Situated in Castellina in Chianti, Tenuta di Lilliano has developed a well-earned reputation for crafting high-end, Chianti Classico wines. Its wines have been lavished with praise and high scores by Gambero Rosso, Wine Enthusiast, Doctor Wine and James Suckling, among others, but, most recently, its grapes received a resounding seal of approval when a 150kg cingale (wild boar) stormed through a stainless steel fence guarding the vineyards, just around harvest time!

The joint human and wildlife admiration for this 460-hectare, family estate is well placed. Purchased in 1920, it wasn’t until 1958, when then owner, Princess Eleonora Ruspoli Berlingieri, began to focus the estate’s production on quality. Interestingly, she hired a winemaker who did not drink wine, but who had an amazing palate and was able to create the best wines.

At the time, the Tenuta was unique in aging its wines in Bordeaux barrels and was one of the first producers to emphasize aging of their wines. Since then, the winery has continued to pursue its quality mission, building a new cellar in 1976, refining its agricultural approach (such as not mowing in between rows of vines) and reviewing its mix of varieties to hit upon the best expression of the grapes in their blends. In the winery, they take a light hand with oak, seeking elegance with only a little bit of wood, preferring larger, older vessels and firmly placing the focus on Sangiovese, the key variety of the region.

Sadly, the Princess passed away in the early- to mid-2000s, but Tenuta di Lilliano is still under the ownership of Princess Eleonora’s descendants, namely Giulio Ruspoli and Pietro Ruspoli, the former of whom runs the estate. With a vaunted heritage, the Ruspoli family traces its lineage to both Renaissance Tuscany and 17^th century Rome, where the family continues to occupy the Ruspoli Palace. Recalling this esteemed background, the wines bear the joint coats of arms from the Ruspoli and Berlingieri families.

Yet despite these noble connections, the family is decidedly down to earth as evidenced by the warm welcome received by several wine writers who recently met with Alessandro Ruspoli at Marea Restaurant. Alessandro, son of Pietro, represents the estate internationally and was in New York to share his wines with the press and trade.

While Teunta di Lilliano produces a full complement of Tuscan wines and grappa, our agenda for lunch was squarely on Chianti Classico. Accordingly, we tasted the three levels of this wine: Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva and the newer, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. Each wine was beautifully paired with its own course, thanks to Brand Ambassador, Tony DiDio (of TD Selections)’s practiced palate.

A blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino and 5% Merlot, the Chianti Classico 2016 (SRP $20) was fermented in concrete and then aged for 12 to 14 months in large, French casks. It was paired with Fusilli served alongside a rich and decadent, red wine-braised octopus with bone marrow. The wine offered up clean and classic aromas of cherry, black cherry, leafy/herbal notes, giving way to lovely tannins and acidity on the fresh, elegant palate, culminating in long length.

Served with Polletto pan roasted chicken breast, fennel, artichoke and snap pea, the Chianti Classico Riserva 2015 (SRP $32) was produced with 100% Sangiovese and aged for 15 months in large French casks. Traditional in style, the wine is very elegant and long lasting, with red fruit, dried herbs, and noticeable, but well-integrated, wood/oak that lingers in the long finish. In the future, it is anticipated that the Riserva will become a blend instead of a mono-varietal going forward as they determine the direction of the Gran Selezione.

In keeping with the family’s forward thinking, Tenuta di Lilliano was one of the first properties to have a Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. Launched in 2010, this new, higher quality tier, requires longer aging and better quality grapes to qualify for the category. Alessandro acknowledges that it was created to shed light on Tuscany during a low time, but feels that they have wisely used the opportunity to develop a new, high quality wine, crafted from a particularly prized vineyard. In this regard, they have made a single vineyard Cru with 100% Sangiovese, with the intention of showcasing the the best expression of the variety, making a wine that is even better than their Riserva.

Presented with a trio of cheeses, the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2015 (SRP $36) displayed deep dark red and black fruit, with a beautiful hint of spice. Its palate offered up bright acidity, medium+ body, fine grained tannins and very long length.

It is clear that these wines honor Princess Eleonora’s lasting legacy and will continue to garner attention; they just need to figure out a better way to keep out the wild boars!