No, I assure you, these were not received as samples (not that I would complain if they were), but I like this photo of mine.

The subject of wine samples seems to be  a hot topic among wine bloggers and other wine writers, especially when it comes to journalistic integrity. Much has already been written on this angle/aspect of the debate elsewhere and, as I am late to the pool party, I won’t attempt to crash it by jumping in at this juncture.

However, an interesting discussion on samples recently presented itself at an event I attended. A public relations representative posed the question of the assembled writers as to their opinon on unsolicited samples.

Some writers noted that they were happy to receive the samples regardless of whether they had been expected or not, while others were less enthused. The PR person had received feedback from a blogger who claimed to dislike receiving unsolicited samples and praised those PR folks who gave him/her the right of refusal before packing up a case and sending it along. Yet, this same person admitted that unsolicited samples received the same care and treatment as solicited ones — being logged and eventually drank (and possibly written about).

Consequently, the PR person was torn between being a good citizen and potentially denying his/her clients possible press or brazenly sending samples — bidden or not — all in the name of PR. Certainly, this is not a major dilemna, but something for those in PR to ponder in the course of their day to day activities.

If there was any consensus, it was that writers want PR people to at least do their homework and understand the writer’s beat. If s/he only writes about bargain wines, don’t send samples of premium wines priced at $50.00 and above. Yes, they are nice to get, but beyond personal consumption, they will not be useful as writing topics. It’s not a new story, but one that is sometimes forgotten in the rush to get samples out the door.

My own opinion is that, in general, I prefer to receive a request prior to getting the samples to ensure that I really do want them and/or that they are of interest to my writing agenda. Yet, I can’t deny that the occasional mystery arrival of wine feels a lot like Christmas or your birthday, but perhaps a bit better — even it its not what you asked for, it always fits.

Usually thought of as being of good quality, but too expensive, Long Island wines have often been dismissed. However, a blind tasting in Fall 2009 called that assumption into question. Presented by the Long Island Wine Council, the event featured five flights of wine, each showcasing an individual grape variety. Chardonnay made a double appearance in both oaked and unoaked styles. Each flight included two Long Island wines and two others, from throughout the world.

While some regional characteristics showed through, especially to experienced blind tasters, none of the wines stuck out as being extremely different or of lesser quality. In this regard, the Long Island wines showed quite well and clearly demonstrated their ability to compete on an international stage. More importantly, they were generally less expensive than their international counterparts.

For example, the two Long Island oaked Chardonnays from Pelligrini Estate Vineyards and Castello di Borghese were priced at $14.99 and $25.00, respectively, compared to the Flowers Chardonnay from Sonoma Coast at $47.99 and a Langoureau Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Grerenne’ at $57.00.

If you have overlooked Long Island wines, now is a great time to visit the wineries. Through March 21, 2010, the Long Island wineries will celebrate Jazz on the Vine, with free jazz concerts featuring the hottest jazz headliners. This special series provides visitors with an opportunity to taste wonderful wines while listening to great music. Several wineries will welcome the Steinway Series, with musicians playing on donated Steinway baby grands. The full calendar is available online.

A recent study, commissioned by Italian wine producer Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, revealed interesting differences between Italian and U.S. wine consumers. It seems that Italian wine drinkers are more focused on quality and thus, continue to buy wine at the same quality levels as previously during this economic downturn. However, they are buying fewer bottles.

Conversely, according to a Nielsen Group study, Americans are drinking in the same quantities, but have adjusted the price point of their purchases. Accordingly, if one used to buy wine in the $15-$20 range, that same consumer is likely now buying wines in the $10-$15 price bracket.

These studies and the comparisons drawn across them serve as an interesting barometer for wine sales during this economic crisis. As the U.S. is poised to become the largest wine market, retailers that offer a wide range of wines at lower price points should fare well.

However, a report from Rabobank indicates that consumers who are trading down in their preferences will possibly maintain their purchasing at the lower level for a long time. Therefore, the long term prognosis for higher end wines (above $15.00) does not bode well.

Concurrent with this news is the rumor that Costco will be changing its policy to limit its new wine purchases to 90+ point wines which retail for $15 or under. If the rumor is valid, Costco should be well positioned to sell wine both in the current and future economic environments.

Fellow Examiner, Dennis Schaefer (Kansas City Wine Examiner), who lives in a state where it is legal to purchase wine in a supermarket, is very alarmed about this potential new policy, fearing homogenization . Similar concern was voiced in New York when the issue of selling wine in NY State grocery stores was up for a vote. However, I am not convinced that this doomsday prediction will come to fruition in the way people envision. For example, Dennis suggests that certain wines will be excluded by this approach such as Vinho Verde. Yet, there are certainly Vinho Verde wines on the market that have indeed achieved good scores and fit within the price band; maybe not as many as Chardonnay, but they do exist. 

Costco has denied the rumor, but, regardless of whether Costco does alter its buying practices, consumer buying habits, with respect to wine ratings and shelf talkers, are likely to continue. Given that the average wine consumer is trading down and many have limited wine knowledge (and frequently, even less confidence in their ability to select wine), the opportunity to buy wines that experts have rated makes them feel more comfortable in buying wine, especially at lower price points (higher prices are often unconsciously thought to be of higher quality). 

While I am not personally a fan of relying on wine scores, I certainly do not condemn people who do, and, especially after my experience in working for a wine importer, recognize the power of high scores to sell wine. Consequently, it would be foolish for retailers not to promote these reviews, especially in larger stores where hand selling is not an option. We may find that wines that do not make the cut (those scoring 80-89) will find a home in smaller wine stores with well-trained sales associates that have the opportunity to tell these wines’ stories.

In any case, the wine industry definitely has its work cut out for them if they want to sell wines above $15.00 for the foreseeable future. Further, if we want consumers to think outside the wine score box, we will need to do a better job in educating them about wine and what quality wine really means beyond simple ratings. Moreover, we need to help them trust their palates and wine preferences. With such progress, we might see less elasticity in U.S. consumers’ wine purchases during the next economic downturn.