Author Archives: Tracy

Wine for your Valentine – sparkling rose options for all budgets

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Valentine’s Day is less than a week away so scoring a great table before midnight at a top restaurant probably isn’t a feasible proposition at this point. However, planning a romantic evening at home is still well within reach and a wonderful way to celebrate with the one you love.

While pairing any wine with your meal would be fine, a few options lend themselves to the spirit of this holiday. More specifically, a sparkling rose adds to the mood with both its beautiful pink hue and effervescent quality.

Barefoot Bubbly has newly released is its Rose Cuvée. At $10.00/bottle, you can open it anytime, but it can easily add to the atmosphere of a Valentine’s Day dinner, leaving you plenty of money to splurge on fancy food. Despite its low price point, this sparkler is quite nice, with notes of floral, raspberry, cherry and cotton candy on the off-dry palate. This hint of sweetness makes it a good partner with spicy cuisine or as an aperitif to kick-off your meal.  NB: A list of local retailers selling this wine is provided below.

Or, let your love for one another shine through with the sparkle of Champagne in a romantic hue by choosing Ayala Rosé “Majeur” NV, Champagne, France ($50.00), which only recently returned to the U.S., although the house was established in 1860. With an elegant bouquet of fresh red fruits, the wine is dry with crisp acidity and raspberry and toast and is suitable as an aperitif, but can just as easily carry you through the meal and could even accompany light, fruit-based desserts. You can taste a free glass of Ayala Champagne at participating wine stores from February 11 to 14, 2010.

To cap off the evening on a sweet note, open a bottle of Castello Banfi, Rosa Regale, Brachetto d’Acqui, 2008, Piedmont, Italy ($19.95). This is an unusual Italian sparkler made from the red Brachetto grape, which provides a lovely hue of deep rose in your glass, evocative of Valentine’s Day. With wonderful berry and floral aromas on the nose, this medium sweet wine bursts with raspberries on the palate and its sweetness is tempered by its elegant bubbles. At a low alcohol of 7.0%, it won’t add to your lethargy after a long meal, making it the perfect accompaniment with dessert. Morrell & Company will present a series of free sparkling wine tastings this week (Tuesday through Friday), with the Banfi Rosa Regale available on Wednesday, joined by Banfi’s co-CEO Cristina Mariani-May. All tastings will run 3:30-6:30 PM.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Botrytized Wines: When Bad Mold Goes Good (February 2010)

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Winter is in full swing and, unfortunately, the groundhog did not provide us with any good news this week. But, we can take heart that our imperative to stay inside is a good excuse to curl up with a good glass of wine.

As a reminder, we will once again host the Society of Wine Educators’ Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) Exam on April 10, 2010 at 12:00 PM. While this is a self-study exam, we will be offering a Review Session on March 27, 2010 from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, with a 1-hour lunch break. Registration for the exam itself should be done directly through the Society of Wine Educators’ website and will cost $370.00, with the corresponding study guide.  The full-day review session, inclusive of a light lunch paired with wines, will be $375/person with a discount rate of $295/person for organizations signing up three or more people, with sign-up done through Grand Cru Classes.

And, as a save-the-date, we will be collaborating with Macari Vineyards to present our Sex, Wine & Chocolate event on April 17, 2010 from 3:00-5:00 PM in Macari’s newly expanded tasting room.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

Botrytized Wines: When Bad Mold Goes Good

Growing grapes is a never-ending challenge; no matter where your vines are planted, one must contend with a lengthy list of pests and perils that threaten the health of the vines and grapes. From gusty winds and ravenous birds to virulent bacteria and disease, the vigneron keeps a vigilant eye on his or her vineyard. In maritime climates (those found near bodies of water), damp conditions dominate, providing the perfect opportunity for the development of mold and mildew. In most cases, mold and mildew are negative. However, under the right conditions, one particular blight can lead to a very positive outcome.

When this particular mold behaves badly, it is called bunch rot or grey rot. These grapes will become mushy and useless – incapable of anything other than fodder for the trash heap. However, if the misty mornings are followed by warm, sunny afternoons, a completely different fungus develops. Known as botrytis cinera or noble rot, the mold spores send out tiny filaments, piercing the grape’s skin and chemically-altering their composition. Consequently, the grapes shrivel on the vine, becoming desiccated and concentrated. These “rotten” grapes will actually yield amazing wines, despite their extremely unattractive appearance.

Recognized as a positive element as early as the 17th century, noble rot is now responsible for some of the greatest wines in the world. More specifically, favorable conditions for promoting noble rot are found in the Sauternes area within France’s Bordeaux region; Burgenland in Austria; Eger in Hungary and several regions in Germany. Botrytized wines combine bright acidity and high levels of sugar, which balance each other beautifully, coupled with rich aromas and flavors of citrus, honey, apricot and raisin. They are capable of lengthy ageing, developing further complexity and concentration with time.

Because the rot affects the grape bunches unevenly, the grapes are not only hand-harvested, but they must also be harvested in numerous passes through the vineyard. The famed Chateau d’Yquem of Sauternes is known to send its workers through the fields up to eleven times in a single year’s harvest, while most producers rely on four to nine passes or tries. Additionally, due to significant water evaporation from the grapes, they yield considerably less liquid than non-botrytized grapes. With a regular wine, one grapevine is equivalent to one bottle of wine; with noble rot, one grapevine is equivalent to only one glass of wine. Therefore, these wines typically command high prices. Also, as dessert wines, they are often packaged in smaller 375 ml bottles. Yet, while dessert is a perfect complement to these wines, they can also provide a foil for rich foods such as foie gras and Roquefort cheese.

Tasting Notes

Alois Kracher, Burgenland Beerenauslese Cuvée 2005, Burgenland, Austria, $36.00 (375 ml)
Notes of honey, mushroom, musk and botrytis dominate the nose. Fully sweet, the wine has medium+ acidity, full body and long length. Flavors of honey, spice, dried peach and pineapple pervade the palate.

Château Rieussec, Fargues 2003, Bordeaux, France, $90.00
With a deep golden hue, this wine provides aromas of raisins, spice and dried fruit. On the palate, it is medium-sweet, with medium+ body, balanced acidity and rich flavors of honey, spice and licorice.

Château Guiraud, Sauternes 2001, Bordeaux, France, $110.00
Pronounced aromas of spice, toast, nut and honey greet the nose. The full-bodied palate is medium-sweet with high acidity and complex flavors of honey, licorice, orange marmalade, orange peel and spice.

Château Laufaurie-Peyraguey, Bommes 1955, Bordeaux, France
Showing its age gracefully, this wine has a medium copper color and displays developed aromas of burnt sugar and spice. While still medium-sweet, the sweetness is less overt, with flavors of honey, burnt sugar, vanilla and brandy persisting throughout the long finish.

Dobogo, Tokaji Aszu (6 Puttanyos) 1999, Eger, Hungary, $37.00
Copper in color, this wine is a blend of Harslevelu and Furmint, which are indigenous grapes from the area. Medium-sweet with high acidity, it is full-bodied with pronounced flavors of orange, apricot, cloves, caramel and sweet spice, culminating in long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Que Syrah Syrah (January 2010)

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Happy New Year! We hope that the new year will be a good one for you and your loved ones. For us, it is a safe bet that wine, including Syrah, will feature prominently in our lives. However, unless you have a crystal ball, the only thing we can say for sure is “que sera sera – what will be will be” for 2010.

In the more immediate future, we would like to remind you about our upcoming winemaking seminar with Waters Crest Winery proprietor, James Waters. This special session will take place on Saturday, January 23 2010 from 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM and will feature a comprehensive lesson on how to make wine, along with a discussion on food and wine pairing principles.

In addition, we will once again host the Society of Wine Educators’ Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) Exam on April 10, 2010 at 12:00 PM. While this is a self-study exam, we will be offering a Review Session on March 27, 2010 from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, with a 1-hour lunch break. Registration for the exam itself should be done directly through the Society of Wine Educators’ website and will cost $370.00, with the corresponding study guide.  The full-day review session, inclusive of a light lunch paired with wines, will be $375/person with a discount rate of $295/person for organizations signing up three or more people.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

Que Syrah Syrah

Among the noble grapes, Syrah figures heavily in the world of wine and is the fifth most planted red wine grape in the world. Highly regarded for its powerful, long-lived wines, the best examples are full-bodied, with firm tannins and rich mulberry fruit, leather, smoke and black pepper.

Although the grape originated in Southeast France, it is most known for the big, bold wines hailing from the northern Rhône Valley. Here, the much lauded Côte Rôtie and Hermitage are primarily produced from 100% Syrah, with a small percentage of Viognier and Marsanne, respectively, permitted to be co-fermented. Less well known, and therefore, frequently less pricey, are the appellations of St. Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage, which drink well at a much younger age than their more famous colleagues. Further south in the Rhône Valley, Syrah shares the spotlight with other indigenous varieties within Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Côtes du Rhone blends and is widely planted in Languedoc-Roussillon, where it provides good structure to those wines.

Given its popularity, Sryah can be found in nearly every other wine producing country with key areas including the United States, Australia, Chile and South Africa. Down under, Syrah changed its name to Shiraz. However, while Shiraz, a city found in medieval Persia, was renowned for its wine, the use of its name for this grape variety is a misnomer as there is no true connection between the two. Australian Shiraz tends to be riper, more fruit forward and reminiscent of chocolate or cocoa on the palate compared to the Rhône wines. This is especially true in warmer Australian climates such as the Barossa Valley and the newer, Heathcote region. Cooler climates produce wines with more elegance and spice. When not bottled on its own, Syrah blends well with Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon.

With its hybrid status as neither Old World or New World, South Africa frequently takes its cue in labeling its wines as either Syrah if they are French in style or as Shiraz if they lean toward Australia in style.

The grapes prefer warmer climates where they can achieve full ripeness. Hence, Syrah does well in California’s Napa and Sonoma Valleys as well as in the Central Coast; Oregon’s Rogue Valley (which is much warmer than the northerly Willamette Valley); and in Washington State.

Tasting Notes

Babcock Winery, Identity Crisis Syrah 2008, Santa Barbara County (CA), USA, $15.00
This is truly an unusual wine. With barely a hint of coppery color, it is the least likely looking Syrah. However, it is 100% Syrah vinified in stainless steel without its skins. It has a dry palate with notes of nectarine, cherry and a hint of spice, along with good acidity.

Casas Patronales, Syrah Reserva Privada 2007, Maule Valley, Chile, $15.00
A step above their entry-level wines, Casas Patronales’ Reserva Privada wines see 12 months in oak, compared to 6. This Syrah has aromas of fruit, oak, cocoa and coffee. The full-bodied palate is very earthy, showing some black and red fruit along with some spice and minerality. Long length.

Horse Mountain Wines, Shiraz 2005, Paarl, South Africa, $10.00
Located just over 30 minutes away from Cape Town, Horse Mountain Wines is located within the Western Cape wine region. Its Shiraz, aged in new French and American oak barrels for 12 months, delivers intense aromas of spice and berries. On the palate, ripe tannins mingle with dark fruit flavors and baking spice.

Loan Wines, Shiraz 2004, Barossa Valley, Australia, $35.00
The hand-picked grapes for this wine come from the vineyards of Loan Wines, which are Certified Organic. With its small batch production (400 cases) and limited yield (1.5 tons/acre), the wine shows deep intense flavors of black fruit, spice and tar.

Monticello Vineyards, Estate Grown Syrah 2006, Oak Knoll District (Napa Valley), USA, $50.00
With familial roots in Virginia, founder Jay Corley sought to honor his ancestors as well as Thomas Jefferson by naming his wine in recognition of Jefferson’s home. Their Syrah is grown on the valley floor in Napa’s Oak Knoll District. This wine presents developing aromas of oak, cedar, and fainter notes of berry, spice and earth. Full-bodied on the palate, lush black cherry flavors are joined by notes of oak, cedar, earth and spice.

Welcome!

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Welcome to my winederful life! As you may know, I was previously the author of Grapematter, which still exists, but has been dormant for some time. To view posts from that blog, please visit: http://grandcruclasses.com/grapematter/

However, I am now on to bigger and better with the launch of my new site, It’s A Winederful Life. I am delighted that you are here and hope you will return often to share my journey.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Cellar Stockers IV (December 2009)

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‘Tis the season to be jolly and what better way to celebrate the season than with the gift of wine. Accordingly, our annual gift-giving guide returns this month to help you find the perfect gift for everyone on your list.

Beyond the bottle, a gift certificate from Grand Cru Classes is the gift that always fits. Purchase seats to a public class, provide them with wine consulting services or offer them the gift of a private wine event. Certificates are elegantly packaged with a set of wine charms and can be sent directly to you or the recipient (your choice).

For a very unique opportunity, why not treat someone in your life to a special winemaking series with Grand Cru Classes and Jim Waters, owner and winemaker at Waters Crest Winery? Details will be sent out separately as soon as they are available.

If you find yourself entertaining for the holidays and want to throw a wine-themed party, we still have a few dates available. Call or e-mail us for a quote.

Hosting on a smaller scale? Let us make your life easier with our wine shopping services. Simply provide us with your wine budget, number of guests expected and any themes or preferences and we’ll create the perfect wine list for your event, arrange for delivery and design customized tasting sheets and information on each wine, all for a flat fee of $175.00.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

CELLAR STOCKERS IV

The holidays bring a flurry of parties and visits with friends and family. Don’t arrive empty-handed. Instead, reach for a festive sparkler that sets the tone and is sure to please: Juve y Camps, Reserva de la Familia 2004, Catalonia, Spain, $13.00. 

Hosting at home? Appeal to their green side with an organic wine (from Washington State’s first Certified Organic vineyard) that not only tastes great, but is also great for the environment with Badger Mountain Vineyards Pure White 2007, Columbia Valley, WA ($22.00 -3L box).

Show your parents you appreciate them with a wine from the year you were born. Check out a vintage chart to see what wines were ageworthy and are still drinking well; then, turn to a store that carries older vintages to find that special bottle. If this proves to be too much of a challenge, consider an elegant Italian wine: Scavino, Barolo Carobric 2004, Piedmont, Italy, $75.00.

You might be less enamored with your in-laws (or maybe not), but don’t let it show, by sending them world-class Chablis from a stellar vintage: Joseph Drouhin Domaine de Vaudon, Vaudesir Grand Cru 2008, Chablis, France, $72.00.

If you’ve made a new acquaintance, take this time to let them know you care with a fresh, fruit-forward white wine that isn’t among the usual suspects: Treana, Proprietary White 2007, Paso Robles, CA, $17.00.

Thank your best friend for being there for you all year long. Toast your friendship with a voluptuous Pinot Noir: Brooks, “Janus” Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley, OR, $35.00.

Finally, let your love for one another shine through with the sparkle of Champagne in a romantic hue by choosing a classic rosé option: Ayala Rosé “Majeur” NV, Champagne, France $60.00.

See the Tasting Notes section for detailed notes on the above wines.

Tasting Notes

Juve y Camps, Reserva de la Familia 2004, Catalonia, Spain, $13.00
This family-owned winery is located in the heartland of the Penedes region – San Sadurni d’Anoia. Produced from a traditional blend of Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo, the intense nose presents with notes of yeast, citrus and mineral, with rich flavors of citrus and yeast on the round and creamy palate. 

Badger Mountain Vineyards Pure White 2007, Columbia Valley, WA, $22.00 -3L box
A blend of Semillon, Muller-Thurgau and Sauvignon Blanc, this wine has a wonderfully floral nose, but is dry on the palate with citrus and tropical fruit notes. With no sulfites or other preservatives added, the winemaking is organic as well. Packaged in environmentally friendly cardboard, this box contains the equivalent of 4 bottles of wine with a vastly reduced carbon footprint due to its lower weight, yet, once opened, will remain fresh for weeks.

Scavino, Barolo Carobric 2004, Piedmont, Italy, $75.00
A beautiful Barolo from highly respected winemaker Enrico Scavino, this wine has a very floral nose. The palate consists of black fruits – mostly dark berries – with continued floral notes, dried herbs and firm tannins, culminating in long length. 

Joseph Drouhin Domaine de Vaudon, Vaudesir Grand Cru 2008, Chablis, France, $72.00
This wine has pronounced minerality, damp earth, bruised apple and a slight woody note on the nose, all of which re-appeared on the rich palate and remained throughout the exceedingly long finish. 

Treana, Proprietary White 2007, Paso Robles, CA, $17.00
A 50-50 blend of Marsanne and Viognier (both Rhone Valley varietals), this wine is dry with very ripe, tropical fruit aromas. On the palate, pineapple and an undercurrent of stone persist throughout the medium length. 

Brooks, “Janus” Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley, OR, $35.00
A relatively complex wine for the price with vibrant acidity and very lush fruit, this palate shows raspberry, cherry, violet and slight herbal notes. 

Ayala Rosé “Majeur” NV, Champagne, France $60.00.
Although Champagne house Ayala was established in 1860, its wines only recently returned to the U.S. With an elegant bouquet of fresh red fruits, the wine is dry with crisp acidity and raspberry and toast and is suitable as an aperitif, but can just as easily carry you through the meal and could even accompany light, fruit-based desserts.

Asti Spumante DOCG

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With the holiday season upon us, it is a great opportunity to celebrate with sparkling wine. Aside from Champagne, there are numerous options available to consumers.

Asti Spumante, a sweet sparkler from the Piedmont region in Italy, is a great wine to serve with dessert, salty cuisine or as an aperitif. Like most other sparkling wines, Asti is the product of a second fermentation, during which the CO2 is retained in the wine. However, since it is produced from the Moscato Bianco grape, a very aromatic variety, the wine is not kept in contact with the dead yeast cells (as is the case in Champagne and similarly-styled sparklers) in order to preserve the fresh fruit and floral aromas and flavors. At an average 7% abv, it is light and delicate, with a gentle froth on the palate.

A sister wine, Moscato d’Asti, is made with the same grapes, but has a higher sugar content, lower alcohol level and fewer atmospheres of pressure. This latter difference accounts for the use of a regular wine bottle.

As a DOCG wine (it was promoted to this status in 1993), as opposed to a DOC wine, Asti Spumante is carefully regulated by the consortium. The extra “G” stands for Garantita – guaranteed – with quality control monitored at all stages including chemical analyses of the must to verify that the proper grapes are being used, tasting evaluations to ensure that the wines meet quality standards and further checks once the wine has made its way into the market.

FREE TASTINGS
Now through December 5, consumers have the opportunity to receive a complimentary taste of Asti Spumante at participating restaurants throughout New York City. Visit the Alta Cucina Society’s website for the full listing.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Where the Bargains Are…Revisited (November 2009)

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Wow, Fall seems to be literally flying by as Grand Cru Classes completes a whirlwind of projects in October and November. Among our many endeavors, we are thrilled to be providing staff training to the esteemed Four Seasons Restaurant in Manhattan and for Park Place Wines in tony East Hampton.

In between preparing custom training materials and introducing dozens of people to the world of wine, Tracy has had her nose in the books as she studied for Year 1 (of 3) of the American Wine Society’s Wine Judging Certification program. An educational session and Year 1 exam were presented at the annual conference held in Destin, Florida earlier this month. She also “appeared” on Heritage Radio Network’s At the Root of It with Erin Fitzpatrick for the October 27 episode.

November marks the end of our public class sessions in Mattituck for 2009, so if you wish to take a class with us this season, please check our schedule and sign up. Public classes will resume in May. However, private events may be booked with us all year.

In fact, as the allure of the holiday season comes upon us, why not consider a special wine tasting or wine and cheese event in place of your usual holiday party? With years of event planning experience, we can provide you with an elegant affair that your guests will fondly remember.

Beyond entertaining, Grand Cru Classes offers beautifully-packaged gift certificates. Give the gift of a public wine class, a private wine event or consultation services for wine shopping or developing a wine cellar. To make your gift even more special, all gift certificates purchased between now and December 31 will be sent with a set of handmade wine charms.

Finally, if you need to stock up on break-resistant, crystal stemware, now is the time. These glasses also make great gifts. Our next order with Schott-Zweisel will be placed by November 30th. Please contact us directly to receive a catalog of style choices and pricing.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

WHERE THE BUYS ARE…REVISITED

A recent study, commissioned by Italian wine producer Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, revealed interesting differences between Italian and U.S. wine consumers. It seems that Italian wine drinkers are more focused on quality and thus, continue to buy wine at the same quality levels as previously during this economic downturn. However, they are buying fewer bottles. Conversely, according to a Nielsen Group study, during this recession, Americans are drinking in the same quantities, but have adjusted the price point of their purchases. Accordingly, if one used to buy wine in the $15-$20 range, that same consumer is likely now buying wines in the $10-$15 price bracket. With this in mind, we turn our attention to tips and tricks for finding where the bargains are.

Lesser-known Neighbors
In wine, as in real estate, it’s all about location, location, location. With the popularity of key grape varieties, wine regions or both, the price of these wines escalates. Meanwhile, wines that hail from “the wrong side of the tracks” can offer consumers great value. More specifically, if you enjoy the crisp acidity, citrus aromas and flavors and minerality of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé from France’s Loire Valley, look to the villages of Quincy, Reuilly and Menetou-Salon for similarly styled wines at lower price points. The vaunted Sauternes of Bordeaux is prized for its botrytis-affected dessert wines, but the favorable conditions that exist to create these wines are not confined to this single area. Wines from satellite communes Loupiac, Cadillac, Cerons and Ste. Croix du Mont may not have the same longevity, but will provide better bang for your buck for early consumption.

Know thy Vintage and/or Producer
Scaling back on your Burgundy purchases? Generic appellations (AC Bourgogne vs. AC Gevry-Chambertin) from well-regarded négociants (such as Latour, Drouhin and Jadot) will provide good quality wines less expensively. Other Burgundian options are to seek out wines from districts other than the famed Côtes de Nuits and Côtes de Beaune (collectively known as the Côte d’Or) – Côte Chalonnaise offers good Pinot Noirs while Macon, especially Pouilly-Fuissé) is regarded for its Chardonnays. Bordeaux is all about vintage, so choose lesser known producers in great years (2000, 2003, 2005) or search out better producers in “shadow vintages,” those years that got lost in the hoopla of better rated vintages (i.e., 2001 and 2004), for more reasonable options.

Where the Buys Are 2009
Still considered up and coming, Chilean wines are seeing significant improvement in their quality while still being available at the lower end of the market. In particular, Sauvignon Blanc from Leyda and Carmenere from the Maule Valley are terrific choices. Finally, don’t overlook Long Island. While often thought to be expensive wines, a recent blind tasting of Long Island wines pitted against their international peers found that not only did the wines compare favorably on the palate, they usually much less expensive than the competition.

Tasting Notes

Cascina Ca’Rossa, Roero Arneis «Merica» 2008, Piedmont, Italy, $14.95
This wine is made from the Arneis grape, which is indigenous to the Piedmont region, located in northwestern Italy. On the nose, there are aromas of floral, almond and honey. On the palate, flavors of lime, almond, straw and honey linger throughout the long length. 

Pierre Sparr, Selection Series Riesling 2008, Alsace, France, $14.00
As with most Alsatian wines, this one is varietally correct, truly showing off Riesling’s peach and citrus aromas and flavors. The palate is dry with high acidity and medium length. 

Channing Daughters, Scuttlehole Chardonnay 2008, The Hamptons, $16.00
This unoaked Chardonnay held its own when blind tasted amidst wines from Chablis and Pouilly-Fuissé. Youthful aromas of floral, mineral and lime persist on the palate and are joined by lemon and stone. Crisp acidity and concentrated fruit are balanced by its full body.

Château Teyssier, St. Emilion Grand Cru 2006, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
Aromas of black fruit and molasses greet the nose. The palate is dry with medium acidty and medium tannins, along with flavors of blackberry, coffee, and spice. 

Casas Patronales, Carmenere Reserva 2008, Maule Valley, Chile, $10.00
This producer’s Reserva wines spend 6 months aged in oak, but the wines are not overly oaky. The Carmenere is dry with medium body and medium acidity. Its palate is spicy with red fruits/raspberry and slight earth flavors culminating in medium+ length.

Industria Argentina – authentic Argentine cuisine in the heart of NYC

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If  you are looking for authentic Argentinean food, look no further than Industria Argentina, located  in TriBeCa. Opened in 2005, the restaurant boasts beautiful design and decor, all of which was imported from Argentina, including the artwork that adorns the walls and the planks on the hardwood floors. Of course, Chef Natalia Machado was also imported. She hails from Buenos Aires, but having spent her summers in Ushuaia, she counted the penguins along the beach among her pets/playmates as a child. Industria Argentina recently hosted a series of special dinners paired with wines from Argentine producer, Finca Flichman. With both culinary school and significant professional cooking experience, Natalia brings her heritage to the kitchen, serving up regional specialties from north to south, which was reflected in the four-course menu. Drawing from Argentina’s melding of Spain, Italy and England, the cuisine incorporated a myriad of traditions, but was all expertly executed. Situated at the southern tip of the South American continent, the waters off the coast of Ushuaia are quite cold, similar to those off the coast of Alaska, and provide fertile fishing ground. Fished from these waters, the first course consisted of pan-seared sea scallops, served over smoked almond pesto and tomato compote. The pesto was a lovely, fresh accompaniment to the earthy tomatoes and seared scallops. Picking up on the smokey and earthy note, an oaked, full-bodied Chardonnay matched nicely.
Finca Flichman Chardonnay Roble 2008, Mendoza, Argentina
Notes of apple, spice and slight oak, full-bodied, medium acidity. A hearty stew of slow braised lamb and pumpkins, joined by Andean corn and peach chutney, followed the scallops. Served in a jack-be-little pumpkin, the dish was visually stunning as well as delicious. It paired beautifully with a Reserve Malbec, which was well-balanced and elegant on the palate.
Finca Flichman Malbec Reserva 2007, Mendoza, Argentina
Aromas of blackberry, blueberry, spice and oak persist on the palate with long length. Grilled rib eye steak, with mixed potatoes and chimichurri sauce (homemade and available at the restaurant for $6.00/jar) came next. The steak was well prepared, but the potatoes seemed to steal all of the praise, with many of the diners clearing their plates. An Argentine blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with firm tannins and concentrated fruit complimented the steak.
Finca Flichman Paisaje de Tupungato 2006, Mendoza, Argentina
Smoke, black fruits and herbal notes dominate the nose and palate with medium+ tannins. The dessert course featured a traditional dish of candied pumpkin, Zapallos en Almibar. The pumpkins are treated with lime (calcium carbonate, not the citrus fruit), which draws out the moisture and heightens the flavors. The dried pumpkin is then caramelized in simple syrup. A dry, sparkling wine helped to cleanse the palate between bites of the extremely sweet dessert.
Finca Flichman Extra Brut NV, Mendoza, Argentina
Citrus and mineral notes with high acidity. For more info: 
Industria Argentina
329 Greenwich St
New York, NY 10013-3318
(212) 965-8560
Appetizers average $12.00; Entrees range from 18.00-28.00 for single dishes, $42.00-52.00 for two.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Taming of the Brew (October 2009)

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Several years ago, we visited my parents at their home in Ashland, Oregon and had the opportunity to attend their town’s renowned Shakespeare Festival where we saw Taming of the Shrew. While Petruchio worked hard to “tame” Katherina, vintners in Cahors, France have put their energies toward taming the tannins in their wines.

Here at home, Tracy hopes that taming of her students will not be necessary as she begins teaching WSET Intermediate Certificate at the International Wine Center later this month. She completed an intensive teacher training program with the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET) in August and is now ready to hit the ground running.

Jared has been equally busy, completing Murray’s Cheese Boot Camp in late September, which entailed 15 hours of intensive cheese study over three days. All told, he consumed about three pounds of cheese while tasting through over 65 samples.

Both our wine and cheese knowledge are being well-utilized by clients this month as we provide training in French wines for the crew of a private yacht and present a special “Welcome to Long Island” wine and cheese party for a wedding on Shelter Island.

We are also delighted to announce that we were featured in Edible East End’s High Summer issue: To Drink, Perchance to Teach.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

TAMING OF THE BREW

“‘They have tamed the tannins.'” Such was the pronouncement from Elin McCoy, noted wine writer and author, at a tasting event launching the Cahors campaign in the U.S. Traditionally known for extremely tight and tannic wines, Cahors, situated in Southwest France, was called “the black wine” in the 13th century. However, as McCoy explained, today’s wines are much more approachable with less tannic grip than the wines of old. 

The tiny village of Cahors is home to only 5,000 inhabitants, but boasts two UNESCO heritage sites – Valentré Bridge and Cathédrale Saint-Étienne. There are 430 growers producing AOC Cahors, all of which is red and produced with a minimum of 70% Malbec, which hails from this region despite Argentina’s market dominance with this grape. The terrain is divided among the plateau, slope and valley, with grapes from the various parcels blended together to create deeper complexity.

Present day wines can be grouped into one of three wine styles: intense and complex (100% Malbec); feisty and powerful (85-100% Malbec) and tender and fruity (70-85% Malbec). Not surprisingly, the more expensive wines tend to fall into the first category. However these wines still represent good value with the majority of them ranging from $10.00 to $20.00. At this price point, the wines offer ataste of their origin and are really quite interesting, giving the consumer great wines for the price. 

Cahors typically display aromas and flavors of black fruits, such as blackberry and blueberry, and hints of mushrooms (with age). They also show some minerality and finish with fresh acidity and firm, but ripe, tannins. Compared to Argentine Malbecs, Cahors wines are less fruit-driven and retain more elegance with lighter, less jammy aromas and flavors. These wines are food friendly and pair well with local cuisines – notably truffles, foie gras and cassoulet, but could just as easily complement barbecue fare, grilled meats and game. 

Located not too far from Bordeaux, the regions share the same climate and annual weather patterns. Consequently, the two mirror each other in terms of vintage quality and variation. In great vintages such as 2005 and 2008, the wines are capable of ageing well with as much as 10-15 years of cellaring. Less stellar years provide an opportunity to drink the wines young.

As part of the campaign to promote these wines, a special Cahors glass (the only region with its own official stemware) and special bottle were commissioned. The Cahors glass has a ring in the stem, which permits one to place their fingers in it when holding the glass.

Tasting Notes

TENDER & FRUITY
Château Croze de Pys, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $10.00
Aromas of plum and blackberry greet the nose of this 100% Malbec wine. With an attractive freshness and good fruit, the palate offers vibrant acidity and firm tannins along with notes of blackberry and slight earth. 

Château Les Croisille, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $12.00
Blended with approximately 15% Merlot, this deep ruby wine has black fruit aromas. Blackberry and herbal, spice, savory and olive, well-balanced with long length. 

FEISTY & POWERFUL
Château La Caminade, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $21.00
A pronounced nose of smoke, bramble fruit and a hint of savory leaps from the glass. Similarly, the wine is powerful on the palate, with deep and rich flavors of blackcherry, herbal, wood/oak and earth, coupled with firm, but ripe tannins, 

INTENSE & COMPLEX
Château de Haute-Serre, Cahors 2004, Cahors, France, $18.00
Made from 100% Malbec, black fruits, spice and pepper notes fill the nose. However, on the palate, the wine is brighter, showing raspberry, earth and gamey flavors. 

Domaine Cosse Masionneuve, « Les Laquets » Cahors 2004, Cahors, France, $45.00
Proprietors Mathieu Cosse and Catherine Maisonneuve started their small domaine in 1999 and make their wines as naturally as possible, practicing biodynamic principles. Nearly opaque, the wine shows mineral/flint notes along with floral and blueberry aromas. On the palate, lush fruit flavors of blackcherry and blackberry are joined by vanilla and hints of stone and herbal.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Getting down and dirty (September 2009)

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As summer comes to an end, the North Fork is gearing up for harvest and will soon be ready to get down and dirty in the vineyard. If you are heading out to the North Fork this Fall season, you are sure to get caught up in the season’s excitement.

Grand Cru Classes is buzzing with its own excitement as we debut our new Where the (Wine) Bargains Are class on September 13 at 2:00 PM, joining our ever-popular From Vine to Wine class and others on the schedule. In addition, we will be presenting a five-week wine appreciation series for the Town of Riverhead’s Department of Recreation. If you can’t make it out East, you can catch Tracy at NYU where she will teach two classes: Exploring Italian Wines from North to South (5-weeks beginning October 6) and Seven Wines That Will Devastate Your Friends (one session – November 17). See NYU’s website to register.

Aside from teaching classes, we are thrilled to be bottling our first wine, produced from neighbor Macari Vineyards’ grapes from the vaunted 2007 harvest. This wine is not available for sale, but has been a wonderful opportunity for Jared and two friends to get hands-on experience in winemaking.

On a final note, we are pleased to announce the following special offer. The French Wine Society will host its 2nd annual conference this October 4-7 in Washington D.C. In addition to in-depth seminars, the conference will also include the launch of the Cheeses of France Academy (and its teaching materials), the French Wine Scholar certification exam, along with Master-Level certificate exams for both the Rhône Valley and Provence. The French Wine Society is extending a 10% discount to Grand Cru Grapevine subscribers. Please use discount code: RIUT6B when registering for the conference. For more details on the conference, please see the French Wine Society’s website.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

GETTING DOWN AND DIRTY

With harvest just around the corner, the vineyards will be filled with workers. While certainly imbued with more romance than harvesting other fruit, picking grapes is hard work, requiring pickers to stoop and bend as they examine each cluster before cutting it from the vine. By the end of the day, the harvest workers will be covered in sweat and dirt. 

And, as Ronnie LaCroute, proprietor of WillaKenzie Estate in Oregon, states in her email signature file, “Dirt Matters.” In fact, soil is one of the major factors that influence winemaking. Some of the influence is simple. For example, dark soils help to retain heat overnight, while white-colored soils can reflect the sunlight onto the grapes, ensuring ripeness in an otherwise marginal climate. More complex is the influence of the soil content on the finished wine whereby the mineral content is often reflected in the flavor profile of the wines, creating wines that truly taste of the terroir (place they were grown and made). Consequently, throughout the world, there are key soils that are highly prized.

Here are just a few examples of how “dirt matters”. In Champagne, the calcareous soils are high in calcium and help the grapes to retain their natural acidity. Elsewhere in France, the assortment of limestone, silex and gravel are felt to account for flint and mineral notes in Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs, especially those from Sancerre. Within Australia, Coonawarra is known for producing Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, the high quality of which is attributed to the terra rossa soils found there. Terra rossa is a red-colored soil, which consists of clay over limestone, providing good drainage. On New Zealand’s North Island in Hawkes Bay, an area known as Gimblett Gravels is among the first appellations in the New World truly based on terroir rather than political boundaries. After the Ngaruroro River flooded in the 1860s, dry beds of gravel were exposed. The vineyard land, mainly planted to Bordeaux varieties, forces the vines to go extremely deep to find water and results in high quality wines.

Regardless of the region and the soils present in the area, the grape variety, climate, annual weather conditions, viticultural practices and vinification techniques also play an important role in winemaking. These factors, coupled with the soil type, will ultimately be responsible for influencing what ends up in the glass.

Tasting Notes

St. Urbans-hof, Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett 2008, Mosel, Germany, $17.00
The term “kabinett” refers to the ripeness level of the grapes at harvest, with kabinett being the starting point of the scale, which is reserved for quality wines only. Aromas include typical Riesling notes of floral and peach. On the palate, the wine is off-dry, with flavors of peach and a mineral undercurrent.

Benjamin Vieux, Château Gaubert, Graves Blanc 2005, Bordeaux, France, $17.00
Graves is the French word for gravel and this area within Bordeaux has a large concentration of gravel within its soils that help with drainage. Produced from a blend of 60% Semillon and 40% Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is starting to show some development with aromas of yeast, apple and honey. Dry, with crisp acidity, it shows flavors of yeast, oak, smokiness and citrus, culminating in long length. 

WillaKenzie Estate, Pierre-Léon Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley (Oregon), US, $38.00
WillaKenzie, a type of soil that originates from the pushed up sea floor is found in the Willamette Valley’s Yamhill-Carlton and Ribbon Ridge areas. With a beautifully perfumed nose accompanied by a note of fresh raspberries, this wine continues to deliver on the palate with raspberry, earth, minerality and an undercurrent of wet leaves. 

Cakebread Merlot 2005, Napa Valley (California), US $54.00
This Merlot is blended with 22% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Syrah with fruit sourced from Rutherford, Oakville and Calistoga. Notes of red and black fruits along with cinnamon/spice greet the nose. Aged for 18 months in French oak barrels (45% of which were new), the vibrant acidity and medium tannins on the palate are well balanced with flavors of cherry, slight earth, and spice.

Vilafonte Series C 2004, Stellenbosch, South Africa, $59.00
A collaboration between South African producer Warwick Estates and famed California winemaker Zelma Long, Vilafonte is named for a soil type. The “Series C” is a blend heavy on Cabernet Sauvignon (Series M is more Merlot based) with aromas of currant, vanilla, black fruits. On the palate, black currant, herbal and coffee notes comingle with firm tannins, finishing with long length.