Category Archives: Sparkling Wine

Parlare Prosecco Superiore

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About to embark on my fifth trip to Italy in three years, I felt it was imperative to be able to say more than the five words I had previously memorized to be polite. So, I enrolled in a language class appropriately called the Traveler’s Survival Kit, which focused on important vocabulary such as that needed to ask directions and check into a hotel.

Of course, the most crucial phrase I taught myself was “Sorry, but I have studied to speak Italian for only four weeks,” and practiced it numerous times before I headed out of town. Not surprisingly, I used it in nearly every conversation I had upon my arrival in Italy. With its multiple repetition came fluidity and ease and soon I was sounding very Italian, earning repeated compliments…at least for that one minute.

My survival kit kept me in good stead for most of the trip, especially when coupled with an abbreviated game of charades in an attempt to be understood. Yet, while the majority of folks spoke at least some English, I found myself in a few situations where this was not the case. I generally grasped most of the conversation, but admittedly missed a few phrases and simply nodded along. It’s possible that I may have inadvertently said yes to something I didn’t mean to, but, I am confident that I didn’t receive any marriage proposals along my journey.

My trip was nearly complete when I had the opportunity to meet with Francesco Drusian, a Prosecco Superiore producer. Francesco met me at the Castello di San Salvatore (the “villa” of the Vino in Villa event) in order to bring me to his winery in Valdobbiadene. We waited for the tram to take us from the castle courtyard to the parking lot and quickly exhausted the few relevant phrases I knew since I was not about to ask Francesco for a hotel room or an order of pasta. Unfortunately, Francesco didn’t speak English at all, so he asked me if I spoke French to which I replied “oui. “

Shortly thereafter, we were in his car headed to the winery—a full 30 minutes away. Possibly the longest 30 minutes of my life. Did I mention that I studied French in junior high and high school (both of which were very far away from the minutes I spent sitting in Francesco’s car)? Shifting gears, my beautiful Italian phrases were replaced with rusty French, jumbled with the occasional Italian word and I now sounded like Sgt. Deux-Deux of the Pink Panther and Friends’ The Inspector cartoons…”Si, I mean, ‘Oui.'”

We finally arrived at the Drusian estate and I (inwardly) breathed a sigh of relief. It wouldn’t be too much longer until we’d be occupied with tasting through the wines and his colleague, Anna Maria, who did speak English, was due to show at any moment.

Pulling the wines from the refrigerator, Francesco apologized for the wines being too cold and so we waited a bit to let them warm up. We eventually began with Prosecco Superiore Brut, which had a very floral nose and is fresh on the palate with ripe peach flavors. His Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry displayed a heady aroma of white flowers and just a hint of sweetness with floral and mineral notes.

By now, Anna Maria had appeared and we made each other’s acquaintance, while continuing with the tasting. The Millisimato 2011 was similarly floral and mineral on both the nose and palate, along with pear. Labeled as Dry, the wine was quite clean and very balanced despite its 20 g/l of residual sugar.

Although among the mid-level tier of Prosecco Superiore producers in terms of overall production size, Drusian is among the largest landholders in the vaunted Cartizze area – Prosecco Superiore’s cru vineyard. As expected, Drusian’s top wine was extremely elegant showing with mineral and pear drop characteristics dominating the palate before culminating in long length.

With the tasting completed, I was given a quick tour of the winery and then we were off to dinner. It turned out that Anna Maria used to work at the winery, but now manages Althe’a, an agriturismo property owned by Francesco. I rode with Anna Maria, which was a much more relaxing trip than the earlier one (simply due to the lack of a language barrier), as we sped toward Colline di Soligo.

The farm is home to a beautifully restored stone house with farm country décor throughout the guest rooms and restaurant. We entered the dining room and were seated immediately (it certainly helps to arrive with the owner). As good hosts, Francesco and Anna Maria were keen to ensure that I enjoyed every course even when they chose to skip it themselves; I was the sole eater of both the pasta course and dessert. And, since they were unwilling to provide guidance on one appetizer over another, I was strong-armed into trying two.

For the main course, Anna Maria and I split a steak courtesy of one of the cattle raised on the farm, which we paired with one of Francesco’s non-Prosecco wines – a red blend from the newly promoted Colli di Conegliano DOCG. I chose Italian cheesecake for the aforementioned dessert, which was served warm on a bed of chocolate sauce and with which Francesco insisted that I try one of the local passito (dried grape) dessert wines.

As the evening faded into night, Francesco excused himself and bid me au revoir and Ciao! as he headed home to his family. I finished my cake, had a few more sips of the Torchiato di Fregona and saw the finish line looming in the distance. But, just then, Anna Maria remembered that they had experimented with making a limoncello flavored with herbs and another glass was brought to the table and filled. I took a few obligatory sips and, at last, it was time to go.

By this point, I was quite tired, but very satiated and, had been reminded that while we may speak different languages, whether English, Italian, French or otherwise, the language of food and wine is universal!

It’s the Yeast We Can Do (Grand Cru Grapevine: July 2012)

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The tiny, single-celled fungi (I’ll spare you the bad joke) known as yeast are responsible for creating wine; without them, it would merely be grape juice. Simply put, the yeast consumes glucose and fructose in grapes, converting the sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The resulting product is much more complex and interesting than if the yeast had not intervened (thanks yeast!). These organisms exist throughout nature and are found on the skins of grapes (not a bad place to hang out if you’re looking for a free lunch), among other places.

Brought together in this manner, the initial discovery of fermented beverages was most likely an accident, but yeast are one of the oldest domesticated organisms (although admittedly not as cute as dogs) with humankind having used it for thousands of years. More recently, the commercial production of yeast has a 100 year old history with today’s winemakers having the luxury of ordering any number of cultured yeast strains from a catalog to achieve their desired effect. In fact, a chart on Winemaker magazine’s website suggests which yeast products are best for which styles of wine.

Yet, despite these modern conveniences, many winemakers are going native. In Canada’s Niagara-on-the-Lake region, Hillebrand Winery gifted us with yellow t-shirts emblazoned in green with the slogan “Take a Walk on the Wild Side” on the front and hailing their Wild Ferment Showcase Chardonnay 2009 and Showcase Sauvignon Blanc 2010 wines on the back. Stateside, the Hamptons-based Channing Daughters has produced its L’Enfant Sauvage Chardonnay, made entirely with native yeast, since 2001, while Janet Myers of Napa’s Franciscan Estate makes the similarly produced Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay.

Why the emphasis on these minute details? Does it make a difference or is all about the hype? Not only is Myers adamant that it matters, but she continues to make various batches of Chardonnay using both cultured and non-cultured yeast each year, which are then blind-tasted to determine which one is the best. And, every year, she finds that the wine produced with natural yeast wins out. For Shane C. Welch, President and Founder of Sixpoint Craft Ales, the use of natural vs. cultured yeast is the difference between a live performance and a studio album.

But, using wild yeast may not always be the best course of action. Myers admits that in some cases, especially with red wines, the result is less pronounced while further explaining that she finds it produces a different (unwanted) style with Sauvignon Blanc. Accordingly, the extra time and attention necessary to use wild yeast fermentation is limited to her Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay; all other Franciscan wines are made with cultured yeast. Myers is also quick to point out that she has the benefit of having a microbiologist on staff that can observe, smell and analyze what’s going on and make adjustments as needed. Tracy’s tales of producing L’Enfant Sauvage sound dicier, with some ferments taking almost a full year to complete.

Whether brought on by ambient populations of yeast or those of the cultured variety, the finished products of fermentation – wine, beer, bread – are made all the better for their actions. Accordingly, we have much for which to thank the yeast. If the yeast could talk, they might be heard to respond, “It’s the yeast we can do.”

Channing Daughters L’Enfant Sauvage, The Hamptons, NY, $35.00
Although we have not tasted the recent release of this wine (2009), we hosted a wine dinner featuring the L’Enfant Sauvage from vintages 2001 through 2008. While the older wines did display some oxidative characteristics, this added richness and complexity and confirmed the ageability of these wines. Citrus and apple were the most common aroma and flavor descriptors in my various notes, accompanied by some slight oak and spice, along with good acidity.

Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Dry 2010, Hungary, $15.00
While likely more famous for its sweet and luscious botrytized wines, Tokaji (pronounced to-keye) winemakers also make dry whites. This one is a blend of 85% Furmint, 10% Harslevelu and 5% Muscat, 20% of which has been aged in oak barrels for six months. Notes of apple and canned peaches greet the nose and persist on the medium-bodied palate.

Franciscan Estate Cuvée Sauvage 2009, Carneros, Napa Valley, CA, $40.00
The result of using wild yeast for this wine is worth the effort, with its complexity of aromas of yeast, apple, and wet stone. On the palate, it has vibrant acidity, full body, flavors of yeast, toothpick, apple, and lemon, culminating in long length. Crisp and complex.

Lucien Albrecht Blanc de Blancs Crémant d’Alsace Brut NV, Alsace, France, $20.00
Traditional method sparklers such as France’s Champagne and crémants owe their charm to not just one, but two fermentations, along with lengthy contact between the wine and the dead yeast (aka autolysis). As a blanc de blancs (white from whites), this wine is a blend of 80% Pinot Auxerrois, 10% Pinot Blanc and 10% Chardonnay and shows aromas of yeast and toast, joined by apple peel and ripe citrus on the fresh and elegant palate.

Masi Agricola Bonacosta Valpolicella Classico 2010, Veneto, Italy, $14.00
If you’re craving red wine despite the heat, this light-bodied, low tannin blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara from the foot of the hillside vineyards in the Classico zone just might do the trick. Bursting with vibrant, fresh cherries, it can be enjoyed with a slight chill and paired nicely with oven-roasted Portabella mushrooms and eggplant.

Wine with the Vanderbilts (Grand Cru Grapevine: May 2012)

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America’s most visited winery isn’t in Napa. It isn’t even in California. Rather, with 600,000 guests annually, the imposing Biltmore Estate can be found in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Asheville, NC. With its driveway measured not in feet, but in miles (glad I don’t have to shovel it), the 1895 mansion was ahead of its time with electric lighting and an elevator and continues to be forward-thinking in its emphasis on being a self-sustaining estate. As part of these efforts, the on-premise dairy was replaced with a winery in 1985.

In 1997, a belated honeymoon included a visit to the Biltmore, along with a tour and tasting at the winery (in fact, our first winery visit as a couple). By design, our arrival coincided with the Flower Festival, which spanned the full weekend and entailed a myriad of events held at the immense estate. Our attendance at such events meant that our rental car became well acquainted with the lengthy driveway, but each time that the “house” came into view, it took our breath away. Coupled with the lush landscape and numerous gardens designed by Frederick Law Olmstead (of Central Park fame), we departed Asheville with fond memories.

Thus, it was with some delight that I accepted an invitation to meet with Biltmore Estate’s winemaker at a recent lunch in New York City. As you might imagine, growing grapes in North Carolina is not an easy task. The humid climate wreaks havoc in the vineyard, encouraging the growth of mildew and healthy grapes at harvest are not a given. Yet, despite these less than favorable conditions, Bernard DeLille has made wine at the Biltmore Estate for over 25 years.

The Burgundy-trained winemaker responded to an advertisement in 1986, intrigued by the opportunity to make wine in the U.S. Although he was working in Madiran and Jurançon (both in southwest France) at the time, DeLille welcomed the opportunity to produce wines without the rigid constraints of France’s appellation system. Accordingly, he packed up his wife, two children and their belongings and headed to North Carolina to begin his new position. Joining the staff under the direction of Philippe Jourdain, by 1991, he was promoted to the position of winemaker.

Given the challenges that North Carolinian viticulture presents, Biltmore Estate now sources grapes from California for many of its wines. In order to comply with U.S. regulations, wine production takes place in California as well. However, the estate vineyards have not been abandoned; DeLille will continue to make wines at home as well. In this regard, consumers can choose from two Blanc de blanc sparklers – one from North Carolina and the other from Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. Two still Chardonnays are also similarly produced (Sonoma County and North Carolina). Not surprisingly, their red wine production centers on California.

This new approach to winemaking has provided DeLille with many rewards. Yet, he admits that it can be complicated to keep up with the need to make wine in two different facilities, separated by an entire continent. But, on the whole, DeLille seems to have taken well to the balancing act required. I wish I could say the same of the restaurant’s servers. In clearing the flutes and white wine stemware, both DeLille and I were the recipients of a Chardonnay shower. Luckily, as a veteran journalist, I was wearing black and was consequently, soggy, but not visably stained.

All in all, it was a nice reintroduction to these wines and I appreciated the changes being made in expanding the Biltmore Estate’s range of wines. The new wines should be available in the New York market soon and I would encourage you to seek them out. Or, even better, go join the other 600,000 guests and taste the wines at the estate. It’s truly a great way to spend the weekend!

Biltmore Estate Château Reserve Blanc de Blancs Brut 2008, North Carolina, $30.00
Produced from 100% Chardonnay grapes, this sparkling wine is made in the Traditional Method and receives 12-16 months of lees aging, yielding yeasty, toasty, apple and floral notes on the nose and palate.

Biltmore Estate Blanc de Blancs Brut 2007, California, $25.00
While produced similarly to its North Carolina sister, this sparkler’s grapes are sourced from the Russian River Valley and it spends 18-24 months on the lees. A more pronounced nose offers up riper fruit with apple and pear aromas. On the palate, some yeasty character is evident, but this wine is less toasty and more fruit forward than the other.

Biltmore Reserve Chardonnay 2010, Sonoma County (CA), $20.00
As an unoaked Chardonnay, this wine is all about pure fruit, showing aromas and flavors of pear, apple and citus. Bone dry on the palate with vibrant acidity and a full body, it is an excellent dining partner.

Biltmore Reserve Chardonnay 2010, North Carolina, $15.00
In contrast, this wine is fermented in French and American barrels and approximately 50% of the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation (sharper malic acid is converted to the softer and creamier lactic acid). The nose is rich and buttery with apple notes, while the palate offers apple and a hint of oak.

Biltmore Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Alexander Valley (CA), $20.00
A varietally-correct, California Cab, this wine shows lots of black fruit and slight herbal notes, with moderate tannins, balanced acidity and good length.

Make Mine Spumante (Grand Cru Grapevine: December 2011)

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While France and Champagne are frequently the standard bearers for sparkling wines, Italy is not to be outdone in this regard. In fact, Italian sparklers run the gamut from light and lively quaffers to complex, yeast-aged wines and everything in between. Although many Italian appellations include the provision, “May be spumante (sparkling),” in their regulations, the best examples are usually those that come from the designated fizz regions such as Trento, Franciacorta, Moscato d’Asti, Asti, Prosecco and Brachetto d’Acquis. With this broad selection of sparkling wines, one is sure to find the perfect Italian sparkler with which to toast the holiday season and beyond.

Rivaling the yeasty, toasty character of Champagne, Italy’s Trento and Franciacorta appellations offer similar aromas and flavors in these Traditional Method wines. During the dawn of the 20th century, Giulio Ferrari was intrigued with the quality of France’s sparkling wines and went to study in Montpelier to learn how to make them. He returned to his hometown in Trentino and set about creating his wine. In 1952, he sold the company to the Lunelli family which has continued to maintain the high standards set by Ferrari. Produced identically to Champagne, these wines rely almost exclusively on Chardonnay, with the occasional use of Pinot Noir. Today, other producers in the area also ascribe to these standards, which were codified in 1993 with the creation of the Metodo Classico Trento DOC, the first Italian appellation for a sparkling wine. These wines must undergo a secondary fermentation in the bottle, with a minimum of 15 months aging on the lees.

Italy’s Lombardy region is home to Franciacorta, which is also produced using the same, time-consuming Traditional Method of sparkling wine production as that used in Champagne. However, beyond its reliance on Champagne’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, Franciacorta also includes Pinot Gris and Pinot Bianco in its recipe, if the producer so desires. In 1995, Franciacorta was established as a DOCG (Italy’s highest appellation level), with regulations requiring a minimum of two years aging before release, of which 18 months must include contact with the lees. Franciacorta’s vintage wines are those which have been aged for 37 months be in contact with the yeast, while rosés must contain at least 15% Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir). The specially labeled Franciacorta Satèn must be produced solely from white grapes, specifically Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, and at a reduced pressure of 4.5 bars instead of 6.

For a more aromatic and less expensive option, look to Prosecco to fill your glass. In general, Proseccos are vibrant and fruity, exhibiting the aromatic characteristics of the Glera grape. Produced via the Italian (aka Charmat) method of sparkling wine production, the floral and fruit aromas and flavors are retained, rather than masked through the use of stainless steel and minimal contact with yeast/lees (unlike the Traditional method). Meant to be drunk young, the wines are increasingly being vintage-dated (most were previously non-vintaged) to provide the consumer with more information. In 2009, the appellation was promoted to DOCG status, with production limited to the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene.

Toward the end of the meal, turn to Piedmont for sweet-style sparklers. Here, the Moscato (Muscat) grape is known for producing aromatic wines that are available in lightly sparkling (frizzante) and fully sparkling (spumante) versions. The sweet and grapey Moscato d’Asti DOCG and Asti DOCG both have low alcohol, light body and fragrant floral notes, making them the perfect accompaniment to fruit-based desserts. Although both are produced from the same grape variety and in the same region, the former wine has a higher sugar content, lower alcohol level and fewer atmospheres of pressure, which accounts for the use of a regular wine bottle. In comparison, the Asti is fully sparkling at an average 7% abv, with a gentle froth on the palate. For chocolate desserts, try Brachetto d’Acquis. Made with the red Brachetto grape, this Piemontese sparkling wine offers up raspberry and strawberry aromas and flavors, coupled with soft sweetness on the palate.

Ca’ del Bosco, Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige NV, Lombardy, Italy, $50.00
Considered to be one of the top producers in Franciacorta, Ca’ del Bosco was established in 1968 by Maurizio Zanella. A blend of 75% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Nero and 10% Pinot Bianco, this full-bodied wine has been bottle aged for a minimum of 28 months with rich, toasty notes on the nose and palate. A slight nuttiness lingers in the long finish.

Ferrari, Giulio Ferrari Riserva 2001 Trentino, Italy, $100.00
Produced from a single vineyard of 15 year old vines, this special cuvée is named for founder Giulio Ferrari with wines aged for a minimum of 10 years on the lees. These beautifully rich wines are capable of great aging as evidenced by the complexity revealed in a tasting of the 1986, 1995, 1997, 2000 and 2001 vintages. The company also makes its vintage-dated Perlé in a blanc de blancs (100% Chardonnay) and a rosé (80% Pinot Nero and 20% Chardonnay), in addition to their non-vintage brut ($25.00) and rosé ($37.00) wines.

Peri, Talento Brut Millesimato Metodo Classico 2007, Lombardy, Italy, $30.00
Although this 100% Chardonnay sparkler is produced near the Franciacorta appellation, it is done so under the broader geographical appellation of Montenetto di Brescia. Produced using the Traditional Method, the wine showed some yeasty notes along with citrus and apple on the palate.

Bel Canto di Bellussi, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Extra Dry, Veneto, Italy, $13.00
Purchased by the Martellozzo family in 1993, Belllusi is presently run by Enrico, the third generation in his family to work in the wine business. With a fine perlage, this wine displays red apple and floral notes on both the nose and palate. Off-dry and light, it is quite elegant.

Ricossa, Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy, $15.00
The Ricossa Antica Casa winery dates to the 1800s when it was founded by Lorenzo Ricossa. This wine has pronounced aromas of floral, peach and honey on the nose. Its sweet palate offers fresh peaches, grapes and honey before finishing cleanly.

Campania in a Glass

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The scent of freshly fermenting grapes pervaded the air. We had arrived in Avellino early on a Saturday morning and were warmly welcomed by Eliana at Mastroberardino. Harvest had just begun and things were in full swing at the winery.

Eliana showed us through the cellars where we admired large botti maturing the next generation of Taurasi. These oak vessels are much larger than the typical barrel (225 l) and impart less wood influence on the finished wine due to the limited surface area compared to the voume of wine.

Almost more art gallery than aging room, the ceilings of the cellars are adorned with beautiful frescos commissioned by Mastroberardino to depict wine-related scenes such as the marriage of Bacchus. After this tour, we watched a brief video on the winery and its history, and then Eliana brought us to the wine cellar. Again, artistic elements decorated the room, which housed old bottles of Mastroberardino wines, including bottles from 1928.

We paused to admire current bottles for sale in the winery’s retail shop before heading to Mastroberardino’s resort, Mirabella, about 30 minutes away.

Following Eliana’s Fiat in our own car, we drove through small towns and took in the view of vineyards we passed along the way. Here, we noted interesting trellising techniques with the vines trained very high.

As we pulled into Mirabella, we saw the lovely facade of the main building, but continued to drive a bit further onto the property so that we could view the vineyards, golf course — a tournament was underway during our visit, and pool house.

Reluctantly, we willed ourselves away from the staggering beauty of the hillside vines, and headed in to lunch in the main dining room. We were treated to a multi-course meal, paired with the exquisite Mastroberardino wines. Each delicious course was joined with at least one wine, all of which complemented the food. Finally, we enjoyed a few last bites of dessert and then espresso before saying our goodbyes and thank yous to Eliana.

Our next stop was Feudi di San Gregorio, which is situated in the opposite direction, near Irpina. Upon our arrival at Feudi, we were greeted by Emanuela who served as our guide for the remainder of the day.

The on-again, off-again rain let up just enough to permit us to wander through the hanging gardens before we walked over to the crush pad. A new load of grapes had just arrived and the lugs were being lifted off the truck, setting things in motion.

The tour of Feudi’s cellars included views of their pupitres (riddling racks), botti, barrels and a special creche. We were briefly permitted to enter the actual winery, but the winemaker quickly shooed us out for fear that we might be overcome by the carbon dioxide seeping from the fermentation tanks.

Emanuela then brought us to a modern part of the winery, which housed its retail/wine bar area and a place for us to sit and taste their wines. We started with their sparkling wines, which were really lovely. Unfortunately, these wines are not exported to the U.S., so you’re restricted to enjoying them in Italy (although there are worse places to be restricted to be). The tasting continued with Feudi’s still wines.

Overall, the tastings provided strong evidence as to why these two wineries are so highly regarded. Standouts at Mastroberadino included the Falanghina, showing mineral, herbal and citrus notes on both the nose and palate, and the Radici Taurasi Riserva 2004, which displayed perfume, oak, vanilla, smoke, berries and other dark fruit flavors. My favorites at Feudi were its full-bodied Cutizzi Greco di Tufo with stone, spice and apple aromas and the Piano di Montevergine Taurasi Riserva 2002 with floral, black fruit, licorice and long length.

 

HARVEST East End Wine Salon – Mad about Merlot

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The second annual HARVEST East End – wine auction and celebration of Long Island’s wines – took place this month (September 2011). Kicking off on September 3, wine salons were held at various wineries and other locations for three Saturdays, culminating in the Festival Tasting on the evening of September 17, immediately followed by the Havest Moon Gala at The Ludlow Farm.

As we neared our destination, signage directed us not only to Ludlow Farm, but also to the corn maze. We thought that was an interesting idea, but, in fact, the festival walk-around tasting took place under several tents, away from husks of corn. While the wineries were not hidden among the maize, we did manage to miss a few.

Prior to the main festivities, Grand Cru Classes was pleased to sponsor this year’s event once again by hosting one of the wine salons. Accordingly, on September 10, I presented my Mad about Merlot class, with a twist. The class is usually comprised of 5 or 6 Merlots from around the world, permitting attendees to compare and contrast the aromas, flavors and structure of Merlot wines from a wide range of terroirs. However, given that the salon was part of a celebration of Long Island, the wine selection was restricted to Merlots from the East End. Of course, the term “restricted” is quite a misnomer as the line-up proved to be even more diverse than usual.

Starting with Pugliese’s deep red-hued sparkling wine, the session presented participants with an overview of this much-maligned grape, while lauding its virtues both on Long Island and elsewhere. Next, attention shifted to a blanc de noirs — a white wine crafted from a red grape — with Lieb’s Merlot Blanc. If tasted under different circumstances (i.e. you didn’t know you were only drinking Merlots), it would be easy to mistake it for a Sauvignon Blanc. Adding back some color, attendees then tasted Croteaux’s rosé produced from Merlot clone #314 from St. Emilion. The rosé was followed by a wine created by members of the L.I. Merlot Alliance, all of whom provide a barrel of their Merlot for the annual project. While the Merliance wine was from a recent vintage (2008), the other straight Merlot (from Lenz Winery) hailed from the 2001 vintage, showed some beautiful development and inspired a McCall beef dinner later that night. Finally, guests were treated to Channing Daughters’ Madeira-style Merlot called Pazzo (which translates as mad or crazy in Italian).

Who knew Merlot, and Long Island Merlot at that, could be so varied? If anyone says they don’t like Merlot, they have to be kidding. With five completely different styles of wine, one would be hard pressed not to find at least one to their liking.

  • Pugliese Vineyards, Sparkling Merlot 2003, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA
  • Lieb Family Cellars, Merlot Blanc 2010, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA*
  • Croteaux, Merlot 314 Rosé 2010, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA
  • Long Island Merlot Alliance, Merliance 2008, Long Island (NY), USA*
  • Lenz Winery, Estate Merlot 2001, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA
  • Channing Daughters, Pazzo 2004, The Hamptons (NY), USA *

*With gratitude to the producers for their gracious generosity.

In A New York State of Mind Revisited: The Hudson Valley

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Phyllis Feder of Clinton Vineyards

A relative hop, skip and a jump from New York City, the Hudson Valley wine region is much closer to Manhattan, but much less well known than its northerly neighbor, the Finger Lakes. Yet, this region actually boasts a longer history, with America’s oldest winery—Brotherhood Winery, which was established in 1839—located within its borders. Corresponding with the Hudson River Valley National Heritage Area map, this large region can be divided into three areas – Lower Hudson Valley, Mid-Hudson Valley and Upper Hudson Valley. Possessing neither the lake influence of the Finger Lakes, nor the maritime climate of Long Island, the Hudson Valley is cooler and thus, more conducive to cold-hardy European varieties and French-American hybrids, both of which are planted there. Despite its age, the Hudson River Region AVA has seen much of its growth in the past decade, with many of its wineries only a few years old. Accordingly, the region has a few well established wineries, but most are still getting their bearings.

A Modern-Day Veuve
The widowed, Mrs. Cliquot (aka Veuve Cliquot) took over the family Champagne house upon the death of her husband. Similarly, in 2009, Phyllis Rich Feder said goodbye to her husband, Ben, but not to the winery he had spent his life building. Today, she diligently keeps his vision alive, continuing to craft high quality, Traditional Method sparkling wines, along with several dessert wines, including an award-winning cassis. The Bronx-born Ben bought the property in 1969, but didn’t plant grapes until 1974, a decision further reinforced by New York’s Farm Winery Act in 1976. After studying in France at Bollinger in 1980, Ben learned to produce wines using the same techniques as those used in Champagne, but chose to focus on French hybrid, Seyval Blanc rather than the usual suspects (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier). Phyllis remains dedicated not only to Clinton Vineyards, but also to the New York State wine industry, serving on board of the New York Grape and Wine Foundation.

Driven to Succeed
As an undergraduate at Fordham University, Matthew Spaccarelli used to shuttle students between the Manhattan and Bronx campuses, but an early September day found him driving a group of journalists to the Hudson Valley. While you might think that he is a professional cabbie, Matthew is actually the winemaker and general manager for Benmarl Winery. Having purchased Benmarl in 2006, the Spaccarelli family is new to the world of wine, but is no stranger to the region. When Matthew was a child, his family lived locally on an acre and a half of land that abutted a state park. He and his brother would depart early in the day with a sleeve of chocolate chip cookies, not to return again until dinner. These childhood treks instilled a love of the land in Matthew, which is evident as he talks about the new vineyards that are planned. Although he studied Political Science, he has spent several harvests in Mendoza, Argentina as a cellar rat, relegated to managing pump-overs as much due to his inexperience as due to his broken Spanish. However, his limited knowledge is clearly not an obstacle as a barrel tasting of wines from the 2010 vintage shows.

Defying Gravity
Steve Osborn prides himself on his winery’s sustainable practices. Active with Cornell’s sustainability study, the winery seeks to minimize its environmental impact and, to that end, Scott has installed a solar photovoltaic array on the winery’s roof. In addition, the winery was designed to take advantage of natural cooling, having been constructed in a hillside. Utilizing gravity flow production, Stoutridge’s winemaking practices are non-interventionist with none of the wines ever filtered or fined. Accordingly, all wines are only available at the winery due to this lack of processing and more fragile state of the wines. In 2009, Stoutridge added a distillery, thereby expanding its range of products.

Bee Mine
Beekeeper Ray Tousey fell in love with Clinton Vineyard’s Cassis and went about creating his own version with the addition of honey to balance out the tartness of the black currants. After branching out into other wines, he realized that he didn’t enjoy winemaking nearly as much as beekeeping. So, a quick call to his daughter and son-in-law, Kimberly and Ben Peacock, brought the pair home from England and to the helm of the family operation. Today, Ray and his partners can turn their attention to bees and other projects as Ben serves as manager of the winery.

Beyond wine, the area is also home to farmstead cheese producers and several distilleries including Harvest Spirits, producer of CORE Vodka and other apple-based spirits, and bourbon-producer, Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery.

 

TASTING NOTES

Benmarl Winery, Slate Hill White NV, Hudson Valley (NY), USA, $18.00
The Slate Hill (a translation of Benmarl) White is a blend of Chardonnay, Riesling and Traminette. With high acidty, this dry wine has floral, citrus and bitter almond notes.

Clinton Vineyards, Jubliee NV, Hudson Valley (NY), USA, $30.00
Produced entirely from Seyval Blanc, this fully sparkling wine is made using the Traditional Method and is topped off with minimal dosage, resulting in a relatively dry wine. The nose is a mix of yeast and brioche, while the palate also includes apple peel and citrus.

Hudson-Chatham Winery, Chelois 2008, Hudson Valley (NY), USA, $22.00
Chelois is a French hybrid developed during the phylloxera epidemic as a replacement for Pinot Noir. Fortunately, Pinot Noir didn’t disappear, but equally fortunate is the development of this grape variety. Earthy and leafy with red fruit, this wine is vaguely reminiscent of Pinot Noir, but with a slightly foxy note.

Stoutridge, Gravitas 2008, Hudson Valley (NY), USA, $24.00
This wine is a blend of locally-grown, red grapes—Frontenc, de Chaunac and Cabernet Franc—which come together to create a dry wine with aromas and flavors of wet leaves, herbal characteristics and red berries.

Tousey Winery, Cabernet Franc 2010, Hudson Valley (NY), USA, $22.00
The grapes for this wine are purchased from Oak Summit Vineyards, which limits its own wine production to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The wine showed spice and plum aromas, which were joined by wet earth and mushroom on the palate.

Whitecliff Vineyard, Awosting White NV, Hudson Valley (NY), USA, $13.00
Among the more veteran members of the region, husband and wife team, Michael Migliore and Yancey Stanforth-Migliore, founded Whitecliff Vineyards twelve years ago. Referred to as a Hudson Heritage White, their Awosting White is a blend of Seyval Blanc and Vignoles and will be the first hybrid wine served at The Gramercy Tavern. Aromas of floral and grapefruit greet the nose, while the palate is slightly off-dry, but with vibrant acidity and beautiful balance.

Morrell: The Wine Bar with the Stellar Cellar

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Given its position steps away from Rockefeller Center, you’d be forgiven for thinking that Morrell Wine Bar is just for tourists. Sure, its location is attractive to out-of-towners visiting NBC Studios (or, the tree, at Christmas), but the bar also draws wine celebs, such as author Leslie Sbrocco and her publicist Kristen Green, and other afficiandos with its stellar cellar.

In this regard, Morrell’s offers 125 wines by the glass and 800 by the bottle. By-the-glass options range from the easy-drinking, Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontés 2010 from Argentina at $9.00/glass to more serious options such as the Kistler, “Les Noisetiers,” 2009 from Sonoma Mountain at $30.00.

The overall wine list, as well as the featured flights, changes weekly as wines are sold out and new ones are added.

Moreover, their “Best of the Best” flight provides an opportunity to taste highly allocated, cult wines not available elsewhere. For example, on a recent visit, the line-up included Peter Michael ‘Belle Côte’ Chardonnay 2009, Château d’Esclans “Garrus” Rosé 2009, Marcassin Three Sisters Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006, Joseph Phelps Insignia 2006 and Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino 2006.

Unfortunately, this special flight is off the menu for a few weeks, but will return the day after Labor Day through Thanksgiving. Although these wines are available to order by the glass, the $99.00 flight is an amazing value compared to purchasing the wines by the glass on their own (each is about $40.00/glass).

Situated next door to its sister establishment, Morrell’s retail store works in close concert with the bar. With the chance to try before you buy, patrons can sample by the glass prior to splashing out on a full bottle or case.

Both off-premise and on-premise lists are managed by Morrell’s wine buyer, Jean Reilly, a newly minted MW with a penchant for Pinot and sky-diving. When buying wine, Jean always keeps the customer in mind. For example, she notes that she sometimes comes across wines that don’t suit her particular taste, but looks past that and tries to focus on the quality and how well that wine represents a particular style.  Jean further adds, “Retailing is very competitive and as a buyer, I feel like I have to keep my eye on the customer 24/7.”

Additionally, Jean explains that wines that pair well with food are also a big emphasis of hers. She acknowledges that wine pairing has become more challenging with many of the current trends in food, such as the chiles that pop up in unexpected places or fruit-based sauces on a main course. In response, she has shifted her attention to reds with little to no tannin to compliment this type of cuisine. More specifically, Jean has introduced several New Zealand Pinots and a red from the Jura region of France at the Morrell Wine Bar, both of which have proven to be fabulous partners for the bar’s food.

On nice days, take advantage of the coveted outdoor dining or sit inside either at a table or the bar. Beyond beverages, the food is inventive and fresh. Roasted red beets are served with crème fraiche, while a salad combines roasted peaches with fennel and a triple-cream Pierre Robert. The seasonal menu makes it just as easy to order dinner as it is to eat more lightly with its small and shared plates. And, local ingredients are sourced whenever possible; a current menu item is accented with honey made on a midtown roof-top.

Open seven days a week, the kitchen and bar begin at 11:30 AM Monday through Saturday, with food available until 10:00 PM and beverages until 11:00 PM. A truncated schedule is presented on Sundays with brunch and drinks served from 12:00-4:00 PM.

Morrell’s frequently offers classes and special events at both the store and bar. On Fridays from now through Labor Day, in-store tastings and Wine Bar promotions will showcase Champagne, with representatives from the wineries on hand to answer questions.

August 19, 2011
Goerg Champagne store tasting from 4:00-6:00 PM and Wine Bar tasting from 6:00-7:00 PM*

August 29, 2011
Roederer Champagne store tasting from 4:00-6:00 PM and Wine Bar tasting from 6:00-7:00 PM*

*Two-for-one flutes of select Champagne will be also available after 7:00 PM.

JBF Chefs and Champagne – Out of the kitchen, but still in the heat

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Martha Stewart, Emeril Lagasse, Pascal and Susan Ungaro

It was hot or, perhaps more accurately, as Matthew Broderick quipped in Biloxi Blues, “It was Africa hot.” Of course, that would be acceptable if we were in Africa, but as we were in The Hamptons, it was less so. Much less so. But despite the record-breaking heat index, chefs and event goers soldiered on and had a wonderful time at The James Beard Foundation (JBF)’s annual Chefs & Champagne event.

Arriving early, we availed ourselves of the Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d’Or 1999 and, glass in hand, set off in search of the best bites. We kicked it off with Richard Grenamyer of Jacksonville, FL’s The Blue Fish Restaurant and Oyster Bar. His soy and ginger-glazed tuna with wakame and wasabi cream provided a touch of heat, which went beautifully with the Champagne as did Marc Forgione’s Chile lobster with local corn and lemon verbena.

Among the notable chefs and their corresponding cuisine was Shea Gallante of Ciano with his yellow Basinga tomato gazpacho soup with Maine lobster, watermelon and basil. This dish was amazingly tasty and refreshing, providing welcome respite in the heat. I asked him if he had consulted the Farmer’s Almanac before submitting his menu, but he explained that previous experiences with these types of events had taught him to stick to cold food.

Perhaps braver for braving the heat, John Doherty, formerly with the Waldorf=Astoria and now ambassador for Certified Angus Beef, offered prime steak and eggs, but didn’t seem too wilted at the grill.

Pitching in to help colleague Spencer Minch (Emeril’s Delmonico), event honoree Emeril Lagasse himself handed me a plate of gulf white shrimp with traditional rémoulade.

Another JBF Award Winner, Marcus Samuelsson (Blue Parrot and Red Rooster) doled out chilled corn soup with marinated bass and tomatillo-cilantro purée, which was a definite crowd pleaser.

A few pastry chefs were also on hand, including Jennifer McCoy of Craft, whose olive oil cake with raspberry-lavender jam was the perfect ending to the evening, with its lightness and combination of savory and sweet.

As part of The James Beard Foundation’s scholarship fundraising event, three scholarships were awarded to local students, including the Christian Wölffer Scholarship, particularly poignant since the event was held at the eponymous winery in Sagaponak, NY. Next year, the JBF will offer a $5,000 scholarship in Emeril’s name.

Avoid regret, attend JBF’s Chefs and Champagne

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On his deathbed, John Maynard Keynes, English economist, uttered these last words, “My only regret in life is that I did not drink more Champagne.” Such regret can easily be avoided.

The James Beard Foundation’s Chefs and Champagne returns to Wölffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack, NY on Saturday, June 23, 2011. This star-studded event brings together top toques to showcase their haute cuisine in a truly grand tasting. Culinary luminaries include Matteo Bergamini of SD26; JBF Award Winner Daniel Boulud of Daniel; Marc Forgione of Marc Forgione; George Mendes of Aldea; JBF Award Winner Marcus Samuelsson of The Blue Parrot and Red Rooster; and many more. Chefs from Long Island, New Jersey, Washington, D.C. and the British West Indies will also be present.

Wash it all down with Nicolas Feuillatte, the only Champagne sponsor of this year’s gala and the #1 best-selling Champagne in France and #3 in the world.

Emeril Lagasse will be honored at the event, which raises money for the Beard Foundation’s scholarship fund. Accordingly, the 2011 recipient of the Christian Wölffer Scholarship for wine and food studies will be announced that evening.

Tickets for the event may be purchased online and are as follows:

• 4:30–10:30 P.M.: VIP Experience* – JBF members and General Public $375; VIP tables of 10: $3,500

• 5:30–8:00 P.M.: General Admission – JBF Members $200, General Public $275

*The VIP Experience includes an exclusive, one-hour access to all tastings; advanced silent auction bidding; reserved seating; VIP after-party access; and a gift bag.

Can’t get to the event? Make a donation to the James Beard Foundation and stop by your local retailer to pick up the Nicolas Feuillatte Brut, reading available at Astor, Garnet, Heights Chateau and Sherry-Lehmann among others). Or, treat yourself to its prestige cuvée, Palmes d’Or, in its signature cut-crystal bottle.

Either way, you’ll have no regrets.