Author Archives: Tracy

Zen and the Art of Cabernet Sauvignon

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At 25, Laurel Glen’s owner belonged to a Zen Buddhist colony in Sonoma County. Although he already possessed a master’s degree in religion and was a professional musician, he wasn’t certain what his ultimate path would be. Among his first tasks at the colony, Patrick Campbell was assigned to tend the community vineyards, which ignited his passion for viticulture.

Three years later, Campbell had left the Buddhists to pursue his new path and, with the help of a small inheritance, purchased vineyard land in the Sonoma Mountain AVA, which had originally been planted in the late 1880s.

Patrick spent his initial years selling grapes to Chateau St. Jean and Kenwood until the lure of making his own wine became too powerful to ignore. He experimented with a barrel or two at a time until he felt confident that he could make wine on a larger scale. Consequently, he produced his first vintage in 1981—the Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon.

In fact, Cabernet Sauvignon is all that Campbell does. More specifically, Campbell’s vineyards are planted with the Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon clone, which was certified by the University of California at Davis.

While Cabernet Sauvignon is more commonly associated with Napa than with Sonoma, this grape variety can equally thrive in the western county. As a mountain appellation, the grapes are planted at an elevation of 800-1,000 feet. Here, the climate is slightly cooler, with the grapes receiving sunlight earlier in the day and avoiding the hotter afternoon rays of the valley floor. Thus, the height and exposure permit the grapes to retain acidity well and, ultimately, keep the wines balanced. Campbell’s light hand with French oak further adds to the elegance of these wines.

This was evidenced at a recent vertical tasting in New York. While the inaugural 1981 showed signs on age with its brick rim and developing aromas, it was still alive with medium+ acidity and notes of herbs, spice, cedar and blackberry on both the nose and palate.  Subsequent wines tasted at the event showed a similar hallmark, although vintage variation and a slight style change over the years was evident.

Today, Laurel Glen includes 16 planted acres and produces 1,300-1,500 cases annually. A second wine, Counter Point, debuted in 1987 as an earlier-maturing option, and accounts for an additional 700-900 cases. Wine that doesn’t meet the standards for either the flagship wine or Counter Point is sold off as private label or on the bulk market, maintaining Campbell’s commitment to quality.

Thirty vintages on, Campbell has much of which to be proud. Laurel Glen was included in Paul Lukac’s book, Great Wines of America: The Top Forty Vintners, Vineyards, and Vintages (talk about a short list) and has developed a loyal following. So much so that he has been able to succeed without submitting wines to publications for review.

However, for Campbell, his path with Laurel Glen has come to an end. Instead, with Campbell’s recent sale of the winery, Bettina Sichel picks up where he leaves off, continuing her own family’s path in wine (she represents the 5th generation to work in the wine industry).

Sichel’s current journey began in November 2008 when a conversation with a friend ended with his statement, “We should buy a winery together some day.” After hanging up the phone, Sichel realized that it was the perfect time to consider such an opportunity and the two went on to raise money from investors to help move their goal forward. By July 2009, an action plan was in place, which included what they were looking for in a winery and why. Knowing that they wanted a winery with name recognition and a good history, Sichel went out to find a winery that fit the bill. After discovering that they couldn’t afford Napa, Sichel extended the search and found Laurel Glen to be a perfect fit. She acknowledges that it wasn’t easy and that she had to obtain a bank loan on top of the financing to make the dream a reality. However, she notes that buying Laurel Glen “is the culmination of everything I’ve worked for.”

Sichel is joined by winemaker Randall Watkins, consultant winemaker, David Ramey and viticulturist, Phil Coturri. Under Coturri’s tutelage, the vineyards are being farmed organically, along with a focus on dry farming, a more open canopy and fewer clusters per shoot.

But, despite these changes, Sichel holds fast to Laurel Glen’s illustrious history and stressed that the vibrant acidity that is characteristic of Laurel Glen will remain untouched. With Sichel at the helm, the winery is poised for continued success.

Grand Cru Grape Vine: Happy Mutter’s Day (May 2011)

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Happy Mutter’s Day! The word Mutter is German for mother and, with Mother’s Day on May 8th, and our focus on Germany this month, we’re sending you a bilingual greeting.

This month, Jared and Tracy will once again participate in TasteCamp East. The 2011 itinerary includes visits to the Niagara wine regions on both the Canadian and American sides. Then, in June, Tracy will travel to the Kingdom of Navarra in Spain’s Basque region where she will taste the wines and cuisine.

Public classes begin June 25th when we’ll kickoff the season with a wine class and concert. This special evening will feature a wine class on Australian wine, followed by a concert and story-telling by Australian folksinger, Susanna Carman, as part of her U.S. tour. Enjoy wines and cheeses as you listen to Susanna sing and share her tales of living Down Under.

Other special events for the season include a wine and chocolate tasting with Roxanne Browning of Exotic Chocolate Tasting (July 17), and a class on Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, with high end wines such as Diamond Creek and Far Niente (August 14). Visit our website to sign up for these and all other classes.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

Happy Mutter’s Day: The Wines of Germany
A young engineer accompanied his boss on a business trip to Germany in the 1970s. One evening at dinner, their German hosts were keen to show off the quality of their wines and selected a special bottle from the restaurant’s wine list. The red wine was presented to the boss for tasting, with all eyes anxiously awaiting his reaction. The gentleman raised the glass to his lips, took a sip and declared, with his face revealing displeasure, “It’s too sweet!”

Whether true or not, for a long time, many people attributed all German wines with being too sweet. However, at least these days, the reality is that Germany produces a wide range of high quality wines from bone dry to lusciously sweet, so there are wines to suit a variety of palates and occasions. Germany’s association with sweet wines stems from its focus on the ripeness levels in its grapes. While we generally say that grapevines grow between 30-50o north and south of the equator, vineyards in Germany can be found as far north as the 52nd parallel. Given the northerly locale, reaching full grape ripeness is no easy task. Without the steep (often 45o), south-east facing slopes along the Rhine River and its tributaries, grapegrowing would not be possible in this area. As a result of this slope and orientation, the sun’s rays hit the water and reflect back onto the grapes, permitting them to reach full maturity. Consequently, such ripeness is prized and, much of the German classification is based upon ripeness/sugar levels at harvest.

This ripeness classification, whose designation is restricted to Germany’s quality wine category  – Qualitatswein mit Pradikat (Quality wine with attributes), starts from the least ripe, Kabinett, followed by Spatlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese, in ascending order of ripeness. You can expect wines of Auslese level and above to be noticeably sweet, but Kabinett and Spatlese wines may be dry or off-dry (slightly sweet). One clue is to look at the alcohol level; a lower level (10% and under) will generally suggest a sweeter wine since not all of the sugar was converted into alcohol. Another is to look for the word Trocken, which is German for dry, or the terms Classic and Selection, both of which indicate dry-style wines. Those with a little sweetness will pair brilliantly with Asian or other spicy cuisine as well as fatty poultry dishes. Auslese level and sweeter wines are best saved for dessert or as accompaniment to blue cheeses, but while they do retain high levels of residual sugar, they are beautifully balanced with high acidity. This is particularly true of German Rieslings.

And, as a final note, Germany is not a one-grape wonder. In fact, Riesling’s spiritual home is also home to Pinot Noir, Gewurztraminer and a myriad of other Germanic grape varieties.

Wine Tasting Notes

Bernhard Huber, Alte Reben Spatburgunder Trocken  2007, Baden, Germany, $75.00
From the southernmost and warmest region (Baden), this wine is produced from old vines (20-40 years of age) and presented a complex nose of wet leaves, vegetal notes and cherries. These flavors continued on the dry palate with vibrant acidity, low tannins and an extremely long finish. In a word, stunning!

Grafen Neipperg, Lemberger Trocken, 2008, Württenberg, Germany, $22.00
This estate is owned by Count (Graf) Neipperg and is located in the Württenberg region which is predominantly (70%) planted to red grapes, cherry, clove and vanilla greeted the nose . The dry palate had medium+ acidity, light tannins with flavors of bitter cherry, cloves and vanilla.

Johannishof, Charta Riesling, 2008, Rheingau, Germany, $22.00
Johannishof is owned by the Eser family, which has a winemaking history dating from 1685. This wine showed aromas of spice, floral, pineapple and peach. Dry with just a hint of ripeness, this wine has high acidity and concentrated fruit flavors of pineapple and tropical fruit, along with floral notes, all of which remain throughout the wine’s long length.

Liebfrauenstift Riesling Trocken 2009, Rheinhessen, Germany, $22.00
Originally cultivated by Capuchin monks, Peter Joseph Vlackenberg purchased a stake in the property in 1808, with his family currently owning 90% of the site. With citrus and stone aromas on the nose, this wine is dry with piercing acidity. Citrus, pith, stone and slight spice linger on the palate with long length.

Schloss Saarstein, Pinot Blanc, 2008, Mosel, Germany, $15.00
This estate is located on slate soils overlooking the Saar River. A refreshing wine, with good fruit concentration, this wine displayed floral, pear and melon notes on the nose. These notes were joined by some minerality and a hint of spice on the slightly off-dry palate with medium+ length.

Tasting Note Round-Up

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Sometimes, okay, often, I find that I have fallen behind on tasting various samples and subsequently publishing my notes. Accordingly, here is a round up of wines tasted in the past 18 months, with apologies to the sample senders for the delay.

Andeluna Cellars Celebración Reserve 2006, Tupungato, Argentina, $20.00
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot; 14.8% abv
The first vintage release of this wine, it is created as a Bordeaux-style wine, emulating the Left Bank in terms of the blend, but produced in a distinctly Argentine wine style.
Aromas: Blackberry, blackcherry, vanilla and cedar
Flavors: Very ripe fruit – blackberry, vanilla, cedar, slight spice
Structure: Medium+ acidity; ripe tannins; high alcohol; medium+ length
Conclusion: Very fruit forward, but with some complexity. The alcohol was slightly hot, but otherwise, the wine was balanced.

Folie à Deux Chardonnay 2009, Napa Valley, CA, $18.00
Winemaking: Just over 50% was fermented in small oak barrels. Post-fermentation, the wine was aged in French & American oak for six months.
Aromas: Butterscotch, vanilla, apple and peach
Flavors: Apple, nectarine, vanilla, spice, butterscotch and wood undercurrent
Structure: Medium+ acidity, full-bodied, medium+ alcohol, medium length
While the oak treatment is noticeable, it is well-integrated and wine shows some complexity.

Foppiano Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Russian River Valley, CA, $18.00
Winemaking: Stainless steel fermentation
Aromas: Tropical fruit and slight grassy note
Flavors: Lush fruit – peach, grapefruit, pineapple
Structure: Dry with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, slight heat and long length

Foppiano Rosé 2009, Russian River Valley, CA, $15.00
55% Petite Sirah and 45% Pinot Noir
12 hours of skin contact, then bled off (saignée method); 6 months aging in neutral French oak barrels
Aromas: berry, floral and blossom
Flavors: Herbal and strawberry
Structure: Bone dry, medium+ acidity and high alcohol
A clean and crisp wine with nice fruit concentration, but slightly hot (not surprising given the 14.2% abv).

Make Mine a Malbec

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The Wine Media Guild hosted Jean-Lous Carbonnier, representative of the International Malbec Association and Ricardo Giadorou of Argentina’s Dolium Winery at its November lunch. Featuring a tasting of Argentine and Cahors Malbecs, attendees had the opportunity to taste and compare these wines.

The Malbec grape originated in France and is currently grown in Bordeaux, the Loire Valley and Cahors. Wines from France’s Cahors region must be produced from a minimum of 70% Malbec, but Merlot and Tannat may also be a part of the blend. Most domains are modest in size, averaging 37 acres. The AOC was established in 1971, which helped to stimulate a rebirth of the area’s vineyards.

Despite Malbec’s association with France, it is planted in much greater numbers in Argentina, having arrives in the 1880s. The Dolium Winery is based in the cru of Lucan de Cuyo and is a gravity flow winery having been built underground. Fifteen percent of the winery’s 200,000 hectares are devoted to Malbec. Ricardo explained that in Argentina’s climate, Malbec was an extremely versatile grape, capable of producing concentrated wines. Compared to their Cahors counterparts, the Argentine Malbecs possess softer and sweeter tannins.

During the tasting, most people agreed that the Argentine Malbecs were much more fruit forward with black fruit and ripe tannins. Conversely, the Cahors wines were denser with tighter tannins and less fruit. A number of the Cahors showed notes of wet leaves and tar. A last minute addition to the tasting were three wines from Viu Manent’s Chilean properties. These wines seemed to be a cross between the Argentine and Cahors styles, with a certain elegance to their meaty and black and red fruit notes. The lone rose, which was from Dolium, was dry, yet fruity, with floral, berries and slight grapefruit pith note in the undercurrent, was a refreshing change to what was otherwise a line up of all red wines.

In addition, I had occasion to blind taste two Argentine Malbecs at home.

Redwood Creek Malbec 2009, Mendoza, Argentina
The wine had aromas of spice, black and bramble fruit and vanilla, with blackberry, blueberry, spice and oak on the palate. It had good acidity, with medium+ body, medium tannins, medium alcohol and medium+ length.

Layer Cake Malbec 2008, Mendoza, Argentina
This wine displayed smoke, oak, blackfruits, and faint notes of meat and mint on the nose, which persisted on the palate with a slightly jammy character to the fruit. A full-bodied wine, it had soft tannins. The length was medium+ in duration, but the high alcohol left a burn at the back of the palate in the finish.

The Redwood Creek wine showed brighter fruit and a more balanced alcohol, while the Layer Cake was more concentrated with riper, jammy bramble fruit.

 

Can California wine age?

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Can California wine age? The answer was a resounding “Yes!” when members of the Wine Media Guild had the luxury of tasting through several older vintages of wine from a number of California’s centenary wineries.

The wineries represented at the tasting included Charles Krug, Simi, Schramsberg Vineyards, Wente Vineyards, Buena Vista, Beaulieu and Gundlach Bundschu, with both newer vintages and library wines on hand to taste.

Most surprising was a 1935 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon, which, while not fresh, was still quite drinkable. A second treasure unearthed from Simi’s cellars was a 1935 Tokay dessert wine. Tasters seemed equally pleased with the 1966 Charles Krug Vintage Selection Cabernet Sauvignon.

Guest speaker, Peter Mondavi, whose grandparents purchased the winery in 1943, was on hand to provide some history and answer questions.

But, as the event wore on, many wondered if the recent vintages would fare as well as those of yesteryear, with a particular focus on alcohol levels. The Krug Vintage Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 1966 had only 12% abv compared to the 15% abv of the 2008 vintage of the same wine.

Peter explained that pre-1980, many of the vines were virused, which effected the plants’ ability to conduct photosynthesis. As a result, sugar accumulation was slow, but physiological ripeness (tannins and other phenolic compounds) was sound. Accordingly, these wines were produced at an average of 12% alcohol by volume.

In contrast, current California vines are extremely healthy and very efficient at producing sugars and at a fast rate. Consequently, these vines have high alcohol levels (14% and upwards). Moreover, with the rapid sugar development, the natural acidity levels are lower than in the past. With their high alcohol, coupled with lower acidity, it was surmised that today’s wines will not be as longlived. Of course, only time will tell.

The Circle of Life

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From year to year, winemakers get the opportunity to begin again and make a new wine from a new harvest. Each vintage sharing some of the same elements as the one before, yet making its own mark on the world.

The newest vintage of wines from Bordeaux’s Right Bank (Rive Droite) was premiered at a Le Cercle Rive Droite tasting in March. Accordingly, barrel samples from 2010 were on offer from chateau in Pomerol, St. –Emilion and other Right Bank appellations.

Baronne Guichard owns three separate properties, each with a unique terroir – Chateau Vray Croix de Gay in Pomoerol with gravely soils; Chateau Siaurac in Lalande de Pomerol with clays and gravels; and Chateau Le Prieure in St.-Emilion with soils of limestone and clay. Accordingly, the ability to do a mini-vertical and mini-horizontal tasting presented itself.

Proprietor Paul Goldschmidt describes the Chateau Le Prieure wine as being feminine and notes that the slopes are south-facing. The 2010 was very mineral in character with herbal notes (which Paul qualified as “Herbs de Provence, but under the shade”) and red fruit. The 2008 was similarly herbal with red fruit, but the minerality wasn’t present.

Paul characterizes the wines from Chateau Siaurac as being more masculine and explained that its appellation is known as the “poor man’s Pomerol” due to its lower price. The 2010 was intense with a concentrated nose of blackcherry, while the 2008 had mellowed and showed more red than black fruit.

The sample of Chateau Vray Croix de Gay has a slightly different make-up than its brethren, featuring more Merlot (90% vs. 80%) and thus less Cabernet Franc. The 2010 was concentrated with floral aromas while the palate had firm, tight tannins, blackcherry, some spice and long length. Similarly, the 2008 was rich, lush and ripe, but with the flavors and structure more closely knitted together with time.

Grand Cru Grape Vine: There’s More to NZ than SB (March 2011)

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Two weeks ago, we were tasting wine at the Pegasus Bay Winery in Waipara on New Zealand’s South Island. Thirty miles away, a major earthquake hit the city of Christchurch, with a magnitude of 6.3. We felt the earth’s violence and soon learned of the devastating destruction and death left in wake of the quake. Although we were literally and figuratively shaken, we were, thankfully, unharmed. Our thoughts go out to the citizens of Christchurch as they struggle to rebuild their city and their lives.   

Now, safely back at home, we are beginning to focus on the upcoming season and plan to post the 2011 Summer/Fall class schedule to the website by mid-April. In the meantime, Tracy is teaching at NYU and judging at the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition this month. Additionally, she is now a contributing writer for Wine Portfolio. Her article on Bordeaux’s new generation   

 appeared on the site in early February.   

Drink wisely and well,   

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE   

CEO: Chief Education Officer   

and   

Jared Michael Skolnick   

COO: Cork Opening Officer    

There’s More to NZ than SB: The Diversity of New Zealand Wines

Cloudy Bay was the Sauvignon Blanc (or as the New Zealanders call it, Savvy) shot heard round the world when it hit the ground running in 1986. In fact, the company is celebrating its 25th birthday this year. With pungent tropical fruit and overt herbaceous character, this wine from Marlborough, New Zealand put this grape on the world wine map in a way that Bordeaux Blanc (white) and Sancerre (both of which are also produced with Sauvignon Blanc) never had. And, it was deserved praise.    

But, if all you know about New Zealand is Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, think again. Hailing from areas such as Hawkes Bay, Martinborough and Central Otago, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Syrah and Pinot Noir are all thriving. And, with wines worthy of Alsace, Burgundy and the Rhone Valley, New Zealand is quickly earning a reputation as the France of the New World. Today, the wines of New Zealand are much more varied than a single wine region or a single grape variety. Rather, New Zealand’s winemakers are crafting world-class wines from a whole host of grapes and in a wide range of climates from the top of the North Island to the bottom of the South Island and many places in between.   

While grapes arrived in New Zealand in the mid-1800s, brought by the missionaries who came to settle the English territory, winemaking didn’t become a major focus for New Zealanders until the latter part of the 20th century. With a solid understanding of stainless steel tanks and refrigeration/temperature control, thanks to the country’s booming dairy business, New Zealand was able to create clean, well-made wines that were fresh and fruity. And, with its primarily maritime climate, the grapes achieve full ripeness, but remain balanced, with lively acidity.   

Just off the coast of the city of Auckland, Waiheke Island is home to a small, but well-respected, wine region. Here, full-bodied reds such as Syrah and Bordeaux-style blends can do well alongside the usual suspects of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Also sufficiently warm, the Hawkes Bay region, on the North Island’s East Coast, finds many of its winemakers focused on Syrah, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, among others. South of Hawkes Bay, which in the Southern Hemisphere means a cooler climate, we find Wairarapa Valley/Martinborough. Known for its Pinots – both Noir and Gris – the region also excels in Riesling.   

On the northeastern tip of the South Island is the region of Marlborough, Cloudy Bay’s birthplace and which is responsible for nearly 60% of all New Zealand wine production, much of which is devoted to Sauvignon Blanc (if it ain’t broke…). Yet, these producers also show great aplomb with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. Still further south, Central Otago is home to the southernmost vineyards in the world and a diverse set of microclimates in this much cooler climate. Here, in places like Bannockburn’s desert, the miners left their mark as they sluiced the landscape in search of gold and other minerals, resulting in a scene that seems more Bryce Canyon, Utah than New Zealand.   

And, of course, there are the occasional oddities from producers thinking outside the box. Along our travels, we also tasted Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Pinot Blanc, Semillon, Gamay, Montepulciano, Tempanillo and even a Pinotage blend, called Robert the Bruce. From sparkling Pinot Gris to late harvest Sauvignon Blanc and everything in between, the wines from New Zealand are truly diverse.   

     

TASTING NOTES
Wines are listed by region, from North to South, instead of the usual alphabetical listing.    

Man O War, Syrah 2008, Waiheke Island, New Zealand, $22.00
The largest producer on the island, Man O War is among the only Waiheke producers exported to the U.S. While we didn’t have a chance to visit the winery while we were in town, Tracy did have the opportunity to taste this wine blind against a wine from the Northern Rhône Valley (Nicholas-Perrin 2007, St. Joseph, France) and it held its own. The wine shows notes of meat, spice and red fruits, with full body, lively acidity and firm tannins.    

Te Mata, Cabernet Merlot 2008, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, $18.00
Te Mata maintains a self-catering cottage (1892 Vineyard House) just down the road from its winery with breathtaking vineyards views one can see from bed. This Bordeaux-style blend has a small amount of Petit Verdot also included. Showing black currant, vanilla and oak on the nose, the wine was dry with medium tannins and flavors of coffee, oak, black cherry and black currant.   

Ata Rangi, Pinot Noir 2009, Martinborough, New Zealand, $40.00
Helen Masters is winemaker for this pioneer producer and has been with Ata Rangi for 9 years. We absolutely adored her Pinot Gris (and her dog, see photo), but they don’t export that wine. Fortunately, her Pinot Noir is equally amazing with aromas of raspberry and dried herbs on the nose. The palate presents with high acidity, fine-grained, medium tannins and notes of raspberry, dried herbs, savory and a slight undercurrent of earth, culminating in long length.   

Villa Maria, Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Marlborough, New Zealand, $18.00
OK, we’ve just finished telling you to expand your horizons beyond Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but this single-vineyard wine is worth the rut. The namesake bay sits just south of the famous cloudy one, on the eastern side of the region known as the Awatere Valley. A typical nose of gooseberry and herbs gives way to a more restrained and elegant palate of tropical fruit, nettles, tomato leaf and slight salinity, all of which persist throughout the extremely long length.   

 Pegasus Bay, Riesling 2008, Waipara, New Zealand, $26.00
As noted above, we were at this winery during the earthquake – an occupational hazard of stopping for wine tastings may have spared us harm. Thankfully, the winery building was built to withstand the shocks and other than a swinging chandelier, there was no evidence of the disaster when we left. Their Riesling has won many awards and it was easy to see why with its floral and honeyed nose. On the palate, the wine is off-dry with high acidity to balance the slight sweetness and flavors of honey, pineapple, lime zest and a trace of minerality in the finish.   

Amisfield, Rocky Knoll Pinot Noir 2006, Central Otago, New Zealand, $85.00
This wine is only produced in outstanding vintages, which currently include 2003 and 2006. Compared to Amisfield’s other Pinot Noir offering, this wine spends a longer period of time aging in oak (15 months). Showing some development on the nose, with dark red fruit, herbal and earth aromas, these are joined by cherries, plums and wet leaves with beautiful balance, complexity and concentration, along with a hint of minerality in the long finish.

Notes from Napa

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A venture from the folks at Folie à Deux, Napa Cellars produces a full range of the usual suspects and prides itself on producing consistent wines from vintage to vintage, by sourcing fruit from quality vineyards throughout the Napa Valley. The winemaker is Joe Shirley.

Napa Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $26.00
Winemaking: 18 months of aging, predominantly in French oak, 55% of which was new.
Aromas: Red and black fruit, pepper, oak and mint
Flavors: Juicy fruit notes of blackberry, oak and eucalyptus
Structure: Medium acidity; medium, ripe tannins; medium+ length

Napa Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Napa Valley, CA, $18.00
Aromas: Pronounced herbal and citrus
Flavors: Lemon, lemon meringue, slight herbal
Structure: High acidity, medium+ length
A very nice wine.

Napa Cellars Chardonnay 2009, Napa Valley, CA, $22.00
Aromas: Apple, toast, smoke, slight melon
Flavors: Toast, apple, melon, smoke, caramel in finish
Structure: Medium+ acidity, medium+ body, medium+ alchohol, medium length

Napa Cellars Mount Veeder Chardonnay 2009, Napa Valley, CA, $32.00
Aromas: Oak, nuts, bruised apple
Flavors: Oak, apple, nuts
Structure: Medium+ acidity, full-bodied, medium- alcohol, long length

The Mt. Veeder wine was tasted with the regular Chardonnay. It was deeper in color and I found it to be more balanced in its use of oak. It also had a longer length.

Napa Cellars Dyer Vineyard Syrah 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $28.00
Aromas: Smokey, blackcherry, vanilla, hint of leather
Flavors: Blackcherry, vanilla, smoke and leather
Structure: Medium+ acidity, full-bodied, high alcohol, medium length
Powerful wine with concentrated fruit and nice acidity, but a bit hot.

Napa Cellars Zinfandel 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $22.00
Winemaking: 88% Zinfandel, 12% Petite Sirah; Aged 18 months in French & American oak (40% new)
Formal notes not taken, but the wine was very balanced and concentrated with bramble fruit and spice. It paired well with an Ecuadorian chocolate with banana and cayenne pepper.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Promoting Prosecco (February 2011)

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What a winter this is shaping up to be. With snow, snow and more snow piling up (at least for us Eastcoasters), it’s enough to make one wish they were hibernating for the season. Fortunately, grapevines go dormant for the winter season, so they are slumbering through all of the storms.

Tracy is lucky enough to have a brief respite early this month as she heads to Miami for the Simply Italian: Great Wines South Florida Tour. Once there, she will be presenting to the trade and press on the U.S. Wine Market and on the Friuli Grave DOC.

Upon her return, we’ll be packing for our trip to New Zealand for which we depart in mid-February. Our itinerary includes visits to numerous wine regions on both the North and South Islands, so we’ll have a lot to share with you when we get back.

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
      and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

Promoting Prosecco

Prosecco Superiore DOCG

The twinkling lights of the holidays are all but a dim memory (or at least they should be – if you still have your Christmas lights up, it’s more than time to take them down). But, sparkling wines can continue to take their place at the table this month.

In fact, much like the aptly named dessert, Tira Misu, which is traditional to the Treviso province, Prosecco can be the perfect “pick me up” during these dreary winter days. An Italian sparkler from the Veneto region, this wine has recently been promoted to DOCG status – Italy’s highest quality tier.

While previously produced from a grape known as Prosecco, the proliferation of “Prosecco” wines diluted the quality within the market, with bottles from Brazil taking up space on the shelf next to the true Prosecco. Not surprisingly, there was much confusion for the consumer.

Accordingly, the restrictions on what is (and isn’t) Prosecco were tightened in 2009, taking effect with the 2010 vintage. Among the changes instituted, Prosecco itself now refers to a territory and the grape is now called Glera, of which a minimum of 85% must be used. If not produced with 100% Glera, the remaining 15% can be made up of Verdis, Perera, Bianchetta, Glera Lugna, Pinot Nero, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and/or Chardonnay.

Moreover, there are now two levels of Prosecco – Prosecco DOC and Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. The former comprises nine provinces spread out among two regions (Veneto and Friuli), while the latter is confined to 15 communes within the Veneto’s Treviso province. The delimited area for the DOCG includes 4,500 planted hectares, 166 wineries and 3,000 growers.

In general, Proseccos are fresh and fruity, exhibiting the aromatic characteristics of the Glera grape. Produced via the Italian (aka Charmat) method of sparkling wine production, the floral and fruit aromas and flavors are retained, rather than masked through the use of stainless steel and minimal contact with yeast/lees (unlike the Traditional method). Refermentation is typically limited to 25-60 days, with an additional 30 days of bottle age, before release. Meant to be drunk young, the wines are increasingly being vintage-dated (most were previously non-vintaged) to provide the consumer with more information.

Wines may be labeled as being from Conegliano, Valdobbiadene or both, with Conegliano wines emphasizing fruit over floral notes and being slightly more structured. Conversely, Valdobbiadene wines show very developed floral aromas and more delicacy. Similarly to other sparkling wines, Proseccos will be labeled with a sweetness indication – Brut, Extra Dry, Dry or Demi-Sec – with the drier Brut style wines being more modern and the Extra Dry wines (which are only slightly sweet) among the most traditional.

Within the DOCG classification, look for wines labels as Cartizze, the “Grand Cru” of Prosecco Superiore, produced from a mere 106 hectares of vineyard located at the top of Valdobbiadene’s steep hills. In addition, Rive, a new classification introduced with the new regulations, indicates a wine that was hand-harvested from a single vineyard, with lower yields and produced in one of Prosecco Superiore’s subzones.

With a wealth of Prosecco wines from which to choose, nearly all of which will be quite pocket-friendly, it is easy to add some sparkle to your snow day and celebrate Prosecco’s promotion.

Prosecco in the glass

TASTING NOTES
Bel Canto di Bellussi, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Extra Dry, Veneto, Italy, $13.00
Purchased by the Martellozzo family in 1993, Belllusi is presently run by Enrico, the third generation in his family to work in the wine business. With a fine perlage, this wine displays red apple and floral notes on both the nose and palate. Off-dry and light, it is quite elegant.   

Bortolomiol, “Motus Vitae” Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Millesimato, Veneto, Italy, $NA
Run by four daughters and their mother, Bortolomiol carries on the determination and commitment of Giuliano Bortolomiol who not only founded the family business, but also was among the founders of the Prosecco Wine Fraternity in 1946. Dedicated to his memory, the Motus Vitae is dry with notes of apples and minerality, culminating in long length.

Val d’Oca, Uvaggio Storico, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Dry, Veneto, Italy, $24.00
A cooperative of 583 growers, Val d’Oca is the largest producer of Prosecco Superiore DOCG. The Uvaggio Storico, so named for its traditional blend of grape varieties – 85% Glera and 15% Verdiso, Perera and Bianchetta Trevigniana – mirrors the way Prosecco was made 20 years ago. With floral and pear aromas, the wine is off-dry with pear and floral flavors on the palate.

Villa Sandi, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG Vigna La Rivetta Brut, Veneto, Italy, $26.00
Produced from estate-grown grapes in the Cartizze area, Manuela Oregna, Villa Sandi’sExport Manager, explained that this wine was crafted in the Brut style to “underline the mineral aspect of the wine.”  The winner of Italy’s Tre Bicchieri (3 Glasses) award, the wine shows beautiful floral and mineral characteristics.

Vincenzo Toffoli, Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry, Veneto, Italy, $19.00
A family-owned winery established in 1964, the winery is presently run by Santo Toffoli, his daughter and other members of the Toffoli family. Produced from 95% Glera and 5% Verdiso, this wine has medium intense aromas of peach and floral which persist on the off-dry palate, with vibrant acidity and long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Think Yellow, Drink Yellow (January 2011)

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We hope you have enjoyed a wonderful holiday season and have started off 2011 with a bang…or perhaps a bottle or two. 

The New Year holds much promise and we look forward to continuing to lead winederful lives in the year ahead. In the near future, we will be traveling to New Zealand, visiting both the North and South Islands of this amazing country. Of course, wine will be among our chief pursuits with stops in the Hawkes Bay, Martinborough, Marlborough, and Central Otago wine regions. In March, Tracy will participate as a judge in the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition, while April finds her serving on a panel for Roanoke Winery’s Winemakers’ Smackdown blind tasting event. She is also confirmed to present at both the Society of Wine Educators and American Wine Society’s conferences in August and November, respectively. 

And, if learning more about wine is among your New Year’s resolutions, you might wish to plan ahead and sign up to take one of Tracy’s classes at New York University or the International Wine Center (Intermediate Certificate: Thursday evenings beginning March 31). 

Among our resolutions, we continue to hold fast to the mantra that “Life is too short to drink bad wine.” We hope you agree. In this regard, we turn your attention to a grape that will not likely be familiar, but one that has great potential to please your palate. And, so we introduce to you…Ribolla Gialla. 

Drink wisely and well, 

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer 

       and 

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer
 

Think Yellow, Drink Yellow

Marco Primosic's logo'd Porsche

 

Among grape varieties, Ribolla Gialla is not a household name, but perhaps it is time to change this oversight. Among the grapes grown in the vineyards of Collio (found in the Friuli-Venezia-Giulia region in northeast Italy), the name Ribolla predominates from the 13th century. Documents from the 16th century note that the Archdecon of Gorizia (located within Collio) sent the patriarch of Aquileia casks of Ribolla annually from 1584-1597. Moreover, classifications of Collio area wines praised the Ribolla wines from Oslavia and San Floriano, among others. But, eventually, Ribolla was supplanted by German and French varieties and was relegated to a wine for commoners. Today, Collio is spawning a Ribolla renaissance, with several prominent producers latching onto this grape variety and taking it to new heights. 

Ribolla Gialla, which takes its name from its golden yellow appearance (gialla means yellow in Italian) and distinguishes it from the lesser quality Ribolla Verde, is a grape that can provide diversity and versatility in the winery. It is inherently high in acidity, with delicate, floral aromas, but depending upon the production techniques employed, it is capable of complex flavors, good structure and long aging potential. Current wineries are producing both still and sparkling versions of Ribolla Gialla as well as wines with oak influence and the use of millennia-old maceration techniques. Traditionally done to naturally preserve the wine before the advent of technology, the modern use of skin contact pulls flavors, tannins and other phenolics from the thick-skinned grapes creating fuller-bodied, structured, age-worthy wines. 

Collio, nestled between the Adriatic Sea and the striking, Giulian Alps, is blessed with a moderate climate, significant diurnal shifts and good minerality in the soil. Within Collio, Oslavia, which sits on the border of Slovenia and, was previously part of the Hapsburg empire, is considered to be one of its Crus and it is here that most of the Ribolla’s rebirth is centered. Benchmark Ribolla Gialla producers include (but are certainly not limited to): La Castelleda, Fiegl, Gradisc’ciutta, Primosic and Radikon. 

 
TASTING NOTES

Ribolla Gialla in the glass

 

Gradis’ciutta Collio Ribolla Gialla 2007, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $17.00*
Run by father and son team, Isidoro and Robert Princic (one of five Princic families in the local wine industry), Gradis’ciutta shifted from selling wine wholesale began bottling its own wine in 1997. Pale lemon in color, this wine had pear, almond and floral aromas. On the palate, it was dry, with high acidity and flavors of almond, citrus and pronounced minerality and paired perfectly with a beautiful dish of clams. 

Fiegl Collio Ribolla Gialla 2007, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $18.00*
According to the Austrian land register (and indicative of the confluence of cultures in this area – Italian, Austrian, Yugoslavian), the Fiegl family has been in Oslavia since 1782, but only started bottling their own wines in 1992. With only a short (4 hours) period of skin contact and no oak, this wine was aged for two years, but shows a nice freshness. Medium+ gold in color, there is a slightly oxidative note on the nose, followed by apple, nuts and butterscotch. These continue on the dry palate, joined by minerality. 

Primosic Collio Ribolla Gialla Riserva 2007, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $12.00 (non-Riserva)*
Marko Primosic, son of founder Silvestro, presently serves as Chairman of the Associazione Produttori Ribolla di Oslavia and Vice-President of the Collio Consortio. Produced from late-harvested grapes, which were fermented in an open, wood barrel of Slovenian oak, this wine displayed a medium+ gold hue in the glass. Aromas and flavors of floral, mineral and almond persisted throughout its long length. 

Radikon Collio Ribolla Gialla 2000, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $45.00*
The vineyards and winery were initially set up in the late 1940s, but it was in 1995 when Stanislaeo Radikon decided to drastically shift his approach to winemaking, incorporating the use of extended maceration for his white wines, among others. Since it was not fined, this wine appeared slightly cloudy. On the nose, it has slightly oxidative notes with nuttiness, bruised apple and spice notes, all of which reappeared on the palate, along with high acidity, astringency and long length. 

La Castellada Collio Ribolla Gialla 20006, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $68.00*
Established by Giuseppe Bensa, and run today his sons Giorgio and Nicolo and grandsons Stefano and Matteo, La Castelleda focuses on prolonged skin contact and practices biodynamics. With 15 days of skin contact, this wine possesses high phenolics and was thus served in a Burgundy glass, more akin to a red wine. Deep gold in the glass, this wine provides aromas of sweet spice, butterscotch and apples. It is bone dry, with good acidity and structure and showing some astringency on the palate, with flavors of pith, rich apples, nuts and spices. 

*Prices provided are current retail prices for wines available in the U.S. market, which may not necessarily be the same vintage as above. 

Enjoying Ribolla Gialla overlooking Oslavia