Grand Cru Grapevine: Portuguese Wines ~ A Fun Lesson in Diversity Awareness (October 2012)

Long known for its high quality fortified wines – namely Port and Madeira – Portugal’s reputation for its non-fortified wines was less than stellar. Thanks to a renewed focus on quality, most notably in the wineries themselves, things are changing. The country now has an expanded repertoire of quality wines, which offer diverse styles at excellent values for today’s consumer.

Part of the secret to Portugal’s success is owed to its range of climates. Despite its small size, the country has three distinct zones, which influence the styles of wine that can be produced. Due to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, the coastal part of northern Portugal is lush and green with abundant rainfall. Here, temperatures are moderate and humidity is high. Continuing south along the coast, the climate becomes more Mediterranean, with warmer summers, mild winters, and less precipitation. Meanwhile, a series of mountain ranges in the interior blocks the moderating influence of the ocean and the climate becomes decidedly continental and arid. These inland valleys, especially those close to the Spanish border, feature blistering hot summers and very cold winters, with minimal precipitation.

Along with its diverse climate, Portugal has embraced a wide variety of grapes, choosing to rely on native varieties instead of the more internationally known Cabernet Sauvignon and the like. Instead, grapes such as Castelão and Fernão Pires, essentially found nowhere else, dominate the vineyards. Mostly planted in the south, Castelão can produce red wines with complex, herbaceous character, but can also be vinified in a more easy-drinking style. Fernão Pires, alternately called Maria Gomes, is a very aromatic white grape variety, made into dry and dessert, as well as sparkling, wines.

Red grapes take the lead, with two-thirds of all wine production being red. Aside from the aforementioned Castelão, Portuguese reds frequently feature one or more of the preferred Port varieties. Specifically, Touriga Nacional, capable of producing complex wines with firm structure and black fruit; Touriga Franca, with its floral, blackberry and plum notes; and Tinta Roriz, known elsewhere in as Tempranillo, with red fruit, olive and herbal characteristics. Another variety with significant acreage is the extremely tannic Baga grape, which is often aged in older barrels so as not to add additional tannins, yielding wines with robust wines with plum and tobacco notes, capable of aging for a long time.

White grapes are regionally prominent, especially in the cooler areas in the north and on the islands. In Vinho Verde, Loureiro and Alvarinho (synonymous with Loureira and Albariño in Spain’s Rías Baixas) are the stars. Alvarinho is distinctly tart and mineral in character with peach and citrus aromas and flavors, whereas Loureiro offers less acidity and more richness on the palate. Wines can be produced as single varietal wines or several grapes may be blended together. Compared to Rias Baixas wines, Alvarinho-led Vinho Verde is more petillant, mineral and tart.

Regardless of the varieties used, white (red and rosé versions also exist) Vinho Verde is generally low in alcohol, high in acidity with fresh citrus character. Also grown in the Vinho Verde area, as well as in Lisboa, Arinto is known for high acidity, with moderate alcohol and has to potential to age, especially if aged in oak.

With a wealth of wines from which to choose, Portuguese wines might be the perfect thing to help you break your Chardonnay habit. Because, not only is life too short to drink bad wine; it’s too short to get stuck in a rut.

Aveleda Alvarinho 2011, Vinho Verde, Portugal, $11.00
This is always one of my favorites when tasting a range of Vinho Verdes. While a bit pricier than some others, it delivers with floral, nectarine and citrus aromas and flavors. With its high acidity, dry palate and light body, this is a perfect aperitif wine.

Quinta da Romeira Arinto 2010, Bucelas, Portugal, $11.00
This wine hails from the Bucelas denomination, located close to Lisbon. It has notes of citrus, and yeast on the nose. Another relatively light-bodied wine, the palate has high acidity, along with green apples, grassiness and minerality.

Casa Ermelinda de Freitas Dona Ermelinda Reserva 2010, Palmela, Portugal, $13.00
A blend of Castelao (70%), Touriga Nacional (10%), Trincadeira (10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), this wine spent 12 months in French oak barrels. It offers red berries, perfume, oak and plum on the nose. Its palate provides vibrant acidity, dusty tannins, as well as minerality and an herbal character.

Herdade de la Malhadinha Nova Aragonês da Peceguina 2009, Alentejo, Portugal, $21.00
Unlike Rioja, which relies on Tempranillo, but usually includes at least one blending partner, this wine is 100% Tempranillo (simply masquerading under its Portuguese pseudonym). Showing ripe and jammy black berries, oak, medium tannins and some minerality, this wine seems more new world than old world, but still has nice balance.

Quinta de Vesuvio Pombal de Vesúvio 2008, Douro, Portugal, $27.00
At 803 acres, Quinta de Vesuvio is one of the largest estates within the Douro Valley. This blend of Touriga Franca (55%), Touriga Nacional (35%) and Tinta Amarela (10%) was aged in barrel for 9 months in French oak. It displays black and bramble fruit aromas along with smoky notes, both of which are repeated on the full-bodied palate, and joined by vibrant acidity.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Memories of Mendocino (September 2012)

Nestled above the Sonoma County border, Mendocino County is a world unto its own. Much less developed than Napa or Sonoma, the county is home to sandy beaches, towering redwood forests, and other natural landscapes, but little else. The picturesque town of Mendocino itself sits along the Pacific Ocean, offering breath-taking views, weather permitting. On a clear day, you can watch waves crash on the rocks below; however, when the fog rolls in, you’re lucky if you can see the ocean at all.

Beyond swimming and hiking, beer and wine tasting figure prominently on tourists’ “to do” lists. Even though grapes are grown throughout the county, with a total of ten American Viticultural Areas (and two pending approval), it is the Anderson Valley that is the most densely populated – with wineries, not people. Arriving from the north, visitors are greeted by the Navarro town limit sign, which announces a whopping population of 67; this is not the place to annoy your neighbor. To the south, the “much bigger” Boonville is home to 700 residents. But, what the area lacks in people, it more than makes up for in hospitality and a stay at the Boonville Hotel is strongly recommended.

Within the valley, the elevation, coupled with the coastal maritime influence, creates ideal conditions for cool climate grape varieties including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Riesling. Although Tony Husch is credited with planting the valley’s first Pinot Noir vines in 1971, the Alsatian varieties got their start in 1974, thanks to Ted Bennett and Deborah Cahn of Navarro Vineyards. And, while aromatic whites do well, Pinot Noir is especially prized, with many producers coming from outside the valley to source fruit, such as Copain, Fulcrum and Littorai. Aside from producing highly regarded still wines, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay also find themselves used in the production of Traditional Method sparkling wines. In this regard, Scharffenberger Cellars was founded by John Scharffenberger in 1981, while Roederer Estate, affiliated with Champagne house Louis Roederer, was established in 1982.

Today, the Anderson Valley remains quite small with a scant 2,244 acres planted on 85 properties and a median vineyard size of 12 acres. To put that in perspective, the Napa Valley, which accounts for only 4% of California’s total wine production, has over 45,000 acres of vineyards. Yet, despite the Anderson Valley’s diminutive size, it has developed a big reputation for producing quality wines.

Roederer Estate L’Ermitage 2003, Anderson Valley, CA, $44.00
The top sparker of the estate, also known as a tête de cuvée, L’Ermitage made its debut in 1989 and is only made in the best years. This wine is a blend of 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir and spent five years on the lees. It showed floral, yeast and citrus notes on both the nose and palate, culminating in a very long length. 8,332 cases produced 

Navarro Vineyards Pinot Gris 2010, Anderson Valley, CA, $19.00
With a strong emphasis on sustainable farming, the family farm supports a flock of Babydoll sheep, which graze between the vines to keep
down the weed, but are too short to reach the grapes. The wine shows floral, almond and tangerine notes on the nose, all of which persisted on the lush palate. 1,500 cases produced

Handley Cellars Pinot Noir 2009, Anderson Valley, CA, $32.00
Owned by Milla Handley, Handley Cellars celebrates its 30th vintage this year, and while Milla is still the primary winemaker, co-winemaker, Kristen Barnhisel, joined the staff in 2004. This Pinot Noir was redolent of fresh berries and cherries, with earth, slight spice and dried herbs joining on the palate. 1,505 cases produced 

Phillips Hill Estates Pinot Noir Wiley Vineyard 2009, Anderson Valley, CA, $38.00
Phillips Hill Estates was founded by Toby Hill in 2002 when the professionally-trained artist shifted his attention away from the label and into the bottle (although he does design his own labels). Crafting several different vineyard designate Pinot Noirs, the Wiley Vineyard was our favorite with its lighter body, yet still intense cherry aromas and flavors. 380 cases produced

Lula Cellars Zinfandel 2009, Mendocino, CA, $28.00
This relatively new direct to consumer brand – the first wines were launched with the 2008 vintage – is the brainchild of winemaker and owner, Jeff Hansen. With grapes sourced from just south of Ukiah, this wine displayed blueberry, cocoa and raspberry aromas with rich and ripe fruit on the dry palate. 500 cases produced

Parlare Prosecco Superiore

About to embark on my fifth trip to Italy in three years, I felt it was imperative to be able to say more than the five words I had previously memorized to be polite. So, I enrolled in a language class appropriately called the Traveler’s Survival Kit, which focused on important vocabulary such as that needed to ask directions and check into a hotel.

Of course, the most crucial phrase I taught myself was “Sorry, but I have studied to speak Italian for only four weeks,” and practiced it numerous times before I headed out of town. Not surprisingly, I used it in nearly every conversation I had upon my arrival in Italy. With its multiple repetition came fluidity and ease and soon I was sounding very Italian, earning repeated compliments…at least for that one minute.

My survival kit kept me in good stead for most of the trip, especially when coupled with an abbreviated game of charades in an attempt to be understood. Yet, while the majority of folks spoke at least some English, I found myself in a few situations where this was not the case. I generally grasped most of the conversation, but admittedly missed a few phrases and simply nodded along. It’s possible that I may have inadvertently said yes to something I didn’t mean to, but, I am confident that I didn’t receive any marriage proposals along my journey.

My trip was nearly complete when I had the opportunity to meet with Francesco Drusian, a Prosecco Superiore producer. Francesco met me at the Castello di San Salvatore (the “villa” of the Vino in Villa event) in order to bring me to his winery in Valdobbiadene. We waited for the tram to take us from the castle courtyard to the parking lot and quickly exhausted the few relevant phrases I knew since I was not about to ask Francesco for a hotel room or an order of pasta. Unfortunately, Francesco didn’t speak English at all, so he asked me if I spoke French to which I replied “oui. “

Shortly thereafter, we were in his car headed to the winery—a full 30 minutes away. Possibly the longest 30 minutes of my life. Did I mention that I studied French in junior high and high school (both of which were very far away from the minutes I spent sitting in Francesco’s car)? Shifting gears, my beautiful Italian phrases were replaced with rusty French, jumbled with the occasional Italian word and I now sounded like Sgt. Deux-Deux of the Pink Panther and Friends’ The Inspector cartoons…”Si, I mean, ‘Oui.'”

We finally arrived at the Drusian estate and I (inwardly) breathed a sigh of relief. It wouldn’t be too much longer until we’d be occupied with tasting through the wines and his colleague, Anna Maria, who did speak English, was due to show at any moment.

Pulling the wines from the refrigerator, Francesco apologized for the wines being too cold and so we waited a bit to let them warm up. We eventually began with Prosecco Superiore Brut, which had a very floral nose and is fresh on the palate with ripe peach flavors. His Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry displayed a heady aroma of white flowers and just a hint of sweetness with floral and mineral notes.

By now, Anna Maria had appeared and we made each other’s acquaintance, while continuing with the tasting. The Millisimato 2011 was similarly floral and mineral on both the nose and palate, along with pear. Labeled as Dry, the wine was quite clean and very balanced despite its 20 g/l of residual sugar.

Although among the mid-level tier of Prosecco Superiore producers in terms of overall production size, Drusian is among the largest landholders in the vaunted Cartizze area – Prosecco Superiore’s cru vineyard. As expected, Drusian’s top wine was extremely elegant showing with mineral and pear drop characteristics dominating the palate before culminating in long length.

With the tasting completed, I was given a quick tour of the winery and then we were off to dinner. It turned out that Anna Maria used to work at the winery, but now manages Althe’a, an agriturismo property owned by Francesco. I rode with Anna Maria, which was a much more relaxing trip than the earlier one (simply due to the lack of a language barrier), as we sped toward Colline di Soligo.

The farm is home to a beautifully restored stone house with farm country décor throughout the guest rooms and restaurant. We entered the dining room and were seated immediately (it certainly helps to arrive with the owner). As good hosts, Francesco and Anna Maria were keen to ensure that I enjoyed every course even when they chose to skip it themselves; I was the sole eater of both the pasta course and dessert. And, since they were unwilling to provide guidance on one appetizer over another, I was strong-armed into trying two.

For the main course, Anna Maria and I split a steak courtesy of one of the cattle raised on the farm, which we paired with one of Francesco’s non-Prosecco wines – a red blend from the newly promoted Colli di Conegliano DOCG. I chose Italian cheesecake for the aforementioned dessert, which was served warm on a bed of chocolate sauce and with which Francesco insisted that I try one of the local passito (dried grape) dessert wines.

As the evening faded into night, Francesco excused himself and bid me au revoir and Ciao! as he headed home to his family. I finished my cake, had a few more sips of the Torchiato di Fregona and saw the finish line looming in the distance. But, just then, Anna Maria remembered that they had experimented with making a limoncello flavored with herbs and another glass was brought to the table and filled. I took a few obligatory sips and, at last, it was time to go.

By this point, I was quite tired, but very satiated and, had been reminded that while we may speak different languages, whether English, Italian, French or otherwise, the language of food and wine is universal!

It’s the Yeast We Can Do (Grand Cru Grapevine: July 2012)

The tiny, single-celled fungi (I’ll spare you the bad joke) known as yeast are responsible for creating wine; without them, it would merely be grape juice. Simply put, the yeast consumes glucose and fructose in grapes, converting the sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The resulting product is much more complex and interesting than if the yeast had not intervened (thanks yeast!). These organisms exist throughout nature and are found on the skins of grapes (not a bad place to hang out if you’re looking for a free lunch), among other places.

Brought together in this manner, the initial discovery of fermented beverages was most likely an accident, but yeast are one of the oldest domesticated organisms (although admittedly not as cute as dogs) with humankind having used it for thousands of years. More recently, the commercial production of yeast has a 100 year old history with today’s winemakers having the luxury of ordering any number of cultured yeast strains from a catalog to achieve their desired effect. In fact, a chart on Winemaker magazine’s website suggests which yeast products are best for which styles of wine.

Yet, despite these modern conveniences, many winemakers are going native. In Canada’s Niagara-on-the-Lake region, Hillebrand Winery gifted us with yellow t-shirts emblazoned in green with the slogan “Take a Walk on the Wild Side” on the front and hailing their Wild Ferment Showcase Chardonnay 2009 and Showcase Sauvignon Blanc 2010 wines on the back. Stateside, the Hamptons-based Channing Daughters has produced its L’Enfant Sauvage Chardonnay, made entirely with native yeast, since 2001, while Janet Myers of Napa’s Franciscan Estate makes the similarly produced Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay.

Why the emphasis on these minute details? Does it make a difference or is all about the hype? Not only is Myers adamant that it matters, but she continues to make various batches of Chardonnay using both cultured and non-cultured yeast each year, which are then blind-tasted to determine which one is the best. And, every year, she finds that the wine produced with natural yeast wins out. For Shane C. Welch, President and Founder of Sixpoint Craft Ales, the use of natural vs. cultured yeast is the difference between a live performance and a studio album.

But, using wild yeast may not always be the best course of action. Myers admits that in some cases, especially with red wines, the result is less pronounced while further explaining that she finds it produces a different (unwanted) style with Sauvignon Blanc. Accordingly, the extra time and attention necessary to use wild yeast fermentation is limited to her Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay; all other Franciscan wines are made with cultured yeast. Myers is also quick to point out that she has the benefit of having a microbiologist on staff that can observe, smell and analyze what’s going on and make adjustments as needed. Tracy’s tales of producing L’Enfant Sauvage sound dicier, with some ferments taking almost a full year to complete.

Whether brought on by ambient populations of yeast or those of the cultured variety, the finished products of fermentation – wine, beer, bread – are made all the better for their actions. Accordingly, we have much for which to thank the yeast. If the yeast could talk, they might be heard to respond, “It’s the yeast we can do.”

Channing Daughters L’Enfant Sauvage, The Hamptons, NY, $35.00
Although we have not tasted the recent release of this wine (2009), we hosted a wine dinner featuring the L’Enfant Sauvage from vintages 2001 through 2008. While the older wines did display some oxidative characteristics, this added richness and complexity and confirmed the ageability of these wines. Citrus and apple were the most common aroma and flavor descriptors in my various notes, accompanied by some slight oak and spice, along with good acidity.

Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Dry 2010, Hungary, $15.00
While likely more famous for its sweet and luscious botrytized wines, Tokaji (pronounced to-keye) winemakers also make dry whites. This one is a blend of 85% Furmint, 10% Harslevelu and 5% Muscat, 20% of which has been aged in oak barrels for six months. Notes of apple and canned peaches greet the nose and persist on the medium-bodied palate.

Franciscan Estate Cuvée Sauvage 2009, Carneros, Napa Valley, CA, $40.00
The result of using wild yeast for this wine is worth the effort, with its complexity of aromas of yeast, apple, and wet stone. On the palate, it has vibrant acidity, full body, flavors of yeast, toothpick, apple, and lemon, culminating in long length. Crisp and complex.

Lucien Albrecht Blanc de Blancs Crémant d’Alsace Brut NV, Alsace, France, $20.00
Traditional method sparklers such as France’s Champagne and crémants owe their charm to not just one, but two fermentations, along with lengthy contact between the wine and the dead yeast (aka autolysis). As a blanc de blancs (white from whites), this wine is a blend of 80% Pinot Auxerrois, 10% Pinot Blanc and 10% Chardonnay and shows aromas of yeast and toast, joined by apple peel and ripe citrus on the fresh and elegant palate.

Masi Agricola Bonacosta Valpolicella Classico 2010, Veneto, Italy, $14.00
If you’re craving red wine despite the heat, this light-bodied, low tannin blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara from the foot of the hillside vineyards in the Classico zone just might do the trick. Bursting with vibrant, fresh cherries, it can be enjoyed with a slight chill and paired nicely with oven-roasted Portabella mushrooms and eggplant.

Bodegas Fariña celebrates 70 years

Pictured left to right: Inigo Ramirez de Haro Valdes (Cultural Attaché to the Consul General of Spain), Manuel Farina Jr, Chef Jesus Nunez, Manuel Farina Sr, Juan Martinez Salazar (Consul General of Spain)

Manuel Farina, Jr. looks very young, but at 25 years old he is supposed to. His father, Manuel, Sr., looks more weathered after being at the helm of the family business for more than 40 years. The newly minted viticulturist was in New York for the first time in April, along with dad, to mark a special occasion – their esteemed Toro winery, Bodegas Fariña, celebrates its 70th anniversary this year.

Situated in northwest Spain, the Toro region is a little over two hours from Madrid and about an hour from the Portuguese border. Wines have been produced here for centuries, but the denomination of origin (DO) only dates to 1987, thanks considerably to the efforts of Manuel, Sr. and his belief in the area.

With its span of seven decades, Bodegas Fariña is one of the oldest wineries in the Toro DO. Beyond simple longevity, the winery can also claim to be a pioneer in establishing the reputation of Toro wines. Founded in 1942, Bodegas Farina was created by Salvador Fariña in the village of Casaceca de las Chanas, located 30km from Toro. A new winery was built within the Toro border upon creation of the DO.

Born just a year before the winery was established, Salvador’s son, Manuel was destined to take over the business. However, Manuel wondered why the Toro wines weren’t doing better in the world wine market.

Studying wine in Bordeaux as part of his studies proved pivotal, revealing to him that people didn’t want high alcohol wines. Back then, tradition dictated that the local wines should be harvested in mid-October, the result of which was wines that clocked in at an average of 17% abv. Returning home, Manuel changed his family’s practices, producing the first wine at 13.5% abv.

Other trail-blazing measures included being the first to use a de-stemmer and the first to use temperature controlled stainless steel for fermentation. Historically, the wines were packaged in jugs, but along with his other shifts, Manuel, Sr. began bottling in Bordeaux bottles. Not surprisingly, the winery was also the first in the region to be exported.

Today, Bodegas Fariña is highly regarded, with the wines available in numerous countries. Not content to rest on these laurels, both of Manuel, Sr.’s sons share their dad’s passion for wine and innovation. Bernardo, the oldest, serves as technical director, while Manuel, Jr. focuses on the vineyards. The 2011 vintage found them actively evaluating their soils and vine nutrition and was their first vintage with separate vinification of different vineyard plots. The family’s next challenge is to convert 65 ha of their land to organic farming.

The impact of this innovation can be found in the glass. The Bodegas Fariña wines over deliver for the money, especially in the mid-range. At the lower end, fresh fruit flavors of strawberry and plum showed nicely in the Pimero 2011 ($n/a), a 100% Tempranillo wine, which begins with carbonic maceration before regular fermentation takes place. The Dama de Toro Tempranillo Roble 2010 ($13.00) was barrel aged for four months and offers more complexity with dried herbs, spice and a hint of the oak as well as strawberry aromas and flavors.

Even more complex, the Dama de Toro Crianza 2006 ($17.00) had aromas of strawberry, oak, herbs, balsamic notes, and spice, all of which persisted on the palate and culminated in long length. The winery’s special release, Bodegas Fariña 70th Anniversary 2009 ($25.00) had similar notes, but was more floral on both the nose and palate. And, to cap off one’s meal, the Val de Reyes “Tino Dulce” ($20.00) is a late-harvested Tempranillo wine with black raspberry, dried red fruit and cocoa, which was much lighter on the palate than Port.

Wine with the Vanderbilts (Grand Cru Grapevine: May 2012)

America’s most visited winery isn’t in Napa. It isn’t even in California. Rather, with 600,000 guests annually, the imposing Biltmore Estate can be found in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Asheville, NC. With its driveway measured not in feet, but in miles (glad I don’t have to shovel it), the 1895 mansion was ahead of its time with electric lighting and an elevator and continues to be forward-thinking in its emphasis on being a self-sustaining estate. As part of these efforts, the on-premise dairy was replaced with a winery in 1985.

In 1997, a belated honeymoon included a visit to the Biltmore, along with a tour and tasting at the winery (in fact, our first winery visit as a couple). By design, our arrival coincided with the Flower Festival, which spanned the full weekend and entailed a myriad of events held at the immense estate. Our attendance at such events meant that our rental car became well acquainted with the lengthy driveway, but each time that the “house” came into view, it took our breath away. Coupled with the lush landscape and numerous gardens designed by Frederick Law Olmstead (of Central Park fame), we departed Asheville with fond memories.

Thus, it was with some delight that I accepted an invitation to meet with Biltmore Estate’s winemaker at a recent lunch in New York City. As you might imagine, growing grapes in North Carolina is not an easy task. The humid climate wreaks havoc in the vineyard, encouraging the growth of mildew and healthy grapes at harvest are not a given. Yet, despite these less than favorable conditions, Bernard DeLille has made wine at the Biltmore Estate for over 25 years.

The Burgundy-trained winemaker responded to an advertisement in 1986, intrigued by the opportunity to make wine in the U.S. Although he was working in Madiran and Jurançon (both in southwest France) at the time, DeLille welcomed the opportunity to produce wines without the rigid constraints of France’s appellation system. Accordingly, he packed up his wife, two children and their belongings and headed to North Carolina to begin his new position. Joining the staff under the direction of Philippe Jourdain, by 1991, he was promoted to the position of winemaker.

Given the challenges that North Carolinian viticulture presents, Biltmore Estate now sources grapes from California for many of its wines. In order to comply with U.S. regulations, wine production takes place in California as well. However, the estate vineyards have not been abandoned; DeLille will continue to make wines at home as well. In this regard, consumers can choose from two Blanc de blanc sparklers – one from North Carolina and the other from Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. Two still Chardonnays are also similarly produced (Sonoma County and North Carolina). Not surprisingly, their red wine production centers on California.

This new approach to winemaking has provided DeLille with many rewards. Yet, he admits that it can be complicated to keep up with the need to make wine in two different facilities, separated by an entire continent. But, on the whole, DeLille seems to have taken well to the balancing act required. I wish I could say the same of the restaurant’s servers. In clearing the flutes and white wine stemware, both DeLille and I were the recipients of a Chardonnay shower. Luckily, as a veteran journalist, I was wearing black and was consequently, soggy, but not visably stained.

All in all, it was a nice reintroduction to these wines and I appreciated the changes being made in expanding the Biltmore Estate’s range of wines. The new wines should be available in the New York market soon and I would encourage you to seek them out. Or, even better, go join the other 600,000 guests and taste the wines at the estate. It’s truly a great way to spend the weekend!

Biltmore Estate Château Reserve Blanc de Blancs Brut 2008, North Carolina, $30.00
Produced from 100% Chardonnay grapes, this sparkling wine is made in the Traditional Method and receives 12-16 months of lees aging, yielding yeasty, toasty, apple and floral notes on the nose and palate.

Biltmore Estate Blanc de Blancs Brut 2007, California, $25.00
While produced similarly to its North Carolina sister, this sparkler’s grapes are sourced from the Russian River Valley and it spends 18-24 months on the lees. A more pronounced nose offers up riper fruit with apple and pear aromas. On the palate, some yeasty character is evident, but this wine is less toasty and more fruit forward than the other.

Biltmore Reserve Chardonnay 2010, Sonoma County (CA), $20.00
As an unoaked Chardonnay, this wine is all about pure fruit, showing aromas and flavors of pear, apple and citus. Bone dry on the palate with vibrant acidity and a full body, it is an excellent dining partner.

Biltmore Reserve Chardonnay 2010, North Carolina, $15.00
In contrast, this wine is fermented in French and American barrels and approximately 50% of the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation (sharper malic acid is converted to the softer and creamier lactic acid). The nose is rich and buttery with apple notes, while the palate offers apple and a hint of oak.

Biltmore Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Alexander Valley (CA), $20.00
A varietally-correct, California Cab, this wine shows lots of black fruit and slight herbal notes, with moderate tannins, balanced acidity and good length.

Searching High and Low for Bordeaux (Grand Cru Grapevine: April 2012)

At a recent Wine Media Guild lunch featuring Château d’Issan and Château Rauzan-Segla, it was stated that, “as Bordeaux goes, so does the whole industry,” with the further comment that, it was a “lynchpin by which other regions measure themselves.” And, with the iconic nature of these two Margaux producers, it is not surprising that the wines showed quite well that afternoon. Several months earlier, four Pauillac châteaux – Château Lynch Bages, Château Pontet-Canet, Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Clerc-Milon – gave equal pleasure to the assembled journalists.

However, with the price of the classified growths reaching astronomical figures, many wine drinkers feel priced out of the Bordeaux market. Yes, it’s true, wines from pedigreed châteaux have become the object of collectors who may never drink a drop rather than the cherished claret they once were. Such wines are the result of high scores and top reputations, which have made them more prized for their investment value than for their hedonistic value. But, thankfully, the majority of Bordeaux is still very much for drinking.

As an extremely large French wine region, representing 26% of all AOC (quality) wine produced in the country, Bordeaux is home to 63 appellations. Yet, Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC together comprise 55% of the total production. And, despite the volume this entails, Bordeaux has thousands of small, family-run estates such as Château Penin run by Patrick Carteyon, the fifth generation of his family to work in wine. Similarly, at Château de Bonhoste, winemaking is the domain of Yannick Fournier, while his sister, Sylvaine, and mother, Colette, tend to the vineyard.

Although these two appellations stem from grapes grown on both sides of the Garonne River, on its own, the Right Bank has been the scene of recent change. A new appellation – Côtes de Bordeaux – was established in 2009, providing these wines with more market recognition. For example, wines previously labeled as Blaye or Côtes de Francs were not instantly recognizable. Now, the name Bordeaux is featured prominently on their labels.

While not as prestigious as the wines from the various classifications, wines from these three appellations offer great value, with most under $20.00 and many in the $10.00-13.00 range. And, at these prices, you can take a chance on a bottle or two to try before splashing out on a whole case.

Château La Rivalerie, Côtes de Bordeaux Blanc 2009, Bordeaux, France, $N/A
(60% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sauvignon Gris and 20% Semillon)
This wine offers aromas of oak, bruised apple, citrus and ginger on the nose. With bright acidity and medium body, the flavors echo the nose and linger throughout the long finish.

Château La Goutere, Bordeaux Rouge 2009, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
(77% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc)
Hailing from vineyards located near Saint Emilion, this wine showed aromas of blackcherry, vanilla and a hint of oak on the nose. Its palate also offered notes of earth and herbs along with medium tannins.

Château Penin, Grande Selection Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2008, Bordeaux, France, $13.00
(100% Merlot)
Blackberry, plum and some herbal character were present on the nose. Showing a supple texture, the wine had good acidity, with flavors of blackberry, plum, dried herbs and slight oak notes.

Château Peynaud, Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2009, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
(50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc)
Aromas of spice, oak, vanilla and black cherry greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is very fruity, with similar notes.

Château Saincrit, Vieilles Vignes Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2008, Bordeaux, France, $18.00
(70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvigon and Cabernet Franc)
This château is owned by Florence Prudhomme who took over the property in 2003. Showing aromas of plum, raisin and spice on the nose, the palate gives way to blackcherry and oak.

Et tu, Brunello? (Grand Cru Grapevine: March 2012)

The Ides of March is upon us, so all Caesars are cautioned to beware. And, while you may not be able to trust Brutus, you can feel confident about the most recent releases from Brunello di Montalcino, with three stellar vintages all now available in the market: 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Reserva, 2007 Brunello di Montalcino and 2010 Rosso di Montalcino.

Although Brunello di Montalcino doesn’t quite date as far back as Julius Caesar’s time, the origin of this Tuscan wine traces its heritage to a mention in an historical document dated 715. Production centers near the hilltop (monte) town of Montalcino, which takes its name from the oak trees (leccio) found growing there. The town’s vertical advantage placed it in a strategic position since its inhabitants could clearly see who was traveling on the main road between Florence and Rome during the Middle Ages. Consequently, the city maintained its independence as a municipality for centuries before the Medici’s took possession in 1559.

The history of Brunello itself stems from 1869 when Clemente Santi defined the wine. Santi won an award for his 100% Sangiovese wine that, aged for a long period of time, was unusual for his integration of advanced racking and barrel-ageing techniques that had not been used previously. Several decades later, his grandson Ferruccio Biondi Santi built upon Clemente’s initial work, establishing strict production standards and, unlike his peers, focusing exclusively on a wine meant to be aged. Biondi Santi’s labors also isolated a particular clone of Sangiovese, known locally as Brunello, and in 1932, an Interministerial Commission described him as the inventor of Brunello.

Steeped in Medieval history, Montalcino offers visitors the chance to step back in time – thick stone walls, an imposing fortress and cobblestone streets transport you from 2012 to 1512. Yet, despite the ancient ambience, Montalcino embraces its decidedly commercial culture. Walking down the town’s narrow streets, one encounters wine shop, after wine shop, after wine shop, almost to the exclusion of all else. As a colleague remarked during a recent visit, at no time did we come across a hardware store or a place to buy non-touristic garments. Got wine? No problem. Got underwear? That’s another story.

Initially established as a DOC in 1966, Brunello was among the first denominations to be promoted to DOCG status, Italy’s highest quality wine level, in 1980. By then, it had achieved worldwide recognition as an ageworthy wine. Today, the denomination is home to 250 producers and, while the delimited area itself comprises 60,000 acres, only about 5,200 acres are planted to Brunello vineyards. Another 1,275 acres is given over to Brunello’s baby brother – Rosso di Montalcino. Whereas Brunello must be aged for a total of 5 years (or 6 years for Riserva) with at least two years in oak, the Rosso wines may be released immediately.

The square-shaped region is home to four rivers and valleys and is situated midway between the center of Italy and the sea. Moreover, the area is slightly further south than Chianti Classico and Montepulciano. Accordingly, the Mediterranean climate provides a warmer and drier climate than these other two regions, impacting the ripeness and tannin development of the grapes. With richer cherry fruit and less vegetal notes than Chianti Classico (and less earthy ones than Vino Nobile di Montepulciano), these tannic wines need time to truly develop as evidenced by the beauty found in both the 1995 Col d’Orcia and 1994 Villa Poggio Salvi described below. Hailed as a five-star vintage, the 2007s will have similar staying power and should be laid down in the cellar and perhaps forgotten about until the Ides of March circa 2024.

Camigliano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $40.00
With aromas of cherry, slight earth and hint of oak, this dry wine is light and elegant with bright acidity, medium tannins and cherry dominating the palate. 

Capanna 2007, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $41.00
Aged for four years, this wine is classic with rich and concentrated aromas of cherry, anise and wood, culminating in long length.
 

Fanti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $45.00
A combination of black cherry and sour cherry, the aromas are repeated on the palate, with firm tannins and nice length.

Il Poggione 2007, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $69.00
This wine is beautifully rich with cherries and balsam notes on both the nose and palate. The concentrated flavors linger throughout the wine’s long length.

Col d’Orcia Riserva Poggio Al Vento 1995, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $85.00
This wine saw four years in oak and two years in bottle before being released. Now, 17 years after its initial production, it is showing development on both the nose and palate and offered dried fruit, herbs and cherries.

Villa Poggio Salvi 1994 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $NA
Almost Barolo-like in its black fruit character, this wine also offers dried herbs and fig notes. However, its body was lighter than the Col d’Orcia 1995.

Tavel, the Original Rosé (Grand Cru Grapevine: February 2012)

If you only drink rosé in the summer – challenge that! Sure, rosé wines are perfect summer sipping wines with their lighter body, refreshing acidity and affinity for being served at cooler temperatures. However, meatier rosés can make a wonderful addition to the dinner table year-round and will provide a rosy hue for your Valentine. And, France’s Tavel is a perfect example.

Produced from vines originally brought to the Rhône Valley by the Romans, Tavel was first made for the popes at Avignon as early as the 1300s. With its lighter body, low tannins and fruit driven character, the Popes enjoyed these wines, which became famous as the most red of all pink wines. After finding favor with the clergy, Tavel continued its long history, receiving official recognition as a controlled appellation in 1936, becoming the first AOC rosé wine in France.

With the iron-rich, clay and sandstone soils on the Rhône’s Left Bank more suitable for red wines, Tavel vines are grown on the Rhône’s Right Bank. Known for the wind-blown silts and sand that were deposited by the mistral after the ice age, these vineyards offer ideal conditions for fruit-forward, less-structured wines. Here, the soils are composed primarily of limestone, which formed millions of years ago when the area was initially under the sea. The land was eventually pushed to the surface where its mineral content provides acidity, minerality and aroma to today’s wines. Referred to as garrigue, which is also the name for the scrub vegetation that grows on it, these scents include lavender, thyme, rosemary.

Theoretically, Tavel may be made from a blend of up to 15 different grapes, most of which are red. Yet, in practice, the wines are limited to nine varieties and no grape can constitute more than 60% of the blend. These authorized grapes span from Roman (Bourboulenc) and Spanish (Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre) origin to French (Syrah, Cinsault, Calitor, Clairette, Picpoul) varieties, all of which thrive in the sun-drenched climate.

Crafted using the saignée method, the wines undergo an average of 12-48 hours during which the fresh grape juice is in contact with the red skins before being bled off.  However, the soak may last up to 72 hours to pull significant tannins and color from the grape skins. Regardless of the time period, the wines are fermented at cool temperatures to preserve the intense aromatics.

The range of colors is determined by the combination of grape varieties, ripeness of the vintage (pH), temperature of the grapes at harvest, length of maceration and oxygen exposure. Moreover, the quickly oxidizing Grenache imbues the wines with more orange hues while high acid grapes add pinker tones. Finally, while Tavel has historically been known for its salmon hue, with the advent of modern technology, the wines are now more pink. And with the legal revisions made in 1997 that mandate the use of clear bottles, you’ll be able to admire the wine’s beautiful shade well before you pour it in your glass.

TASTING NOTES

Château d’Aqueria 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $18.00
(52% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 11% Mourvèdre, 9% Clairette, 9% Cinsault, 6% Bourboulenc, 2% Picpoul)
This deep pink wine offers up aromas of cherries and berries. Its medium acidity and medium tannins provide nice structure for the darker red fruits, which pervade the palate.

Domaine de la Mordorée La Dame Rousse 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $15.00
(56% Grenache, 20% Cinsault, 10% Clairette, 4% Syrah, 3% each – Mourvèdre, Bourboulenc and Grenache Blanc)
Medium pink in hue, this wine has aromas of berries, with some slight citrus pith and minerality, all of which persist on the palate. Vibrant acidity and light tannins result in a refreshing wine.

Domaine Maby la Forcadière 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $20.00
(70% Grenache, 10% Cinsault, 10% Grenache Blanc, 10% Other)
Decidedly salmon in color, this wine shows floral and berry notes. The palate has medium acidity, low tannins and is dominated by fresh berry fruit flavors.

Prieuré de Montézargues 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $19.00
(55% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 13% Clairette, 2% Other)
Pale pink, with salmon highlights, berries and herbs greet the nose on this wine. Flavors of citrus and berries linger on the lively palate.

Château de Trinquevedel 2010, Tavel, Rhône Valley, France, $17.00
(60% Grenache, 15% Clairette, 10% Cinsault, 10% Syrah, 5% Bourboulenc)
With its medium pink appearance, this wine offers a range of floral, berry and herbal notes. Red berries and cherries are joined by a chalky/mineral character on the palate.

Truth or Dare? (Grand Cru Grapevine: January 2012)

If you make only one wine, it can be a bit risky. If you only make Riesling in New Zealand, it’s downright daring! In fact, that is precisely what Hennie Bosman and his wife, Celia, are doing. The proprietors of True & Daring admit that the venture is high risk; at a recent event Hennie joked that they should have called it Truly Mad. But, despite the inherent madness, the result is a wine that is true to their palate.

Born in South Africa, the affable Hennie planned to make wine in retirement, but their relocation to New Zealand prompted them to accelerate their plans. Starting out in the usual vein, they made several different varietally-labeled wines, including Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. However, as Hennie explained, they “decided to be daring; to stay true to the wine [they] love.” Accordingly, they turned their attention exclusively to Riesling.

Not wanting to imitate a particular style or region, Hennie believes that the vineyard speaks through Riesling more than other grapes. In this regard, the grapes are carefully sourced from vineyards in Nelson, on the northern tip of New Zealand’s South Island. He then works in small batch fermentations and leaves the wine on the lees for a longer period of time (by New Zealand standards). Consequently, the wine is bottled in December or January as opposed to September. Finally, the couple allows the wines to age before releasing them, further adding to their audacious behavior. Production is deliberately kept tiny with only 2,200 cases produced.

So what does all this mean in the end? An event held at Porterhouse brought together several top New York sommeliers, including Roger Dagorn, MS, all of whom were asked to taste nine wines blindly. While the tasters knew that the wines were all Riesling and that the True & Daring was among them, they didn’t know what else was in the line-up. Despite the tasters’ honed skills, upon tasting the True & Daring Riesling they couldn’t place the wine as being either distinctly Old World or New World. Moreover, the wine held its own in the company of such wines as Trimbach’s Cuvee Frederic Emile 2004 from Alsace, France, the Muller-Catoir 2009 from Pfalz, Germany and Eroica 2009 from the Columbia Valley, WA joint venture between Chateau Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen.

First released with the 2004 vintage, True & Daring’s current release is the 2007 vintage. Tasted in October, this wine was showing some development with honey, citrus and a hint of petrol on the nose. The dry palate was dominated by citrus and petrol with high acidity, medium body and long length.

Unfortunately, all of the Bosmans’ audacity doesn’t come cheap; the wine retails at $35.00/bottle, but it is well-worth the splurge.