Category Archives: Tasting Notes

Villa Massa Limoncello has freshness and versatility to spare

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When life gives you lemons…make Limoncello. At least, that was the thought shared by Stefano Massa and his brother, Sergio, as a way to protect and preserve a treasured asset of his homeland — the Sorrento Oval Lemon. This lemon has been recognized for its high quality and received Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status in 2000 under EU regulations. Cultivated in the Sorrento area since the Middle Ages, the Sorrento Oval Lemon was originally brought to the Amalfi Coast in the Middle Ages as a way to prevent scurvy.

In 1991, Stefano and Sergio developed a special technique to extract the essential oils found in the lemon peels to create a high quality, standardized product of Limoncello that could be brought to the market. Previously, many Italians made their own Limoncello at home as did the Massa family. In fact, Stefano and Sergio returned to the family recipe that had been handed down for generations to create their product.

Unlike many of its competitors, Villa Massa Limoncelllo uses only this special lemon, inflused in pure alcohol for a minimum of three days and then blended with water and sugar and nothing else — no colors, no artificial flavors and no preservatives. The result is a liqueur that exudes the freshness of lemons, with the acidity beautifully balanced with sufficient sweetness.

When enjoyed on its own, the liqueur should be served cold and the bottle has been conveniently designed to fit in the freezer. However, the Villa Massa Limoncello is versatile as a mixer as well as a cooking ingredient. Try it with sparkling wine in place of orange juice or mix it with tonic water for pre-dinner cocktail. It can also replace rum in baking recipes or be used as a marinade component.

The Villa Massa Limoncello is available in 375 ml ($16.99 SRP) and in 750 ml ($27.99 SRP) sizes and can be found at a number of local wine shops.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Where the Streets Have No Name (April 2010)

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Has spring sprung? Writing in mid-March, it certainly feels like it. After a brutal winter, we are itching to get out on the road again and breathe in the fresh air of wine country. A vicarious visit awaits you in our newsletter this month as we explore the numerically-named routes found within the wine regions of Napa, the North Fork, Paso Robles and Santa Barbara. 

Less vicariously, we invite you to hit the road, Jack (or Jill), and head east for our fun and festive wine and chocolate pairing event, held in conjunction with our next-door-neighbor, Macari Vineyards, and Chokola’j. Learn about Sex, Wine & Chocolate when Tracy will jointly present with relationship coach and sex educator, Marcia Baczynski and Susan Kennedy, co-founder of Chokola’j. Join us April 24, 2010 (this is a date change from what was previously announced) from 3:00-5:00 PM; $45.00/person. Kindly RSVP to Kimberly Grimmer at Macari via e-mail or phone (631-298-0100). 

If a trip out east is too far to go, you can catch Tracy in her NYU class, Italian Wines–From North to South, on five consecutive Tuesdays from 6:45-8:45 PM, beginning May 18. Register through NYU now. 

We are also thrilled to announce the launch of Tracy’s new website: It’s a Winederful Life, where she will endeavor to share her tales of “living la vida vino.” 

Drink wisely and well, 

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE 

CEO: Chief Education Officer 

and 

Jared Michael Skolnick 

COO: Cork Opening Officer 

———————————— 

WHERE THE STREETS HAVE NO NAME 

Given that wine regions don’t start out as full-blown wine regions, the touristy wine trails that eventually spring up frequently don’t have idyllic, wine-themed names for the roads and routes that bring visitors from tasting room to tasting room. Rather, the main drag that winds its way past winery after winery is more often like the U2 song – a place “where the streets have no name,” bearing instead the number of the local highway or route. 

While you might have been advised to ‘get your kicks on Route 66,’ those visiting the Napa Valley will be best off if they stick to the parallel wine trails along Route 29 and the Silverado Trail. The former is considered to be the more bustling and trafficked than the latter, but both are home to wonderful wineries lining the roads from Carneros to Calistoga. The highway of Route 29 has lent its “no name” to Vineyard 29, which released its first vintage in 1992. In 2000, Vineyard 29 was acquired by Chuck and Anne McMinn, who subsequently expanded the single vineyard into a full-scale winery, known primarily for its Cabernet Sauvignons. 

Across the country on the North Fork of Long Island, the two parallel roads are Route 25 (aka Main Road) and Route 48 (aka as both “the North Road” and Sound Avenue). Here, the climate is dramatically different – maritime vs. Mediterranean, but the wine trail has also served as inspiration for the eponymously named Vineyard 48. Originally Bidwell Vineyards, Vineyard 48 took on its new name in 2005 when the Sicilian-born, Rose Pipia purchased the property. Over the past 5 years, significant investments in the vineyard and winery have been made and today, the winery is known for its well-crafted wines. 

Back in California, visitors to Paso Robles should travel along Route 46, which meanders past many of the wineries located in Paso Robles West, and then, after crossing Highway 101, takes you along the east side of the region. On the west side of town, the vineyards and winery of Tablas Creek Vineyard are located a little over 8 miles north of Route 46. Founded by the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel in France’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape and wine importer, Robert Haas, Tablas Creek creates Rhone-style wines – both single varietal and blends – following organic viticultural practices. 

Still further south, California’s Santa Barbara County is home to a diverse wine region spanning from the Santa Maria Valley to Santa Barbara proper. With its unique microclimate, wineries nestled in the Santa Rita Hills specialize in the Burgundian varieties of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and are found along Highway 246. Here, vineyard manager and winemaker, Wes Hagen tends to the vines grown at Clos Pepe, adhering to sustaintable agricultural methods, including the use of a flock of sheep to assist with weeding. 


TASTING NOTES 

  

Clos Pepe, Vigneron Select Pinot Noir 2007, Santa Rita Hills, CA, $54.00
Although an appointment is required, it is well worth the effort to travel to this unique property. Wes will greet you himself, providing you with a personal tour of the vineyards, followed by a tasting in his parents’ beautiful home. On the nose, this wine has aromas of cherry, berry, dust and slight oak. Medium-bodied, with vibrant acidity, the wine shows flavors of strawberry, vanilla and a hint of oak, along with minerality in the long finish.

Road 31, Pinot Noir 2006, Napa Valley, CA, $38.00
Owner and winemaker Kent Fortner’s parents both grew up on family farms in rural Kansas, not far from Road 31, a route he has traversed in his 1966 Ford pick-up truck too many times to count. With cranberry, floral and herbal aromas, this medium-bodied wine is dry with medium acidity and bright fruit flavors of raspberry, cranberry and a hint of baking spice.

Tablas Creek Vineyard, Cote de Tablas Blanc 2008, Paso Robles, CA, $25.00
This blend of 42% Viognier, 26% Roussanne, 21% Marsanne and 11% Grenache Blanc is pressed and fermented in stainless steel to preserve the fresh fruit flavors of the wine. Floral and citrus aromas are joined on the palate by minerality, spice and tropical fruit flavors that persist throughout the wine’s long length.

Vineyard 29, CRU Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $54.00
With grapes sourced from throughout the Napa Valley, the Cru Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in French oak for 18 months, 50% of which was new oak. Aromas of red and black fruits and floral notes greet the nose, while ripe blackberry, spice, smoke, oak enliven the palate, culminating in medium+ length.

Vineyard 29, Estate Cabernet Franc 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $140.00
The Cabernet Franc grapes for this wine hail from the original property, planted in 2000, and, while initially planted to be blended in with the Cabernet Sauvignon, were found to produce a wonderful wine all on their own. The 2007 saw 20 months in French oak, 90% of which was new, with 146 cases produced. Black fruit, oak and herbal aromas are found on both the nose and palate, along with a hint of spice and noticeable, but ripe, tannins. 

 

 

How’you doing…Luna?

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Luna Vineyards Pinot Grigio 2007, Napa Valley, CA

I think this catch phrase is an amalgamtion of a line from Friends (so eloquently recited by Joey) and the name of an internet company that was subsequently purchased by Google, but somehow it has stuck in our household. All of this by way of an introduction to Luna Vineyards in Napa Valley, CA, owned by Mike Moone and George Vare.

Luna Vineyards Pinot Grigio 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $18.00
Winemaking: 95% Pinot Grigio, 5% Chardonnay; 20% fermented in neutral French oak barrels, 30% underwent malolactic fermentation
Aromas: Citrus, floral, hint of stone, slight yeast
Flavors: Orange, citrus zest
Structure: Medium+ acidity, medium-bodied, medium alcohol, medium+ length
Conclusion: Good fruit concentration, with nice aromas, but more limited complexity on the palate.

 

Luna Vineyards Sangiovese 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $25.00
Winemaking: 90% Sangiovese, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petite Sirah; Aged for 12 months in 25% new French oak barrels.
Aromas: Cherry, oak, spice, tomato leaf
Flavors: Rich, concentrated fruit – cherry, tomato, spice and oak
Structure: Medium-high acidity, medium-bodied, medium alcohol and medium length.
Conclusion: A good quality wine, ready to drink now.

 

March Madness: Go with Big Reds to cheer on Cornell tonight!

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If you have been following the NCAA tournament, aka March Madness, this year, you will have noted that there have been a number of upsets. Admittedly, I don’t really care about basketball, but one of these upsets caught my attention. It is with great alumna pride that I will root for Cornell when they take on Kentucky at the Carrier Dome tonight.

While I won’t be trekking to Syracuse or heading out to a local bar to watch the game, I do plan to celebrate this exciting moment in Cornell’s athletic history with a toast at 10:00 PM when the game starts (technically it starts at 9:57 PM, which makes no sense to me, but in case you plan to watch, I wouldn’t want you to miss a minute or three).

So what to drink on such an occasion? A big red, of course! No puny Pinot Noirs tonight. Instead, I’m going to reach for something big, bold and brash.

Ottimino’s Zinfinity, which I recently drank courtesy of a sample I received, would be a good option. The wine is a blend of 93% Zinfandel, 7% Petite Sirah and spent 20 months in French oak. Its youthful aromas included spice, oak, blueberry and blackberry. The rich, ripe fruit dominated the palate, but was balanced by the acidity, sweet, ripe tannins and flavors of spice, vanilla, oak and smoke.
Ottimino, Zinfinity Zinfandel 2006, Sonoma County, CA (USA), $17.00 SRP

Of course, there are a myriad of other options such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah/Shiraz or Malbec to fit this bill if you choose to go the varietal route, but Amarone, Barolo and Barbaresco would work equally well, should your palate and pocketbook be a bit more sophisticated. Either way, may the best team win and by that I mean, Go Big Red!

Navarra Wine

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Yesterday I attended the Navarra wine tasting event at the W Hotel near Union Square. The event featured 20 different producers from this Spanish wine region. While Navarra sits just to the north of the famed Rioja region, it is only becoming known internationally now. It shares some of Rioja’s winemaking heritage and many of the same grapes are planted in both places. However, Navarra has established itself as a modern winemaking region, emphasizing international grapes — Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon — and an international style of production.

Among its more well-received wines, Navarra produces some lovely roses made from the Garnacha grape (also known as Grenache). These fresh and fruity roses are sturdy enough to pair with food, but light enough to enjoy on their own.

Wine for your Valentine – sparkling rose options for all budgets

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Valentine’s Day is less than a week away so scoring a great table before midnight at a top restaurant probably isn’t a feasible proposition at this point. However, planning a romantic evening at home is still well within reach and a wonderful way to celebrate with the one you love.

While pairing any wine with your meal would be fine, a few options lend themselves to the spirit of this holiday. More specifically, a sparkling rose adds to the mood with both its beautiful pink hue and effervescent quality.

Barefoot Bubbly has newly released is its Rose Cuvée. At $10.00/bottle, you can open it anytime, but it can easily add to the atmosphere of a Valentine’s Day dinner, leaving you plenty of money to splurge on fancy food. Despite its low price point, this sparkler is quite nice, with notes of floral, raspberry, cherry and cotton candy on the off-dry palate. This hint of sweetness makes it a good partner with spicy cuisine or as an aperitif to kick-off your meal.  NB: A list of local retailers selling this wine is provided below.

Or, let your love for one another shine through with the sparkle of Champagne in a romantic hue by choosing Ayala Rosé “Majeur” NV, Champagne, France ($50.00), which only recently returned to the U.S., although the house was established in 1860. With an elegant bouquet of fresh red fruits, the wine is dry with crisp acidity and raspberry and toast and is suitable as an aperitif, but can just as easily carry you through the meal and could even accompany light, fruit-based desserts. You can taste a free glass of Ayala Champagne at participating wine stores from February 11 to 14, 2010.

To cap off the evening on a sweet note, open a bottle of Castello Banfi, Rosa Regale, Brachetto d’Acqui, 2008, Piedmont, Italy ($19.95). This is an unusual Italian sparkler made from the red Brachetto grape, which provides a lovely hue of deep rose in your glass, evocative of Valentine’s Day. With wonderful berry and floral aromas on the nose, this medium sweet wine bursts with raspberries on the palate and its sweetness is tempered by its elegant bubbles. At a low alcohol of 7.0%, it won’t add to your lethargy after a long meal, making it the perfect accompaniment with dessert. Morrell & Company will present a series of free sparkling wine tastings this week (Tuesday through Friday), with the Banfi Rosa Regale available on Wednesday, joined by Banfi’s co-CEO Cristina Mariani-May. All tastings will run 3:30-6:30 PM.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Cellar Stockers IV (December 2009)

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‘Tis the season to be jolly and what better way to celebrate the season than with the gift of wine. Accordingly, our annual gift-giving guide returns this month to help you find the perfect gift for everyone on your list.

Beyond the bottle, a gift certificate from Grand Cru Classes is the gift that always fits. Purchase seats to a public class, provide them with wine consulting services or offer them the gift of a private wine event. Certificates are elegantly packaged with a set of wine charms and can be sent directly to you or the recipient (your choice).

For a very unique opportunity, why not treat someone in your life to a special winemaking series with Grand Cru Classes and Jim Waters, owner and winemaker at Waters Crest Winery? Details will be sent out separately as soon as they are available.

If you find yourself entertaining for the holidays and want to throw a wine-themed party, we still have a few dates available. Call or e-mail us for a quote.

Hosting on a smaller scale? Let us make your life easier with our wine shopping services. Simply provide us with your wine budget, number of guests expected and any themes or preferences and we’ll create the perfect wine list for your event, arrange for delivery and design customized tasting sheets and information on each wine, all for a flat fee of $175.00.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

CELLAR STOCKERS IV

The holidays bring a flurry of parties and visits with friends and family. Don’t arrive empty-handed. Instead, reach for a festive sparkler that sets the tone and is sure to please: Juve y Camps, Reserva de la Familia 2004, Catalonia, Spain, $13.00. 

Hosting at home? Appeal to their green side with an organic wine (from Washington State’s first Certified Organic vineyard) that not only tastes great, but is also great for the environment with Badger Mountain Vineyards Pure White 2007, Columbia Valley, WA ($22.00 -3L box).

Show your parents you appreciate them with a wine from the year you were born. Check out a vintage chart to see what wines were ageworthy and are still drinking well; then, turn to a store that carries older vintages to find that special bottle. If this proves to be too much of a challenge, consider an elegant Italian wine: Scavino, Barolo Carobric 2004, Piedmont, Italy, $75.00.

You might be less enamored with your in-laws (or maybe not), but don’t let it show, by sending them world-class Chablis from a stellar vintage: Joseph Drouhin Domaine de Vaudon, Vaudesir Grand Cru 2008, Chablis, France, $72.00.

If you’ve made a new acquaintance, take this time to let them know you care with a fresh, fruit-forward white wine that isn’t among the usual suspects: Treana, Proprietary White 2007, Paso Robles, CA, $17.00.

Thank your best friend for being there for you all year long. Toast your friendship with a voluptuous Pinot Noir: Brooks, “Janus” Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley, OR, $35.00.

Finally, let your love for one another shine through with the sparkle of Champagne in a romantic hue by choosing a classic rosé option: Ayala Rosé “Majeur” NV, Champagne, France $60.00.

See the Tasting Notes section for detailed notes on the above wines.

Tasting Notes

Juve y Camps, Reserva de la Familia 2004, Catalonia, Spain, $13.00
This family-owned winery is located in the heartland of the Penedes region – San Sadurni d’Anoia. Produced from a traditional blend of Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo, the intense nose presents with notes of yeast, citrus and mineral, with rich flavors of citrus and yeast on the round and creamy palate. 

Badger Mountain Vineyards Pure White 2007, Columbia Valley, WA, $22.00 -3L box
A blend of Semillon, Muller-Thurgau and Sauvignon Blanc, this wine has a wonderfully floral nose, but is dry on the palate with citrus and tropical fruit notes. With no sulfites or other preservatives added, the winemaking is organic as well. Packaged in environmentally friendly cardboard, this box contains the equivalent of 4 bottles of wine with a vastly reduced carbon footprint due to its lower weight, yet, once opened, will remain fresh for weeks.

Scavino, Barolo Carobric 2004, Piedmont, Italy, $75.00
A beautiful Barolo from highly respected winemaker Enrico Scavino, this wine has a very floral nose. The palate consists of black fruits – mostly dark berries – with continued floral notes, dried herbs and firm tannins, culminating in long length. 

Joseph Drouhin Domaine de Vaudon, Vaudesir Grand Cru 2008, Chablis, France, $72.00
This wine has pronounced minerality, damp earth, bruised apple and a slight woody note on the nose, all of which re-appeared on the rich palate and remained throughout the exceedingly long finish. 

Treana, Proprietary White 2007, Paso Robles, CA, $17.00
A 50-50 blend of Marsanne and Viognier (both Rhone Valley varietals), this wine is dry with very ripe, tropical fruit aromas. On the palate, pineapple and an undercurrent of stone persist throughout the medium length. 

Brooks, “Janus” Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley, OR, $35.00
A relatively complex wine for the price with vibrant acidity and very lush fruit, this palate shows raspberry, cherry, violet and slight herbal notes. 

Ayala Rosé “Majeur” NV, Champagne, France $60.00.
Although Champagne house Ayala was established in 1860, its wines only recently returned to the U.S. With an elegant bouquet of fresh red fruits, the wine is dry with crisp acidity and raspberry and toast and is suitable as an aperitif, but can just as easily carry you through the meal and could even accompany light, fruit-based desserts.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Where the Bargains Are…Revisited (November 2009)

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Wow, Fall seems to be literally flying by as Grand Cru Classes completes a whirlwind of projects in October and November. Among our many endeavors, we are thrilled to be providing staff training to the esteemed Four Seasons Restaurant in Manhattan and for Park Place Wines in tony East Hampton.

In between preparing custom training materials and introducing dozens of people to the world of wine, Tracy has had her nose in the books as she studied for Year 1 (of 3) of the American Wine Society’s Wine Judging Certification program. An educational session and Year 1 exam were presented at the annual conference held in Destin, Florida earlier this month. She also “appeared” on Heritage Radio Network’s At the Root of It with Erin Fitzpatrick for the October 27 episode.

November marks the end of our public class sessions in Mattituck for 2009, so if you wish to take a class with us this season, please check our schedule and sign up. Public classes will resume in May. However, private events may be booked with us all year.

In fact, as the allure of the holiday season comes upon us, why not consider a special wine tasting or wine and cheese event in place of your usual holiday party? With years of event planning experience, we can provide you with an elegant affair that your guests will fondly remember.

Beyond entertaining, Grand Cru Classes offers beautifully-packaged gift certificates. Give the gift of a public wine class, a private wine event or consultation services for wine shopping or developing a wine cellar. To make your gift even more special, all gift certificates purchased between now and December 31 will be sent with a set of handmade wine charms.

Finally, if you need to stock up on break-resistant, crystal stemware, now is the time. These glasses also make great gifts. Our next order with Schott-Zweisel will be placed by November 30th. Please contact us directly to receive a catalog of style choices and pricing.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

WHERE THE BUYS ARE…REVISITED

A recent study, commissioned by Italian wine producer Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, revealed interesting differences between Italian and U.S. wine consumers. It seems that Italian wine drinkers are more focused on quality and thus, continue to buy wine at the same quality levels as previously during this economic downturn. However, they are buying fewer bottles. Conversely, according to a Nielsen Group study, during this recession, Americans are drinking in the same quantities, but have adjusted the price point of their purchases. Accordingly, if one used to buy wine in the $15-$20 range, that same consumer is likely now buying wines in the $10-$15 price bracket. With this in mind, we turn our attention to tips and tricks for finding where the bargains are.

Lesser-known Neighbors
In wine, as in real estate, it’s all about location, location, location. With the popularity of key grape varieties, wine regions or both, the price of these wines escalates. Meanwhile, wines that hail from “the wrong side of the tracks” can offer consumers great value. More specifically, if you enjoy the crisp acidity, citrus aromas and flavors and minerality of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé from France’s Loire Valley, look to the villages of Quincy, Reuilly and Menetou-Salon for similarly styled wines at lower price points. The vaunted Sauternes of Bordeaux is prized for its botrytis-affected dessert wines, but the favorable conditions that exist to create these wines are not confined to this single area. Wines from satellite communes Loupiac, Cadillac, Cerons and Ste. Croix du Mont may not have the same longevity, but will provide better bang for your buck for early consumption.

Know thy Vintage and/or Producer
Scaling back on your Burgundy purchases? Generic appellations (AC Bourgogne vs. AC Gevry-Chambertin) from well-regarded négociants (such as Latour, Drouhin and Jadot) will provide good quality wines less expensively. Other Burgundian options are to seek out wines from districts other than the famed Côtes de Nuits and Côtes de Beaune (collectively known as the Côte d’Or) – Côte Chalonnaise offers good Pinot Noirs while Macon, especially Pouilly-Fuissé) is regarded for its Chardonnays. Bordeaux is all about vintage, so choose lesser known producers in great years (2000, 2003, 2005) or search out better producers in “shadow vintages,” those years that got lost in the hoopla of better rated vintages (i.e., 2001 and 2004), for more reasonable options.

Where the Buys Are 2009
Still considered up and coming, Chilean wines are seeing significant improvement in their quality while still being available at the lower end of the market. In particular, Sauvignon Blanc from Leyda and Carmenere from the Maule Valley are terrific choices. Finally, don’t overlook Long Island. While often thought to be expensive wines, a recent blind tasting of Long Island wines pitted against their international peers found that not only did the wines compare favorably on the palate, they usually much less expensive than the competition.

Tasting Notes

Cascina Ca’Rossa, Roero Arneis «Merica» 2008, Piedmont, Italy, $14.95
This wine is made from the Arneis grape, which is indigenous to the Piedmont region, located in northwestern Italy. On the nose, there are aromas of floral, almond and honey. On the palate, flavors of lime, almond, straw and honey linger throughout the long length. 

Pierre Sparr, Selection Series Riesling 2008, Alsace, France, $14.00
As with most Alsatian wines, this one is varietally correct, truly showing off Riesling’s peach and citrus aromas and flavors. The palate is dry with high acidity and medium length. 

Channing Daughters, Scuttlehole Chardonnay 2008, The Hamptons, $16.00
This unoaked Chardonnay held its own when blind tasted amidst wines from Chablis and Pouilly-Fuissé. Youthful aromas of floral, mineral and lime persist on the palate and are joined by lemon and stone. Crisp acidity and concentrated fruit are balanced by its full body.

Château Teyssier, St. Emilion Grand Cru 2006, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
Aromas of black fruit and molasses greet the nose. The palate is dry with medium acidty and medium tannins, along with flavors of blackberry, coffee, and spice. 

Casas Patronales, Carmenere Reserva 2008, Maule Valley, Chile, $10.00
This producer’s Reserva wines spend 6 months aged in oak, but the wines are not overly oaky. The Carmenere is dry with medium body and medium acidity. Its palate is spicy with red fruits/raspberry and slight earth flavors culminating in medium+ length.

Industria Argentina – authentic Argentine cuisine in the heart of NYC

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If  you are looking for authentic Argentinean food, look no further than Industria Argentina, located  in TriBeCa. Opened in 2005, the restaurant boasts beautiful design and decor, all of which was imported from Argentina, including the artwork that adorns the walls and the planks on the hardwood floors. Of course, Chef Natalia Machado was also imported. She hails from Buenos Aires, but having spent her summers in Ushuaia, she counted the penguins along the beach among her pets/playmates as a child. Industria Argentina recently hosted a series of special dinners paired with wines from Argentine producer, Finca Flichman. With both culinary school and significant professional cooking experience, Natalia brings her heritage to the kitchen, serving up regional specialties from north to south, which was reflected in the four-course menu. Drawing from Argentina’s melding of Spain, Italy and England, the cuisine incorporated a myriad of traditions, but was all expertly executed. Situated at the southern tip of the South American continent, the waters off the coast of Ushuaia are quite cold, similar to those off the coast of Alaska, and provide fertile fishing ground. Fished from these waters, the first course consisted of pan-seared sea scallops, served over smoked almond pesto and tomato compote. The pesto was a lovely, fresh accompaniment to the earthy tomatoes and seared scallops. Picking up on the smokey and earthy note, an oaked, full-bodied Chardonnay matched nicely.
Finca Flichman Chardonnay Roble 2008, Mendoza, Argentina
Notes of apple, spice and slight oak, full-bodied, medium acidity. A hearty stew of slow braised lamb and pumpkins, joined by Andean corn and peach chutney, followed the scallops. Served in a jack-be-little pumpkin, the dish was visually stunning as well as delicious. It paired beautifully with a Reserve Malbec, which was well-balanced and elegant on the palate.
Finca Flichman Malbec Reserva 2007, Mendoza, Argentina
Aromas of blackberry, blueberry, spice and oak persist on the palate with long length. Grilled rib eye steak, with mixed potatoes and chimichurri sauce (homemade and available at the restaurant for $6.00/jar) came next. The steak was well prepared, but the potatoes seemed to steal all of the praise, with many of the diners clearing their plates. An Argentine blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with firm tannins and concentrated fruit complimented the steak.
Finca Flichman Paisaje de Tupungato 2006, Mendoza, Argentina
Smoke, black fruits and herbal notes dominate the nose and palate with medium+ tannins. The dessert course featured a traditional dish of candied pumpkin, Zapallos en Almibar. The pumpkins are treated with lime (calcium carbonate, not the citrus fruit), which draws out the moisture and heightens the flavors. The dried pumpkin is then caramelized in simple syrup. A dry, sparkling wine helped to cleanse the palate between bites of the extremely sweet dessert.
Finca Flichman Extra Brut NV, Mendoza, Argentina
Citrus and mineral notes with high acidity. For more info: 
Industria Argentina
329 Greenwich St
New York, NY 10013-3318
(212) 965-8560
Appetizers average $12.00; Entrees range from 18.00-28.00 for single dishes, $42.00-52.00 for two.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Taming of the Brew (October 2009)

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Several years ago, we visited my parents at their home in Ashland, Oregon and had the opportunity to attend their town’s renowned Shakespeare Festival where we saw Taming of the Shrew. While Petruchio worked hard to “tame” Katherina, vintners in Cahors, France have put their energies toward taming the tannins in their wines.

Here at home, Tracy hopes that taming of her students will not be necessary as she begins teaching WSET Intermediate Certificate at the International Wine Center later this month. She completed an intensive teacher training program with the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET) in August and is now ready to hit the ground running.

Jared has been equally busy, completing Murray’s Cheese Boot Camp in late September, which entailed 15 hours of intensive cheese study over three days. All told, he consumed about three pounds of cheese while tasting through over 65 samples.

Both our wine and cheese knowledge are being well-utilized by clients this month as we provide training in French wines for the crew of a private yacht and present a special “Welcome to Long Island” wine and cheese party for a wedding on Shelter Island.

We are also delighted to announce that we were featured in Edible East End’s High Summer issue: To Drink, Perchance to Teach.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

TAMING OF THE BREW

“‘They have tamed the tannins.'” Such was the pronouncement from Elin McCoy, noted wine writer and author, at a tasting event launching the Cahors campaign in the U.S. Traditionally known for extremely tight and tannic wines, Cahors, situated in Southwest France, was called “the black wine” in the 13th century. However, as McCoy explained, today’s wines are much more approachable with less tannic grip than the wines of old. 

The tiny village of Cahors is home to only 5,000 inhabitants, but boasts two UNESCO heritage sites – Valentré Bridge and Cathédrale Saint-Étienne. There are 430 growers producing AOC Cahors, all of which is red and produced with a minimum of 70% Malbec, which hails from this region despite Argentina’s market dominance with this grape. The terrain is divided among the plateau, slope and valley, with grapes from the various parcels blended together to create deeper complexity.

Present day wines can be grouped into one of three wine styles: intense and complex (100% Malbec); feisty and powerful (85-100% Malbec) and tender and fruity (70-85% Malbec). Not surprisingly, the more expensive wines tend to fall into the first category. However these wines still represent good value with the majority of them ranging from $10.00 to $20.00. At this price point, the wines offer ataste of their origin and are really quite interesting, giving the consumer great wines for the price. 

Cahors typically display aromas and flavors of black fruits, such as blackberry and blueberry, and hints of mushrooms (with age). They also show some minerality and finish with fresh acidity and firm, but ripe, tannins. Compared to Argentine Malbecs, Cahors wines are less fruit-driven and retain more elegance with lighter, less jammy aromas and flavors. These wines are food friendly and pair well with local cuisines – notably truffles, foie gras and cassoulet, but could just as easily complement barbecue fare, grilled meats and game. 

Located not too far from Bordeaux, the regions share the same climate and annual weather patterns. Consequently, the two mirror each other in terms of vintage quality and variation. In great vintages such as 2005 and 2008, the wines are capable of ageing well with as much as 10-15 years of cellaring. Less stellar years provide an opportunity to drink the wines young.

As part of the campaign to promote these wines, a special Cahors glass (the only region with its own official stemware) and special bottle were commissioned. The Cahors glass has a ring in the stem, which permits one to place their fingers in it when holding the glass.

Tasting Notes

TENDER & FRUITY
Château Croze de Pys, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $10.00
Aromas of plum and blackberry greet the nose of this 100% Malbec wine. With an attractive freshness and good fruit, the palate offers vibrant acidity and firm tannins along with notes of blackberry and slight earth. 

Château Les Croisille, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $12.00
Blended with approximately 15% Merlot, this deep ruby wine has black fruit aromas. Blackberry and herbal, spice, savory and olive, well-balanced with long length. 

FEISTY & POWERFUL
Château La Caminade, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $21.00
A pronounced nose of smoke, bramble fruit and a hint of savory leaps from the glass. Similarly, the wine is powerful on the palate, with deep and rich flavors of blackcherry, herbal, wood/oak and earth, coupled with firm, but ripe tannins, 

INTENSE & COMPLEX
Château de Haute-Serre, Cahors 2004, Cahors, France, $18.00
Made from 100% Malbec, black fruits, spice and pepper notes fill the nose. However, on the palate, the wine is brighter, showing raspberry, earth and gamey flavors. 

Domaine Cosse Masionneuve, « Les Laquets » Cahors 2004, Cahors, France, $45.00
Proprietors Mathieu Cosse and Catherine Maisonneuve started their small domaine in 1999 and make their wines as naturally as possible, practicing biodynamic principles. Nearly opaque, the wine shows mineral/flint notes along with floral and blueberry aromas. On the palate, lush fruit flavors of blackcherry and blackberry are joined by vanilla and hints of stone and herbal.