Frenchman Bernard Portet first visited California on a fact-finding mission back in the late 1960s and then returned in 1971 to help launch Clos du Val. After a few months in the Napa Valley, he suggested that his wife come join him as he expected to stay longer than originally planned – perhaps through harvest 1972. Thankfully, she accepted the invitation since he never left, serving not only as co-founder, but also as the company’s full-time winemaker for nearly 40 years. And, for almost four decades, Bernard helped to establish Clos du Val as a highly regarded name in the wine industry.

As the ninth generation of his family to be in the wine business, Bernard brought a lot of knowledge with him from France, which he applied to his new venture. For example, at the time, there was no concept of terroir. Winery managers, not winemakers, bought grapes from a myriad of growers, a practice which has significantly changed. But, Bernard recognized the unique qualities of the Stag’s Leap District prompting him and his partner, John Goelet, to purchase 178 acres and plant the estate’s first vineyards.

Also of note, while most California producers were focused on single variety wines – Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot – the Bordeaux-bred Bernard saw the benefit of blends. Consequently, the wine he produced was a combination of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, creating, in Bernard’s words, “a more complete wine.”

Almost immediately, Clos du Val’s quality was recognized. Chosen by Steven Spurrier as one of six California Cabernet Sauvignons to be included in the 1976 Judgment of Paris, the wine placed eighth overall. Ten years later, it took the top place in the French Culinary Institute Wine Tasting, a rematch of the original event. European in style, Clos du Val was quickly embraced by the east coast as one of the first California wines to be sold there.

But, in 2009, Bernard decided it was to retire and said good bye to the venerable brand he helped to create. But, as with Bernard’s previous best laid plans, somehow retirement didn’t stick. Today, Bernard is at the helm of another new venture – Heritance Wines. The moniker – a merger of “heritage” and “inheritance” – is Bernard’s way of conveying his sense of gratitude and all that he learned from his father and forefathers.

The year 2012 marked Bernard’s fortieth vintage in the Napa Valley and, not surprisingly, a lot has happened in forty years. But, while Heritance’s wines differ from those of Clos du Val, Bernard brings his same winemaking philosophy to this project. Although, at a recent lunch, when asked for specific pairing suggestions on what would go well with his wines, he replied, “Good company,” it is clear that he “…want[s] to make wine that goes well with food.” Toward this goal, Bernard blends across lots and grape varieties to arrive at the finished product. He adds that as the flavors of the food go away, the flavors of the wine should take over on the palate; wines with a soft entry and a fleshy element.

And, most importantly, the new wines truly reflect Bernard’s approach. Remaining steadfast to Bernard’s roots, Heritance, of course, produces a Cabernet Sauvignon. The tasting notes for the 2008 and 2010 are included below, but when both Cabernet wines were tasted alongside the inaugural Clos du Val (1972), the pedigree of the wines was unmistakable. While the aged wine understandably offered up the developed characteristics of a 40-year-old wine, its structural elements were clearly evident in the two modern-day wines. It was almost as if the 2008 and 2010 were looking in a mirror at their future selves – uncanny and especially heartwarming, as it gave us hope that these were wines that would age equally gracefully.

TASTING NOTES