finally, Anne presented us with Ameri, Domaine Bousquet’s top icon wine. As she explained, all of the wines have Anne’s name on it, so they decided to create one wine with her husband’s name – his last name is Alimeri!

All in all, despite her initial resistance, Anne has made a good life for herself and her family in the industry she swore she’d never work. And, the wines that she produces are not only well made, they are quite economic to buy. As for whether Anne’s pre-teen daughter will try to eschew the family business as her mother did, for now, she wants to be an actress or a chef. We’ll have to wait to see if her resistance is futile!

TASTING NOTES
Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose Brut NV, Tupungato, Argentina, $13.00
Produced via the Charmat Method, this blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay has a beautiful, medium salmon color and a nice mousse. The dry palate offers up refreshing acidity, ripe berries and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Chardonnay 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $18.00
Aromas of nuts, apples and pear greet the nose and persist on the tongue. On the palate, the wine is dry with good acidity and a rich, round, full body, culminating in long length.

Domaine Bousquet Virgen USDA-certified organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Tupungato, Argentina, 13.00
This is a beautifully light Cabernet Sauvignon, with medium body and light tannins. It is fresh and clean, with black fruit, a slightly leafy note and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Virgen USDA-certified organic Malbec 2019, Tupungato, Argentina, $13.00
Much more intense than its sister Cab, the Malbec is concentrated with juicy, ripe fruit of plum and blackberries with light to medium tannins, medium body and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Cabernet Franc 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $20.00
A lovely wine with good complexity of aromas and flavors including cranberry, blueberry and dried herbs. The palate provides a beautiful texture. culminating in long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Malbec 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $20.00
This wine is fresh with lush, dark red and black fruit, along with peppery, spicy notes and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Ameri 2017, Tupungato, Argentina, $36.00
Bringing together Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot and then aged in French oak for 16 months, this wine displays strength and elegance, with medium tannins, red and black fruit and long length.

Behind Big Bottles of Bordeaux

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Kicking off Women’s History Month, a group of female wine professionals descended upon New York with big bottles (3-Liters, to be specific) of Bordeaux. These rare, double-magnum sized wines were poured by the glass during the week of March 2-8 at 66 restaurants around the city. The wines and the women showcased the diversity of Bordeaux with dry and sweet whites as well as the more well-known reds.

In conjunction with this state-wide promotion of “Strong Women Make Big Bordeaux Bottles,” members of the press were invited to take a VIP wine tour to visit four restaurants featured in the event to taste the wines and meet some of the women behind the bottles: Rita Jammet, Sophie Solnicki-Thierry, Caroline Perromat and Sylvia Courselle.

Our first stop was Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, where we were introduced to Rita, who is the former owner of the esteemed (and now closed) La Caravelle restaurant. She and her husband began producing wines for the restaurant, launching first a Champagne and then a Bordeaux in 1995, which they continued making after the restaurant closed. Their small production La Caravelle wine is made from grapes sourced within the Listrac-Medoc appellation and is made only in good years. At the wine bar, sommelier André Compeyre paired her La Caravelle 2008 with Beef Bressola Croque with Comte cheese.

Next, we arrived at 701 West at the Edition Hotel in the heart of Times Square. This luxury restaurant and cocktail bar is the first and only fine dining establishment in the neighborhood and was awarded three stars from The New York Times. Among the beautifully appointed dark wood, Sophie Solnicki-Thierry of Chateau Forcas-Hosten provided us with the history of the estate. The property was previously owned by a group of Americans, but has more recently been under new ownership, which has breathed new life into the property. JF Restaurants’ Beverage Director, Amy Racine, matched her Cedres d’Hosten 2012 with braised lamb flatbread and eggplant.

Switching gears from red to white, we headed to O Ya at the ParkSouth Hotel. Here, we heard from Caroline Perromat, of Chateau de Cerons. Perromat and her husband Xavier, took over management of the family estate in 2012, situated within the tiny sub-appellation of Cerons, within the Graves area. Caroline shared that she and her husband now work together at the estate and talked about the complexity and challenges in making a white wine compared to making a red one. Her Chateau de Cerons 2017 was beautifully paired with shima aji sashimi by Chelsea Carrier, Beverage Director for the hotel.

  • La Caravelle
  • Amy Racine and Sophie Solnicki-Thierry
  • Chateau de Cerons
  • Caroline Perromat
  • Sushi at O Ya
  • Sylvie Courselle
  • Bruno Almeida

Last, but certainly not least, we joined Sylvie Courselle, from Chateau Thieuley at Tocqueville. The family-owned estate of Chateau Thieuley was initially in the hands of Francis Courselle, but when his two daughters, Sylvie and Marie, graduated with degrees in agricultural engineering and enology, it was clear that they were ready to take over the business. Today, Sylvie focuses on sales, while Marie manages the technical aspects of winemaking. Tocqueville’s sommelier, Bruno Almeida chose to show the Chateau Thieuley 2015 with gougeres and steak au poivre with bone marrow.
Beyond the female focus, there was much to learn about Bordeaux itself, which has undergone quite a transformation as of late. Today’s Bordeaux has embraced sustainability, with an aggressive agenda to shift toward organic farming, which is particularly difficult in Bordeaux’s maritime climate.

While the emphasis on indigenous grapes remains, there has been a shift from exclusively blended wines to the production of some single variety wines and a stronger promotion of dry whites, which account for 9% of total production. Moreover, the region is keenly aware of the impact of climate change, which, for the most part, has been favorable in terms of more consistent quality from vintage to vintage, but looms large as a potential threat in the future as things (literally) heat up. Accordingly, last year Bordeaux became the first French region to permit new grape varieties to be used in an effort to combat rising temperatures. There are four new red and three new white grape varieties that have been added to the list of authorized grapes.

And, while what happens in the vineyard is extremely important, the people behind the wine are equally important. In this regard, a new generation of winemakers and vineyard managers have come to the forefront of the industry. These professionals have often grown up in the region, but are much more well-traveled with experience beyond Bordeaux than their predecessors were. Consequently, they bring back diverse expertise which informs their winemaking and grape growing. And, as was evident with this campaign – many of those newcomers are female, taking on the roles of owners, winemakers, cellar masters and marketers. A new day has certainly dawned in Bordeaux and it is exciting to see what is happening.

Bodega Norton and the Love of a Good Woman

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It’s Valentine’s Day week, with the addition of the newly created Galentine’s Day and the usual backlash against this “Hallmark Holiday.” But, whether you are reaching for all things red and romantic or boycotting it altogether, there’s no denying the love that exudes from wine brand Bodega Norton, which celebrates its 125th anniversary this year.  Sharing lots of love with the New York wine press, the brand’s Chief Winemaker (David Bonomi) and Sales & Marketing Director (Santiago Galli) visited New York earlier this month as the third visit of a total of 125 to mark this momentous occasion.

Founded in 1895, Bodega Norton got its start when a British engineer, Edmund James Palmer Norton, was stationed in South America to build a rail line connecting Chile and Argentina and fell in love with an Argentine woman. Completely smitten and unwilling to leave her, he gave up his engineering career and established the winery in Mendoza, Argentina.

The winery continued to grow and flourish under the Norton family until it was purchased in 1989 by Gernot Langes-Swarovski of the Austrian crystal company. Drawn by his passion for wine, Gernot recognized the beauty and quality of Bodega Norton. To protect his investment, he sent his son, Michael Halstrick, to Argentina to lead the winery as CEO. Equally charmed as the original founder, Michael, too, met and fell in love with an Argentine woman, married her and now lives full-time in Argentina with his family, shepherding the winery towards ever-continuing excellence.

Joining Michael in his pursuit of excellence, David Bonomi has held the post as Chief Winemaker since 2014, and is only the 3rd winemaker at the winery in the past 50 years, maintaining its heritage and legacy. He had been with the company previously and his deep affection for Bodega Norton was evident as he spoke about the vineyards and wines.

Named a Top 10 South American winemaker by Decanter magazine, David was born into an Italian winemaking family (originally from Piedmont) and fell in love with wine at an early age. His first passion was viticulture, and, while he eventually studied enology as well, it is clear that he comes alive in the vineyard. With 33 years as a professional winemaker and viticulturist, David loves discovering the capabilities of new (to Argentina) varieties, such as Gruner Veltliner as well as new vineyards (in Uco Valley and Patagonia). He then crafts his interpretation of a place into wine.

Speaking about the Swarovski family, David described their arrival as a merger between Latin passion and European vision. He further noted the influence that the family’s attention to detail in the crystal business was infused into the existing culture at Bodega Norton, along with a strong emphasis on sustainability and best practices. Moreover, their commitment to quality production extends to their growers; the minimum contract is 10 years with shared investment in netting and other necessary equipment.

The winery’s five estate vineyards are all found in the foothills of the Andes Mountains, comprising a total of 1,750 planted acres that range in age from 30 to 80 years old. They are situated within Mendoza’s Lujan de Cuyo district and further delineated in a special area known as primera zona (first zone) for the quality of the grapes.

This is truly the desert, with limited water (they are limited to irrigating with snow melt from the mountains) and challenging conditions to create wine. As David explained, there are two climates here: hot and dry and, in more difficult vintages, cool and rain. But, their long-term vision keeps them going. And, that is a true labor of love!


TASTING NOTES

During the lunch celebration, we had the great fortune to taste through a selection of current wines as well as a vertical of the winery’s top wine, Gernot Langes. The Gernot Langes was first produced in 2003 and honors Bodega Norton’s current owner, Gernot Langes Swarovski. Assessing seven vintages ranging from 2006 to 2016, it was apparent that the wine is not a photocopy, but rather, it is a wine that differs from vintage to vintage. Moreover, while only the 2016 vintage is available, the exercise demonstrated the wine’s ability to age and develop with time.

Bodega Norton: 1010 Bubbles NV, Mendoza, Argentina, $13.00
Produced via a special Charmat Method to create fine bubbles and retain the fresh fruit aromas of Gruner Veltliner, the wine is bright with slight floral and citrus and pear notes, delicate mousse, long length.

Bodega Norton Reserva Malbec 2018, Luyan de Cuyo, Argentina, $19.00
Made with 100% Malbec, David now adds a small mount of fruit from the Uco Valley to the wine to give it additional complexity. It offered up notes of plums, figs, black current with a savory and leafy undercurrent. The palate displayed good acidity, with medium-firm tannins, medium+ body and long length.

Bodega Norton Privada Family Blend 2016, Luyan de Cuyo, Argentina, $22.00
Bringing together 40% Malbec (for structure) , 30% Cabernet Sauvignon (for body) and 30% Merlot (for acidity), this wine was originally kept just for the family to enjoy with friends, but has since been produced as a commercial wine.  The use of oak is very limited, so it is not overt on the palate. Notes of spice, black cherry and blackberry greet the nose. On the palate, it is more structured than Reserva Malbec, as well as richer and rounder with a smoky note in the very long finish.

Bodega Norton Gernot Langes 2016, Mendoza, Argentina, $105.00
A blend of 30% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine was aged in oak for 16 months, with an additional 14 months in bottle before release. Of the vintages we tasted, it was the freshest with an expressive, concentrated nose of black fruit, dried herbs, smoke, with good acidity, firm tannins, medium+ body, culminating in long length.

A Discovery of Riches: The Perfect Pairing of Piave DOP and Garda DOC

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This month, we heard reports of a NASA summer intern, Wolf Cukier, who discovered a new planet. Pretty heady stuff! These days, it is challenging to discover anything new under the sun. We live in a world where we’ve been there, done that and, with globalization, there is a homogenization of culture that pervades. Yet, we still treasure unique products and delight in the discovery of new finds.

Twenty years ago, in search of novel and noteworthy products to sell, Lou Di Palo, head of his family’s business, was fortunate to come across a then-unheard of Italian cheese: Piave. Bringing his new-found discovery to America (or at least to the Italian cheese and specialty shop established in 1903 by his great-grandfather, Savino Di Palo), Lou introduced New Yorkers to this wonderful artisan cheese.

Lou Di Palo

Today, Piave DOP Cheese has become a beloved staple of the American market, finding shelf space in major supermarkets as well as in specialty stores. This traditional cheese hails from the Belluno province near the northern tip of the Veneto region, amidst the Dolomite Mountains.

Historically, the area has been known for its dairy cattle since the 1700s, but as the rural economy declined in the wake of industrialization, it was the cooperative dairies that saved the industry during the 1800s. Yet, despite this lengthy history, the Piave cheese as we know it, named for the local Piave River, dates from 1960. And, more recently, the Piave Consorzio was established in 2010 to protect the brand and quality of the cheese, with an average of 300,000 wheels produced annually.

A hard, cooked, cow’s milk cheese, these cylindrical cheeses are made from fresh milk sourced solely from within the mountain province and limited to three types of cow: Italian Brown, Italian Spotted Red and Italian Friesian (aka Holstein). A special culture from the area accounts for the cheese’s characteristic taste, which is further influenced by its aging process, with flavor intensifying over time. As the cheese ages, the curd becomes darker and harder and the rind increases in thickness and color. Due to the fermentation process involved in its production, it has a low lactose content compared to some other cheeses.

With its fresh, medium, aged and extra old age designations, there are several different options available:
–Piave Fresco (20-60 days)
-Piave Mezzano (61-180 days)
-Piave Vecchio (>180 days)
-Piave Vecchio Selezione Oro (more than 12 months)
-Piave Vecchio Riserva (more than 18 months)

Regardless of your preference, the rich, nutty flavors of the cheese pair well with wine. In this regard, a recent press event hosted at Di Palo’s newest venture: C. Di Palo wine bar, showcased the pairing ability of the cheeses with the wines of
Garda Spumante DOC. These wines, named for Lake Garda and produced just 100 miles away from the Piave DOP area, offered up a fresh and effervescent option to cleanse one’s palate in between bites of cheese. Guests at the happy hour were invited to sample the Piave Mezzano and Piave Vecchio Selezione Oro in their unadulterated, delicious form, as well as a range of dishes prepared by Di Palo’s chef, utilizing both the cheeses and the wines in his recipes.

As Italy’s largest lake, Lake Garda splits its regional allegiance down the middle, with Lombardy to the west and the Veneto to the east. Here, drying breezes and the moderating influence of the lake permit the grapes to ripen sufficiently, while maintaining their bright acidity.

Established in 1996, the corresponding Garda DOC wine area encompasses the cities of Brescia, Mantua, Verona and is home to 10 appellations situated at the southern curve of the lake. It overlaps with other appellations, including the more well-known appellations (aka denominations) of Lugana, Custoza, Valpolicella, Bardolino, Soave and Valdadige.

Although the denomination permits the production of whites, rosés and reds, the core production centers on sparkling wines with 7 million bottles produced annually, with an estimated production increase to 20 million bottles in the next few years. These sparkling (aka spumante) wines may be made using either the Traditional (that used in Champagne) or Charmat (used in Prosecco production) Methods, depending upon the individual producer’s personal preferences. The white Garda DOC Spumante may use Garganega, Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano or Chardonnay, while the Rosé Garda DOC Spumante is produced from Corvina, Rondinella, Pinot Nero or Merlot. The wines range from Brut Nature (no sweetness) to Demi-Sec (dessert style) wines.

With the luscious cheese dishes served alongside the fragrant sparkling wines, it was a perfect evening of food and wine pairings. All in all, a delicious discovery and an embarrassment of riches!

C. Di Palo wine bar with its meticulous finishes. The beautifully restored sequoia wood on the bar and walls comes from a reclaimed water tower.

A Quad of Perfect Pairings from Kobrand’s Collection

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Yes, you can reach for any old beverage at the dinner table, but there is something about the way that wine creates a magical connection with food that transforms an ordinary meal into an extraordinary meal, regardless of what you are eating. It’s a unique equation of 1 + 1 = 3 that can be replicated by few other libations.

An assortment of wines from Kobrand arrived at my doorstep, each providing a wonderful opportunity to match it to a particular meal. I was admittedly encouraged to pair these wines with Christmas cookies, but Christmas came and went and frankly, I don’t eat Christmas cookies.

Most of these meals consisted of take-out, but the wines elevated these simple dishes with their presence. And, we actually were inspired to create a chorizo paella for the Barbaresco and were not disappointed.

The Seeker Riesling 2018, Mosel, Germany, SRP: $13.99
The Seeker Riesling 2018 was a wonderful accompaniment to sushi. The crisp acidity of the wine married well with the freshness of the raw fish and its luscious mouthfeel matched with the cuisine’s umami characteristic. This wine hails from mineral-rich, slate soils in Germany’s Mosel region, with grapes 100% hand-harvested. After fermentation, the wine is aged in tank and oak cask for 3 to 8 months before being bottled in lightweight glass to reduce its carbon footprint.

Tasting Note: Aromas of lime zest and flowers greet the nose. The off-dry palate offers up high acidity, balancing the wine’s slight sweetness, with lovely citrus and lime, culminating in long length.

Caposaldo Moscato NV, Provincia di Pavia IGT, Lombardy, Italy, SRP: $14.99
This wine is much sweeter than the Riesling (with residual sugar coming in at 110 g/l compared to 25.5 g/l), so it is more suited to pairing with desserts than savory food. That being said, we opened it up with Thai take-out and really enjoyed it with our mango salad. The sweetness of the wine matched the sweetness of the fruit and its low alcohol (7% abv) kept our heads clear.

Tasting Note: Produced from 100% Moscato Bianco grapes, which are handpicked from 20-year-old vines, this wine provides a fresh and lively palate balancing the sugar. Aromas and flavors of peach and Asian pear dominate, with a slight effervescence due to a secondary fermentation; long length.

Vina Montes Alpha Carmenère 2017, DO Colchagua Valley, Chile, SRP: $21.99
A burger and fries might not be a healthy dinner option, but it was certainly tasty and was a lovely foil for the Carmenere, which is blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 55% aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (a combination of 1st, 2nd and 3rd use). While not overly tannic, there were sufficient tannins to pair well with the protein the burger and the fruit-forward nature of the wine also added to the match.

Tasting Note: The nose is redolent of meatiness and earthiness, while the dry palate presents with very ripe dark red and black cherry fruit and coffee. This full-bodied wine provides good acidity, with medium-soft tannins and long length.

Michele Chiarlo Reyna Barbaresco DOCG 2015 (SRP: $49.99), Piedmont, Italy, SRP: $49.99
Eyeing this 100% Nebbiolo wine from such an esteemed region, I was anticipating an overly tannic, overly youthful wine, but was pleasantly surprised that it was showing so nicely, despite being capable of much lengthier aging. We transformed a cold winter’s night with the warmth of southern Spain, preparing our own chorizo paella, which went wonderfully with the Barbaresco.

Tasting Note: A very expressive nose of roses, cocoa, cherries, chocolate-covered cherries, slight earth/wet dirt persisted on the dry palate, along with medium+ acidity, firm tannins, medium+ body, along with a delicateness and elegance, with extremely long length.

Lini 910’s Lambrusco: New (to you) Wines to Welcome in the New Year

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My philosophy has always been that everything is better that sparkles: wine, water, diamonds and personalities. And, while I happily drink sparkling wines all year round regardless of the occasion, I am especially fixated on fizz for New Year’s Eve.

This year, I had the pleasure of tasting through an assortment of Italian sparklers from wine importer Winebow ranging from Prosecco to Franciacorta. But, it was the duo of Lambrusco wines –a rosé and a vintage-dated rosso — that commanded my attention. These two wines were produced by Lini 910, a family-owned and operated winery, which was founded in 1910 and is presently run by Fabio Lini, a member of the fourth generation.

Hailing from Central Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, Lambrusco has been made as early as the middle of the 10th century. While there are stylistic differences among the various DOCs, in general, Lambrusco is produced via the Charmat Method and the resulting wines typically display high acidity, at least some effervescence, low alcohol and fruity and floral aromas. In addition, some producers do make Traditional Method wines, which are more similar to Champagne in their production.

Overall, these wonderful wines are extremely food friendly (which makes a lot of sense given that they come from a very gastronomic-focused area – the land of Parmigiana-Reggiano, Parma ham and Balsamic vinegar. Moreover, they pair equally well with cheeses and charcuterie as well as with heartier fare.

With their festive bubbles and bold red hues, they easily transform any day into a celebration, making them an excellent alternative to Champagne and other sparklers especially as we countdown to the new decade!


TASTING NOTES

Lini 910, Lambrusco Rosé NV, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, $25.00
Typical of the region, this wine is produced by the Charmat Method, the same method used in the production of Prosecco. This process retains the fresh fruit flavors of the grapes, which are present on the nose and palate of this lovely wine. Floral, fresh herbs and ripe cherries greet the nose and persist on the palate, with medium+ body, freshness and long length.

Lini 910, Lambrusco Metodo Classico Rosso Millesimato 2006, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, $40.00
As a Metodo Classico wine, this Lambrusco was crafted using the Traditional Method, the same production technique used in Champagne, whereby the wine spends a significant amount of time in contact with the spent yeast (aka lees). Given its more complex production, this wine offered up beautiful notes of yeast, cherries and berries. The rich blackberry flavors were balanced with lively acidity and very long length.

Looking for Affordable Burgundy Bottles? Look to Elden Selections for holiday pours and gifts.

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I recently taught a wine class for the IWAGY wine club in Poughkeepsie, NY titled, “Affordable Southern Burgundy: Great Wines that Won’t Break the Bank.” While the presentation was primarily designed to introduce the audience to the lesser-known Burgundian districts of the Macon and the Cote Chalonnaise, they were eager to know about affordability.

Why? Well, it should come as no surprise to ardent wine lovers that Burgundy is often price prohibitive. As Ethan Fixell wrote in “The Hidden (Affordable) Gems of Burgundy” (1/2/2018), “There’s no gentle way to put this: Burgundy has become stupidly expensive.” And, in his NY Times article, “The Value of Burgundy, Regardless of the Price,” (May 9, 2019), Eric Asimov reinforced this sentiment, saying, “Speaking generally, Burgundy is nowadays the most coveted wine on the planet.[,]” citing the small production capacity and further noting, “The prices of Burgundy have shot upward in the last 20 years, to the point where the best wines are far beyond the means of most people.”

Asimov’s claims are backed by numbers: a Grand Cru Vineyard in the Cote d’Or that was valued at 7 million Euros in 2008 had jumped to 14 million Euros in 2018. And regional vineyards, though much cheaper (70,500 Euros/ha in 2017) are still not a bargain.

These exorbitant real estate prices, coupled with scant quantities – Burgundy production accounts for only 8.6% of all French AOP (quality) wine, 4.1% of all French production overall and only 0.6% of world production – means that it is challenging to find reasonably priced wines from the region. (Source: Vins de Bourgogne)

Burgundy has been producing wine for centuries, with its vignerons honing their craft and truly understanding the nuances of the region’s soils, climate and vineyards. Principally planted to Chardonnay (51%) and Pinot Noir (41%), these wines have become the benchmark for all others of these varieties and, not surprisingly, are highly regarded and sought after.

Yet, despite the dire outlook on overall affordability, it is possible to find more reasonably priced Burgundian wines if you know where to look. One place to check out is online e-tailer, Elden Selections. Founded in 1992 by Eleanor Garvin and Dennis Sherman, expats who have lived and worked in Burgundy for over 30 years, Elden Selections is a direct-to-consumer wine store focused almost exclusively on Burgundy. As such, it is unique in the U.S. and, equally important, they provide a wide range of Burgundian bottles from various appellations and price points within the region.

Elden offers a large selection of “everyday Burgundy” under $40.00 featuring regional and village level wines as well as those from smaller, hard to find appellations such as Irancy. And, in keeping with their desire to satisfy wine-drinking consumers, not wine collectors, the top priced wine is $300; not cheap by any means, but definitely more palatable than the staggering $1,500 or more per bottle that some rare wines can fetch.

Moreover, the wines are sourced from small quantity, minimal-intervention, farmer-made producers, rather than stocking wines from the large negociants. Having lived in the region for years, Eleanor and Dennis have strong relationships with the producers, tasting the wines multiple times to ensure quality.

Further, their site is easy to navigate, packed with educational information about the wines and their producers and permits consumers to purchase as few as one or as many wines as they wish. Case orders are shipped free of charge. Plus, they tout a no-questions-asked return policy (though, to date, no one has exercised this option).

Now is a great time to pick up a mixed case of Burgundy wines to serve with holiday dinners or to give as gifts.

Cultural Connections and the Art of Wine and Food

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I was first introduced to the new line of Ferzo wines from Codice Citra back in May. Produced from the estate-grown fruit from a collaboration of family-owned vineyards within the Chieti province of Italy’s Abruzzo region, these wines offer up great taste and value.

Specifically, the Ferzo name refers to “patches of fabric stitched together to create a sail,” and symbolizes the piecing together of numerous plots of vineyards, within the southern part of the Abruzzo region. 

The Codice Citra cooperative was founded in 1973 and focuses on local grapes such as the well-known Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo to more esoteric varieties. In addition to the Ferzo line, which made its debut into the U.S. market earlier this year, the coop’s portfolio includes three other ranges of wines (Citra, Caroso and Las Vitae.

In an effort to introduce more members of the press to this new set of wines, the winery’s importer, Winebow, hosted an unusual event at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Event guests were shepherded around the museum by Angelis Nannos of In Food We Trust, stopping at various works of art around the historic and vast buildings of the esteemed institution, all of which harkened back to humankind’s connection to food and beverages.

First on the “menu” was pickling during which Angelis regaled us of the story of St. Nicholas of Myra who saved three boys from being drowned in a pickling vat, one of the most ancient ways of preserving food that spans numerous cultures  such as Korean kimchee and Jewish pickles.

From there, we headed to the alabaster reliefs of the Assyrian Royal Court, which recount a dinner party held for 69,000+ guests! Meanwhile, the Tomb of Mektre showcased the everyday activities of ancient Egypt including baking.

We learned about New York City’s long association with oysters as illustrated by a stunning Oyster Plate from the Union Porcelain Works and then completed our tour in front of Edward Hopper’s Tables for Ladies. This painting recalls the period of history when nice women were not permitted to dine alone until some entrepreneurial restaurateurs created women-only dining establishments, which offered “Tables for Ladies.” Here, unaccompanied women could safely enjoy a meal without tarnishing their reputations. Painted during the Depression, the painting also tells the story of shows of abundance contrasted with the stark reality of the scarcity of food during this time period.

At the conclusion of our jaunt through the museum, we headed upstairs to the dining room to enjoy some actual food and wine. Among the Ferzo line, there are three whites produced from  20 year old vines  hand picked  indigenous varieties, namely: Pecorino, Cococcioloa and Passerina. These three wines are all fermented in stainless steel, ensuring that the wines are fresh and fruit forward without any oak influence. A rosato (aka rose) and a Montepulciano d’Abuzzo round out the range.

Most recently, with its emphasis on Abruzzo’s viticultural history and a strong commitment to high quality wine, Codice Citra has brought on winemaker, Ricardo Cotarella as executive enologist and partnered with Leonardo LoCascio Selections, as its exclusive U.S. importer.

TASTING NOTES
Ferzo Passerina 2017, Terre di Chieti IGT, Abruzzo, Italy, $26.00
The ancient variety of Passerina is not well known, but is on the path to rediscovery, given recent interest in the grape in Abuzzo, Umbria and Le Marche (where it is produced within the Offida DOCG). This wine has a beautiful floral and fruity nose, with flavors of white flowers, juicy pineapple, pear and tropical fruit. On the palate, it offers up bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Ferzo Pecorino 2017, Terre di Chieti IGT, Abruzzo, Italy, $26.00
With the same name as the Italian word for sheep, it is now thought that this grape gets its name from the shepherds, not the sheep, who were eating these grapes when out in the mountains. Almonds, minerality and hint of pear greet the nose. On the palate, this wine is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium+ body and is quite angular. Flavors of nuts and minerals dominate, giving the wine weight and depth, before culminating in long length.

Ferzo Cococciola 2017, Terre di Chieti IGT, Abruzzo, Italy, $26.00
The Cococciola grape is cultivated in both Abruzzo and Puglia and is frequently compared to Sauvignon Blanc. This wine offered up more fruit character than the Pecorino, with more pronounced melon, pear and citrus, a hint of waxiness on the palate and just a slight note of nuttiness. It displays nice body, good depth and long length.

Caroso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2015 , Abruzzo, Italy, $30.00
Not to be confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, this wine is produced from the Montepulciano grape, grown in the Abruzzo region. The wine was beautiful, with a rich and  fragrant nose of plums, with good acidity, integrated oak, soft tannins and long length.

Campania’s Sannio Wines Delight at Del Posto

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Although I am generally familiar with the wines of Italy’s Campania region, namely through visits to Feudi di San Gregorio and Mastroberadino, I had never heard of Sannio. Or, admittedly, if I had, it was likely memorized for a wine exam and then promptly forgotten. My mistake…and my misfortune for overlooking these wines.

Thankfully the error of my ways has been rectified, thanks to a beautiful introduction to these wines back in October. We were welcomed to a sumptuous lunch at Del Posto restaurant by Consorzio President, Dr. Libero Rillo, who provided some background on this tiny territory in the province of Benevento. But, despite its small size (~10,000 hectares), it is important to the Campania region. Here, the emphasis is on the indigenous grape varieties of Aglianico, Falanghina and others.

The Consorzio itself dates in 1999 and comprises 400 members. It overseas several denominations including Aglianico del Taburno DOCG, which produces red or rose wines, Falanghina del Sannio DOP, which is restricted to white and sparkling as well as the Sannio DOP which offers a full range of styles. An IGP Benevento or Beneventano also exists. 

The 10,000 hectares are allocated among nearly 10,000 wineries, including two cooperatives. Most are small and medium in size, producing a total of 25 million bottles annually among the IGT, DOC and DOCG designations. However, the consorzio is eager to increase its production, especially at the quality levels.

Attendees at the aforementioned press luncheon has the opportunity to explore the two vaunted denominations: Falanghina Sannio DOC and Aglianico del Tabruno DOCG, under the tutelage of Somm In the City, Sara Lehman. While the Falanghina grape has ancient roots, its name has much more modern origins thanks to the trellis poles aka “falanga” that were used to support the vines. The wine received its DOP status in 2013, and is known for its minerality, good acidity, and ability to age for 10-15 years, during which time it develops complexity. These grapes must be sourced from the hillsides where there is some elevation, which helps to avoid the humidity found on the valley floor.

The Aglianico del Tabruno DOCG harkens back to the Greeks who came to the area centuries ago, settling near Mt. Taburno. The wine’s DOCG status was bestowed in 2011 and comprises both red and rose wines. The rose, which doesn’t require any aging, is currently the only Italian rose to hold this designation level. The reds must be aged for a minimum of two years in wood and bottle, with the Riservas aged for three years in wood and another 12 months in bottle. These are powerful, tannic wines with complexity and good aging potential, known for aromas of blackberry, plum, violet and black pepper.

WHITE WINE TASTING NOTES
I deliberately limited my consumption of the Falanghinas knowing that we were going to taste a lot of reds with the seated lunch (we tasted 13 and I’ve included my notes on my 8 favorites). Accordingly, I limited my tasting to the sparkling Falanghina del Sannio DOP – V.S.Q. Brut from Cantina di Solopaca, which is one of the oldest co-ops in the area, with grapes sourced from the slopes of Mt. Taburno. It was refreshing, with good acidity and nice fruit aromas and flavors.

I also tasted the Mustilli Vigna Segreta Falanghina 2016, a wine produced from a cru vineyard known for its volcanic and limestone soils. It was rich and concentrated with good minerality and long length.

RED WINE TASTING NOTES
2018 Elena Catalano Sannio Aglianico 2018, Italy
This wine, produced solely in stainless steel, was youthful, with robust red and black fruit, firm tannins and good length.

Fattoria la Rivolta Pediarosso Taburno Sannio DOP 2018, Italy
Made from hand-harvested grapes grown on clay and volcanic soil, this wine offered up bright red fruit, lovely freshness and notes of pepper that lingered in the finish.

Cantina di Solopaca Barbera 2017, Italy
This wine is produced from 20 year old vines grown on clay and limestone soils on the slopes of Mt. Taberno, It offers up a very earthy nose, with a clay undercurrent and red fruit aromas and flavors.
  
Cautiero Sannio DOC Aglianico 2016, Italy
After moving to the city as adults, the winery’s owners returned to the countryside to pursue their love of wine and the land, choosing to focus on organic farming. The wine is tight and needs time, but displays nice black fruit and long length.

Terre Stregate Manent Sannio Aglianico 2016, Italy
This is a beautiful and balanced wine with lovely aromas and flavors of red fruit, earth and herbs, along with good structure. It spent 6-8 months aging in barriques.

Azienda Agricola Scompiglio Barbera del Sannio 2016, Italy
Lush and gorgeous on the nose and palate, this Barbera was floral in character with blueberry and blackcherry notes, lingering in the long length.

Azienda Agricola Castelle Aglianico Riserva 2015, Italy
As a Riserva-level wine, it spent the minimum three years aging in oak. It was lovely, yet tannic and will be better in time.
 
Torre del Pagus Aglianico Taburno DOCG 2013, Italy
This wine spent 12 months in oak, with another year aging in bottle before release. It was  elegant, with good structure and lots of red fruit notes.