Category Archives: Israel

Avery returns to the mountain to make great wines at Galil

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As a more recent addition to the Israeli wine scene, Galil Mountain was established by Golan Heights Winery (which produces Yarden) as a joint venture in 2000. With its emphasis on entry-level wines, it serves as a lovely counterpoint to those produced at Golan Heights. But, make no mistake, these are still well-made, high quality wines, capable of aging, despite their wallet-friendly price points.

Keeping it within the family, Galil Mountain recently appointed Michael Avery as a winemaker for the brand, who had previously worked closely with Victor Schoenfeld at Yarden for more than a decade. Michael speaks very highly of his mentor noting that Victor is one of the biggest contributors to the industry and, more personally, acknowledges how much he learned from him, including how to make sparkling wine.

Before arriving in Israel, Avery was raised on the family farm in Mildura, Australia, gaining exposure to grape growing and winemaking, which he then pursued formally, earning degrees in winemaking from Monash University and the University of Adelaide. Upon graduation, he worked in McLaren Vale for Kangarilla Road/Gemtree Winery, then later studied with an Israeli and decided to do a vintage in Israel. Not long after, Victor offered him a seasonal position, which Avery jokes was a really long vintage, staying on with Yarden until 2018. After a brief hiatus in Oregon, Avery returned to Israel to take on a winemaker role with Galil Mountain.

Avery is excited about the opportunity to work at Galil Mountain, which cultivates five vineyards to the north of the Sea of Galilee. Here, the high elevation of the vineyards (the vineyards are at 2000 feet above sea level), volcanic soils, good diurnal variation, moderate temperatures, limited rain, no disease pressure, good light and great air circulation all conspire to provide very favorable conditions for grape growing. Consequently, they are able to grow various varieties, ultimately producing a wide range of wines.

Like its sister winery, Galil Mountain is focused on sustainable practices, which it has adopted from the Lodi Rules program. Avery explained that while some organic and biodynamic techniques have been implemented, the over-arching principle is to take the practices that work best for their situation. Among the more specific practices that are used at Galil include lots of compost and soil management as well as the reuse of materials such as the couches at the winery made from old pallets.

Under the Galil Mountain brand, the winery produces three main labels: Galil Mountain, Galil and its flagship wines, which are blends created from specific vineyards. The percentage of grape varieties change from vintage to vintage, depending on yield and growing conditions. Journalists were introduced to these wines (and to Avery) at a recent lunch, held at Gramercy Tavern.


TASTING NOTES

Galil Mountain Rosé 2018, $19.99
Produced from a blend of Barbera, Sangiovese, Pinot Noir and Grenache, this wine offered up nice fruit aromas and flavors of peach, berries/strawberry, with a slight grip and long length.

Galil Sauvignon Blanc 2018, $19.50
Aged on the lees for added texture, this wine was lean and mineral in character, with a pronounced nose of citrus and herbs. It displayed bright acidity, with a slight hint of ripeness on the palate, culminating in long length.

Galil Mountain Grenache 2018
This fresh and fruity, yet balanced, wine was medium-bodied, with lively acidity, aromas and flavors of berries and cherries, along with medium length.

Galil Mountain Merlot 2017, $15.99
This unoaked red showed notes of plum and coffee, giving way to flavors of red berries, sage and bitter chocolate. It had a more tannic structure than the Syrah.

Galil Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, $17.50
Notes of dark chocolate, menthol and black fruit greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, along with good acidity and medium+ body.

Galil Mountain Syrah 2017, $15.50
With gamey and leather aromas, this wine is fresh and full bodied, with red and black fruit and long length.

Galil Ela 2014, 19.99
A blend of Syrah, Barbera and Petit Verdot, this dry red wine spends one year in French oak barrels, but was quite delicate with smoke and red fruit aromas and flavors, medium+ body and long length.

Galil Alon 2014, $21.99
This wine is comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, which have been aged in French oak for 12 months. With darker fruit, spice, slight cocoa, well ripened tannins and well-integrated oak, this was an especially lovely wine.

Galil Yiron 2015, $35.00
Bringing together Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot, this dry red was intense and rich on both the nose and palate. It spent 16 months aging in French oak barrels and displayed an elegant structure, with lots of red and black fruit notes.

Yarden and Purim: A Day of Lots with Lots to Celebrate

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Life is often about fate. Whether you believe fate is predestined or that you make your own is another story, but it all comes down to series of different choices and their resulting consequences. This is the underpinning of the Story of Esther, which features prominently in the celebration of Purim. The Purim holiday takes its name from the Hebrew word for lots, since the fate of the Jewish people had been sealed by the wicked Haman who had cast lots as to which date their extermination would take place. Fortunately, his plot was foiled by the bravery of Queen Esther, and instead of the Jews being sent to the gallows, it was Haman who met his demise on that fateful day.

With such an emphasis on fate, it was fitting to meet Victor Schoenfeld of Yarden Winery on Purim this month. Thankfully, Victor’s own fate has never been so dire (at least not that I am aware), but it was a series of individual choices that he made that have brought him to his current role and place in the wine industry.

In pursuit of his love of food and the land, Victor first enrolled at UC Santa Cruz to study agriculture and later transferred to UC Davis to pursue a degree in viticulture. It was after spending a year managing a vineyard that convinced him that he needed to expand his knowledge to understand both grape growing and wine making, prompting him to fulfill the degree requirements in the latter as well. His next fateful decision was to accept a three-year contract to work for Yarden Winery, uprooting himself from Glen Ellen, California to the Golan Heights in Israel.

Arriving in 1991, Victor never expected to stay on beyond his initial contract, but today, 28 years later, he still holds the position of Chief Winemaker and is at the helm of 6-person team, all in pursuit of crafting quality wine. Having joined Yarden early on in its creation (the winery was originally established in 1983), Victor has been blessed with an amazing opportunity to truly grow the winery from the ground up. Currently, Yarden is a leader in the Israeli wine industry, making significant investments in research and development that is shaping its winemaking and that of its neighboring wineries.

When Victor first appeared on the scene, little was known about the region, but in the intervening years, he and his colleagues have come to better understand the climate, soils and the best way to grow grapes in the Golan Heights. As a country, Israel is relatively small, but it has a very diverse climate, which significantly impacts grape growing. As Victor notes, the key is to look to elevation to achieve the necessary cooler climate to maintain good acidity and freshness. Accordingly, whites are grown at 3,000-4,000 feet above sea level and reds can be found at an elevation of 2,000 feet. The soils are a combination of volcanic soils and even older mountain soils.

Now that they appreciate the nuances of their terroir, the emphasis is firmly on achieving even ripeness, which they do by carefully planning where the various vines will be planted. This permits them to get a good expression of varietal character. Once the grapes are ready to be picked, their quality control is further aided through hand harvesting and the use of optical sorting, ensuring that only the very best grapes find their way into the wine.  

Other areas of exploration undertaken by the winery have focused on ensuring quality rootstocks and vines. In this regard, Yarden has received ENTAV licensing for their own propagation area, growing vines and wood, with the goal of eradicating the country’s problem with leaf roll virus.

Additionally, they received certification from Lodi Rules Sustainable Winegrowing Program for their practices in the vineyard, the first winery outside of California to receive this recognition and a testament to Yarden’s commitment to the environment. This considerable accomplishment is bolstered by the winery’s use of solar power, recycling programs and development of an organic vineyard.

Overall, the various projects have permitted Victor and his team to use high tech tools to measure and understand how to grow great grapes and make excellent wine, such as their creation of a new way to measure vineyard strength. Consequently, they can react to any issues and make corrections as needed. As they continue to discover more about their land and how to best care for it, Victor notes that they are in the middle of a journey and adds that he is excited about what they are doing and learning.

Looking ahead, it is clear that the winery will continue to produce high quality wines that are both age-worthy and worthy of attention. What Victor’s fate will continue to bring, only time will tell, but for now, he continues to lead his team to good fortune and great wine. And, that, is definitely worth celebrating!

TASTING NOTES
Yarden Katzrin Blanc de Blancs late disgorged 2007, $105.99
This Traditional Method sparkling wine spent 10 years on the lees. Fresh with lively acidity, nice perlage, yeasty, toasty and citrus aromas and flavors, with good length.

Yarden Gewurztraminer 2017, $22.99
A pronounced nose of lychee, tropical fruit, spice and jasmine. Dry on the palate, with just a hint of ripeness, good acidity, slight oily texture, long length.

Yarden Chardonnay Odem Organic Vineyard 2016, $22.99
As Victor notes, “Oak is never the point…” of a wine, “It is a tool.” This wine spent 7 months aged in French oak barrels, with the wood well integrated into the wine. Dry, good acidity, good structure, not too heavy, creamy and round on the palate.

Yarden Katzrin Chardonnay 2017, $38.99
This Chardonnay is a blend of several different vineyards, taken from the most concentrated lots. Fresher than the Odem, but with more overt oak due to the lengthier aging (9 months). Still very youthful and will evolve in the bottle with time. Full bodied, apple, spice, angular, long length.

Yarden Merlot 2014, $30.99
Notes of plum, wood, coffee; dry, with ripe fruit, spice and medium tannins, giving way to long length.

Yarden Merlot Odem Organic Vineyard 2014, $105.99
More herbal in character than the previous Merlot. Spice, wood, plum, ripe, firmer tannins with earthy concentration, culminating in long length.

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, $35.99
As Yarden’s most awarded wine, this iconic Israeli wine is a diplomat for the winery. Beautifully balanced, with black fruit, good acidity, full bodied, firm ripe tannins, can age 15-20 years.

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon Bar’on Vineyard 2014, $105.99
Aromas and flavors of black berry, slight spice, herbs, it is ripe and fresh, with long length.

Yarden Katzrin 2011, $212.99
A Bordeaux-style blend, this wine is named for the town in which the winery is located. This vintage is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Merlot; more recent vintages include small percentages of Malbec and Petit Verdot. It has been aged for 24 months in French oak barrels. Brooding, menthol, black fruit, showing slight development, intense and concentrated, ripe, yet elegant, herbal, luscious, ripe tannins, with long length.

Yarden T2 2011, $22.50
This fortified, dessert-style wine is a blend of the Portuguese varieties of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao, which took some time to get established in the vineyard. It is aged for 28 months in French oak barrels. It displays a Port-like nose, with concentrated spice, cocoa and red fruit aromas, medium sweet, but beautifully balanced with bright acidity and long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Recanati Wines, In Search of a Few Good Grapes (March 2013)

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Recanati Vineyards MapThink Bordeaux and the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot varieties naturally spring to mind, while thoughts of Burgundy immediately recall Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But when it comes to Israeli wines, no specific grape variety comes to mind. Recanati’s winemaker, Gil Shatsberg, agrees. Moreover, he knows that the last thing that the world needs is another Merlot or Chardonnay. Yes, he does produce wines from these two (and other) grape varieties, but, since 2008, Gil has been working to more clearly define Israeli wines.

Shatsberg’s quest coincided with his arrival at Recanati. Launched in 2000, Recanati is owned by Lenny Recanati, an Israeli businessman with a passion for collecting wine. Originally from Saloniki, the Recanati family then lived in Italy for centuries before moving to Israel in 1933. With this Italian heritage, Lenny’s parents made wine from grapes grown in the backyard when he was a child, nurturing his love of wine. They winery initially produced 200,000 bottles and currently has an annual production of 83,000 cases, with 80% devoted to reds and 20% to whites.

Today, Shatsberg is looking to make wines that work well in Israel, beginning with the country’s Mediterranean climate and ending with the diversity of Israeli cuisine. Consequently, his search has led him to plant Mediterranean grape varieties such as Viognier, Petite Sirah and Grenache. Similarly, he has found existing vineyards that meet the same criteria such as a dry-farmed vineyard with 30 year old Carignan vines in the Judea Hills. Overall, he aims for elegant wines without high alcohol levels and that are meant to be drunk young, choosing to pick early, macerate for only a short period of time and ferment at cool temperatures.

Although many of the newer plantings have not yet come online, the winery is producing high quality wines from the usual suspects and has started its focus on Mediterranean blends. And, unlike the kosher wines from childhood memory, these certified kosher wines are an absolute pleasure to drink!

WINE TASTING NOTES

Recanati Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Shomron, Israel, $15.00
Sourced from grapes grown in the Upper Galilee, this wine delivers aromas of tropical fruit, pineapple and slight floral notes. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, rich and ripe fruit (especially pineapple), slight spice, and a round, full body, culminating in medium to long length.

Recanati Special Reserve White 2010, Galilee, Israel, $53.00
Produced from a vineyard selection of the winery’s top vines, harvested at limited yields, this wine is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 25% Viognier and 25% Sauvignon Blanc. Fermented in barrels with sur lie/bâtonnage aging, Shatsberg looks to Burgundy as his winemaking inspiration for this wine. The result is notes of honey, oak, pineapple, spice and orange with a dry palate of medium+ acidity and full body. Flavors of pineapple, tropical fruit, orange/tangerine, floral and a hint of peach are joined by slight spice and toothpick character in the finish.

Recanati Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Galilee, Israel, $17.00
Although these grapes are planted at a lower elevation than many other Recanati vineyards, this wine is still lively on the palate despite its big, bold fruit profile. The pronounced nose of blackberry and plum gives way to spices – cinnamon and anise. Dry on the palate with medium+ acidity and soft tannins, juicy fruit dominates the wine’s flavor profile.

Recanati Petite Sirah-Zinfandel Reserve 2011, Galilee, Israel, $26.00
A blend of 95% Petite Sirah, accented with 5% Zinfandel, Gil notes that it is important to green harvest (remove unripe grapes early on in the season) the Petite Sirah, which is capable of high yields, in order to permit the grapes to fully ripen. Intense floral, red fruit and spice aromas greet the nose. The dry palate has medium+ acidity and medium+ tannins with ripe, but balanced, red and black fruit character and long length.

Recanati Wild Carignan Reserve 2011, Judea Hills, Israel, $50.00
Produced from 100% Carignan grapes, this wine is sourced from an old vineyard near the kibbutz where Gil grew up and spends six to eight months aging in barrel. The nose offers up aromas of black fruit, blueberry, slight oak and cinnamon/spice. The dry palate has medium+ acidity along with notes of vanilla and black and bramble fruit. Despite a slight rusticity to this wine with its dusty tannins, it is very nicely structured and complex.