Category Archives: Grand Cru Grapevine

Grand Cru Grapevine: Bubbles Born in the USA: American Sparklers (October 2010)

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We have had a busy, but productive, fall season thus far. Our wine salon, From Mystery to Mastery, conducted as part of the East End’s first HARVEST Wine Auction & Celebration was met with great success as was Tracy’s Sex, Wine & Chocolate event with certified sexuality educator, Amy Levine, held at the beautiful Coco de Mer erotica and lingerie store.

Tracy will be teaching at the International Wine Center later this month and at NYU for three classes in November. Her session on Italian Sparkling wines, to be presented at the American Wine Society’s (AWS) annual conference is sold out with 90 registrants and only a few seats remain for her session on South African Wines.

In honor of the AWS’ conference location in Cincinnati, OH – what we’ve dubbed, “the other Cin city” and birthplace of America’s first sparkling wine – we bring you the history of Nicholas Longworth this month.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer 

       and 

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer 

Bubbles Born in the USA: America Sparkles

America has long had a love affair with sparkling wine, yet, while many Americans would be quick to identify Dom Perignon as an iconic figure of the Champagne region, few would know that they owe a debt of sparkling gratitude to Nicholas Longworth who created the first American sparkling wine – a Sparkling Catawba, in 1842.

Born in Newark, New Jersey, in 1783, this “crazy Jerseyman” stood somewhere between 5′-1″ and 5′-3″ and arrived in Cincinnati in 1804 (one year after Ohio had attained statehood), at the age of 21. After studying law for six months (there were apparently a lot fewer laws back then), he established a law practice.
 

Concurrent with his legal work, Longworth made shrewd investments in land, beginning in 1820. These real estate investments permitted Longworth to indulge in a new passion for horticulture and viticulture, pursuing the latter as a hobby as he began to plant vines along the Ohio River. 

His first attempts were with vitis vinifera, which, having been planted prior to the discovery of phylloxera, not surprisingly died shortly thereafter. Longworth then tried his hand at the American species, vitis labrusca. Specifically, he became interested in the Catawba grape (native to North Carolina), which was hearty enough to withstand the harsh winters of Ohio, planting these vines in 1825. He produced his first wine three years later, declared himself satisfied and subsequently quit his law practice, eventually crafting a sparkling version of his beloved Catawba.

But fortunately, Nicholas wasn’t the only one who admired his slightly sweet, sparkling wines. His wine was enjoyed not only throughout the United States, but also abroad in England and France. It was further lauded by poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow who immortalized Longworth’s wine in his, “Ode to Catawba” published during the 1850s.

Longworth’s success eventually established him as the “wealthiest man in Ohio.” In fact, “…in 1850 his taxes rated higher than any other man in the United States except William B. Astor…” at an annual bill of $17,000 and, at his death, his wealth was estimated to be $15 million. (Harper’s Weekly)

In addition to being an accomplished wine producer, Longworth was a generous person and used his wealth to help others in his community. He provided work for those in need; built housing above his wine cellars for indigent laborers; and distributed bread to the hungry from his home every Monday morning.

Longworth’s efforts also helped to cement Ohio as a key winegrowing area in the United States. By 1860, Longworth had 3,000 acres of vines and was producing 570,000 gallons of wine, annually bottling 150,000 bottles. During this period, Ohio led the nation in the production of wine, supplying one-third of the nation’s wine and out-producing California by two to one. However, this boom was short-lived as Ohio wine production declined in both the wake of viticultural disease and a loss of labor as Ohioans left to fight in the Civil War.

Yet Ohio was not alone in its pursuit of bubbles. In 1855, Benjamin Davis Wilson, who was to become the first mayor of Los Angeles, was the first to produce a sparkling wine in California. And, across the country, a “champagne” industry was started in Hammondsport in New York’s Finger Lakes region in 1860. Crafting sparklers from Delaware, Iona, Elvira and Catawba grapes, the Pleasant Valley and Taylor Wine Companies set about to establish “American champagne [as] the leading wine of the region.” (Reichl, 14) 

While most of this early success with sparkling wine was brought to an end in the 1920s as America pursued Prohibition, by 1933, “[t]he few surviving Eastern wineries, principally sparkling-wine producers of New York State [namely Great Western and Gold Seal], soon found their bearings again.” (Wagner, 61)

And, only a few decades later, a renaissance would take place, with Jack and Jamie Davies re-establishing a winery at the old Schramsburg estate in Napa Valley, CA. With a focus on quality, not quantity, the Davies’ produced a Blanc de Blancs, which they released in 1967, becoming “America’s first commercially produced Chardonnay-based brut sparkling wine.” (Sawyer) Schramsburg’s reputation was assured when, in 1972, their sparkling wine was poured at the “Toast to Peace” dinner with President Nixon and Premier Chou En-lai in Bejing, China. Their wines have been poured in the White House ever since.

Today, sparkling wine is produced in all fifty states, and, while many of these producers are local in scope, leading American sparklers are found in California, Oregon, New York, Virginia, New Mexico, Pennsylvania, Delaware and Massachusetts, and are often national and even international in their reach. Here, many serious winemakers are crafting world-class wines utilizing the Traditional Method of production, with ultra-premium producers focused on estate-grown grapes and the production of vintage-dated wines.

Harper’s Weekly Journal of Civilization, Nicholas Longworth Obituary, published 3/7/1863.

Reichel, Ruth ed., History in a Glass: Sixty Years of Wine Writing from Gourmet. Random House: New York, 2006 [Frank Schoonmaker, Return to the Native, p. 14]

Sawyer, Christopher. “The Best of Both Worlds.” The tasting panel, December 2009.

Wagner, Philip M.  Grapes Into Wine, Knopf Press, 1976

  
  

Producer Profiles

Biltmore Estate
Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina is “the most visited winery in the United States,” seeing one million visitors annually. The 125,000 acre estate is the site of George Vanderbilt (grandson of Cornelius)’s dream home designed by noted architect Richard Morris Hunt. The Château Reserve Blanc de Blancs is 100% Chardonnay from fruit sourced throughout North Carolina and is aged 24-30 months before disgorging.

Chateau Frank
In 1962, Dr. Konstantin Frank established Vinifera Wine Cellars in Hammondsport, New York and earned a reputation for his Rieslings and “champagnes.” The 1999 Prestige Cuvee is made with 100% estate-grown fruit, a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier and then aged for more than five years. 

Gruet Winery
The Gruet family of Champagne, France established their Albuquerque, NM winery in 1984. The 2004 Blanc de Blancs remained en tirage for a minimum of four years with the last bottles reaching anywhere up to five years.

Iron Horse Vineyards
When Iron Horse’s founding partners, Audrey and Barry Sterling, first saw the 300 acre property in 1976, it was the most westerly vineyard in Sonoma, but the Sterlings knew they wanted to grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and that this was the perfect climate in which to do so. The 2005 Classic Vintage Brut is among the most traditional of their sparklers, made from 25% Chardonnay and 75% Pinot Noir and aged for three years. 

Kluge Estate
Kluge Estate was established in 1999 in Carter’s Mountain on the edge of Blue Ridge Mountains in Charlottesville, VA by Patricia Kluge whose dream was to build a wine region. The 2007 SP Rosé, made from 95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir, was aged for 21-24 months and won at the Monticello Cup in 2010 and took home Silver medals at both the San Diego Wine & Spirits National Women’s Wine Competitions.
 

L. Mawby
Larry Mawby planted vines on Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula in 1973, with his first harvest in 1978. His Talismon is made from estate grown fruit picked as a field blend of Vignoles, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay.

Soter Vineyards
Although he is more known for his Pinot Noirs, Tony Soter chose to make a sparkler because he is a “sucker for a winegrowing challenge.” Produced from 100% estate grown fruit, the Soter Rosé is a 50-50% blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and spent at least three years on the lees.
 


Troutman Vineyards
Building on Ohio’s wine legacy, Deanna and Andy Troutman established Troutman Vineyards in 1997. Their Cuveé D, a brut style sparkler made from hybrid variety, Vidal Blanc, won a Bronze Medal at the 2009 Ohio Wine Competition in the Hybrid Sparkling Wine category. 

Grand Cru Grapevine: All in the Family (September 2010)

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September 2010

Summer has not yet quite finished out its tenure, but the 2010 harvest is already in full swing. Having been spared from the potentially devastating Hurricane Earl, many of the white grapes have begun to be picked and brought into the winery, while the red grapes will remain to finish ripening for a few more weeks.

Right on cue, the East End’s first HARVEST Wine Auction & Celebration will take place on September 24-25, 2010. As a reminder, Grand Cru Classes will offer its “From Mystery to Mastery” class through the Wine Salon as part of this two-day event.

The HARVEST event and the actual harvest signal autumn’s impending return, which also finds children returning to school this month and answering the age old question of what they did on their summer vacations. With family stories in mind, this month we look at the Concannon Family and its history.

And, we encourage you to return to school this fall as well…wine school that is. Tracy will reprise her Sex, Wine & Chocolate event on October 5, 2010 with nationally recognized sex coach and certified sexuality educator, Amy Levine, at the amazing Coco de Mer erotica and lingerie store. Savor every sip, taste and touch more fully through this decadent tasting of wine paired with Bond Street chocolates, which integrates a unique look at the intersection of these three joys in life. Call the store at 212-966-9069 to reserve your spot.

For tamer, but equally wine savvy, classes, turn to Tracy’s classes, which will be offered NYU’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies. She is also teaching the WSET Intermediate Certificate at the International Wine Center on Mondays, starting October 18, 2010.

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

All in the Family

Two Generations of the Concannon Family

I first met the Concannon family in a grocery store in California. No, I didn’t have the pleasure of meeting a member of the family, that came later, but yes, you can actually buy wine at the same time that you stock up on those other staples in life – milk, bread, cereal and ice cream – at the supermarket in some states. Rather, a family vacation had brought by parents, sister and I to San Diego and we were browsing the wine aisle in search of an inexpensive wine to enjoy with dinner. I’m not sure what drew us to the Concannons, but we picked up the bottle, placed it in the cart along with a rotisserie chicken and sides and headed back to our studio room at the hotel. We were not disappointed.

This past summer, I actually had the opportunity to meet John Concannon, the fourth generation of Concannons to run his family business, for dinner at Brasserie Ruhlmann, with his wines poured throughout the meal. I was very impressed with John and the wines, both of which were (food)-friendly and approachable. Over the course of dinner, John shared his family’s history with me, further adding to my appreciation of Concannon.

In addition to having wine in their blood, the Concannon family is also proud of its Irish heritage, with founder James Concannon becoming the first Irish immigrant to establish a winery in the U.S. John owes his family’s legacy to Great Grandmother Ellen who devised to keep her husband closer to home. Born on St. Patrick’s Day, James initially moved to the U.S. and found work in the rubber stamp business, but his wife, Ellen, insisted he stay in the area and make wine for the church instead. Following his wife’s advice, James bought 47 acres of land in California’s Livermore Valley and planted vines in 1883.

Building on their lengthy history, in the 1950s, the family was the first to hire a female winemaker. And, in 1961, the Concannons celebrated both the arrival of John and the launch of America’s first varietally-labeled Petite Sirah. Today, Concannon is the oldest, continuing operating U.S. winery under the same family and heralds its 127th harvest this year. John’s niece, Shannon, is already eagerly asking her dad questions about the wine business, ready to take the helm of her family’s venture, although it is expected that she will at least complete grammar school before doing so.

While Concannon’s Reserve and Heritage wines are only available at the winery, two other tiers of Concannon wines are widely available:

  • Concannon Selected Vineyards – grapes sourced from California’s Central Coast; $10.00 and under
  • Concannon Limited Release – comparable to the winery’s Reserve wines; includes the Conservancy wines, which are sourced from Livermore Valley vineyards that have been preserved as agricultural land in perpetuity; $15.00

Tasting Notes

Concannon Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $10.00
Mildly aromatic with aromas of grapefruit and lime, this wine is dry, with restrained fruit flavors of grapefruit, lime, citrus pith and stone, anchored with vibrant acidity.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Chardonnay 2008, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Aged in French and American oak barrels, the nose is greeted with slight toast and nut notes, along with melon. The dry palate presents with medium+ acidity and flavors of melon, citrus, mineral and noticeable, but well-integrated oak. It paired beautifully with a blue crab salad.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Merlot 2007, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Sourced from a cool area, this Merlot is bright and fruity with aromas of plum, cherry and herbs. Medium acidity and medium tannins join the dry palate, which offers black cherry and leafy notes.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Produced from 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Syrah, this wine is dry, with medium acid, full body and medium, ripe tannins. Aromas and flavors of blueberry and spice are joined with a hint of dark cocoa.

Concannon Vineyard, Conservancy Petite Sirah 2007, Livermore Valley (CA), USA, $15.00
Deep aromas of blackberry, smoke herald this dry wine, which has medium acidity, a full body, and notes of blackberry, smoke and oak wrapped around finely-grained tannins.

Grand Cru Grapevine: From Potatoes to Parker Points (July 2010)

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 We hope you enjoyed the holiday weekend and are having a great summer!

We continue to be busy, but have no complaints. In late June, Tracy participated in a video shoot for a segment of Wine Portfolio, an online television show that airs on CNBC. The segment focused on Wine Shopping in New York City, with stops at Sherry-Lehmann, Bottle Rocket and Chelsea Wine Vault. Host Jody Ness and the entire crew were a pleasure to work with. The episode won’t air for several months, but we’ll keep you posted when we have more details.

This month, Tracy was asked to serve as the judge for a special event celebrating Caymus’ Conundrum, which was paired with a range of take-out cuisine in search of the best match. This wine is a “proprietarily secretive blend of California white grapes”, drawing from Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat Canelli, Chardonnay and Viognier, and a combination of stainless steel and barrel fermentation that results in an unusual, but wonderful wine. 

Later this month, Tracy will present “Born in the USA: American Sparklers” at the Society of Wine Educators’ annual conference in Washington, D.C.

And, back at home, we invite you to save the date for the first HARVEST Wine Auction & Celebration of Long Island’s East End, September 24-25, 2010. Grand Cru Classes will offer its “From Mystery to Mastery” class (Saturday, September 25, 11:00 AM -1:00 PM) through the event’s Wine Salon, as part of this two-day extravaganza, which culminates in a Grand Tasting and Gala Dinner at Wolffer Vineyards.

Many of our readers are familiar with the East End and understand what there is to celebrate, but for those that are less familiar, we share some of the history and current state of affairs of the East End with you this month.  Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
       and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer  

 

  

From Potatoes to Parker Points
Agriculture has long been a feature of the North Fork, with the potato industry achieving prominence, along with cauliflower and other crops. But, times have changed. Today, the potato fields have given way to vineyards and vacationers. 

With the first vineyard planted in 1973 by a young, starry-eyed couple fresh out of Harvard, the first seeds (or rather vines) of the Long Island wine region were sown. That couple, Louisa and Alex Hargrave, were true pioneers, bringing vision and bravado to their newly purchased farm. Much like the early English settlers that preceded them, Alex and Louisa came to the task with limited knowledge, but unlimited passion and drive, pushing them to succeed where others were sure they would fail. Before long, they were joined in their efforts by other adventurous souls, all of whom were in love with wine. As time flew by, a fledgling wine region was born, eventually becoming an internationally recognized producer of quality wine.

The region now garners consistent coverage in the New York Times with Howard Goldberg’s bi-weekly column. Howard’s colleague, Eric Asimov, has lauded Long Island’s efforts in his own columns with increasing frequency, for both current and vintage wines. Additional publicity has been accomplished with big spreads in Wine Spectator and other glossy magazines, giving greater credibility to the region. Building on their accomplishments, the return visit of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, long considered to be among the most influential (albeit controversial) wine publications, proved to be a boon with all wines scoring a minimum of 84 and 23 wines earning scores of 90 or above (the highest score was 92). Across the pond, Decanter magazine has recognized the region with profiles of wineries and medals awarded to Long Island wines.Today, the Long Island wine region is home to 60 vineyards and 51 wine producers (35 of which are open to the public) and has garnered repeated praise in both consumer and trade publications. Moreover, the bucolic region has retained much of its rural charm, making it a true escape from the hustle and bustle of New York City, located only two hours away.

The wineries welcome visitors to their tasting rooms, each of which has its own special atmosphere. Guests can generally taste through a flight of wines for a small fee or can often choose to buy wine by the glass to enjoy in the wonderful surroundings. Of course, wine by the bottle and case is available for sale as well. Nearly year-round, but particularly during season (Memorial Day through Thanksgiving), the wineries play host to a wide variety of activities from jazz musicians and blue grass bands to dog shows, comedy festivals and other special events.

>Learn more about the region’s wineries through the Long Island Wine Council’s website.

Tasting Notes

Brooklyn Oenology Viognier 2007, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $18.00
Owner and winemaker Allie Shaper is also the new face behind the wines at Comtesse Therese. Aromas of melon and spice give way to a dry palate with ripe tropical fruit and melon notes.

Shinn Estate, Estate Coalescence 2009, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $14.00
Restaurateurs turned wine producers, David Page and Barbara Shinn produce elegant wines that are extremely food-friendly. A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot Blanc and Riesling, this wine has a pronounced nose with a dry palate, showing grassy notes with citrus and a hint of floral and spice.

Corey Creek Vineyards Domaines CC Rosé 2007, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $18.00
Corey Creek, a sister property to Bedell Cellars, has always been known for its rosé. Bright berry aromas greet the nose;in the mouth, it is dry with fruity, fresh berries that persist on the palate.

Jason’s Vineyard Merlot 2000, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $14.95
A second generation winemaker on the North Fork, Jason is the son of Dr. Damianos, owner of Pindar and Duck Walk Vineyards. At 10 years old, this wine has an aged bouquet of dried fruit and flowers. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, dried berries and cherries, spice and oak. 

Castello di Borghese, Merlot 2005, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $20.00
The original Hargrave vineyard and winery was sold to Prince Marco and Princess Ann Marie Borghese in 1999 where they continue the legacy started in 1973. This wine shows notes of meat and fruit on the nose with black cherry, plum, oak and meat flavors that linger throughout the long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: For the Cellar (June 2010)

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Season has arrived, keeping us busy with public classes, private group tastings and lots of fun wine events. Some recent highlights included a presentation on Long Island wines to wine club, It Was a Good Year, based in Poughkeepsie, NY; a presentation of our From Vine to Wine class held in conjunction with the Town of Riverhead’s Department of Recreation; and a jaunt “Around the Wine World in Six Glasses” for a bachelorette party in East Hampton. We return to the Hamptons for another bachelorette party this month. 

We also had the good fortune to visit to the Finger Lakes wine region in early May as part of Lenn Thompson’s TasteCamp East. This three-day extravaganza provided us with a fast and furious overview of this great wine region, which neither of us had truly visited despite Tracy having gone to Cornell University for school. If you get a chance to visit yourself, we highly recommend the trip. 

Of course, for most of you, a much shorter trip will bring you to the haven that is the East End of Long Island, which has ramped up for 2010 and welcomes your visit. If you do head out our way, be sure to stop by to visit our vineyard and take a wine class. We will also be delighted to show you our new solar array, which is our latest step in going off the grid and being green.

Coming with a group? We can customize a private class or event for you to enhance your visit to the region – choose from our regular wine tasting classes or add a cheese tasting component to broaden your knowledge even further. We await you… 

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
       and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer  

FOR THE CELLAR
While most wine is consumed within 48 hours of purchase, there are good reasons to cellar your wine. No, that New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc likely won’t improve with age, but, many other wines will continue to develop in the bottle, revealing even more nuances and complexity upon opening. As they say, patience is a virtue, and truly, a well-aged wine can be a rewarding experience.  

Which wines will age?
First, know that a vintage date is not akin to a freshness date – buying wine is very different from buying milk. An older wine is not necessarily a bad thing and in fact can be even better for having aged. That being said, wines that are intended to be enjoyed for their crisp acidity and fresh fruit flavors are best enjoyed young and should not be aged. Accordingly, keep tabs on your fresh, aromatic whites, roses and fruity reds and plan to drink them within three years of release.

Similarly, most white wines are meant to be enjoyed in their youth. However, high quality Chardonnays, Rieslings, Semillons and Chenin Blancs can develop nutty, toasty, honey and other more developed aromas and flavors that come through after the fresh fruit has faded.  Red wines with good tannins are likely to be ageworthy due to their structure and, in fact, highly tannic wines generally require some ageing for the tannins to soften and become more enjoyable on the palate. As with their white counterparts, vibrant fruit will become more subdued as secondary and tertiary flavors come to the fore with dried fruits, earthy and herbal notes taking their place. In general, a wine with ageing potential will have enough fruit, acidity and structure. If these elements aren’t sufficiently present in the beginning, they will fade too quickly as the wine ages and the aged wine will be lacking on the palate. In addition, sugar and alcohol are great preservatives, so wines with high sugar contents and fortified wines can age beautifully such as Sauternes; Ports; and Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenberenauslese Rieslings. 

Proper storage conditions
If you are laying down your own wines, be sure to store them under proper cellar conditions. Wines should be stored in consistent temperature between 50oF-70oF with some humidity to keep the corks moist in an area that is free from vibration and not exposed to light. Bottles with corks should be laid horizontally, to further aid in keeping the corks moist. If buying older vintages at an auction or retail, it is important to consider the storage conditions under which the wine has been since its departure from the winery. Whether ageing them yourself or buying aged wines, well-stored wines, with good providence, are more likely to be sound, although even under the best circumstances, there are no guarantees. 

When to drink your aged wines
Deciding when to drink your aged wines is both an art and a science. Typically, if you have a case of a particular wine, you will likely drink a few bottles too soon and a few bottles too late and the remainder during the wine’s peak. It’s a  good idea to check out vintage charts to see when wine experts, who are often tasting wines throughout the ageing process, think they are ready to drink (or if they think they are too young or too mature).

Serving older wines 
Once you have selected to drink an older wine you should expect a few things such as sediment. The tannins and pigments will precipitate out of solution, falling to the bottom of the wine. Accordingly, older wines frequently need to be decanted. In addition, like leaving an apple slice on the counter, wines (especially white wines) will oxidize a bit with time and thus will change color. White wines will become darker, heading toward brown while red wines will lose color, shifting toward brick and orange tones. Finally, corks on older wines may be very fragile, thus, an Ah-So opener might be a better way to go than the usual cork screw. 

Whether you prefer the vibrancy of newly released wines or the complexity of aged wines, open a great bottle and enjoy! 

 Tasting Notes 

  To further illustrate the discussion above, this month’s tasting notes include several of the same wines from different vintages, highlighting the changes that come with age. 

Bott-Geyl, Pinot d’Alsace 2005, Alsace, France, $16.00
We featured this traditional blend of Pinot Auxerois, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir in our December 2008 newsletter. Now at five years old, it is showing some beautiful aged characteristics with the citrus and floral notes have given way to honey and toast. However, the wine’s richness and acidity are still very present.

Anthony Road Winery, Semi-Dry Riesling 2008, Finger Lakes (NY), USA, $15.00
This is their off-dry Riesling offering with approximately 21-25 g/l of residual sugar. Floral aromas dominate the nose while the off-dry palate provides vibrant acidity and peach/stone fruit flavors that linger throughout the wine’s long length.  

Anthony Road Winery, Semi-Dry Riesling 2001, Finger Lakes (NY), USA
The same wine as the Riesling 2008, but with seven years of bottle ageing, the wine shows developing aromas of petrol. The palate is now drier and the ripe fruit has faded into notes of honey, toast and lime. The long length persists. 

Beronia Gran Reserva 2001, Rioja, Spain, $22.00
Produced from 88% Tempranillo, 8% Graciano and 4% Mazuelo, the wine was aged for a minimum of 24-36 months in oak plus an additional 36 months in bottle to quality for the Gran Reserva label. Aromas of smoke, spice, herbal and bright berry greet the nose. The palate provides red fruit and leafy flavors and good, tannic structure.Nearly the same wine as the one above, this wine was produced from 100% Tempranillo. Its nose reveals dried fruits and herbal aromas, while the palate is dry with medium+ acidity. Flavors of herbs, red fruit and spice are beautifully developed.Another 100% Tempranillo wine, this is a good (or rather bad) example of what happens when you wait too long to drink your wines. Tasted right after the 1982 Gran Reserva, it was clear that this wine was past its prime with limited fruit and bitter notes on the palate. In contrast, the 1982 had a slightly oxidized nose, but still showed some flavors of bright fruit, dried herbs and dried flowers.

Beronia Gran Reserva 1994, Rioja, Spain, $53.00

Beronia Gran Reserva 1981, Rioja, Spain, $55.00

Grand Cru Grapevine: The Magic of Monterey (May 2010)

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May finds us busy as a bee with Spring in full swing and Mother’s Day just around the corner. And, in a few weeks, the official launch to the Summer 2010 season, Memorial Day Weekend, will be upon us.

On May 18, Tracy will begin her 5-week Italian wine class at NYU’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies (Register through NYU now). Then, on May 20, she’ll head up to Poughkeepsie to present on the Long Island wine region for the It Was a Good Year tasting group. Next, it’s back to the North Fork on May 21 for a class presented in partnership with the Town of Riverhead’s Department of Recreation.

Finally, we invite you to join us From Vine to Wine as we kick-off our public schedule with our first class scheduled for Saturday, May 29, 2010 at 11:00 AM and a second class set for Sunday, May 30, 2010 at 1:00 PM (Mad about Merlot). 

On Thursday prior to the holiday, Hampton Jitney riders may find a Grand Cru Classes gift certificate at their seat, but you already have the inside track as a loyal reader of the Grand Cru Grapevine. Accordingly, we are pleased to extend the same offer to you – take 20% off a private event scheduled in 2010 or buy one ticket to a public class, get one free.

While you are waiting to head out to the Hamptons or the North Fork, you can sneak off to California’s Central Coast for a virtual visit of its vineyards with this month’s focus on “The Magic of Monterey.”

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick

COO: Cork Opening Officer

———————————————

THE MAGIC of MONTEREY

Like many places in California, Monterey is a magical place. Known as the salad bowl of the U.S., the county is home to numerous farms and driving along the highway one is privy to signs announcing, “Now growing…lettuce (or some other produce)”.

We had the great pleasure of visiting Monterey in 2007 when we attended the SWE annual conference being held there. Arriving at San Jose airport (which is a much cheaper flight than flying directly to Monterey’s regional one), we picked up our rental car and got ready to hit the road south. To truly put us in the California spirit, we had splurged on a convertible and, as soon as we were settled into the car, the top came down. Our options included the interior highway U.S. 101 or the coastal U.S. 1 (aptly named the Pacific Coast Highway). We chose the latter and proceeded to drive accordingly. While in the San Jose vicinity, the thermometer in car read 89oF and the breeze felt great flowing through our hair. This was soon to change in a surprising way.

Upon reaching U.S. 1, we drove south toward our destination and watched the temperature drop precipitously. By the time we were at our destination, it was 65oF. Quite a difference! The drive itself is only about an hour, so what accounts for the vastly different climates? Mountains. And, not only mountains, but their orientation to the Pacific Ocean. The Central Valley of California is shielded from the cold Humboldt Current off the Pacific Ocean due to the (mountain range) that runs north-south or, in other words, parallel to the coast. These mountains insulate the interior from this cooling influence and keep the temperatures high. Conversely, the coast is open to the current and significantly alters the temperature.

Moreover, when you actually get to Monterey, there is a gap in the mountains where they begin to run east-west or perpendicular, rather than parallel, to the ocean. This mountainous orientation plays a big role in the Monterey wine region, with the warmer air at the south-western end of the valley creating a vacuum that pulls the cooler ocean air downstream. Accordingly, the area of Santa Lucia Highlands is hospitable to cool-climate grape varieties, namely Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but also Riesling and Pinot Grigio. Temperatures range from 65oF-75oF with minimal temperature shifts and a long hang time-harvest is often as late as November. The warmer areas of southern Monterey and the Hames Valley are home to Cabernet Sauvignon and Rhone varietals respectively, which are able to ripen sufficiently given the higher temperatures found there.

Jerry Lohr of J. Lohr Vineyards noticed this unique terroir, particularly in the Arroyo Seco area, back in the 1970s and is among the pioneers in the region. More recently, others have recognized the potential and have established their own vineyards and wineries. Single-vineyard wines are particularly prized with a number of small, named vineyards earning stellar reputations. Gary’s, Talbott, [look up info]. Of course, wines from the wider Monterey County appellation are also produced and can be quite excellent as well. All in all, there are a wide range of microclimates, more than 55 varieties grown and ideal growing conditions to create balanced wines, resulting in true magic in a glass.

TASTING NOTES

Loredona Wine Cellars, Riesling 2007, Monterey, CA, $12.00
This wine shows lime, floral and peach blossom aromas. On the palate, it is slightly off-dry with vibrant acidity and flavors of peach, lime and floral notes, culminating in its long length. 10,000 cases produced.

Wente, Riva Ranch Chardonnay 2008, Arroyo Seco, CA, $20.00
In the 1930s, Wente was the first producer to label a wine as Chardonnay; today, Karl Wente is the fourth generation of his family to run the winery. This wine was barrel fermented and then aged for eight months in a combination of French, American, Eastern European and neutral oak. Aromas of spice, apple peel and a slight note of butter greet the nose. It is dry, with medium-full body and medium acidity. The palate offers up apple and well-integrated oak flavors of butterscotch, spice and an undercurrent of toothpick, finishing with long length.

Carmel Road, Pinot Noir 2007, Monterey County,CA, $16.50
This wine spent nine months in 98% French oak, 21% of which was new and 2% in American oak, 100% of which was new. Displaying raspberry, smoke and herbal aromas, this wine is dry with good acidity and low tannins. Notes of raspberry, cherry and smoke persist throughout its long length.

Lucienne Vineyards, Doctor’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Santa Lucia Highlands, CA, $35.00
Showing nice complexity, this wine has aromas of earth, herbal, raspberry and floral notes. Barrel aged for 14 months prior to bottling, its dry palate is very fruity with raspberry and herbal notes, coupled with an earthy undercurrent and balanced with bright acidity and long length.

Galante Red Rose Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Carmel Valley, CA, $35.00
Jack Galante, owner and winemaker, is the grandson of the founding mayor of Carmel. Aromas of blackberry, slight oak and slight eucalyptus dominate the nose. The dry, full-bodied palate shows balanced acidity and ripe tannins with notes of blackberry, oak and smoke.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Where the Streets Have No Name (April 2010)

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Has spring sprung? Writing in mid-March, it certainly feels like it. After a brutal winter, we are itching to get out on the road again and breathe in the fresh air of wine country. A vicarious visit awaits you in our newsletter this month as we explore the numerically-named routes found within the wine regions of Napa, the North Fork, Paso Robles and Santa Barbara. 

Less vicariously, we invite you to hit the road, Jack (or Jill), and head east for our fun and festive wine and chocolate pairing event, held in conjunction with our next-door-neighbor, Macari Vineyards, and Chokola’j. Learn about Sex, Wine & Chocolate when Tracy will jointly present with relationship coach and sex educator, Marcia Baczynski and Susan Kennedy, co-founder of Chokola’j. Join us April 24, 2010 (this is a date change from what was previously announced) from 3:00-5:00 PM; $45.00/person. Kindly RSVP to Kimberly Grimmer at Macari via e-mail or phone (631-298-0100). 

If a trip out east is too far to go, you can catch Tracy in her NYU class, Italian Wines–From North to South, on five consecutive Tuesdays from 6:45-8:45 PM, beginning May 18. Register through NYU now. 

We are also thrilled to announce the launch of Tracy’s new website: It’s a Winederful Life, where she will endeavor to share her tales of “living la vida vino.” 

Drink wisely and well, 

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE 

CEO: Chief Education Officer 

and 

Jared Michael Skolnick 

COO: Cork Opening Officer 

———————————— 

WHERE THE STREETS HAVE NO NAME 

Given that wine regions don’t start out as full-blown wine regions, the touristy wine trails that eventually spring up frequently don’t have idyllic, wine-themed names for the roads and routes that bring visitors from tasting room to tasting room. Rather, the main drag that winds its way past winery after winery is more often like the U2 song – a place “where the streets have no name,” bearing instead the number of the local highway or route. 

While you might have been advised to ‘get your kicks on Route 66,’ those visiting the Napa Valley will be best off if they stick to the parallel wine trails along Route 29 and the Silverado Trail. The former is considered to be the more bustling and trafficked than the latter, but both are home to wonderful wineries lining the roads from Carneros to Calistoga. The highway of Route 29 has lent its “no name” to Vineyard 29, which released its first vintage in 1992. In 2000, Vineyard 29 was acquired by Chuck and Anne McMinn, who subsequently expanded the single vineyard into a full-scale winery, known primarily for its Cabernet Sauvignons. 

Across the country on the North Fork of Long Island, the two parallel roads are Route 25 (aka Main Road) and Route 48 (aka as both “the North Road” and Sound Avenue). Here, the climate is dramatically different – maritime vs. Mediterranean, but the wine trail has also served as inspiration for the eponymously named Vineyard 48. Originally Bidwell Vineyards, Vineyard 48 took on its new name in 2005 when the Sicilian-born, Rose Pipia purchased the property. Over the past 5 years, significant investments in the vineyard and winery have been made and today, the winery is known for its well-crafted wines. 

Back in California, visitors to Paso Robles should travel along Route 46, which meanders past many of the wineries located in Paso Robles West, and then, after crossing Highway 101, takes you along the east side of the region. On the west side of town, the vineyards and winery of Tablas Creek Vineyard are located a little over 8 miles north of Route 46. Founded by the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel in France’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape and wine importer, Robert Haas, Tablas Creek creates Rhone-style wines – both single varietal and blends – following organic viticultural practices. 

Still further south, California’s Santa Barbara County is home to a diverse wine region spanning from the Santa Maria Valley to Santa Barbara proper. With its unique microclimate, wineries nestled in the Santa Rita Hills specialize in the Burgundian varieties of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and are found along Highway 246. Here, vineyard manager and winemaker, Wes Hagen tends to the vines grown at Clos Pepe, adhering to sustaintable agricultural methods, including the use of a flock of sheep to assist with weeding. 


TASTING NOTES 

  

Clos Pepe, Vigneron Select Pinot Noir 2007, Santa Rita Hills, CA, $54.00
Although an appointment is required, it is well worth the effort to travel to this unique property. Wes will greet you himself, providing you with a personal tour of the vineyards, followed by a tasting in his parents’ beautiful home. On the nose, this wine has aromas of cherry, berry, dust and slight oak. Medium-bodied, with vibrant acidity, the wine shows flavors of strawberry, vanilla and a hint of oak, along with minerality in the long finish.

Road 31, Pinot Noir 2006, Napa Valley, CA, $38.00
Owner and winemaker Kent Fortner’s parents both grew up on family farms in rural Kansas, not far from Road 31, a route he has traversed in his 1966 Ford pick-up truck too many times to count. With cranberry, floral and herbal aromas, this medium-bodied wine is dry with medium acidity and bright fruit flavors of raspberry, cranberry and a hint of baking spice.

Tablas Creek Vineyard, Cote de Tablas Blanc 2008, Paso Robles, CA, $25.00
This blend of 42% Viognier, 26% Roussanne, 21% Marsanne and 11% Grenache Blanc is pressed and fermented in stainless steel to preserve the fresh fruit flavors of the wine. Floral and citrus aromas are joined on the palate by minerality, spice and tropical fruit flavors that persist throughout the wine’s long length.

Vineyard 29, CRU Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $54.00
With grapes sourced from throughout the Napa Valley, the Cru Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in French oak for 18 months, 50% of which was new oak. Aromas of red and black fruits and floral notes greet the nose, while ripe blackberry, spice, smoke, oak enliven the palate, culminating in medium+ length.

Vineyard 29, Estate Cabernet Franc 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $140.00
The Cabernet Franc grapes for this wine hail from the original property, planted in 2000, and, while initially planted to be blended in with the Cabernet Sauvignon, were found to produce a wonderful wine all on their own. The 2007 saw 20 months in French oak, 90% of which was new, with 146 cases produced. Black fruit, oak and herbal aromas are found on both the nose and palate, along with a hint of spice and noticeable, but ripe, tannins. 

 

 

Grand Cru Grapevine: The Warmth of Chile (March 2010)

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I hope this issue of our Grand Cru Grapevine finds you and your loved ones well.

When I first starting drafting this month’s newsletter back in mid-February, I was thinking about the warmth of Chile amidst the cold weather of New York. However, Chile is now foremost in our minds in the wake of the huge earthquake which hit only days ago. Initial reports from the region indicate that while some of the wineries have sustained damage, the loss seems to be predominantly restricted to material loss rather than loss of life. Many of the wineries have no water or electricity, so the available news is limited at this time. Coming at the beginning of harvest, the wineries will have a long road ahead of them as they struggle to regain power, rebuild facilities and refocus their attention on picking grapes and making wine.

For information on upcoming events with Grand Cru Classes, please check out our website. In the meantime, our thoughts and prayers go out to the Chilean people and we wish them a complete recovery from this disaster. The full ramifications remain to be seen, but perhaps you might pick up a bottle of Chilean wine this month in a show of support (NB: The American Red Cross has noted that there are not any major fundraising efforts being conducted for Chile at this time).

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

The Warmth of Chile

It may still be winter here in the Northern hemisphere, but it is only just shifting to autumn in Chile. Accordingly, the warmth of summer still permeates the air and provides a virtual respite from our own cold weather. Blessed with an abundance of natural resources, Chile offers an ideal climate for viticulture and is cementing its reputation as a world wine region. Today, Chile is #5 in wine exports worldwide and, while the majority of wines are in the value category, a few premium wines are also receiving recognition.

Although it is predominantly Mediterranean in climate, Chile possesses a variety of climates due to the length of the country. In fact, if it were overlaid over North America, it would run from north of Montreal to the top of South America. Stretched along the Pacific Ocean, Chile enjoys the influence from the Humboldt current, which cools the air and moderates the temperature. On its other side, the Andes Mountains provide a steady supply of water for irrigation from the snow melt high atop the mountain ranges, which is necessary since most rainfall occurs during the winter months.

Chile’s viticulture stems from its French heritage, with grapes imported from France prior to the phylloxera epidemic. And, with its sandy soils, in which the phylloxera louse can’t live, it remains phylloxera-free. Not surprisingly, the grapes that dominate the landscape are Cabernet Sauvignon, Pais, Merlot, Carmenere, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah. Carmenere is unique to Chile having been brought there from Bordeaux about 80 years ago to add color, tannin and acid to wines made from Pais. Prior to 1994, it was mistaken for Merlot in the vineyard, but Professor Boursiquot discovered that Carmenere was not a clone of Merlot. It is now recognized as its own variety with unique attributes. As the latest grape to be picked, it requires a lengthy season to reach full maturity. Therefore, it is not well-suited to Bordeaux, but in the right areas, it can produce great wines in Chile, which are redolent of red fruits, spices and berries, with softer tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon, but good color. These wines are medium-bodied, with flavors of cherry, smoke, spice and earth, and are best drunk young.

Among the many wine regions in Chile, the Maule Valley is the largest. It does not benefit from maritime influence, but has good diurnal variation (reaching highs of 85oF during the day and lows of 45o-50oF at night) and dry farming (no irrigation) is the norm, creating rich, ripe wines. The Aconcagua Valley produced the first vintage in Chile – as early as 1551 – and is responsible for a lot of Chile’s current production. The Casablanca Valley is known for its cool climate white wines, while the up-and-coming area of Limari is hotter and drier, resulting in wines with more complexity and structure on palate. Wines from San Antonio and its three subregions, including Leyda, offer minerality and complexity due to the granitic soils and very breezy climate. Meanwhile, the southerly Bio Bio region contains a cold valley suitable for cool climate varieties and a wind which dries the fruit and delays maturity. This slow ripening preserves the fresh fruit and acidity and makes it a perfect place for growing Pinot Noir.

Tasting Notes

Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2008, San Antonio Valley/Leyda, Chile, $21.00
This wine is produced in 100% stainless steel, with six months of lees ageing and no malo-lactic fermentation. Medium+ aromas of lemon candy, floral and pear pervade the nose. On the palate, it is slightly off-dry with rich fruit flavors of pear, lemon candy, and floral, finishing dry with a mineral undercurrent.

Bodegas y Vinedos, O Fournier Centauri, Red Blend 2007, Maule Valley, Chile, $25.00
Produced from 65-100 year old vines, this wine is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 30% Carignan. It is opaque ruby in color with aromas of floral, eucalyptus and black fruit. Dry, with medium+ tannins, medium acidity and full body, notes of blackberry, mint and pepper remain throughout the medium+ length.

Casas Patronales, Carmenere Reserva 2008, Maule Valley, Chile, $10.00
A step up from their entry-level wine, the Reserva has a dry palate with medium body and acidity. Its flavors of spice, red fruits, raspberry and a slight hint of earth are typical of the Carmenere variety from which it is made.

Veranda Pinot Noir Oda 2007, Bio Bio Valley, Chile, $27.00
This Pinot Noir is aged in new oak barrels for 14-16 months. Its nose contains notes of candied raspberry, herbal and floral. A dry wine, with medium acidity and medium body, raspberry and herbal flavors persist on the palate.

Vina El Aromo Private Reserve Chardonnay 2009, Maule Valley, Chile, $10.00
This winery has been operating in the Maule Valley since 1926 and has shifted its attention away from bulk wines and onto up-market production. On the nose, pronounced aromas of apples, nuts and oak dominate. The palate is dry and full-bodied, with apple, oak and a hint of spice.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Botrytized Wines: When Bad Mold Goes Good (February 2010)

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Winter is in full swing and, unfortunately, the groundhog did not provide us with any good news this week. But, we can take heart that our imperative to stay inside is a good excuse to curl up with a good glass of wine.

As a reminder, we will once again host the Society of Wine Educators’ Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) Exam on April 10, 2010 at 12:00 PM. While this is a self-study exam, we will be offering a Review Session on March 27, 2010 from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, with a 1-hour lunch break. Registration for the exam itself should be done directly through the Society of Wine Educators’ website and will cost $370.00, with the corresponding study guide.  The full-day review session, inclusive of a light lunch paired with wines, will be $375/person with a discount rate of $295/person for organizations signing up three or more people, with sign-up done through Grand Cru Classes.

And, as a save-the-date, we will be collaborating with Macari Vineyards to present our Sex, Wine & Chocolate event on April 17, 2010 from 3:00-5:00 PM in Macari’s newly expanded tasting room.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

Botrytized Wines: When Bad Mold Goes Good

Growing grapes is a never-ending challenge; no matter where your vines are planted, one must contend with a lengthy list of pests and perils that threaten the health of the vines and grapes. From gusty winds and ravenous birds to virulent bacteria and disease, the vigneron keeps a vigilant eye on his or her vineyard. In maritime climates (those found near bodies of water), damp conditions dominate, providing the perfect opportunity for the development of mold and mildew. In most cases, mold and mildew are negative. However, under the right conditions, one particular blight can lead to a very positive outcome.

When this particular mold behaves badly, it is called bunch rot or grey rot. These grapes will become mushy and useless – incapable of anything other than fodder for the trash heap. However, if the misty mornings are followed by warm, sunny afternoons, a completely different fungus develops. Known as botrytis cinera or noble rot, the mold spores send out tiny filaments, piercing the grape’s skin and chemically-altering their composition. Consequently, the grapes shrivel on the vine, becoming desiccated and concentrated. These “rotten” grapes will actually yield amazing wines, despite their extremely unattractive appearance.

Recognized as a positive element as early as the 17th century, noble rot is now responsible for some of the greatest wines in the world. More specifically, favorable conditions for promoting noble rot are found in the Sauternes area within France’s Bordeaux region; Burgenland in Austria; Eger in Hungary and several regions in Germany. Botrytized wines combine bright acidity and high levels of sugar, which balance each other beautifully, coupled with rich aromas and flavors of citrus, honey, apricot and raisin. They are capable of lengthy ageing, developing further complexity and concentration with time.

Because the rot affects the grape bunches unevenly, the grapes are not only hand-harvested, but they must also be harvested in numerous passes through the vineyard. The famed Chateau d’Yquem of Sauternes is known to send its workers through the fields up to eleven times in a single year’s harvest, while most producers rely on four to nine passes or tries. Additionally, due to significant water evaporation from the grapes, they yield considerably less liquid than non-botrytized grapes. With a regular wine, one grapevine is equivalent to one bottle of wine; with noble rot, one grapevine is equivalent to only one glass of wine. Therefore, these wines typically command high prices. Also, as dessert wines, they are often packaged in smaller 375 ml bottles. Yet, while dessert is a perfect complement to these wines, they can also provide a foil for rich foods such as foie gras and Roquefort cheese.

Tasting Notes

Alois Kracher, Burgenland Beerenauslese Cuvée 2005, Burgenland, Austria, $36.00 (375 ml)
Notes of honey, mushroom, musk and botrytis dominate the nose. Fully sweet, the wine has medium+ acidity, full body and long length. Flavors of honey, spice, dried peach and pineapple pervade the palate.

Château Rieussec, Fargues 2003, Bordeaux, France, $90.00
With a deep golden hue, this wine provides aromas of raisins, spice and dried fruit. On the palate, it is medium-sweet, with medium+ body, balanced acidity and rich flavors of honey, spice and licorice.

Château Guiraud, Sauternes 2001, Bordeaux, France, $110.00
Pronounced aromas of spice, toast, nut and honey greet the nose. The full-bodied palate is medium-sweet with high acidity and complex flavors of honey, licorice, orange marmalade, orange peel and spice.

Château Laufaurie-Peyraguey, Bommes 1955, Bordeaux, France
Showing its age gracefully, this wine has a medium copper color and displays developed aromas of burnt sugar and spice. While still medium-sweet, the sweetness is less overt, with flavors of honey, burnt sugar, vanilla and brandy persisting throughout the long finish.

Dobogo, Tokaji Aszu (6 Puttanyos) 1999, Eger, Hungary, $37.00
Copper in color, this wine is a blend of Harslevelu and Furmint, which are indigenous grapes from the area. Medium-sweet with high acidity, it is full-bodied with pronounced flavors of orange, apricot, cloves, caramel and sweet spice, culminating in long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Que Syrah Syrah (January 2010)

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Happy New Year! We hope that the new year will be a good one for you and your loved ones. For us, it is a safe bet that wine, including Syrah, will feature prominently in our lives. However, unless you have a crystal ball, the only thing we can say for sure is “que sera sera – what will be will be” for 2010.

In the more immediate future, we would like to remind you about our upcoming winemaking seminar with Waters Crest Winery proprietor, James Waters. This special session will take place on Saturday, January 23 2010 from 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM and will feature a comprehensive lesson on how to make wine, along with a discussion on food and wine pairing principles.

In addition, we will once again host the Society of Wine Educators’ Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) Exam on April 10, 2010 at 12:00 PM. While this is a self-study exam, we will be offering a Review Session on March 27, 2010 from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, with a 1-hour lunch break. Registration for the exam itself should be done directly through the Society of Wine Educators’ website and will cost $370.00, with the corresponding study guide.  The full-day review session, inclusive of a light lunch paired with wines, will be $375/person with a discount rate of $295/person for organizations signing up three or more people.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

Que Syrah Syrah

Among the noble grapes, Syrah figures heavily in the world of wine and is the fifth most planted red wine grape in the world. Highly regarded for its powerful, long-lived wines, the best examples are full-bodied, with firm tannins and rich mulberry fruit, leather, smoke and black pepper.

Although the grape originated in Southeast France, it is most known for the big, bold wines hailing from the northern Rhône Valley. Here, the much lauded Côte Rôtie and Hermitage are primarily produced from 100% Syrah, with a small percentage of Viognier and Marsanne, respectively, permitted to be co-fermented. Less well known, and therefore, frequently less pricey, are the appellations of St. Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage, which drink well at a much younger age than their more famous colleagues. Further south in the Rhône Valley, Syrah shares the spotlight with other indigenous varieties within Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Côtes du Rhone blends and is widely planted in Languedoc-Roussillon, where it provides good structure to those wines.

Given its popularity, Sryah can be found in nearly every other wine producing country with key areas including the United States, Australia, Chile and South Africa. Down under, Syrah changed its name to Shiraz. However, while Shiraz, a city found in medieval Persia, was renowned for its wine, the use of its name for this grape variety is a misnomer as there is no true connection between the two. Australian Shiraz tends to be riper, more fruit forward and reminiscent of chocolate or cocoa on the palate compared to the Rhône wines. This is especially true in warmer Australian climates such as the Barossa Valley and the newer, Heathcote region. Cooler climates produce wines with more elegance and spice. When not bottled on its own, Syrah blends well with Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon.

With its hybrid status as neither Old World or New World, South Africa frequently takes its cue in labeling its wines as either Syrah if they are French in style or as Shiraz if they lean toward Australia in style.

The grapes prefer warmer climates where they can achieve full ripeness. Hence, Syrah does well in California’s Napa and Sonoma Valleys as well as in the Central Coast; Oregon’s Rogue Valley (which is much warmer than the northerly Willamette Valley); and in Washington State.

Tasting Notes

Babcock Winery, Identity Crisis Syrah 2008, Santa Barbara County (CA), USA, $15.00
This is truly an unusual wine. With barely a hint of coppery color, it is the least likely looking Syrah. However, it is 100% Syrah vinified in stainless steel without its skins. It has a dry palate with notes of nectarine, cherry and a hint of spice, along with good acidity.

Casas Patronales, Syrah Reserva Privada 2007, Maule Valley, Chile, $15.00
A step above their entry-level wines, Casas Patronales’ Reserva Privada wines see 12 months in oak, compared to 6. This Syrah has aromas of fruit, oak, cocoa and coffee. The full-bodied palate is very earthy, showing some black and red fruit along with some spice and minerality. Long length.

Horse Mountain Wines, Shiraz 2005, Paarl, South Africa, $10.00
Located just over 30 minutes away from Cape Town, Horse Mountain Wines is located within the Western Cape wine region. Its Shiraz, aged in new French and American oak barrels for 12 months, delivers intense aromas of spice and berries. On the palate, ripe tannins mingle with dark fruit flavors and baking spice.

Loan Wines, Shiraz 2004, Barossa Valley, Australia, $35.00
The hand-picked grapes for this wine come from the vineyards of Loan Wines, which are Certified Organic. With its small batch production (400 cases) and limited yield (1.5 tons/acre), the wine shows deep intense flavors of black fruit, spice and tar.

Monticello Vineyards, Estate Grown Syrah 2006, Oak Knoll District (Napa Valley), USA, $50.00
With familial roots in Virginia, founder Jay Corley sought to honor his ancestors as well as Thomas Jefferson by naming his wine in recognition of Jefferson’s home. Their Syrah is grown on the valley floor in Napa’s Oak Knoll District. This wine presents developing aromas of oak, cedar, and fainter notes of berry, spice and earth. Full-bodied on the palate, lush black cherry flavors are joined by notes of oak, cedar, earth and spice.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Cellar Stockers IV (December 2009)

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‘Tis the season to be jolly and what better way to celebrate the season than with the gift of wine. Accordingly, our annual gift-giving guide returns this month to help you find the perfect gift for everyone on your list.

Beyond the bottle, a gift certificate from Grand Cru Classes is the gift that always fits. Purchase seats to a public class, provide them with wine consulting services or offer them the gift of a private wine event. Certificates are elegantly packaged with a set of wine charms and can be sent directly to you or the recipient (your choice).

For a very unique opportunity, why not treat someone in your life to a special winemaking series with Grand Cru Classes and Jim Waters, owner and winemaker at Waters Crest Winery? Details will be sent out separately as soon as they are available.

If you find yourself entertaining for the holidays and want to throw a wine-themed party, we still have a few dates available. Call or e-mail us for a quote.

Hosting on a smaller scale? Let us make your life easier with our wine shopping services. Simply provide us with your wine budget, number of guests expected and any themes or preferences and we’ll create the perfect wine list for your event, arrange for delivery and design customized tasting sheets and information on each wine, all for a flat fee of $175.00.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

CELLAR STOCKERS IV

The holidays bring a flurry of parties and visits with friends and family. Don’t arrive empty-handed. Instead, reach for a festive sparkler that sets the tone and is sure to please: Juve y Camps, Reserva de la Familia 2004, Catalonia, Spain, $13.00. 

Hosting at home? Appeal to their green side with an organic wine (from Washington State’s first Certified Organic vineyard) that not only tastes great, but is also great for the environment with Badger Mountain Vineyards Pure White 2007, Columbia Valley, WA ($22.00 -3L box).

Show your parents you appreciate them with a wine from the year you were born. Check out a vintage chart to see what wines were ageworthy and are still drinking well; then, turn to a store that carries older vintages to find that special bottle. If this proves to be too much of a challenge, consider an elegant Italian wine: Scavino, Barolo Carobric 2004, Piedmont, Italy, $75.00.

You might be less enamored with your in-laws (or maybe not), but don’t let it show, by sending them world-class Chablis from a stellar vintage: Joseph Drouhin Domaine de Vaudon, Vaudesir Grand Cru 2008, Chablis, France, $72.00.

If you’ve made a new acquaintance, take this time to let them know you care with a fresh, fruit-forward white wine that isn’t among the usual suspects: Treana, Proprietary White 2007, Paso Robles, CA, $17.00.

Thank your best friend for being there for you all year long. Toast your friendship with a voluptuous Pinot Noir: Brooks, “Janus” Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley, OR, $35.00.

Finally, let your love for one another shine through with the sparkle of Champagne in a romantic hue by choosing a classic rosé option: Ayala Rosé “Majeur” NV, Champagne, France $60.00.

See the Tasting Notes section for detailed notes on the above wines.

Tasting Notes

Juve y Camps, Reserva de la Familia 2004, Catalonia, Spain, $13.00
This family-owned winery is located in the heartland of the Penedes region – San Sadurni d’Anoia. Produced from a traditional blend of Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo, the intense nose presents with notes of yeast, citrus and mineral, with rich flavors of citrus and yeast on the round and creamy palate. 

Badger Mountain Vineyards Pure White 2007, Columbia Valley, WA, $22.00 -3L box
A blend of Semillon, Muller-Thurgau and Sauvignon Blanc, this wine has a wonderfully floral nose, but is dry on the palate with citrus and tropical fruit notes. With no sulfites or other preservatives added, the winemaking is organic as well. Packaged in environmentally friendly cardboard, this box contains the equivalent of 4 bottles of wine with a vastly reduced carbon footprint due to its lower weight, yet, once opened, will remain fresh for weeks.

Scavino, Barolo Carobric 2004, Piedmont, Italy, $75.00
A beautiful Barolo from highly respected winemaker Enrico Scavino, this wine has a very floral nose. The palate consists of black fruits – mostly dark berries – with continued floral notes, dried herbs and firm tannins, culminating in long length. 

Joseph Drouhin Domaine de Vaudon, Vaudesir Grand Cru 2008, Chablis, France, $72.00
This wine has pronounced minerality, damp earth, bruised apple and a slight woody note on the nose, all of which re-appeared on the rich palate and remained throughout the exceedingly long finish. 

Treana, Proprietary White 2007, Paso Robles, CA, $17.00
A 50-50 blend of Marsanne and Viognier (both Rhone Valley varietals), this wine is dry with very ripe, tropical fruit aromas. On the palate, pineapple and an undercurrent of stone persist throughout the medium length. 

Brooks, “Janus” Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley, OR, $35.00
A relatively complex wine for the price with vibrant acidity and very lush fruit, this palate shows raspberry, cherry, violet and slight herbal notes. 

Ayala Rosé “Majeur” NV, Champagne, France $60.00.
Although Champagne house Ayala was established in 1860, its wines only recently returned to the U.S. With an elegant bouquet of fresh red fruits, the wine is dry with crisp acidity and raspberry and toast and is suitable as an aperitif, but can just as easily carry you through the meal and could even accompany light, fruit-based desserts.