The Hills Are Alive with the Sound of Schiava: Grand Cru Grapevine (May 2013)

Posted on May 2, 2013 by Tracy

My colleague and friend, Tim Gaiser, was in New York in late April to sing the praises of Alto Adige, accompanied by several of the region’s winemakers. And, singing its praises is quite apropos. At a previous seminar on the region, Cornerstone Communication’s CEO Marsha Palanci explained that, “This is the only part of Italy where you can hear yodeling in one window and arias in another.” Not surprisingly, in looking at regional photos, you would half expect Julie Andrews to suddenly appear and belt out songs from the Sound of Music.

Nestled between Italy to the south and Switzerland and Austria to the north, Alto Adige is the northernmost region of Italy. The region was under Austrian rule from the defeat of Napolean until 1919, hence the yodeling. And, to this day, both German and Italian are the official languages. With the Dolomites to the East and the Alps to the north, Alto Adige is sheltered from the cold forces of the North. These mountain ranges also form a rain shadow, which limits the area’s overall rainfall, the result of which is 300 sunny days per year.

The vast valley floors are littered with apple orchard after apple orchard, which accounts for the region’s claim as the largest European producer of apples. Meanwhile, the area’s steep slopes (with an average slope of 50 to 60 degrees, similar to that found in the Mosel or Wachau) are given over to white grapes while the lower, rolling hills are planted to reds. The high elevation of these vineyards provides good sunlight, which promotes ripening, and a significant diurnal shift (temperature variation from day to night can fluctuate as much as 40 degrees F), which retains high acid levels in the grapes.

Within the region, grape production spreads out from central Bolzano in a Y-shaped configuration, bearing a striking resemblance (in Tim’s eyes) to the flux capacitor from Back to the Future. The yin-yang of past and present spills over to the grapes themselves. At nearly 20% of all plantings, Schiava is the most grown variety in the region, with its first documented mention dating to the 1600s. However, this ancient grape has been associated with Italy since the 1300s. Big berried, with thin skins, Sciava is known for producing wines with low tannins, low alcohol and cherry aromas and flavors and an almond aftertaste. These are elegant wines for everyday drinking.

Other key varieties include Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco (aka Pinot Blanc), Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Nero (aka Pinot Noir) and Lagrein, the diversity of which highlight the region’s Germanic and French influences. White plantings account for 58% and have been on the rise.

Regardless of the specific variety used, Alto Adige wines are known for their high quality. In fact, when considered separate from Trentino, Alto Adige is the smallest of Italy’s 20 regions; yet, despite its limited size, 98% of its production is at the Protected Designation of Origin level – the most of any Italian region. And that’s something to sing about.

TASTING NOTES

Kaltern Caldaro Pinot Grigio Söll 2011, Alto Adige DOC, Austria, $16.00
This is a classic Pinot Grigio with smoke, floral and citrus aromas and flavors. Twenty percent of the wine was aged in used barrels, which gives it some more depth on the palate. It is bone dry with high acidity and distinctly mineral in the long finish.

Cantina Terlano Sauvignon Blanc Quarz 2010, Alto Adige Terlano DOC, Austria, $53.00
We tasted two Sauvignon Blancs during Tim’s seminar with this being the softer style of the two. Stone and mineral characteristics co-mingled with citrus, peach and slightly herbal notes with medium+ acidity and medium to full body.

Tramin Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer 2011, Alto Adige DOC, Austria, $47.00
I really enjoyed this wine with its distinct floral and tropical fruit notes, so indicative of the Gewürztraminer grape. What I also liked was its lack of lavender/soap characteristics that some of these wines tend to have (for me). Exotic and spicy on the palate, this dry wine has beautiful acidity and long length.

Castelfeder Schiava Breitbacher 2011, Alto Adige DOC, Austria, $14.00
Pale ruby in color, this dry wine is very refreshing with high acidity and light body along with aromas and flavors of cherries, floral, earth and wet leaves. It is very easy to drink and would be a perfect accompaniment for a wide range of cuisine.

Tiefenbrunner Lagrein Riserva Linticlarus 2009, Alto Adige DOC, Austria, $26.00
Described by my friend Tony as being reminiscent of beets, this wine displays rich red and black cherry aromas joined by floral, mineral and granite notes. It has medium+ acidity and is nicely structured with full body and firm tannins and could age for up to ten years.

All photos courtesy of Alto Adige Wines.

Eccoci Wine: Hard to Read, Easy to Enjoy

Posted on April 29, 2013 by Tracy

When I first received the Eccoci wine samples, I was a bit confused. I couldn’t quite read the script signature written across the label. Fortunately, while the logo is a bit challenging to decipher, the wines themselves are straightforward and easy to enjoy.

Although the area near Barcelona is well known for its production of Cava and Priorat wines, the Eccoci winery is producing some unusual wines in the province of Girona. Drawing from its close proximity to France (the vineyards are only one hour south of the border), the wines are made with French grape varieties including Viognier, Marsanne, Petit Manseng, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Marselan and Petit Verdot.

Eccoci practices sustainable farming methods and, while the term leaves a lot of room for interpretation, the winery’s commitment to preserving the environment is clear. In fact, it was the first Spanish winery to be Carbon Zero certified as of 2009, only one year after its first vintage.

Eccoci currently produces four wines: Blanco (white), Rosado (rosé), Tinto Premium and Tinto Super Premium (both red blends). I was immensely impressed with the white and rosé, which displayed lovely fruit and freshness. While I liked the two reds very much, they are still quite tannic and need more time before coming into their own.

Eccoci Blanco 2011, Spain, $15.00
A blend of 50% Roussanne, 30% Viognier and 20% Petit Manseng, this wine offers up floral, musk, tangerine and peach aromas. It is dry on the medium-bodied palate with ripe peach and tangerine fruit, coupled with blossom and crushed stone notes, reminiscent of a southern Rhône white.

Eccoci Rosado 2011, Spain, $18.00
This 100% Petit Verdot rosé displays musk, berry and blossom/floral aromas. The dry palate has high acidity with berry, slight citrus, mineral and herbal characteristics, culminating in long length.

Eccoci Tinto Premium 2008, Spain, $34.00
This wine brings together 34% Marselan, 33% Merlot and 33% Cabernet Franc. It was aged for three months in new Merrain French oak barrels followed by six months in bottle before release. Berries, herbs and dried floral aromas give way to rich and ripe black cherry fruit with spice and mint notes co-mingled.

Eccoci Tinto Super Premium 2009, Spain, $48.00
A blend of 60% Marselan, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, this wine was aged for 12 months in new Merrain French oak barrels, with another 12 months spent in bottle before release. Meaty with red fruit, leather and spice, the wine has high acidity, full body, firm tannins and long length.

Moscato by twos

Posted on April 28, 2013 by Tracy

As one of the oldest grape varieties, Muscat (alternately known as Moscato) continues to be among the top grapes produced worldwide. Most recently, it has become increasingly popular in the U.S. market. While more known for its sweeter styles of wine, this variety can also be used to make dry wines. However, off-dry styles seem to dominate. And, with their lower alcohol levels, these are wines that will keep your head clear after a second glass.

As evidence of its popularity around the globe, such wines hail from Italy, California and even Brazil. And, they frequently come in pairs – with a white and pink version available — and may be still or sparkling.

Vinicola Aurora Carnaval Moscato White Espumante NV, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $13.00
A Charmat Method sparkling wine produced from Moscato Bianco and Moscato Giallo grapes, this wine offers up floral and peach aromas. On the palate, it is off-dry, nicely balanced by acidity, with white flowers and juicy, ripe peach flavors; simple, but balanced and refreshing.

Vinicola Aurora Carnaval Moscato Pink Espumante NV, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $13.00
From the same producer and grape variety, this wine is produced similarly to the Moscato White, but it is medium salmon in color with red flowers and red fruit. Strawberry and cherry flavors co-mingle on the off-dry palate, which is slightly sweeter than the Moscato White, yet finishes very cleanly.

Martin Weyrich Moscato Allegro 2011, California, $12.00
Produced from 100% Muscat Canelli, this is a still wine, but with a very slight effervescence perceptible in the glass and on the palate. Floral aromas greet the nose, joined by anise, sage and pear. The off-dry palate has medium+ acidity, with floral, pear, sage and slight anise/spice notes. Despite the noticeable sweetness, it finishes quite cleanly.

Martin Weyrich Pink Moscato Allegro 2011, California, $12.00
This wine is also a product of the Muscat Canelli grape, but “with just a kiss of red wine” giving it its pale pink hue. It has aromas of floral, berries and melon on the nose. Its slightly off-dry palate is less sweet than its white counterpart with slight spice, herbal and anise notes.

HandCraft wines over-deliver and warm the heart

Posted on April 9, 2013 by Tracy

An invitation to meet with Cheryl Indelicato and taste her new wines came with the opportunity to suggest a restaurant. I recommended Eolo, an Italian restaurant inspired by the owner’s summers spent at her grandparents’ home in Sicily, not knowing that Cheryl’s own grandparents had emigrated to the U.S. from this same island. Some may call it kismet. In the end, I just called it yummy.

Cheryl’s new line of wines, which is part of the Delicato Family Vineyards brand, is called HandCraft. As proprietor of the brand, Cheryl has been collaborating with winemaker Alicia Ysais since 2010 to literally handcraft wines that bring together a California pedigree, her Italian heritage and a fruit-forward style. Thus, each wine marries typical grape varieties such as Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with Italian varieties such as Malvasia and Sangiovese, all of which are sourced from California.

In keeping with wines’ approachable style and food-friendly focus, the labels feature beautiful illustrations of fruit and other flavors found in the respective wine bottle. Additionally, in keeping with Cheryl’s desire to give back to the community, she launched HandCraft Cares, which offers healthy lifestyle tips, recipes and supports various causes near and dear to Cheryl’s heart such as the $100,000 raised in 2012 for breast cancer research, prevention and awareness. This dedication spills over to her team, which has also participating in walk-a-thons and other charitable events.

I probably should have asked Cheryl a lot of detailed questions about her wines, but in reality, it was much more fun to simply sit back and get to know Cheryl, Holly, Pat and Karen, personally, instead of professionally, over some lovely glasses of wine and delicious food. In fact, these are precisely the type of wines with which to do so – these are honest, gulp-able wines that don’t require pomp and circumstance, just an empty glass and an open heart. Moreover, at $13.00 a bottle they under-promise and over-deliver.

HandCraft Chardonnay 2011, California, USA
The Chardonnay, blended with “a dash of Malvasia Bianca” is rich and buttery with peach and pear aromas and flavors. Its full body was opulent and giving.

HandCraft Pinot Noir 2010, California USA
Blended with Sangiovese, the Pinot Noir is very fruity, but varietally correct. It has cherry and herbal notes with bright acidity and low tannins.

HandCraft Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, California USA
Like the Pinot Noir, the Cabernet is also joined by Sangiovese, which seems to be more evident in this wine with a slight tomato leaf character on the palate. Lush blackberry fruit dominates, with medium tannins and full body.

HandCraft Petite Sirah 2011, California USA
Sourced from Lodi, the Petite Sirah grapes are blended with Zinfandel, which is an almost identical variety to southern Italy’s Primitivo grape. The wine is smoky with cocoa notes and rich, ripe black fruit.

Label image courtesy of Delicato Family Vineyards.

All Dried Up: The Wines of Mister Amarone

Posted on April 4, 2013 by Tracy

Image courtesy of Masi Agricola.

Some people might address Masi Agricola’s president as Signor Boscaini, but a recent book profiling the well-known Venetian wine producer refers to him as “Mister Amarone.” A leader in the Amarone denomination, it is likely that Sandro appreciates the moniker, having tirelessly worked to improve the quality of this wine since the 1950s.

Of course, some might even say that the man is all dried up. Well, not him exactly, but most of his grapes. While the process of drying grapes is de rigor for Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, this practice is found in few other places, but Masi’s president has exported the technique both far and near. In fact, many of his wines feature a special logo, Appaxximento, Masi Expertise® coupled with Sandro’s signature, further emphasizing the winery’s commitment to this wine production style.

Boscaini’s initial efforts focused on maintaining the concentration for which Amarone has always been known, while losing the oxidized character. In this regard, he aimed to preserve Venetian tradition, while improving the wine’s quality, introducing new yeast strains that could work at higher alcohol levels and adjusting the fermentation period from 60 days to 45 days. In the 1950s, fermentations often took as long as 18 months. As a result, today’s wines are much fresher than their predecessors.

But despite technological embraces, other aspects of production remain quite traditional such as the use of wood mats on which to dry the Amarone-bound grapes. For this purpose, Masi prefers bamboo, the spherical surface of which reduces the contact between the mats and the grape skins and ensures good air flow. Whereas some producers have shifted away from this traditional approach

This delicate balance between tradition and modern practices further comes into play when controlling the environment in the drying facilities. When possible, the room’s temperature and humidity are regulated naturally, with vents opened and closed to create the ideal conditions for drying. However, when necessary, a computer takes over to provide the ideal climatic parameters. Designed by the Masi Technical Group in the 1990s, this complex system is referred to as NASA (Natural Appassimento Super Assisted).

In neighboring Friuli, Boscaini has brought the appassimento procedure to bear on the Verduzzo grape. Harvested rather late to achieve full ripeness, the grapes are then dried on racks for three weeks to concentrate the fruit and permit evaporation of the water content. These raisined grapes are fermented on their own before being briefly aged in barriques. They are then blended with Pinot Grigio, which has been picked much earlier to retain its acidity and fermented in stainless steel. When brought together, the result is Masianco, a complex wine with full body, depth and richness.

Conversely, the appassimento process is eschewed when producing Bonacosta, a Valpolicella Classico DOC made from Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Intended to be a fruity, young red wine, the simple production process, using non-dried grapes, retains this freshness.

Building in complexity among their Venetian reds, is Masi’s Campofiorin. Initially created in 1964, this wine had previously been called a ripasso, but Boscaini feels that this term has become corrupted and opts instead to label it as a Rosso del Veronese IGT and refers to it instead as a Supervenetian. Instead of conducting a more common technique of using the wine equivalent of an old tea bag, Masi dries grapes specifically for inclusion in the Campfiorin. Regardless of its name or label, the wine falls somewhere in between the fruity character of the Bonacosta and the big, Baroque style of an Amarone.

Masi also produces several different Amarone wines, including its entry-level, Costasera and Costaserva Riserva, as well as several different single-vineyard wines. However, the single-vineyard wines are only produced in excellent vintages, when conditions are right not only during harvest, but also once the grapes have been picked.

Farther afield, Boscaini’s imprint can be found in Argentina, where Masi launched a partnership with Norton in 1995. Here, Corvina grapes receive the same royal, dried-grape treatment and are then blended with Malbec. Appropriately named Passo Doble, this is a decidedly unusual and modern wine. All dried up? Maybe. But, all washed up? Never! Mister Amarone strikes again!

Grand Cru Grapevine: ‘Tis the Season to Think Pink (April 2013)

Posted on April 2, 2013 by Tracy

Image courtesy of the CIVP

With indictments accusing Puxatawny Phil of fraud being filed across the country, it’s clear that everyone is ready for spring. Whether it’s cabin fever, a thorough dislike of cold weather and snow or simply a desire to wear short-sleeves and sandals, the lure of warmer weather tantalizes us all. And, small, but simple, signs – sightings of ramps and fiddlehead ferns at the market, robins heard overhead or crocuses blooming on the lawn – provide a glimmer of hope that perhaps spring has finally arrived.

Although Alfred Lord Tennyson noted that “In the spring, a young man’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love,” a wine lover’s fancy might turn to thoughts of lighter wines, with the many shades of rosé serving as a further reminder of the change of seasons, a pink lining to the dark cloud that has been winter. Thus, we happily turn our attention to the rosés of Provence this month.

We hope that you will feel lighter in your heart with a spring in your step as we usher in this time of renewal and collectively “think pink.”

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

‘Tis the Season to Think Pink

Admittedly, rose-hued wines can be enjoyed all year round, but the palest blush of these pink wines heralded the near arrival of spring in New York as producers from Provence strutted their wines for press and trade in early March. Moreover, the message was made clear – thinking pink is no longer a fad. With nine years of growth in the U.S. market, rosé is one of the U.S.’s fastest growing wine categories in retail sales. While rosé wines hail from all over the wine world, France is the number one producer of rosé wine worldwide and Provence accounts for forty percent of all the French quality-level rosé wine production. In fact, the majority of Provence’s production (nearly 88 percent) is allocated to making rosé wines.

Blessed with near perfect, Mediterranean climate conditions, Provence prides itself on being the birthplace of all French wine. In fact, winemaking in the region dates to 600 BCE, representing a total of twenty-six centuries of wine production in France. Although the regional area is the IGP de Méditerranée, most Provencal wine is produced at the AOC-level with lovely dry rosés made principally from Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsaut. Tibouren, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon also complement these blends.

The 65,000 acres dedicated to rosé production are centered in three appellations: Côtes de Provence, which has three sub-appellations, and is the largest at 73 percent of overall production; Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, which comprises an additional 17 percent of production; and Coteaux Varois en Provence, which accounts for the remaining 10 percent.

Almost all of these wines are produced using temperature-controlled, stainless steel fermentation with an emphasis on maintaining vibrant acidity and fresh fruit aromas and flavors. These dry style rosés are exceptionally food-friendly, pairing well with a broad range of cuisines as well as being easily enjoyed on its own.

Les Vins Bréban L’Opale de la Presqu’ile de Saint Tropez 2012, Côtes de Provence, France, $14.00 This wine brings together 50% Grenache, 30% Carignan and 20% Cinsault. It was meatier and fleshier than some of the other wines I sampled that day with berry and peach notes. Nicely structured with slight grip and a hint of citrus pith, the wine has long length.

Mas de Cadenet Arbaude Rose 2012, Côtes de Provence, France, $15.00 Established by the Négrel family, Mas de Cadenet celebrates its 200^th anniversary this year, with the 7^th generation now at the helm. The family’s estate, named for a shrub in the juniper family, is situated near Aix-en-Provence. The Arbaude cuvée is a blend of 70% Syrah, 15% Carignan and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and displays fleshy, melon aromas and flavors with vibrant acidity, slight citrus pith and minerality on the elegant palate.

Maison Saint Aix AIX 2012, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, France, $20.00 With its very attractive, graphic label, this wine caught my eye across the room. After tasting it, it won over my palate as well. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Counoise, this wine offers up fresh, ripe berry fruit character on both the nose and palate. A slight minerality is evident on the palate, culminating in long length.

Château Coussin 2012, Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire, France, $25.00 Produced by the Sumerire family, which traces its heritage in the area back to the 13^th century, this wine is a blend of Grenache (70%), Cinsault (20%) and Syrah (10%). It has a beautifully floral nose with delicate fruit on the palate, which is joined by a hint of minerality in the finish. I also had the opportunity to taste the 2011 vintage of this wine, which showed some complexity in its year of development with darker fruit character than the 2012.

Château d’Esclans 2012, Côtes de Provence, France, $35.00 Well-known for its Whispering Angel rosé, Caves d’Esclans produces several other rosé wines including this one, which is a blend of Grenache, Rolle, Syrah, Tibouren and Cinsault. With some of the wine spending time in neutral oak barrels and undergoing bâtonnage (lees stirring), this wine takes on some complexity and structure, but still displays hallmark floral, melon and berry aromas.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Recanati Wines, In Search of a Few Good Grapes (March 2013)

Posted on March 4, 2013 by Tracy

Think Bordeaux and the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot varieties naturally spring to mind, while thoughts of Burgundy immediately recall Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But when it comes to Israeli wines, no specific grape variety comes to mind. Recanati’s winemaker, Gil Shatsberg, agrees. Moreover, he knows that the last thing that the world needs is another Merlot or Chardonnay. Yes, he does produce wines from these two (and other) grape varieties, but, since 2008, Gil has been working to more clearly define Israeli wines.

Shatsberg’s quest coincided with his arrival at Recanati. Launched in 2000, Recanati is owned by Lenny Recanati, an Israeli businessman with a passion for collecting wine. Originally from Saloniki, the Recanati family then lived in Italy for centuries before moving to Israel in 1933. With this Italian heritage, Lenny’s parents made wine from grapes grown in the backyard when he was a child, nurturing his love of wine. They winery initially produced 200,000 bottles and currently has an annual production of 83,000 cases, with 80% devoted to reds and 20% to whites.

Today, Shatsberg is looking to make wines that work well in Israel, beginning with the country’s Mediterranean climate and ending with the diversity of Israeli cuisine. Consequently, his search has led him to plant Mediterranean grape varieties such as Viognier, Petite Sirah and Grenache. Similarly, he has found existing vineyards that meet the same criteria such as a dry-farmed vineyard with 30 year old Carignan vines in the Judea Hills. Overall, he aims for elegant wines without high alcohol levels and that are meant to be drunk young, choosing to pick early, macerate for only a short period of time and ferment at cool temperatures.

Although many of the newer plantings have not yet come online, the winery is producing high quality wines from the usual suspects and has started its focus on Mediterranean blends. And, unlike the kosher wines from childhood memory, these certified kosher wines are an absolute pleasure to drink!

WINE TASTING NOTES

Recanati Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Shomron, Israel, $15.00
Sourced from grapes grown in the Upper Galilee, this wine delivers aromas of tropical fruit, pineapple and slight floral notes. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, rich and ripe fruit (especially pineapple), slight spice, and a round, full body, culminating in medium to long length.

Recanati Special Reserve White 2010, Galilee, Israel, $53.00
Produced from a vineyard selection of the winery’s top vines, harvested at limited yields, this wine is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 25% Viognier and 25% Sauvignon Blanc. Fermented in barrels with sur lie/bâtonnage aging, Shatsberg looks to Burgundy as his winemaking inspiration for this wine. The result is notes of honey, oak, pineapple, spice and orange with a dry palate of medium+ acidity and full body. Flavors of pineapple, tropical fruit, orange/tangerine, floral and a hint of peach are joined by slight spice and toothpick character in the finish.

Recanati Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Galilee, Israel, $17.00
Although these grapes are planted at a lower elevation than many other Recanati vineyards, this wine is still lively on the palate despite its big, bold fruit profile. The pronounced nose of blackberry and plum gives way to spices – cinnamon and anise. Dry on the palate with medium+ acidity and soft tannins, juicy fruit dominates the wine’s flavor profile.

Recanati Petite Sirah-Zinfandel Reserve 2011, Galilee, Israel, $26.00
A blend of 95% Petite Sirah, accented with 5% Zinfandel, Gil notes that it is important to green harvest (remove unripe grapes early on in the season) the Petite Sirah, which is capable of high yields, in order to permit the grapes to fully ripen. Intense floral, red fruit and spice aromas greet the nose. The dry palate has medium+ acidity and medium+ tannins with ripe, but balanced, red and black fruit character and long length.

Recanati Wild Carignan Reserve 2011, Judea Hills, Israel, $50.00
Produced from 100% Carignan grapes, this wine is sourced from an old vineyard near the kibbutz where Gil grew up and spends six to eight months aging in barrel. The nose offers up aromas of black fruit, blueberry, slight oak and cinnamon/spice. The dry palate has medium+ acidity along with notes of vanilla and black and bramble fruit. Despite a slight rusticity to this wine with its dusty tannins, it is very nicely structured and complex.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Laisser Les Bons Temps Rouler, An Introduction to Brazilian Wines (February 2013)

Posted on February 5, 2013 by Tracy

Home to the biggest carnival celebration worldwide (and thought of as the benchmark for all others), Brazil knows how to party! But, when it comes to libations, Brazil has been much more known for its cachaça than for its wine. In fact, although Brazil is the largest country in South America in terms of land mass, it only ranks third in terms of wine production, well behind Argentina and Chile. Previously, its wine was rarely seen outside the country mostly because the quality was not up to world standards and domestic demand was sufficient to account for most of the production. However, as in many emerging wine markets, times are changing and Brazilian wine has seen significant improvement. Moreover, Brazilian wine producers are beginning to share their wines with the world, with several of these wines now available in the U.S.

As a wine producing country, Brazil faces several challenges. Since only the southernmost part of Brazil extends into the temperate latitudes suitable for grapegrowing, nearly all of the production is centered here. But, despite being more moderate than the rest of Brazil, the region is still hot and humid given its proximity to the equator. Interestingly, this geographic position means that the vines can go through two complete growing cycles, permitting two harvests annually. To combat the humidity, the majority of the vineyards are planted with native American and French-American hybrid varieties, which are much more mildew resistant. Yet, most of the international varieties are grown as well, along with Moscato, Glera (the grape used to produce Italy’s Prosecco) and Pinotage. And, the reliance on these grapes is increasing.

Much of the Brazilian wine renaissance has taken place in southeastern Brazil, which accounts for most of Brazil’s vineyard land. This larger area can be divided into five distinct regions: Serra Gaúcha, Campanha, Serra do Sudeste, Campos de Cima da Serra, and Planalto Catarinense. A sixth region, Vale do São Francisco, is located in the northeast of Brazil. Within Serra Gaúcha is the country’s only official Denominazione di Origem (DO): Vale dos Vinhedos. While Vale dos Vinhedos originally gained recognition in 2001 as an Indication of Origin (IO), which was recognized by European Union in 2007, the valley was granted the higher status of DO in 2011. Wines holding this classification must comply with more specific regulations regarding the production of grapes and winemaking. Chief among the regulations, only vitis vinifera (European) grape varieties are permitted, with Merlot and Chardonnay being specified as the flagship grapes and requiring 85 percent minimums for varietal labeling of these wines. In addition to single variety wines, red blends are produced as are sparkling wines in both the Tank and Traditional Methods. As Brazil’s wine industry continues its upward trajectory, let’s raise a glass and let the good times roll.

TASTING NOTES

Vinicola Aurora Carnaval Moscato White Espumante NV, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $13.00 A Charmat Method sparkling wine produced from Moscato Bianco and Moscato Giallo grapes, this wine offers up floral and peach aromas. On the palate, it is off-dry, nicely balanced by acidity, with white flowers and juicy, ripe peach flavors; simple, but balanced and refreshing.

Vinicola Aurora Carnaval Moscato Pink Espumante NV, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $13.00
From the same producer and grape variety, this wine is produced similarly to the Moscato White, but it is medium salmon in color with red flowers and red fruit aromas. Strawberry and cherry flavors co-mingle on the off-dry palate, which is slightly sweeter than the Moscato White, yet finishes very cleanly.

Basso Monte Paschoal Virtus Moscato 2011, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $16.00 Like many South Americans, the Basso family came from Italy in the late 1800s and established their current facility in 1940. Exhibiting classic Muscat aromas of floral/jasmine, Asian pear, peach and a hint of grapiness, this wine is a pleasant surprise given its dry and medium-bodied palate with sufficiently vibrant acidity. Very refreshing and easily paired with a variety of cuisine.

Salton Talento 2007, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $26.00
The Salton Winery was the first Brazilian winery to celebrate its 100^th anniversary and is presently run by the third generation of the family. The Talento is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Tannat, which has been aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. Meaty, red fruit and slight spice aromas greet the nose, joined by herbal and coffee notes on the dry, medium-to-full bodied palate.

Salton Desejo 2007, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $26.00
Salton’s Desejo is produced from 100% Merlot, which has been aged in oak barrels (50% French; 50% American oak) for 12 months. The wine has aromas of dried herbs, cut grass and black cherry, all of which persist on the full-bodied palate, coupled with anise and spice.

Lidio Carraro Grande Vindima Quorum 2009, Vale dos Vinhedos, Brazil, $65.00
Produced only in the best years, the Grande Vindima 2006 is a blend of 40% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Tannat and 15% Cabernet Franc, with no time spent in wood. The nose is dominated by cinnamon, red fruit and sage, while floral and minty notes present on the palate, culminating in long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: France’s Southwest ~ The United Nations in a Glass (November 2012)

Posted on November 14, 2012 by Tracy

Just a proverbial stone’s throw from Bordeaux, the wines of southwest France offer an interesting perspective. Located south of Bordeaux and north of Languedoc, winemaking in this region is not new; it dates to 125 BCE. Yet, while Bordeaux has held fame and fortune for centuries, these smaller appellations cover a vast area, but have been largely ignored…until now.

Despite the area’s relative obscurity, many of France’s heralded grapes are given space in these vineyards. Bordeaux’s key grapes – Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet France and Merlot – are joined by the Rhône Valley’s Syrah and Beaujolais’ Gamay. Even more remarkable, these same grapes come together in a single glass, proving that, at least viticulturally, we can all learn to get along.

Meanwhile, other varieties grown in the region are found nowhere else – Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng, Mauzac and Arrufiac are among the top whites, with Fer Servadou, Prunelard and Négrette leading the reds. And the vast diversity is impressive; wines range from dry whites and sweet whites to tannic reds and softer, easy-drinking reds to sparkling wines produced in ancient methods that predate Champagne’s rise to prominence.

Those appellations which might draw some recognition include: Cahors, Madiran, Gaillac and Jurançon (not to be confused with the Jura, located in northeast France). However, names like Marcillac, Brulhois and Fronton are likely known to only to a few die-hard, franco-oenophiles. But, these are all names you should consider getting to know.

Why? Well, for starters, the reputation may not precede them, but the quality is certainly there. And, as the land of gastronomy – foie gras, duck cassoulet and delicious cheeses – you can be sure that these folks know their food and wine, meaning that the wines are extremely food-friendly. Moreover, as already mentioned, there is a wealth of wine styles from which to choose. But, if that’s not enough, perhaps their price tags will convince you. Of the six tasting notes included below, all are under $25.00, most are $12.00 or less and one even has a suggested retail price of $5.00.

So, truly, there is no reason not to embrace these magnanimous wines.

Domaine Tariquet Classic 2011, Côtes de Gasgogne IGP, France, $9.00
45% Ugni Blanc, 35% Colombard, 10% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Gros Manseng
Family-run since 1912, Domaine Tariquet also produces the local spirit, Armagnac. Melon and citrus aromas greet the nose. Dry with medium+ acidity, this wine shows flavors of apple and melon with a leesy character lingering in the long finish.

Domaine de la Chanade La Coste Blanche 2011, Gaillac AOP, France, $5.00
80% Loin de l’Oeil, 20% Mauzac
Among the newer producers, Domaine de la Chanade was established in 1997. With citrus and pronounced floral notes, this wine displays piercing acidity on the dry, light-bodied palate, with honey, apple and almond flavors.

Domaine Le Roc Le Roc la Saignée 2011, Fronton AOP, France, $12.00
Located near Toulouse, Domaine Le Roc has created a rosé that can stand up to steak! A blend of Négrette and Syrah, this wine spends four to five months on the lees. It has a red wine nose with black fruit, slight herbs and meat, all of which persist on the palate. Dry with a fruity attack, the medium tannins are especially perceptible on the finish.

Domaine du Moulin Méthode Gaillacoise 2011, Gaillac AOP, France, $18.00
The Hirissou family has been making wine for three centuries. This sparkling wine is produced from 100% Mauzac and offers up yeasty, floral and apple aromas. On the palate, it is slightly off-dry, but finishes very cleanly with yeast and apple flavors and a nice, creamy mousse.

Vignobles Arbeau Château Coutinel Tradition 2009, Fronton AOP, France, $9.00
60% Négrette, 20% Gamay, 10% Syrah, 10% Malbec
Vignobles Arbeau was created in 1878. A fruity nose displays aromas of black berries, floral and herbs. The palate is dry with bright acidity, cherry flavors and ripe, medium tannins.

Plaimont Producteurs Saint Albert 2011, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh AOP, France, $24.00
Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng, Petit Corbu, Arrufiac (percentages not stated)
Plaimont Producteurs was established when three co-ops came together in 1979. This dessert wine shows notes of peach, yeast and honey on the nose. Its medium sweet palate is decidedly a dessert wine, but, with medium+ to high acidity, it is not cloying. Peaches, honey and yeast all persist on the palate throughout the wine’s long length.

The winery visit that wasn’t: Masottina’s new facility

Posted on October 29, 2012 by Tracy

When Stefano invited me to visit Masottina during Vino in Villa last May, I was looking forward to seeing the winery and, as anticipated at any winery visit, I also looked forward to tasting the Masottina wines. Imagine my surprise when the winery turned out to be a construction zone. No, really. It was a full-out construction zone, complete with the need to jump over gaps in the pavement (in my customary high heels and a dress) and stay away from wet concrete. And yet, it turned out to be quite a visit.

Masottina is constructing a state-of-the-art facility that is enormous. The building would have been a bit of a monstrosity, marring the beautiful landscape given its behemoth size, but the winery is actually built into the side of a hill. A big hill. Thus, the underground levels practically disappear.

Gingerly walking down flight after flight, I was given a tour of each floor with Masottina’s Marketing Manager, Federico dal Bianco. In viewing the structure, Masottina appears to be sparing no expense. The concrete floors share space with stunning wood beams overhead, recalling the hull of a graceful ship, while the sheer height of the space, along with the massive support columns, puts one in mind of a church or Greek temple. It was impressive as a work-in-progress; it will be incredible to see completed.

But, despite spending about an hour at the site, plus a brief visit to their nearby vineyards, there was no wine, of course. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to taste through the Masottina wines at the Vino in Villa event later that evening.

While I did enjoy their Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore wines in both Brut and Extra Dry styles, it was their Rive-designated wine that stole my heart. Rive wines are a new classification that were introduced with the new regulations, which promoted Prosecco Superiore to DOCG status, and indicate wines that are harvested from a single vineyard in one of hte designated zones and at lower yields.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry “Rive di Ogliano” 2011
Aromas of floral, pear and minerality greeted the nose and were repeated on the palate. Not surprisingly, given that it was labeled as Extra Dry, the wine did display a hint of sweetness on the palate, but it was coupled with sufficient acidity to balance the slight residual sugar. This balance remained throughout the wine’s long length.

Beyond Prosecco Superiore, Masottina also produces wines under several other denominations, including the (also newly promoted) Colli di Conegliano DOCG. Thus, when I arrived in Venice a few days later, I was delighted to see the Massotina Colli di Conegliano Bianco on the list at Al Covo. Admittedly, I didn’t take any tasting notes on this blend of Incrocio Manzoni , Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, but, trust me, it was a lovely pairing with my meal.

It's A Winederful Life

Living la vita del vino with Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

Category Archives: Wine Industry