Category Archives: Tasting Notes

Grand Cru Grapevine: Getting down and dirty (September 2009)

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As summer comes to an end, the North Fork is gearing up for harvest and will soon be ready to get down and dirty in the vineyard. If you are heading out to the North Fork this Fall season, you are sure to get caught up in the season’s excitement.

Grand Cru Classes is buzzing with its own excitement as we debut our new Where the (Wine) Bargains Are class on September 13 at 2:00 PM, joining our ever-popular From Vine to Wine class and others on the schedule. In addition, we will be presenting a five-week wine appreciation series for the Town of Riverhead’s Department of Recreation. If you can’t make it out East, you can catch Tracy at NYU where she will teach two classes: Exploring Italian Wines from North to South (5-weeks beginning October 6) and Seven Wines That Will Devastate Your Friends (one session – November 17). See NYU’s website to register.

Aside from teaching classes, we are thrilled to be bottling our first wine, produced from neighbor Macari Vineyards’ grapes from the vaunted 2007 harvest. This wine is not available for sale, but has been a wonderful opportunity for Jared and two friends to get hands-on experience in winemaking.

On a final note, we are pleased to announce the following special offer. The French Wine Society will host its 2nd annual conference this October 4-7 in Washington D.C. In addition to in-depth seminars, the conference will also include the launch of the Cheeses of France Academy (and its teaching materials), the French Wine Scholar certification exam, along with Master-Level certificate exams for both the Rhône Valley and Provence. The French Wine Society is extending a 10% discount to Grand Cru Grapevine subscribers. Please use discount code: RIUT6B when registering for the conference. For more details on the conference, please see the French Wine Society’s website.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

GETTING DOWN AND DIRTY

With harvest just around the corner, the vineyards will be filled with workers. While certainly imbued with more romance than harvesting other fruit, picking grapes is hard work, requiring pickers to stoop and bend as they examine each cluster before cutting it from the vine. By the end of the day, the harvest workers will be covered in sweat and dirt. 

And, as Ronnie LaCroute, proprietor of WillaKenzie Estate in Oregon, states in her email signature file, “Dirt Matters.” In fact, soil is one of the major factors that influence winemaking. Some of the influence is simple. For example, dark soils help to retain heat overnight, while white-colored soils can reflect the sunlight onto the grapes, ensuring ripeness in an otherwise marginal climate. More complex is the influence of the soil content on the finished wine whereby the mineral content is often reflected in the flavor profile of the wines, creating wines that truly taste of the terroir (place they were grown and made). Consequently, throughout the world, there are key soils that are highly prized.

Here are just a few examples of how “dirt matters”. In Champagne, the calcareous soils are high in calcium and help the grapes to retain their natural acidity. Elsewhere in France, the assortment of limestone, silex and gravel are felt to account for flint and mineral notes in Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs, especially those from Sancerre. Within Australia, Coonawarra is known for producing Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, the high quality of which is attributed to the terra rossa soils found there. Terra rossa is a red-colored soil, which consists of clay over limestone, providing good drainage. On New Zealand’s North Island in Hawkes Bay, an area known as Gimblett Gravels is among the first appellations in the New World truly based on terroir rather than political boundaries. After the Ngaruroro River flooded in the 1860s, dry beds of gravel were exposed. The vineyard land, mainly planted to Bordeaux varieties, forces the vines to go extremely deep to find water and results in high quality wines.

Regardless of the region and the soils present in the area, the grape variety, climate, annual weather conditions, viticultural practices and vinification techniques also play an important role in winemaking. These factors, coupled with the soil type, will ultimately be responsible for influencing what ends up in the glass.

Tasting Notes

St. Urbans-hof, Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett 2008, Mosel, Germany, $17.00
The term “kabinett” refers to the ripeness level of the grapes at harvest, with kabinett being the starting point of the scale, which is reserved for quality wines only. Aromas include typical Riesling notes of floral and peach. On the palate, the wine is off-dry, with flavors of peach and a mineral undercurrent.

Benjamin Vieux, Château Gaubert, Graves Blanc 2005, Bordeaux, France, $17.00
Graves is the French word for gravel and this area within Bordeaux has a large concentration of gravel within its soils that help with drainage. Produced from a blend of 60% Semillon and 40% Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is starting to show some development with aromas of yeast, apple and honey. Dry, with crisp acidity, it shows flavors of yeast, oak, smokiness and citrus, culminating in long length. 

WillaKenzie Estate, Pierre-Léon Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley (Oregon), US, $38.00
WillaKenzie, a type of soil that originates from the pushed up sea floor is found in the Willamette Valley’s Yamhill-Carlton and Ribbon Ridge areas. With a beautifully perfumed nose accompanied by a note of fresh raspberries, this wine continues to deliver on the palate with raspberry, earth, minerality and an undercurrent of wet leaves. 

Cakebread Merlot 2005, Napa Valley (California), US $54.00
This Merlot is blended with 22% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Syrah with fruit sourced from Rutherford, Oakville and Calistoga. Notes of red and black fruits along with cinnamon/spice greet the nose. Aged for 18 months in French oak barrels (45% of which were new), the vibrant acidity and medium tannins on the palate are well balanced with flavors of cherry, slight earth, and spice.

Vilafonte Series C 2004, Stellenbosch, South Africa, $59.00
A collaboration between South African producer Warwick Estates and famed California winemaker Zelma Long, Vilafonte is named for a soil type. The “Series C” is a blend heavy on Cabernet Sauvignon (Series M is more Merlot based) with aromas of currant, vanilla, black fruits. On the palate, black currant, herbal and coffee notes comingle with firm tannins, finishing with long length.

Gentlemen prefer blondes – Xavier Flouret French Blonde

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They say gentlemen prefer blondes. Here, the “blonde” in question is Xavier Flouret’s French Blonde.

This wine hails from Sancerre, a wine region located within the Central Vineyards section of France’s Loire Valley. As an appellation wine from Sancerre, the wine is produced from 100% Sauvignon Blanc.

Distributed by Cognac One, the Xavier Flouret Wines consist of a curated portfolio of boutique wines from established family vineyards around the world. In the case of the French Blonde, the wines are crafted by the Chatelain family, which has been growing vines since 1630, with the 12th generation family members – Jean-Claude Chatelain and son Vincent – currently at the helm. The vines themselves average 30 years old.

The wine was fermented in stainless steel neither adding nor subtracting flavor from this aromatic grape variety, followed by four months of ageing on the lees (spent yeast cells), and two month bottle ageing before release.

On the nose, the wine displays youthful citrus/lime aromas. On the palate, it has vibrant acidity with concentrated fruit flavors of lime, grapefruit and hay, finishing with a slight undercurrent of stone.

From Croatia with love – Plavac Mali

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Decanter’s World Wine Awards were announced earlier this week, with Angela Muir MW (regional chair for Central and Eastern European wines) noting that, “Croatia really was the discovery of this year.”
In fact, Croatian wines brought home 27 medals in all: 8 Gold, 5 Silver, 11 Bronze and 3 commended.

Among the winners, the Zlatan Plavac Mali Barrique received a Silver medal for its 2006 vintage. The Plavac Mali grape originated in Croatia as a cross between Zinfandel and another indigenous grape, Dobricic. In general, Plavac Mali produces wines that have high tannins, high alcohol, deep color and can age well. While Croatian wines still aren’t prevalent in the U.S. market, several Plavac Mali wines are available in the U.S.

Dingac Ivo Plavac Mali 2006
100% Plavac Mali
Dingac Region, Dalmatia, Croatia
Astor Wines – $16.00 (2007 vintage)
From the Dingac region, an island off the coast of Croatia, this wine spends 18 months is Slovenian oak and displays red fruit and herbal notes, with long length.

Lirica Plavac Mali 2005
100% Plavac Mali
Dingac Region, Dalmatia, Croatia
Crush Wine Co – $22.00 (2007 vintage)
Produced in stainless steel, this wine has an earthy nose with vibrant acidity and firm, but ripe, tannins and earth and cherry flavors on the palate.

Zlatan Plavac Barrique 2007
100% Plavac Mali
Island of Hvar, Dalmatia, Croatia
Columbus Circle Wines – $44.00 (2005 vintage)
Cultivated on 45-degree slopes along the coast, this wine spends 12 months in oak. Dry with herbal, earth and berries, oak, ripe tannins, long length.

Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru 2005
100% Plavac Mali
Island of Hvar, Dalmatia, Croatia
Mt. Carmel Wines – $48.00 (2004 vintage)
From 50 year-old vines, this wine is aged in new barriques for 18 months. Its nose is earthy, herbal and red fruits. On the palate, it is concentrated with berries, tobacco and herbs. Needs time for the tannins to soften.

For more info: See the importer’s website for maps and more information on the region.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Oregon, but not forgotten (August 2009)

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As mentioned previously, we had the wonderful opportunity to visit Oregon in May of this year, visiting downtown Portland as well as spending time in the Willamette Valley. This wine region is producing spectacular wines and, while we have left the area, the memories of its wines are certainly not forgotten. To that end, we revisit its history and provide you with a brief introduction this month.

Among other travels, Tracy has just returned from Sacramento where she attended the Society of Wine Educators’ annual conference, reconnected with many colleagues and participated in a wide variety of educational seminars. Meanwhile, Jared has completed the last of the infrastructure projects for our educational vineyard, installing several hundred feet of irrigation hose. True to Murphy’s Law, the continued downpour has precluded the need for irrigation this year.

Apropos all of the rain, we have been busy offering our services at a number of bridal showers and, additionally, have created a new theme for bachelorette parties – Aphrodite meets Bacchus & Lady Godiva. If you are planning a wedding celebration, let us help you design the perfect wine-themed event.

On a final note, we will be placing a new order for Schott-Zwiesel titanium crystal and invite you to add to your own stemware collection. You may have seen us strike these amazing glasses against our granite counter-top and held your breath as you expected them to break only to watch them remain perfectly intact. This stemware is available in a wide range of styles from classic to modern and can be purchased for as little as $8.00/stem, plus shipping and handling. We’ll soon add more details to our website, so please check back if you are interested in placing an order, or email us directly for a catalog.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

OREGON, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN

Despite its youth as a wine-producing state, Oregon has become nearly synonymous with quality wine and notably its Pinot Noir. Yet, only a few decades ago, early settlers were laughed at by their peers. In 1966, David Lett was fresh out of UC Davis and determined to plant a vineyard and begin making wine. He found what he felt to be suitable land in the Dundee Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, founding the Eyrie Vineyard in 1970, and the rest, as they say, is history. 

David was joined by other wine pioneers shortly thereafter, setting the stage for this nascent wine region. Seeing similarity between their terroir and that of Burgundy (heartland of Pinot Noir), they set about crafting wines that emulated these icons while respecting their own unique soils and climate. Perhaps the most ringing endorsement of their success was the investment made by a top Burgundy négociant and producer, Maison Joseph Drouhin, when it established Domaine Drouhin in Willamette in 1988. Today, Oregon ranks as the fourth largest in U.S. wine production and its wines are highly acclaimed both here and abroad.

While wine regions exist in Oregon’s other valleys – namely Umpqua and Rogue, it is the Willamette Valley that has achieved the most fame. Situated only one hour from Portland, the Willamette is divided into six sub-appellations: Dundee Hills, Ribbon Ridge, Eola Amity Hills, McMinneville, Yamhill-Carlton District and Chehalem Mountains. Beyond Pinot Noir, the Willamette is also known for its Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and sparkling wines. To a lesser extent, some producers are working with Rhone varieties – Syrah and Viognier, most of which is sourced from the warmer Rogue Valley in southern Oregon.

Unfortunately, Oregon Pinot Noir can be quite pricey, due to its limited, labor-intensive, quality-conscious production. However, among New World Pinot Noirs, they are considered to be among the best. Thus, you will be well rewarded for your investment. At the more affordable end, A to Z Wineworks, WillaKenzie and Anne Amie’s Cuvée A provide good value. If you are feeling more flush and wish to splurge a bit, seek out Elk Cove, Bergström, and Cristom.

Tasting Notes

Adelsheim, Pinot Blanc 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $22.00
Among the early pioneers, Adelsheim was established in 1971. Its Pinot Blanc shows citrus, mineral and pear aromas. On the palate, it is dry with medium acidity, medium body and notes of citrus and minerality. 

Anne Amie, Cuvée A Amrita 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $16.00
Named for the Buddhist equivalent of ambrosia, Amrita is a white blend of Pinot Blanc (47%), Muller-Thurgau (25%), Chardonnay (15%), and Riesling (13%). Aromas of tropical fruit and grass give way to a dry palate with citrus and herbal flavors. 1,700 cases produced. 

Jezebel, Pinot Noir 2007, Oregon, $18.00
From Daedalus Cellars, Jezebel is produced as their second label, with grapes sourced from throughout the state for wines intended to be drunk early in their life. This Pinot Noir displays aromas and flavors of barnyard, raspberry and earth. 

Bergström, de Lancellotti Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Chehalem Mountains, OR, $65.00
With a focus on vineyard expression, Bergstrom produces several vineyard designate Pinot Noirs. The de Lancellotti Vineyard shows floral, raspberry and stone aromas and flavors, which combine with an earthy undercurrent that persists throughout its long length. 455 cases produced.

Penner-Ash, Syrah 2006, Oregon, $32.00
Produced in the northern Rhone Valley tradition, this Syrah is co-fermented with 1.5% Viognier. The nose is a mix of plum, berries and floral. Its dry, medium+-bodied palate has a nice, ripe tannic grip with flavors of plum, spice and leather, culminating in long length.

Amity Vineyards, Late Estate Harvest Riesling 2004, Willamette Valley, OR, $15.00 (375 ml)
Owner Myron Redford began making wine in the Eola-Amity appellation in 1974. His late harvest Riesling offers peach, apricot and honey aromas on the nose, joined by developing and floral notes in the mouth. A true dessert wine, it provides significant sweetness on the palate, which is beautifully balanced with vibrant acidity.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Do you speak wine label? (July 2009)

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Among my many goals in life is to become fluent in French. Yet, sometimes even when you speak/read the same language, it can still be difficult to translate the precise meaning of the words in front of you. If this sounds like you in the wine store, this month’s newsletter will help you become bilingual — you’ll learn how to speak wine label.

In the same vein of continuing education, Tracy will head to Sacramento later this month for the Society of Wine Educators (SWE) annual conference. Arriving prior to the start of the main conference activities, she will co-facilitate the society’s Certified Wine Educator Preview course, before immersing herself in three full days of wine seminars.

Grand Cru Classes proctored SWE’s first level exam – the Certified Specialist of Wine – this past April. The self-tutorial course is appropriate for both enthusiasts and wine trade, alike. We may schedule future test dates at our Mattituck facility, so if you have an interest in sitting for this exam, please let us know.

Finally, we are thrilled to announce the launch of two new classes. Where the Bargains Are: The Best Wines for the Budget-Conscious will join our class schedule in August and All that Glitters is not Champagne, which will focus on bargain bubblies, will debut in October, just in time for holiday party planning.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

DO YOU SPEAK WINE LABEL?

Wandering through the wine store’s aisles, a wombat stares at you from the shelf. You stare back. You wonder what the furry critter has to do with wine, but he keeps staring and is, in fact, quite cute. You decide to take him (and the bottle) home. Besides, you really don’t know what all of the other text on the label is really telling you, so why not choose a wine by its label? Admittedly, wine labels can indeed be quite confusing if you don’t know what to look for. However, with this simple tutorial, you can easily crack their code. 

What’s in a name?
First, we’ll start with the front label, which usually includes the name of the producer, name of the wine (if applicable)/grape variety, vintage and origin. The name of the producer is generally synonymous with the brand, i.e. Kendall-Jackson. If the wine contains a minimum of 75% of one particular grape (with higher percentages required in Oregon and the EU), the grape variety may be named on the label. If the respective minimum is not met, such as the case with wines blended from several different grapes, a wine may have a fantasy name, i.e. Insignia (from producer Joseph Phelps), which is simply a made-up name used to differentiate or designate a given wine. 

A vintage year
The vintage refers to the year in which the grapes were harvested, which may not the year the wine is released. If grapes from multiple harvests are blended together, the wine is considered to be non-vintage, usually abbreviated NV. This is very common in Champagne and Port, where vintages are only declared in great years.

I come from a land down under
Another important piece of information is its appellation of origin – the name of the place where the grapes were grown. Depending upon how large a net was cast, so to speak, the origin can be as big as a single country or as small as a named vineyard (which will also include the area in which the vineyard is located). In the U.S., our officially recognized wine regions are known as American Viticultural Areas (AVAs for short). In order to use a particular appellation of origin, a required minimum percentage of the grapes must come from that country, state or county (and their foreign equivalents). A higher proportion of grapes from a particular AVA is required to use the name of the AVA on the label.

I guarantee it
If a wine is labeled as Estate Bottled, 100% of the grapes were grown on land owned or controlled by the producer and located within a viticultural area and the wine was wholly made on the producer’s premises, which must lie within the same viticultural area as the grapes.

The rub with alcohol
Also on the label is the alcohol content, expressed as alcohol by volume. There are an increasing number of high (above 13.5%) alcohol wines on the market (frequently due to higher ripeness levels at harvest), and with slight fluctuations permitted, actual alcohol levels in that 15.5% labeled wine might really be closer to 16%. This may account for why the same one glass of wine with dinner now knocks you out.

Over there
In Europe, winemaking is a much older, more established art. Consequently, wines are entrenched in their particular regions and must adhere to strict laws, which permit what they can do and restrict what they can’t. Deviations from these laws mean that the wine in question may no longer be labeled as a quality wine, but rather as a table wine. Quality wines are labeled with the origin of appellation, but do not generally feature the grape varieties on the label, although this addition seems to be changing, at least for wines bottled for the U.S. Therefore, these wines are a bit more difficult to decipher if you are not familiar with the grape varieties and/or wine styles in that region. All the more reason to find a good local wine store and ask questions (or take a wine class with us). 

Now that you know how to read a wine label, you’ll be able to make a more informed decision about buying that wombat.

Tasting Notes

Some warm weather wines to cool you off this summer.

Badger Mountain Vineyards Pure White NV, Columbia Valley, WA, USA, $22.00 (3 liter)
An organic white in a box, this blend of 60% Semillon and 40% Muller-Thurgau has a very floral nose followed by a clean and citrus medium-bodied palate with a hint of herbal character.

Frederic Mallo Selections, Pinot Blanc “Special Delivery”, 2006, Alsace, France, $12.99
This slightly off-dry wine has lots of ripe, peach notes with a medium-full body and nice minerality.

Volteo, Viura + Viognier 2008, Vinho de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain, $9.00
A blend of Viura and Viognier, along with some Sauvignon Blanc, this easy-quaffing wine provides youthful aromas of citrus and tropical fruit, while the dry palate has flavors of citrus, peach and peach pit.

Domaine Spiropoulos Meliasto 2008, Peloponnese, Greece, $12.99
This dry rose hails from mainland Greece and is comprised of 70% of the indigenous Moschofilero grape. Almost Gewurztraminer-like on the nose, the wine presents with aromas of spice, lychee and floral, which are followed by similar flavors on the palate, culminating in a long length.

Orleans Hill, Zinfandel 2007, Amador County, CA, USA, $9.95
This sulfite-free, organic wine has bright berry aromas with a medium+ body and notes of raspberry and earth, along with an herbal undercurrent.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Back to the Futures (June 2009)

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In the film, Back to the Future, Marty McFly heads to the past (1955 to be exact), but must travel back to the future (1985) to avoid tampering with history. Conversely, the Bordelais winemakers constantly look to the future – the future of their wine – on the open market. Like other commodities, understanding wine futures can be somewhat complicated, so we endeavor to explain the annual en primeur campaign, as it is known, which kicks off this month.

Firmly rooted in the present, Grand Cru Classes has just returned from a fabulous trip to Oregon’s Willamette Valley. It was a wonderful weekend of Pinot Noir, with visits to a number of wineries, most notably Willakenzie Estate and Anne Amie. If you have the opportunity to visit this wine region, we highly recommend it.

However, if you are staying closer to home these days, why not visit the wineries out on the North Fork of Long Island, stopping by to take a class with us before hitting the tasting rooms? Our Long Island Wines: From Potatoes to Parker Points is a terrific overview to the region’s history, while our From Vine to Wine class serves as a solid foundation of wine knowledge. Please visit our website for a full schedule of public classes. Alternately, let us bring our Personal Wine Party or other wine event to your home, office or other venue of your choosing.

And, for wine updates in between our monthly newsletters, sign up for email alerts for Tracy’s NY Wine Shopping Examiner column on Examiner.com.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

BACK TO THE FUTURES

Would a clothing manufacturer create a new fashion line and then hold it in a warehouse for over a year, taking up costly space and not producing revenue? Of course not. It seems like such a foolish business model, but that is exactly what happens with most wineries. Grapes are harvested in Year X, but many wines, especially reds, aren’t bottled and released until Year X+2 (or even longer in some cases). Accordingly, wineries must wait several years before they can realize income on a given vintage.

In an effort to increase cash flow during this waiting period while the wines mature in barrel, France’s Bordeaux region adopted the practice of selling futures. Wine merchants are invited to taste barrel samples, a full year before release and then purchase them ahead of time. Like any investment, it is not without some inherent risks – the wines will change over the course of the year, prices may go down, currencies fluctuate, etc. Yet, the potential rewards are securing highly coveted wines before they are sold out and possibly at a lower price than when they are released.

Each April, merchants and journalists descend upon Bordeaux to taste the wines, with prices set by the producers (aka the chateaux) several months later. In the meantime, the critics make their pronouncement on the overall quality of the vintage and publish tasting notes and scores on individual wines. As with other wine ratings, these can often make or break a futures campaign and will also impact pricing. The “blue chip” wines are generally those that were classified (Grand Cru Classé) in 1855, but many other producers have established reputations as well and consequently command high prices for their wines.

The Bordeaux futures campaign kicks off sales to consumers in June, with some of the large retail stores offering a selection of wines from the vintage – in this case 2008, which has been well regarded by wine journalists (but not extolled). Wines ordered now will be delivered in the latter half of 2011. While some have suggested that there is no need to buy futures this year, if you do choose to purchase Bordeaux futures, it is extremely important to find a reputable merchant to ensure that you will indeed receive your wines; scams in this arena are not uncommon. And, unless you are Marty McFly, you will have difficulty going back to 2009 to undo your purchase.

Tasting Notes

Château Bonnet, Bordeaux Blanc 2007, Entre-Deux-Mers, France, $10.00
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle (50%, 40% and 10%, respectively), this wine provides youthful aromas of lemon, hay, apple and slight yeast. With vibrant acidity, the palate has flavors of lime, grapefruit and stone.

Château Bellevue, Bordeaux, 2005, Médoc, France, $15.00
From the much-hyped 2005 vintage, this is an affordable option. On the nose, the wine displays youthful aromas of black currant, tobacco leaf and eucalyptus. Its medium+ tannins are ripe and balance well with flavors of blackberry, currant, oak and graphite, ending with very long length.

Château Moulin de Lagnet 2004, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, France, $30.00
Overshadowed by the great 2000 and 2005 vintages, 2004 provides good value. This wine hails from St. Emilion on the right bank of Bordeaux. Consequently, it is heavily dominated by Merlot with aromas and flavors of plum, cherry and some herbal/earthy notes. 

Château Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville 2003, Pauillac, France, $85.00
The 2003 vintage was the year of the summer heat wave that swept across Europe, hitting record highs. Despite the unusual climatic conditions, this wine has developed nicely, showing concentrated red and black fruits and heavy, but ripe, tannins. 

Château Montrose 1971, St. Estephe, France, $90.00
With a complex nose showing aromas of currant, raspberry and strawberry, joined by notes of floral, grass and dried herbs, this wine has aged beautifully. On the palate, there is dried plum, strawberry, black currant and some slight oak and spice.
NB: This chateau’s second wine is La Dame de Montrose, which retails for about $25.00 for the 2007 vintage.

Oregon, but not forgotten: A Visit to the Willamette Valley

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We had the wonderful opportunity to travel to Oregon in May 2009, visiting downtown Portland and spending time in the Willamette Valley. While wine regions exist in Oregon’s other valleys, namely the Umpqua and Rogue, it is the Willamette Valley that has achieved the most fame. This wine region is producing spectacular wines and while we have left the area, the memories of its wines are certainly not forgotten. Despite its youth as a wine-producing state, Oregon has become nearly synonymous with quality wine. Yet, only a few decades ago, early settlers were laughed at by their peers. In 1966, David Lett was a newly minted UC Davis graduate determined to plant a vineyard and begin making wine. He found what he felt to be suitable land in the Dundee Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, founding the Eyrie Vineyard in 1970, and the rest, as they say, is history.

 

David was joined by other wine pioneers shortly thereafter, setting the stage for this nascent wine region. Seeing similarity between their terroir and that of Burgundy (heartland of Pinot Noir), they set about crafting wines that emulated these icons while respecting their own unique soils and climate. Perhaps the most ringing endorsement of their success was the investment made by top Burgundy négociant and producer, Maison Joseph Drouhin, when it established Domaine Drouhin in Willamette in 1988. Today, Oregon ranks as the fourth largest in U.S. wine production and its wines are highly acclaimed both here and abroad. In fact, Oregon Pinot Noirs are considered to be among the best New World Pinot Noirs.

Situated only one hour south from Portland, the Willamette Valley is home to varied volcanic soils and a cool climate. The Valley is divided into six sub-appellations: Dundee Hills, Ribbon Ridge, Eola-Amity Hills, McMinneville, Yamhill-Carlton District and Chehalem Mountains. Beyond world class Pinot Noir, the Willamette is also known for its Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and sparkling wines. To a lesser extent, some producers are working with Rhone varieties – Syrah and Viognier – most of which is sourced from the warmer Rogue Valley in southern Oregon. The majority of Willamette’s wineries are open to the public for tastings and sales and readily welcome visitors.

 

Thus, we arrived in Portland, OR on a Wednesday evening, ready for a long weekend of wonderful food and wine. From the airport, downtown Portland is easily accessible via public transportation and, once there, easily navigated on foot, trolley or bus. As a relatively major city, Portland is home to a wide range of neighborhoods as well as museums, historic sites and other points of interest. Due to our limited time in town, our cultural visit was restricted to the Rose (gratis) and Japanese Gardens ($8.00/adult), both of which were beautiful. The Japanese Garden was particularly lovely for its amazing view of Mount Hood.|

East of the city, visitors can escape to the “wilderness” and enjoy white water rafting, hiking and other outdoor activities. We spent a half-day rafting down the Clackamas River (www.riverdrifters.net; $60/adult), which was full of fury with the recent snow melt, but a lot of fun. We then returned to Portland and splurged on dinner at Paley’s Place (www.paleysplace.net), a local favorite that specializes in locavore cuisine, with a wine list to match. We were impressed by the food as well as with the excellent customer service and knowledgeable waitstaff, who not only expertly advised us on our wine selection, but also on the cheese selections at dessert.  

Saturday morning found us at the local craft market (known as the Saturday Market, www.saturdaymarket.org), which is host to hundreds of vendors peddling their wares from candles and clothing to jewelry, pottery and glass art. This outing was followed by a visit to the Portland Farmers’ Market (www.portlandfarmersmarket.org), where we stocked up on local produce, fresh strawberries, smoked fish, artisan bread and a host of other homegrown food. The reason for this latter stop was that, instead of staying at a hotel or bed and breakfast, we had opted to rent a cottage in Carlton while staying in Willamette. This arrangement provided us with a good excuse to buy a few bottles of wine each day to enjoy with dinner prepared on the grill at “home”, without worrying about driving while intoxicated.

 

Carlton, we were told, is the “center of the Willamette universe.” Compared to New York City (or even Portland), it is a very small town, but there is some merit to that statement. Carlton is home to a number of wineries and tasting rooms, along with several restaurants and wine and cheese bar, The Horse Radish (www.thehorseradish.com). Aside from being a great place to stock up on Oregonian and international cheeses, The Horse Radish features live music on Friday and Saturday nights and not just local bands; on the night we were there, the musical duo was from Arizona.

 

Excited to have arrived in the valley, we walked up to the Zenas Wines’ (www.zenaswines.com) tasting room. Zenas produces three of its four wines with fruit sourced from the Del Rio Vineyards in the Rogue Valley and its Riesling with Willamette Valley fruit. The Southern Oregon wines include a Meritage (Bordeaux-style blend), Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Named for Zenas Howard, an early (1856) settler in the Rogue Valley, the winery is currently owned by his descendents.

We then headed out to Anne Amie (www.anneamie.com; $5.00 tasting fee/ $10.00 for the Reserve flight). This property was formally known as Chateau Benoit Winery, but was purchased by its new owner, Dr. Robert Pamplin, in 1999. Dr. Pamplin has been focused on elevating the quality and reputation of his winery ever since and is producing primarily Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc on its L.I.V.E. certified sustainable vineyards. The tasting room is located at the top of a hill and provides beautiful views of the vineyards and Pacific Coast Range.

 

We kicked off the following morning at Penner Ash (http://pennerash.com), which focuses on both Burgundy (Pinot Noir) & Rhone (Syrah and Viognier) varieties. Founded by winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash in 1998, along with husband Ron, Penner-Ash has evolved from an initial 125 production to 8,000 cases annually. Another hilltop tasting room, the vistas are quite incredible as one walks amidst the lush landscaping.

 

From Penner-Ash, it was off to Adelsheim (www.adelsheim.com). Among the early pioneers, Adelsheim was established in 1971 by Ginny and David Adelsheim and several of its labels feature portraits of family members and friends of the winery. The newly renovated tasting room also offers outdoor seating, where one can enjoy a bottle of wine with a picnic lunch (we picked up our lunch ahead of time in Carlton at the Filling Station).

Our next stop was Daedalus Cellars (www.daedaluscellars.com), a small, family-owned and operated winery which specializes in Pinot Noir, but also makes small amounts of Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay and Grüner Veltliner. Additionally, Daedalus produces a second label, Jezebel, with grapes sourced from throughout the state for wines intended to be drunk early in their life. The tasting room is rather small, but is conveniently located on the main drag (99W in Dundee).

 

Exclusively devoted to Pinot Noir, White Rose Wines (www.whiterosewines.com) was planted in 1980. Its vineyard is a high-elevation sight on top of the famous Dundee Hills, permitting views of Mount Hood in the distance. Owned by Greg Sanders, the winery has developed several different wines, with four of the six wines named for Greg’s children.

 

We capped off the day at Carlton Winemakers’ Studio (www.winemakersstudio.com), which is a joint venture among several different wine producers. Launched in 2002, the studio is currently home to ten artisan vintners and serves as a great incubator for up and comers; past alumni include Penner-Ash, Soter Vineyards and Ribbon Ridge Vineyards. The facility itself is designed to maximize daylight and is produced from recycled and sustainable materials. On the day of our visit, we tasted wines from several producers including Hamacher Wines and Andrew Rich.

The second full day of tasting began at Bergström Wines (www.bergstromwines.com; $25.00 tasting fee). Founded by John and Karen Bergström, the couple’s five children and spouses now co-own the winery with their parents, with son Josh Bergström presently serving as winemaker. Known for ultra premium wines and a focus on vineyard expression, Bergstrom produces several limited production, vineyard-designate Pinot Noirs.

The next stop on our itinerary was WillaKenzie Estate (www.willakenzie.com; $15.00 tasting fee, refundable with $25.00 wine purchase), where we were greeted by co-owner, Ronnie LaCroute, who graciously provided us with a tour. As Ronnie likes to remind folks, “Dirt matters.” Therefore, it is no surprise to learn that WillaKenzie is named for a type of soil that originates from the pushed up sea floor found in the Yamhill-Carlton and Ribbon Ridge areas. Among the larger properties we visited, WillaKenzie is situated on a 420-acre, former cattle ranch and practices sustainable viticulture.

 

We ended our tastings at Amity Vineyards (www.amityvineyards.com), where we met with owner, Myron Redford, who began making wine in the Eola-Amity appellation (the southernmost Willamette AVA) in 1974. Myron has an extremely diverse portfolio at Amity, ranging from his EcoWine® range of organic and sulfite-free wines to the Reserve and single-vineyard wines.

 

SELECTED TASTING NOTES
Anne Amie, Cuvée A Amrita 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $16.00
Named for the Buddhist equivalent of ambrosia, Amrita is a white blend of Pinot Blanc (47%), Muller-Thurgau (25%), Chardonnay (15%), and Riesling (13%). Aromas of tropical fruit and grass give way to a dry palate with citrus and herbal flavors. 1,700 cases produced.

Adelsheim, Pinot Blanc 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $22.00
This Pinot Blanc shows citrus, mineral and pear aromas. On the palate, it is dry with medium acidity, medium body and notes of citrus and minerality.

Daedalus, Lia’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2006, Chehalem Mountain, OR, $25.00
After spending 500 days on the lees, along with 18 months in neutral oak, this wine displays aromas and flavors of yeast, citrus and toothpick.

 

White Rose Wines, White Rose Estate 2006, Dundee Hills, OR, $75.00
Produced from 30 year-old vines, cropped at only 1 ton per acre, this wine is very concentrated on both the nose and palate. Aromas of floral and earth give way to more fruity flavors of raspberry and cherry. 198 cases produced.

Bergström, de Lancellotti Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Chehalem Mountains, OR, $65.00
The de Lancellotti Vineyard bottling shows floral, raspberry and stone aromas and flavors, which combine with an earthy undercurrent that persists throughout its long length. 455 cases produced.

WillaKenzie Estate, Pierre-Léon Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley, OR, $38.00
With a beautifully perfumed nose accompanied by a note of fresh raspberries, this wine continues to deliver on the palate with raspberry, earth, minerality and an undercurrent of wet leaves.

Penner-Ash, Syrah 2006, Oregon, $32.00
Produced in the northern Rhone Valley tradition, this Syrah is co-fermented with 1.5% Viognier. The nose is a mix of plum, berries and floral. Its dry, medium+-bodied palate has a nice, ripe tannic grip with flavors of plum, spice and leather, culminating in long length.

Amity Vineyards, Late Estate Harvest Riesling 2004, Willamette Valley, OR, $15.00 (375 ml)
This late harvest Riesling offers peach, apricot and honey aromas on the nose, joined by developing and floral notes in the mouth. A true dessert wine, it provides significant sweetness on the palate, which is beautifully balanced with vibrant acidity.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Closure Disclosure (May 2009)

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We are recently back from a trip to Santa Barbara, which is an absolutely lovely place to travel. We were fortunate to visit numerous vineyards and wineries and tasted some fabulous wines.

If you’d like to taste some fabulous wines, while improving your wine knowledge, join us for one of our classes. Our public schedule kicks off this month, with classes held on Saturdays and Sundays. As always, we are available for both personal and corporate private events as well.

We hope you have been enjoying Tracy’s NY Wine Shopping Examiner column on Examiner.com. If you haven’t checked it out yet, be sure to catch up with all of her articles online. Again, suggestions and ideas for articles are always welcome!

You can also catch Tracy’s latest Words of Winedom column, at Big Blend magazine, and/or hear her on Big Blend’s Eat, Drink & Be Merry radio show on Monday, May 11, 2009 at 7:10 PM (EST).

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

CLOSURE DISCLOSURE: CORKED, CAPPED OR SCREWED?

As oxygen is wine’s Kryptonite, sealing a bottle of wine is important. Traditionally, cork, derived from the bark of cork trees, has been the method of choice for wine closures for centuries. However, recent failure rates for cork, reports of which range from 2-12%, are no longer deemed acceptable. The primary failure in question is that of cork taint, caused by a reaction of the Trichloranisole (TCA) bacteria with chlorine/chlorinated-compounds. This negative reaction begins on the surface of the cork and then spreads to the wine itself, rendering it undrinkable and smelling like my wet, moldy basement (or anyone’s wet, moldy basement for that matter). As alternatives, the wine industry has turned to screw caps and crown caps among other products. NB: Crown caps are used for sparkling wines, while screw caps are found on still wines. 

While many people historically associate screw caps with less expensive wines, their use in fine wines is becoming more prevalent. Notably, as of 2006, 90% of all wine made in New Zealand is bottled under a screw cap or crown cap. Australia lags behind, but is still ahead of most countries with its screw cap adoption. In the U.S., consumers have been somewhat slower to demand alternate closures than their Southern hemisphere counterparts, but some of the higher end producers are beginning to make the switch.

The technology has evolved dramatically, especially over the last two years, making these closure choices near perfect. They seem to overcome issues of cork taint, oxidation (spoilage by contact with O2) and reduction (off-flavors from a lack of O2). However, they are not without their critics, with some attributing health-risks with these closures (not well proven or documented). APCOR (the trade organization representing the cork industry) ran its own campaign to laud the advances made in cork technology to address its (former) failures. In fact, a new cork, DIAM, has been launched, which is virtually taint-free, but, quite expensive. Synthetic corks avoid issues with cork taint, but are thought to add a plastic aroma to the wine and can be extremely difficult to remove. Given the pros and cons of the various solutions, it is likely that this debate will continue throughout this decade.

In the meantime, it is clear that both traditional and alternate closures have their place in the market. The merits of one or the other aside, nothing can substitute for proper storage of your wine in order to preserve their quality. Expose your wine to light, heat and/or vibrations and you will be screwed, regardless of the closure on the bottle!

Tasting Notes

Frédéric Mallo, Pinot Gris “Special Delivery”, 2006, Alsace, France, $17.00 – CORK
From a fifth-generation, family-owned estate in Alsace, their Pinot Grigio remains in the tank for a longer period of time (up to one year before bottling) than several other of its wines, giving it a fuller body. It has notes of ripe citrus and pear fruit with clean minerality and long length.

Geyser Peak Chardonnay 2007, Alexander Valley, CA, $14.00 – SCREW CAP
Under the leadership of winemaker Mick Schroeter, Geyser Peak produces expressive wines. With aromas of butter, oak, vanilla, and apple, this wine is dry with medium acidity and flavors of apple, vanilla, (well-integrated) oak, and a slight hint of spice.

Wild Rock Vin Gris 2007, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, $7.00 – SCREW CAP
Deep salmon in color, this rosé has pronounced aromas of ripe strawberry, raspberry, floral and a slight candied note, which persist on the palate with great depth of flavor and fruit concentration. Made from a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah, it is medium bodied with long length.

Casa Santos Lima, Sousão, 2004, Estremadura, Portugal, $15.00 – CORK
Casa Santos Lima, located just north of Lisbon, is a relatively new winery, with its first wines produced in 1996. A porty nose of deep, dark berries gives way to a dry palate with good acidity, a full body, along with rich and ripe berry fruit and notes of chocolate/cocoa. 

Errazuriz, Merlot, 2006, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, $10.00 – SCREW CAP
While only some vineyards of the Errazuriz estate are certified organic, owner Eduardo Chadwick has been adopting these principles throughout his vineyards. With notes of plums, cherries and oak, the 2006 Merlot is blend of 85% Merlot, 11% Carmenere and 4% Sangiovese, with 50% of the wine aged for six months in a combination of American and French oak.

Grand Cru Grapevine: A River Runs Through It (March 2009)

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With the excessively snow-filled season, I think most of us are ready for winter to be over. Accordingly, March’s arrival and its hints at Spring, which is yet to come, is most welcome. However, despite the bad weather, February found Grand Cru Classes keeping busy with media appearances and teaching opportunities.

In concert with Valentine’s Day, Tracy “appeared” on Big Blend magazine’s Champagne Sundays radio show in early February to talk about Sex, Wine & Chocolate. If you missed this broadcast, you can hear the interview online. She will be penning a new column for Big Blend magazine – Words of Winedom – under the title of Grand Cru Guru and will be periodically featured on their radio shows. Her next “appearance” will be April 27 at 3:30 PM EST on Eat, Drink & Be Merry on the topic of wines to accompany burgers & BBQ.

Also, while not wine related, both Tracy and Jared taped a segment for the Tyra Banks Show, which should air later this month.

Of course, live appearances included our Long Island wines class at City Winery, held on February 26. We are grateful to: Comtesse de Therese, Macari Vineyards, Martha Clara Vineyards, Peconic Bay Winery, Waters Crest and Wölffer Estate for their generosity and support in making this event a success!

Looking ahead, Sex, Wine & Chocolate returns to New York on March 19. Women only are invited to please join us at 7:00 PM for an evening of sensuality and decadence. Please see our website to sign up or see more details.

In addition, Tracy’s Great Grapes! series at New York University’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies begins March 24 at 6:30. As a reminder, registration is through NYU only.

And, for your drinking pleasure at home, this month we turn our attention to the wine regions scattered along the Loire River, which should delight your palate as well as your pocketbook.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick

COO: Cork Opening Officer

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

The Loire River is the longest navigable river in France, covering a distance of 629 miles and stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the center of France before heading south. Here, in the land of castles and Kings, French royalty would spend their summers in the countryside away from the hustle and bustle of Parisian city life, a precursor to the Hamptons summer season. From West to East, there are four wine areas within the greater Loire Valley region: Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine and Central Vineyards. With the vast distance covered, a diversity of climates, grapes and wines exist, making the river among the only threads that tie this large wine region together. However, despite their differences, most of these wines are quite food friendly and offer great value.

At the western coast, along the Atlantic Ocean, visitors find themselves in Nantes, where the Melon de Bourgogne grape is produced into Muscadet, a wine with dry, crisp acidity and citrus and mineral notes. The best wines hail from Sevre-et-Maine and are labeled as such. In addition, wines labeled “sur lie” are those which have sat on the lees (spent yeast cells) for at least six months, which imparts a yeastiness, and are generally richer and fuller-bodied. Muscadets pair beautifully with the shellfish which abound in the port, especially oysters and mussels.

Moving inland and east, the climate changes as do the grape varieties. In Anjou-Saumur, we find Chenin Blanc, which has versatility and then some, with the ability to produce outstanding wines in nearly all styles – dry, sweet, still, sparkling, youthful and aged. Dry whites include Savennieres (which is particularly age worthy) while Coteaux du Layon, Quarts de Chaume and Bonnezeaux are the product of grapes, which have been affected by noble rot, creating unctuous dessert wines. Sparkling wines from this area are made in both fully sparkling and petillant (1/2 pressure) styles. A profusion of rosés abound ranging from dry (Rosé de Loire) and slightly sweet (Cabernet d’Anjou and Cabernet de Saumur) to sweet (Rosé d’Anjou). In addition, some Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Gamay are grown here to produce dry, fruity light-bodied reds found under the appellations of AC Anjou, AC Saumur and AC Saumur-Champigny.

Further inland, Touraine sports a continental climate, with more extreme temperature variations from winter to summer. This is the largest area within the Loire, with a wide variety of wines produced. White wines range from the dry Sauvignon de Touraine and AC Touraine, both made from Sauvignon Blanc, to AC Vouvray, produced from 100% Chenin Blanc. As with the Chenin Blanc in Anjou-Saumur, Vouvrays may be dry, medium-sweet or sweet, and may be still or sparkling. The wine style may be designated on the label, i.e. sec (dry) or moelleux(sweet). High quality red wines, made from Cabernet Franc, tend to exhibit herbaceous and raspberry notes in AC Chinon, with similar, but fuller-bodied wines coming from AC Bourgeuil and AC St-Nicholas-de-Bourgeuil. Red wines labeled as AC Touraine are a blend of Gamay and Cabernet Franc.

At the furthest point east, the Central Vineyards serve as the heartland of Sauvignon Blanc, producing wines, which are more mineral and less fruit-forward than their New Zealand brethren, primarily due to the complex soils found here. Key appellations include: AC Sancerre, AC Pouilly Fume, AC Menetou-Salon, AC Quincy and AC Reuilly. With its reputation for high quality wines, Sancerre can become a little pricey, but these latter appellations are less well-known and are thus, generally less expensive. Produced in smaller quantities, red Sancerre is made from Pinot Noir, which makes sense given the region’s close proximity to Burgundy.

Tasting Notes

Bouvet Rosé Excellence Brut NV, Loire Valley, France, $13.00
This sparkling wine has a beautiful pale salmon color. Medium aromas of cotton candy, yeasty/leesy notes, floral/blossom and under-ripe strawberries. Dry with medium acidity and medium mousse, it has flavors of ripe strawberry, yeast and watermelon Jolly Rancher, along with its long length. 

Domaine Les Hautes Noëlles, Les Grange Muscadet sur lie, 2005, Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu, France, $10.00
A youthful wine with leesy aromas and notes of apple, citrus, it has medium+ acidity and medium body. The palate includes flavors of lime, yeast and minerality. 

Vincent Raimbault, Vouvray Sec 2004, Vouvray, France, $15.00
On the nose, the youthful aromas of apples, almond and lanolin linger, giving way to flavors of almond, apple and honey and crisp acidity on the palate.

Vincent Gaudry, Sancerre, Melodie de Vielles Vignes 2006 Sancerre, France $22.00
Produced from 50-year old vines, this wine has pronounced aromas of minerality, citrus and grapefruit. The medium+ acidity is joined by flavors of citrus and apple which persist on the palate, followed by a hint of stone in the finish.

Joguet Chinon Cuvee Terroir 2005 Touraine, France $18.00
The nose shows limited fruit notes of berries, oak and vanilla. In the mouth, it is dry, with ripe berry fruit, medium acidity, medium+ tannins, and herbal and woody notes in the finish.

Chateau de Fesle Bonnezeaux 2003, Anjou-Saumur, France, $63.00
This dessert wine provides developing aromas of apricot, orange peel, honey, floral and spice. It is medium sweet on the palate with medium+ acidity and pronounced flavors of apricot, honey, spice coupled by a nutty note underneath its long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: I Left My Heart in San Francisco (February 2009)

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Baby it’s cold outside! It’s the perfect time to stay indoors and open some wonderful wines, but eventually you may get stir crazy, so we have plenty of places for you to come hang out with us.

On February 26, Grand Cru Classes will present Long Island wines: From Potato Farms to Parker Points at the newly opened City Winery in Manhattan. We are very excited to partner with Michael Dorf on his project and look forward to a great event. Please register at City Winery online.

Two days later, Grand Cru Classes will import its Sex, Wine & Chocolate event to Washington, D.C. We’ll be at the beautifully-appointed Co Co Sala Chocolate Lounge, along with sexuality educator, Judith Steinhart, sipping wine, savoring chocolate and soaking up knowledge. We invite women-only to our noon session on Saturday, February 28, with a special session for couples-only presented at 3:00 PM. If you have friends, family or colleagues in the D.C. area, be sure and let them know we are on our way. And, save the date for the New York return on March 19, 2009. Details for this event are posted on our website.

Looking ahead, Tracy will reprise her Great Grapes! series through New York University’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies. The non-credit course will be offered on four consecutive Tuesdays, beginning March 24 at 6:30 and will feature Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir. Registration is through NYU only.

While we are waiting for Spring, our hearts and minds are back in California wine country, namely the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. With the restrictions on transporting liquids on planes, we no longer take wines home with us from our travels. Instead, we leave with heavy hearts as we bid goodbye to these wonderful wine regions, but know we will be back.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick

COO: Cork Opening Officer

I LEFT MY HEART IN SAN FRANCISCO

Napa Fog The popular song, “I Left My Heart in San Francisco,” made famous by Tony Bennett, is certainly apropos in many regards this month. As singer of the song, Tony longed to be back home, foreswearing both Paris and New York for his love that “…waits there in San Francisco.” Such passionate love, whether for a grand city or a lover, is certainly in keeping with the arrival of Valentine’s Day this month.

But beyond such love, Tony’s devotional also unwittingly mentions so many of the important aspects that make the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, which lie north of San Francisco, such great wine growing regions. His, “…city by the bay…” brings cool air, where “[t]he morning fog may chill the air…above the blue and windy sea…” and its “…golden sun will shine…” Truly, it is the climate, shaped so dramatically by the mountains, water and fog, that positively impacts the quality of the grapes.

Situated beneath the mountains, the Napa Valley is bounded on both sides with the Mayacamas range to the West and the Vaca range to the East. Moreover, the Napa Valley sits to the west of the hot and dry climate of the San Joaquin Valley (aka Central Valley), where much of California’s bulk wine is produced. In the early morning, the high heat from the Central Valley draws the cool air and moisture from the Pacific Ocean into the San Francisco Bay and then up the Napa Valley, cooling the area as it rolls in. This marine influence has differing results as one works their way up the 30-mile long valley, finding a difference of as much as 1oF/mile, with the southern end experiencing lower temperatures and increased rainfall when compared to the northern end, up near Calistoga. By noon, the fog has burned off and the valley is warm, with plenty of sunshine to fully ripen the grapes each year.

The southern end, known as the appellation of Carneros, spans both Napa and Sonoma and maintains the coolest climate of the region. Here, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay truly shine. Further up in Napa, we find Cabernet Sauvignon and, again Chardonnay, but generally produced in a different style. Whereas the Carneros Chardonnays are elegant and restrained, the wines from upper Napa are fuller-bodied and richer in character due to the warmer climate. Other varietals also are grown in Napa including Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. High above the valley floor, the mountain appellations lie above the fog, with grapes receiving more sunlight and a warmer overnight temperature. As a result, these are wines with a darkness and intensity to them balanced with good acidity and tannins that are well polished. The most produced wine in these areas tends to be Cabernet Sauvignon and similarly, Bordeaux-style blends, in which Cabernet Sauvignon plays a significant role.

The larger, Sonoma Valley is a region of polyculture, not just viticulture, growing a wide range of produce and playing host to numerous farms. The areas closer to the coastline are tempered by the marine air, while areas further inland maintain higher temperatures. Consequently, some sub-regions are particularly well-suited for given grape varieties. More specifically, the Alexander Valley is vaunted for its Cabernet Sauvignons, while Rockpile is prized for Zinfandel. The Russian River Valley is another area known for cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, while the warmer and drier Dry Creek Valley is home to Rhone varietals (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre) and Zinfandel.

Tasting Notes

Dutton-Goldfield, Shop Block Pinot Blanc 2007, Green Valley, CA, $25.00
Celebrating its 10th anniversary in 2008, Dutton-Goldfield is the partnership of vineyard owner/manager, Steve Dutton, and winemaker, Dan Goldfield, in producing small lot, cool climate wines in the Russian River Valley. As a sub-AVA, the Green Valley is hailed as, “the coolest, foggiest region of the Russian River Valley.” Their Pinot Blanc has citrus, floral and stone aromas, with a dry, medium-bodied palate. Bright fruit flavors of citrus and apple coexist with muted notes of minerality.

Frank Family Vineyards, Chardonnay 2006, Napa Valley, CA, $32.50
This is a beautifully-made Chardonnay with aromas of apple and floral notes. Medium-bodied on the palate, it has flavors of apple and white flower and only a limited perception of integrated oak.

Robert Mondavi Winery, Fume Blanc Reserve 2006, To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville, CA, $45.00
From the famed To Kalon vineyard, this 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Semillon blend has youthful aromas of grapefruit, hay and wet stone, opening up to peach. On the palate, it is dry with medium+ acidity, medium body, white grapefruit, stone and peach notes, finishing with a touch of yeast in the long length. 

Coturri, Jewell Vineyard, Pinot Noir 2005, Sonoma Mountain, CA, $30.00
While the wines aren’t labeled as such, Coturri is a biodynamic producer, believing that organic production isn’t the stuff of marketing, but rather, it’s the only way to make wine. This elegant Pinot hails from 60-year old vines and has raspberry and herbal aromas. Dry, with lively acidity, medium body and medium tannins, its flavors of raspberry and black cherry, coupled with pleasant herbaceousness, are very concentrated throughout the palate. 

Seghesio, Zinfandel 2005, Rockpile, CA $36.00
Known for its Zinfandels, Seghesio produces a range from different appellations and vineyards. The Rockpile rendition is spicy and juicy, with medium body, medium acidity, ripe tannins and rich flavors of spice, blueberry and blackberry.

CADE Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Howell Mountain, CA, $60.00
Made in small quantities (only 400 cases), this wine comes from 9 year old vines grown at a 2,000 foot elevation, which is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Merlot to soften the wine. Aromas include menthol, along with some blackberry fruit in the background and oak. The dry palate displays medium acidity, high tannins and flavors of blackberry, oak and coffee.

NB: The wines selected for this month’s newsletter carry higher average prices than our usual selections, but we believe that these wines deliver excellent quality, while still providing good value. There are significant numbers of lower-priced California wines, most of which are commercially-made, cheap and cheerful wines with grapes sourced from throughout the state. With the high cost of land values in Napa and Sonoma, it is costlier to make great, artisanal wines, as these represent. Yet, with people choosing to stay in more frequently, as opposed to dining out, these wine costs provide you with the ability to trade up, while still keeping expenses reasonable.