Home to the biggest carnival celebration worldwide (and thought of as the benchmark for all others), Brazil knows how to party! But, when it comes to libations, Brazil has been much more known for its cachaça than for its wine. In fact, although Brazil is the largest country in South America in terms of land mass, it only ranks third in terms of wine production, well behind Argentina and Chile. Previously, its wine was rarely seen outside the country mostly because the quality was not up to world standards and domestic demand was sufficient to account for most of the production. However, as in many emerging wine markets, times are changing and Brazilian wine has seen significant improvement. Moreover, Brazilian wine producers are beginning to share their wines with the world, with several of these wines now available in the U.S.
As a wine producing country, Brazil faces several challenges. Since only the southernmost part of Brazil extends into the temperate latitudes suitable for grapegrowing, nearly all of the production is centered here. But, despite being more moderate than the rest of Brazil, the region is still hot and humid given its proximity to the equator. Interestingly, this geographic position means that the vines can go through two complete growing cycles, permitting two harvests annually. To combat the humidity, the majority of the vineyards are planted with native American and French-American hybrid varieties, which are much more mildew resistant. Yet, most of the international varieties are grown as well, along with Moscato, Glera (the grape used to produce Italy’s Prosecco) and Pinotage. And, the reliance on these grapes is increasing.
Much of the Brazilian wine renaissance has taken place in southeastern Brazil, which accounts for most of Brazil’s vineyard land. This larger area can be divided into five distinct regions: Serra Gaúcha, Campanha, Serra do Sudeste, Campos de Cima da Serra, and Planalto Catarinense. A sixth region, Vale do São Francisco, is located in the northeast of Brazil. Within Serra Gaúcha is the country’s only official Denominazione di Origem (DO): Vale dos Vinhedos. While Vale dos Vinhedos originally gained recognition in 2001 as an Indication of Origin (IO), which was recognized by European Union in 2007, the valley was granted the higher status of DO in 2011. Wines holding this classification must comply with more specific regulations regarding the production of grapes and winemaking. Chief among the regulations, only vitis vinifera (European) grape varieties are permitted, with Merlot and Chardonnay being specified as the flagship grapes and requiring 85 percent minimums for varietal labeling of these wines. In addition to single variety wines, red blends are produced as are sparkling wines in both the Tank and Traditional Methods. As Brazil’s wine industry continues its upward trajectory, let’s raise a glass and let the good times roll.
TASTING NOTES
Vinicola Aurora Carnaval Moscato White Espumante NV, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $13.00 A Charmat Method sparkling wine produced from Moscato Bianco and Moscato Giallo grapes, this wine offers up floral and peach aromas. On the palate, it is off-dry, nicely balanced by acidity, with white flowers and juicy, ripe peach flavors; simple, but balanced and refreshing.
Vinicola Aurora Carnaval Moscato Pink Espumante NV, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $13.00
From the same producer and grape variety, this wine is produced similarly to the Moscato White, but it is medium salmon in color with red flowers and red fruit aromas. Strawberry and cherry flavors co-mingle on the off-dry palate, which is slightly sweeter than the Moscato White, yet finishes very cleanly.
Basso Monte Paschoal Virtus Moscato 2011, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $16.00 Like many South Americans, the Basso family came from Italy in the late 1800s and established their current facility in 1940. Exhibiting classic Muscat aromas of floral/jasmine, Asian pear, peach and a hint of grapiness, this wine is a pleasant surprise given its dry and medium-bodied palate with sufficiently vibrant acidity. Very refreshing and easily paired with a variety of cuisine.
Salton Talento 2007, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $26.00
The Salton Winery was the first Brazilian winery to celebrate its 100th anniversary and is presently run by the third generation of the family. The Talento is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Tannat, which has been aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. Meaty, red fruit and slight spice aromas greet the nose, joined by herbal and coffee notes on the dry, medium-to-full bodied palate.
Salton Desejo 2007, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $26.00
Salton’s Desejo is produced from 100% Merlot, which has been aged in oak barrels (50% French; 50% American oak) for 12 months. The wine has aromas of dried herbs, cut grass and black cherry, all of which persist on the full-bodied palate, coupled with anise and spice.
Lidio Carraro Grande Vindima Quorum 2009, Vale dos Vinhedos, Brazil, $65.00
Produced only in the best years, the Grande Vindima 2006 is a blend of 40% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Tannat and 15% Cabernet Franc, with no time spent in wood. The nose is dominated by cinnamon, red fruit and sage, while floral and minty notes present on the palate, culminating in long length.
