Category Archives: Wine Industry

The Circle of Life

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From year to year, winemakers get the opportunity to begin again and make a new wine from a new harvest. Each vintage sharing some of the same elements as the one before, yet making its own mark on the world.

The newest vintage of wines from Bordeaux’s Right Bank (Rive Droite) was premiered at a Le Cercle Rive Droite tasting in March. Accordingly, barrel samples from 2010 were on offer from chateau in Pomerol, St. –Emilion and other Right Bank appellations.

Baronne Guichard owns three separate properties, each with a unique terroir – Chateau Vray Croix de Gay in Pomoerol with gravely soils; Chateau Siaurac in Lalande de Pomerol with clays and gravels; and Chateau Le Prieure in St.-Emilion with soils of limestone and clay. Accordingly, the ability to do a mini-vertical and mini-horizontal tasting presented itself.

Proprietor Paul Goldschmidt describes the Chateau Le Prieure wine as being feminine and notes that the slopes are south-facing. The 2010 was very mineral in character with herbal notes (which Paul qualified as “Herbs de Provence, but under the shade”) and red fruit. The 2008 was similarly herbal with red fruit, but the minerality wasn’t present.

Paul characterizes the wines from Chateau Siaurac as being more masculine and explained that its appellation is known as the “poor man’s Pomerol” due to its lower price. The 2010 was intense with a concentrated nose of blackcherry, while the 2008 had mellowed and showed more red than black fruit.

The sample of Chateau Vray Croix de Gay has a slightly different make-up than its brethren, featuring more Merlot (90% vs. 80%) and thus less Cabernet Franc. The 2010 was concentrated with floral aromas while the palate had firm, tight tannins, blackcherry, some spice and long length. Similarly, the 2008 was rich, lush and ripe, but with the flavors and structure more closely knitted together with time.

Notes from Napa

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A venture from the folks at Folie à Deux, Napa Cellars produces a full range of the usual suspects and prides itself on producing consistent wines from vintage to vintage, by sourcing fruit from quality vineyards throughout the Napa Valley. The winemaker is Joe Shirley.

Napa Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $26.00
Winemaking: 18 months of aging, predominantly in French oak, 55% of which was new.
Aromas: Red and black fruit, pepper, oak and mint
Flavors: Juicy fruit notes of blackberry, oak and eucalyptus
Structure: Medium acidity; medium, ripe tannins; medium+ length

Napa Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Napa Valley, CA, $18.00
Aromas: Pronounced herbal and citrus
Flavors: Lemon, lemon meringue, slight herbal
Structure: High acidity, medium+ length
A very nice wine.

Napa Cellars Chardonnay 2009, Napa Valley, CA, $22.00
Aromas: Apple, toast, smoke, slight melon
Flavors: Toast, apple, melon, smoke, caramel in finish
Structure: Medium+ acidity, medium+ body, medium+ alchohol, medium length

Napa Cellars Mount Veeder Chardonnay 2009, Napa Valley, CA, $32.00
Aromas: Oak, nuts, bruised apple
Flavors: Oak, apple, nuts
Structure: Medium+ acidity, full-bodied, medium- alcohol, long length

The Mt. Veeder wine was tasted with the regular Chardonnay. It was deeper in color and I found it to be more balanced in its use of oak. It also had a longer length.

Napa Cellars Dyer Vineyard Syrah 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $28.00
Aromas: Smokey, blackcherry, vanilla, hint of leather
Flavors: Blackcherry, vanilla, smoke and leather
Structure: Medium+ acidity, full-bodied, high alcohol, medium length
Powerful wine with concentrated fruit and nice acidity, but a bit hot.

Napa Cellars Zinfandel 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $22.00
Winemaking: 88% Zinfandel, 12% Petite Sirah; Aged 18 months in French & American oak (40% new)
Formal notes not taken, but the wine was very balanced and concentrated with bramble fruit and spice. It paired well with an Ecuadorian chocolate with banana and cayenne pepper.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Promoting Prosecco (February 2011)

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What a winter this is shaping up to be. With snow, snow and more snow piling up (at least for us Eastcoasters), it’s enough to make one wish they were hibernating for the season. Fortunately, grapevines go dormant for the winter season, so they are slumbering through all of the storms.

Tracy is lucky enough to have a brief respite early this month as she heads to Miami for the Simply Italian: Great Wines South Florida Tour. Once there, she will be presenting to the trade and press on the U.S. Wine Market and on the Friuli Grave DOC.

Upon her return, we’ll be packing for our trip to New Zealand for which we depart in mid-February. Our itinerary includes visits to numerous wine regions on both the North and South Islands, so we’ll have a lot to share with you when we get back.

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
      and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

Promoting Prosecco

Prosecco Superiore DOCG

The twinkling lights of the holidays are all but a dim memory (or at least they should be – if you still have your Christmas lights up, it’s more than time to take them down). But, sparkling wines can continue to take their place at the table this month.

In fact, much like the aptly named dessert, Tira Misu, which is traditional to the Treviso province, Prosecco can be the perfect “pick me up” during these dreary winter days. An Italian sparkler from the Veneto region, this wine has recently been promoted to DOCG status – Italy’s highest quality tier.

While previously produced from a grape known as Prosecco, the proliferation of “Prosecco” wines diluted the quality within the market, with bottles from Brazil taking up space on the shelf next to the true Prosecco. Not surprisingly, there was much confusion for the consumer.

Accordingly, the restrictions on what is (and isn’t) Prosecco were tightened in 2009, taking effect with the 2010 vintage. Among the changes instituted, Prosecco itself now refers to a territory and the grape is now called Glera, of which a minimum of 85% must be used. If not produced with 100% Glera, the remaining 15% can be made up of Verdis, Perera, Bianchetta, Glera Lugna, Pinot Nero, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and/or Chardonnay.

Moreover, there are now two levels of Prosecco – Prosecco DOC and Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. The former comprises nine provinces spread out among two regions (Veneto and Friuli), while the latter is confined to 15 communes within the Veneto’s Treviso province. The delimited area for the DOCG includes 4,500 planted hectares, 166 wineries and 3,000 growers.

In general, Proseccos are fresh and fruity, exhibiting the aromatic characteristics of the Glera grape. Produced via the Italian (aka Charmat) method of sparkling wine production, the floral and fruit aromas and flavors are retained, rather than masked through the use of stainless steel and minimal contact with yeast/lees (unlike the Traditional method). Refermentation is typically limited to 25-60 days, with an additional 30 days of bottle age, before release. Meant to be drunk young, the wines are increasingly being vintage-dated (most were previously non-vintaged) to provide the consumer with more information.

Wines may be labeled as being from Conegliano, Valdobbiadene or both, with Conegliano wines emphasizing fruit over floral notes and being slightly more structured. Conversely, Valdobbiadene wines show very developed floral aromas and more delicacy. Similarly to other sparkling wines, Proseccos will be labeled with a sweetness indication – Brut, Extra Dry, Dry or Demi-Sec – with the drier Brut style wines being more modern and the Extra Dry wines (which are only slightly sweet) among the most traditional.

Within the DOCG classification, look for wines labels as Cartizze, the “Grand Cru” of Prosecco Superiore, produced from a mere 106 hectares of vineyard located at the top of Valdobbiadene’s steep hills. In addition, Rive, a new classification introduced with the new regulations, indicates a wine that was hand-harvested from a single vineyard, with lower yields and produced in one of Prosecco Superiore’s subzones.

With a wealth of Prosecco wines from which to choose, nearly all of which will be quite pocket-friendly, it is easy to add some sparkle to your snow day and celebrate Prosecco’s promotion.

Prosecco in the glass

TASTING NOTES
Bel Canto di Bellussi, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Extra Dry, Veneto, Italy, $13.00
Purchased by the Martellozzo family in 1993, Belllusi is presently run by Enrico, the third generation in his family to work in the wine business. With a fine perlage, this wine displays red apple and floral notes on both the nose and palate. Off-dry and light, it is quite elegant.   

Bortolomiol, “Motus Vitae” Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Millesimato, Veneto, Italy, $NA
Run by four daughters and their mother, Bortolomiol carries on the determination and commitment of Giuliano Bortolomiol who not only founded the family business, but also was among the founders of the Prosecco Wine Fraternity in 1946. Dedicated to his memory, the Motus Vitae is dry with notes of apples and minerality, culminating in long length.

Val d’Oca, Uvaggio Storico, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Dry, Veneto, Italy, $24.00
A cooperative of 583 growers, Val d’Oca is the largest producer of Prosecco Superiore DOCG. The Uvaggio Storico, so named for its traditional blend of grape varieties – 85% Glera and 15% Verdiso, Perera and Bianchetta Trevigniana – mirrors the way Prosecco was made 20 years ago. With floral and pear aromas, the wine is off-dry with pear and floral flavors on the palate.

Villa Sandi, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG Vigna La Rivetta Brut, Veneto, Italy, $26.00
Produced from estate-grown grapes in the Cartizze area, Manuela Oregna, Villa Sandi’sExport Manager, explained that this wine was crafted in the Brut style to “underline the mineral aspect of the wine.”  The winner of Italy’s Tre Bicchieri (3 Glasses) award, the wine shows beautiful floral and mineral characteristics.

Vincenzo Toffoli, Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry, Veneto, Italy, $19.00
A family-owned winery established in 1964, the winery is presently run by Santo Toffoli, his daughter and other members of the Toffoli family. Produced from 95% Glera and 5% Verdiso, this wine has medium intense aromas of peach and floral which persist on the off-dry palate, with vibrant acidity and long length.

Ricco Soave

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While Soave was a popular wine during much of the 1960s and 1970s, this easy-drinking white lost its market share to Pinot Grigio, albeit in some cases it was perhaps deserved.

Fast forward four decades and Soave is trying to make a comeback in a big way. Numerous Soave events were held in New York City this Fall, including its appearance as the topic for the Wine Media Guild’s October luncheon. Unable to attend the lunch (see luncheon reports for details), I accepted several samples from a PR agency.

I had requested a sparkling Soave, but, unfortunately, did not receive it among the wines I did. The line-up included a box wine ( Duca del Frassino Garganega/Pinot Grigio blend, IGT – so not technically a Soave), Re Midas Soave and Foscarin  Slavinus Soave Superiore DOCG Classico. I “unwrapped” the box Halloween weekend as I prepared to go to a party and spent a few minutes with the glass, to evaluate the wine. It was, at best, acceptable. My husband tasted it as well and we agreed to pour the remainder down the drain.

A few weeks later, I braved the Re Midas Soave. I opened this wine in advance of dinner, hoping I would enjoy it at least enough to drink with my Indian take-away. After its boxed brother (cousin?), the wine was a pleasant surprise. It had aromas and flavors of citrus, almond and floral.

And, later still, we turned our attention to the Foscarin Slavinus Soave Superiore Classico 2007. Yes, a lengthy name, which held much promise, but, would it deliver? The Superiore term means that the wine has 1% higher alcohol (thus the fruit was riper at harvest) than the non-Superiore designation and is aged for at least six months, while Classico means the wine comes from the heartland of the region. In some Italian areas, the original delimited area has grown substantially and the historic portion of the region has been connoted with the inclusion of the term Classico in the name of the appellation.

The wine did not disappoint. We tasted it with a friend (with both culinary and wine experience) who had dropped by for dinner. The wine was a hit with all three of us and was an interesting foil for our delivered Thai cuisine. It showed some development with notes of almond, citrus and a slight oxidized note. It was well-balanced, with vibrant acidity, medium body and nice length.

So, will Soave make a true comeback? The results are mixed. There are some winners and losers, so Soave deserves a fair shake, but the quality has not yet proven itself across the board.

Que Syrah, Shiraz and Shiraz

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A trio of Syrahs crossed by table this fall (9/22/2010), providing me with the opportunity to explore the similarities and differences among wines from Australia and South Africa.

90+ Cellars Lot 4: Shiraz Viognier 2007, McLaren Vale, Australia, $17.00
92% Shiraz, 8% Viogner; Co-fermented and aged for 14 months in new French oak.
Co-fermented as is done with Côte-Rôtie, this wine displayed aromas of medium+ intensity that included blueberry black cherry, oak, earth and dried herbs. Of the three wines, it had the deepest nose. On the palate, it was full-bodied with medium+/high tannins, medium acidity and flavors of blackberry, cherry, oak, earth and spice, culminating in medium+ length. Overall, the wine showed good fruit concentration along with complexity and elegance.

Rudi Schultz Syrah 2007, Stellenbosch, South Africa, $30.00
100% Syrah; Aged for 20 months in French oak barrels (30% new; 70% second and third fill).
Winemaker and proprietor Rudi Schultz was prompted to go into winemaking after tasting great Northern Rhone wines. Thus, it is no surprise that his wines are crafted in a similar style. Notes of blackberry, earth, rubber, leafyness and meatiness were present on the nose, which was the most savory of the three wines. Another full-bodied wine with medium+ tannins, the palate showed blackberry, blueberry, leather, rubber and meatiness, all of which lingered in the wine’s long length. Overall, the wine was both powerful and aromatic.

Xavier Flouret Waroo Shiraz 2009. Pemberton – Western Australia, $18.00
100% Shiraz; Aged for 8 months in oak barrels (75% French, 25% American oak).
From the cooler area of Western Australia, this wine had blackcherry, vanilla, floral and dried/jammy fruit aromas. Similarly full-bodied to the others, this wine provided medium+ acidity and medium tannins on the palate. Its flavors included blackcherry, herbaceousness, leather, and a tart cherry note in the undercurrent. An earthiness remained throughout the wine’s long length. This wine  had the brightest acidity of the three, most likely due to its origins in a cooler climate.

This was an interesting exercise, showing the influence (and confluence) of grape variety, climate and production on the finished wine.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Talking Turkey (November 2010)

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We don’t know about you, but we find it hard to believe that November has arrived with Thanksgiving just around the corner (wasn’t it just July?).

Fortunately, we had a wonderful October, which included a fabulous trip to Italy’s Campania region, with visits to Mastroberardino and Feudi di San Gregorio. We’ll share additional details in a future newsletter.

This month finds Tracy presenting two sessions (Italian Sparklers and South African Wines) at the American Wine Society’s annual conference, while Jared finished up our public North Fork schedule this weekend with our From Mystery to Mastery class. But don’t despair; you can contact us for private classes and events year round at your place or ours.

As you prepare for the holiday, we hope you have a lot to be thankful for and wish you a very Happy and healthy Thanksgiving!

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer 

       and 

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer 

 

Talking Turkey

While turkey (the poultry) may grace your table soon enough, you may not have thought about setting your table with wines from Turkey (the country). Yet, there are some wonderful wines being produced there that are worth checking out.

Kavaklidere was Turkey’s first privately-owned, wine producer when it was established in 1929 in Ankara. Today, Kavaklidere is Turkey’s largest producer and the only one to import its wines to the U.S. (at least for now). Despite its size, Kavaklidere is considered to be the best producer in Turkey. Some of this can be attributed to a decision that the company made in 1993, a watershed moment that winemaker, Ali Basman, points to when Kavaklidere “decided to increase the quality” of its wines through improved technology and viticulture. As a result, the company has made significant investments to plant new vineyards and build new winery facilities, planting 170 ha at their Côtes d’Avanos Vineyard in central Anatoila that year. In 2005, an additional 200 ha site was identified in Pendore due to its tufa and volcanic soil, good diurnal variation and 3,000′ plateau.

Since 2008, Kavaklidere has partnered with famed enologist Stéphane Derenoncourt to focus on creating quality wines with Turkish grape varieties. Current plantings include 550 ha, which consist of indigenous varieties along with international varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Carignan. The company also maintains three winery facilities located throughout the country. Kavaklidere produces two grape juices as well as 43 wines, which range from still to sparkling and fortified and dry to sweet, with 20% of its products exported to foreign markets. With such a diversity of wines (although admittedly not all are imported to the U.S.), you are sure to find one that you’d happily serve with this year’s turkey. 

Wine Tasting Notes


Egeo Rose 2009, Aegean/Denizli and Pendore, Turkey
A blend of Cal Karasi (60%), Syrah (25%) and Grenache (15%), this wine was macerated for a brief period, producing a bright, pink hue and aromas of strawberry and floral notes. It is dry on the palate with vibrant acidity, showing strawberry with an herbal undercurrent.Cote d’Avanos Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Cappodocia, Turkey
This wine has a pronounced nose of lemon, lemon pepper and minerality. On the palate, it is dry with medium+ acidity and notes of lemon, stone and slight yeastiness, the latter a result of the15 months the wine spent aging on the lees (spent yeast cells). 

Pendore Okuzgozu 2008, Elazig, Turkey
Produced from 100% of the indigenous Okozgoku, this wine spends 12 months in French oak barrels. It is floral with red fruits such as raspberry, with moderate tannins, medium body and an undercurrent of bitter chocolate. 

Prestige Kalecik Karasi 2005, Ankara, Turkey
With its herbaceous and vegetal aromas, medium+ acidity and notes of bright red fruit, this wine, produced from 100% Kalecki Karasi, seemed to be most similar to Pinot Noir, but its full body pointed to its true identity. 

Beaujolais Nouveau 2010 arrives with Molly Sims, Franck Duboeuf and Peter Deutsch

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Molly Sims, Franck Duboeuf and Peter Deutsch welcome the Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2010...cirque style.

Like clockwork, the Beuajolais Nouveau arrived on the third Thursday of November, attended by a circus-style celebration for the 2010 harvest. Actress, model and jewelry designer, Molly Sims, was on hand to toast the first glass from Georges Duboeuf, with George’s son, Franck, serving as Master of Ceremonies under the big top at District 36. The luncheon, prepared by chef Marc Murphy (of Landmarc and now also Benchmarc catering), was accompanied by the Beaujolais Nouveau 2010 and the Morgon Jean Descombes 2009. Other Beaujolais crus were available at the self-pour bar during the initial reception. Overhead, attendees were treated to aerialists dangling from silks, while jugglers, magicians and contortionists dazzled at eye-level.

Beaujolais, whether Nouveau or not, is a wine made in the southernmost part of Burgundy from the Gamay grape. While Gamay is not most people’s favorite grape variety — often associated with prejorative aromas of bubble gum and banana, this year’s wine showed none of these characteristics and was simply pleasing with its ripe cherry fruit and soft tannins. And, it went nicely with the meal.

As a wine, Beaujolais Nouveau has both its share of proponents and detractors, but for me, it is more about the symbolism than the wine itself. Here we are in November, only a few weeks after the harvest and we have much to be thankful for and much to celebrate. Along comes Beaujolais Nouveau, ready to honor the year’s work. Most wines are still preparing for the party (and may take years to do so as they dress in layers of oak, vanilla and toast), but Beaujolais Nouveau and other wines produced in a nouveau-style are not only fully dressed, they are prepared to dance until dawn.

No, it is not a wine on which to meditate, but sometimes all you need is a simple glass of wine, good food and good friends in order to sit back and enjoy the good life. Salut!

Juggler at Beaujolais Nouveau celebration.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Bubbles Born in the USA: American Sparklers (October 2010)

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We have had a busy, but productive, fall season thus far. Our wine salon, From Mystery to Mastery, conducted as part of the East End’s first HARVEST Wine Auction & Celebration was met with great success as was Tracy’s Sex, Wine & Chocolate event with certified sexuality educator, Amy Levine, held at the beautiful Coco de Mer erotica and lingerie store.

Tracy will be teaching at the International Wine Center later this month and at NYU for three classes in November. Her session on Italian Sparkling wines, to be presented at the American Wine Society’s (AWS) annual conference is sold out with 90 registrants and only a few seats remain for her session on South African Wines.

In honor of the AWS’ conference location in Cincinnati, OH – what we’ve dubbed, “the other Cin city” and birthplace of America’s first sparkling wine – we bring you the history of Nicholas Longworth this month.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer 

       and 

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer 

Bubbles Born in the USA: America Sparkles

America has long had a love affair with sparkling wine, yet, while many Americans would be quick to identify Dom Perignon as an iconic figure of the Champagne region, few would know that they owe a debt of sparkling gratitude to Nicholas Longworth who created the first American sparkling wine – a Sparkling Catawba, in 1842.

Born in Newark, New Jersey, in 1783, this “crazy Jerseyman” stood somewhere between 5′-1″ and 5′-3″ and arrived in Cincinnati in 1804 (one year after Ohio had attained statehood), at the age of 21. After studying law for six months (there were apparently a lot fewer laws back then), he established a law practice.
 

Concurrent with his legal work, Longworth made shrewd investments in land, beginning in 1820. These real estate investments permitted Longworth to indulge in a new passion for horticulture and viticulture, pursuing the latter as a hobby as he began to plant vines along the Ohio River. 

His first attempts were with vitis vinifera, which, having been planted prior to the discovery of phylloxera, not surprisingly died shortly thereafter. Longworth then tried his hand at the American species, vitis labrusca. Specifically, he became interested in the Catawba grape (native to North Carolina), which was hearty enough to withstand the harsh winters of Ohio, planting these vines in 1825. He produced his first wine three years later, declared himself satisfied and subsequently quit his law practice, eventually crafting a sparkling version of his beloved Catawba.

But fortunately, Nicholas wasn’t the only one who admired his slightly sweet, sparkling wines. His wine was enjoyed not only throughout the United States, but also abroad in England and France. It was further lauded by poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow who immortalized Longworth’s wine in his, “Ode to Catawba” published during the 1850s.

Longworth’s success eventually established him as the “wealthiest man in Ohio.” In fact, “…in 1850 his taxes rated higher than any other man in the United States except William B. Astor…” at an annual bill of $17,000 and, at his death, his wealth was estimated to be $15 million. (Harper’s Weekly)

In addition to being an accomplished wine producer, Longworth was a generous person and used his wealth to help others in his community. He provided work for those in need; built housing above his wine cellars for indigent laborers; and distributed bread to the hungry from his home every Monday morning.

Longworth’s efforts also helped to cement Ohio as a key winegrowing area in the United States. By 1860, Longworth had 3,000 acres of vines and was producing 570,000 gallons of wine, annually bottling 150,000 bottles. During this period, Ohio led the nation in the production of wine, supplying one-third of the nation’s wine and out-producing California by two to one. However, this boom was short-lived as Ohio wine production declined in both the wake of viticultural disease and a loss of labor as Ohioans left to fight in the Civil War.

Yet Ohio was not alone in its pursuit of bubbles. In 1855, Benjamin Davis Wilson, who was to become the first mayor of Los Angeles, was the first to produce a sparkling wine in California. And, across the country, a “champagne” industry was started in Hammondsport in New York’s Finger Lakes region in 1860. Crafting sparklers from Delaware, Iona, Elvira and Catawba grapes, the Pleasant Valley and Taylor Wine Companies set about to establish “American champagne [as] the leading wine of the region.” (Reichl, 14) 

While most of this early success with sparkling wine was brought to an end in the 1920s as America pursued Prohibition, by 1933, “[t]he few surviving Eastern wineries, principally sparkling-wine producers of New York State [namely Great Western and Gold Seal], soon found their bearings again.” (Wagner, 61)

And, only a few decades later, a renaissance would take place, with Jack and Jamie Davies re-establishing a winery at the old Schramsburg estate in Napa Valley, CA. With a focus on quality, not quantity, the Davies’ produced a Blanc de Blancs, which they released in 1967, becoming “America’s first commercially produced Chardonnay-based brut sparkling wine.” (Sawyer) Schramsburg’s reputation was assured when, in 1972, their sparkling wine was poured at the “Toast to Peace” dinner with President Nixon and Premier Chou En-lai in Bejing, China. Their wines have been poured in the White House ever since.

Today, sparkling wine is produced in all fifty states, and, while many of these producers are local in scope, leading American sparklers are found in California, Oregon, New York, Virginia, New Mexico, Pennsylvania, Delaware and Massachusetts, and are often national and even international in their reach. Here, many serious winemakers are crafting world-class wines utilizing the Traditional Method of production, with ultra-premium producers focused on estate-grown grapes and the production of vintage-dated wines.

Harper’s Weekly Journal of Civilization, Nicholas Longworth Obituary, published 3/7/1863.

Reichel, Ruth ed., History in a Glass: Sixty Years of Wine Writing from Gourmet. Random House: New York, 2006 [Frank Schoonmaker, Return to the Native, p. 14]

Sawyer, Christopher. “The Best of Both Worlds.” The tasting panel, December 2009.

Wagner, Philip M.  Grapes Into Wine, Knopf Press, 1976

  
  

Producer Profiles

Biltmore Estate
Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina is “the most visited winery in the United States,” seeing one million visitors annually. The 125,000 acre estate is the site of George Vanderbilt (grandson of Cornelius)’s dream home designed by noted architect Richard Morris Hunt. The Château Reserve Blanc de Blancs is 100% Chardonnay from fruit sourced throughout North Carolina and is aged 24-30 months before disgorging.

Chateau Frank
In 1962, Dr. Konstantin Frank established Vinifera Wine Cellars in Hammondsport, New York and earned a reputation for his Rieslings and “champagnes.” The 1999 Prestige Cuvee is made with 100% estate-grown fruit, a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier and then aged for more than five years. 

Gruet Winery
The Gruet family of Champagne, France established their Albuquerque, NM winery in 1984. The 2004 Blanc de Blancs remained en tirage for a minimum of four years with the last bottles reaching anywhere up to five years.

Iron Horse Vineyards
When Iron Horse’s founding partners, Audrey and Barry Sterling, first saw the 300 acre property in 1976, it was the most westerly vineyard in Sonoma, but the Sterlings knew they wanted to grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and that this was the perfect climate in which to do so. The 2005 Classic Vintage Brut is among the most traditional of their sparklers, made from 25% Chardonnay and 75% Pinot Noir and aged for three years. 

Kluge Estate
Kluge Estate was established in 1999 in Carter’s Mountain on the edge of Blue Ridge Mountains in Charlottesville, VA by Patricia Kluge whose dream was to build a wine region. The 2007 SP Rosé, made from 95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir, was aged for 21-24 months and won at the Monticello Cup in 2010 and took home Silver medals at both the San Diego Wine & Spirits National Women’s Wine Competitions.
 

L. Mawby
Larry Mawby planted vines on Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula in 1973, with his first harvest in 1978. His Talismon is made from estate grown fruit picked as a field blend of Vignoles, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay.

Soter Vineyards
Although he is more known for his Pinot Noirs, Tony Soter chose to make a sparkler because he is a “sucker for a winegrowing challenge.” Produced from 100% estate grown fruit, the Soter Rosé is a 50-50% blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and spent at least three years on the lees.
 


Troutman Vineyards
Building on Ohio’s wine legacy, Deanna and Andy Troutman established Troutman Vineyards in 1997. Their Cuveé D, a brut style sparkler made from hybrid variety, Vidal Blanc, won a Bronze Medal at the 2009 Ohio Wine Competition in the Hybrid Sparkling Wine category. 

Grand Cru Grapevine: All in the Family (September 2010)

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September 2010

Summer has not yet quite finished out its tenure, but the 2010 harvest is already in full swing. Having been spared from the potentially devastating Hurricane Earl, many of the white grapes have begun to be picked and brought into the winery, while the red grapes will remain to finish ripening for a few more weeks.

Right on cue, the East End’s first HARVEST Wine Auction & Celebration will take place on September 24-25, 2010. As a reminder, Grand Cru Classes will offer its “From Mystery to Mastery” class through the Wine Salon as part of this two-day event.

The HARVEST event and the actual harvest signal autumn’s impending return, which also finds children returning to school this month and answering the age old question of what they did on their summer vacations. With family stories in mind, this month we look at the Concannon Family and its history.

And, we encourage you to return to school this fall as well…wine school that is. Tracy will reprise her Sex, Wine & Chocolate event on October 5, 2010 with nationally recognized sex coach and certified sexuality educator, Amy Levine, at the amazing Coco de Mer erotica and lingerie store. Savor every sip, taste and touch more fully through this decadent tasting of wine paired with Bond Street chocolates, which integrates a unique look at the intersection of these three joys in life. Call the store at 212-966-9069 to reserve your spot.

For tamer, but equally wine savvy, classes, turn to Tracy’s classes, which will be offered NYU’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies. She is also teaching the WSET Intermediate Certificate at the International Wine Center on Mondays, starting October 18, 2010.

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

All in the Family

Two Generations of the Concannon Family

I first met the Concannon family in a grocery store in California. No, I didn’t have the pleasure of meeting a member of the family, that came later, but yes, you can actually buy wine at the same time that you stock up on those other staples in life – milk, bread, cereal and ice cream – at the supermarket in some states. Rather, a family vacation had brought by parents, sister and I to San Diego and we were browsing the wine aisle in search of an inexpensive wine to enjoy with dinner. I’m not sure what drew us to the Concannons, but we picked up the bottle, placed it in the cart along with a rotisserie chicken and sides and headed back to our studio room at the hotel. We were not disappointed.

This past summer, I actually had the opportunity to meet John Concannon, the fourth generation of Concannons to run his family business, for dinner at Brasserie Ruhlmann, with his wines poured throughout the meal. I was very impressed with John and the wines, both of which were (food)-friendly and approachable. Over the course of dinner, John shared his family’s history with me, further adding to my appreciation of Concannon.

In addition to having wine in their blood, the Concannon family is also proud of its Irish heritage, with founder James Concannon becoming the first Irish immigrant to establish a winery in the U.S. John owes his family’s legacy to Great Grandmother Ellen who devised to keep her husband closer to home. Born on St. Patrick’s Day, James initially moved to the U.S. and found work in the rubber stamp business, but his wife, Ellen, insisted he stay in the area and make wine for the church instead. Following his wife’s advice, James bought 47 acres of land in California’s Livermore Valley and planted vines in 1883.

Building on their lengthy history, in the 1950s, the family was the first to hire a female winemaker. And, in 1961, the Concannons celebrated both the arrival of John and the launch of America’s first varietally-labeled Petite Sirah. Today, Concannon is the oldest, continuing operating U.S. winery under the same family and heralds its 127th harvest this year. John’s niece, Shannon, is already eagerly asking her dad questions about the wine business, ready to take the helm of her family’s venture, although it is expected that she will at least complete grammar school before doing so.

While Concannon’s Reserve and Heritage wines are only available at the winery, two other tiers of Concannon wines are widely available:

  • Concannon Selected Vineyards – grapes sourced from California’s Central Coast; $10.00 and under
  • Concannon Limited Release – comparable to the winery’s Reserve wines; includes the Conservancy wines, which are sourced from Livermore Valley vineyards that have been preserved as agricultural land in perpetuity; $15.00

Tasting Notes

Concannon Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $10.00
Mildly aromatic with aromas of grapefruit and lime, this wine is dry, with restrained fruit flavors of grapefruit, lime, citrus pith and stone, anchored with vibrant acidity.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Chardonnay 2008, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Aged in French and American oak barrels, the nose is greeted with slight toast and nut notes, along with melon. The dry palate presents with medium+ acidity and flavors of melon, citrus, mineral and noticeable, but well-integrated oak. It paired beautifully with a blue crab salad.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Merlot 2007, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Sourced from a cool area, this Merlot is bright and fruity with aromas of plum, cherry and herbs. Medium acidity and medium tannins join the dry palate, which offers black cherry and leafy notes.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Produced from 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Syrah, this wine is dry, with medium acid, full body and medium, ripe tannins. Aromas and flavors of blueberry and spice are joined with a hint of dark cocoa.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Petite Sirah 2007, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Deep aromas of blackberry, smoke herald this dry wine, which has medium acidity, a full body, and notes of blackberry, smoke and oak wrapped around finely-grained tannins.

Captain, My Captain

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Each year, the American Wine Society (AWS) sponsors two wine competitions recognizing both amateur and commercial winemaking. The wines are judged in Pittsburgh with extra bottles of wine sent to be informally evaluated at the annual conference in a mock competition. At conference, tables are staffed by volunteers who are wine judges, graduates of the Wine Judging Training Program (WJTP) and/or those currently in the program. These table captains are to lead their table members in an evaluation of the wines. Since I had just began the WJTP, I volunteered to be a table captain.

Called up to the front of the room, each table captain had to grab an unmarked box of wine and returned to his/her table. Mine was a flight of Chardonnays. After carefully reading the instructions, and opening the wines, I waited until the participants entered the room and my table was filled. In all, there were five of us at my table, representing one of about 20 tables altogether.

I welcomed the group and explained how a wine competition was run and what they should do this afternoon. Once everyone was fully briefed, we began to pour samples of the first five wines into our glasses, passing each bottle onto the next person. The next step was to begin tasting/evaluating and scoring using the AWS 20-point format. After everyone had completed this process, I asked each person for the total score on each wine, before we discussed each wine on its own. The first wine’s scores ranged from 10 to 16. One person continued to be an outlier at the low end throughout the scoring process. The following bottle seemed to be flawed and our scores reflected it. We continued to taste through bottles 3, 4 and 5 in the same manner. Dumping out wines 1 through 5 (we only had 5 glasses each), we then poured and tasted wines 6 and 7, following the same procedures. We agreed that our bottle of wine 6 was faulted and chose not to score it. At the end, the official scores were unearthed from the envelope and we compared our average scores with the judges.

Here is how our scores compared:
Wine 1 – 13.7 (Us) vs. 14.0 (official judges)
Wine 2 – 10.3 vs. 14.17
Wine 3 – 11.7 vs.12.0
Wine 4 – 12.3 vs.11.83
Wine 5 – 14.2 vs.12.67
Wine 6 – Not scored vs. 8.67
Wine 7 – 14.7 vs.16.0

As evidenced from the above comparison, while our scores didn’t fully match the official judging, we were relatively close with the exception of Wine 2, for which there may have been a problem with our bottle since we felt it was flawed. 

All in all, I thought it was a very interesting and instructive exercise and look forward to volunteering again in November 2010.