Author Archives: Tracy

Can California wine age?

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Can California wine age? The answer was a resounding “Yes!” when members of the Wine Media Guild had the luxury of tasting through several older vintages of wine from a number of California’s centenary wineries.

The wineries represented at the tasting included Charles Krug, Simi, Schramsberg Vineyards, Wente Vineyards, Buena Vista, Beaulieu and Gundlach Bundschu, with both newer vintages and library wines on hand to taste.

Most surprising was a 1935 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon, which, while not fresh, was still quite drinkable. A second treasure unearthed from Simi’s cellars was a 1935 Tokay dessert wine. Tasters seemed equally pleased with the 1966 Charles Krug Vintage Selection Cabernet Sauvignon.

Guest speaker, Peter Mondavi, whose grandparents purchased the winery in 1943, was on hand to provide some history and answer questions.

But, as the event wore on, many wondered if the recent vintages would fare as well as those of yesteryear, with a particular focus on alcohol levels. The Krug Vintage Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 1966 had only 12% abv compared to the 15% abv of the 2008 vintage of the same wine.

Peter explained that pre-1980, many of the vines were virused, which effected the plants’ ability to conduct photosynthesis. As a result, sugar accumulation was slow, but physiological ripeness (tannins and other phenolic compounds) was sound. Accordingly, these wines were produced at an average of 12% alcohol by volume.

In contrast, current California vines are extremely healthy and very efficient at producing sugars and at a fast rate. Consequently, these vines have high alcohol levels (14% and upwards). Moreover, with the rapid sugar development, the natural acidity levels are lower than in the past. With their high alcohol, coupled with lower acidity, it was surmised that today’s wines will not be as longlived. Of course, only time will tell.

The Circle of Life

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From year to year, winemakers get the opportunity to begin again and make a new wine from a new harvest. Each vintage sharing some of the same elements as the one before, yet making its own mark on the world.

The newest vintage of wines from Bordeaux’s Right Bank (Rive Droite) was premiered at a Le Cercle Rive Droite tasting in March. Accordingly, barrel samples from 2010 were on offer from chateau in Pomerol, St. –Emilion and other Right Bank appellations.

Baronne Guichard owns three separate properties, each with a unique terroir – Chateau Vray Croix de Gay in Pomoerol with gravely soils; Chateau Siaurac in Lalande de Pomerol with clays and gravels; and Chateau Le Prieure in St.-Emilion with soils of limestone and clay. Accordingly, the ability to do a mini-vertical and mini-horizontal tasting presented itself.

Proprietor Paul Goldschmidt describes the Chateau Le Prieure wine as being feminine and notes that the slopes are south-facing. The 2010 was very mineral in character with herbal notes (which Paul qualified as “Herbs de Provence, but under the shade”) and red fruit. The 2008 was similarly herbal with red fruit, but the minerality wasn’t present.

Paul characterizes the wines from Chateau Siaurac as being more masculine and explained that its appellation is known as the “poor man’s Pomerol” due to its lower price. The 2010 was intense with a concentrated nose of blackcherry, while the 2008 had mellowed and showed more red than black fruit.

The sample of Chateau Vray Croix de Gay has a slightly different make-up than its brethren, featuring more Merlot (90% vs. 80%) and thus less Cabernet Franc. The 2010 was concentrated with floral aromas while the palate had firm, tight tannins, blackcherry, some spice and long length. Similarly, the 2008 was rich, lush and ripe, but with the flavors and structure more closely knitted together with time.

Grand Cru Grape Vine: There’s More to NZ than SB (March 2011)

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Two weeks ago, we were tasting wine at the Pegasus Bay Winery in Waipara on New Zealand’s South Island. Thirty miles away, a major earthquake hit the city of Christchurch, with a magnitude of 6.3. We felt the earth’s violence and soon learned of the devastating destruction and death left in wake of the quake. Although we were literally and figuratively shaken, we were, thankfully, unharmed. Our thoughts go out to the citizens of Christchurch as they struggle to rebuild their city and their lives.   

Now, safely back at home, we are beginning to focus on the upcoming season and plan to post the 2011 Summer/Fall class schedule to the website by mid-April. In the meantime, Tracy is teaching at NYU and judging at the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition this month. Additionally, she is now a contributing writer for Wine Portfolio. Her article on Bordeaux’s new generation   

 appeared on the site in early February.   

Drink wisely and well,   

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE   

CEO: Chief Education Officer   

and   

Jared Michael Skolnick   

COO: Cork Opening Officer    

There’s More to NZ than SB: The Diversity of New Zealand Wines

Cloudy Bay was the Sauvignon Blanc (or as the New Zealanders call it, Savvy) shot heard round the world when it hit the ground running in 1986. In fact, the company is celebrating its 25th birthday this year. With pungent tropical fruit and overt herbaceous character, this wine from Marlborough, New Zealand put this grape on the world wine map in a way that Bordeaux Blanc (white) and Sancerre (both of which are also produced with Sauvignon Blanc) never had. And, it was deserved praise.    

But, if all you know about New Zealand is Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, think again. Hailing from areas such as Hawkes Bay, Martinborough and Central Otago, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Syrah and Pinot Noir are all thriving. And, with wines worthy of Alsace, Burgundy and the Rhone Valley, New Zealand is quickly earning a reputation as the France of the New World. Today, the wines of New Zealand are much more varied than a single wine region or a single grape variety. Rather, New Zealand’s winemakers are crafting world-class wines from a whole host of grapes and in a wide range of climates from the top of the North Island to the bottom of the South Island and many places in between.   

While grapes arrived in New Zealand in the mid-1800s, brought by the missionaries who came to settle the English territory, winemaking didn’t become a major focus for New Zealanders until the latter part of the 20th century. With a solid understanding of stainless steel tanks and refrigeration/temperature control, thanks to the country’s booming dairy business, New Zealand was able to create clean, well-made wines that were fresh and fruity. And, with its primarily maritime climate, the grapes achieve full ripeness, but remain balanced, with lively acidity.   

Just off the coast of the city of Auckland, Waiheke Island is home to a small, but well-respected, wine region. Here, full-bodied reds such as Syrah and Bordeaux-style blends can do well alongside the usual suspects of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Also sufficiently warm, the Hawkes Bay region, on the North Island’s East Coast, finds many of its winemakers focused on Syrah, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, among others. South of Hawkes Bay, which in the Southern Hemisphere means a cooler climate, we find Wairarapa Valley/Martinborough. Known for its Pinots – both Noir and Gris – the region also excels in Riesling.   

On the northeastern tip of the South Island is the region of Marlborough, Cloudy Bay’s birthplace and which is responsible for nearly 60% of all New Zealand wine production, much of which is devoted to Sauvignon Blanc (if it ain’t broke…). Yet, these producers also show great aplomb with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. Still further south, Central Otago is home to the southernmost vineyards in the world and a diverse set of microclimates in this much cooler climate. Here, in places like Bannockburn’s desert, the miners left their mark as they sluiced the landscape in search of gold and other minerals, resulting in a scene that seems more Bryce Canyon, Utah than New Zealand.   

And, of course, there are the occasional oddities from producers thinking outside the box. Along our travels, we also tasted Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Pinot Blanc, Semillon, Gamay, Montepulciano, Tempanillo and even a Pinotage blend, called Robert the Bruce. From sparkling Pinot Gris to late harvest Sauvignon Blanc and everything in between, the wines from New Zealand are truly diverse.   

     

TASTING NOTES
Wines are listed by region, from North to South, instead of the usual alphabetical listing.    

Man O War, Syrah 2008, Waiheke Island, New Zealand, $22.00
The largest producer on the island, Man O War is among the only Waiheke producers exported to the U.S. While we didn’t have a chance to visit the winery while we were in town, Tracy did have the opportunity to taste this wine blind against a wine from the Northern Rhône Valley (Nicholas-Perrin 2007, St. Joseph, France) and it held its own. The wine shows notes of meat, spice and red fruits, with full body, lively acidity and firm tannins.    

Te Mata, Cabernet Merlot 2008, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, $18.00
Te Mata maintains a self-catering cottage (1892 Vineyard House) just down the road from its winery with breathtaking vineyards views one can see from bed. This Bordeaux-style blend has a small amount of Petit Verdot also included. Showing black currant, vanilla and oak on the nose, the wine was dry with medium tannins and flavors of coffee, oak, black cherry and black currant.   

Ata Rangi, Pinot Noir 2009, Martinborough, New Zealand, $40.00
Helen Masters is winemaker for this pioneer producer and has been with Ata Rangi for 9 years. We absolutely adored her Pinot Gris (and her dog, see photo), but they don’t export that wine. Fortunately, her Pinot Noir is equally amazing with aromas of raspberry and dried herbs on the nose. The palate presents with high acidity, fine-grained, medium tannins and notes of raspberry, dried herbs, savory and a slight undercurrent of earth, culminating in long length.   

Villa Maria, Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Marlborough, New Zealand, $18.00
OK, we’ve just finished telling you to expand your horizons beyond Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but this single-vineyard wine is worth the rut. The namesake bay sits just south of the famous cloudy one, on the eastern side of the region known as the Awatere Valley. A typical nose of gooseberry and herbs gives way to a more restrained and elegant palate of tropical fruit, nettles, tomato leaf and slight salinity, all of which persist throughout the extremely long length.   

 Pegasus Bay, Riesling 2008, Waipara, New Zealand, $26.00
As noted above, we were at this winery during the earthquake – an occupational hazard of stopping for wine tastings may have spared us harm. Thankfully, the winery building was built to withstand the shocks and other than a swinging chandelier, there was no evidence of the disaster when we left. Their Riesling has won many awards and it was easy to see why with its floral and honeyed nose. On the palate, the wine is off-dry with high acidity to balance the slight sweetness and flavors of honey, pineapple, lime zest and a trace of minerality in the finish.   

Amisfield, Rocky Knoll Pinot Noir 2006, Central Otago, New Zealand, $85.00
This wine is only produced in outstanding vintages, which currently include 2003 and 2006. Compared to Amisfield’s other Pinot Noir offering, this wine spends a longer period of time aging in oak (15 months). Showing some development on the nose, with dark red fruit, herbal and earth aromas, these are joined by cherries, plums and wet leaves with beautiful balance, complexity and concentration, along with a hint of minerality in the long finish.

Notes from Napa

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A venture from the folks at Folie à Deux, Napa Cellars produces a full range of the usual suspects and prides itself on producing consistent wines from vintage to vintage, by sourcing fruit from quality vineyards throughout the Napa Valley. The winemaker is Joe Shirley.

Napa Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $26.00
Winemaking: 18 months of aging, predominantly in French oak, 55% of which was new.
Aromas: Red and black fruit, pepper, oak and mint
Flavors: Juicy fruit notes of blackberry, oak and eucalyptus
Structure: Medium acidity; medium, ripe tannins; medium+ length

Napa Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Napa Valley, CA, $18.00
Aromas: Pronounced herbal and citrus
Flavors: Lemon, lemon meringue, slight herbal
Structure: High acidity, medium+ length
A very nice wine.

Napa Cellars Chardonnay 2009, Napa Valley, CA, $22.00
Aromas: Apple, toast, smoke, slight melon
Flavors: Toast, apple, melon, smoke, caramel in finish
Structure: Medium+ acidity, medium+ body, medium+ alchohol, medium length

Napa Cellars Mount Veeder Chardonnay 2009, Napa Valley, CA, $32.00
Aromas: Oak, nuts, bruised apple
Flavors: Oak, apple, nuts
Structure: Medium+ acidity, full-bodied, medium- alcohol, long length

The Mt. Veeder wine was tasted with the regular Chardonnay. It was deeper in color and I found it to be more balanced in its use of oak. It also had a longer length.

Napa Cellars Dyer Vineyard Syrah 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $28.00
Aromas: Smokey, blackcherry, vanilla, hint of leather
Flavors: Blackcherry, vanilla, smoke and leather
Structure: Medium+ acidity, full-bodied, high alcohol, medium length
Powerful wine with concentrated fruit and nice acidity, but a bit hot.

Napa Cellars Zinfandel 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $22.00
Winemaking: 88% Zinfandel, 12% Petite Sirah; Aged 18 months in French & American oak (40% new)
Formal notes not taken, but the wine was very balanced and concentrated with bramble fruit and spice. It paired well with an Ecuadorian chocolate with banana and cayenne pepper.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Promoting Prosecco (February 2011)

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What a winter this is shaping up to be. With snow, snow and more snow piling up (at least for us Eastcoasters), it’s enough to make one wish they were hibernating for the season. Fortunately, grapevines go dormant for the winter season, so they are slumbering through all of the storms.

Tracy is lucky enough to have a brief respite early this month as she heads to Miami for the Simply Italian: Great Wines South Florida Tour. Once there, she will be presenting to the trade and press on the U.S. Wine Market and on the Friuli Grave DOC.

Upon her return, we’ll be packing for our trip to New Zealand for which we depart in mid-February. Our itinerary includes visits to numerous wine regions on both the North and South Islands, so we’ll have a lot to share with you when we get back.

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
      and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

Promoting Prosecco

Prosecco Superiore DOCG

The twinkling lights of the holidays are all but a dim memory (or at least they should be – if you still have your Christmas lights up, it’s more than time to take them down). But, sparkling wines can continue to take their place at the table this month.

In fact, much like the aptly named dessert, Tira Misu, which is traditional to the Treviso province, Prosecco can be the perfect “pick me up” during these dreary winter days. An Italian sparkler from the Veneto region, this wine has recently been promoted to DOCG status – Italy’s highest quality tier.

While previously produced from a grape known as Prosecco, the proliferation of “Prosecco” wines diluted the quality within the market, with bottles from Brazil taking up space on the shelf next to the true Prosecco. Not surprisingly, there was much confusion for the consumer.

Accordingly, the restrictions on what is (and isn’t) Prosecco were tightened in 2009, taking effect with the 2010 vintage. Among the changes instituted, Prosecco itself now refers to a territory and the grape is now called Glera, of which a minimum of 85% must be used. If not produced with 100% Glera, the remaining 15% can be made up of Verdis, Perera, Bianchetta, Glera Lugna, Pinot Nero, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and/or Chardonnay.

Moreover, there are now two levels of Prosecco – Prosecco DOC and Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. The former comprises nine provinces spread out among two regions (Veneto and Friuli), while the latter is confined to 15 communes within the Veneto’s Treviso province. The delimited area for the DOCG includes 4,500 planted hectares, 166 wineries and 3,000 growers.

In general, Proseccos are fresh and fruity, exhibiting the aromatic characteristics of the Glera grape. Produced via the Italian (aka Charmat) method of sparkling wine production, the floral and fruit aromas and flavors are retained, rather than masked through the use of stainless steel and minimal contact with yeast/lees (unlike the Traditional method). Refermentation is typically limited to 25-60 days, with an additional 30 days of bottle age, before release. Meant to be drunk young, the wines are increasingly being vintage-dated (most were previously non-vintaged) to provide the consumer with more information.

Wines may be labeled as being from Conegliano, Valdobbiadene or both, with Conegliano wines emphasizing fruit over floral notes and being slightly more structured. Conversely, Valdobbiadene wines show very developed floral aromas and more delicacy. Similarly to other sparkling wines, Proseccos will be labeled with a sweetness indication – Brut, Extra Dry, Dry or Demi-Sec – with the drier Brut style wines being more modern and the Extra Dry wines (which are only slightly sweet) among the most traditional.

Within the DOCG classification, look for wines labels as Cartizze, the “Grand Cru” of Prosecco Superiore, produced from a mere 106 hectares of vineyard located at the top of Valdobbiadene’s steep hills. In addition, Rive, a new classification introduced with the new regulations, indicates a wine that was hand-harvested from a single vineyard, with lower yields and produced in one of Prosecco Superiore’s subzones.

With a wealth of Prosecco wines from which to choose, nearly all of which will be quite pocket-friendly, it is easy to add some sparkle to your snow day and celebrate Prosecco’s promotion.

Prosecco in the glass

TASTING NOTES
Bel Canto di Bellussi, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Extra Dry, Veneto, Italy, $13.00
Purchased by the Martellozzo family in 1993, Belllusi is presently run by Enrico, the third generation in his family to work in the wine business. With a fine perlage, this wine displays red apple and floral notes on both the nose and palate. Off-dry and light, it is quite elegant.   

Bortolomiol, “Motus Vitae” Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Millesimato, Veneto, Italy, $NA
Run by four daughters and their mother, Bortolomiol carries on the determination and commitment of Giuliano Bortolomiol who not only founded the family business, but also was among the founders of the Prosecco Wine Fraternity in 1946. Dedicated to his memory, the Motus Vitae is dry with notes of apples and minerality, culminating in long length.

Val d’Oca, Uvaggio Storico, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Dry, Veneto, Italy, $24.00
A cooperative of 583 growers, Val d’Oca is the largest producer of Prosecco Superiore DOCG. The Uvaggio Storico, so named for its traditional blend of grape varieties – 85% Glera and 15% Verdiso, Perera and Bianchetta Trevigniana – mirrors the way Prosecco was made 20 years ago. With floral and pear aromas, the wine is off-dry with pear and floral flavors on the palate.

Villa Sandi, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG Vigna La Rivetta Brut, Veneto, Italy, $26.00
Produced from estate-grown grapes in the Cartizze area, Manuela Oregna, Villa Sandi’sExport Manager, explained that this wine was crafted in the Brut style to “underline the mineral aspect of the wine.”  The winner of Italy’s Tre Bicchieri (3 Glasses) award, the wine shows beautiful floral and mineral characteristics.

Vincenzo Toffoli, Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry, Veneto, Italy, $19.00
A family-owned winery established in 1964, the winery is presently run by Santo Toffoli, his daughter and other members of the Toffoli family. Produced from 95% Glera and 5% Verdiso, this wine has medium intense aromas of peach and floral which persist on the off-dry palate, with vibrant acidity and long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Think Yellow, Drink Yellow (January 2011)

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We hope you have enjoyed a wonderful holiday season and have started off 2011 with a bang…or perhaps a bottle or two. 

The New Year holds much promise and we look forward to continuing to lead winederful lives in the year ahead. In the near future, we will be traveling to New Zealand, visiting both the North and South Islands of this amazing country. Of course, wine will be among our chief pursuits with stops in the Hawkes Bay, Martinborough, Marlborough, and Central Otago wine regions. In March, Tracy will participate as a judge in the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition, while April finds her serving on a panel for Roanoke Winery’s Winemakers’ Smackdown blind tasting event. She is also confirmed to present at both the Society of Wine Educators and American Wine Society’s conferences in August and November, respectively. 

And, if learning more about wine is among your New Year’s resolutions, you might wish to plan ahead and sign up to take one of Tracy’s classes at New York University or the International Wine Center (Intermediate Certificate: Thursday evenings beginning March 31). 

Among our resolutions, we continue to hold fast to the mantra that “Life is too short to drink bad wine.” We hope you agree. In this regard, we turn your attention to a grape that will not likely be familiar, but one that has great potential to please your palate. And, so we introduce to you…Ribolla Gialla. 

Drink wisely and well, 

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer 

       and 

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer
 

Think Yellow, Drink Yellow

Marco Primosic's logo'd Porsche

 

Among grape varieties, Ribolla Gialla is not a household name, but perhaps it is time to change this oversight. Among the grapes grown in the vineyards of Collio (found in the Friuli-Venezia-Giulia region in northeast Italy), the name Ribolla predominates from the 13th century. Documents from the 16th century note that the Archdecon of Gorizia (located within Collio) sent the patriarch of Aquileia casks of Ribolla annually from 1584-1597. Moreover, classifications of Collio area wines praised the Ribolla wines from Oslavia and San Floriano, among others. But, eventually, Ribolla was supplanted by German and French varieties and was relegated to a wine for commoners. Today, Collio is spawning a Ribolla renaissance, with several prominent producers latching onto this grape variety and taking it to new heights. 

Ribolla Gialla, which takes its name from its golden yellow appearance (gialla means yellow in Italian) and distinguishes it from the lesser quality Ribolla Verde, is a grape that can provide diversity and versatility in the winery. It is inherently high in acidity, with delicate, floral aromas, but depending upon the production techniques employed, it is capable of complex flavors, good structure and long aging potential. Current wineries are producing both still and sparkling versions of Ribolla Gialla as well as wines with oak influence and the use of millennia-old maceration techniques. Traditionally done to naturally preserve the wine before the advent of technology, the modern use of skin contact pulls flavors, tannins and other phenolics from the thick-skinned grapes creating fuller-bodied, structured, age-worthy wines. 

Collio, nestled between the Adriatic Sea and the striking, Giulian Alps, is blessed with a moderate climate, significant diurnal shifts and good minerality in the soil. Within Collio, Oslavia, which sits on the border of Slovenia and, was previously part of the Hapsburg empire, is considered to be one of its Crus and it is here that most of the Ribolla’s rebirth is centered. Benchmark Ribolla Gialla producers include (but are certainly not limited to): La Castelleda, Fiegl, Gradisc’ciutta, Primosic and Radikon. 

 
TASTING NOTES

Ribolla Gialla in the glass

 

Gradis’ciutta Collio Ribolla Gialla 2007, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $17.00*
Run by father and son team, Isidoro and Robert Princic (one of five Princic families in the local wine industry), Gradis’ciutta shifted from selling wine wholesale began bottling its own wine in 1997. Pale lemon in color, this wine had pear, almond and floral aromas. On the palate, it was dry, with high acidity and flavors of almond, citrus and pronounced minerality and paired perfectly with a beautiful dish of clams. 

Fiegl Collio Ribolla Gialla 2007, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $18.00*
According to the Austrian land register (and indicative of the confluence of cultures in this area – Italian, Austrian, Yugoslavian), the Fiegl family has been in Oslavia since 1782, but only started bottling their own wines in 1992. With only a short (4 hours) period of skin contact and no oak, this wine was aged for two years, but shows a nice freshness. Medium+ gold in color, there is a slightly oxidative note on the nose, followed by apple, nuts and butterscotch. These continue on the dry palate, joined by minerality. 

Primosic Collio Ribolla Gialla Riserva 2007, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $12.00 (non-Riserva)*
Marko Primosic, son of founder Silvestro, presently serves as Chairman of the Associazione Produttori Ribolla di Oslavia and Vice-President of the Collio Consortio. Produced from late-harvested grapes, which were fermented in an open, wood barrel of Slovenian oak, this wine displayed a medium+ gold hue in the glass. Aromas and flavors of floral, mineral and almond persisted throughout its long length. 

Radikon Collio Ribolla Gialla 2000, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $45.00*
The vineyards and winery were initially set up in the late 1940s, but it was in 1995 when Stanislaeo Radikon decided to drastically shift his approach to winemaking, incorporating the use of extended maceration for his white wines, among others. Since it was not fined, this wine appeared slightly cloudy. On the nose, it has slightly oxidative notes with nuttiness, bruised apple and spice notes, all of which reappeared on the palate, along with high acidity, astringency and long length. 

La Castellada Collio Ribolla Gialla 20006, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, $68.00*
Established by Giuseppe Bensa, and run today his sons Giorgio and Nicolo and grandsons Stefano and Matteo, La Castelleda focuses on prolonged skin contact and practices biodynamics. With 15 days of skin contact, this wine possesses high phenolics and was thus served in a Burgundy glass, more akin to a red wine. Deep gold in the glass, this wine provides aromas of sweet spice, butterscotch and apples. It is bone dry, with good acidity and structure and showing some astringency on the palate, with flavors of pith, rich apples, nuts and spices. 

*Prices provided are current retail prices for wines available in the U.S. market, which may not necessarily be the same vintage as above. 

Enjoying Ribolla Gialla overlooking Oslavia

 

Ricco Soave

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While Soave was a popular wine during much of the 1960s and 1970s, this easy-drinking white lost its market share to Pinot Grigio, albeit in some cases it was perhaps deserved.

Fast forward four decades and Soave is trying to make a comeback in a big way. Numerous Soave events were held in New York City this Fall, including its appearance as the topic for the Wine Media Guild’s October luncheon. Unable to attend the lunch (see luncheon reports for details), I accepted several samples from a PR agency.

I had requested a sparkling Soave, but, unfortunately, did not receive it among the wines I did. The line-up included a box wine ( Duca del Frassino Garganega/Pinot Grigio blend, IGT – so not technically a Soave), Re Midas Soave and Foscarin  Slavinus Soave Superiore DOCG Classico. I “unwrapped” the box Halloween weekend as I prepared to go to a party and spent a few minutes with the glass, to evaluate the wine. It was, at best, acceptable. My husband tasted it as well and we agreed to pour the remainder down the drain.

A few weeks later, I braved the Re Midas Soave. I opened this wine in advance of dinner, hoping I would enjoy it at least enough to drink with my Indian take-away. After its boxed brother (cousin?), the wine was a pleasant surprise. It had aromas and flavors of citrus, almond and floral.

And, later still, we turned our attention to the Foscarin Slavinus Soave Superiore Classico 2007. Yes, a lengthy name, which held much promise, but, would it deliver? The Superiore term means that the wine has 1% higher alcohol (thus the fruit was riper at harvest) than the non-Superiore designation and is aged for at least six months, while Classico means the wine comes from the heartland of the region. In some Italian areas, the original delimited area has grown substantially and the historic portion of the region has been connoted with the inclusion of the term Classico in the name of the appellation.

The wine did not disappoint. We tasted it with a friend (with both culinary and wine experience) who had dropped by for dinner. The wine was a hit with all three of us and was an interesting foil for our delivered Thai cuisine. It showed some development with notes of almond, citrus and a slight oxidized note. It was well-balanced, with vibrant acidity, medium body and nice length.

So, will Soave make a true comeback? The results are mixed. There are some winners and losers, so Soave deserves a fair shake, but the quality has not yet proven itself across the board.

Que Syrah, Shiraz and Shiraz

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A trio of Syrahs crossed by table this fall (9/22/2010), providing me with the opportunity to explore the similarities and differences among wines from Australia and South Africa.

90+ Cellars Lot 4: Shiraz Viognier 2007, McLaren Vale, Australia, $17.00
92% Shiraz, 8% Viogner; Co-fermented and aged for 14 months in new French oak.
Co-fermented as is done with Côte-Rôtie, this wine displayed aromas of medium+ intensity that included blueberry black cherry, oak, earth and dried herbs. Of the three wines, it had the deepest nose. On the palate, it was full-bodied with medium+/high tannins, medium acidity and flavors of blackberry, cherry, oak, earth and spice, culminating in medium+ length. Overall, the wine showed good fruit concentration along with complexity and elegance.

Rudi Schultz Syrah 2007, Stellenbosch, South Africa, $30.00
100% Syrah; Aged for 20 months in French oak barrels (30% new; 70% second and third fill).
Winemaker and proprietor Rudi Schultz was prompted to go into winemaking after tasting great Northern Rhone wines. Thus, it is no surprise that his wines are crafted in a similar style. Notes of blackberry, earth, rubber, leafyness and meatiness were present on the nose, which was the most savory of the three wines. Another full-bodied wine with medium+ tannins, the palate showed blackberry, blueberry, leather, rubber and meatiness, all of which lingered in the wine’s long length. Overall, the wine was both powerful and aromatic.

Xavier Flouret Waroo Shiraz 2009. Pemberton – Western Australia, $18.00
100% Shiraz; Aged for 8 months in oak barrels (75% French, 25% American oak).
From the cooler area of Western Australia, this wine had blackcherry, vanilla, floral and dried/jammy fruit aromas. Similarly full-bodied to the others, this wine provided medium+ acidity and medium tannins on the palate. Its flavors included blackcherry, herbaceousness, leather, and a tart cherry note in the undercurrent. An earthiness remained throughout the wine’s long length. This wine  had the brightest acidity of the three, most likely due to its origins in a cooler climate.

This was an interesting exercise, showing the influence (and confluence) of grape variety, climate and production on the finished wine.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Starry, Starry Night (December 2010)

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Dom Perignon is said to have uttered the statement, “Come quickly, I am tasting stars,” to his fellow monks, upon discovering Champagne. While he did not actually invent Champagne, Dom Perignon’s work in the cellar helped to better understand how to keep the sparkle in sparkling wine and solidified the roots of the Champagne industry. With the holiday season upon us, it is a time for celebration and for tasting stars ourselves, whether enjoying a holiday dinner or toasting the impending New Year.

Here at Grand Cru Classes, we are celebrating the end of another successful year. Tracy’s appearance on the Wine Portfolio television program aired in early November on CNBC World and featured NYC wine shopping excursions to Sherry-Lehmann, Bottle Rocket and Chelsea Wine Vault. If you missed this episode, you can check out Tracy’s segments on their own (Wine Seller and Brave New World).

In addition, this month finds Tracy off to Italy once again to visit the regions of Collio (near Trieste) and Prosecco (just north of Venice) to learn more about these wonderful wines produced in northeastern Italy.

May this season find you happy and healthy!

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer 

Starry, Starry Night

Sparkling wines always add a festive air to any occasion given that they harness the carbon dioxide produced through a secondary fermentation to capture the bubbles in the bottle. Wines produced in a very special, delimited area in northern France have taken the top title among sparkling wines as evidenced by the misappropriation of Champagne’s moniker for wines produced elsewhere. The chalky soils, cool climate and high acid retention, all lend themselves to creating a unique and well-regarded sparkler that takes significant time and talent to achieve. As a result, the wines of Champagne are highly sought after, with most other high quality sparkling wines emulating the Méthode Champenoise – referred to as the Traditional Method when used outside of the Champagne region. There are numerous factors that ultimately influence what ends up in the glass, but House style from a given producer is most attributed to six factors: terroir, grape varieties used; percentage of older wines used in the blend (aka reserve wines); aging period on the lees (dead yeast cells); dosage (sweetness level added at the end of the process); and the base wine (which depends upon the growing conditions of a given year). When brought together, these factors make up the style of wine.

Raise your glass this season in celebration and may you taste the stars!

Ayala Brut Majeur NV, Champagne, France, $36.00
Recently re-entered into the U.S. market, Ayala is owned by Bollinger. This wine is 45% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier and 35% Chardonnay and spent 2.5 years aging on the dead yeast cells. The nose is full of toast, mushroom and yeast. The light-bodied palate provides high acidity and yeasty and mushroom notes.

Nicholas Feuillatte Brut Rosé NV, Champagne, France, $40.00
Nicholas Feuillatte is a cooperative, owned by the growers who produce the grapes for its wines. Accordingly, these are high quality wines available at a more moderate price point. Notes of berries and toast greet the nose while the rich fruit flavors continue on the palate, culminating in its long length.

Gosset Grande Réserve NV, Champagne, France, $65.00
With a lengthy aging period of 5 years on the lees, this wine is full of brioche, bread and toast on the nose. A super-rich, fuller style of Champagne, the bready, brioche and toast flavors persist on the palate.

Pol Roger Brut 1999, Champagne, France
Reputed to be Winston Churchill’s favorite Champagne, this wine presents very toasted notes on the nose, which give way to lemon/citrus and brioche, which linger on the palate. 

Perrier-Jouet “Fleur de Champagne” Brut Rosé 2002, Champagne, France, $250.00
A splurge, but worth it, this wine is from the outstanding 2002 vintage and is Perrier-Jouet’s tete de cuvée. Pale salmon/onion skin in appearance with aromas of yeast, buttered roll and floral, this wine shows delicate notes of yeast, strawberry, with lively acidity and long length on the palate.

Battle of the California Cabs

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What is the difference between one California Cabernet Sauvignon and another (besides the marketing hype)? Sometimes the best way to find out is to taste a number of wines side by side. Even better, if you can taste them blindly, you will be less influenced by what you think is in the glass and more by what your nose and palate actually tell you about the wine.

With this in mind, I decided to have some fun this past summer and open four different Cabernet Sauvignons I had received as samples. All of the wines were varietally labeled as Cabernet Sauvignons, so at a minimum they were 75% of the named grape. Moreover, they all hailed from the great state of California, but from different AVAs within it. To add to the pleasure, I invited our friends who were visiting for the weekend to join in. All were game, so we lined up four glasses each and poured a taste from each of the bagged and numbered bottles. I asked everyone to remain quiet while they tasted so that each person could develop his or her own opinion of each wine. However, once we had all tasted through everything at least once, comments and critiques were fairgame.

-The Crusher Wilson Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Clarksburg (CA), USA, $11.00
100% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Plum and blackberry aromas. Dry, medium acidity, full body, medium tannins, spice and berry flavors. Some oxidative notes on the nose and palate — possibly a faulted bottle.

-Emblem Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Rutherford (CA), USA, $50.00
100% Cabernet Sauvignon; Aged for 22 months in French oak barrels (66% of which was new).
Medium floral, blackcherry, mint and a hint of bacon on the nose. Fry, medium acidity, full body, medium+ tannins, black berry, spice.

-Emblem Oso Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Rutherford (CA), USA, $50.00
100% Cabernet Sauvignon; Aged for 22 months in French oak barrels (45% of which was new).
Notes of blackberry, blackcherry and euclyptus on the nose. Dry, medium acidity, full body, high tannins, blackcherry, blackberry and peppery flavors.

-Josh Cellars Amber Knolls Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Red Hills (CA), USA, $15.00
100% Cabernet Sauvignon; Barrel aged for 16 months in new American oak and 1-2 year French oak.
Dried floral, herbal notes. Dry, medium acidity, full body, medium+ tannins, blackberry, blackcherry and herbal flavors.

Before the wines were revealed, the consensus was that the Oso Emblem Cabernet Sauvignon wine was the favorite (known as Glass #3 at the time) edging out the other three wines.  The Oso Vineyard wine had longer-lasting appeal with the group, showing a less-fruit forward style and some complex spice notes on the palate, while the non-named vineyard Emblem wine was more fruit forward. The Josh Cellars wine was also well liked by the group, coming in second place.

However, after the wines (and their prices) were identified, the preferences changed somewhat. While the group continued to acknowledge how much it liked the Oso Vineyard Emblem wine, it didn’t feel that they liked it $35.00 more. Accordingly, the Josh Cellars wine seemed to win out in the end, at least in terms of its price to quality ratio.

It was an interesting experience to see that the quality of the higher priced wine was appreciated by the group  — both novices and more experienced tasters alike, but that the lower-priced Josh Cellars wine delivered sufficient quality to make the group happy.