While Soave was a popular wine during much of the 1960s and 1970s, this easy-drinking white lost its market share to Pinot Grigio, albeit in some cases it was perhaps deserved.

Fast forward four decades and Soave is trying to make a comeback in a big way. Numerous Soave events were held in New York City this Fall, including its appearance as the topic for the Wine Media Guild’s October luncheon. Unable to attend the lunch (see luncheon reports for details), I accepted several samples from a PR agency.

I had requested a sparkling Soave, but, unfortunately, did not receive it among the wines I did. The line-up included a box wine ( Duca del Frassino Garganega/Pinot Grigio blend, IGT – so not technically a Soave), Re Midas Soave and Foscarin  Slavinus Soave Superiore DOCG Classico. I “unwrapped” the box Halloween weekend as I prepared to go to a party and spent a few minutes with the glass, to evaluate the wine. It was, at best, acceptable. My husband tasted it as well and we agreed to pour the remainder down the drain.

A few weeks later, I braved the Re Midas Soave. I opened this wine in advance of dinner, hoping I would enjoy it at least enough to drink with my Indian take-away. After its boxed brother (cousin?), the wine was a pleasant surprise. It had aromas and flavors of citrus, almond and floral.

And, later still, we turned our attention to the Foscarin Slavinus Soave Superiore Classico 2007. Yes, a lengthy name, which held much promise, but, would it deliver? The Superiore term means that the wine has 1% higher alcohol (thus the fruit was riper at harvest) than the non-Superiore designation and is aged for at least six months, while Classico means the wine comes from the heartland of the region. In some Italian areas, the original delimited area has grown substantially and the historic portion of the region has been connoted with the inclusion of the term Classico in the name of the appellation.

The wine did not disappoint. We tasted it with a friend (with both culinary and wine experience) who had dropped by for dinner. The wine was a hit with all three of us and was an interesting foil for our delivered Thai cuisine. It showed some development with notes of almond, citrus and a slight oxidized note. It was well-balanced, with vibrant acidity, medium body and nice length.

So, will Soave make a true comeback? The results are mixed. There are some winners and losers, so Soave deserves a fair shake, but the quality has not yet proven itself across the board.