Category Archives: Wine World

Grand Cru Grapevine: Cellar Stockers IV (December 2009)

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‘Tis the season to be jolly and what better way to celebrate the season than with the gift of wine. Accordingly, our annual gift-giving guide returns this month to help you find the perfect gift for everyone on your list.

Beyond the bottle, a gift certificate from Grand Cru Classes is the gift that always fits. Purchase seats to a public class, provide them with wine consulting services or offer them the gift of a private wine event. Certificates are elegantly packaged with a set of wine charms and can be sent directly to you or the recipient (your choice).

For a very unique opportunity, why not treat someone in your life to a special winemaking series with Grand Cru Classes and Jim Waters, owner and winemaker at Waters Crest Winery? Details will be sent out separately as soon as they are available.

If you find yourself entertaining for the holidays and want to throw a wine-themed party, we still have a few dates available. Call or e-mail us for a quote.

Hosting on a smaller scale? Let us make your life easier with our wine shopping services. Simply provide us with your wine budget, number of guests expected and any themes or preferences and we’ll create the perfect wine list for your event, arrange for delivery and design customized tasting sheets and information on each wine, all for a flat fee of $175.00.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

CELLAR STOCKERS IV

The holidays bring a flurry of parties and visits with friends and family. Don’t arrive empty-handed. Instead, reach for a festive sparkler that sets the tone and is sure to please: Juve y Camps, Reserva de la Familia 2004, Catalonia, Spain, $13.00. 

Hosting at home? Appeal to their green side with an organic wine (from Washington State’s first Certified Organic vineyard) that not only tastes great, but is also great for the environment with Badger Mountain Vineyards Pure White 2007, Columbia Valley, WA ($22.00 -3L box).

Show your parents you appreciate them with a wine from the year you were born. Check out a vintage chart to see what wines were ageworthy and are still drinking well; then, turn to a store that carries older vintages to find that special bottle. If this proves to be too much of a challenge, consider an elegant Italian wine: Scavino, Barolo Carobric 2004, Piedmont, Italy, $75.00.

You might be less enamored with your in-laws (or maybe not), but don’t let it show, by sending them world-class Chablis from a stellar vintage: Joseph Drouhin Domaine de Vaudon, Vaudesir Grand Cru 2008, Chablis, France, $72.00.

If you’ve made a new acquaintance, take this time to let them know you care with a fresh, fruit-forward white wine that isn’t among the usual suspects: Treana, Proprietary White 2007, Paso Robles, CA, $17.00.

Thank your best friend for being there for you all year long. Toast your friendship with a voluptuous Pinot Noir: Brooks, “Janus” Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley, OR, $35.00.

Finally, let your love for one another shine through with the sparkle of Champagne in a romantic hue by choosing a classic rosé option: Ayala Rosé “Majeur” NV, Champagne, France $60.00.

See the Tasting Notes section for detailed notes on the above wines.

Tasting Notes

Juve y Camps, Reserva de la Familia 2004, Catalonia, Spain, $13.00
This family-owned winery is located in the heartland of the Penedes region – San Sadurni d’Anoia. Produced from a traditional blend of Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo, the intense nose presents with notes of yeast, citrus and mineral, with rich flavors of citrus and yeast on the round and creamy palate. 

Badger Mountain Vineyards Pure White 2007, Columbia Valley, WA, $22.00 -3L box
A blend of Semillon, Muller-Thurgau and Sauvignon Blanc, this wine has a wonderfully floral nose, but is dry on the palate with citrus and tropical fruit notes. With no sulfites or other preservatives added, the winemaking is organic as well. Packaged in environmentally friendly cardboard, this box contains the equivalent of 4 bottles of wine with a vastly reduced carbon footprint due to its lower weight, yet, once opened, will remain fresh for weeks.

Scavino, Barolo Carobric 2004, Piedmont, Italy, $75.00
A beautiful Barolo from highly respected winemaker Enrico Scavino, this wine has a very floral nose. The palate consists of black fruits – mostly dark berries – with continued floral notes, dried herbs and firm tannins, culminating in long length. 

Joseph Drouhin Domaine de Vaudon, Vaudesir Grand Cru 2008, Chablis, France, $72.00
This wine has pronounced minerality, damp earth, bruised apple and a slight woody note on the nose, all of which re-appeared on the rich palate and remained throughout the exceedingly long finish. 

Treana, Proprietary White 2007, Paso Robles, CA, $17.00
A 50-50 blend of Marsanne and Viognier (both Rhone Valley varietals), this wine is dry with very ripe, tropical fruit aromas. On the palate, pineapple and an undercurrent of stone persist throughout the medium length. 

Brooks, “Janus” Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley, OR, $35.00
A relatively complex wine for the price with vibrant acidity and very lush fruit, this palate shows raspberry, cherry, violet and slight herbal notes. 

Ayala Rosé “Majeur” NV, Champagne, France $60.00.
Although Champagne house Ayala was established in 1860, its wines only recently returned to the U.S. With an elegant bouquet of fresh red fruits, the wine is dry with crisp acidity and raspberry and toast and is suitable as an aperitif, but can just as easily carry you through the meal and could even accompany light, fruit-based desserts.

Asti Spumante DOCG

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With the holiday season upon us, it is a great opportunity to celebrate with sparkling wine. Aside from Champagne, there are numerous options available to consumers.

Asti Spumante, a sweet sparkler from the Piedmont region in Italy, is a great wine to serve with dessert, salty cuisine or as an aperitif. Like most other sparkling wines, Asti is the product of a second fermentation, during which the CO2 is retained in the wine. However, since it is produced from the Moscato Bianco grape, a very aromatic variety, the wine is not kept in contact with the dead yeast cells (as is the case in Champagne and similarly-styled sparklers) in order to preserve the fresh fruit and floral aromas and flavors. At an average 7% abv, it is light and delicate, with a gentle froth on the palate.

A sister wine, Moscato d’Asti, is made with the same grapes, but has a higher sugar content, lower alcohol level and fewer atmospheres of pressure. This latter difference accounts for the use of a regular wine bottle.

As a DOCG wine (it was promoted to this status in 1993), as opposed to a DOC wine, Asti Spumante is carefully regulated by the consortium. The extra “G” stands for Garantita – guaranteed – with quality control monitored at all stages including chemical analyses of the must to verify that the proper grapes are being used, tasting evaluations to ensure that the wines meet quality standards and further checks once the wine has made its way into the market.

FREE TASTINGS
Now through December 5, consumers have the opportunity to receive a complimentary taste of Asti Spumante at participating restaurants throughout New York City. Visit the Alta Cucina Society’s website for the full listing.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Where the Bargains Are…Revisited (November 2009)

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Wow, Fall seems to be literally flying by as Grand Cru Classes completes a whirlwind of projects in October and November. Among our many endeavors, we are thrilled to be providing staff training to the esteemed Four Seasons Restaurant in Manhattan and for Park Place Wines in tony East Hampton.

In between preparing custom training materials and introducing dozens of people to the world of wine, Tracy has had her nose in the books as she studied for Year 1 (of 3) of the American Wine Society’s Wine Judging Certification program. An educational session and Year 1 exam were presented at the annual conference held in Destin, Florida earlier this month. She also “appeared” on Heritage Radio Network’s At the Root of It with Erin Fitzpatrick for the October 27 episode.

November marks the end of our public class sessions in Mattituck for 2009, so if you wish to take a class with us this season, please check our schedule and sign up. Public classes will resume in May. However, private events may be booked with us all year.

In fact, as the allure of the holiday season comes upon us, why not consider a special wine tasting or wine and cheese event in place of your usual holiday party? With years of event planning experience, we can provide you with an elegant affair that your guests will fondly remember.

Beyond entertaining, Grand Cru Classes offers beautifully-packaged gift certificates. Give the gift of a public wine class, a private wine event or consultation services for wine shopping or developing a wine cellar. To make your gift even more special, all gift certificates purchased between now and December 31 will be sent with a set of handmade wine charms.

Finally, if you need to stock up on break-resistant, crystal stemware, now is the time. These glasses also make great gifts. Our next order with Schott-Zweisel will be placed by November 30th. Please contact us directly to receive a catalog of style choices and pricing.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

WHERE THE BUYS ARE…REVISITED

A recent study, commissioned by Italian wine producer Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, revealed interesting differences between Italian and U.S. wine consumers. It seems that Italian wine drinkers are more focused on quality and thus, continue to buy wine at the same quality levels as previously during this economic downturn. However, they are buying fewer bottles. Conversely, according to a Nielsen Group study, during this recession, Americans are drinking in the same quantities, but have adjusted the price point of their purchases. Accordingly, if one used to buy wine in the $15-$20 range, that same consumer is likely now buying wines in the $10-$15 price bracket. With this in mind, we turn our attention to tips and tricks for finding where the bargains are.

Lesser-known Neighbors
In wine, as in real estate, it’s all about location, location, location. With the popularity of key grape varieties, wine regions or both, the price of these wines escalates. Meanwhile, wines that hail from “the wrong side of the tracks” can offer consumers great value. More specifically, if you enjoy the crisp acidity, citrus aromas and flavors and minerality of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé from France’s Loire Valley, look to the villages of Quincy, Reuilly and Menetou-Salon for similarly styled wines at lower price points. The vaunted Sauternes of Bordeaux is prized for its botrytis-affected dessert wines, but the favorable conditions that exist to create these wines are not confined to this single area. Wines from satellite communes Loupiac, Cadillac, Cerons and Ste. Croix du Mont may not have the same longevity, but will provide better bang for your buck for early consumption.

Know thy Vintage and/or Producer
Scaling back on your Burgundy purchases? Generic appellations (AC Bourgogne vs. AC Gevry-Chambertin) from well-regarded négociants (such as Latour, Drouhin and Jadot) will provide good quality wines less expensively. Other Burgundian options are to seek out wines from districts other than the famed Côtes de Nuits and Côtes de Beaune (collectively known as the Côte d’Or) – Côte Chalonnaise offers good Pinot Noirs while Macon, especially Pouilly-Fuissé) is regarded for its Chardonnays. Bordeaux is all about vintage, so choose lesser known producers in great years (2000, 2003, 2005) or search out better producers in “shadow vintages,” those years that got lost in the hoopla of better rated vintages (i.e., 2001 and 2004), for more reasonable options.

Where the Buys Are 2009
Still considered up and coming, Chilean wines are seeing significant improvement in their quality while still being available at the lower end of the market. In particular, Sauvignon Blanc from Leyda and Carmenere from the Maule Valley are terrific choices. Finally, don’t overlook Long Island. While often thought to be expensive wines, a recent blind tasting of Long Island wines pitted against their international peers found that not only did the wines compare favorably on the palate, they usually much less expensive than the competition.

Tasting Notes

Cascina Ca’Rossa, Roero Arneis «Merica» 2008, Piedmont, Italy, $14.95
This wine is made from the Arneis grape, which is indigenous to the Piedmont region, located in northwestern Italy. On the nose, there are aromas of floral, almond and honey. On the palate, flavors of lime, almond, straw and honey linger throughout the long length. 

Pierre Sparr, Selection Series Riesling 2008, Alsace, France, $14.00
As with most Alsatian wines, this one is varietally correct, truly showing off Riesling’s peach and citrus aromas and flavors. The palate is dry with high acidity and medium length. 

Channing Daughters, Scuttlehole Chardonnay 2008, The Hamptons, $16.00
This unoaked Chardonnay held its own when blind tasted amidst wines from Chablis and Pouilly-Fuissé. Youthful aromas of floral, mineral and lime persist on the palate and are joined by lemon and stone. Crisp acidity and concentrated fruit are balanced by its full body.

Château Teyssier, St. Emilion Grand Cru 2006, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
Aromas of black fruit and molasses greet the nose. The palate is dry with medium acidty and medium tannins, along with flavors of blackberry, coffee, and spice. 

Casas Patronales, Carmenere Reserva 2008, Maule Valley, Chile, $10.00
This producer’s Reserva wines spend 6 months aged in oak, but the wines are not overly oaky. The Carmenere is dry with medium body and medium acidity. Its palate is spicy with red fruits/raspberry and slight earth flavors culminating in medium+ length.

Industria Argentina – authentic Argentine cuisine in the heart of NYC

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If  you are looking for authentic Argentinean food, look no further than Industria Argentina, located  in TriBeCa. Opened in 2005, the restaurant boasts beautiful design and decor, all of which was imported from Argentina, including the artwork that adorns the walls and the planks on the hardwood floors. Of course, Chef Natalia Machado was also imported. She hails from Buenos Aires, but having spent her summers in Ushuaia, she counted the penguins along the beach among her pets/playmates as a child. Industria Argentina recently hosted a series of special dinners paired with wines from Argentine producer, Finca Flichman. With both culinary school and significant professional cooking experience, Natalia brings her heritage to the kitchen, serving up regional specialties from north to south, which was reflected in the four-course menu. Drawing from Argentina’s melding of Spain, Italy and England, the cuisine incorporated a myriad of traditions, but was all expertly executed. Situated at the southern tip of the South American continent, the waters off the coast of Ushuaia are quite cold, similar to those off the coast of Alaska, and provide fertile fishing ground. Fished from these waters, the first course consisted of pan-seared sea scallops, served over smoked almond pesto and tomato compote. The pesto was a lovely, fresh accompaniment to the earthy tomatoes and seared scallops. Picking up on the smokey and earthy note, an oaked, full-bodied Chardonnay matched nicely.
Finca Flichman Chardonnay Roble 2008, Mendoza, Argentina
Notes of apple, spice and slight oak, full-bodied, medium acidity. A hearty stew of slow braised lamb and pumpkins, joined by Andean corn and peach chutney, followed the scallops. Served in a jack-be-little pumpkin, the dish was visually stunning as well as delicious. It paired beautifully with a Reserve Malbec, which was well-balanced and elegant on the palate.
Finca Flichman Malbec Reserva 2007, Mendoza, Argentina
Aromas of blackberry, blueberry, spice and oak persist on the palate with long length. Grilled rib eye steak, with mixed potatoes and chimichurri sauce (homemade and available at the restaurant for $6.00/jar) came next. The steak was well prepared, but the potatoes seemed to steal all of the praise, with many of the diners clearing their plates. An Argentine blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with firm tannins and concentrated fruit complimented the steak.
Finca Flichman Paisaje de Tupungato 2006, Mendoza, Argentina
Smoke, black fruits and herbal notes dominate the nose and palate with medium+ tannins. The dessert course featured a traditional dish of candied pumpkin, Zapallos en Almibar. The pumpkins are treated with lime (calcium carbonate, not the citrus fruit), which draws out the moisture and heightens the flavors. The dried pumpkin is then caramelized in simple syrup. A dry, sparkling wine helped to cleanse the palate between bites of the extremely sweet dessert.
Finca Flichman Extra Brut NV, Mendoza, Argentina
Citrus and mineral notes with high acidity. For more info: 
Industria Argentina
329 Greenwich St
New York, NY 10013-3318
(212) 965-8560
Appetizers average $12.00; Entrees range from 18.00-28.00 for single dishes, $42.00-52.00 for two.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Taming of the Brew (October 2009)

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Several years ago, we visited my parents at their home in Ashland, Oregon and had the opportunity to attend their town’s renowned Shakespeare Festival where we saw Taming of the Shrew. While Petruchio worked hard to “tame” Katherina, vintners in Cahors, France have put their energies toward taming the tannins in their wines.

Here at home, Tracy hopes that taming of her students will not be necessary as she begins teaching WSET Intermediate Certificate at the International Wine Center later this month. She completed an intensive teacher training program with the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET) in August and is now ready to hit the ground running.

Jared has been equally busy, completing Murray’s Cheese Boot Camp in late September, which entailed 15 hours of intensive cheese study over three days. All told, he consumed about three pounds of cheese while tasting through over 65 samples.

Both our wine and cheese knowledge are being well-utilized by clients this month as we provide training in French wines for the crew of a private yacht and present a special “Welcome to Long Island” wine and cheese party for a wedding on Shelter Island.

We are also delighted to announce that we were featured in Edible East End’s High Summer issue: To Drink, Perchance to Teach.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

TAMING OF THE BREW

“‘They have tamed the tannins.'” Such was the pronouncement from Elin McCoy, noted wine writer and author, at a tasting event launching the Cahors campaign in the U.S. Traditionally known for extremely tight and tannic wines, Cahors, situated in Southwest France, was called “the black wine” in the 13th century. However, as McCoy explained, today’s wines are much more approachable with less tannic grip than the wines of old. 

The tiny village of Cahors is home to only 5,000 inhabitants, but boasts two UNESCO heritage sites – Valentré Bridge and Cathédrale Saint-Étienne. There are 430 growers producing AOC Cahors, all of which is red and produced with a minimum of 70% Malbec, which hails from this region despite Argentina’s market dominance with this grape. The terrain is divided among the plateau, slope and valley, with grapes from the various parcels blended together to create deeper complexity.

Present day wines can be grouped into one of three wine styles: intense and complex (100% Malbec); feisty and powerful (85-100% Malbec) and tender and fruity (70-85% Malbec). Not surprisingly, the more expensive wines tend to fall into the first category. However these wines still represent good value with the majority of them ranging from $10.00 to $20.00. At this price point, the wines offer ataste of their origin and are really quite interesting, giving the consumer great wines for the price. 

Cahors typically display aromas and flavors of black fruits, such as blackberry and blueberry, and hints of mushrooms (with age). They also show some minerality and finish with fresh acidity and firm, but ripe, tannins. Compared to Argentine Malbecs, Cahors wines are less fruit-driven and retain more elegance with lighter, less jammy aromas and flavors. These wines are food friendly and pair well with local cuisines – notably truffles, foie gras and cassoulet, but could just as easily complement barbecue fare, grilled meats and game. 

Located not too far from Bordeaux, the regions share the same climate and annual weather patterns. Consequently, the two mirror each other in terms of vintage quality and variation. In great vintages such as 2005 and 2008, the wines are capable of ageing well with as much as 10-15 years of cellaring. Less stellar years provide an opportunity to drink the wines young.

As part of the campaign to promote these wines, a special Cahors glass (the only region with its own official stemware) and special bottle were commissioned. The Cahors glass has a ring in the stem, which permits one to place their fingers in it when holding the glass.

Tasting Notes

TENDER & FRUITY
Château Croze de Pys, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $10.00
Aromas of plum and blackberry greet the nose of this 100% Malbec wine. With an attractive freshness and good fruit, the palate offers vibrant acidity and firm tannins along with notes of blackberry and slight earth. 

Château Les Croisille, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $12.00
Blended with approximately 15% Merlot, this deep ruby wine has black fruit aromas. Blackberry and herbal, spice, savory and olive, well-balanced with long length. 

FEISTY & POWERFUL
Château La Caminade, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $21.00
A pronounced nose of smoke, bramble fruit and a hint of savory leaps from the glass. Similarly, the wine is powerful on the palate, with deep and rich flavors of blackcherry, herbal, wood/oak and earth, coupled with firm, but ripe tannins, 

INTENSE & COMPLEX
Château de Haute-Serre, Cahors 2004, Cahors, France, $18.00
Made from 100% Malbec, black fruits, spice and pepper notes fill the nose. However, on the palate, the wine is brighter, showing raspberry, earth and gamey flavors. 

Domaine Cosse Masionneuve, « Les Laquets » Cahors 2004, Cahors, France, $45.00
Proprietors Mathieu Cosse and Catherine Maisonneuve started their small domaine in 1999 and make their wines as naturally as possible, practicing biodynamic principles. Nearly opaque, the wine shows mineral/flint notes along with floral and blueberry aromas. On the palate, lush fruit flavors of blackcherry and blackberry are joined by vanilla and hints of stone and herbal.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Getting down and dirty (September 2009)

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As summer comes to an end, the North Fork is gearing up for harvest and will soon be ready to get down and dirty in the vineyard. If you are heading out to the North Fork this Fall season, you are sure to get caught up in the season’s excitement.

Grand Cru Classes is buzzing with its own excitement as we debut our new Where the (Wine) Bargains Are class on September 13 at 2:00 PM, joining our ever-popular From Vine to Wine class and others on the schedule. In addition, we will be presenting a five-week wine appreciation series for the Town of Riverhead’s Department of Recreation. If you can’t make it out East, you can catch Tracy at NYU where she will teach two classes: Exploring Italian Wines from North to South (5-weeks beginning October 6) and Seven Wines That Will Devastate Your Friends (one session – November 17). See NYU’s website to register.

Aside from teaching classes, we are thrilled to be bottling our first wine, produced from neighbor Macari Vineyards’ grapes from the vaunted 2007 harvest. This wine is not available for sale, but has been a wonderful opportunity for Jared and two friends to get hands-on experience in winemaking.

On a final note, we are pleased to announce the following special offer. The French Wine Society will host its 2nd annual conference this October 4-7 in Washington D.C. In addition to in-depth seminars, the conference will also include the launch of the Cheeses of France Academy (and its teaching materials), the French Wine Scholar certification exam, along with Master-Level certificate exams for both the Rhône Valley and Provence. The French Wine Society is extending a 10% discount to Grand Cru Grapevine subscribers. Please use discount code: RIUT6B when registering for the conference. For more details on the conference, please see the French Wine Society’s website.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

GETTING DOWN AND DIRTY

With harvest just around the corner, the vineyards will be filled with workers. While certainly imbued with more romance than harvesting other fruit, picking grapes is hard work, requiring pickers to stoop and bend as they examine each cluster before cutting it from the vine. By the end of the day, the harvest workers will be covered in sweat and dirt. 

And, as Ronnie LaCroute, proprietor of WillaKenzie Estate in Oregon, states in her email signature file, “Dirt Matters.” In fact, soil is one of the major factors that influence winemaking. Some of the influence is simple. For example, dark soils help to retain heat overnight, while white-colored soils can reflect the sunlight onto the grapes, ensuring ripeness in an otherwise marginal climate. More complex is the influence of the soil content on the finished wine whereby the mineral content is often reflected in the flavor profile of the wines, creating wines that truly taste of the terroir (place they were grown and made). Consequently, throughout the world, there are key soils that are highly prized.

Here are just a few examples of how “dirt matters”. In Champagne, the calcareous soils are high in calcium and help the grapes to retain their natural acidity. Elsewhere in France, the assortment of limestone, silex and gravel are felt to account for flint and mineral notes in Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs, especially those from Sancerre. Within Australia, Coonawarra is known for producing Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, the high quality of which is attributed to the terra rossa soils found there. Terra rossa is a red-colored soil, which consists of clay over limestone, providing good drainage. On New Zealand’s North Island in Hawkes Bay, an area known as Gimblett Gravels is among the first appellations in the New World truly based on terroir rather than political boundaries. After the Ngaruroro River flooded in the 1860s, dry beds of gravel were exposed. The vineyard land, mainly planted to Bordeaux varieties, forces the vines to go extremely deep to find water and results in high quality wines.

Regardless of the region and the soils present in the area, the grape variety, climate, annual weather conditions, viticultural practices and vinification techniques also play an important role in winemaking. These factors, coupled with the soil type, will ultimately be responsible for influencing what ends up in the glass.

Tasting Notes

St. Urbans-hof, Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett 2008, Mosel, Germany, $17.00
The term “kabinett” refers to the ripeness level of the grapes at harvest, with kabinett being the starting point of the scale, which is reserved for quality wines only. Aromas include typical Riesling notes of floral and peach. On the palate, the wine is off-dry, with flavors of peach and a mineral undercurrent.

Benjamin Vieux, Château Gaubert, Graves Blanc 2005, Bordeaux, France, $17.00
Graves is the French word for gravel and this area within Bordeaux has a large concentration of gravel within its soils that help with drainage. Produced from a blend of 60% Semillon and 40% Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is starting to show some development with aromas of yeast, apple and honey. Dry, with crisp acidity, it shows flavors of yeast, oak, smokiness and citrus, culminating in long length. 

WillaKenzie Estate, Pierre-Léon Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley (Oregon), US, $38.00
WillaKenzie, a type of soil that originates from the pushed up sea floor is found in the Willamette Valley’s Yamhill-Carlton and Ribbon Ridge areas. With a beautifully perfumed nose accompanied by a note of fresh raspberries, this wine continues to deliver on the palate with raspberry, earth, minerality and an undercurrent of wet leaves. 

Cakebread Merlot 2005, Napa Valley (California), US $54.00
This Merlot is blended with 22% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Syrah with fruit sourced from Rutherford, Oakville and Calistoga. Notes of red and black fruits along with cinnamon/spice greet the nose. Aged for 18 months in French oak barrels (45% of which were new), the vibrant acidity and medium tannins on the palate are well balanced with flavors of cherry, slight earth, and spice.

Vilafonte Series C 2004, Stellenbosch, South Africa, $59.00
A collaboration between South African producer Warwick Estates and famed California winemaker Zelma Long, Vilafonte is named for a soil type. The “Series C” is a blend heavy on Cabernet Sauvignon (Series M is more Merlot based) with aromas of currant, vanilla, black fruits. On the palate, black currant, herbal and coffee notes comingle with firm tannins, finishing with long length.

From Croatia with love – Plavac Mali

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Decanter’s World Wine Awards were announced earlier this week, with Angela Muir MW (regional chair for Central and Eastern European wines) noting that, “Croatia really was the discovery of this year.”
In fact, Croatian wines brought home 27 medals in all: 8 Gold, 5 Silver, 11 Bronze and 3 commended.

Among the winners, the Zlatan Plavac Mali Barrique received a Silver medal for its 2006 vintage. The Plavac Mali grape originated in Croatia as a cross between Zinfandel and another indigenous grape, Dobricic. In general, Plavac Mali produces wines that have high tannins, high alcohol, deep color and can age well. While Croatian wines still aren’t prevalent in the U.S. market, several Plavac Mali wines are available in the U.S.

Dingac Ivo Plavac Mali 2006
100% Plavac Mali
Dingac Region, Dalmatia, Croatia
Astor Wines – $16.00 (2007 vintage)
From the Dingac region, an island off the coast of Croatia, this wine spends 18 months is Slovenian oak and displays red fruit and herbal notes, with long length.

Lirica Plavac Mali 2005
100% Plavac Mali
Dingac Region, Dalmatia, Croatia
Crush Wine Co – $22.00 (2007 vintage)
Produced in stainless steel, this wine has an earthy nose with vibrant acidity and firm, but ripe, tannins and earth and cherry flavors on the palate.

Zlatan Plavac Barrique 2007
100% Plavac Mali
Island of Hvar, Dalmatia, Croatia
Columbus Circle Wines – $44.00 (2005 vintage)
Cultivated on 45-degree slopes along the coast, this wine spends 12 months in oak. Dry with herbal, earth and berries, oak, ripe tannins, long length.

Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru 2005
100% Plavac Mali
Island of Hvar, Dalmatia, Croatia
Mt. Carmel Wines – $48.00 (2004 vintage)
From 50 year-old vines, this wine is aged in new barriques for 18 months. Its nose is earthy, herbal and red fruits. On the palate, it is concentrated with berries, tobacco and herbs. Needs time for the tannins to soften.

For more info: See the importer’s website for maps and more information on the region.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Oregon, but not forgotten (August 2009)

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As mentioned previously, we had the wonderful opportunity to visit Oregon in May of this year, visiting downtown Portland as well as spending time in the Willamette Valley. This wine region is producing spectacular wines and, while we have left the area, the memories of its wines are certainly not forgotten. To that end, we revisit its history and provide you with a brief introduction this month.

Among other travels, Tracy has just returned from Sacramento where she attended the Society of Wine Educators’ annual conference, reconnected with many colleagues and participated in a wide variety of educational seminars. Meanwhile, Jared has completed the last of the infrastructure projects for our educational vineyard, installing several hundred feet of irrigation hose. True to Murphy’s Law, the continued downpour has precluded the need for irrigation this year.

Apropos all of the rain, we have been busy offering our services at a number of bridal showers and, additionally, have created a new theme for bachelorette parties – Aphrodite meets Bacchus & Lady Godiva. If you are planning a wedding celebration, let us help you design the perfect wine-themed event.

On a final note, we will be placing a new order for Schott-Zwiesel titanium crystal and invite you to add to your own stemware collection. You may have seen us strike these amazing glasses against our granite counter-top and held your breath as you expected them to break only to watch them remain perfectly intact. This stemware is available in a wide range of styles from classic to modern and can be purchased for as little as $8.00/stem, plus shipping and handling. We’ll soon add more details to our website, so please check back if you are interested in placing an order, or email us directly for a catalog.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

OREGON, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN

Despite its youth as a wine-producing state, Oregon has become nearly synonymous with quality wine and notably its Pinot Noir. Yet, only a few decades ago, early settlers were laughed at by their peers. In 1966, David Lett was fresh out of UC Davis and determined to plant a vineyard and begin making wine. He found what he felt to be suitable land in the Dundee Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, founding the Eyrie Vineyard in 1970, and the rest, as they say, is history. 

David was joined by other wine pioneers shortly thereafter, setting the stage for this nascent wine region. Seeing similarity between their terroir and that of Burgundy (heartland of Pinot Noir), they set about crafting wines that emulated these icons while respecting their own unique soils and climate. Perhaps the most ringing endorsement of their success was the investment made by a top Burgundy négociant and producer, Maison Joseph Drouhin, when it established Domaine Drouhin in Willamette in 1988. Today, Oregon ranks as the fourth largest in U.S. wine production and its wines are highly acclaimed both here and abroad.

While wine regions exist in Oregon’s other valleys – namely Umpqua and Rogue, it is the Willamette Valley that has achieved the most fame. Situated only one hour from Portland, the Willamette is divided into six sub-appellations: Dundee Hills, Ribbon Ridge, Eola Amity Hills, McMinneville, Yamhill-Carlton District and Chehalem Mountains. Beyond Pinot Noir, the Willamette is also known for its Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and sparkling wines. To a lesser extent, some producers are working with Rhone varieties – Syrah and Viognier, most of which is sourced from the warmer Rogue Valley in southern Oregon.

Unfortunately, Oregon Pinot Noir can be quite pricey, due to its limited, labor-intensive, quality-conscious production. However, among New World Pinot Noirs, they are considered to be among the best. Thus, you will be well rewarded for your investment. At the more affordable end, A to Z Wineworks, WillaKenzie and Anne Amie’s Cuvée A provide good value. If you are feeling more flush and wish to splurge a bit, seek out Elk Cove, Bergström, and Cristom.

Tasting Notes

Adelsheim, Pinot Blanc 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $22.00
Among the early pioneers, Adelsheim was established in 1971. Its Pinot Blanc shows citrus, mineral and pear aromas. On the palate, it is dry with medium acidity, medium body and notes of citrus and minerality. 

Anne Amie, Cuvée A Amrita 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $16.00
Named for the Buddhist equivalent of ambrosia, Amrita is a white blend of Pinot Blanc (47%), Muller-Thurgau (25%), Chardonnay (15%), and Riesling (13%). Aromas of tropical fruit and grass give way to a dry palate with citrus and herbal flavors. 1,700 cases produced. 

Jezebel, Pinot Noir 2007, Oregon, $18.00
From Daedalus Cellars, Jezebel is produced as their second label, with grapes sourced from throughout the state for wines intended to be drunk early in their life. This Pinot Noir displays aromas and flavors of barnyard, raspberry and earth. 

Bergström, de Lancellotti Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Chehalem Mountains, OR, $65.00
With a focus on vineyard expression, Bergstrom produces several vineyard designate Pinot Noirs. The de Lancellotti Vineyard shows floral, raspberry and stone aromas and flavors, which combine with an earthy undercurrent that persists throughout its long length. 455 cases produced.

Penner-Ash, Syrah 2006, Oregon, $32.00
Produced in the northern Rhone Valley tradition, this Syrah is co-fermented with 1.5% Viognier. The nose is a mix of plum, berries and floral. Its dry, medium+-bodied palate has a nice, ripe tannic grip with flavors of plum, spice and leather, culminating in long length.

Amity Vineyards, Late Estate Harvest Riesling 2004, Willamette Valley, OR, $15.00 (375 ml)
Owner Myron Redford began making wine in the Eola-Amity appellation in 1974. His late harvest Riesling offers peach, apricot and honey aromas on the nose, joined by developing and floral notes in the mouth. A true dessert wine, it provides significant sweetness on the palate, which is beautifully balanced with vibrant acidity.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Do you speak wine label? (July 2009)

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Among my many goals in life is to become fluent in French. Yet, sometimes even when you speak/read the same language, it can still be difficult to translate the precise meaning of the words in front of you. If this sounds like you in the wine store, this month’s newsletter will help you become bilingual — you’ll learn how to speak wine label.

In the same vein of continuing education, Tracy will head to Sacramento later this month for the Society of Wine Educators (SWE) annual conference. Arriving prior to the start of the main conference activities, she will co-facilitate the society’s Certified Wine Educator Preview course, before immersing herself in three full days of wine seminars.

Grand Cru Classes proctored SWE’s first level exam – the Certified Specialist of Wine – this past April. The self-tutorial course is appropriate for both enthusiasts and wine trade, alike. We may schedule future test dates at our Mattituck facility, so if you have an interest in sitting for this exam, please let us know.

Finally, we are thrilled to announce the launch of two new classes. Where the Bargains Are: The Best Wines for the Budget-Conscious will join our class schedule in August and All that Glitters is not Champagne, which will focus on bargain bubblies, will debut in October, just in time for holiday party planning.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

DO YOU SPEAK WINE LABEL?

Wandering through the wine store’s aisles, a wombat stares at you from the shelf. You stare back. You wonder what the furry critter has to do with wine, but he keeps staring and is, in fact, quite cute. You decide to take him (and the bottle) home. Besides, you really don’t know what all of the other text on the label is really telling you, so why not choose a wine by its label? Admittedly, wine labels can indeed be quite confusing if you don’t know what to look for. However, with this simple tutorial, you can easily crack their code. 

What’s in a name?
First, we’ll start with the front label, which usually includes the name of the producer, name of the wine (if applicable)/grape variety, vintage and origin. The name of the producer is generally synonymous with the brand, i.e. Kendall-Jackson. If the wine contains a minimum of 75% of one particular grape (with higher percentages required in Oregon and the EU), the grape variety may be named on the label. If the respective minimum is not met, such as the case with wines blended from several different grapes, a wine may have a fantasy name, i.e. Insignia (from producer Joseph Phelps), which is simply a made-up name used to differentiate or designate a given wine. 

A vintage year
The vintage refers to the year in which the grapes were harvested, which may not the year the wine is released. If grapes from multiple harvests are blended together, the wine is considered to be non-vintage, usually abbreviated NV. This is very common in Champagne and Port, where vintages are only declared in great years.

I come from a land down under
Another important piece of information is its appellation of origin – the name of the place where the grapes were grown. Depending upon how large a net was cast, so to speak, the origin can be as big as a single country or as small as a named vineyard (which will also include the area in which the vineyard is located). In the U.S., our officially recognized wine regions are known as American Viticultural Areas (AVAs for short). In order to use a particular appellation of origin, a required minimum percentage of the grapes must come from that country, state or county (and their foreign equivalents). A higher proportion of grapes from a particular AVA is required to use the name of the AVA on the label.

I guarantee it
If a wine is labeled as Estate Bottled, 100% of the grapes were grown on land owned or controlled by the producer and located within a viticultural area and the wine was wholly made on the producer’s premises, which must lie within the same viticultural area as the grapes.

The rub with alcohol
Also on the label is the alcohol content, expressed as alcohol by volume. There are an increasing number of high (above 13.5%) alcohol wines on the market (frequently due to higher ripeness levels at harvest), and with slight fluctuations permitted, actual alcohol levels in that 15.5% labeled wine might really be closer to 16%. This may account for why the same one glass of wine with dinner now knocks you out.

Over there
In Europe, winemaking is a much older, more established art. Consequently, wines are entrenched in their particular regions and must adhere to strict laws, which permit what they can do and restrict what they can’t. Deviations from these laws mean that the wine in question may no longer be labeled as a quality wine, but rather as a table wine. Quality wines are labeled with the origin of appellation, but do not generally feature the grape varieties on the label, although this addition seems to be changing, at least for wines bottled for the U.S. Therefore, these wines are a bit more difficult to decipher if you are not familiar with the grape varieties and/or wine styles in that region. All the more reason to find a good local wine store and ask questions (or take a wine class with us). 

Now that you know how to read a wine label, you’ll be able to make a more informed decision about buying that wombat.

Tasting Notes

Some warm weather wines to cool you off this summer.

Badger Mountain Vineyards Pure White NV, Columbia Valley, WA, USA, $22.00 (3 liter)
An organic white in a box, this blend of 60% Semillon and 40% Muller-Thurgau has a very floral nose followed by a clean and citrus medium-bodied palate with a hint of herbal character.

Frederic Mallo Selections, Pinot Blanc “Special Delivery”, 2006, Alsace, France, $12.99
This slightly off-dry wine has lots of ripe, peach notes with a medium-full body and nice minerality.

Volteo, Viura + Viognier 2008, Vinho de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain, $9.00
A blend of Viura and Viognier, along with some Sauvignon Blanc, this easy-quaffing wine provides youthful aromas of citrus and tropical fruit, while the dry palate has flavors of citrus, peach and peach pit.

Domaine Spiropoulos Meliasto 2008, Peloponnese, Greece, $12.99
This dry rose hails from mainland Greece and is comprised of 70% of the indigenous Moschofilero grape. Almost Gewurztraminer-like on the nose, the wine presents with aromas of spice, lychee and floral, which are followed by similar flavors on the palate, culminating in a long length.

Orleans Hill, Zinfandel 2007, Amador County, CA, USA, $9.95
This sulfite-free, organic wine has bright berry aromas with a medium+ body and notes of raspberry and earth, along with an herbal undercurrent.

Wine shopping habits, wine scores and Costco

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A recent study, commissioned by Italian wine producer Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, revealed interesting differences between Italian and U.S. wine consumers. It seems that Italian wine drinkers are more focused on quality and thus, continue to buy wine at the same quality levels as previously during this economic downturn. However, they are buying fewer bottles.

Conversely, according to a Nielsen Group study, Americans are drinking in the same quantities, but have adjusted the price point of their purchases. Accordingly, if one used to buy wine in the $15-$20 range, that same consumer is likely now buying wines in the $10-$15 price bracket.

These studies and the comparisons drawn across them serve as an interesting barometer for wine sales during this economic crisis. As the U.S. is poised to become the largest wine market, retailers that offer a wide range of wines at lower price points should fare well.

However, a report from Rabobank indicates that consumers who are trading down in their preferences will possibly maintain their purchasing at the lower level for a long time. Therefore, the long term prognosis for higher end wines (above $15.00) does not bode well.

Concurrent with this news is the rumor that Costco will be changing its policy to limit its new wine purchases to 90+ point wines which retail for $15 or under. If the rumor is valid, Costco should be well positioned to sell wine both in the current and future economic environments.

Fellow Examiner, Dennis Schaefer (Kansas City Wine Examiner), who lives in a state where it is legal to purchase wine in a supermarket, is very alarmed about this potential new policy, fearing homogenization . Similar concern was voiced in New York when the issue of selling wine in NY State grocery stores was up for a vote. However, I am not convinced that this doomsday prediction will come to fruition in the way people envision. For example, Dennis suggests that certain wines will be excluded by this approach such as Vinho Verde. Yet, there are certainly Vinho Verde wines on the market that have indeed achieved good scores and fit within the price band; maybe not as many as Chardonnay, but they do exist. 

Costco has denied the rumor, but, regardless of whether Costco does alter its buying practices, consumer buying habits, with respect to wine ratings and shelf talkers, are likely to continue. Given that the average wine consumer is trading down and many have limited wine knowledge (and frequently, even less confidence in their ability to select wine), the opportunity to buy wines that experts have rated makes them feel more comfortable in buying wine, especially at lower price points (higher prices are often unconsciously thought to be of higher quality). 

While I am not personally a fan of relying on wine scores, I certainly do not condemn people who do, and, especially after my experience in working for a wine importer, recognize the power of high scores to sell wine. Consequently, it would be foolish for retailers not to promote these reviews, especially in larger stores where hand selling is not an option. We may find that wines that do not make the cut (those scoring 80-89) will find a home in smaller wine stores with well-trained sales associates that have the opportunity to tell these wines’ stories.

In any case, the wine industry definitely has its work cut out for them if they want to sell wines above $15.00 for the foreseeable future. Further, if we want consumers to think outside the wine score box, we will need to do a better job in educating them about wine and what quality wine really means beyond simple ratings. Moreover, we need to help them trust their palates and wine preferences. With such progress, we might see less elasticity in U.S. consumers’ wine purchases during the next economic downturn.