If you think that Chianti is all about the straw-wrapped bottle, think again. Yes, time was that people prized Chianti as much, if not more, for the bottle it came in (and its ability to do double-duty as a candle holder) as for what was inside, but times have changed. Today, Chianti wine is reaching new heights of quality and making quite a comeback.

Hailing from Italy’s Tuscany region, the demarcated Chianti area is concentrated between Florence and Siena. Here, the Sangiovese grape plays the starring role, but may be blended with other grape varieties including small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Among the most well-known Chianti producers, Ruffino has been family-owned for over 130 years, with the current family having acquired the company in 1913. Today, Ruffino owns seven estates in Tuscany, with each estate having a unique climate and soil, giving a different character to each wine.

At the entry level, the Ruffino Chianti Superiore DOCG 2008 provides youthful aromas of cherry and a slight vegetal note, along with bright acidity, medium tannins, and cherry, vegetal and oak on the palate. At $12.99 SRP, this food-friendly wine offers good value. The Superiore designation indicates that the wine was produced from lower yielding vines and was aged longer than Chianti DOCG (minimum of nine months).

Moving up Ruffino’s hierarchy is its Ducale Trilogy, featuring Il Ducale, the Riserva Ducale and the Riserva Ducale Oro. The Ruffino Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006 is produced from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The first use of the term Riserva is because this wine had historically  been reserved for the Duke (Ducale) and the latter use is because the wine has been aged for a minimum of two years by law. The Oro (gold label) is only made in exceptional years. The wine shows developing aromas of blackcherry, oak, tomato and herbs. Flavors of  sour cherry, oak and tomato continue on the palate throughout the wine’s long length. This deeper, fuller-bodied wine is listed at $24.99 SRP.