Category Archives: Wine World

Bordeaux futures — the 2008 en primeur campaign

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The Bordeaux Futures campaign kicked off this month, providing consumers with the opportunity to purchase wines from this vintage. The wines are currently still in barrel, ageing in the cellars of their respective Chateaux. Accordingly, wines bought now won’t be delivered until 2011. Robert Parker and other wine critics have declared this to be a good vintage, but note that it is not on par with 2000 or 2005. More specifically, they are comparing it to 2001.

Given the economic climate, the initial prices have been dropped with some wines being offered at the same prices as 2004. However, some of the prices have since increased as purchases have been made, indicating more interest from the trade than was initially expected.

While some people have cautioned that it is not necessary to buy this vintage during the Futures campaign given the economic climate, others have suggested that this is a great opportunity to buy Bordeaux from a quality year, at more reasonable prices than we had seen.

As an indication of the mixed messages, some wine merchants who traditionally offer a large selection of Bordeaux wines through a Futures campaign have decided to forgo participation this year or will be offering only a small set of wines to their customers.

For consumers who do choose to buy en primeur, it is extremely important to buy from a reputable merchant to ensure that you will actually receive the wine you purchase. The key issues are that the store will still be in business when 2011 rolls around and, more importantly, that you are not being scammed as had been the case with a number of dishonest people in 2003 with the 2000 campaign.

If you don’t have a trusted store (or if yours isn’t offering Bordeaux Futures), here are a few recommendations. I have personally had continued success with Sherry-Lehmann, which has posted a list of 59 wines to its site for the 2008 campaign. I have not bought Futures from, but would also recommend, Zachy’s (located in Scarsdale, but you can do a search on their site with key words: Bordeaux 2008) and Acker, Merrall & Condit (no information is on their site, but you can call and speak with a salesperson to discuss availability). In addition, while I am less familiar with Gary’s Wine & Marketplace, they, too, are offering Bordeaux futures (there are 38 wines listed on their site) and they have a good reputation. Obviously, this is not an exhaustive list.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Back to the Futures (June 2009)

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In the film, Back to the Future, Marty McFly heads to the past (1955 to be exact), but must travel back to the future (1985) to avoid tampering with history. Conversely, the Bordelais winemakers constantly look to the future – the future of their wine – on the open market. Like other commodities, understanding wine futures can be somewhat complicated, so we endeavor to explain the annual en primeur campaign, as it is known, which kicks off this month.

Firmly rooted in the present, Grand Cru Classes has just returned from a fabulous trip to Oregon’s Willamette Valley. It was a wonderful weekend of Pinot Noir, with visits to a number of wineries, most notably Willakenzie Estate and Anne Amie. If you have the opportunity to visit this wine region, we highly recommend it.

However, if you are staying closer to home these days, why not visit the wineries out on the North Fork of Long Island, stopping by to take a class with us before hitting the tasting rooms? Our Long Island Wines: From Potatoes to Parker Points is a terrific overview to the region’s history, while our From Vine to Wine class serves as a solid foundation of wine knowledge. Please visit our website for a full schedule of public classes. Alternately, let us bring our Personal Wine Party or other wine event to your home, office or other venue of your choosing.

And, for wine updates in between our monthly newsletters, sign up for email alerts for Tracy’s NY Wine Shopping Examiner column on Examiner.com.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

BACK TO THE FUTURES

Would a clothing manufacturer create a new fashion line and then hold it in a warehouse for over a year, taking up costly space and not producing revenue? Of course not. It seems like such a foolish business model, but that is exactly what happens with most wineries. Grapes are harvested in Year X, but many wines, especially reds, aren’t bottled and released until Year X+2 (or even longer in some cases). Accordingly, wineries must wait several years before they can realize income on a given vintage.

In an effort to increase cash flow during this waiting period while the wines mature in barrel, France’s Bordeaux region adopted the practice of selling futures. Wine merchants are invited to taste barrel samples, a full year before release and then purchase them ahead of time. Like any investment, it is not without some inherent risks – the wines will change over the course of the year, prices may go down, currencies fluctuate, etc. Yet, the potential rewards are securing highly coveted wines before they are sold out and possibly at a lower price than when they are released.

Each April, merchants and journalists descend upon Bordeaux to taste the wines, with prices set by the producers (aka the chateaux) several months later. In the meantime, the critics make their pronouncement on the overall quality of the vintage and publish tasting notes and scores on individual wines. As with other wine ratings, these can often make or break a futures campaign and will also impact pricing. The “blue chip” wines are generally those that were classified (Grand Cru Classé) in 1855, but many other producers have established reputations as well and consequently command high prices for their wines.

The Bordeaux futures campaign kicks off sales to consumers in June, with some of the large retail stores offering a selection of wines from the vintage – in this case 2008, which has been well regarded by wine journalists (but not extolled). Wines ordered now will be delivered in the latter half of 2011. While some have suggested that there is no need to buy futures this year, if you do choose to purchase Bordeaux futures, it is extremely important to find a reputable merchant to ensure that you will indeed receive your wines; scams in this arena are not uncommon. And, unless you are Marty McFly, you will have difficulty going back to 2009 to undo your purchase.

Tasting Notes

Château Bonnet, Bordeaux Blanc 2007, Entre-Deux-Mers, France, $10.00
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle (50%, 40% and 10%, respectively), this wine provides youthful aromas of lemon, hay, apple and slight yeast. With vibrant acidity, the palate has flavors of lime, grapefruit and stone.

Château Bellevue, Bordeaux, 2005, Médoc, France, $15.00
From the much-hyped 2005 vintage, this is an affordable option. On the nose, the wine displays youthful aromas of black currant, tobacco leaf and eucalyptus. Its medium+ tannins are ripe and balance well with flavors of blackberry, currant, oak and graphite, ending with very long length.

Château Moulin de Lagnet 2004, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, France, $30.00
Overshadowed by the great 2000 and 2005 vintages, 2004 provides good value. This wine hails from St. Emilion on the right bank of Bordeaux. Consequently, it is heavily dominated by Merlot with aromas and flavors of plum, cherry and some herbal/earthy notes. 

Château Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville 2003, Pauillac, France, $85.00
The 2003 vintage was the year of the summer heat wave that swept across Europe, hitting record highs. Despite the unusual climatic conditions, this wine has developed nicely, showing concentrated red and black fruits and heavy, but ripe, tannins. 

Château Montrose 1971, St. Estephe, France, $90.00
With a complex nose showing aromas of currant, raspberry and strawberry, joined by notes of floral, grass and dried herbs, this wine has aged beautifully. On the palate, there is dried plum, strawberry, black currant and some slight oak and spice.
NB: This chateau’s second wine is La Dame de Montrose, which retails for about $25.00 for the 2007 vintage.

How to buy wine at a wine auction

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Sold! to the highest bidder. Looking to find older or rare vintage wines, but your local wine shop doesn’t carry such a selection? Wine auctions may be a great solution.

There are two wine auctions coming up this month (see below), but before you head to the auction, here are some pointers to get you started.

Wine auctions typically aggregate the contents of various collectors’ cellars (or in some cases, one very prolific collector) when the collector has decided that he or she would like to liquidate some or all of their wine inventory. The best buys are frequently on mixed lots, which contain wines from several different producers and often in small quantities as these are less prized for their investment value as compared to full cases of a single wine.

** Register for the auction in advance, especially if it is being held at a restaurant, to ensure that there is space available. Registration will require you to provide credit card information.

** Peruse the catalog in advance to identify lots in which you have an interest and pay attention to when those lots come up. Lots will be listed with a low estimate and bidding will begin at that price.

** Decide how high you are willing to go and be willing to walk away from a lot that gets too expensive. Don’t get caught up in the moment amidst the frenzy of competitive bidding.

** Be aware that there is some risk involved when buying older wines. Reputable auction houses will spend time testing and tasting a selection of wines to ensure that they are in good condition and will check provenance as well. However, there is no guarantee that the wine will be okay. Accordingly, the catalog will usually indicate overall condition of the bottle — ullage (level of wine), label damage, and other aspects — to advise the buyer. For an extreme example, see my previous story.

** Expect to pay a Buyer’s Premium fee, which can be as high as 20%, above the actual hammer price of the lot.

** Expect to pay for lunch or dinner if you enjoy a meal as part of the auction. Some auctions may permit you to bring your own wine to accompany the meal and will waive the corkage fee.

Upcoming NYC auctions: 
Morrell & Company Fine Wine Auction
June 24, 2009
11:00 AM
Internet only – online bidding
Absentee bidding now open Zachy’s Wine Auction

June 25, 2009
9:00 AM
Restaurant Daniel

Four Seasons restaurant celebrates 50 years as a New York institution

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It was truly an affair to remember: a cocktail hour featuring free-flowing Dom Perignon 1999 and wonderful hor d’oeuvres, a diverse and unique cast of characters and a palpable, celebratory energy in the room. You knew this was going to be a magical event. 

On May 5, moguls, foodies and celebrities alike, gathered to celebrate the Four Seasons restaurant’s 50th year. This venerable restaurant first opened in 1959 and has been a New York landmark ever since. Designed by architects Philip Johnson and Mies van der Rohe in the height of the International Style, the restaurant was among the first to be truly designed for its purpose, long before Adam Tihany and David Rockwell were de rigor for opening a restaurant.

Fourteen years ago, Alex von Bidder and Julian Niccolini took the helm as managing partners of the restaurant and Tuesday night’s event centered squarely on their personalities — Julian’s larger than life; Alex’s nowhere to be seen.

Emceed by Bill O’Shaughnessy, over a dozen took the stage to roast the pair, Friar’s Club style, including: Michael Mondavi, Edgar Bronfman, Liz Smith, Gael Greene, Drew Nieporent, Sirio Maccioni, Jonathan Tisch, Martha Stewart, Cesare Casella, Daniel Boulud, Pete Peterson, Pamela Fiori, Bob Grimes and Peggy Siegal.

Michael Mondavi recounted a visit to the restaurant with his father, Robert, in 1968, noting that only a handful of California wines were listed among the creme de la creme of French and Italian wines. He credited the Four Seasons with being among the first New York restaurants to prominently feature California wines in the wake of the Judgement of Paris.

Beyond the celebrities, everyone seems to have their own fond memories of the Four Seasons. The gentleman seated to my right explained that, when he was in college, he and his friends couldn’t afford to bring their dates to the Four Seasons for dinner, but would end the night at its bar, which made quite an impact on the young ladies.

Having first dined at the Four Seasons with my father in the mid-1990’s, the Four Seasons quickly became my favorite New York restaurant, to which I return for their magnificent wine dinners and to celebrate special occasions.

If you have not had the pleasure of dining at the Four Seasons restaurant, I urge you to take advantage of their anniversary-inspired, prix fixe menu, which, at $59.00 for three courses, is a relative bargain. It’s a chance to create your own magical moments as the restaurant looks ahead to its next 50 years.

For more info: Four Seasons, 99 East 52nd Street, New York, NY; 212-754-9450

Grand Cru Grapevine: Closure Disclosure (May 2009)

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We are recently back from a trip to Santa Barbara, which is an absolutely lovely place to travel. We were fortunate to visit numerous vineyards and wineries and tasted some fabulous wines.

If you’d like to taste some fabulous wines, while improving your wine knowledge, join us for one of our classes. Our public schedule kicks off this month, with classes held on Saturdays and Sundays. As always, we are available for both personal and corporate private events as well.

We hope you have been enjoying Tracy’s NY Wine Shopping Examiner column on Examiner.com. If you haven’t checked it out yet, be sure to catch up with all of her articles online. Again, suggestions and ideas for articles are always welcome!

You can also catch Tracy’s latest Words of Winedom column, at Big Blend magazine, and/or hear her on Big Blend’s Eat, Drink & Be Merry radio show on Monday, May 11, 2009 at 7:10 PM (EST).

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

CLOSURE DISCLOSURE: CORKED, CAPPED OR SCREWED?

As oxygen is wine’s Kryptonite, sealing a bottle of wine is important. Traditionally, cork, derived from the bark of cork trees, has been the method of choice for wine closures for centuries. However, recent failure rates for cork, reports of which range from 2-12%, are no longer deemed acceptable. The primary failure in question is that of cork taint, caused by a reaction of the Trichloranisole (TCA) bacteria with chlorine/chlorinated-compounds. This negative reaction begins on the surface of the cork and then spreads to the wine itself, rendering it undrinkable and smelling like my wet, moldy basement (or anyone’s wet, moldy basement for that matter). As alternatives, the wine industry has turned to screw caps and crown caps among other products. NB: Crown caps are used for sparkling wines, while screw caps are found on still wines. 

While many people historically associate screw caps with less expensive wines, their use in fine wines is becoming more prevalent. Notably, as of 2006, 90% of all wine made in New Zealand is bottled under a screw cap or crown cap. Australia lags behind, but is still ahead of most countries with its screw cap adoption. In the U.S., consumers have been somewhat slower to demand alternate closures than their Southern hemisphere counterparts, but some of the higher end producers are beginning to make the switch.

The technology has evolved dramatically, especially over the last two years, making these closure choices near perfect. They seem to overcome issues of cork taint, oxidation (spoilage by contact with O2) and reduction (off-flavors from a lack of O2). However, they are not without their critics, with some attributing health-risks with these closures (not well proven or documented). APCOR (the trade organization representing the cork industry) ran its own campaign to laud the advances made in cork technology to address its (former) failures. In fact, a new cork, DIAM, has been launched, which is virtually taint-free, but, quite expensive. Synthetic corks avoid issues with cork taint, but are thought to add a plastic aroma to the wine and can be extremely difficult to remove. Given the pros and cons of the various solutions, it is likely that this debate will continue throughout this decade.

In the meantime, it is clear that both traditional and alternate closures have their place in the market. The merits of one or the other aside, nothing can substitute for proper storage of your wine in order to preserve their quality. Expose your wine to light, heat and/or vibrations and you will be screwed, regardless of the closure on the bottle!

Tasting Notes

Frédéric Mallo, Pinot Gris “Special Delivery”, 2006, Alsace, France, $17.00 – CORK
From a fifth-generation, family-owned estate in Alsace, their Pinot Grigio remains in the tank for a longer period of time (up to one year before bottling) than several other of its wines, giving it a fuller body. It has notes of ripe citrus and pear fruit with clean minerality and long length.

Geyser Peak Chardonnay 2007, Alexander Valley, CA, $14.00 – SCREW CAP
Under the leadership of winemaker Mick Schroeter, Geyser Peak produces expressive wines. With aromas of butter, oak, vanilla, and apple, this wine is dry with medium acidity and flavors of apple, vanilla, (well-integrated) oak, and a slight hint of spice.

Wild Rock Vin Gris 2007, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, $7.00 – SCREW CAP
Deep salmon in color, this rosé has pronounced aromas of ripe strawberry, raspberry, floral and a slight candied note, which persist on the palate with great depth of flavor and fruit concentration. Made from a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah, it is medium bodied with long length.

Casa Santos Lima, Sousão, 2004, Estremadura, Portugal, $15.00 – CORK
Casa Santos Lima, located just north of Lisbon, is a relatively new winery, with its first wines produced in 1996. A porty nose of deep, dark berries gives way to a dry palate with good acidity, a full body, along with rich and ripe berry fruit and notes of chocolate/cocoa. 

Errazuriz, Merlot, 2006, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, $10.00 – SCREW CAP
While only some vineyards of the Errazuriz estate are certified organic, owner Eduardo Chadwick has been adopting these principles throughout his vineyards. With notes of plums, cherries and oak, the 2006 Merlot is blend of 85% Merlot, 11% Carmenere and 4% Sangiovese, with 50% of the wine aged for six months in a combination of American and French oak.

Grand Cru Grapevine: More than Manichewitz (April 2009)

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With Passover just ahead, many people might turn their thoughts to Kosher wines, so this month we explore some great alternatives to the usual plonk. It should be noted that these wines don’t need to be restricted to those who keep Kosher as they are wonderful wines in their own right and can just as easily grace the table for Easter, Tax Day or any other time.

Looking ahead for Grand Cru Classes, we will be launching our public classes next month, with the first class scheduled for Sunday, May 3, 2009, kicking off with our popular From Vine to Wine class at 2:00 PM. You can browse our full events listing or navigate using the calendar on the right side of our site. You may wish to note that, in recognition of the imperfect economy, we will be maintaining our 2008 prices for the 2009 season.

Among other exciting news, Tracy has been named the NY Wine Shopping Examiner for Examiner.com, which is currently the #285 website worldwide. She will be writing her column at least four times a week, on all things wine and retail related – secret shopper expeditions, event announcements, sniffing out sales and testing tools. Suggestions and ideas for articles are always welcome!

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

MORE THAN MANACHEWITZ

Unless one is an observant Jew, the choice of a Kosher wine doesn’t spring to mind except for once a year – Passover, which begins April 8th. F or years, Kosher wines had a deservedly bad reputation. Generally, one was stuck with the sickeningly sweet, Manichewitz Concord wine. But, fortunately, times have changed and many new Kosher wines have emerged as high quality wines that just happen to be Kosher. In fact, there is much more than Manichewitz showing up on retail shelves and they are definitely not wines that should be passed over.

Intuitively, people think of Israel when they think of Kosher wines, but this is a needlessly limited view. Rather, Kosher wines are being produced around the world from Australia and Chile to France and Italy. Regardless of where the wine is from, in order to be Kosher, the wine must be produced in accordance with Jewish dietary and other laws. Most specifically, Kosher wines must not be made with any animal products. For example, some wineries use egg whites to fine their wines, but as egg whites are a product of chickens, other fining agents, such as Bentonite, must be employed instead. 

In addition, the wine must be made under rabbinical supervision and handled solely by Sabbath-observing Jews throughout the entire winemaking process through to the point of service. In order to get around this latter point given the logistical issues it creates, some Kosher wines are heated to 185oF permitting non-Jews (or less observant Jews for that matter) to handle the wine without voiding it of its Kosher status. These wines are referred to as meshuval, which is the Hebrew word for cooked. Newer technology reduces the high heat exposure and consequently, is less likely to negatively impact the wine, as it had in the past, especially as this is frequently done prior to fermentation. Accordingly, today’s Kosher wines are indistinguishable from non-Kosher wines when it comes to the taste.

Tasting Notes

Covenant Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Napa Valley, CA (USA), $100.00
This is certainly a far cry from Concord Grape and if you choose to serve or bring this wine to a seder, please invite me! With grapes sourced from a rocky, three-acre parcel of land within the acclaimed Larkmead Vineyard, this wine has meaty, smoke, oak and black fruit aromas. On the palate, it provides medium acidity and full body, with well-integrated tannins and notes of blackberry, cherry, smoke and an undercurrent of cocoa in the long finish. 

Beckett’s Flat Five Stones, Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2007, Margaret River, Australia, $18.00
A boutique winery in Western Australia, Beckett’s Flat has been producing Kosher wines since 1998. This wine emulates white Bordeaux with its blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon. With nice, vibrant acidity, the wine displays cut grass, lime and grapefruit on the palate. It has long length. 

Abarbanel Riesling 2004, Alsace, France, $22.00 (Meshuval)
This is the only kosher Alsatian Riesling imported to the United States. It is a classic Riesling with tropical fruit and honey aromas on the nose. On the palate, it is dry with high acidity and flavors of citrus, honey and minerality. 

Layla Pinot Noir 2006, Mendoza, Argentina, $14.00 (Meshuval)
The grapes are sourced from the highly prized Luján de Cuyo sub-appellation of Mendoza. Showing strawberry notes on the nose, the wine is dry, with bright acidity. It provides flavors of tart berries with an earthiness in the finish.
NB: While not as food friendly for a seder as the Pinot Noir will be, Layla also produces a Malbec that is very good, with a pronounced nose of black fruit and wet leaves, which give way to raspberry and earth on the palate (also $14.00). 

Efrat Israeli Series Merlot 2007, Israel $12.00 (Meshuval)
Established in 1967, Efrat has been producing wine for over 40 years. It has aromas of cherry and a cola note. This dry wine has medium+ acidity and medium tannins. It displays notes of cherry, cola, and oak, followed by a hint of spice in the long finish.

Grand Cru Grapevine: A River Runs Through It (March 2009)

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With the excessively snow-filled season, I think most of us are ready for winter to be over. Accordingly, March’s arrival and its hints at Spring, which is yet to come, is most welcome. However, despite the bad weather, February found Grand Cru Classes keeping busy with media appearances and teaching opportunities.

In concert with Valentine’s Day, Tracy “appeared” on Big Blend magazine’s Champagne Sundays radio show in early February to talk about Sex, Wine & Chocolate. If you missed this broadcast, you can hear the interview online. She will be penning a new column for Big Blend magazine – Words of Winedom – under the title of Grand Cru Guru and will be periodically featured on their radio shows. Her next “appearance” will be April 27 at 3:30 PM EST on Eat, Drink & Be Merry on the topic of wines to accompany burgers & BBQ.

Also, while not wine related, both Tracy and Jared taped a segment for the Tyra Banks Show, which should air later this month.

Of course, live appearances included our Long Island wines class at City Winery, held on February 26. We are grateful to: Comtesse de Therese, Macari Vineyards, Martha Clara Vineyards, Peconic Bay Winery, Waters Crest and Wölffer Estate for their generosity and support in making this event a success!

Looking ahead, Sex, Wine & Chocolate returns to New York on March 19. Women only are invited to please join us at 7:00 PM for an evening of sensuality and decadence. Please see our website to sign up or see more details.

In addition, Tracy’s Great Grapes! series at New York University’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies begins March 24 at 6:30. As a reminder, registration is through NYU only.

And, for your drinking pleasure at home, this month we turn our attention to the wine regions scattered along the Loire River, which should delight your palate as well as your pocketbook.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick

COO: Cork Opening Officer

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

The Loire River is the longest navigable river in France, covering a distance of 629 miles and stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the center of France before heading south. Here, in the land of castles and Kings, French royalty would spend their summers in the countryside away from the hustle and bustle of Parisian city life, a precursor to the Hamptons summer season. From West to East, there are four wine areas within the greater Loire Valley region: Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine and Central Vineyards. With the vast distance covered, a diversity of climates, grapes and wines exist, making the river among the only threads that tie this large wine region together. However, despite their differences, most of these wines are quite food friendly and offer great value.

At the western coast, along the Atlantic Ocean, visitors find themselves in Nantes, where the Melon de Bourgogne grape is produced into Muscadet, a wine with dry, crisp acidity and citrus and mineral notes. The best wines hail from Sevre-et-Maine and are labeled as such. In addition, wines labeled “sur lie” are those which have sat on the lees (spent yeast cells) for at least six months, which imparts a yeastiness, and are generally richer and fuller-bodied. Muscadets pair beautifully with the shellfish which abound in the port, especially oysters and mussels.

Moving inland and east, the climate changes as do the grape varieties. In Anjou-Saumur, we find Chenin Blanc, which has versatility and then some, with the ability to produce outstanding wines in nearly all styles – dry, sweet, still, sparkling, youthful and aged. Dry whites include Savennieres (which is particularly age worthy) while Coteaux du Layon, Quarts de Chaume and Bonnezeaux are the product of grapes, which have been affected by noble rot, creating unctuous dessert wines. Sparkling wines from this area are made in both fully sparkling and petillant (1/2 pressure) styles. A profusion of rosés abound ranging from dry (Rosé de Loire) and slightly sweet (Cabernet d’Anjou and Cabernet de Saumur) to sweet (Rosé d’Anjou). In addition, some Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Gamay are grown here to produce dry, fruity light-bodied reds found under the appellations of AC Anjou, AC Saumur and AC Saumur-Champigny.

Further inland, Touraine sports a continental climate, with more extreme temperature variations from winter to summer. This is the largest area within the Loire, with a wide variety of wines produced. White wines range from the dry Sauvignon de Touraine and AC Touraine, both made from Sauvignon Blanc, to AC Vouvray, produced from 100% Chenin Blanc. As with the Chenin Blanc in Anjou-Saumur, Vouvrays may be dry, medium-sweet or sweet, and may be still or sparkling. The wine style may be designated on the label, i.e. sec (dry) or moelleux(sweet). High quality red wines, made from Cabernet Franc, tend to exhibit herbaceous and raspberry notes in AC Chinon, with similar, but fuller-bodied wines coming from AC Bourgeuil and AC St-Nicholas-de-Bourgeuil. Red wines labeled as AC Touraine are a blend of Gamay and Cabernet Franc.

At the furthest point east, the Central Vineyards serve as the heartland of Sauvignon Blanc, producing wines, which are more mineral and less fruit-forward than their New Zealand brethren, primarily due to the complex soils found here. Key appellations include: AC Sancerre, AC Pouilly Fume, AC Menetou-Salon, AC Quincy and AC Reuilly. With its reputation for high quality wines, Sancerre can become a little pricey, but these latter appellations are less well-known and are thus, generally less expensive. Produced in smaller quantities, red Sancerre is made from Pinot Noir, which makes sense given the region’s close proximity to Burgundy.

Tasting Notes

Bouvet Rosé Excellence Brut NV, Loire Valley, France, $13.00
This sparkling wine has a beautiful pale salmon color. Medium aromas of cotton candy, yeasty/leesy notes, floral/blossom and under-ripe strawberries. Dry with medium acidity and medium mousse, it has flavors of ripe strawberry, yeast and watermelon Jolly Rancher, along with its long length. 

Domaine Les Hautes Noëlles, Les Grange Muscadet sur lie, 2005, Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu, France, $10.00
A youthful wine with leesy aromas and notes of apple, citrus, it has medium+ acidity and medium body. The palate includes flavors of lime, yeast and minerality. 

Vincent Raimbault, Vouvray Sec 2004, Vouvray, France, $15.00
On the nose, the youthful aromas of apples, almond and lanolin linger, giving way to flavors of almond, apple and honey and crisp acidity on the palate.

Vincent Gaudry, Sancerre, Melodie de Vielles Vignes 2006 Sancerre, France $22.00
Produced from 50-year old vines, this wine has pronounced aromas of minerality, citrus and grapefruit. The medium+ acidity is joined by flavors of citrus and apple which persist on the palate, followed by a hint of stone in the finish.

Joguet Chinon Cuvee Terroir 2005 Touraine, France $18.00
The nose shows limited fruit notes of berries, oak and vanilla. In the mouth, it is dry, with ripe berry fruit, medium acidity, medium+ tannins, and herbal and woody notes in the finish.

Chateau de Fesle Bonnezeaux 2003, Anjou-Saumur, France, $63.00
This dessert wine provides developing aromas of apricot, orange peel, honey, floral and spice. It is medium sweet on the palate with medium+ acidity and pronounced flavors of apricot, honey, spice coupled by a nutty note underneath its long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: I Left My Heart in San Francisco (February 2009)

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Baby it’s cold outside! It’s the perfect time to stay indoors and open some wonderful wines, but eventually you may get stir crazy, so we have plenty of places for you to come hang out with us.

On February 26, Grand Cru Classes will present Long Island wines: From Potato Farms to Parker Points at the newly opened City Winery in Manhattan. We are very excited to partner with Michael Dorf on his project and look forward to a great event. Please register at City Winery online.

Two days later, Grand Cru Classes will import its Sex, Wine & Chocolate event to Washington, D.C. We’ll be at the beautifully-appointed Co Co Sala Chocolate Lounge, along with sexuality educator, Judith Steinhart, sipping wine, savoring chocolate and soaking up knowledge. We invite women-only to our noon session on Saturday, February 28, with a special session for couples-only presented at 3:00 PM. If you have friends, family or colleagues in the D.C. area, be sure and let them know we are on our way. And, save the date for the New York return on March 19, 2009. Details for this event are posted on our website.

Looking ahead, Tracy will reprise her Great Grapes! series through New York University’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies. The non-credit course will be offered on four consecutive Tuesdays, beginning March 24 at 6:30 and will feature Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir. Registration is through NYU only.

While we are waiting for Spring, our hearts and minds are back in California wine country, namely the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. With the restrictions on transporting liquids on planes, we no longer take wines home with us from our travels. Instead, we leave with heavy hearts as we bid goodbye to these wonderful wine regions, but know we will be back.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick

COO: Cork Opening Officer

I LEFT MY HEART IN SAN FRANCISCO

Napa Fog The popular song, “I Left My Heart in San Francisco,” made famous by Tony Bennett, is certainly apropos in many regards this month. As singer of the song, Tony longed to be back home, foreswearing both Paris and New York for his love that “…waits there in San Francisco.” Such passionate love, whether for a grand city or a lover, is certainly in keeping with the arrival of Valentine’s Day this month.

But beyond such love, Tony’s devotional also unwittingly mentions so many of the important aspects that make the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, which lie north of San Francisco, such great wine growing regions. His, “…city by the bay…” brings cool air, where “[t]he morning fog may chill the air…above the blue and windy sea…” and its “…golden sun will shine…” Truly, it is the climate, shaped so dramatically by the mountains, water and fog, that positively impacts the quality of the grapes.

Situated beneath the mountains, the Napa Valley is bounded on both sides with the Mayacamas range to the West and the Vaca range to the East. Moreover, the Napa Valley sits to the west of the hot and dry climate of the San Joaquin Valley (aka Central Valley), where much of California’s bulk wine is produced. In the early morning, the high heat from the Central Valley draws the cool air and moisture from the Pacific Ocean into the San Francisco Bay and then up the Napa Valley, cooling the area as it rolls in. This marine influence has differing results as one works their way up the 30-mile long valley, finding a difference of as much as 1oF/mile, with the southern end experiencing lower temperatures and increased rainfall when compared to the northern end, up near Calistoga. By noon, the fog has burned off and the valley is warm, with plenty of sunshine to fully ripen the grapes each year.

The southern end, known as the appellation of Carneros, spans both Napa and Sonoma and maintains the coolest climate of the region. Here, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay truly shine. Further up in Napa, we find Cabernet Sauvignon and, again Chardonnay, but generally produced in a different style. Whereas the Carneros Chardonnays are elegant and restrained, the wines from upper Napa are fuller-bodied and richer in character due to the warmer climate. Other varietals also are grown in Napa including Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. High above the valley floor, the mountain appellations lie above the fog, with grapes receiving more sunlight and a warmer overnight temperature. As a result, these are wines with a darkness and intensity to them balanced with good acidity and tannins that are well polished. The most produced wine in these areas tends to be Cabernet Sauvignon and similarly, Bordeaux-style blends, in which Cabernet Sauvignon plays a significant role.

The larger, Sonoma Valley is a region of polyculture, not just viticulture, growing a wide range of produce and playing host to numerous farms. The areas closer to the coastline are tempered by the marine air, while areas further inland maintain higher temperatures. Consequently, some sub-regions are particularly well-suited for given grape varieties. More specifically, the Alexander Valley is vaunted for its Cabernet Sauvignons, while Rockpile is prized for Zinfandel. The Russian River Valley is another area known for cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, while the warmer and drier Dry Creek Valley is home to Rhone varietals (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre) and Zinfandel.

Tasting Notes

Dutton-Goldfield, Shop Block Pinot Blanc 2007, Green Valley, CA, $25.00
Celebrating its 10th anniversary in 2008, Dutton-Goldfield is the partnership of vineyard owner/manager, Steve Dutton, and winemaker, Dan Goldfield, in producing small lot, cool climate wines in the Russian River Valley. As a sub-AVA, the Green Valley is hailed as, “the coolest, foggiest region of the Russian River Valley.” Their Pinot Blanc has citrus, floral and stone aromas, with a dry, medium-bodied palate. Bright fruit flavors of citrus and apple coexist with muted notes of minerality.

Frank Family Vineyards, Chardonnay 2006, Napa Valley, CA, $32.50
This is a beautifully-made Chardonnay with aromas of apple and floral notes. Medium-bodied on the palate, it has flavors of apple and white flower and only a limited perception of integrated oak.

Robert Mondavi Winery, Fume Blanc Reserve 2006, To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville, CA, $45.00
From the famed To Kalon vineyard, this 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Semillon blend has youthful aromas of grapefruit, hay and wet stone, opening up to peach. On the palate, it is dry with medium+ acidity, medium body, white grapefruit, stone and peach notes, finishing with a touch of yeast in the long length. 

Coturri, Jewell Vineyard, Pinot Noir 2005, Sonoma Mountain, CA, $30.00
While the wines aren’t labeled as such, Coturri is a biodynamic producer, believing that organic production isn’t the stuff of marketing, but rather, it’s the only way to make wine. This elegant Pinot hails from 60-year old vines and has raspberry and herbal aromas. Dry, with lively acidity, medium body and medium tannins, its flavors of raspberry and black cherry, coupled with pleasant herbaceousness, are very concentrated throughout the palate. 

Seghesio, Zinfandel 2005, Rockpile, CA $36.00
Known for its Zinfandels, Seghesio produces a range from different appellations and vineyards. The Rockpile rendition is spicy and juicy, with medium body, medium acidity, ripe tannins and rich flavors of spice, blueberry and blackberry.

CADE Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Howell Mountain, CA, $60.00
Made in small quantities (only 400 cases), this wine comes from 9 year old vines grown at a 2,000 foot elevation, which is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Merlot to soften the wine. Aromas include menthol, along with some blackberry fruit in the background and oak. The dry palate displays medium acidity, high tannins and flavors of blackberry, oak and coffee.

NB: The wines selected for this month’s newsletter carry higher average prices than our usual selections, but we believe that these wines deliver excellent quality, while still providing good value. There are significant numbers of lower-priced California wines, most of which are commercially-made, cheap and cheerful wines with grapes sourced from throughout the state. With the high cost of land values in Napa and Sonoma, it is costlier to make great, artisanal wines, as these represent. Yet, with people choosing to stay in more frequently, as opposed to dining out, these wine costs provide you with the ability to trade up, while still keeping expenses reasonable.

Grand Cru Grapevine: It’s All Greek to Me (January 2009)

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Welcome to 2009! A new year always heralds the start of something big and for Grand Cru Classes, 2009 is no exception. This month we launch our recently revamped website and newsletter. Our website URL remains the same (www.GrandCruClasses.com), but the new site is much improved and finally completes our rebrand to the beautiful logo designed by May Matta-Aliah of Red Dot Solutions. 

As we bid goodbye to 2008, we began our partnership with Judith Steinhart and introduced our Sex, Wine & Chocolate event, which was a huge success for this first effort. We welcomed 20 participants to the inaugural presentation and were delighted to feature Alexander Valley Vineyards’ aptly named Temptation Zin (Zinfandel); Banfi Vintners’ beautifully-hued sparkler, Rosa Regale; and Godiva Chocolatier’s decadent chocolates and truffles (with special thank yous to Andrew Feigelman, Sharon McCarthy and Traci Schiffer, respectively, for their gracious support of this event). No specific plans have as yet been made, but we do plan to reprise this event in the future and have even received an inquiry to bring the event to Washington, D.C. We also thank the attendees for their candid and thoughtful feedback, which will certainly be useful as we improve future presentations of this fun and festive event. There’s a synopsis of the event on Tracy’s blog. 

Other year-end festivities included the comedy debut of our own Tracy Ellen Kamens, who killed (in comedy, that’s a good thing) at her graduation show and was invited to participate in a New Talent Showcase at Comix on Tuesday, February 3 at 7:00 PM. (Call 212-524-2500 and mention Tracy’s name or book online.) 

Tracy’s other accomplishments include her induction into the Wine Media Guild and receipt of the Greek Wine Ambassador title and certification from Wines of Greece. In this vein, we turn this month’s attention to just that…wines from Greece. 

Drink wisely and well, 

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer 

IT’S ALL GREEK TO ME
Last May, I had the wonderful opportunity to attend a seminar hosted by Wines from Greece. The illustrious panel included Steven Olsen (aka Wine Geek), Doug Frost, MW, MS (author and consultant); Roger Daghorn (sommelier from Chanterelle restaurant); Tara Thomas (journalist and author); Michael Weiss (Director of Wine Studies at the Culinary Institute of America) and Sophia Perpera (oenologist and founder, All About Greek Wine). 

While Greek wines haven’t made big headlines in recent years, Greece has a long vinous history dating back 4,000 years and is actually considered to be the birthplace of food and wine as a culture. Among its more well-known wine exports is Retsina, which owes its unique flavor to its infusion with pine resin. While not most people’s preference, traditionally, this process actually served a purpose, acting as a preservative and preventing oxidation long before the advent of refrigeration and other modern technology. Other additives, such as opiates, were also common in ancient Greece, which gave rise to those bacchanalian parties. As further evidence of its forward thinking, Greece also pioneered the concept of using specific vessels for specific wines long before Riedel crafted his first crystal stemware. Moreover, antique amphorae also sported the first wine labels, with seals indicating the vintner, vintage, etc 

But, it wasn’t until more modern history that Greece has once again become a world class producer of wine. Previously, wines were high in alcohol, low in acidity and prone to oxidation due in part to poor winemaking, high yields and over-oaking. Conversely, today, Greek wines are clean and fresh, with balanced structure and acidity and are quite food friendly. Combining Old World tradition with New World technology, many producers are using indigenous grapes grown at low yields and applying new technologies such as refrigeration to produce high quality wines. 

Geographically, Greece resembles an outstretched hand, reaching into the water. Located within the Mediterranean Sea, Greece is a country primarily made up of volcanic islands and qualifying as the third most mountainous country in Europe. Not surprisingly, this is a country whose vineyards are made up of small plots of land with ancient soils, in isolated areas and at high elevations (among the highest in the world, second only to Argentina). Given its maritime location, it has a Mediterranean climate, with a heavy influence from the sea. In fact, low rainfall plagues most of Greece, with moisture coming from fog instead. 

Home to over 300 indigenous grapes that have been catalogued, Greece provides great diversity and originality in its wines. Yes, you can find the usual suspects – Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – but more importantly, and more significantly, are grapes such as Roditis, Assyrtiko, Agiorghitiko and Xinomavro. 

Amidst the Aegean Islands, Santorini seems like an unlikely place for wine production. Here, soils are a mix of volcanic and minced rock while the climate is extremely dry and windy, so much so that vines must be trained low to the ground in a circular pattern, resembling a woven basket. Yet despite this inhospitable climate, Assyrtiko thrives, producing wines with vibrant acidity and minerality that develop a beautiful richness over time. Among other whites, Athiri grapes are grown in Rhodes and Santorini, providing wines with low acidity, good weight and high aromatics. Roditis is the grape best known for the wines from Patras, which are elegant, light white wines, displaying notes of citrus flavors. 

Red grape star Agiorgitiko provides dark color and soft tannins and results in wines with a roundness and balance similar to Pinot Noir. Found in Nemea (the largest red wine appellation in Greece), on the Peleponnese, these wines can be aged and have nice acidity and good aromatics. Another well-respected red variety is Xinomavro, which loosely translates as sour black. This grape is grown in Naoussa within the region of Macedonia, and is responsible in part for the blend in Rapsani on Mount Olympus. 

Greece is also known for its dessert wines. Mavrodaphne grapes are generally used to produce sweet, fortified wines that are similar in style to ruby Ports. Other sweet Greek wines include Muscats of Samos as well as those from Rion and Patras, with notes of apricot, honey, orange peel and spice. 

The wine renaissance taking place in modern Greece is long overdue, but well worth the wait. And, just in time, too, as Greek food has become an important trend in Metropolitan restaurants. In fact, according to Olsen, New York Magazine declared that “octopus is the new calamari.” But, regardless of what you order, Greek wines are food friendly wines that can pair easily with a wealth of cuisines. And, with your newly acquired knowledge, reviewing a list of Greek wines should no longer have you saying, “It’s all Greek to me.” 

Tasting Notes

 

 

Emery, Athiri, VDQS Rhodes, 2007, Rhodes, Greece, $14.00
A whitewine with intense aromatics of citrus, peach and slight mineral notes, the palate is dry with medium acidity and flavors of citrus, an herbal undercurrent and some floral notes.  

Tselepos, Mantinia VDQS, 2007, Mantinia/Peloponnese, Greece, $17.00
From the Moschofilero grape, floral, spice, peach and pear notes are immediately evident in this highly aromatic wine. On the palate, it has high acidity and long length, which harmonize with the wine’s complex flavors of strawberry, nectarine, jasmine and ginger, making it extremely versatile for food matching.  

Sigalas, Santorini VDQS, 2007, Santorini/Aegean Islands, Greece, $19.00
Produced from Assyrtiko grapes, this wine has herbal and citrus aromas on the nose. It is dry, with medium acidity, and good concentrated fruit flavors of peach and herbs, culminating in a long length. 

Gaia Estate, Nemea VDQS, 2005, Nemea/Peloponnese, Greece, $35.00
Aromas of black fruit, cherry, spice and wood greet the nose. This dry and well structured red wine, made from Agiorghitiko grapes, has medium acidity with a medium+ body and ripe tannins. Fruit-forward, explosive flavors of wood, blackberry, spice and oak persist on the palate.  

Boutari, Grande Reserve, Naoussa VDQS, 2001, Naoussa/Macedonia, Greece, $22.00
Produced from the Xinomavro grape, this is a very aromatic red wine, with notes of black cherry, herbal, dried fruits and tar that echo on the palate. Dry and full bodied, it has grippy, but ripe tannins with bright acidity and long length. Rich and complex with black olives, dried tomatoes and concentrated fruit, the wine is still young and could use some additional age. It would pair well with gamey meat and hard cheeses.