Home to the wine-savvy Thomas Jefferson, Virginia saw the early development of viticulture within its borders during colonial times. However, like many places in America, the true creation of a wine industry in Virginia primarily dates to the 1970s, with significant growth occurring during the 1990s. (For a more in depth look at the state’s vinous history, see: Virginia’s Great American Wine Story).
While still fairly small in comparison to states like California and Washington, Virginia is currently crafting high quality wines with its 300 wineries currently spanning over 4,000 acres of grapes, 10 wine regions and 8 AVAs.
As Virginia wine rose to prominence within the state, the Virginia Governor’s Cup was founded. “…[O] ne of the most stringent competitions in the U.S., [it] is hosted by the Virginia Wineries Association in partnership with the Virginia Wine Board and the Virginia Vineyards Association.”
Directed by Jay Youmans, MW, the Governor’s Cup competition consists of Cider Judges (cider was added as its own category as of 2021), Preliminary Judges and Final Judges, with the wines judged on appearance, aroma, flavor, overall quality and commercial suitability. At the conclusion of Stage I: The Preliminary Round, the wines are then tasted and scored by the judges in Stage II: The Final Round. The top 12 wines with the highest average score earn the distinction of Governor’s Cup Case, while the wine with the highest overall score is named Virginia Governor’s Cup winner.
In 2022, the 40th year of this competition, the winners of the Governor’s Cup Case included:
- 50 West Vineyards 2019 Ashby Gap
- Barboursville Vineyards 2020 Vermentino Reserve
- Cana Vineyards and Winery of Middleburg 2019 LeMariage
- Cana Vineyards and Winery of Middleburg 2019 Unitè Reserve *
- Maggie Malick Wine Caves 2020 Albariño
- Michael Shaps Wineworks 2019 Chardonnay
- Pollak Vineyards 2017 Meritage
- Rockbridge Vineyard 2018 V d’Or
- Shenandoah Vineyards 2019 Reserve Red
- Stinson Vineyards 2017 Meritage
- Trump Winery 2015 Brut Reserve
- Wisdom Oak Winery 2019 NINETEEN
*Virginia Governor’s Cup Winner
Beyond those above, numerous wines were awarded Gold, Silver and Bronze medals, depending on the score received.
This formal evaluation of Virginia wines gives praise to those wines and wineries that are raising the vinous bar in the state. The corresponding Virginia Governor’s Cup Gala, held in Richmond, VA, provides a fundraising effort in support of the V Foundation’s cancer research as well as an opportunity for the public to taste through the Gold medal winners for 2023! Tickets are available online.
I recently had the opportunity to taste through a selection of the winning wines, as well as bottles from Early Mountain Vineyards. To help me out, I enlisted the assistance of a friend who happily obliged, as we tasted our way through the assortment of whites and reds. We were impressed by what was in our glass and only lamented that the economics of Virginia viticulture (similar to that of Long Island and other boutique regions) necessitates a price point of $30 and up. Yet despite these higher price points, they are worth it and worth seeking out.
Maggie Malick Wine Caves, Albariño 2020, Hillsboro, VA, $36.00
An aerospace engineer, Maggie Malick first embraced wine as a hobby in 2004. By 2011, her wines were winning awards at amateur competitions, prompting her to establish a commercial winery. Named Loudoun’s Winemaker of the Year for 2021, she and her husband, Mark, maintain 30 acres of vineyard, planted to 15 different grape varieties. Her Albariño 2020 is 100% Albarino, fermented and aged solely in stainless steel. This wine has a pronounced nose of citrus and stone fruits, with bright acidity and green apple, lemon oil and pith notes on the medium-bodied palate, with long length.
http://www.maggiemalickwinecaves.com
Michael Shaps Wineworks, Chardonnay 2019, Monticello AVA (Charlottesville, VA), $28.00
After studying enology and viticulture in Burgundy, France, Michael Shaps spent a year working in that region before settling in Charlottesville. After serving as winemaker for Jefferson Vineyards, Shaps began producing his own label in 2000. Not surprisingly given his background, this 100% Chardonnay was produced using Burgundian methods, with fermentation in new and used French oak barrels, along with lees stirring and malolactic fermentation. This wine has a decidedly fresh palate, with citrus and apple aromas, along with minerality and luscious buttery notes, with full body and long length.
https://www.virginiawineworks.com/
Stinson Vineyards, Meritage 2017, Monticello AVA (Crozet, VA) $37.00
Initially produced by Scott Stinson and his daughter, Rachel Stinson Vrooman, they were joined by Rachel’s husband Nathan Vrooman in 2015. They take their inspiration from French winemaking practices, with a focus on complexity and an elegant expression of the grapes. As a Meritage wine, this is a Bordeaux-style blend. Specifically, it brings together 50% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Petit Verdot. Aged in 20-50% new oak barrels for 15 months before being blended. Red and black fruit greet the nose with leafy notes, dusty tannins and medium+ body, culminating in long length.
https://stinsonvineyards.com
Wisdom Oak Winery, Nineteen 2019, Monticello AVA (North Garden, VA) $37.00
Owner and self-taught winemaker, Jason Lavallee, established Wisdom Oak Winery in 2016, growing his own grapes and making wine through a process of trial and error. Aged in a combination of new Virginia oak barrels and neutral oak, the 50% Petit Verdot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon blend offers up red fruit, spice, oak on the nose and palate. It has medium+ ripe tannins and full body, displaying a more angular, structural wine with warmth and long length.
https://www.wisdomoakwinery.com
Early Mountain Vineyards
Although not part of the Governor’s Cup case, Early Mountain’s wines are finding their footing at top restaurants nationwide. For example, coincidentally in October, I dined at NYC’s Luthun restaurant and, at the sommelier’s recommendation, enjoyed a glass of the Early Mountain Petit Manseng. Thus, it was a pleasant surprise to have the opportunity to taste it again as part of this sampling experience.
Initially planted in 2005 by Jess and Sharon Sweely, the Early Mountain property was purchased in 2010 by Jean Case and her husband, Steve. Two years later, they re-opened under the Early Mountain brand, expanding acreage to include Quaker Run Vineyard in 2015 and increasing their emphasis on Bordeaux grape varieties.
https://www.earlymountain.com/
Early Mountain Vineyards, Petit Manseng 2020, Virginia, $30.00
Winner of a Silver Medal in the Governor’s Cup, this wine comprises 93% Petit Manseng, 4% Pinot Gris and 3% Chardonnay. It was fermented in a combination of oak vessels, large Acacia and concrete. Deep in color, with apricot, spice and nut aromas and flavors, the wine is full bodied with long length.
Early Mountain Vineyards, Foothills 2021, Virginia, $27.00
During our tasting, we affectionately referred to this wine as the “kitchen sink” given the lengthy and varied blend of 28% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Petit Verdot, 8% Tanat, 8% Petit Manseng, and 5% Cabernet Franc. With black, juicy fruit, bright acidity and medium body, the wine is fresh and easy drinking.
Early Mountain Vineyards, Shenandoah Valley Cabernet Franc 2021, Virginia, $30.00
This 100% Cabernet Franc is produced with fruit sourced exclusively from the Shenandoah Valley and, in particular, the Shenandoah Springs Vineyard and Baer Ridge Vineyard. Aromas of smoke, mulberry and wet leaves persist on the dry palate with good acidity, medium+ body and long length. The 2020 vintage earned a Silver Medal in the Governor’s Cup.