Category Archives: Wine

Asti Spumante DOCG

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With the holiday season upon us, it is a great opportunity to celebrate with sparkling wine. Aside from Champagne, there are numerous options available to consumers.

Asti Spumante, a sweet sparkler from the Piedmont region in Italy, is a great wine to serve with dessert, salty cuisine or as an aperitif. Like most other sparkling wines, Asti is the product of a second fermentation, during which the CO2 is retained in the wine. However, since it is produced from the Moscato Bianco grape, a very aromatic variety, the wine is not kept in contact with the dead yeast cells (as is the case in Champagne and similarly-styled sparklers) in order to preserve the fresh fruit and floral aromas and flavors. At an average 7% abv, it is light and delicate, with a gentle froth on the palate.

A sister wine, Moscato d’Asti, is made with the same grapes, but has a higher sugar content, lower alcohol level and fewer atmospheres of pressure. This latter difference accounts for the use of a regular wine bottle.

As a DOCG wine (it was promoted to this status in 1993), as opposed to a DOC wine, Asti Spumante is carefully regulated by the consortium. The extra “G” stands for Garantita – guaranteed – with quality control monitored at all stages including chemical analyses of the must to verify that the proper grapes are being used, tasting evaluations to ensure that the wines meet quality standards and further checks once the wine has made its way into the market.

FREE TASTINGS
Now through December 5, consumers have the opportunity to receive a complimentary taste of Asti Spumante at participating restaurants throughout New York City. Visit the Alta Cucina Society’s website for the full listing.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Where the Bargains Are…Revisited (November 2009)

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Wow, Fall seems to be literally flying by as Grand Cru Classes completes a whirlwind of projects in October and November. Among our many endeavors, we are thrilled to be providing staff training to the esteemed Four Seasons Restaurant in Manhattan and for Park Place Wines in tony East Hampton.

In between preparing custom training materials and introducing dozens of people to the world of wine, Tracy has had her nose in the books as she studied for Year 1 (of 3) of the American Wine Society’s Wine Judging Certification program. An educational session and Year 1 exam were presented at the annual conference held in Destin, Florida earlier this month. She also “appeared” on Heritage Radio Network’s At the Root of It with Erin Fitzpatrick for the October 27 episode.

November marks the end of our public class sessions in Mattituck for 2009, so if you wish to take a class with us this season, please check our schedule and sign up. Public classes will resume in May. However, private events may be booked with us all year.

In fact, as the allure of the holiday season comes upon us, why not consider a special wine tasting or wine and cheese event in place of your usual holiday party? With years of event planning experience, we can provide you with an elegant affair that your guests will fondly remember.

Beyond entertaining, Grand Cru Classes offers beautifully-packaged gift certificates. Give the gift of a public wine class, a private wine event or consultation services for wine shopping or developing a wine cellar. To make your gift even more special, all gift certificates purchased between now and December 31 will be sent with a set of handmade wine charms.

Finally, if you need to stock up on break-resistant, crystal stemware, now is the time. These glasses also make great gifts. Our next order with Schott-Zweisel will be placed by November 30th. Please contact us directly to receive a catalog of style choices and pricing.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

WHERE THE BUYS ARE…REVISITED

A recent study, commissioned by Italian wine producer Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, revealed interesting differences between Italian and U.S. wine consumers. It seems that Italian wine drinkers are more focused on quality and thus, continue to buy wine at the same quality levels as previously during this economic downturn. However, they are buying fewer bottles. Conversely, according to a Nielsen Group study, during this recession, Americans are drinking in the same quantities, but have adjusted the price point of their purchases. Accordingly, if one used to buy wine in the $15-$20 range, that same consumer is likely now buying wines in the $10-$15 price bracket. With this in mind, we turn our attention to tips and tricks for finding where the bargains are.

Lesser-known Neighbors
In wine, as in real estate, it’s all about location, location, location. With the popularity of key grape varieties, wine regions or both, the price of these wines escalates. Meanwhile, wines that hail from “the wrong side of the tracks” can offer consumers great value. More specifically, if you enjoy the crisp acidity, citrus aromas and flavors and minerality of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé from France’s Loire Valley, look to the villages of Quincy, Reuilly and Menetou-Salon for similarly styled wines at lower price points. The vaunted Sauternes of Bordeaux is prized for its botrytis-affected dessert wines, but the favorable conditions that exist to create these wines are not confined to this single area. Wines from satellite communes Loupiac, Cadillac, Cerons and Ste. Croix du Mont may not have the same longevity, but will provide better bang for your buck for early consumption.

Know thy Vintage and/or Producer
Scaling back on your Burgundy purchases? Generic appellations (AC Bourgogne vs. AC Gevry-Chambertin) from well-regarded négociants (such as Latour, Drouhin and Jadot) will provide good quality wines less expensively. Other Burgundian options are to seek out wines from districts other than the famed Côtes de Nuits and Côtes de Beaune (collectively known as the Côte d’Or) – Côte Chalonnaise offers good Pinot Noirs while Macon, especially Pouilly-Fuissé) is regarded for its Chardonnays. Bordeaux is all about vintage, so choose lesser known producers in great years (2000, 2003, 2005) or search out better producers in “shadow vintages,” those years that got lost in the hoopla of better rated vintages (i.e., 2001 and 2004), for more reasonable options.

Where the Buys Are 2009
Still considered up and coming, Chilean wines are seeing significant improvement in their quality while still being available at the lower end of the market. In particular, Sauvignon Blanc from Leyda and Carmenere from the Maule Valley are terrific choices. Finally, don’t overlook Long Island. While often thought to be expensive wines, a recent blind tasting of Long Island wines pitted against their international peers found that not only did the wines compare favorably on the palate, they usually much less expensive than the competition.

Tasting Notes

Cascina Ca’Rossa, Roero Arneis «Merica» 2008, Piedmont, Italy, $14.95
This wine is made from the Arneis grape, which is indigenous to the Piedmont region, located in northwestern Italy. On the nose, there are aromas of floral, almond and honey. On the palate, flavors of lime, almond, straw and honey linger throughout the long length. 

Pierre Sparr, Selection Series Riesling 2008, Alsace, France, $14.00
As with most Alsatian wines, this one is varietally correct, truly showing off Riesling’s peach and citrus aromas and flavors. The palate is dry with high acidity and medium length. 

Channing Daughters, Scuttlehole Chardonnay 2008, The Hamptons, $16.00
This unoaked Chardonnay held its own when blind tasted amidst wines from Chablis and Pouilly-Fuissé. Youthful aromas of floral, mineral and lime persist on the palate and are joined by lemon and stone. Crisp acidity and concentrated fruit are balanced by its full body.

Château Teyssier, St. Emilion Grand Cru 2006, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
Aromas of black fruit and molasses greet the nose. The palate is dry with medium acidty and medium tannins, along with flavors of blackberry, coffee, and spice. 

Casas Patronales, Carmenere Reserva 2008, Maule Valley, Chile, $10.00
This producer’s Reserva wines spend 6 months aged in oak, but the wines are not overly oaky. The Carmenere is dry with medium body and medium acidity. Its palate is spicy with red fruits/raspberry and slight earth flavors culminating in medium+ length.

Industria Argentina – authentic Argentine cuisine in the heart of NYC

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If  you are looking for authentic Argentinean food, look no further than Industria Argentina, located  in TriBeCa. Opened in 2005, the restaurant boasts beautiful design and decor, all of which was imported from Argentina, including the artwork that adorns the walls and the planks on the hardwood floors. Of course, Chef Natalia Machado was also imported. She hails from Buenos Aires, but having spent her summers in Ushuaia, she counted the penguins along the beach among her pets/playmates as a child. Industria Argentina recently hosted a series of special dinners paired with wines from Argentine producer, Finca Flichman. With both culinary school and significant professional cooking experience, Natalia brings her heritage to the kitchen, serving up regional specialties from north to south, which was reflected in the four-course menu. Drawing from Argentina’s melding of Spain, Italy and England, the cuisine incorporated a myriad of traditions, but was all expertly executed. Situated at the southern tip of the South American continent, the waters off the coast of Ushuaia are quite cold, similar to those off the coast of Alaska, and provide fertile fishing ground. Fished from these waters, the first course consisted of pan-seared sea scallops, served over smoked almond pesto and tomato compote. The pesto was a lovely, fresh accompaniment to the earthy tomatoes and seared scallops. Picking up on the smokey and earthy note, an oaked, full-bodied Chardonnay matched nicely.
Finca Flichman Chardonnay Roble 2008, Mendoza, Argentina
Notes of apple, spice and slight oak, full-bodied, medium acidity. A hearty stew of slow braised lamb and pumpkins, joined by Andean corn and peach chutney, followed the scallops. Served in a jack-be-little pumpkin, the dish was visually stunning as well as delicious. It paired beautifully with a Reserve Malbec, which was well-balanced and elegant on the palate.
Finca Flichman Malbec Reserva 2007, Mendoza, Argentina
Aromas of blackberry, blueberry, spice and oak persist on the palate with long length. Grilled rib eye steak, with mixed potatoes and chimichurri sauce (homemade and available at the restaurant for $6.00/jar) came next. The steak was well prepared, but the potatoes seemed to steal all of the praise, with many of the diners clearing their plates. An Argentine blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with firm tannins and concentrated fruit complimented the steak.
Finca Flichman Paisaje de Tupungato 2006, Mendoza, Argentina
Smoke, black fruits and herbal notes dominate the nose and palate with medium+ tannins. The dessert course featured a traditional dish of candied pumpkin, Zapallos en Almibar. The pumpkins are treated with lime (calcium carbonate, not the citrus fruit), which draws out the moisture and heightens the flavors. The dried pumpkin is then caramelized in simple syrup. A dry, sparkling wine helped to cleanse the palate between bites of the extremely sweet dessert.
Finca Flichman Extra Brut NV, Mendoza, Argentina
Citrus and mineral notes with high acidity. For more info: 
Industria Argentina
329 Greenwich St
New York, NY 10013-3318
(212) 965-8560
Appetizers average $12.00; Entrees range from 18.00-28.00 for single dishes, $42.00-52.00 for two.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Taming of the Brew (October 2009)

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Several years ago, we visited my parents at their home in Ashland, Oregon and had the opportunity to attend their town’s renowned Shakespeare Festival where we saw Taming of the Shrew. While Petruchio worked hard to “tame” Katherina, vintners in Cahors, France have put their energies toward taming the tannins in their wines.

Here at home, Tracy hopes that taming of her students will not be necessary as she begins teaching WSET Intermediate Certificate at the International Wine Center later this month. She completed an intensive teacher training program with the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET) in August and is now ready to hit the ground running.

Jared has been equally busy, completing Murray’s Cheese Boot Camp in late September, which entailed 15 hours of intensive cheese study over three days. All told, he consumed about three pounds of cheese while tasting through over 65 samples.

Both our wine and cheese knowledge are being well-utilized by clients this month as we provide training in French wines for the crew of a private yacht and present a special “Welcome to Long Island” wine and cheese party for a wedding on Shelter Island.

We are also delighted to announce that we were featured in Edible East End’s High Summer issue: To Drink, Perchance to Teach.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

TAMING OF THE BREW

“‘They have tamed the tannins.'” Such was the pronouncement from Elin McCoy, noted wine writer and author, at a tasting event launching the Cahors campaign in the U.S. Traditionally known for extremely tight and tannic wines, Cahors, situated in Southwest France, was called “the black wine” in the 13th century. However, as McCoy explained, today’s wines are much more approachable with less tannic grip than the wines of old. 

The tiny village of Cahors is home to only 5,000 inhabitants, but boasts two UNESCO heritage sites – Valentré Bridge and Cathédrale Saint-Étienne. There are 430 growers producing AOC Cahors, all of which is red and produced with a minimum of 70% Malbec, which hails from this region despite Argentina’s market dominance with this grape. The terrain is divided among the plateau, slope and valley, with grapes from the various parcels blended together to create deeper complexity.

Present day wines can be grouped into one of three wine styles: intense and complex (100% Malbec); feisty and powerful (85-100% Malbec) and tender and fruity (70-85% Malbec). Not surprisingly, the more expensive wines tend to fall into the first category. However these wines still represent good value with the majority of them ranging from $10.00 to $20.00. At this price point, the wines offer ataste of their origin and are really quite interesting, giving the consumer great wines for the price. 

Cahors typically display aromas and flavors of black fruits, such as blackberry and blueberry, and hints of mushrooms (with age). They also show some minerality and finish with fresh acidity and firm, but ripe, tannins. Compared to Argentine Malbecs, Cahors wines are less fruit-driven and retain more elegance with lighter, less jammy aromas and flavors. These wines are food friendly and pair well with local cuisines – notably truffles, foie gras and cassoulet, but could just as easily complement barbecue fare, grilled meats and game. 

Located not too far from Bordeaux, the regions share the same climate and annual weather patterns. Consequently, the two mirror each other in terms of vintage quality and variation. In great vintages such as 2005 and 2008, the wines are capable of ageing well with as much as 10-15 years of cellaring. Less stellar years provide an opportunity to drink the wines young.

As part of the campaign to promote these wines, a special Cahors glass (the only region with its own official stemware) and special bottle were commissioned. The Cahors glass has a ring in the stem, which permits one to place their fingers in it when holding the glass.

Tasting Notes

TENDER & FRUITY
Château Croze de Pys, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $10.00
Aromas of plum and blackberry greet the nose of this 100% Malbec wine. With an attractive freshness and good fruit, the palate offers vibrant acidity and firm tannins along with notes of blackberry and slight earth. 

Château Les Croisille, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $12.00
Blended with approximately 15% Merlot, this deep ruby wine has black fruit aromas. Blackberry and herbal, spice, savory and olive, well-balanced with long length. 

FEISTY & POWERFUL
Château La Caminade, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $21.00
A pronounced nose of smoke, bramble fruit and a hint of savory leaps from the glass. Similarly, the wine is powerful on the palate, with deep and rich flavors of blackcherry, herbal, wood/oak and earth, coupled with firm, but ripe tannins, 

INTENSE & COMPLEX
Château de Haute-Serre, Cahors 2004, Cahors, France, $18.00
Made from 100% Malbec, black fruits, spice and pepper notes fill the nose. However, on the palate, the wine is brighter, showing raspberry, earth and gamey flavors. 

Domaine Cosse Masionneuve, « Les Laquets » Cahors 2004, Cahors, France, $45.00
Proprietors Mathieu Cosse and Catherine Maisonneuve started their small domaine in 1999 and make their wines as naturally as possible, practicing biodynamic principles. Nearly opaque, the wine shows mineral/flint notes along with floral and blueberry aromas. On the palate, lush fruit flavors of blackcherry and blackberry are joined by vanilla and hints of stone and herbal.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Getting down and dirty (September 2009)

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As summer comes to an end, the North Fork is gearing up for harvest and will soon be ready to get down and dirty in the vineyard. If you are heading out to the North Fork this Fall season, you are sure to get caught up in the season’s excitement.

Grand Cru Classes is buzzing with its own excitement as we debut our new Where the (Wine) Bargains Are class on September 13 at 2:00 PM, joining our ever-popular From Vine to Wine class and others on the schedule. In addition, we will be presenting a five-week wine appreciation series for the Town of Riverhead’s Department of Recreation. If you can’t make it out East, you can catch Tracy at NYU where she will teach two classes: Exploring Italian Wines from North to South (5-weeks beginning October 6) and Seven Wines That Will Devastate Your Friends (one session – November 17). See NYU’s website to register.

Aside from teaching classes, we are thrilled to be bottling our first wine, produced from neighbor Macari Vineyards’ grapes from the vaunted 2007 harvest. This wine is not available for sale, but has been a wonderful opportunity for Jared and two friends to get hands-on experience in winemaking.

On a final note, we are pleased to announce the following special offer. The French Wine Society will host its 2nd annual conference this October 4-7 in Washington D.C. In addition to in-depth seminars, the conference will also include the launch of the Cheeses of France Academy (and its teaching materials), the French Wine Scholar certification exam, along with Master-Level certificate exams for both the Rhône Valley and Provence. The French Wine Society is extending a 10% discount to Grand Cru Grapevine subscribers. Please use discount code: RIUT6B when registering for the conference. For more details on the conference, please see the French Wine Society’s website.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

GETTING DOWN AND DIRTY

With harvest just around the corner, the vineyards will be filled with workers. While certainly imbued with more romance than harvesting other fruit, picking grapes is hard work, requiring pickers to stoop and bend as they examine each cluster before cutting it from the vine. By the end of the day, the harvest workers will be covered in sweat and dirt. 

And, as Ronnie LaCroute, proprietor of WillaKenzie Estate in Oregon, states in her email signature file, “Dirt Matters.” In fact, soil is one of the major factors that influence winemaking. Some of the influence is simple. For example, dark soils help to retain heat overnight, while white-colored soils can reflect the sunlight onto the grapes, ensuring ripeness in an otherwise marginal climate. More complex is the influence of the soil content on the finished wine whereby the mineral content is often reflected in the flavor profile of the wines, creating wines that truly taste of the terroir (place they were grown and made). Consequently, throughout the world, there are key soils that are highly prized.

Here are just a few examples of how “dirt matters”. In Champagne, the calcareous soils are high in calcium and help the grapes to retain their natural acidity. Elsewhere in France, the assortment of limestone, silex and gravel are felt to account for flint and mineral notes in Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs, especially those from Sancerre. Within Australia, Coonawarra is known for producing Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, the high quality of which is attributed to the terra rossa soils found there. Terra rossa is a red-colored soil, which consists of clay over limestone, providing good drainage. On New Zealand’s North Island in Hawkes Bay, an area known as Gimblett Gravels is among the first appellations in the New World truly based on terroir rather than political boundaries. After the Ngaruroro River flooded in the 1860s, dry beds of gravel were exposed. The vineyard land, mainly planted to Bordeaux varieties, forces the vines to go extremely deep to find water and results in high quality wines.

Regardless of the region and the soils present in the area, the grape variety, climate, annual weather conditions, viticultural practices and vinification techniques also play an important role in winemaking. These factors, coupled with the soil type, will ultimately be responsible for influencing what ends up in the glass.

Tasting Notes

St. Urbans-hof, Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett 2008, Mosel, Germany, $17.00
The term “kabinett” refers to the ripeness level of the grapes at harvest, with kabinett being the starting point of the scale, which is reserved for quality wines only. Aromas include typical Riesling notes of floral and peach. On the palate, the wine is off-dry, with flavors of peach and a mineral undercurrent.

Benjamin Vieux, Château Gaubert, Graves Blanc 2005, Bordeaux, France, $17.00
Graves is the French word for gravel and this area within Bordeaux has a large concentration of gravel within its soils that help with drainage. Produced from a blend of 60% Semillon and 40% Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is starting to show some development with aromas of yeast, apple and honey. Dry, with crisp acidity, it shows flavors of yeast, oak, smokiness and citrus, culminating in long length. 

WillaKenzie Estate, Pierre-Léon Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley (Oregon), US, $38.00
WillaKenzie, a type of soil that originates from the pushed up sea floor is found in the Willamette Valley’s Yamhill-Carlton and Ribbon Ridge areas. With a beautifully perfumed nose accompanied by a note of fresh raspberries, this wine continues to deliver on the palate with raspberry, earth, minerality and an undercurrent of wet leaves. 

Cakebread Merlot 2005, Napa Valley (California), US $54.00
This Merlot is blended with 22% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Syrah with fruit sourced from Rutherford, Oakville and Calistoga. Notes of red and black fruits along with cinnamon/spice greet the nose. Aged for 18 months in French oak barrels (45% of which were new), the vibrant acidity and medium tannins on the palate are well balanced with flavors of cherry, slight earth, and spice.

Vilafonte Series C 2004, Stellenbosch, South Africa, $59.00
A collaboration between South African producer Warwick Estates and famed California winemaker Zelma Long, Vilafonte is named for a soil type. The “Series C” is a blend heavy on Cabernet Sauvignon (Series M is more Merlot based) with aromas of currant, vanilla, black fruits. On the palate, black currant, herbal and coffee notes comingle with firm tannins, finishing with long length.

Gentlemen prefer blondes – Xavier Flouret French Blonde

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They say gentlemen prefer blondes. Here, the “blonde” in question is Xavier Flouret’s French Blonde.

This wine hails from Sancerre, a wine region located within the Central Vineyards section of France’s Loire Valley. As an appellation wine from Sancerre, the wine is produced from 100% Sauvignon Blanc.

Distributed by Cognac One, the Xavier Flouret Wines consist of a curated portfolio of boutique wines from established family vineyards around the world. In the case of the French Blonde, the wines are crafted by the Chatelain family, which has been growing vines since 1630, with the 12th generation family members – Jean-Claude Chatelain and son Vincent – currently at the helm. The vines themselves average 30 years old.

The wine was fermented in stainless steel neither adding nor subtracting flavor from this aromatic grape variety, followed by four months of ageing on the lees (spent yeast cells), and two month bottle ageing before release.

On the nose, the wine displays youthful citrus/lime aromas. On the palate, it has vibrant acidity with concentrated fruit flavors of lime, grapefruit and hay, finishing with a slight undercurrent of stone.

From Croatia with love – Plavac Mali

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Decanter’s World Wine Awards were announced earlier this week, with Angela Muir MW (regional chair for Central and Eastern European wines) noting that, “Croatia really was the discovery of this year.”
In fact, Croatian wines brought home 27 medals in all: 8 Gold, 5 Silver, 11 Bronze and 3 commended.

Among the winners, the Zlatan Plavac Mali Barrique received a Silver medal for its 2006 vintage. The Plavac Mali grape originated in Croatia as a cross between Zinfandel and another indigenous grape, Dobricic. In general, Plavac Mali produces wines that have high tannins, high alcohol, deep color and can age well. While Croatian wines still aren’t prevalent in the U.S. market, several Plavac Mali wines are available in the U.S.

Dingac Ivo Plavac Mali 2006
100% Plavac Mali
Dingac Region, Dalmatia, Croatia
Astor Wines – $16.00 (2007 vintage)
From the Dingac region, an island off the coast of Croatia, this wine spends 18 months is Slovenian oak and displays red fruit and herbal notes, with long length.

Lirica Plavac Mali 2005
100% Plavac Mali
Dingac Region, Dalmatia, Croatia
Crush Wine Co – $22.00 (2007 vintage)
Produced in stainless steel, this wine has an earthy nose with vibrant acidity and firm, but ripe, tannins and earth and cherry flavors on the palate.

Zlatan Plavac Barrique 2007
100% Plavac Mali
Island of Hvar, Dalmatia, Croatia
Columbus Circle Wines – $44.00 (2005 vintage)
Cultivated on 45-degree slopes along the coast, this wine spends 12 months in oak. Dry with herbal, earth and berries, oak, ripe tannins, long length.

Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru 2005
100% Plavac Mali
Island of Hvar, Dalmatia, Croatia
Mt. Carmel Wines – $48.00 (2004 vintage)
From 50 year-old vines, this wine is aged in new barriques for 18 months. Its nose is earthy, herbal and red fruits. On the palate, it is concentrated with berries, tobacco and herbs. Needs time for the tannins to soften.

For more info: See the importer’s website for maps and more information on the region.

Wine shopping habits, wine scores and Costco

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A recent study, commissioned by Italian wine producer Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, revealed interesting differences between Italian and U.S. wine consumers. It seems that Italian wine drinkers are more focused on quality and thus, continue to buy wine at the same quality levels as previously during this economic downturn. However, they are buying fewer bottles.

Conversely, according to a Nielsen Group study, Americans are drinking in the same quantities, but have adjusted the price point of their purchases. Accordingly, if one used to buy wine in the $15-$20 range, that same consumer is likely now buying wines in the $10-$15 price bracket.

These studies and the comparisons drawn across them serve as an interesting barometer for wine sales during this economic crisis. As the U.S. is poised to become the largest wine market, retailers that offer a wide range of wines at lower price points should fare well.

However, a report from Rabobank indicates that consumers who are trading down in their preferences will possibly maintain their purchasing at the lower level for a long time. Therefore, the long term prognosis for higher end wines (above $15.00) does not bode well.

Concurrent with this news is the rumor that Costco will be changing its policy to limit its new wine purchases to 90+ point wines which retail for $15 or under. If the rumor is valid, Costco should be well positioned to sell wine both in the current and future economic environments.

Fellow Examiner, Dennis Schaefer (Kansas City Wine Examiner), who lives in a state where it is legal to purchase wine in a supermarket, is very alarmed about this potential new policy, fearing homogenization . Similar concern was voiced in New York when the issue of selling wine in NY State grocery stores was up for a vote. However, I am not convinced that this doomsday prediction will come to fruition in the way people envision. For example, Dennis suggests that certain wines will be excluded by this approach such as Vinho Verde. Yet, there are certainly Vinho Verde wines on the market that have indeed achieved good scores and fit within the price band; maybe not as many as Chardonnay, but they do exist. 

Costco has denied the rumor, but, regardless of whether Costco does alter its buying practices, consumer buying habits, with respect to wine ratings and shelf talkers, are likely to continue. Given that the average wine consumer is trading down and many have limited wine knowledge (and frequently, even less confidence in their ability to select wine), the opportunity to buy wines that experts have rated makes them feel more comfortable in buying wine, especially at lower price points (higher prices are often unconsciously thought to be of higher quality). 

While I am not personally a fan of relying on wine scores, I certainly do not condemn people who do, and, especially after my experience in working for a wine importer, recognize the power of high scores to sell wine. Consequently, it would be foolish for retailers not to promote these reviews, especially in larger stores where hand selling is not an option. We may find that wines that do not make the cut (those scoring 80-89) will find a home in smaller wine stores with well-trained sales associates that have the opportunity to tell these wines’ stories.

In any case, the wine industry definitely has its work cut out for them if they want to sell wines above $15.00 for the foreseeable future. Further, if we want consumers to think outside the wine score box, we will need to do a better job in educating them about wine and what quality wine really means beyond simple ratings. Moreover, we need to help them trust their palates and wine preferences. With such progress, we might see less elasticity in U.S. consumers’ wine purchases during the next economic downturn.

Bordeaux futures — the 2008 en primeur campaign

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The Bordeaux Futures campaign kicked off this month, providing consumers with the opportunity to purchase wines from this vintage. The wines are currently still in barrel, ageing in the cellars of their respective Chateaux. Accordingly, wines bought now won’t be delivered until 2011. Robert Parker and other wine critics have declared this to be a good vintage, but note that it is not on par with 2000 or 2005. More specifically, they are comparing it to 2001.

Given the economic climate, the initial prices have been dropped with some wines being offered at the same prices as 2004. However, some of the prices have since increased as purchases have been made, indicating more interest from the trade than was initially expected.

While some people have cautioned that it is not necessary to buy this vintage during the Futures campaign given the economic climate, others have suggested that this is a great opportunity to buy Bordeaux from a quality year, at more reasonable prices than we had seen.

As an indication of the mixed messages, some wine merchants who traditionally offer a large selection of Bordeaux wines through a Futures campaign have decided to forgo participation this year or will be offering only a small set of wines to their customers.

For consumers who do choose to buy en primeur, it is extremely important to buy from a reputable merchant to ensure that you will actually receive the wine you purchase. The key issues are that the store will still be in business when 2011 rolls around and, more importantly, that you are not being scammed as had been the case with a number of dishonest people in 2003 with the 2000 campaign.

If you don’t have a trusted store (or if yours isn’t offering Bordeaux Futures), here are a few recommendations. I have personally had continued success with Sherry-Lehmann, which has posted a list of 59 wines to its site for the 2008 campaign. I have not bought Futures from, but would also recommend, Zachy’s (located in Scarsdale, but you can do a search on their site with key words: Bordeaux 2008) and Acker, Merrall & Condit (no information is on their site, but you can call and speak with a salesperson to discuss availability). In addition, while I am less familiar with Gary’s Wine & Marketplace, they, too, are offering Bordeaux futures (there are 38 wines listed on their site) and they have a good reputation. Obviously, this is not an exhaustive list.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Back to the Futures (June 2009)

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In the film, Back to the Future, Marty McFly heads to the past (1955 to be exact), but must travel back to the future (1985) to avoid tampering with history. Conversely, the Bordelais winemakers constantly look to the future – the future of their wine – on the open market. Like other commodities, understanding wine futures can be somewhat complicated, so we endeavor to explain the annual en primeur campaign, as it is known, which kicks off this month.

Firmly rooted in the present, Grand Cru Classes has just returned from a fabulous trip to Oregon’s Willamette Valley. It was a wonderful weekend of Pinot Noir, with visits to a number of wineries, most notably Willakenzie Estate and Anne Amie. If you have the opportunity to visit this wine region, we highly recommend it.

However, if you are staying closer to home these days, why not visit the wineries out on the North Fork of Long Island, stopping by to take a class with us before hitting the tasting rooms? Our Long Island Wines: From Potatoes to Parker Points is a terrific overview to the region’s history, while our From Vine to Wine class serves as a solid foundation of wine knowledge. Please visit our website for a full schedule of public classes. Alternately, let us bring our Personal Wine Party or other wine event to your home, office or other venue of your choosing.

And, for wine updates in between our monthly newsletters, sign up for email alerts for Tracy’s NY Wine Shopping Examiner column on Examiner.com.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

BACK TO THE FUTURES

Would a clothing manufacturer create a new fashion line and then hold it in a warehouse for over a year, taking up costly space and not producing revenue? Of course not. It seems like such a foolish business model, but that is exactly what happens with most wineries. Grapes are harvested in Year X, but many wines, especially reds, aren’t bottled and released until Year X+2 (or even longer in some cases). Accordingly, wineries must wait several years before they can realize income on a given vintage.

In an effort to increase cash flow during this waiting period while the wines mature in barrel, France’s Bordeaux region adopted the practice of selling futures. Wine merchants are invited to taste barrel samples, a full year before release and then purchase them ahead of time. Like any investment, it is not without some inherent risks – the wines will change over the course of the year, prices may go down, currencies fluctuate, etc. Yet, the potential rewards are securing highly coveted wines before they are sold out and possibly at a lower price than when they are released.

Each April, merchants and journalists descend upon Bordeaux to taste the wines, with prices set by the producers (aka the chateaux) several months later. In the meantime, the critics make their pronouncement on the overall quality of the vintage and publish tasting notes and scores on individual wines. As with other wine ratings, these can often make or break a futures campaign and will also impact pricing. The “blue chip” wines are generally those that were classified (Grand Cru Classé) in 1855, but many other producers have established reputations as well and consequently command high prices for their wines.

The Bordeaux futures campaign kicks off sales to consumers in June, with some of the large retail stores offering a selection of wines from the vintage – in this case 2008, which has been well regarded by wine journalists (but not extolled). Wines ordered now will be delivered in the latter half of 2011. While some have suggested that there is no need to buy futures this year, if you do choose to purchase Bordeaux futures, it is extremely important to find a reputable merchant to ensure that you will indeed receive your wines; scams in this arena are not uncommon. And, unless you are Marty McFly, you will have difficulty going back to 2009 to undo your purchase.

Tasting Notes

Château Bonnet, Bordeaux Blanc 2007, Entre-Deux-Mers, France, $10.00
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle (50%, 40% and 10%, respectively), this wine provides youthful aromas of lemon, hay, apple and slight yeast. With vibrant acidity, the palate has flavors of lime, grapefruit and stone.

Château Bellevue, Bordeaux, 2005, Médoc, France, $15.00
From the much-hyped 2005 vintage, this is an affordable option. On the nose, the wine displays youthful aromas of black currant, tobacco leaf and eucalyptus. Its medium+ tannins are ripe and balance well with flavors of blackberry, currant, oak and graphite, ending with very long length.

Château Moulin de Lagnet 2004, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, France, $30.00
Overshadowed by the great 2000 and 2005 vintages, 2004 provides good value. This wine hails from St. Emilion on the right bank of Bordeaux. Consequently, it is heavily dominated by Merlot with aromas and flavors of plum, cherry and some herbal/earthy notes. 

Château Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville 2003, Pauillac, France, $85.00
The 2003 vintage was the year of the summer heat wave that swept across Europe, hitting record highs. Despite the unusual climatic conditions, this wine has developed nicely, showing concentrated red and black fruits and heavy, but ripe, tannins. 

Château Montrose 1971, St. Estephe, France, $90.00
With a complex nose showing aromas of currant, raspberry and strawberry, joined by notes of floral, grass and dried herbs, this wine has aged beautifully. On the palate, there is dried plum, strawberry, black currant and some slight oak and spice.
NB: This chateau’s second wine is La Dame de Montrose, which retails for about $25.00 for the 2007 vintage.