Author Archives: Tracy

Ricco Soave

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While Soave was a popular wine during much of the 1960s and 1970s, this easy-drinking white lost its market share to Pinot Grigio, albeit in some cases it was perhaps deserved.

Fast forward four decades and Soave is trying to make a comeback in a big way. Numerous Soave events were held in New York City this Fall, including its appearance as the topic for the Wine Media Guild’s October luncheon. Unable to attend the lunch (see luncheon reports for details), I accepted several samples from a PR agency.

I had requested a sparkling Soave, but, unfortunately, did not receive it among the wines I did. The line-up included a box wine ( Duca del Frassino Garganega/Pinot Grigio blend, IGT – so not technically a Soave), Re Midas Soave and Foscarin  Slavinus Soave Superiore DOCG Classico. I “unwrapped” the box Halloween weekend as I prepared to go to a party and spent a few minutes with the glass, to evaluate the wine. It was, at best, acceptable. My husband tasted it as well and we agreed to pour the remainder down the drain.

A few weeks later, I braved the Re Midas Soave. I opened this wine in advance of dinner, hoping I would enjoy it at least enough to drink with my Indian take-away. After its boxed brother (cousin?), the wine was a pleasant surprise. It had aromas and flavors of citrus, almond and floral.

And, later still, we turned our attention to the Foscarin Slavinus Soave Superiore Classico 2007. Yes, a lengthy name, which held much promise, but, would it deliver? The Superiore term means that the wine has 1% higher alcohol (thus the fruit was riper at harvest) than the non-Superiore designation and is aged for at least six months, while Classico means the wine comes from the heartland of the region. In some Italian areas, the original delimited area has grown substantially and the historic portion of the region has been connoted with the inclusion of the term Classico in the name of the appellation.

The wine did not disappoint. We tasted it with a friend (with both culinary and wine experience) who had dropped by for dinner. The wine was a hit with all three of us and was an interesting foil for our delivered Thai cuisine. It showed some development with notes of almond, citrus and a slight oxidized note. It was well-balanced, with vibrant acidity, medium body and nice length.

So, will Soave make a true comeback? The results are mixed. There are some winners and losers, so Soave deserves a fair shake, but the quality has not yet proven itself across the board.

Que Syrah, Shiraz and Shiraz

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A trio of Syrahs crossed by table this fall (9/22/2010), providing me with the opportunity to explore the similarities and differences among wines from Australia and South Africa.

90+ Cellars Lot 4: Shiraz Viognier 2007, McLaren Vale, Australia, $17.00
92% Shiraz, 8% Viogner; Co-fermented and aged for 14 months in new French oak.
Co-fermented as is done with Côte-Rôtie, this wine displayed aromas of medium+ intensity that included blueberry black cherry, oak, earth and dried herbs. Of the three wines, it had the deepest nose. On the palate, it was full-bodied with medium+/high tannins, medium acidity and flavors of blackberry, cherry, oak, earth and spice, culminating in medium+ length. Overall, the wine showed good fruit concentration along with complexity and elegance.

Rudi Schultz Syrah 2007, Stellenbosch, South Africa, $30.00
100% Syrah; Aged for 20 months in French oak barrels (30% new; 70% second and third fill).
Winemaker and proprietor Rudi Schultz was prompted to go into winemaking after tasting great Northern Rhone wines. Thus, it is no surprise that his wines are crafted in a similar style. Notes of blackberry, earth, rubber, leafyness and meatiness were present on the nose, which was the most savory of the three wines. Another full-bodied wine with medium+ tannins, the palate showed blackberry, blueberry, leather, rubber and meatiness, all of which lingered in the wine’s long length. Overall, the wine was both powerful and aromatic.

Xavier Flouret Waroo Shiraz 2009. Pemberton – Western Australia, $18.00
100% Shiraz; Aged for 8 months in oak barrels (75% French, 25% American oak).
From the cooler area of Western Australia, this wine had blackcherry, vanilla, floral and dried/jammy fruit aromas. Similarly full-bodied to the others, this wine provided medium+ acidity and medium tannins on the palate. Its flavors included blackcherry, herbaceousness, leather, and a tart cherry note in the undercurrent. An earthiness remained throughout the wine’s long length. This wine  had the brightest acidity of the three, most likely due to its origins in a cooler climate.

This was an interesting exercise, showing the influence (and confluence) of grape variety, climate and production on the finished wine.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Starry, Starry Night (December 2010)

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Dom Perignon is said to have uttered the statement, “Come quickly, I am tasting stars,” to his fellow monks, upon discovering Champagne. While he did not actually invent Champagne, Dom Perignon’s work in the cellar helped to better understand how to keep the sparkle in sparkling wine and solidified the roots of the Champagne industry. With the holiday season upon us, it is a time for celebration and for tasting stars ourselves, whether enjoying a holiday dinner or toasting the impending New Year.

Here at Grand Cru Classes, we are celebrating the end of another successful year. Tracy’s appearance on the Wine Portfolio television program aired in early November on CNBC World and featured NYC wine shopping excursions to Sherry-Lehmann, Bottle Rocket and Chelsea Wine Vault. If you missed this episode, you can check out Tracy’s segments on their own (Wine Seller and Brave New World).

In addition, this month finds Tracy off to Italy once again to visit the regions of Collio (near Trieste) and Prosecco (just north of Venice) to learn more about these wonderful wines produced in northeastern Italy.

May this season find you happy and healthy!

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer 

Starry, Starry Night

Sparkling wines always add a festive air to any occasion given that they harness the carbon dioxide produced through a secondary fermentation to capture the bubbles in the bottle. Wines produced in a very special, delimited area in northern France have taken the top title among sparkling wines as evidenced by the misappropriation of Champagne’s moniker for wines produced elsewhere. The chalky soils, cool climate and high acid retention, all lend themselves to creating a unique and well-regarded sparkler that takes significant time and talent to achieve. As a result, the wines of Champagne are highly sought after, with most other high quality sparkling wines emulating the Méthode Champenoise – referred to as the Traditional Method when used outside of the Champagne region. There are numerous factors that ultimately influence what ends up in the glass, but House style from a given producer is most attributed to six factors: terroir, grape varieties used; percentage of older wines used in the blend (aka reserve wines); aging period on the lees (dead yeast cells); dosage (sweetness level added at the end of the process); and the base wine (which depends upon the growing conditions of a given year). When brought together, these factors make up the style of wine.

Raise your glass this season in celebration and may you taste the stars!

Ayala Brut Majeur NV, Champagne, France, $36.00
Recently re-entered into the U.S. market, Ayala is owned by Bollinger. This wine is 45% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier and 35% Chardonnay and spent 2.5 years aging on the dead yeast cells. The nose is full of toast, mushroom and yeast. The light-bodied palate provides high acidity and yeasty and mushroom notes.

Nicholas Feuillatte Brut Rosé NV, Champagne, France, $40.00
Nicholas Feuillatte is a cooperative, owned by the growers who produce the grapes for its wines. Accordingly, these are high quality wines available at a more moderate price point. Notes of berries and toast greet the nose while the rich fruit flavors continue on the palate, culminating in its long length.

Gosset Grande Réserve NV, Champagne, France, $65.00
With a lengthy aging period of 5 years on the lees, this wine is full of brioche, bread and toast on the nose. A super-rich, fuller style of Champagne, the bready, brioche and toast flavors persist on the palate.

Pol Roger Brut 1999, Champagne, France
Reputed to be Winston Churchill’s favorite Champagne, this wine presents very toasted notes on the nose, which give way to lemon/citrus and brioche, which linger on the palate. 

Perrier-Jouet “Fleur de Champagne” Brut Rosé 2002, Champagne, France, $250.00
A splurge, but worth it, this wine is from the outstanding 2002 vintage and is Perrier-Jouet’s tete de cuvée. Pale salmon/onion skin in appearance with aromas of yeast, buttered roll and floral, this wine shows delicate notes of yeast, strawberry, with lively acidity and long length on the palate.

Battle of the California Cabs

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What is the difference between one California Cabernet Sauvignon and another (besides the marketing hype)? Sometimes the best way to find out is to taste a number of wines side by side. Even better, if you can taste them blindly, you will be less influenced by what you think is in the glass and more by what your nose and palate actually tell you about the wine.

With this in mind, I decided to have some fun this past summer and open four different Cabernet Sauvignons I had received as samples. All of the wines were varietally labeled as Cabernet Sauvignons, so at a minimum they were 75% of the named grape. Moreover, they all hailed from the great state of California, but from different AVAs within it. To add to the pleasure, I invited our friends who were visiting for the weekend to join in. All were game, so we lined up four glasses each and poured a taste from each of the bagged and numbered bottles. I asked everyone to remain quiet while they tasted so that each person could develop his or her own opinion of each wine. However, once we had all tasted through everything at least once, comments and critiques were fairgame.

-The Crusher Wilson Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Clarksburg (CA), USA, $11.00
100% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Plum and blackberry aromas. Dry, medium acidity, full body, medium tannins, spice and berry flavors. Some oxidative notes on the nose and palate — possibly a faulted bottle.

-Emblem Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Rutherford (CA), USA, $50.00
100% Cabernet Sauvignon; Aged for 22 months in French oak barrels (66% of which was new).
Medium floral, blackcherry, mint and a hint of bacon on the nose. Fry, medium acidity, full body, medium+ tannins, black berry, spice.

-Emblem Oso Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Rutherford (CA), USA, $50.00
100% Cabernet Sauvignon; Aged for 22 months in French oak barrels (45% of which was new).
Notes of blackberry, blackcherry and euclyptus on the nose. Dry, medium acidity, full body, high tannins, blackcherry, blackberry and peppery flavors.

-Josh Cellars Amber Knolls Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Red Hills (CA), USA, $15.00
100% Cabernet Sauvignon; Barrel aged for 16 months in new American oak and 1-2 year French oak.
Dried floral, herbal notes. Dry, medium acidity, full body, medium+ tannins, blackberry, blackcherry and herbal flavors.

Before the wines were revealed, the consensus was that the Oso Emblem Cabernet Sauvignon wine was the favorite (known as Glass #3 at the time) edging out the other three wines.  The Oso Vineyard wine had longer-lasting appeal with the group, showing a less-fruit forward style and some complex spice notes on the palate, while the non-named vineyard Emblem wine was more fruit forward. The Josh Cellars wine was also well liked by the group, coming in second place.

However, after the wines (and their prices) were identified, the preferences changed somewhat. While the group continued to acknowledge how much it liked the Oso Vineyard Emblem wine, it didn’t feel that they liked it $35.00 more. Accordingly, the Josh Cellars wine seemed to win out in the end, at least in terms of its price to quality ratio.

It was an interesting experience to see that the quality of the higher priced wine was appreciated by the group  — both novices and more experienced tasters alike, but that the lower-priced Josh Cellars wine delivered sufficient quality to make the group happy.

Flights of whites

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In preparation for my AWS Wine Judging Training Program exam, which was held in early November 2010, I spent the summer blind tasting through different flights of wine. It was both a challenge to see which wines I could identify by either the grape variety or the appellation as well as to determine how several wines tasted in comparison to one another. NB: Tasting notes appear below the description of the two blind tasting exercises.

Flight 1: June 5, 2010
This flight included four white wines (all samples).
While I knew the identity of the four wines, I did not know which wine was in which glass. I sat down, began to taste and take notes and made some initial observations. The first glass showed notes of citrus, stone and a hint of butter, which repeated on the palate. The aromas in the second glass were quite pronounced and I detected citrus (specifically, pink grapefruit) and minerality on the nose and the palate. I suspected that this might be the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but as I hadn’t tasted through all four wines yet, I wanted to reserve final judgement until the end. I was glad that I did because the very next glass made it evident that I would have been wrong. Yes, glass # 2 was very concentrated with its citrus notes, but glass #3 had unmistakable herbaceous notes of green pepper. The fourth glass exhibited notes of oak and other barrel-derived aromas and flavors (cinnamon and toasted nuts). Knowing that there was a California Chardonnay in the mix, I attributed this wine, with its oak influence, to be the Chardonnay. Wrong again! Unbeknownst to me, one of the Rueda wines had been produced in a wooded style. The wine was not a Chardonnay, but rather a Verdejo. All in all, it was a very educational experience, helping me to see how my methology was working even if I sometimes arrived at the wrong conclusion. In any case, the wines were all quite enjoyable.

Flight 2: July 24, 2010
This flight included four white wines (all samples).
Again, the identity of the four white wines (all samples) were known to me, but the order in which I tasted them was a mystery. We had another houseful of guests, so they were also invited to participate. They declined the rigor of blind tasting, but enjoyed tasting a few different wines separately. With a pair of Rueda wines and a pair of Gruner Veltliners, I was curious as to whether I would be able to determine which two wines were produced from the same grape variety, even if I wasn’t sure which grape variety that was. The first glass had melon and citrus notes, while the second glass was more complex with earth and herbal aromas and flavors. Glass #3 was again aromatically citrus with lemon and lime, but also showing some minerality. It seemed more similar to glass #1 than to glass #2. The fourth glass offered earth and citrus on the nose and palate and appeared to be showing some development, while the other three glasses were all youthful. While I wasn’t sure if glass #4 was a Verdejo or Gruner Veltliner, I was fairly certain it was the same as glass #2. Upon revealing the wines’ identities, I had correctly identified the pairs, even though I had been unsure as to the actual grape variety.

TASTING NOTES

Flight 1
-Bodega Matarromera Emina Verdejo 2009, Rueda, Spain, $9.00
100% Verdejo; Stainless steel fermentation.
Medium+ aromas of pink grapefruit. Dry, medium acidity, medium body, grapefruit, mineral, pith; good concentration, long length.

-Bodega Matarromera Seleccion Personal Carlos Moro Emina Verdejo 2008, Rueda, Spain, $36.00
100% Verdejo; Fermented and aged for four months in French oak barrels.
Medium notes of toasted nuts, green apple, cinnamon. Dry, medium acidity, full body, apple, pear and an undercurrent of wood/toothpick, nuts; long length.

-Bouchaine Estate Chardonnay 2008, Napa Valley and Carneros (CA), USA, $25.00
100% Chardonnay; 70% barrel-fermented and aged (1-4 year old wood); 30% fermented and aged in stainless steel.
Medium aromas of citrus, stone and a hint of butter. Dry, medium acidity, medium+ body, citrus, stone, pith and medium+ alcohol; long length.

-90+ Cellars Lot 2 Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Marlborough, NZ, $12.00
100% Sauvignon Blanc; Stainless steel fermented.
Medium+ herbal and citrus notes. Dry, medium+ acidity, medium body, citrus, pepper, green pepper; long length.

Flight 2
-Javier Sanz Villa Narcisa, Rueda, Spain, $16.50
100% Verdejo; Stainless steel fermentation.
Medium aromas of melon and grapefruit. Dry, medium+ acidity, melon, citrus, pith; medium length.

-Laurent V SINGING Gruner Veltliner 2009, Niederösterreich, Austria, $15.00
100% Gruner Veltliner; Stainless steel fermentation.
Earth and citrus aromas. Dry, medium+ acidity, lime, pith, herbal flavors; medium+ length.

-Laurenz V CHARMING Gruner Veltliner 2006, Kamptal, Austria, $27.00
100% Gruner Veltliner; Stainless steel fermentation.
Aromas of grapefruit and showing some development with notes of damp earth. Dry, medium acidity, earth, melon and grapefruit; medium+ length.
This was our favorite Gruner Veltliner of the flight.

-Pagos del Rey Analivia Verdejo, $11.00
100% Verdejo; Stainless steel fermentation.
Medium notes of lemon, lime, minerality. Dry, medium+/high acidity, lime, minerality; long length.
This was our favorite Verdejo of the flight.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Talking Turkey (November 2010)

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We don’t know about you, but we find it hard to believe that November has arrived with Thanksgiving just around the corner (wasn’t it just July?).

Fortunately, we had a wonderful October, which included a fabulous trip to Italy’s Campania region, with visits to Mastroberardino and Feudi di San Gregorio. We’ll share additional details in a future newsletter.

This month finds Tracy presenting two sessions (Italian Sparklers and South African Wines) at the American Wine Society’s annual conference, while Jared finished up our public North Fork schedule this weekend with our From Mystery to Mastery class. But don’t despair; you can contact us for private classes and events year round at your place or ours.

As you prepare for the holiday, we hope you have a lot to be thankful for and wish you a very Happy and healthy Thanksgiving!

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer 

       and 

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer 

 

Talking Turkey

While turkey (the poultry) may grace your table soon enough, you may not have thought about setting your table with wines from Turkey (the country). Yet, there are some wonderful wines being produced there that are worth checking out.

Kavaklidere was Turkey’s first privately-owned, wine producer when it was established in 1929 in Ankara. Today, Kavaklidere is Turkey’s largest producer and the only one to import its wines to the U.S. (at least for now). Despite its size, Kavaklidere is considered to be the best producer in Turkey. Some of this can be attributed to a decision that the company made in 1993, a watershed moment that winemaker, Ali Basman, points to when Kavaklidere “decided to increase the quality” of its wines through improved technology and viticulture. As a result, the company has made significant investments to plant new vineyards and build new winery facilities, planting 170 ha at their Côtes d’Avanos Vineyard in central Anatoila that year. In 2005, an additional 200 ha site was identified in Pendore due to its tufa and volcanic soil, good diurnal variation and 3,000′ plateau.

Since 2008, Kavaklidere has partnered with famed enologist Stéphane Derenoncourt to focus on creating quality wines with Turkish grape varieties. Current plantings include 550 ha, which consist of indigenous varieties along with international varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Carignan. The company also maintains three winery facilities located throughout the country. Kavaklidere produces two grape juices as well as 43 wines, which range from still to sparkling and fortified and dry to sweet, with 20% of its products exported to foreign markets. With such a diversity of wines (although admittedly not all are imported to the U.S.), you are sure to find one that you’d happily serve with this year’s turkey. 

Wine Tasting Notes


Egeo Rose 2009, Aegean/Denizli and Pendore, Turkey
A blend of Cal Karasi (60%), Syrah (25%) and Grenache (15%), this wine was macerated for a brief period, producing a bright, pink hue and aromas of strawberry and floral notes. It is dry on the palate with vibrant acidity, showing strawberry with an herbal undercurrent.Cote d’Avanos Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Cappodocia, Turkey
This wine has a pronounced nose of lemon, lemon pepper and minerality. On the palate, it is dry with medium+ acidity and notes of lemon, stone and slight yeastiness, the latter a result of the15 months the wine spent aging on the lees (spent yeast cells). 

Pendore Okuzgozu 2008, Elazig, Turkey
Produced from 100% of the indigenous Okozgoku, this wine spends 12 months in French oak barrels. It is floral with red fruits such as raspberry, with moderate tannins, medium body and an undercurrent of bitter chocolate. 

Prestige Kalecik Karasi 2005, Ankara, Turkey
With its herbaceous and vegetal aromas, medium+ acidity and notes of bright red fruit, this wine, produced from 100% Kalecki Karasi, seemed to be most similar to Pinot Noir, but its full body pointed to its true identity. 

Beaujolais Nouveau 2010 arrives with Molly Sims, Franck Duboeuf and Peter Deutsch

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Molly Sims, Franck Duboeuf and Peter Deutsch welcome the Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2010...cirque style.

Like clockwork, the Beuajolais Nouveau arrived on the third Thursday of November, attended by a circus-style celebration for the 2010 harvest. Actress, model and jewelry designer, Molly Sims, was on hand to toast the first glass from Georges Duboeuf, with George’s son, Franck, serving as Master of Ceremonies under the big top at District 36. The luncheon, prepared by chef Marc Murphy (of Landmarc and now also Benchmarc catering), was accompanied by the Beaujolais Nouveau 2010 and the Morgon Jean Descombes 2009. Other Beaujolais crus were available at the self-pour bar during the initial reception. Overhead, attendees were treated to aerialists dangling from silks, while jugglers, magicians and contortionists dazzled at eye-level.

Beaujolais, whether Nouveau or not, is a wine made in the southernmost part of Burgundy from the Gamay grape. While Gamay is not most people’s favorite grape variety — often associated with prejorative aromas of bubble gum and banana, this year’s wine showed none of these characteristics and was simply pleasing with its ripe cherry fruit and soft tannins. And, it went nicely with the meal.

As a wine, Beaujolais Nouveau has both its share of proponents and detractors, but for me, it is more about the symbolism than the wine itself. Here we are in November, only a few weeks after the harvest and we have much to be thankful for and much to celebrate. Along comes Beaujolais Nouveau, ready to honor the year’s work. Most wines are still preparing for the party (and may take years to do so as they dress in layers of oak, vanilla and toast), but Beaujolais Nouveau and other wines produced in a nouveau-style are not only fully dressed, they are prepared to dance until dawn.

No, it is not a wine on which to meditate, but sometimes all you need is a simple glass of wine, good food and good friends in order to sit back and enjoy the good life. Salut!

Juggler at Beaujolais Nouveau celebration.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Bubbles Born in the USA: American Sparklers (October 2010)

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We have had a busy, but productive, fall season thus far. Our wine salon, From Mystery to Mastery, conducted as part of the East End’s first HARVEST Wine Auction & Celebration was met with great success as was Tracy’s Sex, Wine & Chocolate event with certified sexuality educator, Amy Levine, held at the beautiful Coco de Mer erotica and lingerie store.

Tracy will be teaching at the International Wine Center later this month and at NYU for three classes in November. Her session on Italian Sparkling wines, to be presented at the American Wine Society’s (AWS) annual conference is sold out with 90 registrants and only a few seats remain for her session on South African Wines.

In honor of the AWS’ conference location in Cincinnati, OH – what we’ve dubbed, “the other Cin city” and birthplace of America’s first sparkling wine – we bring you the history of Nicholas Longworth this month.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer 

       and 

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer 

Bubbles Born in the USA: America Sparkles

America has long had a love affair with sparkling wine, yet, while many Americans would be quick to identify Dom Perignon as an iconic figure of the Champagne region, few would know that they owe a debt of sparkling gratitude to Nicholas Longworth who created the first American sparkling wine – a Sparkling Catawba, in 1842.

Born in Newark, New Jersey, in 1783, this “crazy Jerseyman” stood somewhere between 5′-1″ and 5′-3″ and arrived in Cincinnati in 1804 (one year after Ohio had attained statehood), at the age of 21. After studying law for six months (there were apparently a lot fewer laws back then), he established a law practice.
 

Concurrent with his legal work, Longworth made shrewd investments in land, beginning in 1820. These real estate investments permitted Longworth to indulge in a new passion for horticulture and viticulture, pursuing the latter as a hobby as he began to plant vines along the Ohio River. 

His first attempts were with vitis vinifera, which, having been planted prior to the discovery of phylloxera, not surprisingly died shortly thereafter. Longworth then tried his hand at the American species, vitis labrusca. Specifically, he became interested in the Catawba grape (native to North Carolina), which was hearty enough to withstand the harsh winters of Ohio, planting these vines in 1825. He produced his first wine three years later, declared himself satisfied and subsequently quit his law practice, eventually crafting a sparkling version of his beloved Catawba.

But fortunately, Nicholas wasn’t the only one who admired his slightly sweet, sparkling wines. His wine was enjoyed not only throughout the United States, but also abroad in England and France. It was further lauded by poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow who immortalized Longworth’s wine in his, “Ode to Catawba” published during the 1850s.

Longworth’s success eventually established him as the “wealthiest man in Ohio.” In fact, “…in 1850 his taxes rated higher than any other man in the United States except William B. Astor…” at an annual bill of $17,000 and, at his death, his wealth was estimated to be $15 million. (Harper’s Weekly)

In addition to being an accomplished wine producer, Longworth was a generous person and used his wealth to help others in his community. He provided work for those in need; built housing above his wine cellars for indigent laborers; and distributed bread to the hungry from his home every Monday morning.

Longworth’s efforts also helped to cement Ohio as a key winegrowing area in the United States. By 1860, Longworth had 3,000 acres of vines and was producing 570,000 gallons of wine, annually bottling 150,000 bottles. During this period, Ohio led the nation in the production of wine, supplying one-third of the nation’s wine and out-producing California by two to one. However, this boom was short-lived as Ohio wine production declined in both the wake of viticultural disease and a loss of labor as Ohioans left to fight in the Civil War.

Yet Ohio was not alone in its pursuit of bubbles. In 1855, Benjamin Davis Wilson, who was to become the first mayor of Los Angeles, was the first to produce a sparkling wine in California. And, across the country, a “champagne” industry was started in Hammondsport in New York’s Finger Lakes region in 1860. Crafting sparklers from Delaware, Iona, Elvira and Catawba grapes, the Pleasant Valley and Taylor Wine Companies set about to establish “American champagne [as] the leading wine of the region.” (Reichl, 14) 

While most of this early success with sparkling wine was brought to an end in the 1920s as America pursued Prohibition, by 1933, “[t]he few surviving Eastern wineries, principally sparkling-wine producers of New York State [namely Great Western and Gold Seal], soon found their bearings again.” (Wagner, 61)

And, only a few decades later, a renaissance would take place, with Jack and Jamie Davies re-establishing a winery at the old Schramsburg estate in Napa Valley, CA. With a focus on quality, not quantity, the Davies’ produced a Blanc de Blancs, which they released in 1967, becoming “America’s first commercially produced Chardonnay-based brut sparkling wine.” (Sawyer) Schramsburg’s reputation was assured when, in 1972, their sparkling wine was poured at the “Toast to Peace” dinner with President Nixon and Premier Chou En-lai in Bejing, China. Their wines have been poured in the White House ever since.

Today, sparkling wine is produced in all fifty states, and, while many of these producers are local in scope, leading American sparklers are found in California, Oregon, New York, Virginia, New Mexico, Pennsylvania, Delaware and Massachusetts, and are often national and even international in their reach. Here, many serious winemakers are crafting world-class wines utilizing the Traditional Method of production, with ultra-premium producers focused on estate-grown grapes and the production of vintage-dated wines.

Harper’s Weekly Journal of Civilization, Nicholas Longworth Obituary, published 3/7/1863.

Reichel, Ruth ed., History in a Glass: Sixty Years of Wine Writing from Gourmet. Random House: New York, 2006 [Frank Schoonmaker, Return to the Native, p. 14]

Sawyer, Christopher. “The Best of Both Worlds.” The tasting panel, December 2009.

Wagner, Philip M.  Grapes Into Wine, Knopf Press, 1976

  
  

Producer Profiles

Biltmore Estate
Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina is “the most visited winery in the United States,” seeing one million visitors annually. The 125,000 acre estate is the site of George Vanderbilt (grandson of Cornelius)’s dream home designed by noted architect Richard Morris Hunt. The Château Reserve Blanc de Blancs is 100% Chardonnay from fruit sourced throughout North Carolina and is aged 24-30 months before disgorging.

Chateau Frank
In 1962, Dr. Konstantin Frank established Vinifera Wine Cellars in Hammondsport, New York and earned a reputation for his Rieslings and “champagnes.” The 1999 Prestige Cuvee is made with 100% estate-grown fruit, a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier and then aged for more than five years. 

Gruet Winery
The Gruet family of Champagne, France established their Albuquerque, NM winery in 1984. The 2004 Blanc de Blancs remained en tirage for a minimum of four years with the last bottles reaching anywhere up to five years.

Iron Horse Vineyards
When Iron Horse’s founding partners, Audrey and Barry Sterling, first saw the 300 acre property in 1976, it was the most westerly vineyard in Sonoma, but the Sterlings knew they wanted to grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and that this was the perfect climate in which to do so. The 2005 Classic Vintage Brut is among the most traditional of their sparklers, made from 25% Chardonnay and 75% Pinot Noir and aged for three years. 

Kluge Estate
Kluge Estate was established in 1999 in Carter’s Mountain on the edge of Blue Ridge Mountains in Charlottesville, VA by Patricia Kluge whose dream was to build a wine region. The 2007 SP Rosé, made from 95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir, was aged for 21-24 months and won at the Monticello Cup in 2010 and took home Silver medals at both the San Diego Wine & Spirits National Women’s Wine Competitions.
 

L. Mawby
Larry Mawby planted vines on Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula in 1973, with his first harvest in 1978. His Talismon is made from estate grown fruit picked as a field blend of Vignoles, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay.

Soter Vineyards
Although he is more known for his Pinot Noirs, Tony Soter chose to make a sparkler because he is a “sucker for a winegrowing challenge.” Produced from 100% estate grown fruit, the Soter Rosé is a 50-50% blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and spent at least three years on the lees.
 


Troutman Vineyards
Building on Ohio’s wine legacy, Deanna and Andy Troutman established Troutman Vineyards in 1997. Their Cuveé D, a brut style sparkler made from hybrid variety, Vidal Blanc, won a Bronze Medal at the 2009 Ohio Wine Competition in the Hybrid Sparkling Wine category. 

Chenin Shines Brightly

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AWS Tasting at Grand Cru Classes ~ October 2010

The tasting featured a collection of Chenin Blancs from South Africa and ranged in price from $5.00/bottle to $55.00/bottle. The majority of the wines were dry, but the final wine was a noble late harvest Chenin Blanc

The crowd favorites, based on the AWS evaluation and scoring (20 point scale) were as follows:

Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc 2008, Stellenbosch, South Africa – coming in with an average score of 15.5; I had it at 16
At $13.00, this was a lot of wine for the money – complex aromas of tropical fruit, botrytis and lanolin, richness on the palate, medium+ length

At 16.2, Ken Forrester’s FMC 2007, Stellenbosch, South Africa neared the top of the list, but, at $55.00, the group was less inclined to purchase it. Aromas of nuts, yeast, botrytis and spice; lush tropical fruit, oak, spice, with a caramelized note in the long length.

The highest scoring wine of the night was the Darling Cellars Onyx (Noble Late Harvest) 2008, with an average 16.4. $20.00 for a 375 ml bottle – not too bad for a dessert wine, especially one with the complexity and balance that this one showed. Aromas of honey, licorice, spice and apricot; medium sweet on the palate with honey and tangerine; long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: All in the Family (September 2010)

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September 2010

Summer has not yet quite finished out its tenure, but the 2010 harvest is already in full swing. Having been spared from the potentially devastating Hurricane Earl, many of the white grapes have begun to be picked and brought into the winery, while the red grapes will remain to finish ripening for a few more weeks.

Right on cue, the East End’s first HARVEST Wine Auction & Celebration will take place on September 24-25, 2010. As a reminder, Grand Cru Classes will offer its “From Mystery to Mastery” class through the Wine Salon as part of this two-day event.

The HARVEST event and the actual harvest signal autumn’s impending return, which also finds children returning to school this month and answering the age old question of what they did on their summer vacations. With family stories in mind, this month we look at the Concannon Family and its history.

And, we encourage you to return to school this fall as well…wine school that is. Tracy will reprise her Sex, Wine & Chocolate event on October 5, 2010 with nationally recognized sex coach and certified sexuality educator, Amy Levine, at the amazing Coco de Mer erotica and lingerie store. Savor every sip, taste and touch more fully through this decadent tasting of wine paired with Bond Street chocolates, which integrates a unique look at the intersection of these three joys in life. Call the store at 212-966-9069 to reserve your spot.

For tamer, but equally wine savvy, classes, turn to Tracy’s classes, which will be offered NYU’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies. She is also teaching the WSET Intermediate Certificate at the International Wine Center on Mondays, starting October 18, 2010.

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

All in the Family

Two Generations of the Concannon Family

I first met the Concannon family in a grocery store in California. No, I didn’t have the pleasure of meeting a member of the family, that came later, but yes, you can actually buy wine at the same time that you stock up on those other staples in life – milk, bread, cereal and ice cream – at the supermarket in some states. Rather, a family vacation had brought by parents, sister and I to San Diego and we were browsing the wine aisle in search of an inexpensive wine to enjoy with dinner. I’m not sure what drew us to the Concannons, but we picked up the bottle, placed it in the cart along with a rotisserie chicken and sides and headed back to our studio room at the hotel. We were not disappointed.

This past summer, I actually had the opportunity to meet John Concannon, the fourth generation of Concannons to run his family business, for dinner at Brasserie Ruhlmann, with his wines poured throughout the meal. I was very impressed with John and the wines, both of which were (food)-friendly and approachable. Over the course of dinner, John shared his family’s history with me, further adding to my appreciation of Concannon.

In addition to having wine in their blood, the Concannon family is also proud of its Irish heritage, with founder James Concannon becoming the first Irish immigrant to establish a winery in the U.S. John owes his family’s legacy to Great Grandmother Ellen who devised to keep her husband closer to home. Born on St. Patrick’s Day, James initially moved to the U.S. and found work in the rubber stamp business, but his wife, Ellen, insisted he stay in the area and make wine for the church instead. Following his wife’s advice, James bought 47 acres of land in California’s Livermore Valley and planted vines in 1883.

Building on their lengthy history, in the 1950s, the family was the first to hire a female winemaker. And, in 1961, the Concannons celebrated both the arrival of John and the launch of America’s first varietally-labeled Petite Sirah. Today, Concannon is the oldest, continuing operating U.S. winery under the same family and heralds its 127th harvest this year. John’s niece, Shannon, is already eagerly asking her dad questions about the wine business, ready to take the helm of her family’s venture, although it is expected that she will at least complete grammar school before doing so.

While Concannon’s Reserve and Heritage wines are only available at the winery, two other tiers of Concannon wines are widely available:

  • Concannon Selected Vineyards – grapes sourced from California’s Central Coast; $10.00 and under
  • Concannon Limited Release – comparable to the winery’s Reserve wines; includes the Conservancy wines, which are sourced from Livermore Valley vineyards that have been preserved as agricultural land in perpetuity; $15.00

Tasting Notes

Concannon Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $10.00
Mildly aromatic with aromas of grapefruit and lime, this wine is dry, with restrained fruit flavors of grapefruit, lime, citrus pith and stone, anchored with vibrant acidity.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Chardonnay 2008, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Aged in French and American oak barrels, the nose is greeted with slight toast and nut notes, along with melon. The dry palate presents with medium+ acidity and flavors of melon, citrus, mineral and noticeable, but well-integrated oak. It paired beautifully with a blue crab salad.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Merlot 2007, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Sourced from a cool area, this Merlot is bright and fruity with aromas of plum, cherry and herbs. Medium acidity and medium tannins join the dry palate, which offers black cherry and leafy notes.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Produced from 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Syrah, this wine is dry, with medium acid, full body and medium, ripe tannins. Aromas and flavors of blueberry and spice are joined with a hint of dark cocoa.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Petite Sirah 2007, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Deep aromas of blackberry, smoke herald this dry wine, which has medium acidity, a full body, and notes of blackberry, smoke and oak wrapped around finely-grained tannins.