Category Archives: Tasting Notes

Grand Cru Grapevine: A River Runs Through It (March 2009)

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With the excessively snow-filled season, I think most of us are ready for winter to be over. Accordingly, March’s arrival and its hints at Spring, which is yet to come, is most welcome. However, despite the bad weather, February found Grand Cru Classes keeping busy with media appearances and teaching opportunities.

In concert with Valentine’s Day, Tracy “appeared” on Big Blend magazine’s Champagne Sundays radio show in early February to talk about Sex, Wine & Chocolate. If you missed this broadcast, you can hear the interview online. She will be penning a new column for Big Blend magazine – Words of Winedom – under the title of Grand Cru Guru and will be periodically featured on their radio shows. Her next “appearance” will be April 27 at 3:30 PM EST on Eat, Drink & Be Merry on the topic of wines to accompany burgers & BBQ.

Also, while not wine related, both Tracy and Jared taped a segment for the Tyra Banks Show, which should air later this month.

Of course, live appearances included our Long Island wines class at City Winery, held on February 26. We are grateful to: Comtesse de Therese, Macari Vineyards, Martha Clara Vineyards, Peconic Bay Winery, Waters Crest and Wölffer Estate for their generosity and support in making this event a success!

Looking ahead, Sex, Wine & Chocolate returns to New York on March 19. Women only are invited to please join us at 7:00 PM for an evening of sensuality and decadence. Please see our website to sign up or see more details.

In addition, Tracy’s Great Grapes! series at New York University’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies begins March 24 at 6:30. As a reminder, registration is through NYU only.

And, for your drinking pleasure at home, this month we turn our attention to the wine regions scattered along the Loire River, which should delight your palate as well as your pocketbook.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick

COO: Cork Opening Officer

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

The Loire River is the longest navigable river in France, covering a distance of 629 miles and stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the center of France before heading south. Here, in the land of castles and Kings, French royalty would spend their summers in the countryside away from the hustle and bustle of Parisian city life, a precursor to the Hamptons summer season. From West to East, there are four wine areas within the greater Loire Valley region: Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine and Central Vineyards. With the vast distance covered, a diversity of climates, grapes and wines exist, making the river among the only threads that tie this large wine region together. However, despite their differences, most of these wines are quite food friendly and offer great value.

At the western coast, along the Atlantic Ocean, visitors find themselves in Nantes, where the Melon de Bourgogne grape is produced into Muscadet, a wine with dry, crisp acidity and citrus and mineral notes. The best wines hail from Sevre-et-Maine and are labeled as such. In addition, wines labeled “sur lie” are those which have sat on the lees (spent yeast cells) for at least six months, which imparts a yeastiness, and are generally richer and fuller-bodied. Muscadets pair beautifully with the shellfish which abound in the port, especially oysters and mussels.

Moving inland and east, the climate changes as do the grape varieties. In Anjou-Saumur, we find Chenin Blanc, which has versatility and then some, with the ability to produce outstanding wines in nearly all styles – dry, sweet, still, sparkling, youthful and aged. Dry whites include Savennieres (which is particularly age worthy) while Coteaux du Layon, Quarts de Chaume and Bonnezeaux are the product of grapes, which have been affected by noble rot, creating unctuous dessert wines. Sparkling wines from this area are made in both fully sparkling and petillant (1/2 pressure) styles. A profusion of rosés abound ranging from dry (Rosé de Loire) and slightly sweet (Cabernet d’Anjou and Cabernet de Saumur) to sweet (Rosé d’Anjou). In addition, some Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Gamay are grown here to produce dry, fruity light-bodied reds found under the appellations of AC Anjou, AC Saumur and AC Saumur-Champigny.

Further inland, Touraine sports a continental climate, with more extreme temperature variations from winter to summer. This is the largest area within the Loire, with a wide variety of wines produced. White wines range from the dry Sauvignon de Touraine and AC Touraine, both made from Sauvignon Blanc, to AC Vouvray, produced from 100% Chenin Blanc. As with the Chenin Blanc in Anjou-Saumur, Vouvrays may be dry, medium-sweet or sweet, and may be still or sparkling. The wine style may be designated on the label, i.e. sec (dry) or moelleux(sweet). High quality red wines, made from Cabernet Franc, tend to exhibit herbaceous and raspberry notes in AC Chinon, with similar, but fuller-bodied wines coming from AC Bourgeuil and AC St-Nicholas-de-Bourgeuil. Red wines labeled as AC Touraine are a blend of Gamay and Cabernet Franc.

At the furthest point east, the Central Vineyards serve as the heartland of Sauvignon Blanc, producing wines, which are more mineral and less fruit-forward than their New Zealand brethren, primarily due to the complex soils found here. Key appellations include: AC Sancerre, AC Pouilly Fume, AC Menetou-Salon, AC Quincy and AC Reuilly. With its reputation for high quality wines, Sancerre can become a little pricey, but these latter appellations are less well-known and are thus, generally less expensive. Produced in smaller quantities, red Sancerre is made from Pinot Noir, which makes sense given the region’s close proximity to Burgundy.

Tasting Notes

Bouvet Rosé Excellence Brut NV, Loire Valley, France, $13.00
This sparkling wine has a beautiful pale salmon color. Medium aromas of cotton candy, yeasty/leesy notes, floral/blossom and under-ripe strawberries. Dry with medium acidity and medium mousse, it has flavors of ripe strawberry, yeast and watermelon Jolly Rancher, along with its long length. 

Domaine Les Hautes Noëlles, Les Grange Muscadet sur lie, 2005, Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu, France, $10.00
A youthful wine with leesy aromas and notes of apple, citrus, it has medium+ acidity and medium body. The palate includes flavors of lime, yeast and minerality. 

Vincent Raimbault, Vouvray Sec 2004, Vouvray, France, $15.00
On the nose, the youthful aromas of apples, almond and lanolin linger, giving way to flavors of almond, apple and honey and crisp acidity on the palate.

Vincent Gaudry, Sancerre, Melodie de Vielles Vignes 2006 Sancerre, France $22.00
Produced from 50-year old vines, this wine has pronounced aromas of minerality, citrus and grapefruit. The medium+ acidity is joined by flavors of citrus and apple which persist on the palate, followed by a hint of stone in the finish.

Joguet Chinon Cuvee Terroir 2005 Touraine, France $18.00
The nose shows limited fruit notes of berries, oak and vanilla. In the mouth, it is dry, with ripe berry fruit, medium acidity, medium+ tannins, and herbal and woody notes in the finish.

Chateau de Fesle Bonnezeaux 2003, Anjou-Saumur, France, $63.00
This dessert wine provides developing aromas of apricot, orange peel, honey, floral and spice. It is medium sweet on the palate with medium+ acidity and pronounced flavors of apricot, honey, spice coupled by a nutty note underneath its long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: I Left My Heart in San Francisco (February 2009)

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Baby it’s cold outside! It’s the perfect time to stay indoors and open some wonderful wines, but eventually you may get stir crazy, so we have plenty of places for you to come hang out with us.

On February 26, Grand Cru Classes will present Long Island wines: From Potato Farms to Parker Points at the newly opened City Winery in Manhattan. We are very excited to partner with Michael Dorf on his project and look forward to a great event. Please register at City Winery online.

Two days later, Grand Cru Classes will import its Sex, Wine & Chocolate event to Washington, D.C. We’ll be at the beautifully-appointed Co Co Sala Chocolate Lounge, along with sexuality educator, Judith Steinhart, sipping wine, savoring chocolate and soaking up knowledge. We invite women-only to our noon session on Saturday, February 28, with a special session for couples-only presented at 3:00 PM. If you have friends, family or colleagues in the D.C. area, be sure and let them know we are on our way. And, save the date for the New York return on March 19, 2009. Details for this event are posted on our website.

Looking ahead, Tracy will reprise her Great Grapes! series through New York University’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies. The non-credit course will be offered on four consecutive Tuesdays, beginning March 24 at 6:30 and will feature Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir. Registration is through NYU only.

While we are waiting for Spring, our hearts and minds are back in California wine country, namely the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. With the restrictions on transporting liquids on planes, we no longer take wines home with us from our travels. Instead, we leave with heavy hearts as we bid goodbye to these wonderful wine regions, but know we will be back.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick

COO: Cork Opening Officer

I LEFT MY HEART IN SAN FRANCISCO

Napa Fog The popular song, “I Left My Heart in San Francisco,” made famous by Tony Bennett, is certainly apropos in many regards this month. As singer of the song, Tony longed to be back home, foreswearing both Paris and New York for his love that “…waits there in San Francisco.” Such passionate love, whether for a grand city or a lover, is certainly in keeping with the arrival of Valentine’s Day this month.

But beyond such love, Tony’s devotional also unwittingly mentions so many of the important aspects that make the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, which lie north of San Francisco, such great wine growing regions. His, “…city by the bay…” brings cool air, where “[t]he morning fog may chill the air…above the blue and windy sea…” and its “…golden sun will shine…” Truly, it is the climate, shaped so dramatically by the mountains, water and fog, that positively impacts the quality of the grapes.

Situated beneath the mountains, the Napa Valley is bounded on both sides with the Mayacamas range to the West and the Vaca range to the East. Moreover, the Napa Valley sits to the west of the hot and dry climate of the San Joaquin Valley (aka Central Valley), where much of California’s bulk wine is produced. In the early morning, the high heat from the Central Valley draws the cool air and moisture from the Pacific Ocean into the San Francisco Bay and then up the Napa Valley, cooling the area as it rolls in. This marine influence has differing results as one works their way up the 30-mile long valley, finding a difference of as much as 1oF/mile, with the southern end experiencing lower temperatures and increased rainfall when compared to the northern end, up near Calistoga. By noon, the fog has burned off and the valley is warm, with plenty of sunshine to fully ripen the grapes each year.

The southern end, known as the appellation of Carneros, spans both Napa and Sonoma and maintains the coolest climate of the region. Here, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay truly shine. Further up in Napa, we find Cabernet Sauvignon and, again Chardonnay, but generally produced in a different style. Whereas the Carneros Chardonnays are elegant and restrained, the wines from upper Napa are fuller-bodied and richer in character due to the warmer climate. Other varietals also are grown in Napa including Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. High above the valley floor, the mountain appellations lie above the fog, with grapes receiving more sunlight and a warmer overnight temperature. As a result, these are wines with a darkness and intensity to them balanced with good acidity and tannins that are well polished. The most produced wine in these areas tends to be Cabernet Sauvignon and similarly, Bordeaux-style blends, in which Cabernet Sauvignon plays a significant role.

The larger, Sonoma Valley is a region of polyculture, not just viticulture, growing a wide range of produce and playing host to numerous farms. The areas closer to the coastline are tempered by the marine air, while areas further inland maintain higher temperatures. Consequently, some sub-regions are particularly well-suited for given grape varieties. More specifically, the Alexander Valley is vaunted for its Cabernet Sauvignons, while Rockpile is prized for Zinfandel. The Russian River Valley is another area known for cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, while the warmer and drier Dry Creek Valley is home to Rhone varietals (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre) and Zinfandel.

Tasting Notes

Dutton-Goldfield, Shop Block Pinot Blanc 2007, Green Valley, CA, $25.00
Celebrating its 10th anniversary in 2008, Dutton-Goldfield is the partnership of vineyard owner/manager, Steve Dutton, and winemaker, Dan Goldfield, in producing small lot, cool climate wines in the Russian River Valley. As a sub-AVA, the Green Valley is hailed as, “the coolest, foggiest region of the Russian River Valley.” Their Pinot Blanc has citrus, floral and stone aromas, with a dry, medium-bodied palate. Bright fruit flavors of citrus and apple coexist with muted notes of minerality.

Frank Family Vineyards, Chardonnay 2006, Napa Valley, CA, $32.50
This is a beautifully-made Chardonnay with aromas of apple and floral notes. Medium-bodied on the palate, it has flavors of apple and white flower and only a limited perception of integrated oak.

Robert Mondavi Winery, Fume Blanc Reserve 2006, To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville, CA, $45.00
From the famed To Kalon vineyard, this 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Semillon blend has youthful aromas of grapefruit, hay and wet stone, opening up to peach. On the palate, it is dry with medium+ acidity, medium body, white grapefruit, stone and peach notes, finishing with a touch of yeast in the long length. 

Coturri, Jewell Vineyard, Pinot Noir 2005, Sonoma Mountain, CA, $30.00
While the wines aren’t labeled as such, Coturri is a biodynamic producer, believing that organic production isn’t the stuff of marketing, but rather, it’s the only way to make wine. This elegant Pinot hails from 60-year old vines and has raspberry and herbal aromas. Dry, with lively acidity, medium body and medium tannins, its flavors of raspberry and black cherry, coupled with pleasant herbaceousness, are very concentrated throughout the palate. 

Seghesio, Zinfandel 2005, Rockpile, CA $36.00
Known for its Zinfandels, Seghesio produces a range from different appellations and vineyards. The Rockpile rendition is spicy and juicy, with medium body, medium acidity, ripe tannins and rich flavors of spice, blueberry and blackberry.

CADE Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Howell Mountain, CA, $60.00
Made in small quantities (only 400 cases), this wine comes from 9 year old vines grown at a 2,000 foot elevation, which is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Merlot to soften the wine. Aromas include menthol, along with some blackberry fruit in the background and oak. The dry palate displays medium acidity, high tannins and flavors of blackberry, oak and coffee.

NB: The wines selected for this month’s newsletter carry higher average prices than our usual selections, but we believe that these wines deliver excellent quality, while still providing good value. There are significant numbers of lower-priced California wines, most of which are commercially-made, cheap and cheerful wines with grapes sourced from throughout the state. With the high cost of land values in Napa and Sonoma, it is costlier to make great, artisanal wines, as these represent. Yet, with people choosing to stay in more frequently, as opposed to dining out, these wine costs provide you with the ability to trade up, while still keeping expenses reasonable.

Grand Cru Grapevine: It’s All Greek to Me (January 2009)

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Welcome to 2009! A new year always heralds the start of something big and for Grand Cru Classes, 2009 is no exception. This month we launch our recently revamped website and newsletter. Our website URL remains the same (www.GrandCruClasses.com), but the new site is much improved and finally completes our rebrand to the beautiful logo designed by May Matta-Aliah of Red Dot Solutions. 

As we bid goodbye to 2008, we began our partnership with Judith Steinhart and introduced our Sex, Wine & Chocolate event, which was a huge success for this first effort. We welcomed 20 participants to the inaugural presentation and were delighted to feature Alexander Valley Vineyards’ aptly named Temptation Zin (Zinfandel); Banfi Vintners’ beautifully-hued sparkler, Rosa Regale; and Godiva Chocolatier’s decadent chocolates and truffles (with special thank yous to Andrew Feigelman, Sharon McCarthy and Traci Schiffer, respectively, for their gracious support of this event). No specific plans have as yet been made, but we do plan to reprise this event in the future and have even received an inquiry to bring the event to Washington, D.C. We also thank the attendees for their candid and thoughtful feedback, which will certainly be useful as we improve future presentations of this fun and festive event. There’s a synopsis of the event on Tracy’s blog. 

Other year-end festivities included the comedy debut of our own Tracy Ellen Kamens, who killed (in comedy, that’s a good thing) at her graduation show and was invited to participate in a New Talent Showcase at Comix on Tuesday, February 3 at 7:00 PM. (Call 212-524-2500 and mention Tracy’s name or book online.) 

Tracy’s other accomplishments include her induction into the Wine Media Guild and receipt of the Greek Wine Ambassador title and certification from Wines of Greece. In this vein, we turn this month’s attention to just that…wines from Greece. 

Drink wisely and well, 

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer 

IT’S ALL GREEK TO ME
Last May, I had the wonderful opportunity to attend a seminar hosted by Wines from Greece. The illustrious panel included Steven Olsen (aka Wine Geek), Doug Frost, MW, MS (author and consultant); Roger Daghorn (sommelier from Chanterelle restaurant); Tara Thomas (journalist and author); Michael Weiss (Director of Wine Studies at the Culinary Institute of America) and Sophia Perpera (oenologist and founder, All About Greek Wine). 

While Greek wines haven’t made big headlines in recent years, Greece has a long vinous history dating back 4,000 years and is actually considered to be the birthplace of food and wine as a culture. Among its more well-known wine exports is Retsina, which owes its unique flavor to its infusion with pine resin. While not most people’s preference, traditionally, this process actually served a purpose, acting as a preservative and preventing oxidation long before the advent of refrigeration and other modern technology. Other additives, such as opiates, were also common in ancient Greece, which gave rise to those bacchanalian parties. As further evidence of its forward thinking, Greece also pioneered the concept of using specific vessels for specific wines long before Riedel crafted his first crystal stemware. Moreover, antique amphorae also sported the first wine labels, with seals indicating the vintner, vintage, etc 

But, it wasn’t until more modern history that Greece has once again become a world class producer of wine. Previously, wines were high in alcohol, low in acidity and prone to oxidation due in part to poor winemaking, high yields and over-oaking. Conversely, today, Greek wines are clean and fresh, with balanced structure and acidity and are quite food friendly. Combining Old World tradition with New World technology, many producers are using indigenous grapes grown at low yields and applying new technologies such as refrigeration to produce high quality wines. 

Geographically, Greece resembles an outstretched hand, reaching into the water. Located within the Mediterranean Sea, Greece is a country primarily made up of volcanic islands and qualifying as the third most mountainous country in Europe. Not surprisingly, this is a country whose vineyards are made up of small plots of land with ancient soils, in isolated areas and at high elevations (among the highest in the world, second only to Argentina). Given its maritime location, it has a Mediterranean climate, with a heavy influence from the sea. In fact, low rainfall plagues most of Greece, with moisture coming from fog instead. 

Home to over 300 indigenous grapes that have been catalogued, Greece provides great diversity and originality in its wines. Yes, you can find the usual suspects – Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – but more importantly, and more significantly, are grapes such as Roditis, Assyrtiko, Agiorghitiko and Xinomavro. 

Amidst the Aegean Islands, Santorini seems like an unlikely place for wine production. Here, soils are a mix of volcanic and minced rock while the climate is extremely dry and windy, so much so that vines must be trained low to the ground in a circular pattern, resembling a woven basket. Yet despite this inhospitable climate, Assyrtiko thrives, producing wines with vibrant acidity and minerality that develop a beautiful richness over time. Among other whites, Athiri grapes are grown in Rhodes and Santorini, providing wines with low acidity, good weight and high aromatics. Roditis is the grape best known for the wines from Patras, which are elegant, light white wines, displaying notes of citrus flavors. 

Red grape star Agiorgitiko provides dark color and soft tannins and results in wines with a roundness and balance similar to Pinot Noir. Found in Nemea (the largest red wine appellation in Greece), on the Peleponnese, these wines can be aged and have nice acidity and good aromatics. Another well-respected red variety is Xinomavro, which loosely translates as sour black. This grape is grown in Naoussa within the region of Macedonia, and is responsible in part for the blend in Rapsani on Mount Olympus. 

Greece is also known for its dessert wines. Mavrodaphne grapes are generally used to produce sweet, fortified wines that are similar in style to ruby Ports. Other sweet Greek wines include Muscats of Samos as well as those from Rion and Patras, with notes of apricot, honey, orange peel and spice. 

The wine renaissance taking place in modern Greece is long overdue, but well worth the wait. And, just in time, too, as Greek food has become an important trend in Metropolitan restaurants. In fact, according to Olsen, New York Magazine declared that “octopus is the new calamari.” But, regardless of what you order, Greek wines are food friendly wines that can pair easily with a wealth of cuisines. And, with your newly acquired knowledge, reviewing a list of Greek wines should no longer have you saying, “It’s all Greek to me.” 

Tasting Notes

 

 

Emery, Athiri, VDQS Rhodes, 2007, Rhodes, Greece, $14.00
A whitewine with intense aromatics of citrus, peach and slight mineral notes, the palate is dry with medium acidity and flavors of citrus, an herbal undercurrent and some floral notes.  

Tselepos, Mantinia VDQS, 2007, Mantinia/Peloponnese, Greece, $17.00
From the Moschofilero grape, floral, spice, peach and pear notes are immediately evident in this highly aromatic wine. On the palate, it has high acidity and long length, which harmonize with the wine’s complex flavors of strawberry, nectarine, jasmine and ginger, making it extremely versatile for food matching.  

Sigalas, Santorini VDQS, 2007, Santorini/Aegean Islands, Greece, $19.00
Produced from Assyrtiko grapes, this wine has herbal and citrus aromas on the nose. It is dry, with medium acidity, and good concentrated fruit flavors of peach and herbs, culminating in a long length. 

Gaia Estate, Nemea VDQS, 2005, Nemea/Peloponnese, Greece, $35.00
Aromas of black fruit, cherry, spice and wood greet the nose. This dry and well structured red wine, made from Agiorghitiko grapes, has medium acidity with a medium+ body and ripe tannins. Fruit-forward, explosive flavors of wood, blackberry, spice and oak persist on the palate.  

Boutari, Grande Reserve, Naoussa VDQS, 2001, Naoussa/Macedonia, Greece, $22.00
Produced from the Xinomavro grape, this is a very aromatic red wine, with notes of black cherry, herbal, dried fruits and tar that echo on the palate. Dry and full bodied, it has grippy, but ripe tannins with bright acidity and long length. Rich and complex with black olives, dried tomatoes and concentrated fruit, the wine is still young and could use some additional age. It would pair well with gamey meat and hard cheeses.

Smythson of Bond St – Wine Memoranda: Best Gift I am Sorry to Use Up

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For my birthday last month, my sister presented me with a small bag from the esteemed leather goods store, Smythson of Bond Street. Upon opening the package, I discoverd a pocket-sized folio for taking wine notes — a wine lover’s dream.

The sleek, black book is imprinted with Wine Memoranda in gold lettering on the cover and is elegant enough to use at high end tastings, dinners and winery visits.

I christened the book on a recent trip to Sonoma, where I visited 16 wineries. While familiar with Smythson in name only prior to its receipt, I quickly became a devoted fan of its featherweight paper and binding. Part of its Panama line, this copyrighted paper makes the book very lightweight and easy to use. The pre-printed categories work well for both novices and wine professionals, with headings for wine name, vintage, grower, country/region, price, recommendation, remarks and tasting date. The remarks section provides ample room for notes on aromas, flavors and structure, regardless of one’s preferred method or format. In addition, the book is divided into three sections — White, Red & Other — providing some categorization of one’s notes.

However, with an average of five wines tasted at each winery and some as many as nine, the pages quickly began to fill and I feared that I would use up all of the space before the trip was completed. Accordingly, I began to be more frugal with the wines I chose to write up and listed several similar wines (i.e. 4 single-vineyard Pinot Noirs) from the same winery on a single page.

My Other section is completely blank because I did not taste any roses on this trip. Perhaps I could have used it for fortified and/or sparkling wines as well, but too late now.

While I do indeed have remaining space, I am sorry it is so limited as I envisioned being able to keep the book in my purse at all times to use it for wine notes at restaurants, wine shops, etc. I still can, of course, but my time with the book will come to an end all too soon and at $75.00 (or more?) I am loathe to replace it myself.

However, with the holidays coming up, if you have an oenophile on your gift list, this is a perfect present and with 64 pages, most (non-wine industry) people probably won’t use it up quite so quickly.