Category Archives: Travel

Grand Cru Grape Vine: There’s More to NZ than SB (March 2011)

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Two weeks ago, we were tasting wine at the Pegasus Bay Winery in Waipara on New Zealand’s South Island. Thirty miles away, a major earthquake hit the city of Christchurch, with a magnitude of 6.3. We felt the earth’s violence and soon learned of the devastating destruction and death left in wake of the quake. Although we were literally and figuratively shaken, we were, thankfully, unharmed. Our thoughts go out to the citizens of Christchurch as they struggle to rebuild their city and their lives.   

Now, safely back at home, we are beginning to focus on the upcoming season and plan to post the 2011 Summer/Fall class schedule to the website by mid-April. In the meantime, Tracy is teaching at NYU and judging at the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition this month. Additionally, she is now a contributing writer for Wine Portfolio. Her article on Bordeaux’s new generation   

 appeared on the site in early February.   

Drink wisely and well,   

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE   

CEO: Chief Education Officer   

and   

Jared Michael Skolnick   

COO: Cork Opening Officer    

There’s More to NZ than SB: The Diversity of New Zealand Wines

Cloudy Bay was the Sauvignon Blanc (or as the New Zealanders call it, Savvy) shot heard round the world when it hit the ground running in 1986. In fact, the company is celebrating its 25th birthday this year. With pungent tropical fruit and overt herbaceous character, this wine from Marlborough, New Zealand put this grape on the world wine map in a way that Bordeaux Blanc (white) and Sancerre (both of which are also produced with Sauvignon Blanc) never had. And, it was deserved praise.    

But, if all you know about New Zealand is Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, think again. Hailing from areas such as Hawkes Bay, Martinborough and Central Otago, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Syrah and Pinot Noir are all thriving. And, with wines worthy of Alsace, Burgundy and the Rhone Valley, New Zealand is quickly earning a reputation as the France of the New World. Today, the wines of New Zealand are much more varied than a single wine region or a single grape variety. Rather, New Zealand’s winemakers are crafting world-class wines from a whole host of grapes and in a wide range of climates from the top of the North Island to the bottom of the South Island and many places in between.   

While grapes arrived in New Zealand in the mid-1800s, brought by the missionaries who came to settle the English territory, winemaking didn’t become a major focus for New Zealanders until the latter part of the 20th century. With a solid understanding of stainless steel tanks and refrigeration/temperature control, thanks to the country’s booming dairy business, New Zealand was able to create clean, well-made wines that were fresh and fruity. And, with its primarily maritime climate, the grapes achieve full ripeness, but remain balanced, with lively acidity.   

Just off the coast of the city of Auckland, Waiheke Island is home to a small, but well-respected, wine region. Here, full-bodied reds such as Syrah and Bordeaux-style blends can do well alongside the usual suspects of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Also sufficiently warm, the Hawkes Bay region, on the North Island’s East Coast, finds many of its winemakers focused on Syrah, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, among others. South of Hawkes Bay, which in the Southern Hemisphere means a cooler climate, we find Wairarapa Valley/Martinborough. Known for its Pinots – both Noir and Gris – the region also excels in Riesling.   

On the northeastern tip of the South Island is the region of Marlborough, Cloudy Bay’s birthplace and which is responsible for nearly 60% of all New Zealand wine production, much of which is devoted to Sauvignon Blanc (if it ain’t broke…). Yet, these producers also show great aplomb with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. Still further south, Central Otago is home to the southernmost vineyards in the world and a diverse set of microclimates in this much cooler climate. Here, in places like Bannockburn’s desert, the miners left their mark as they sluiced the landscape in search of gold and other minerals, resulting in a scene that seems more Bryce Canyon, Utah than New Zealand.   

And, of course, there are the occasional oddities from producers thinking outside the box. Along our travels, we also tasted Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Pinot Blanc, Semillon, Gamay, Montepulciano, Tempanillo and even a Pinotage blend, called Robert the Bruce. From sparkling Pinot Gris to late harvest Sauvignon Blanc and everything in between, the wines from New Zealand are truly diverse.   

     

TASTING NOTES
Wines are listed by region, from North to South, instead of the usual alphabetical listing.    

Man O War, Syrah 2008, Waiheke Island, New Zealand, $22.00
The largest producer on the island, Man O War is among the only Waiheke producers exported to the U.S. While we didn’t have a chance to visit the winery while we were in town, Tracy did have the opportunity to taste this wine blind against a wine from the Northern Rhône Valley (Nicholas-Perrin 2007, St. Joseph, France) and it held its own. The wine shows notes of meat, spice and red fruits, with full body, lively acidity and firm tannins.    

Te Mata, Cabernet Merlot 2008, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, $18.00
Te Mata maintains a self-catering cottage (1892 Vineyard House) just down the road from its winery with breathtaking vineyards views one can see from bed. This Bordeaux-style blend has a small amount of Petit Verdot also included. Showing black currant, vanilla and oak on the nose, the wine was dry with medium tannins and flavors of coffee, oak, black cherry and black currant.   

Ata Rangi, Pinot Noir 2009, Martinborough, New Zealand, $40.00
Helen Masters is winemaker for this pioneer producer and has been with Ata Rangi for 9 years. We absolutely adored her Pinot Gris (and her dog, see photo), but they don’t export that wine. Fortunately, her Pinot Noir is equally amazing with aromas of raspberry and dried herbs on the nose. The palate presents with high acidity, fine-grained, medium tannins and notes of raspberry, dried herbs, savory and a slight undercurrent of earth, culminating in long length.   

Villa Maria, Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Marlborough, New Zealand, $18.00
OK, we’ve just finished telling you to expand your horizons beyond Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but this single-vineyard wine is worth the rut. The namesake bay sits just south of the famous cloudy one, on the eastern side of the region known as the Awatere Valley. A typical nose of gooseberry and herbs gives way to a more restrained and elegant palate of tropical fruit, nettles, tomato leaf and slight salinity, all of which persist throughout the extremely long length.   

 Pegasus Bay, Riesling 2008, Waipara, New Zealand, $26.00
As noted above, we were at this winery during the earthquake – an occupational hazard of stopping for wine tastings may have spared us harm. Thankfully, the winery building was built to withstand the shocks and other than a swinging chandelier, there was no evidence of the disaster when we left. Their Riesling has won many awards and it was easy to see why with its floral and honeyed nose. On the palate, the wine is off-dry with high acidity to balance the slight sweetness and flavors of honey, pineapple, lime zest and a trace of minerality in the finish.   

Amisfield, Rocky Knoll Pinot Noir 2006, Central Otago, New Zealand, $85.00
This wine is only produced in outstanding vintages, which currently include 2003 and 2006. Compared to Amisfield’s other Pinot Noir offering, this wine spends a longer period of time aging in oak (15 months). Showing some development on the nose, with dark red fruit, herbal and earth aromas, these are joined by cherries, plums and wet leaves with beautiful balance, complexity and concentration, along with a hint of minerality in the long finish.

When in doubt, drink Tequila

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The view from the balcony was breathtaking – the sand, the sea and the sun all conspired to produce an amazing tableau. Sitting on the balcony every day, we never grew bored with the sight.

Situated in the heart of Cancun, Mexico, we settled into a rhythm for our vacation, foreswearing our usual wine for a week filled with Margaritas. Our visit to the downtown Walmart had yielded an inexpensive, but reasonably nice quality, bottle of Tequila, along with the ubiquitous Jose Cuervo Margarita mix. It wasn’t fancy, but the duo did the trick and kept us awash in cocktails for the week.

Admittedly, a true Margarita should be made with Triple Sec and lime juice (instead of the mix), but we took the lazy journey to Margaritaville.

During our trip, we had the pleasure of visiting the Hacienda Tequila where we were given a brief tutorial on how tequila is made and were reminded on just what it is that makes tequila, well, tequila.

Tequila is part of the larger class of spirits called Mezcal, which are produced from the agave plant. Tequila hails from a delimited area within Mexico, centered around the state of Jalisco, but with differences in aromas and flavors stemming from the various terroirs. In addition, it must be made with 100% blue agave, which is considered to be a superior variety of agave. While these plants resemble cacti, they are actually related to the Amaryllis family.

Jimadors (field workers) harvest the core of the blue agave when the plant is between 6 and 8 years of age. The cores are cooked with direct heat for 36-48 hours and then left in the ovens with residual heat for an additional 24-36 hours. This cooking process is necessary in order to convert the starchy core into a fermentatble sugar. After cooking, the cores are milled to extract the  sugary liquid and remove the extensive fiber. This liquid is fermented into an alcoholic liquid, which is then distilled in pot stills, generally with two distillations.

Depending upon the maturation and ageing, tequilas are labeled as follows:
*Gold or Joven – unaged, with the addition of coloring agents (mostly caramel)
*White or Blanco – unaged or rested a maximum of two months
*Reposado – minimum of two months aging in wood
*Anejo – minimum of one year aging in wood
*Extra Anejo – minimum of three years aging in wood

We tasted through a number of tequilas at Hacienda Tequila, most of which were sipping tequilas — too good to be adultered with margarita mix. One of our favorites was the Casa Azul Reposado, which we purchased in the airport’s duty free shop on the way home. We also loved the Casa Azul Anejo, but it was pricier than we preferred to spend. Now, all we need to do is pour some tequila, close our eyes and be transported back to our Cancun balcony.

Grand Cru Grapevine: From Potatoes to Parker Points (July 2010)

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 We hope you enjoyed the holiday weekend and are having a great summer!

We continue to be busy, but have no complaints. In late June, Tracy participated in a video shoot for a segment of Wine Portfolio, an online television show that airs on CNBC. The segment focused on Wine Shopping in New York City, with stops at Sherry-Lehmann, Bottle Rocket and Chelsea Wine Vault. Host Jody Ness and the entire crew were a pleasure to work with. The episode won’t air for several months, but we’ll keep you posted when we have more details.

This month, Tracy was asked to serve as the judge for a special event celebrating Caymus’ Conundrum, which was paired with a range of take-out cuisine in search of the best match. This wine is a “proprietarily secretive blend of California white grapes”, drawing from Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat Canelli, Chardonnay and Viognier, and a combination of stainless steel and barrel fermentation that results in an unusual, but wonderful wine. 

Later this month, Tracy will present “Born in the USA: American Sparklers” at the Society of Wine Educators’ annual conference in Washington, D.C.

And, back at home, we invite you to save the date for the first HARVEST Wine Auction & Celebration of Long Island’s East End, September 24-25, 2010. Grand Cru Classes will offer its “From Mystery to Mastery” class (Saturday, September 25, 11:00 AM -1:00 PM) through the event’s Wine Salon, as part of this two-day extravaganza, which culminates in a Grand Tasting and Gala Dinner at Wolffer Vineyards.

Many of our readers are familiar with the East End and understand what there is to celebrate, but for those that are less familiar, we share some of the history and current state of affairs of the East End with you this month.  Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
       and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer  

 

  

From Potatoes to Parker Points
Agriculture has long been a feature of the North Fork, with the potato industry achieving prominence, along with cauliflower and other crops. But, times have changed. Today, the potato fields have given way to vineyards and vacationers. 

With the first vineyard planted in 1973 by a young, starry-eyed couple fresh out of Harvard, the first seeds (or rather vines) of the Long Island wine region were sown. That couple, Louisa and Alex Hargrave, were true pioneers, bringing vision and bravado to their newly purchased farm. Much like the early English settlers that preceded them, Alex and Louisa came to the task with limited knowledge, but unlimited passion and drive, pushing them to succeed where others were sure they would fail. Before long, they were joined in their efforts by other adventurous souls, all of whom were in love with wine. As time flew by, a fledgling wine region was born, eventually becoming an internationally recognized producer of quality wine.

The region now garners consistent coverage in the New York Times with Howard Goldberg’s bi-weekly column. Howard’s colleague, Eric Asimov, has lauded Long Island’s efforts in his own columns with increasing frequency, for both current and vintage wines. Additional publicity has been accomplished with big spreads in Wine Spectator and other glossy magazines, giving greater credibility to the region. Building on their accomplishments, the return visit of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, long considered to be among the most influential (albeit controversial) wine publications, proved to be a boon with all wines scoring a minimum of 84 and 23 wines earning scores of 90 or above (the highest score was 92). Across the pond, Decanter magazine has recognized the region with profiles of wineries and medals awarded to Long Island wines.Today, the Long Island wine region is home to 60 vineyards and 51 wine producers (35 of which are open to the public) and has garnered repeated praise in both consumer and trade publications. Moreover, the bucolic region has retained much of its rural charm, making it a true escape from the hustle and bustle of New York City, located only two hours away.

The wineries welcome visitors to their tasting rooms, each of which has its own special atmosphere. Guests can generally taste through a flight of wines for a small fee or can often choose to buy wine by the glass to enjoy in the wonderful surroundings. Of course, wine by the bottle and case is available for sale as well. Nearly year-round, but particularly during season (Memorial Day through Thanksgiving), the wineries play host to a wide variety of activities from jazz musicians and blue grass bands to dog shows, comedy festivals and other special events.

>Learn more about the region’s wineries through the Long Island Wine Council’s website.

Tasting Notes

Brooklyn Oenology Viognier 2007, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $18.00
Owner and winemaker Allie Shaper is also the new face behind the wines at Comtesse Therese. Aromas of melon and spice give way to a dry palate with ripe tropical fruit and melon notes.

Shinn Estate, Estate Coalescence 2009, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $14.00
Restaurateurs turned wine producers, David Page and Barbara Shinn produce elegant wines that are extremely food-friendly. A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot Blanc and Riesling, this wine has a pronounced nose with a dry palate, showing grassy notes with citrus and a hint of floral and spice.

Corey Creek Vineyards Domaines CC Rosé 2007, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $18.00
Corey Creek, a sister property to Bedell Cellars, has always been known for its rosé. Bright berry aromas greet the nose;in the mouth, it is dry with fruity, fresh berries that persist on the palate.

Jason’s Vineyard Merlot 2000, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $14.95
A second generation winemaker on the North Fork, Jason is the son of Dr. Damianos, owner of Pindar and Duck Walk Vineyards. At 10 years old, this wine has an aged bouquet of dried fruit and flowers. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, dried berries and cherries, spice and oak. 

Castello di Borghese, Merlot 2005, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $20.00
The original Hargrave vineyard and winery was sold to Prince Marco and Princess Ann Marie Borghese in 1999 where they continue the legacy started in 1973. This wine shows notes of meat and fruit on the nose with black cherry, plum, oak and meat flavors that linger throughout the long length.

Oregon, but not forgotten: A Visit to the Willamette Valley

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We had the wonderful opportunity to travel to Oregon in May 2009, visiting downtown Portland and spending time in the Willamette Valley. While wine regions exist in Oregon’s other valleys, namely the Umpqua and Rogue, it is the Willamette Valley that has achieved the most fame. This wine region is producing spectacular wines and while we have left the area, the memories of its wines are certainly not forgotten. Despite its youth as a wine-producing state, Oregon has become nearly synonymous with quality wine. Yet, only a few decades ago, early settlers were laughed at by their peers. In 1966, David Lett was a newly minted UC Davis graduate determined to plant a vineyard and begin making wine. He found what he felt to be suitable land in the Dundee Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, founding the Eyrie Vineyard in 1970, and the rest, as they say, is history.

 

David was joined by other wine pioneers shortly thereafter, setting the stage for this nascent wine region. Seeing similarity between their terroir and that of Burgundy (heartland of Pinot Noir), they set about crafting wines that emulated these icons while respecting their own unique soils and climate. Perhaps the most ringing endorsement of their success was the investment made by top Burgundy négociant and producer, Maison Joseph Drouhin, when it established Domaine Drouhin in Willamette in 1988. Today, Oregon ranks as the fourth largest in U.S. wine production and its wines are highly acclaimed both here and abroad. In fact, Oregon Pinot Noirs are considered to be among the best New World Pinot Noirs.

Situated only one hour south from Portland, the Willamette Valley is home to varied volcanic soils and a cool climate. The Valley is divided into six sub-appellations: Dundee Hills, Ribbon Ridge, Eola-Amity Hills, McMinneville, Yamhill-Carlton District and Chehalem Mountains. Beyond world class Pinot Noir, the Willamette is also known for its Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and sparkling wines. To a lesser extent, some producers are working with Rhone varieties – Syrah and Viognier – most of which is sourced from the warmer Rogue Valley in southern Oregon. The majority of Willamette’s wineries are open to the public for tastings and sales and readily welcome visitors.

 

Thus, we arrived in Portland, OR on a Wednesday evening, ready for a long weekend of wonderful food and wine. From the airport, downtown Portland is easily accessible via public transportation and, once there, easily navigated on foot, trolley or bus. As a relatively major city, Portland is home to a wide range of neighborhoods as well as museums, historic sites and other points of interest. Due to our limited time in town, our cultural visit was restricted to the Rose (gratis) and Japanese Gardens ($8.00/adult), both of which were beautiful. The Japanese Garden was particularly lovely for its amazing view of Mount Hood.|

East of the city, visitors can escape to the “wilderness” and enjoy white water rafting, hiking and other outdoor activities. We spent a half-day rafting down the Clackamas River (www.riverdrifters.net; $60/adult), which was full of fury with the recent snow melt, but a lot of fun. We then returned to Portland and splurged on dinner at Paley’s Place (www.paleysplace.net), a local favorite that specializes in locavore cuisine, with a wine list to match. We were impressed by the food as well as with the excellent customer service and knowledgeable waitstaff, who not only expertly advised us on our wine selection, but also on the cheese selections at dessert.  

Saturday morning found us at the local craft market (known as the Saturday Market, www.saturdaymarket.org), which is host to hundreds of vendors peddling their wares from candles and clothing to jewelry, pottery and glass art. This outing was followed by a visit to the Portland Farmers’ Market (www.portlandfarmersmarket.org), where we stocked up on local produce, fresh strawberries, smoked fish, artisan bread and a host of other homegrown food. The reason for this latter stop was that, instead of staying at a hotel or bed and breakfast, we had opted to rent a cottage in Carlton while staying in Willamette. This arrangement provided us with a good excuse to buy a few bottles of wine each day to enjoy with dinner prepared on the grill at “home”, without worrying about driving while intoxicated.

 

Carlton, we were told, is the “center of the Willamette universe.” Compared to New York City (or even Portland), it is a very small town, but there is some merit to that statement. Carlton is home to a number of wineries and tasting rooms, along with several restaurants and wine and cheese bar, The Horse Radish (www.thehorseradish.com). Aside from being a great place to stock up on Oregonian and international cheeses, The Horse Radish features live music on Friday and Saturday nights and not just local bands; on the night we were there, the musical duo was from Arizona.

 

Excited to have arrived in the valley, we walked up to the Zenas Wines’ (www.zenaswines.com) tasting room. Zenas produces three of its four wines with fruit sourced from the Del Rio Vineyards in the Rogue Valley and its Riesling with Willamette Valley fruit. The Southern Oregon wines include a Meritage (Bordeaux-style blend), Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Named for Zenas Howard, an early (1856) settler in the Rogue Valley, the winery is currently owned by his descendents.

We then headed out to Anne Amie (www.anneamie.com; $5.00 tasting fee/ $10.00 for the Reserve flight). This property was formally known as Chateau Benoit Winery, but was purchased by its new owner, Dr. Robert Pamplin, in 1999. Dr. Pamplin has been focused on elevating the quality and reputation of his winery ever since and is producing primarily Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc on its L.I.V.E. certified sustainable vineyards. The tasting room is located at the top of a hill and provides beautiful views of the vineyards and Pacific Coast Range.

 

We kicked off the following morning at Penner Ash (http://pennerash.com), which focuses on both Burgundy (Pinot Noir) & Rhone (Syrah and Viognier) varieties. Founded by winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash in 1998, along with husband Ron, Penner-Ash has evolved from an initial 125 production to 8,000 cases annually. Another hilltop tasting room, the vistas are quite incredible as one walks amidst the lush landscaping.

 

From Penner-Ash, it was off to Adelsheim (www.adelsheim.com). Among the early pioneers, Adelsheim was established in 1971 by Ginny and David Adelsheim and several of its labels feature portraits of family members and friends of the winery. The newly renovated tasting room also offers outdoor seating, where one can enjoy a bottle of wine with a picnic lunch (we picked up our lunch ahead of time in Carlton at the Filling Station).

Our next stop was Daedalus Cellars (www.daedaluscellars.com), a small, family-owned and operated winery which specializes in Pinot Noir, but also makes small amounts of Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay and Grüner Veltliner. Additionally, Daedalus produces a second label, Jezebel, with grapes sourced from throughout the state for wines intended to be drunk early in their life. The tasting room is rather small, but is conveniently located on the main drag (99W in Dundee).

 

Exclusively devoted to Pinot Noir, White Rose Wines (www.whiterosewines.com) was planted in 1980. Its vineyard is a high-elevation sight on top of the famous Dundee Hills, permitting views of Mount Hood in the distance. Owned by Greg Sanders, the winery has developed several different wines, with four of the six wines named for Greg’s children.

 

We capped off the day at Carlton Winemakers’ Studio (www.winemakersstudio.com), which is a joint venture among several different wine producers. Launched in 2002, the studio is currently home to ten artisan vintners and serves as a great incubator for up and comers; past alumni include Penner-Ash, Soter Vineyards and Ribbon Ridge Vineyards. The facility itself is designed to maximize daylight and is produced from recycled and sustainable materials. On the day of our visit, we tasted wines from several producers including Hamacher Wines and Andrew Rich.

The second full day of tasting began at Bergström Wines (www.bergstromwines.com; $25.00 tasting fee). Founded by John and Karen Bergström, the couple’s five children and spouses now co-own the winery with their parents, with son Josh Bergström presently serving as winemaker. Known for ultra premium wines and a focus on vineyard expression, Bergstrom produces several limited production, vineyard-designate Pinot Noirs.

The next stop on our itinerary was WillaKenzie Estate (www.willakenzie.com; $15.00 tasting fee, refundable with $25.00 wine purchase), where we were greeted by co-owner, Ronnie LaCroute, who graciously provided us with a tour. As Ronnie likes to remind folks, “Dirt matters.” Therefore, it is no surprise to learn that WillaKenzie is named for a type of soil that originates from the pushed up sea floor found in the Yamhill-Carlton and Ribbon Ridge areas. Among the larger properties we visited, WillaKenzie is situated on a 420-acre, former cattle ranch and practices sustainable viticulture.

 

We ended our tastings at Amity Vineyards (www.amityvineyards.com), where we met with owner, Myron Redford, who began making wine in the Eola-Amity appellation (the southernmost Willamette AVA) in 1974. Myron has an extremely diverse portfolio at Amity, ranging from his EcoWine® range of organic and sulfite-free wines to the Reserve and single-vineyard wines.

 

SELECTED TASTING NOTES
Anne Amie, Cuvée A Amrita 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $16.00
Named for the Buddhist equivalent of ambrosia, Amrita is a white blend of Pinot Blanc (47%), Muller-Thurgau (25%), Chardonnay (15%), and Riesling (13%). Aromas of tropical fruit and grass give way to a dry palate with citrus and herbal flavors. 1,700 cases produced.

Adelsheim, Pinot Blanc 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $22.00
This Pinot Blanc shows citrus, mineral and pear aromas. On the palate, it is dry with medium acidity, medium body and notes of citrus and minerality.

Daedalus, Lia’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2006, Chehalem Mountain, OR, $25.00
After spending 500 days on the lees, along with 18 months in neutral oak, this wine displays aromas and flavors of yeast, citrus and toothpick.

 

White Rose Wines, White Rose Estate 2006, Dundee Hills, OR, $75.00
Produced from 30 year-old vines, cropped at only 1 ton per acre, this wine is very concentrated on both the nose and palate. Aromas of floral and earth give way to more fruity flavors of raspberry and cherry. 198 cases produced.

Bergström, de Lancellotti Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Chehalem Mountains, OR, $65.00
The de Lancellotti Vineyard bottling shows floral, raspberry and stone aromas and flavors, which combine with an earthy undercurrent that persists throughout its long length. 455 cases produced.

WillaKenzie Estate, Pierre-Léon Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley, OR, $38.00
With a beautifully perfumed nose accompanied by a note of fresh raspberries, this wine continues to deliver on the palate with raspberry, earth, minerality and an undercurrent of wet leaves.

Penner-Ash, Syrah 2006, Oregon, $32.00
Produced in the northern Rhone Valley tradition, this Syrah is co-fermented with 1.5% Viognier. The nose is a mix of plum, berries and floral. Its dry, medium+-bodied palate has a nice, ripe tannic grip with flavors of plum, spice and leather, culminating in long length.

Amity Vineyards, Late Estate Harvest Riesling 2004, Willamette Valley, OR, $15.00 (375 ml)
This late harvest Riesling offers peach, apricot and honey aromas on the nose, joined by developing and floral notes in the mouth. A true dessert wine, it provides significant sweetness on the palate, which is beautifully balanced with vibrant acidity.

California Here I Come

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With the holiday season in the rearview mirror, we bid goodbye to Santa Claus and say hello to another Santa, Santa Barbara. We’ll be visiting this wine region in April with my family to celebrate my father’s birthday. In deference to him, I won’t reveal his age, but it is a milemarker, hence this big family vacation.

Like much of California, winemaking in Santa Barbara began during the Missionary period and then stagnated during Prohibition. While its modern period of viticulture began in the 1960s, it certainly came upon the world scene with the launch of the movie Sideways. During my last visit to the region, I was much too young to drink (~12), so I have no reference point, but I am looking forward to getting to know some of these wineries first hand.

Also part of the area is the town of Solvang, which was recently featured in an episode of the Girls Next Door, and a place I do recall from that childhood visit long ago. Solvang is an authentic Danish village that looks like you stepped out of reality into a Grimm’s Fairy Tale. Fortunately, the big, bad wolf is no where to be found.

I’ve already visited the  Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Association and requested (and have already received) their touring map, which will help us plan our travels. My parents have taken care of the accommodations (we are renting a house), plane tickets have been purchased and we’ve booked a birthday dinner at bouchon, which has a terrific list of local wines, 40 of them available by the glass. The only thing left to do is to select which wineries to visit.

We had the pleasure of meeting Steve Clifton of Clifton Brewer and Palmina at the Long Island symposium back in August, who hails from this region, so we hope to visit with him or at least visit the tasting room to enjoy some of the wines he didn’t bring east with him.

Unlike my previous visits to wine regions, where it is generally just my husband and myself, we will be  traveling as a group of six. The consequences are that it will be more challenging to agree upon which wineries to visit and I think we may need to make reservations in advance given the size of our group.

We arrive in Santa Barbara on April 18, which coincidently coincides with the annual Vintners’ Festival, held at River Park in Lompac. The main festival doesn’t start until 1:00 PM on Saturday and we are scheduled to arrive at 9:30 AM, so it should be doable. The only issue will be whether we can stay awake since we have a 6:00 AM flight from NYC.

Other festivities are held at the various wineries throughout the weekend. Tickets for the main festival are $75.00/person and a “Vintners’ Visa” which permits its holder to have the tasting fees waived at up to 12 wineries over the four-day period, is $35.00/person. They offer a designated driver Vintners’ Visa at $25.00/person, which is a bit confusing. While I laud their efforts in advocating responsible drinking and abstention from drinking and driving, I’m not sure why someone has to pay not to drink. 🙂 Likely they provide the driver with some sort of nice recognition, but nothing is specifically stated on the website other than price.

Santa Barbara is highly regarded for its Pinot Noir wines, but certainly isn’t exclusive to this grape. Yet the cool climate, thanks to the maritime influence of the Pacific, truly creates beautiful wines from this variety. Not surprisingly, Chardonnay also does remarkably well here. Inland, where the climate is warmer, one will find some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. And, the aforementioned Palmina specializes in Italian varietals.

Within Santa Barbara County are three AVAs, which sound like a line-up of Christopher Columbus’ ships: Santa Ynez Valley, Sta Rita Hills and the Santa Maria Valley. A fourth area, , Los Alamos Valley, is not an official appellation, but it is a well-demarcated area within the region.

The Vintner’s Association has outlined six different wine tasting routes, but I don’t think we’ll hit them all in sequence. I have much more research to do in deciding where I want to go and then, of course, run it by the committee. Regardless of where we go, I am sure we will taste lots of wonderful wines and I am very much looking forward to the trip.

Lovely Wines from Languedoc-Roussillon

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Collioure, France

On a wet, blustery autumn day, I packed up my things and headed off to the South of France. Well, I headed out to a tasting of wines from Southern France located across town, but, for a few hours I was transported to the sun and warmth of Languedoc.

Held at Fig & Olive, the Sud de France tasting was organized by Teuwen One Image on behalf of client La Maison de la Region Languedoc-Rousillon. Having actually been in the Languedoc some years ago, I was familiar with the region and very much looked forward to the tasting.

Spanning along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea, the region is located in the Southwest of France, stretching from the Spanish border to just West of the Rhone Valley. Much of the climate is tempered by the Mistral. This wind is so strong that driving along the highway during our visit, we could feel the car shake. It is a large, geographic area and includes ~30 different appellations, along with a vast number of Vin de Pays and simple table wines. Previously, this was a region known for quantity and not quality, but things have changed significantly over the past several years.

While most of the international grapes are grown here, the region is primarily known for red grapes Syrah, Carignan, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Grenache, frequently blended together. Among the white varieties are Viognier, Picpoul Blanc and Roussanne.  Dry and fruity roses are also produced as are fortified dessert wines. The majority of these wines are well priced, offering great value under $20.00 and many under $15.00. The most expensive wine represented at the tasting retails for $48.00, but this truly was the exception rather than the rule.

I did not get to taste all of the wines at the event, but did taste through seven of the ten collections presented, which was simply a matter of navigating the crowd, not an indictment on the producers I missed. As always in these walk-around tastings, my notes are limited in their detail, but a few did stand out, which I starred in my book.

I particularly liked the Chateau Les Ollieux wines from Frank Johnson Selections. The estate had been family owned for many generations, but due to French inheritance laws and their resulting tax bills, it had to be sold. Fortunately, a nearby neighbor was the purchaser, keeping the wines under a similar regimen. From the Corbieres AOC, the two wines available for tasting were the Rouge Cuvee Tradition 2005, a blend of 33% Syrah, 31% Grenache, 31% Carignan and 5% Mourvedre and its reverse counterpart, the Rouge Cuvee Francoise Cartier 2001 (40% Mourvedre, 30% Carignan, 15% Grenache and 15% Syrah). The Tradition had medium+ tannins with red fruits and meaty notes, while the Francoise Cartier tended toward black fruits and leather.

I also liked many of the wines from Henny & Francois Selections, which focuses on natural and organic wines. The Chemin de Bassac Vin de Pays de Cotes de Thongue “Isa Blanc” 2007 is a blend of 33% Viognier and 67% Roussanne with a very floral nose. On the palate, the wine has good acidity with citrus and floral notes. As a certified organic producer, no man-made chemicals are used in the production of its grapes.

From Pasternak, the Chateau d’Aussieres Vin de Pays d’Oc Aussiere Rouge 2006 (40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Merlot) was a nice example of integrating indigenous grapes with higher profile grapes. It showed bright red fruit with notes of underbrush, providing some complexity in the wine.

Overall, these are wines that are very accessible, especially given the economic climate and should be more easily available on retail shelfs and on restaurant lists. If you are not familiar with the wines of this region, it’s time to give them a try.

Cotes de Roussillon, France

Cotes de Roussillon, France

Sauntering through Southern Italy: The Wines of Puglia

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The Wine Media Guild held its monthly luncheon earlier this month at Felida restaurant. This month's theme was wines from the Italian region of Puglia, which ranks second overall in Italian wine production, with a 13% share in total, and 6% in DOC/DOCG (quality wine categorization). These figures represent a significant growth in the quality wine arena. In the past year, fine wine production in Puglia has grown from 28% to 35% of Puglia's total production.

Our guest speaker for the afternoon was Charles Scicolone, noted expert on Italian wines. My previous experience with Charles was as a participant many years ago in a pizza making and wine tasting class he presented at I Truli restaurant.

According to Charles, Pliny the Elder spoke highly of Puglian wines, placing them on par with those of Campania, which were widely recognized at the time. While less recognized today, wine came to Southern Italy early on with the Etruscans and Greeks teaching the Italians to cultivate grapes and eventually make wine. In fact, Italy was originally called Oenotria — land of the trained vine.

As 2% of the area is mountanous, the majority of vines are planted low to the ground. A tendone canopy was traditional, but has lost favor, whereas the bush method of vine training is coming back into vogue.

Puglia achieved its Golden Age during the Norman occupation from the 11th century through 1250. Centuries later, during phylloxera, its vines were wiped out. Accordingly, most of the currently planted grapes are not indigenous to the region as many might think.

For a long time during the more modern era, the focus of Puglian wines was on quantity, not quality. The wines were made to emphasize high alcohol and sugar and many found their way to Northern Italy and France, to beef up the wines made in these more northerly (and thus, cooler) climates. Today, the emphasis has shifted toward quality with more balanced wines produced.

Some foreign investment has started to trickle into the region with Kendall-Jackson and Mano a Mano. Pierro Antinori also came in from Northern Italy and produces its Tormaresca brand here.

For the future, Charles sees both the whites and reds continuing to improve, but cautions that the bargains may be disappearing as greater investments are made, quality improves and the Euro maintains its strength. Yet, compared to many other Italian wines, these wines should still seem relatively inexpensive to the U.S. consumer.

Also in attendance at the luncheon, Francesa Mancareli of Candido wines, provided us with some history about her wine brand, which had its first vintage in 1929. We had the opportunity to taste Candido's Aleatico 2002, Salice Salento red, dessert wine, which was beautifully balanced. Candido is between importers, but anticipates a return to the U.S. in March 2009.

Grapes grown in Puglia today include: Negroamaro, Uva di Troia and Primativo, among the reds. White wines include Greco and Malvasia. We were advised that Primativo, while frequently considered to be descended from the same Croatian ancestor as Zinfandel, might actually originate from the Eastern U.S. This controversy remains.

Quality wine appellations include: Primativo di Manduria, Salice Salentino, Brindisi, Leverano and Castel del Monte with regional wines (IGT): Salento, Murgia and Puglia.

My favorite white wine of the day was the Botromagno, Gravino Bianco, 2007, which was a blend of 60% Greco and 40% Malvasia, Gravina Bianco DOC. The wine has floral and citrus aromas with ripe fruit flavors of pineapple and other citrus and long length. ($11.00 from Winebow)

I didn't have the opportunity to taste more than a handful of the red wines and admittedly, my notes are somewhat sparse. However, I was particularly impressed with the following two wines:
Taurino, Patriglione, 1999 (old-vine Negroamaro), $70.00, Winebow
Vallone, Gratticiaia, 2003 (Negroamaro), $60-70, Liberty
While they were different from one another, both possessed notes of concentrated, dried fruits with layers of complexity.

Sonoma Travelogue: Wining & Dining in Wine Country

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As noted in a previous post, I went to Sonoma, CA for the Wine Bloggers Conference at the tail end of October. We flew into SFO airport, picked up our rental car and then headed downtown to cross the Golden Gate bridge, which is my second favorite bridge, (Brooklyn Bridge is my first favorite) on our way north.

We chose to take the scenic route, driving along Route 1, which meanders along the Pacific coast before heading inland through Point Reyes National Seashore and then back out to ocean views. On the way, we drove through some small towns including the quaint, beachfront village of Stinson Beach (Population ~400) and later the rural Tomales (Population ~50) before reaching Bodega Bay.

This seaside town is due west of Santa Rosa and provided a perfect place to stop for lunch. Given the myriad of signs for BBQ oysters (something we had never heard of), we made sure to order this local delicacy and were well rewarded. Oysters measuring nearly six inches in size had been grilled and then dressed with BBQ sauce. They were tender, meaty and above all, tasty.

Bellies full, we were now ready to begin our marathon of wine tastings planned for the long weekend. We tried to stop at Freestone, Joseph Phelps’ new Sonoma venture focusing on cool climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but they are only open Friday through Monday and it was Thursday. Our next stop was Lynmar where we selected their Estate tasting ($10.00/tasting), pairing two Chardonays and two Pinots Noirs which compares their Russian River Valley AVA blends with the Quail Hill Vineyard estate- grown fruit. A dramatic, modern tasting room is available, but as it was 95 degrees we decided to take advantage of the unseasonably warm weather and enjoy our tasting on the patio overlooking a lovely garden and the vineyards beyond.

We then headed to Hartford Family Winery to taste through a number of their wines. Of particular note, we tasted the Fog Dance (Green Valley AVA), Land’s Edge (Sonoma Coast AVA) and Velvet Sisters (Anderson Valley AVA) Pinot Noirs, all from the 2006 vintage. While all were California Pinots, they each had their own distinct characteristics, the first being the most floral and delicate, the latter, the most herbal and earthy and the middle one straddling the two with bright, ripe and juicy fruit. The tasting room is located in a beautiful stone building with large, wooden doors, recalling a European chateau.

With an eye toward saving our energy for dinner, we drove to Santa Rosa, which is centrally located within Sonoma, to check into our room at the Flamingo Hotel where the conference was being held. The 1950s vintage hotel features a neon flamingo atop its tower, which while more indicative of Vegas than wine country, serves as a beacon when returning to one’s hotel at night.

Our first dinner in Sonoma was booked at the Madrona Manor. Prepatory research indicated that the restaurant at this victorian mansion (which is also an inn) was among the top rated in the area and was chosen for its charming decor (the equally lauded Cyrus in Healdsburg seemed to have a more urban vibe) and Chef’s tasting menu. For $85.00, ($139 when paired with wines), diners are treated to a six-course tasting menu, along with an amuse-bouche and two apres-desserts. We sat in a beautifully   appointed room and were regaled with top-notch service. In fact, the maitre-d’ explained to us that the restaurant knows what the kitchen is capable of handling and thus, when booking private parties, which it had done that night, limits the number of reservations taken to be sure it doesn’t exceed its service capacity.

Friday morning  began with an appointment (which is required) at Siduri, a winery located within a corporate park in north Santa Rosa.  Owned by Adam and Dianne Lee, Siduri does not own any land, but rather, purchases all of its fruit from premium vineyards, producing an abundance of single-vineyard wines (all Pinot Noirs) from throughout California and Oregon. Sister Novy Family wines focuses on Syrah and Zinfandel and a handful of white wines. The tasting selection changes and included three of their 22 Pinot Noirs on the day of our visit. A brief visit to the behemoth Kendall-Jackson Wine Center precluded a visit to the tasting room and instead focused on its culinary and sensory gardens. We arrived a little too late for the gratis, guided tour, but were able to take a self-guided stroll through them, viewing different grape varieties and trellising systems and smelling various herbs and fruits planted to simulate the aromas found in wine.

By now it was lunch time and the conference was appropriately kicked-off with lunch at Kickranch Vineyards, owned by Dick Keenan & Kathy McNamara. Kickranch’s fruit, a mix of Sauvignon Blanc and Rhone varietals,  is highly prized by many wineries with long-term contracts, who produce vineyard-designated wines with it. Many of these wineries were present at the luncheon, including Renard, Rosenblum, Carica, Bedrock and Enkidu. I was particularly impressed with newcomer Bedrock, which is produced by Morgan Twain-Peterson, son of Joel Peterson of Ravenswood Winery. However, with his Master of Wine credential nearly complete, one certainly can’t say that Morgan is resting on his father’s laurels and, moreover, the wines speak for themselves.

Friday’s dinner was held at the hotel and featured wines from the Dry Creek Valley, including Dry Creek Vineyard, Quivira, Truett-Hurst, Michel-Schlumberger and Pedoncelli. Of note, many of the winegrowers in this area are practicing biodynamic viticulture.

Saturday morning found us on a vineyard hike with Mark Howser, vineyard manager for Alexander Valley Vineyards (AVV). Mark is extremely knowledgeable, having received his viticultural degree from Fresno State after leaving the military. Our two-mile walk began at Silver Oak’s Cabernet Sauvignon vines and meandered uphill for breathtaking views of the valley before heading down to AVV’s newly completed caves and culminating in a tasting paired with hors d’oeurves. The Alexander Valley AVA is highly prized for its Cabernet Sauvignon, which is much leaner and elegant in style compared to many of those produced in the Napa Valley, where the climate is warmer.

Dinner on Saturday night was held at Sebastiani, not too far from Sonoma Plaza. The historic property was a lovely setting for our meal with its antique vineyard and winery equipment. We were especially impressed with the Barbera. Sebastiani has recently sold off a significant portion of its holdings in an attempt to return to its roots as a small, family-run winery, now in its fourth generation.

At the conclusion of the conference, we met up with friends Peter and Nicole of San Francisco to continue our vineyard tour. We first went to Seghesio ($5.00/tasting), starting off with a white produced from the Italian varietal, Fiano. Primarily known for their Zinfandels, we had the opportunity to taste the Cortina, Rockpile and Home Ranch Zinfandels in addition to a Sangiovese.

Our next stop was Ridge, most famous for its Monte Bello, which took the top place among red wines in the 1976 Tasting of Paris. This Bordeaux-style blend is available for purchase, but not tasting, at least not at the Lytton Springs tasting room in the Dry Creek Valley (another tasting room is located on Monte Bello Road in Cupertino, CA). Rather, we enjoyed a tasting ($5.00/tasting) of several Zinfandels, a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Petite Syrah. The adjacent vineyards boast old-vine Zinfandel and offer lovely vistas of Dry Creek.

We rounded out the day with a visit to Papapietro Perry, which specializes in single vineyard Pinot Noir. Given this prediliction, its Zinfandels are produced in a lighter, Pinot Noir-style, which while quite nice as wines, are not really indicative of Zinfandel wines. The tasting room, which features a copper-topped bar, is located up a hill off Dry Creek Valley Road, where several other tasting rooms are located, making it easy to visit several places in one shot.

We enjoyed a wonderful dinner at El Dorado Kitchen with our friends, where we indulged in local produce and local wine. The scent of their truffled french fries wafting from the open kitchen was heavenly. We then bid them goodbye before returning to the sanctuary of our room at the Vintner’s Inn (we had switched hotels post-conference), owned by Ferrari-Carano wines.

With the conference behind us and a full day ahead, we hit the ground running early Monday morning with a visit to Tony Coturri of Coturri Winery. The drive to Glen Ellen was exquisite as the sun tried earnestly to break through the morning mist and we began our ascent to the Coturri property. Tony greeted us warmly, along with his two dogs, and spent considerable time answering our many questions about organic and biodynamic farming and winemaking. He also graciously poured several wines for us to taste. He doesn’t have a tasting room, so we greatly appreciate his willingness to share his time and expertise with us.

Given our interest in biodynamics, Tony suggested we visit the nearby Benziger Family Winery, which we did.  We chose to forgo the vineyard tram tour ($15.00/person) and headed straight to the tasting room, passing an exhibit of antique winery and farm equipment found on the property. We selected their “Estate, Biodynamic & Single Vineyard Tasting” ($15.00/tasting), which is poured in a special room away from the main tasting bar ($10.00/tasting).  I was suitably impressed with the Demeter-certified biodynamic Tribute, a Bordeaux-style blend made from estate grown fruit, but at $80.00/bottle, not likely to end up in my cellar. Benziger also has a nice educational display out front where we spent some time adding to our viticultural knowledge.

Returning to the hotel to change (the sun had indeed made its appearance), we headed to J Vineyards, which was established by Judy Jordan, daughter of the proprietors of Jordan wine. The winery is well known for its sparkling wines, although still wines are equally produced. We had planned to do a food and wine pairing in lieu of lunch, but we did not have a reservation for their Bubble Room, and we determined that it was still too cool to sit on the terrace to enjoy the oyster and sparkler pairing. We did stay to taste a few wines and were given the opportunity to sample their Pinotage, which was quite a surprise as our first encounter with a non-South African Pinotage. We were advised that there are only 15 acres of Pinotage in the US, with J owning three of them. Our kind host recommended Bear Republic Brewery in Healdsburg for a casual lunch, which was a nice respite before it was back to wine.

Getting an insider’s tip from a colleague, we checked out the wines at C. Donatiello, an up-and-coming Russian River Valley Chardonnay and Pinot Noir winery. From the parking lot, a set of landscaped stairs lead you to their beautiful patio, where signs note that picnics are welcome, before you walk into the tasting room. The Christie Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 was the most Burgundian in style and really nice at $38.00/bottle while the Sauvignon Blanc 2007 was interesting for its full body, depth and structure ($24.00/bottle).

Next on the agenda (yes, I really did have a formal, typed agenda for the trip) was Rochioli Winery. There was no fee for tasting, but only their estate wines are available. We tasted the 2007 Estate Chardonny and 2007 Special Cuvee Pinot Noir. While both wines were well made and quite lovely, the visit didn’t provide an appreciation for why the single vineyard Rochioli wines are so highly allocated, with as much as a five year wait to get on the coveted mailing list.

Mustering up some final energy, we visited Martinelli Winery, highly regarded for its wines produced by consultant winemaker, Helen Turley. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that Ms. Turley was a fellow Cornell alumna. Here we tasted through four different Chardonnays, followed by two Pinot Noirs and two Syrahs. All were very good wines and I was stunned to note that the Vigneto di Evo Zinfandel 2006 was well balanced despite its staggering 17.2% abv; surely one would be staggering after more than one glass of this wine. By this point, we were ready to rest up before dinner and probably should have selected a more locally situated restaurant in Santa Rosa, but instead chose to return to Sonoma Plaza to dine at The Girl and the Fig. The wine list is restricted to Rhone varietals, but not only to those from France. The restaurant’s Plat du Jour 3-course menu changes every Thursday and is a steal at $32.00/person. We then chose to pair the menu with a flight of three wines for an additional $8.00/person. The food was delicious and kept us warm on the 30+ minute ride back to our hotel.

Our final morning in Sonoma found us at Dutton-Goldfield’s tasting room, which it shares with Balletto. We had been connected to Dutton through a fellow wineblogger whose son is assistant winemaker there. Their Marketing Manager, Valerie Watham gave us a guided tasting and provided a history of the label. The “marriage” of vineyard manager Steve Dutton (of Dutton Ranch fame) and winemaker Dan Goldfield (formerly with La Crema and Hartford), Dutton-Goldfield focuses on cool climate grape growing, producing a range of single-vineyard wines, mostly from the Russian River Valley.

The last stop on our Sonoma tour was Iron Horse Vineyards, which had special meaning for us as we had read Joy Sterling’s beautiful pictorial book during our initial forray into the world of wine. Joy and I had corresponded prior to our trip as she was registered for the conference as well. Unfortunately, we did not connect with one another, but we were still pleased to make it to the winery to taste through a number of their spectacular sparkling wines. The tasting room is located outside with a wooden bar and a mountain top view with few, if any, rivals.

We stopped for a quick lunch at the nearby Underwood Bar & Bistro, at Valerie’s recommendation, known to be frequented by the local wine industry. The meal was nice, but rushed (my fault, not the restaurant’s) as I was anxious to get on the road and drive to the airport for our afternoon flight. We sidetracked the downtown traffic by taking the Bay Bridge instead this time and made it to the airport on time.

Taking stock, it was truly a terrific first visit to Sonoma and we know we will be back in the future. With 100s of wineries in the region, our visit to 17 leaves many more still to visit. Overall, I highly recommend a trip to Sonoma and would suggest the following tips when visiting such a long list of tasting rooms: Share tasting flights; Spit, don’t swallow; and Remember to eat.