Author Archives: Tracy

Gentlemen prefer blondes – Xavier Flouret French Blonde

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They say gentlemen prefer blondes. Here, the “blonde” in question is Xavier Flouret’s French Blonde.

This wine hails from Sancerre, a wine region located within the Central Vineyards section of France’s Loire Valley. As an appellation wine from Sancerre, the wine is produced from 100% Sauvignon Blanc.

Distributed by Cognac One, the Xavier Flouret Wines consist of a curated portfolio of boutique wines from established family vineyards around the world. In the case of the French Blonde, the wines are crafted by the Chatelain family, which has been growing vines since 1630, with the 12th generation family members – Jean-Claude Chatelain and son Vincent – currently at the helm. The vines themselves average 30 years old.

The wine was fermented in stainless steel neither adding nor subtracting flavor from this aromatic grape variety, followed by four months of ageing on the lees (spent yeast cells), and two month bottle ageing before release.

On the nose, the wine displays youthful citrus/lime aromas. On the palate, it has vibrant acidity with concentrated fruit flavors of lime, grapefruit and hay, finishing with a slight undercurrent of stone.

From Croatia with love – Plavac Mali

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Decanter’s World Wine Awards were announced earlier this week, with Angela Muir MW (regional chair for Central and Eastern European wines) noting that, “Croatia really was the discovery of this year.”
In fact, Croatian wines brought home 27 medals in all: 8 Gold, 5 Silver, 11 Bronze and 3 commended.

Among the winners, the Zlatan Plavac Mali Barrique received a Silver medal for its 2006 vintage. The Plavac Mali grape originated in Croatia as a cross between Zinfandel and another indigenous grape, Dobricic. In general, Plavac Mali produces wines that have high tannins, high alcohol, deep color and can age well. While Croatian wines still aren’t prevalent in the U.S. market, several Plavac Mali wines are available in the U.S.

Dingac Ivo Plavac Mali 2006
100% Plavac Mali
Dingac Region, Dalmatia, Croatia
Astor Wines – $16.00 (2007 vintage)
From the Dingac region, an island off the coast of Croatia, this wine spends 18 months is Slovenian oak and displays red fruit and herbal notes, with long length.

Lirica Plavac Mali 2005
100% Plavac Mali
Dingac Region, Dalmatia, Croatia
Crush Wine Co – $22.00 (2007 vintage)
Produced in stainless steel, this wine has an earthy nose with vibrant acidity and firm, but ripe, tannins and earth and cherry flavors on the palate.

Zlatan Plavac Barrique 2007
100% Plavac Mali
Island of Hvar, Dalmatia, Croatia
Columbus Circle Wines – $44.00 (2005 vintage)
Cultivated on 45-degree slopes along the coast, this wine spends 12 months in oak. Dry with herbal, earth and berries, oak, ripe tannins, long length.

Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru 2005
100% Plavac Mali
Island of Hvar, Dalmatia, Croatia
Mt. Carmel Wines – $48.00 (2004 vintage)
From 50 year-old vines, this wine is aged in new barriques for 18 months. Its nose is earthy, herbal and red fruits. On the palate, it is concentrated with berries, tobacco and herbs. Needs time for the tannins to soften.

For more info: See the importer’s website for maps and more information on the region.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Oregon, but not forgotten (August 2009)

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As mentioned previously, we had the wonderful opportunity to visit Oregon in May of this year, visiting downtown Portland as well as spending time in the Willamette Valley. This wine region is producing spectacular wines and, while we have left the area, the memories of its wines are certainly not forgotten. To that end, we revisit its history and provide you with a brief introduction this month.

Among other travels, Tracy has just returned from Sacramento where she attended the Society of Wine Educators’ annual conference, reconnected with many colleagues and participated in a wide variety of educational seminars. Meanwhile, Jared has completed the last of the infrastructure projects for our educational vineyard, installing several hundred feet of irrigation hose. True to Murphy’s Law, the continued downpour has precluded the need for irrigation this year.

Apropos all of the rain, we have been busy offering our services at a number of bridal showers and, additionally, have created a new theme for bachelorette parties – Aphrodite meets Bacchus & Lady Godiva. If you are planning a wedding celebration, let us help you design the perfect wine-themed event.

On a final note, we will be placing a new order for Schott-Zwiesel titanium crystal and invite you to add to your own stemware collection. You may have seen us strike these amazing glasses against our granite counter-top and held your breath as you expected them to break only to watch them remain perfectly intact. This stemware is available in a wide range of styles from classic to modern and can be purchased for as little as $8.00/stem, plus shipping and handling. We’ll soon add more details to our website, so please check back if you are interested in placing an order, or email us directly for a catalog.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

OREGON, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN

Despite its youth as a wine-producing state, Oregon has become nearly synonymous with quality wine and notably its Pinot Noir. Yet, only a few decades ago, early settlers were laughed at by their peers. In 1966, David Lett was fresh out of UC Davis and determined to plant a vineyard and begin making wine. He found what he felt to be suitable land in the Dundee Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, founding the Eyrie Vineyard in 1970, and the rest, as they say, is history. 

David was joined by other wine pioneers shortly thereafter, setting the stage for this nascent wine region. Seeing similarity between their terroir and that of Burgundy (heartland of Pinot Noir), they set about crafting wines that emulated these icons while respecting their own unique soils and climate. Perhaps the most ringing endorsement of their success was the investment made by a top Burgundy négociant and producer, Maison Joseph Drouhin, when it established Domaine Drouhin in Willamette in 1988. Today, Oregon ranks as the fourth largest in U.S. wine production and its wines are highly acclaimed both here and abroad.

While wine regions exist in Oregon’s other valleys – namely Umpqua and Rogue, it is the Willamette Valley that has achieved the most fame. Situated only one hour from Portland, the Willamette is divided into six sub-appellations: Dundee Hills, Ribbon Ridge, Eola Amity Hills, McMinneville, Yamhill-Carlton District and Chehalem Mountains. Beyond Pinot Noir, the Willamette is also known for its Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and sparkling wines. To a lesser extent, some producers are working with Rhone varieties – Syrah and Viognier, most of which is sourced from the warmer Rogue Valley in southern Oregon.

Unfortunately, Oregon Pinot Noir can be quite pricey, due to its limited, labor-intensive, quality-conscious production. However, among New World Pinot Noirs, they are considered to be among the best. Thus, you will be well rewarded for your investment. At the more affordable end, A to Z Wineworks, WillaKenzie and Anne Amie’s Cuvée A provide good value. If you are feeling more flush and wish to splurge a bit, seek out Elk Cove, Bergström, and Cristom.

Tasting Notes

Adelsheim, Pinot Blanc 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $22.00
Among the early pioneers, Adelsheim was established in 1971. Its Pinot Blanc shows citrus, mineral and pear aromas. On the palate, it is dry with medium acidity, medium body and notes of citrus and minerality. 

Anne Amie, Cuvée A Amrita 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $16.00
Named for the Buddhist equivalent of ambrosia, Amrita is a white blend of Pinot Blanc (47%), Muller-Thurgau (25%), Chardonnay (15%), and Riesling (13%). Aromas of tropical fruit and grass give way to a dry palate with citrus and herbal flavors. 1,700 cases produced. 

Jezebel, Pinot Noir 2007, Oregon, $18.00
From Daedalus Cellars, Jezebel is produced as their second label, with grapes sourced from throughout the state for wines intended to be drunk early in their life. This Pinot Noir displays aromas and flavors of barnyard, raspberry and earth. 

Bergström, de Lancellotti Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Chehalem Mountains, OR, $65.00
With a focus on vineyard expression, Bergstrom produces several vineyard designate Pinot Noirs. The de Lancellotti Vineyard shows floral, raspberry and stone aromas and flavors, which combine with an earthy undercurrent that persists throughout its long length. 455 cases produced.

Penner-Ash, Syrah 2006, Oregon, $32.00
Produced in the northern Rhone Valley tradition, this Syrah is co-fermented with 1.5% Viognier. The nose is a mix of plum, berries and floral. Its dry, medium+-bodied palate has a nice, ripe tannic grip with flavors of plum, spice and leather, culminating in long length.

Amity Vineyards, Late Estate Harvest Riesling 2004, Willamette Valley, OR, $15.00 (375 ml)
Owner Myron Redford began making wine in the Eola-Amity appellation in 1974. His late harvest Riesling offers peach, apricot and honey aromas on the nose, joined by developing and floral notes in the mouth. A true dessert wine, it provides significant sweetness on the palate, which is beautifully balanced with vibrant acidity.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Do you speak wine label? (July 2009)

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Among my many goals in life is to become fluent in French. Yet, sometimes even when you speak/read the same language, it can still be difficult to translate the precise meaning of the words in front of you. If this sounds like you in the wine store, this month’s newsletter will help you become bilingual — you’ll learn how to speak wine label.

In the same vein of continuing education, Tracy will head to Sacramento later this month for the Society of Wine Educators (SWE) annual conference. Arriving prior to the start of the main conference activities, she will co-facilitate the society’s Certified Wine Educator Preview course, before immersing herself in three full days of wine seminars.

Grand Cru Classes proctored SWE’s first level exam – the Certified Specialist of Wine – this past April. The self-tutorial course is appropriate for both enthusiasts and wine trade, alike. We may schedule future test dates at our Mattituck facility, so if you have an interest in sitting for this exam, please let us know.

Finally, we are thrilled to announce the launch of two new classes. Where the Bargains Are: The Best Wines for the Budget-Conscious will join our class schedule in August and All that Glitters is not Champagne, which will focus on bargain bubblies, will debut in October, just in time for holiday party planning.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

DO YOU SPEAK WINE LABEL?

Wandering through the wine store’s aisles, a wombat stares at you from the shelf. You stare back. You wonder what the furry critter has to do with wine, but he keeps staring and is, in fact, quite cute. You decide to take him (and the bottle) home. Besides, you really don’t know what all of the other text on the label is really telling you, so why not choose a wine by its label? Admittedly, wine labels can indeed be quite confusing if you don’t know what to look for. However, with this simple tutorial, you can easily crack their code. 

What’s in a name?
First, we’ll start with the front label, which usually includes the name of the producer, name of the wine (if applicable)/grape variety, vintage and origin. The name of the producer is generally synonymous with the brand, i.e. Kendall-Jackson. If the wine contains a minimum of 75% of one particular grape (with higher percentages required in Oregon and the EU), the grape variety may be named on the label. If the respective minimum is not met, such as the case with wines blended from several different grapes, a wine may have a fantasy name, i.e. Insignia (from producer Joseph Phelps), which is simply a made-up name used to differentiate or designate a given wine. 

A vintage year
The vintage refers to the year in which the grapes were harvested, which may not the year the wine is released. If grapes from multiple harvests are blended together, the wine is considered to be non-vintage, usually abbreviated NV. This is very common in Champagne and Port, where vintages are only declared in great years.

I come from a land down under
Another important piece of information is its appellation of origin – the name of the place where the grapes were grown. Depending upon how large a net was cast, so to speak, the origin can be as big as a single country or as small as a named vineyard (which will also include the area in which the vineyard is located). In the U.S., our officially recognized wine regions are known as American Viticultural Areas (AVAs for short). In order to use a particular appellation of origin, a required minimum percentage of the grapes must come from that country, state or county (and their foreign equivalents). A higher proportion of grapes from a particular AVA is required to use the name of the AVA on the label.

I guarantee it
If a wine is labeled as Estate Bottled, 100% of the grapes were grown on land owned or controlled by the producer and located within a viticultural area and the wine was wholly made on the producer’s premises, which must lie within the same viticultural area as the grapes.

The rub with alcohol
Also on the label is the alcohol content, expressed as alcohol by volume. There are an increasing number of high (above 13.5%) alcohol wines on the market (frequently due to higher ripeness levels at harvest), and with slight fluctuations permitted, actual alcohol levels in that 15.5% labeled wine might really be closer to 16%. This may account for why the same one glass of wine with dinner now knocks you out.

Over there
In Europe, winemaking is a much older, more established art. Consequently, wines are entrenched in their particular regions and must adhere to strict laws, which permit what they can do and restrict what they can’t. Deviations from these laws mean that the wine in question may no longer be labeled as a quality wine, but rather as a table wine. Quality wines are labeled with the origin of appellation, but do not generally feature the grape varieties on the label, although this addition seems to be changing, at least for wines bottled for the U.S. Therefore, these wines are a bit more difficult to decipher if you are not familiar with the grape varieties and/or wine styles in that region. All the more reason to find a good local wine store and ask questions (or take a wine class with us). 

Now that you know how to read a wine label, you’ll be able to make a more informed decision about buying that wombat.

Tasting Notes

Some warm weather wines to cool you off this summer.

Badger Mountain Vineyards Pure White NV, Columbia Valley, WA, USA, $22.00 (3 liter)
An organic white in a box, this blend of 60% Semillon and 40% Muller-Thurgau has a very floral nose followed by a clean and citrus medium-bodied palate with a hint of herbal character.

Frederic Mallo Selections, Pinot Blanc “Special Delivery”, 2006, Alsace, France, $12.99
This slightly off-dry wine has lots of ripe, peach notes with a medium-full body and nice minerality.

Volteo, Viura + Viognier 2008, Vinho de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain, $9.00
A blend of Viura and Viognier, along with some Sauvignon Blanc, this easy-quaffing wine provides youthful aromas of citrus and tropical fruit, while the dry palate has flavors of citrus, peach and peach pit.

Domaine Spiropoulos Meliasto 2008, Peloponnese, Greece, $12.99
This dry rose hails from mainland Greece and is comprised of 70% of the indigenous Moschofilero grape. Almost Gewurztraminer-like on the nose, the wine presents with aromas of spice, lychee and floral, which are followed by similar flavors on the palate, culminating in a long length.

Orleans Hill, Zinfandel 2007, Amador County, CA, USA, $9.95
This sulfite-free, organic wine has bright berry aromas with a medium+ body and notes of raspberry and earth, along with an herbal undercurrent.

In memorium for Christian Albin

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four-seasonsI was stunned by the news of Christian Albin’s death earlier this week. Mr. Albin, Executive Chef at the beloved Four Seasons Restaurant, passed away on Saturday, June 13 due to cancer, only two days after the Four Seasons’ 50th Birthday Bash.

Albin joined the Four Seasons in 1973 and assumed the position of Executive Chef in 1990. Accordingly, he has been the chef throughout my entire history with the restaurant, including our attendance at last Thursday’s event.

I only met him briefly once, but his cuisine has had a lasting impression upon me for years. As I recounted in my review of the restaurant’s 50th Anniversary Gala, I quickly became enamored with Christian’s food. Over a decade later, I can still recall the lusciousness of foie gras served with roasted peaches, at that first lunch.

Over the years, I have had the pleasure of dining at the Four Seasons for both formal wine dinners and casual cocktail parties, all of which delivered fabulous food, time and again. Whether it was caviar-topped smoked salmon or braised short ribs, I loved it all. So much so that I trusted him with my palate implicitly. The very first time I ate unagi (eel) and sushi, it was at the Four Seasons, having been afraid to try them previously.

On another occasion, my husband and I chose to order the Chef’s Tasting Menu at dinner, which is simply listed as such on the menu. The server checked for any allergies, but, we would not know what to expect until each course arrived at the table. I don’t recall the full menu, but I do remember that one course included sweet breads, which is something I would never have ordered or thought to try. However, I reasoned that if Christian had deemed the ingredient to be tasty, the least I could do was taste it; they were heavenly.

These memories will remain embedded in my mind as some of my most pleasant experiences and I am thankful to Chef Albin to have them. We will certainly return to the Four Seasons restaurant, but he will truly be missed. Our sincerest condolences to his family and colleagues.

Wine shopping habits, wine scores and Costco

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A recent study, commissioned by Italian wine producer Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, revealed interesting differences between Italian and U.S. wine consumers. It seems that Italian wine drinkers are more focused on quality and thus, continue to buy wine at the same quality levels as previously during this economic downturn. However, they are buying fewer bottles.

Conversely, according to a Nielsen Group study, Americans are drinking in the same quantities, but have adjusted the price point of their purchases. Accordingly, if one used to buy wine in the $15-$20 range, that same consumer is likely now buying wines in the $10-$15 price bracket.

These studies and the comparisons drawn across them serve as an interesting barometer for wine sales during this economic crisis. As the U.S. is poised to become the largest wine market, retailers that offer a wide range of wines at lower price points should fare well.

However, a report from Rabobank indicates that consumers who are trading down in their preferences will possibly maintain their purchasing at the lower level for a long time. Therefore, the long term prognosis for higher end wines (above $15.00) does not bode well.

Concurrent with this news is the rumor that Costco will be changing its policy to limit its new wine purchases to 90+ point wines which retail for $15 or under. If the rumor is valid, Costco should be well positioned to sell wine both in the current and future economic environments.

Fellow Examiner, Dennis Schaefer (Kansas City Wine Examiner), who lives in a state where it is legal to purchase wine in a supermarket, is very alarmed about this potential new policy, fearing homogenization . Similar concern was voiced in New York when the issue of selling wine in NY State grocery stores was up for a vote. However, I am not convinced that this doomsday prediction will come to fruition in the way people envision. For example, Dennis suggests that certain wines will be excluded by this approach such as Vinho Verde. Yet, there are certainly Vinho Verde wines on the market that have indeed achieved good scores and fit within the price band; maybe not as many as Chardonnay, but they do exist. 

Costco has denied the rumor, but, regardless of whether Costco does alter its buying practices, consumer buying habits, with respect to wine ratings and shelf talkers, are likely to continue. Given that the average wine consumer is trading down and many have limited wine knowledge (and frequently, even less confidence in their ability to select wine), the opportunity to buy wines that experts have rated makes them feel more comfortable in buying wine, especially at lower price points (higher prices are often unconsciously thought to be of higher quality). 

While I am not personally a fan of relying on wine scores, I certainly do not condemn people who do, and, especially after my experience in working for a wine importer, recognize the power of high scores to sell wine. Consequently, it would be foolish for retailers not to promote these reviews, especially in larger stores where hand selling is not an option. We may find that wines that do not make the cut (those scoring 80-89) will find a home in smaller wine stores with well-trained sales associates that have the opportunity to tell these wines’ stories.

In any case, the wine industry definitely has its work cut out for them if they want to sell wines above $15.00 for the foreseeable future. Further, if we want consumers to think outside the wine score box, we will need to do a better job in educating them about wine and what quality wine really means beyond simple ratings. Moreover, we need to help them trust their palates and wine preferences. With such progress, we might see less elasticity in U.S. consumers’ wine purchases during the next economic downturn.

Bordeaux futures — the 2008 en primeur campaign

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The Bordeaux Futures campaign kicked off this month, providing consumers with the opportunity to purchase wines from this vintage. The wines are currently still in barrel, ageing in the cellars of their respective Chateaux. Accordingly, wines bought now won’t be delivered until 2011. Robert Parker and other wine critics have declared this to be a good vintage, but note that it is not on par with 2000 or 2005. More specifically, they are comparing it to 2001.

Given the economic climate, the initial prices have been dropped with some wines being offered at the same prices as 2004. However, some of the prices have since increased as purchases have been made, indicating more interest from the trade than was initially expected.

While some people have cautioned that it is not necessary to buy this vintage during the Futures campaign given the economic climate, others have suggested that this is a great opportunity to buy Bordeaux from a quality year, at more reasonable prices than we had seen.

As an indication of the mixed messages, some wine merchants who traditionally offer a large selection of Bordeaux wines through a Futures campaign have decided to forgo participation this year or will be offering only a small set of wines to their customers.

For consumers who do choose to buy en primeur, it is extremely important to buy from a reputable merchant to ensure that you will actually receive the wine you purchase. The key issues are that the store will still be in business when 2011 rolls around and, more importantly, that you are not being scammed as had been the case with a number of dishonest people in 2003 with the 2000 campaign.

If you don’t have a trusted store (or if yours isn’t offering Bordeaux Futures), here are a few recommendations. I have personally had continued success with Sherry-Lehmann, which has posted a list of 59 wines to its site for the 2008 campaign. I have not bought Futures from, but would also recommend, Zachy’s (located in Scarsdale, but you can do a search on their site with key words: Bordeaux 2008) and Acker, Merrall & Condit (no information is on their site, but you can call and speak with a salesperson to discuss availability). In addition, while I am less familiar with Gary’s Wine & Marketplace, they, too, are offering Bordeaux futures (there are 38 wines listed on their site) and they have a good reputation. Obviously, this is not an exhaustive list.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Back to the Futures (June 2009)

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In the film, Back to the Future, Marty McFly heads to the past (1955 to be exact), but must travel back to the future (1985) to avoid tampering with history. Conversely, the Bordelais winemakers constantly look to the future – the future of their wine – on the open market. Like other commodities, understanding wine futures can be somewhat complicated, so we endeavor to explain the annual en primeur campaign, as it is known, which kicks off this month.

Firmly rooted in the present, Grand Cru Classes has just returned from a fabulous trip to Oregon’s Willamette Valley. It was a wonderful weekend of Pinot Noir, with visits to a number of wineries, most notably Willakenzie Estate and Anne Amie. If you have the opportunity to visit this wine region, we highly recommend it.

However, if you are staying closer to home these days, why not visit the wineries out on the North Fork of Long Island, stopping by to take a class with us before hitting the tasting rooms? Our Long Island Wines: From Potatoes to Parker Points is a terrific overview to the region’s history, while our From Vine to Wine class serves as a solid foundation of wine knowledge. Please visit our website for a full schedule of public classes. Alternately, let us bring our Personal Wine Party or other wine event to your home, office or other venue of your choosing.

And, for wine updates in between our monthly newsletters, sign up for email alerts for Tracy’s NY Wine Shopping Examiner column on Examiner.com.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

BACK TO THE FUTURES

Would a clothing manufacturer create a new fashion line and then hold it in a warehouse for over a year, taking up costly space and not producing revenue? Of course not. It seems like such a foolish business model, but that is exactly what happens with most wineries. Grapes are harvested in Year X, but many wines, especially reds, aren’t bottled and released until Year X+2 (or even longer in some cases). Accordingly, wineries must wait several years before they can realize income on a given vintage.

In an effort to increase cash flow during this waiting period while the wines mature in barrel, France’s Bordeaux region adopted the practice of selling futures. Wine merchants are invited to taste barrel samples, a full year before release and then purchase them ahead of time. Like any investment, it is not without some inherent risks – the wines will change over the course of the year, prices may go down, currencies fluctuate, etc. Yet, the potential rewards are securing highly coveted wines before they are sold out and possibly at a lower price than when they are released.

Each April, merchants and journalists descend upon Bordeaux to taste the wines, with prices set by the producers (aka the chateaux) several months later. In the meantime, the critics make their pronouncement on the overall quality of the vintage and publish tasting notes and scores on individual wines. As with other wine ratings, these can often make or break a futures campaign and will also impact pricing. The “blue chip” wines are generally those that were classified (Grand Cru Classé) in 1855, but many other producers have established reputations as well and consequently command high prices for their wines.

The Bordeaux futures campaign kicks off sales to consumers in June, with some of the large retail stores offering a selection of wines from the vintage – in this case 2008, which has been well regarded by wine journalists (but not extolled). Wines ordered now will be delivered in the latter half of 2011. While some have suggested that there is no need to buy futures this year, if you do choose to purchase Bordeaux futures, it is extremely important to find a reputable merchant to ensure that you will indeed receive your wines; scams in this arena are not uncommon. And, unless you are Marty McFly, you will have difficulty going back to 2009 to undo your purchase.

Tasting Notes

Château Bonnet, Bordeaux Blanc 2007, Entre-Deux-Mers, France, $10.00
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle (50%, 40% and 10%, respectively), this wine provides youthful aromas of lemon, hay, apple and slight yeast. With vibrant acidity, the palate has flavors of lime, grapefruit and stone.

Château Bellevue, Bordeaux, 2005, Médoc, France, $15.00
From the much-hyped 2005 vintage, this is an affordable option. On the nose, the wine displays youthful aromas of black currant, tobacco leaf and eucalyptus. Its medium+ tannins are ripe and balance well with flavors of blackberry, currant, oak and graphite, ending with very long length.

Château Moulin de Lagnet 2004, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, France, $30.00
Overshadowed by the great 2000 and 2005 vintages, 2004 provides good value. This wine hails from St. Emilion on the right bank of Bordeaux. Consequently, it is heavily dominated by Merlot with aromas and flavors of plum, cherry and some herbal/earthy notes. 

Château Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville 2003, Pauillac, France, $85.00
The 2003 vintage was the year of the summer heat wave that swept across Europe, hitting record highs. Despite the unusual climatic conditions, this wine has developed nicely, showing concentrated red and black fruits and heavy, but ripe, tannins. 

Château Montrose 1971, St. Estephe, France, $90.00
With a complex nose showing aromas of currant, raspberry and strawberry, joined by notes of floral, grass and dried herbs, this wine has aged beautifully. On the palate, there is dried plum, strawberry, black currant and some slight oak and spice.
NB: This chateau’s second wine is La Dame de Montrose, which retails for about $25.00 for the 2007 vintage.

How to buy wine at a wine auction

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Sold! to the highest bidder. Looking to find older or rare vintage wines, but your local wine shop doesn’t carry such a selection? Wine auctions may be a great solution.

There are two wine auctions coming up this month (see below), but before you head to the auction, here are some pointers to get you started.

Wine auctions typically aggregate the contents of various collectors’ cellars (or in some cases, one very prolific collector) when the collector has decided that he or she would like to liquidate some or all of their wine inventory. The best buys are frequently on mixed lots, which contain wines from several different producers and often in small quantities as these are less prized for their investment value as compared to full cases of a single wine.

** Register for the auction in advance, especially if it is being held at a restaurant, to ensure that there is space available. Registration will require you to provide credit card information.

** Peruse the catalog in advance to identify lots in which you have an interest and pay attention to when those lots come up. Lots will be listed with a low estimate and bidding will begin at that price.

** Decide how high you are willing to go and be willing to walk away from a lot that gets too expensive. Don’t get caught up in the moment amidst the frenzy of competitive bidding.

** Be aware that there is some risk involved when buying older wines. Reputable auction houses will spend time testing and tasting a selection of wines to ensure that they are in good condition and will check provenance as well. However, there is no guarantee that the wine will be okay. Accordingly, the catalog will usually indicate overall condition of the bottle — ullage (level of wine), label damage, and other aspects — to advise the buyer. For an extreme example, see my previous story.

** Expect to pay a Buyer’s Premium fee, which can be as high as 20%, above the actual hammer price of the lot.

** Expect to pay for lunch or dinner if you enjoy a meal as part of the auction. Some auctions may permit you to bring your own wine to accompany the meal and will waive the corkage fee.

Upcoming NYC auctions: 
Morrell & Company Fine Wine Auction
June 24, 2009
11:00 AM
Internet only – online bidding
Absentee bidding now open Zachy’s Wine Auction

June 25, 2009
9:00 AM
Restaurant Daniel