Like many people in the wine industry, John Terlato, Vice Chairman of Terlato Wines, is passionate about Burgundy. When Terlato Wines initially purchased Sanford Winery and its vineyards in Santa Barbara, California in 2002, John was strongly advised to look to Burgundy for information and inspiration as they embarked on this new Chardonnay and Pinot Noir venture.
He took the advice to heart and traveled to Burgundy in search of great wine. Of course, he was not disappointed, but, equally important, he discovered great people. He returned to the U.S. not only with new knowledge that he was able to impart at Sanford, but also with a circle of new friends.
Over time, these friendships have continued to grow and blossom and it is from this collection of great people that John has now assembled a collection of world-class Burgundy wines, which he is importing under Terlato Wines’ CRU Selections division. The portfolio includes an impressive array of Who’s Who in Burgundy, but John stresses that he wants to work with friends, not all Burgundy producers.
And, such friendships have also resulted in joint projects such as the wine he recently made with Chateau de la Tour at Sanford Winery, bringing together California Pinot Noir, with Burgundian expertise. He enjoyed the project very much and admits that the experience will influence the way he does things going forward, since it is difficult to ignore what you have learned.
Among other things that John has gleaned from his Burgundian friends is the concept that vines can be classified as either introverts or extroverts and, by understanding which vines are which, one can best manage the vines to produce their highest quality. Accordingly, extroverted vines need more attention, while introverted vines should be left alone. He has since adopted this philosophy to other vines, which compliments his focus on making wines of place instead of wines of taste.
John himself is an extrovert, which comes across in his warm, generous approach to life and to people. But, he doesn’t want to interact just for the sake of interacting; in his words, “the ideal dinner party is made up of more than the [three] Graces and less than the [nine] Muses,” giving him the opportunity to have meaningful conversations with a variety of people over the course of a delicious meal and a glass of wine.
Terlato recently hosted a tasting of a subset of the Cru Selections portfolio, including: Domaine Michel Niellon, Chateau de la Tour, Domaine Pierre Label and Domaine Ramonet. It was truly an impressive tasting and an absolute treat to taste some of these very limited wines. And a welcome reminder as to why people are so passionate about Burgundy!
NB: If you would like to get to know John Terlato even better, why not join him on a cruise this December?
TASTING NOTES
Domaine Michel Niellon
This fourth-generation family affair is located in Chassagne-Montrachet and produces the full range of wines from the basic Bourgogne appellation to Grand Crus, including Chevalier-Montrachet. The vineyards are managed using sustainable agriculture.
*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Champgains” 2016
Rich, lovely, apple, woody, full bodied, long length.
*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Clos de la Maltroie” 2016
Mineral, wet stone, fresh, mineral, apple, toothpick, very long length.
*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Vergers” 2006
Developing, rich, full body, mineral, caramel, waxy, peach, long length.
Chateau de la Tour
Established in 1889 and situated in Vougeot, Chateau de la Tour is presently the largest landowner of the Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru, with a holding of 15 acres. The vines are farmed organically and the wines are aged in custom barrels. The estate’s Clos-Vougeot wines are typically produced from vineyards that average 65 years old, while those under the Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes (old vines) label are made from vines of a minimum of 100 years old.
*Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2015
Intense and concentrated fruit, cherry, herbs, earth, very long length.
*Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2007
Floral, red fruit, earthy and herbal, long length.
Domaine Pierre Labet
This domaine dates back to the 15th century with its headquarters built on the battlements surrounding the city of Beaune. The Labet family itself also has a long history in the region, having been in Beaune for 500 years. The family’s holdings include 25 acres spread throughout different appellations, with all of the vineyards farmed organically since 1992.
*Beaune “Clos du Dessus des Marconnets” 2015
Lovely nose, spice, apple, full body, medium acidity, good length.
*Meursault “Les Tillets” 2015
Mineral, green apple, toothpick, nuts, rich and round, long length.
*Beaune “Clos du Dessus des Marconnets” 2015
Ripe, rich, fresh, herbal, cherry, wood, long length.
*Gevry-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2015
Ripe berry, cherry, herbal, earthy, fruit on palate, bright acidity, woody finish, long length.
Domaine Ramonet
The Ramonet family settled in Burgundy in the 19th century and it was Pierre Ramonet, grandfather to the current owner, Jean-Claude, who established the (now vaunted) domaine in 1935. While Domaine Ramonet produces both red and white wines, it is most known for its top Chadonnays. Today, Jean-Claud is joined in the business by his daughters Anne-France and Clarisse.
*Bougogne Aligote 2016
Beautifully fresh, round, soft ripe pear/peach, pith, slight tropical, long length.
*Puligny-Montrachet 2016
Slight nuttiness, apple, wood, nuts, rich and round, slight buttery note, long length.
*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Boudriotte” 2016
Woody and apple on the nose, fresh, elegant and rich on the palate with apple, woodiness lingers in finish, long length.
*Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Ruchottes” 2014
Green apple, hint of oak, fresh acidity, full body, VERY long length.
*Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet 2001
Caramel, apple custard, good acidity, full body, caramel, butter, very long length.
Wow!
