Grand Cru Grapevine: Do you speak wine label? (July 2009)

Among my many goals in life is to become fluent in French. Yet, sometimes even when you speak/read the same language, it can still be difficult to translate the precise meaning of the words in front of you. If this sounds like you in the wine store, this month’s newsletter will help you become bilingual — you’ll learn how to speak wine label.

In the same vein of continuing education, Tracy will head to Sacramento later this month for the Society of Wine Educators (SWE) annual conference. Arriving prior to the start of the main conference activities, she will co-facilitate the society’s Certified Wine Educator Preview course, before immersing herself in three full days of wine seminars.

Grand Cru Classes proctored SWE’s first level exam – the Certified Specialist of Wine – this past April. The self-tutorial course is appropriate for both enthusiasts and wine trade, alike. We may schedule future test dates at our Mattituck facility, so if you have an interest in sitting for this exam, please let us know.

Finally, we are thrilled to announce the launch of two new classes. Where the Bargains Are: The Best Wines for the Budget-Conscious will join our class schedule in August and All that Glitters is not Champagne, which will focus on bargain bubblies, will debut in October, just in time for holiday party planning.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

DO YOU SPEAK WINE LABEL?

Wandering through the wine store’s aisles, a wombat stares at you from the shelf. You stare back. You wonder what the furry critter has to do with wine, but he keeps staring and is, in fact, quite cute. You decide to take him (and the bottle) home. Besides, you really don’t know what all of the other text on the label is really telling you, so why not choose a wine by its label? Admittedly, wine labels can indeed be quite confusing if you don’t know what to look for. However, with this simple tutorial, you can easily crack their code. 

What’s in a name?
First, we’ll start with the front label, which usually includes the name of the producer, name of the wine (if applicable)/grape variety, vintage and origin. The name of the producer is generally synonymous with the brand, i.e. Kendall-Jackson. If the wine contains a minimum of 75% of one particular grape (with higher percentages required in Oregon and the EU), the grape variety may be named on the label. If the respective minimum is not met, such as the case with wines blended from several different grapes, a wine may have a fantasy name, i.e. Insignia (from producer Joseph Phelps), which is simply a made-up name used to differentiate or designate a given wine. 

A vintage year
The vintage refers to the year in which the grapes were harvested, which may not the year the wine is released. If grapes from multiple harvests are blended together, the wine is considered to be non-vintage, usually abbreviated NV. This is very common in Champagne and Port, where vintages are only declared in great years.

I come from a land down under
Another important piece of information is its appellation of origin – the name of the place where the grapes were grown. Depending upon how large a net was cast, so to speak, the origin can be as big as a single country or as small as a named vineyard (which will also include the area in which the vineyard is located). In the U.S., our officially recognized wine regions are known as American Viticultural Areas (AVAs for short). In order to use a particular appellation of origin, a required minimum percentage of the grapes must come from that country, state or county (and their foreign equivalents). A higher proportion of grapes from a particular AVA is required to use the name of the AVA on the label.

I guarantee it
If a wine is labeled as Estate Bottled, 100% of the grapes were grown on land owned or controlled by the producer and located within a viticultural area and the wine was wholly made on the producer’s premises, which must lie within the same viticultural area as the grapes.

The rub with alcohol
Also on the label is the alcohol content, expressed as alcohol by volume. There are an increasing number of high (above 13.5%) alcohol wines on the market (frequently due to higher ripeness levels at harvest), and with slight fluctuations permitted, actual alcohol levels in that 15.5% labeled wine might really be closer to 16%. This may account for why the same one glass of wine with dinner now knocks you out.

Over there
In Europe, winemaking is a much older, more established art. Consequently, wines are entrenched in their particular regions and must adhere to strict laws, which permit what they can do and restrict what they can’t. Deviations from these laws mean that the wine in question may no longer be labeled as a quality wine, but rather as a table wine. Quality wines are labeled with the origin of appellation, but do not generally feature the grape varieties on the label, although this addition seems to be changing, at least for wines bottled for the U.S. Therefore, these wines are a bit more difficult to decipher if you are not familiar with the grape varieties and/or wine styles in that region. All the more reason to find a good local wine store and ask questions (or take a wine class with us). 

Now that you know how to read a wine label, you’ll be able to make a more informed decision about buying that wombat.

Tasting Notes

Some warm weather wines to cool you off this summer.

Badger Mountain Vineyards Pure White NV, Columbia Valley, WA, USA, $22.00 (3 liter)
An organic white in a box, this blend of 60% Semillon and 40% Muller-Thurgau has a very floral nose followed by a clean and citrus medium-bodied palate with a hint of herbal character.

Frederic Mallo Selections, Pinot Blanc “Special Delivery”, 2006, Alsace, France, $12.99
This slightly off-dry wine has lots of ripe, peach notes with a medium-full body and nice minerality.

Volteo, Viura + Viognier 2008, Vinho de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain, $9.00
A blend of Viura and Viognier, along with some Sauvignon Blanc, this easy-quaffing wine provides youthful aromas of citrus and tropical fruit, while the dry palate has flavors of citrus, peach and peach pit.

Domaine Spiropoulos Meliasto 2008, Peloponnese, Greece, $12.99
This dry rose hails from mainland Greece and is comprised of 70% of the indigenous Moschofilero grape. Almost Gewurztraminer-like on the nose, the wine presents with aromas of spice, lychee and floral, which are followed by similar flavors on the palate, culminating in a long length.

Orleans Hill, Zinfandel 2007, Amador County, CA, USA, $9.95
This sulfite-free, organic wine has bright berry aromas with a medium+ body and notes of raspberry and earth, along with an herbal undercurrent.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Back to the Futures (June 2009)

In the film, Back to the Future, Marty McFly heads to the past (1955 to be exact), but must travel back to the future (1985) to avoid tampering with history. Conversely, the Bordelais winemakers constantly look to the future – the future of their wine – on the open market. Like other commodities, understanding wine futures can be somewhat complicated, so we endeavor to explain the annual en primeur campaign, as it is known, which kicks off this month.

Firmly rooted in the present, Grand Cru Classes has just returned from a fabulous trip to Oregon’s Willamette Valley. It was a wonderful weekend of Pinot Noir, with visits to a number of wineries, most notably Willakenzie Estate and Anne Amie. If you have the opportunity to visit this wine region, we highly recommend it.

However, if you are staying closer to home these days, why not visit the wineries out on the North Fork of Long Island, stopping by to take a class with us before hitting the tasting rooms? Our Long Island Wines: From Potatoes to Parker Points is a terrific overview to the region’s history, while our From Vine to Wine class serves as a solid foundation of wine knowledge. Please visit our website for a full schedule of public classes. Alternately, let us bring our Personal Wine Party or other wine event to your home, office or other venue of your choosing.

And, for wine updates in between our monthly newsletters, sign up for email alerts for Tracy’s NY Wine Shopping Examiner column on Examiner.com.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

BACK TO THE FUTURES

Would a clothing manufacturer create a new fashion line and then hold it in a warehouse for over a year, taking up costly space and not producing revenue? Of course not. It seems like such a foolish business model, but that is exactly what happens with most wineries. Grapes are harvested in Year X, but many wines, especially reds, aren’t bottled and released until Year X+2 (or even longer in some cases). Accordingly, wineries must wait several years before they can realize income on a given vintage.

In an effort to increase cash flow during this waiting period while the wines mature in barrel, France’s Bordeaux region adopted the practice of selling futures. Wine merchants are invited to taste barrel samples, a full year before release and then purchase them ahead of time. Like any investment, it is not without some inherent risks – the wines will change over the course of the year, prices may go down, currencies fluctuate, etc. Yet, the potential rewards are securing highly coveted wines before they are sold out and possibly at a lower price than when they are released.

Each April, merchants and journalists descend upon Bordeaux to taste the wines, with prices set by the producers (aka the chateaux) several months later. In the meantime, the critics make their pronouncement on the overall quality of the vintage and publish tasting notes and scores on individual wines. As with other wine ratings, these can often make or break a futures campaign and will also impact pricing. The “blue chip” wines are generally those that were classified (Grand Cru Classé) in 1855, but many other producers have established reputations as well and consequently command high prices for their wines.

The Bordeaux futures campaign kicks off sales to consumers in June, with some of the large retail stores offering a selection of wines from the vintage – in this case 2008, which has been well regarded by wine journalists (but not extolled). Wines ordered now will be delivered in the latter half of 2011. While some have suggested that there is no need to buy futures this year, if you do choose to purchase Bordeaux futures, it is extremely important to find a reputable merchant to ensure that you will indeed receive your wines; scams in this arena are not uncommon. And, unless you are Marty McFly, you will have difficulty going back to 2009 to undo your purchase.

Tasting Notes

Château Bonnet, Bordeaux Blanc 2007, Entre-Deux-Mers, France, $10.00
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle (50%, 40% and 10%, respectively), this wine provides youthful aromas of lemon, hay, apple and slight yeast. With vibrant acidity, the palate has flavors of lime, grapefruit and stone.

Château Bellevue, Bordeaux, 2005, Médoc, France, $15.00
From the much-hyped 2005 vintage, this is an affordable option. On the nose, the wine displays youthful aromas of black currant, tobacco leaf and eucalyptus. Its medium+ tannins are ripe and balance well with flavors of blackberry, currant, oak and graphite, ending with very long length.

Château Moulin de Lagnet 2004, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, France, $30.00
Overshadowed by the great 2000 and 2005 vintages, 2004 provides good value. This wine hails from St. Emilion on the right bank of Bordeaux. Consequently, it is heavily dominated by Merlot with aromas and flavors of plum, cherry and some herbal/earthy notes. 

Château Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville 2003, Pauillac, France, $85.00
The 2003 vintage was the year of the summer heat wave that swept across Europe, hitting record highs. Despite the unusual climatic conditions, this wine has developed nicely, showing concentrated red and black fruits and heavy, but ripe, tannins. 

Château Montrose 1971, St. Estephe, France, $90.00
With a complex nose showing aromas of currant, raspberry and strawberry, joined by notes of floral, grass and dried herbs, this wine has aged beautifully. On the palate, there is dried plum, strawberry, black currant and some slight oak and spice.
NB: This chateau’s second wine is La Dame de Montrose, which retails for about $25.00 for the 2007 vintage.

A critic or a critique

hpim2295As a wine educator, I truly love to teach and am passionate about wine – its complexity, nuances and the connection to the earth it provides. Consequently, I use my blog primarily to inform and educate about wine, as an adjunct to my teaching. While I don’t think that someone needs to know everything there is about wine to enjoy it, I do think that knowledge, even in small doses, enhances one’s enjoyment of this unique beverage.

In adding to one’s knowledge, I feel that it is useful for a wine educator to talk about specific wines in the context of wine education. However, I feel that as an educator and journalist, my review of a specific wine should be impartial. To that end, my descriptions of wines are intended to be non-judgmental and simply provide the reader or student with the opportunity to learn more about the qualities of a given wine and then make his or her decision about whether or not they might wish to taste it themselves. We all have different preferences, which are equally valid, so a clear and accurate description of the wine should be beneficial to the consumer, rather than trying to dictate whether a person should like a given wine just because of the writer’s preference.

Moreover, preferences are just that — preferences. They are not necessarily an indication of quality or a lack thereof.   Further, if my preference for a given wine isn’t the same as the producer’s, I am free to find another wine to drink. Therefore, I don’t think that it is my place to tell a winemaker how to make his or her wine. Given that I am a wine professional, I do think that I have a responsibility to point out poor winemaking – not my preferences for a particular wine style, but rather those elements that can be empirically determined such as unbalanced alcohol (as opposed to criticizing a winemaker for a wine with high alcohol) or an otherwise flawed wine. But, beyond that, I don’t feel that it is my place to arbitrarily prescribe winemaking techniques.

Today, there is a proliferation of wine regions and wineries, providing consumers with the luxury to find wines that span a wide range of styles and price ranges. Within a given wine region, there will be many styles. For example, in a recent Decanter article on Brunello di Montalcino, one producer noted that there was room for both a traditional and a modern style of Brunello. Even within the same winery, with the same winemaker, there will be differences among the wines that appeal to one and not another. As a case in point, at a recent visit to Jaffurs winery in Santa Barbara, I had the opportunity to taste through a number of its wines. Among the selection were two single-vineyard Syrahs – Bien Nacido Vineyard and Thompson Vineyard, both from the 2006 vintage. The Thompson Vineyard Syrah was fruit-forward in style with notes of blackberry, chocolate/cocoa, berry and spice. Conversely, the Bien Nacido offering was much less fruit-driven and presented with decidedly secondary aromas and flavors of earth, leather, berry and a hint of spice. Each retailed for $38.00.

For some consumers, the Thompson Vineyard wine will be more to their liking while the Bien Nacido may be preferable to others; different people may like both wines and still others may not like Syrah at all or may only drink Syrahs from France. Did I have a preference? Yes, but does it really matter? Were I to voice an opinion, I would become a critic, but, as an educator, I wish only to offer a useful critique. In this regard, I feel that it is my responsibility to accurately communicate what is in the glass and leave the decision-making up to the consumer. My preference for one or the other isn’t valuable to my students or to the winemaker. Of more value, I can use the two wine descriptions to talk about the influence of the specific terroir (each of the named vineyards) and, more generally, the differences in climate, which may account for the flavor differences in the two wines.

With this in mind, one of the interesting things about wine is that it is both a natural product and a man-made one. From budbreak to harvest, it is essentially up to Mother Nature to determine the outcome of a given harvest. Yet, humans have the ability to manipulate the vineyard such as through amendments to the soil, irrigation in the absence of rain, and both natural and chemical means to control mildew. Then, more directly, once the grapes have been harvested, it is up to the winemaker and his/her team to decide what winemaking techniques to consider. Should they employ stainless steel or oak? How long should the maceration last? In Europe, many of these decisions are more regulated than in the New World (i.e. the Americas, New Zealand, Australia and South Africa), but they do exist to some extent.

Accordingly, as an artisan product, the winemaker must be a grape whisperer – listening to what the grapes are telling him or her to do. Some winemakers are more hands-off than hands-on, but may need to intercede in more difficult years. With experience, knowledge and preferences guiding the winemaker, he or she endeavors to make the best wine they can. Once the wine has been made, it is the reviewer’s job to accurately describe the wine and leave winemaking decisions up to the winemaker. It is easy to be an armchair quarterback, but as I wasn’t in the vineyard or the winery encountering various conditions and challenges, it is not my place to tell the winemaker how s/he should make their wine. And, of course, I certainly wouldn’t want a winemaker telling me how to write.

A Wine Soaked Week

003The last week of April was filled with wonderful wine. I kicked off the week at the Wine Media Guild’s monthly luncheon. This Tale of Two Pichons featured a matched, vertical tasting of Chateau Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville (aka Pichon-Baron) and Chateau Pichon Lonagueville Comtesse de Lalande (aka Pichon-Lalande). These highly acclaimed Bordeaux wines were accompanied by a sumptuous meal at Felidia.

Christian Seely, Manager of all AXA-Millseimes properties (which includes Pichon-Baron) was joined by Gildas d’Ollone, Managing Director of Pichon-Lalande, in enlightening us about these two properties and their resulting wines. Much discussion about the cepages (blend) and weather patterns of each year ensued, with both men noting the importance of ripeness and yields.

The Longueville property was initially one large parcel, but upon the marriage of the Baron’s daughter, it was split into two separate properties as part of her dowery. In 1978, Giladas’ aunt purchased the Pichon-Lalande property, which she sold to Roederer in 2007. Pichon-Baron is presently owned by AXA-Millisime.

As usual, the first part of the event featured a walk-around tasting. Given the day’s theme, the luncheon was particularly crowded and included some luminary members and guests that rarely attend. Consequently, I chose not to take detailed notes during the tasting but rather, to simply enjoy the wines. We began with the 2000 vintage, which was lauded as one of the top vintages in Bordeaux, until 2005 arrived. Overall, I found the 2000’s to be quite amazing and felt that the 2005’s needed additional time to mature. I was also surprised that the 2003’s (the hot vintage) were as good as they were. Generally, it was interesting to taste each wine from the same vintage and see how the two differed. Similarly, it was great to see how the same wine changed from vintage to vintage. In some vintages, I preferred Pichon-Baron, while the Pichon-Lalande was my favorite in others. During the actual lunch, the 1985, 1989 and 1975 (the latter in double magnum) Pichon-Lalandes were served as were the 1989 and 1990 Pichon-Barons. The 1975 Pichon-Lalande was incredibly bright and lively for its age.

After lunch, many of the attendees headed over to the Four Seasons restaurant to attend a preview tasting of the recently declared 2007 vintage for Port. Event participants included properties from the Fladgate Partnership, Symington Family Estates and Quinta do Noval. I briefly tasted through a few of the 2007s, noticing their richness, coupled with chocolate and berries. A selection of older Ports was also available to taste, of which I particularly liked the very concentrated Smith Woodhouse 1977, the mellowness of the Graham 1970 and the luscious bramble fruit of the Dow 1980.

The following evening found me at Grape & Grain wine bar in the East Village, meeting up with a friend from out of town. The by-the-glass list was surprisingly heavy on Spanish wines, but also had a selection of others. We weren’t very hungry, so we simply ordered a white bean dip accompanied by spicy pita chips. My initial glass of wine, a white blend of Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Chardonnay, seemed somewhat oxidized, but as many traditional white Spanish wines have this characteristic, I ignored it. However, when my husband arrived later on, he brought it to the server’s attention who expressed surprise, having not encountered it in that wine before. Consequently, he opened a second bottle, which had the same oxidized note and then a third, which didn’t, before pouring me a new glass of wine. The bar also carries a selection of beers in hommage to the “grain” in its name.

My next major interaction with wine didn’t occur until the end of the week, but it was quite major. Grand Cru Classes hosted the Saturday night dinner for TasteCamp East in its Tuscan-inspired tasting classroom. Participants had been asked to bring a bottle of wine, especially one from their home state/local wine region. Many attendees took this a step further and arrived with a full case. Consequently, with 30+ people in the room, there was a sea of wine. The diversity of wines present was quite astounding with fruit-based wines sharing the table with the likes of Duckhorn. All in all, it was an extremely fun evening and we enjoyed meeting and, in some instances, re-acquainting ourselves with, the bloggers.

We woke up Sunday morning with a fair amount of cleaning up to do.  All told, we ended up opening over 30 bottles of wine, with many unopened bottles taken home and a just few left behind. It truly had been a wine-soaked week.

A new organic wine hits the market – the Pinot Grigio to feel good about

Harvest at CollaviniFriulian wine producer, Collavini, has introduced a new Pinot Grigio, produced from organic grapes. The family-owned and operated winery has been in existence since 1896 and is currently run by Manlio Collavinin, along with his sons Luigi and Giovanni. Wife, Anna, manages public relations for the company.

In addition to being an organic wine, several environmentally-friendly measures have been taken in connection with the wine. More specifically, the bottle itself is made of recycled glass and may be recycled yet again. Sealed with a natural cork, the closure is also recyclable. Related packaging such as the wine shipper and its partitions, was produced from recycled materials, most of which is fully recyclable as well.

Made entirely from Pinot Grigio, the (ICEA) certified organic grapes are grown in the Venezie region, with adherence to organic practices and eschewing man-made fertilizers and pesticides. The winemaking process is not certified organic, but care was taken to follow traditional winemaking practices with minimal handling of the fruit.

Collavini Pinot Grigio 2008
IGT Delle Venezie
$13.99 SRP
This wine has a clean nose of floral, lemon and slight stone aromas. On the palate, it is dry with lively acidity and a relatively light body. Flavors of lemon, stone and tangerine persist throughout the wine’s medium+ length. The high acidity permitted this wine to pair nicely with fried food, cutting through the grease and cleansing the palate between bites.

California wine is not just for dummies – book review

I was delighted to have the opportunity to review the newly released California Wine for Dummies book by Ed McCarthy and Mary Ewing-Mulligan since the pair are so well respected as writers and educators.

However, I admit to a certain negative bias given that it was part of the “for Dummies” series. I had never read any of the “for Dummies” books previously distaining the assumption that a lack of knowledge on the subject made one a dummy. Moreover, I think it is somewhat insulting to address people in this manner. Accordingly, upon receiving the book, when I read the book in public (i.e. on the subway), I found myself wishing that it had been prominently marked as a “Review” copy.

Despite my predisposition toward the book, I was pleasantly surprised at its quality given the format and premise.

Ed and Mary have a great sense of humor and forthright approach, both of which are infused throughout the book. The book is really well designed with a series of icons that permits the reader to easily navigate each chapter in search of the desired information.

The book is great as a reference on California wines, but would also be useful as an adjunct to other travel resources, when planning a trip to a particular California wine region. It may also be of assistance with wine purchases with Ed and Mary’s lists of reliable wines for each grape variety and within various price bands.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Closure Disclosure (May 2009)

We are recently back from a trip to Santa Barbara, which is an absolutely lovely place to travel. We were fortunate to visit numerous vineyards and wineries and tasted some fabulous wines.

If you’d like to taste some fabulous wines, while improving your wine knowledge, join us for one of our classes. Our public schedule kicks off this month, with classes held on Saturdays and Sundays. As always, we are available for both personal and corporate private events as well.

We hope you have been enjoying Tracy’s NY Wine Shopping Examiner column on Examiner.com. If you haven’t checked it out yet, be sure to catch up with all of her articles online. Again, suggestions and ideas for articles are always welcome!

You can also catch Tracy’s latest Words of Winedom column, at Big Blend magazine, and/or hear her on Big Blend’s Eat, Drink & Be Merry radio show on Monday, May 11, 2009 at 7:10 PM (EST).

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

CLOSURE DISCLOSURE: CORKED, CAPPED OR SCREWED?

As oxygen is wine’s Kryptonite, sealing a bottle of wine is important. Traditionally, cork, derived from the bark of cork trees, has been the method of choice for wine closures for centuries. However, recent failure rates for cork, reports of which range from 2-12%, are no longer deemed acceptable. The primary failure in question is that of cork taint, caused by a reaction of the Trichloranisole (TCA) bacteria with chlorine/chlorinated-compounds. This negative reaction begins on the surface of the cork and then spreads to the wine itself, rendering it undrinkable and smelling like my wet, moldy basement (or anyone’s wet, moldy basement for that matter). As alternatives, the wine industry has turned to screw caps and crown caps among other products. NB: Crown caps are used for sparkling wines, while screw caps are found on still wines. 

While many people historically associate screw caps with less expensive wines, their use in fine wines is becoming more prevalent. Notably, as of 2006, 90% of all wine made in New Zealand is bottled under a screw cap or crown cap. Australia lags behind, but is still ahead of most countries with its screw cap adoption. In the U.S., consumers have been somewhat slower to demand alternate closures than their Southern hemisphere counterparts, but some of the higher end producers are beginning to make the switch.

The technology has evolved dramatically, especially over the last two years, making these closure choices near perfect. They seem to overcome issues of cork taint, oxidation (spoilage by contact with O2) and reduction (off-flavors from a lack of O2). However, they are not without their critics, with some attributing health-risks with these closures (not well proven or documented). APCOR (the trade organization representing the cork industry) ran its own campaign to laud the advances made in cork technology to address its (former) failures. In fact, a new cork, DIAM, has been launched, which is virtually taint-free, but, quite expensive. Synthetic corks avoid issues with cork taint, but are thought to add a plastic aroma to the wine and can be extremely difficult to remove. Given the pros and cons of the various solutions, it is likely that this debate will continue throughout this decade.

In the meantime, it is clear that both traditional and alternate closures have their place in the market. The merits of one or the other aside, nothing can substitute for proper storage of your wine in order to preserve their quality. Expose your wine to light, heat and/or vibrations and you will be screwed, regardless of the closure on the bottle!

Tasting Notes

Frédéric Mallo, Pinot Gris “Special Delivery”, 2006, Alsace, France, $17.00 – CORK
From a fifth-generation, family-owned estate in Alsace, their Pinot Grigio remains in the tank for a longer period of time (up to one year before bottling) than several other of its wines, giving it a fuller body. It has notes of ripe citrus and pear fruit with clean minerality and long length.

Geyser Peak Chardonnay 2007, Alexander Valley, CA, $14.00 – SCREW CAP
Under the leadership of winemaker Mick Schroeter, Geyser Peak produces expressive wines. With aromas of butter, oak, vanilla, and apple, this wine is dry with medium acidity and flavors of apple, vanilla, (well-integrated) oak, and a slight hint of spice.

Wild Rock Vin Gris 2007, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, $7.00 – SCREW CAP
Deep salmon in color, this rosé has pronounced aromas of ripe strawberry, raspberry, floral and a slight candied note, which persist on the palate with great depth of flavor and fruit concentration. Made from a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah, it is medium bodied with long length.

Casa Santos Lima, Sousão, 2004, Estremadura, Portugal, $15.00 – CORK
Casa Santos Lima, located just north of Lisbon, is a relatively new winery, with its first wines produced in 1996. A porty nose of deep, dark berries gives way to a dry palate with good acidity, a full body, along with rich and ripe berry fruit and notes of chocolate/cocoa. 

Errazuriz, Merlot, 2006, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, $10.00 – SCREW CAP
While only some vineyards of the Errazuriz estate are certified organic, owner Eduardo Chadwick has been adopting these principles throughout his vineyards. With notes of plums, cherries and oak, the 2006 Merlot is blend of 85% Merlot, 11% Carmenere and 4% Sangiovese, with 50% of the wine aged for six months in a combination of American and French oak.

Keep them laughing: My debut in stand-up comedy at Comix

photo_112208_001As a wine educator, I am a teacher, coach, mentor and performer, all rolled into one. I strive to ensure that my students truly learn about wine, while having a great time doing so. I want them to overcome any obstacles and to begin to really appreciate all of the nuances involved.
Accordingly, I constantly strive to improve my presentation skills, along with my pedagogical approach. Over the years, I have been fortunate to receive some great presentation skills training and I am a confident public speaker as a result. However, I know that while I enjoy wine very much, parts of it can be overwhelming, confusing or just plain boring. So, I sought out a way to solve this issue.

Accordingly, last fall, I enrolled in a stand-up comedy class. While I had never considered myself to be the funniest person, I thought that I had a great sense of humor that occasionally shone through. Apparently not.

When I told my mother that I was taking the class, her immediate response was, “You know you’re not funny, right?” My sister was a little less harsh in her reaction, but was equally surprised by my decision to study stand-up and was considerably anxious about my performance. But, I chose to ignore their concerns.

The class ran for three hours a week for five weeks and was expertly facilitated by the comedianne Cory Kahaney.  At each class meeting, including the very first, participants were instructed to present a comedic set to the instructor and class, both of which would provide constructive feedback.

In between classes, we were writing new material and would occasionally have a specific homework assignment such as writing a joke about our mother or using a particular format such as a switch joke. Just as in a regular class, we were required to demonstrate that we had done the assignment; the only difference was that we had to tell our joke from the stage, rather than submit a piece of paper to the teacher.

We started off the sessions with a two-minute set. This eventually built to 5-6 minutes, which we aimed to perfect by the end of the last class meeting. Now was not the time to experiment or try new things.

A few weeks after the class ended, all of the students were scheduled to perform on stage at a prestigious comedy club in New York City — Comix. While it was a Saturday, it was a little less nerving to perform at 4:00 PM and instead of a room full of strangers, we were surrounded by our friends and family and those of our classmates. Accordingly, we had the benefit of an encouraging crowd.

I was scheduled to appear near the end of the show and waited nervously in the Green Room with fellow colleagues awaiting their turn. One by one, our classmates took the stage, performed their best and made the audience laugh. When my turn finally came, I stepped out onto the stage and was bathed by the brilliant lights. It was a heady moment. My husband and sister (who was clawing my husband since she was still so anxious about my lack of talent) were seated in front of the stage and, along with several other friends, were  a welcome sight, putting me further at ease.

I began my set and was rewarded with laughter. I continued on until I saw the red light in the back of the room indicating that my time was up. I wrapped up with my closing joke and took a bow. I had had an amazing time and was sorry that the time had passed so quickly!

I exited the stage and reunited with the dozen or so friends and family afterward, sharing in the moment.

While I do not anticipate performing entire comedy sets for my students, I do plan to utilize more humor into my teaching and finding ways to always make wine fun. And, when I get the chance, I find myself up on stage doing my 5 minutes for yet a new audience. I may not be funny, but my comedy seems to make people laugh.

See my set: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2601622325874714325&hl=en

Grand Cru Grapevine: More than Manichewitz (April 2009)

With Passover just ahead, many people might turn their thoughts to Kosher wines, so this month we explore some great alternatives to the usual plonk. It should be noted that these wines don’t need to be restricted to those who keep Kosher as they are wonderful wines in their own right and can just as easily grace the table for Easter, Tax Day or any other time.

Looking ahead for Grand Cru Classes, we will be launching our public classes next month, with the first class scheduled for Sunday, May 3, 2009, kicking off with our popular From Vine to Wine class at 2:00 PM. You can browse our full events listing or navigate using the calendar on the right side of our site. You may wish to note that, in recognition of the imperfect economy, we will be maintaining our 2008 prices for the 2009 season.

Among other exciting news, Tracy has been named the NY Wine Shopping Examiner for Examiner.com, which is currently the #285 website worldwide. She will be writing her column at least four times a week, on all things wine and retail related – secret shopper expeditions, event announcements, sniffing out sales and testing tools. Suggestions and ideas for articles are always welcome!

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

MORE THAN MANACHEWITZ

Unless one is an observant Jew, the choice of a Kosher wine doesn’t spring to mind except for once a year – Passover, which begins April 8th. F or years, Kosher wines had a deservedly bad reputation. Generally, one was stuck with the sickeningly sweet, Manichewitz Concord wine. But, fortunately, times have changed and many new Kosher wines have emerged as high quality wines that just happen to be Kosher. In fact, there is much more than Manichewitz showing up on retail shelves and they are definitely not wines that should be passed over.

Intuitively, people think of Israel when they think of Kosher wines, but this is a needlessly limited view. Rather, Kosher wines are being produced around the world from Australia and Chile to France and Italy. Regardless of where the wine is from, in order to be Kosher, the wine must be produced in accordance with Jewish dietary and other laws. Most specifically, Kosher wines must not be made with any animal products. For example, some wineries use egg whites to fine their wines, but as egg whites are a product of chickens, other fining agents, such as Bentonite, must be employed instead. 

In addition, the wine must be made under rabbinical supervision and handled solely by Sabbath-observing Jews throughout the entire winemaking process through to the point of service. In order to get around this latter point given the logistical issues it creates, some Kosher wines are heated to 185oF permitting non-Jews (or less observant Jews for that matter) to handle the wine without voiding it of its Kosher status. These wines are referred to as meshuval, which is the Hebrew word for cooked. Newer technology reduces the high heat exposure and consequently, is less likely to negatively impact the wine, as it had in the past, especially as this is frequently done prior to fermentation. Accordingly, today’s Kosher wines are indistinguishable from non-Kosher wines when it comes to the taste.

Tasting Notes

Covenant Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Napa Valley, CA (USA), $100.00
This is certainly a far cry from Concord Grape and if you choose to serve or bring this wine to a seder, please invite me! With grapes sourced from a rocky, three-acre parcel of land within the acclaimed Larkmead Vineyard, this wine has meaty, smoke, oak and black fruit aromas. On the palate, it provides medium acidity and full body, with well-integrated tannins and notes of blackberry, cherry, smoke and an undercurrent of cocoa in the long finish. 

Beckett’s Flat Five Stones, Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2007, Margaret River, Australia, $18.00
A boutique winery in Western Australia, Beckett’s Flat has been producing Kosher wines since 1998. This wine emulates white Bordeaux with its blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon. With nice, vibrant acidity, the wine displays cut grass, lime and grapefruit on the palate. It has long length. 

Abarbanel Riesling 2004, Alsace, France, $22.00 (Meshuval)
This is the only kosher Alsatian Riesling imported to the United States. It is a classic Riesling with tropical fruit and honey aromas on the nose. On the palate, it is dry with high acidity and flavors of citrus, honey and minerality. 

Layla Pinot Noir 2006, Mendoza, Argentina, $14.00 (Meshuval)
The grapes are sourced from the highly prized Luján de Cuyo sub-appellation of Mendoza. Showing strawberry notes on the nose, the wine is dry, with bright acidity. It provides flavors of tart berries with an earthiness in the finish.
NB: While not as food friendly for a seder as the Pinot Noir will be, Layla also produces a Malbec that is very good, with a pronounced nose of black fruit and wet leaves, which give way to raspberry and earth on the palate (also $14.00). 

Efrat Israeli Series Merlot 2007, Israel $12.00 (Meshuval)
Established in 1967, Efrat has been producing wine for over 40 years. It has aromas of cherry and a cola note. This dry wine has medium+ acidity and medium tannins. It displays notes of cherry, cola, and oak, followed by a hint of spice in the long finish.

An Examined Life: I join the Examiner.com as NY Wine Shopping Examiner

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This week I began writing a column for Examiner.com as their NY Wine Shopping Examiner.

I am excited about the opportunity to combine my love of shopping with my passion for wine. While my sister , who works in the fashion industy has a closet full of clothes, I have a closet full of wines and you can imagine how they got there. I often feel like a kid in a candy store when I go to a wine shop, which is why I previously did most of my wine shopping online. However, as part of my investigative reporting, I will be venturing out of the house more and seeking out wine and spirit shops around New York.

In addition to profiling local wine shops, I will also cover wine shop events including in-store pours, classes and sales. If it has to do with wine and retail, it’s my beat. Won’t you join me on this journey?