The Hills Are Alive with the Sound of Schiava: Grand Cru Grapevine (May 2013)

Posted on May 2, 2013 by Tracy

My colleague and friend, Tim Gaiser, was in New York in late April to sing the praises of Alto Adige, accompanied by several of the region’s winemakers. And, singing its praises is quite apropos. At a previous seminar on the region, Cornerstone Communication’s CEO Marsha Palanci explained that, “This is the only part of Italy where you can hear yodeling in one window and arias in another.” Not surprisingly, in looking at regional photos, you would half expect Julie Andrews to suddenly appear and belt out songs from the Sound of Music.

Nestled between Italy to the south and Switzerland and Austria to the north, Alto Adige is the northernmost region of Italy. The region was under Austrian rule from the defeat of Napolean until 1919, hence the yodeling. And, to this day, both German and Italian are the official languages. With the Dolomites to the East and the Alps to the north, Alto Adige is sheltered from the cold forces of the North. These mountain ranges also form a rain shadow, which limits the area’s overall rainfall, the result of which is 300 sunny days per year.

The vast valley floors are littered with apple orchard after apple orchard, which accounts for the region’s claim as the largest European producer of apples. Meanwhile, the area’s steep slopes (with an average slope of 50 to 60 degrees, similar to that found in the Mosel or Wachau) are given over to white grapes while the lower, rolling hills are planted to reds. The high elevation of these vineyards provides good sunlight, which promotes ripening, and a significant diurnal shift (temperature variation from day to night can fluctuate as much as 40 degrees F), which retains high acid levels in the grapes.

Within the region, grape production spreads out from central Bolzano in a Y-shaped configuration, bearing a striking resemblance (in Tim’s eyes) to the flux capacitor from Back to the Future. The yin-yang of past and present spills over to the grapes themselves. At nearly 20% of all plantings, Schiava is the most grown variety in the region, with its first documented mention dating to the 1600s. However, this ancient grape has been associated with Italy since the 1300s. Big berried, with thin skins, Sciava is known for producing wines with low tannins, low alcohol and cherry aromas and flavors and an almond aftertaste. These are elegant wines for everyday drinking.

Other key varieties include Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco (aka Pinot Blanc), Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Nero (aka Pinot Noir) and Lagrein, the diversity of which highlight the region’s Germanic and French influences. White plantings account for 58% and have been on the rise.

Regardless of the specific variety used, Alto Adige wines are known for their high quality. In fact, when considered separate from Trentino, Alto Adige is the smallest of Italy’s 20 regions; yet, despite its limited size, 98% of its production is at the Protected Designation of Origin level – the most of any Italian region. And that’s something to sing about.

TASTING NOTES

Kaltern Caldaro Pinot Grigio Söll 2011, Alto Adige DOC, Austria, $16.00
This is a classic Pinot Grigio with smoke, floral and citrus aromas and flavors. Twenty percent of the wine was aged in used barrels, which gives it some more depth on the palate. It is bone dry with high acidity and distinctly mineral in the long finish.

Cantina Terlano Sauvignon Blanc Quarz 2010, Alto Adige Terlano DOC, Austria, $53.00
We tasted two Sauvignon Blancs during Tim’s seminar with this being the softer style of the two. Stone and mineral characteristics co-mingled with citrus, peach and slightly herbal notes with medium+ acidity and medium to full body.

Tramin Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer 2011, Alto Adige DOC, Austria, $47.00
I really enjoyed this wine with its distinct floral and tropical fruit notes, so indicative of the Gewürztraminer grape. What I also liked was its lack of lavender/soap characteristics that some of these wines tend to have (for me). Exotic and spicy on the palate, this dry wine has beautiful acidity and long length.

Castelfeder Schiava Breitbacher 2011, Alto Adige DOC, Austria, $14.00
Pale ruby in color, this dry wine is very refreshing with high acidity and light body along with aromas and flavors of cherries, floral, earth and wet leaves. It is very easy to drink and would be a perfect accompaniment for a wide range of cuisine.

Tiefenbrunner Lagrein Riserva Linticlarus 2009, Alto Adige DOC, Austria, $26.00
Described by my friend Tony as being reminiscent of beets, this wine displays rich red and black cherry aromas joined by floral, mineral and granite notes. It has medium+ acidity and is nicely structured with full body and firm tannins and could age for up to ten years.

All photos courtesy of Alto Adige Wines.

Grand Cru Grapevine: ‘Tis the Season to Think Pink (April 2013)

Posted on April 2, 2013 by Tracy

Image courtesy of the CIVP

With indictments accusing Puxatawny Phil of fraud being filed across the country, it’s clear that everyone is ready for spring. Whether it’s cabin fever, a thorough dislike of cold weather and snow or simply a desire to wear short-sleeves and sandals, the lure of warmer weather tantalizes us all. And, small, but simple, signs – sightings of ramps and fiddlehead ferns at the market, robins heard overhead or crocuses blooming on the lawn – provide a glimmer of hope that perhaps spring has finally arrived.

Although Alfred Lord Tennyson noted that “In the spring, a young man’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love,” a wine lover’s fancy might turn to thoughts of lighter wines, with the many shades of rosé serving as a further reminder of the change of seasons, a pink lining to the dark cloud that has been winter. Thus, we happily turn our attention to the rosés of Provence this month.

We hope that you will feel lighter in your heart with a spring in your step as we usher in this time of renewal and collectively “think pink.”

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

‘Tis the Season to Think Pink

Admittedly, rose-hued wines can be enjoyed all year round, but the palest blush of these pink wines heralded the near arrival of spring in New York as producers from Provence strutted their wines for press and trade in early March. Moreover, the message was made clear – thinking pink is no longer a fad. With nine years of growth in the U.S. market, rosé is one of the U.S.’s fastest growing wine categories in retail sales. While rosé wines hail from all over the wine world, France is the number one producer of rosé wine worldwide and Provence accounts for forty percent of all the French quality-level rosé wine production. In fact, the majority of Provence’s production (nearly 88 percent) is allocated to making rosé wines.

Blessed with near perfect, Mediterranean climate conditions, Provence prides itself on being the birthplace of all French wine. In fact, winemaking in the region dates to 600 BCE, representing a total of twenty-six centuries of wine production in France. Although the regional area is the IGP de Méditerranée, most Provencal wine is produced at the AOC-level with lovely dry rosés made principally from Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsaut. Tibouren, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon also complement these blends.

The 65,000 acres dedicated to rosé production are centered in three appellations: Côtes de Provence, which has three sub-appellations, and is the largest at 73 percent of overall production; Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, which comprises an additional 17 percent of production; and Coteaux Varois en Provence, which accounts for the remaining 10 percent.

Almost all of these wines are produced using temperature-controlled, stainless steel fermentation with an emphasis on maintaining vibrant acidity and fresh fruit aromas and flavors. These dry style rosés are exceptionally food-friendly, pairing well with a broad range of cuisines as well as being easily enjoyed on its own.

Les Vins Bréban L’Opale de la Presqu’ile de Saint Tropez 2012, Côtes de Provence, France, $14.00 This wine brings together 50% Grenache, 30% Carignan and 20% Cinsault. It was meatier and fleshier than some of the other wines I sampled that day with berry and peach notes. Nicely structured with slight grip and a hint of citrus pith, the wine has long length.

Mas de Cadenet Arbaude Rose 2012, Côtes de Provence, France, $15.00 Established by the Négrel family, Mas de Cadenet celebrates its 200^th anniversary this year, with the 7^th generation now at the helm. The family’s estate, named for a shrub in the juniper family, is situated near Aix-en-Provence. The Arbaude cuvée is a blend of 70% Syrah, 15% Carignan and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and displays fleshy, melon aromas and flavors with vibrant acidity, slight citrus pith and minerality on the elegant palate.

Maison Saint Aix AIX 2012, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, France, $20.00 With its very attractive, graphic label, this wine caught my eye across the room. After tasting it, it won over my palate as well. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Counoise, this wine offers up fresh, ripe berry fruit character on both the nose and palate. A slight minerality is evident on the palate, culminating in long length.

Château Coussin 2012, Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire, France, $25.00 Produced by the Sumerire family, which traces its heritage in the area back to the 13^th century, this wine is a blend of Grenache (70%), Cinsault (20%) and Syrah (10%). It has a beautifully floral nose with delicate fruit on the palate, which is joined by a hint of minerality in the finish. I also had the opportunity to taste the 2011 vintage of this wine, which showed some complexity in its year of development with darker fruit character than the 2012.

Château d’Esclans 2012, Côtes de Provence, France, $35.00 Well-known for its Whispering Angel rosé, Caves d’Esclans produces several other rosé wines including this one, which is a blend of Grenache, Rolle, Syrah, Tibouren and Cinsault. With some of the wine spending time in neutral oak barrels and undergoing bâtonnage (lees stirring), this wine takes on some complexity and structure, but still displays hallmark floral, melon and berry aromas.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Recanati Wines, In Search of a Few Good Grapes (March 2013)

Posted on March 4, 2013 by Tracy

Think Bordeaux and the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot varieties naturally spring to mind, while thoughts of Burgundy immediately recall Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But when it comes to Israeli wines, no specific grape variety comes to mind. Recanati’s winemaker, Gil Shatsberg, agrees. Moreover, he knows that the last thing that the world needs is another Merlot or Chardonnay. Yes, he does produce wines from these two (and other) grape varieties, but, since 2008, Gil has been working to more clearly define Israeli wines.

Shatsberg’s quest coincided with his arrival at Recanati. Launched in 2000, Recanati is owned by Lenny Recanati, an Israeli businessman with a passion for collecting wine. Originally from Saloniki, the Recanati family then lived in Italy for centuries before moving to Israel in 1933. With this Italian heritage, Lenny’s parents made wine from grapes grown in the backyard when he was a child, nurturing his love of wine. They winery initially produced 200,000 bottles and currently has an annual production of 83,000 cases, with 80% devoted to reds and 20% to whites.

Today, Shatsberg is looking to make wines that work well in Israel, beginning with the country’s Mediterranean climate and ending with the diversity of Israeli cuisine. Consequently, his search has led him to plant Mediterranean grape varieties such as Viognier, Petite Sirah and Grenache. Similarly, he has found existing vineyards that meet the same criteria such as a dry-farmed vineyard with 30 year old Carignan vines in the Judea Hills. Overall, he aims for elegant wines without high alcohol levels and that are meant to be drunk young, choosing to pick early, macerate for only a short period of time and ferment at cool temperatures.

Although many of the newer plantings have not yet come online, the winery is producing high quality wines from the usual suspects and has started its focus on Mediterranean blends. And, unlike the kosher wines from childhood memory, these certified kosher wines are an absolute pleasure to drink!

WINE TASTING NOTES

Recanati Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Shomron, Israel, $15.00
Sourced from grapes grown in the Upper Galilee, this wine delivers aromas of tropical fruit, pineapple and slight floral notes. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, rich and ripe fruit (especially pineapple), slight spice, and a round, full body, culminating in medium to long length.

Recanati Special Reserve White 2010, Galilee, Israel, $53.00
Produced from a vineyard selection of the winery’s top vines, harvested at limited yields, this wine is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 25% Viognier and 25% Sauvignon Blanc. Fermented in barrels with sur lie/bâtonnage aging, Shatsberg looks to Burgundy as his winemaking inspiration for this wine. The result is notes of honey, oak, pineapple, spice and orange with a dry palate of medium+ acidity and full body. Flavors of pineapple, tropical fruit, orange/tangerine, floral and a hint of peach are joined by slight spice and toothpick character in the finish.

Recanati Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Galilee, Israel, $17.00
Although these grapes are planted at a lower elevation than many other Recanati vineyards, this wine is still lively on the palate despite its big, bold fruit profile. The pronounced nose of blackberry and plum gives way to spices – cinnamon and anise. Dry on the palate with medium+ acidity and soft tannins, juicy fruit dominates the wine’s flavor profile.

Recanati Petite Sirah-Zinfandel Reserve 2011, Galilee, Israel, $26.00
A blend of 95% Petite Sirah, accented with 5% Zinfandel, Gil notes that it is important to green harvest (remove unripe grapes early on in the season) the Petite Sirah, which is capable of high yields, in order to permit the grapes to fully ripen. Intense floral, red fruit and spice aromas greet the nose. The dry palate has medium+ acidity and medium+ tannins with ripe, but balanced, red and black fruit character and long length.

Recanati Wild Carignan Reserve 2011, Judea Hills, Israel, $50.00
Produced from 100% Carignan grapes, this wine is sourced from an old vineyard near the kibbutz where Gil grew up and spends six to eight months aging in barrel. The nose offers up aromas of black fruit, blueberry, slight oak and cinnamon/spice. The dry palate has medium+ acidity along with notes of vanilla and black and bramble fruit. Despite a slight rusticity to this wine with its dusty tannins, it is very nicely structured and complex.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Laisser Les Bons Temps Rouler, An Introduction to Brazilian Wines (February 2013)

Posted on February 5, 2013 by Tracy

Home to the biggest carnival celebration worldwide (and thought of as the benchmark for all others), Brazil knows how to party! But, when it comes to libations, Brazil has been much more known for its cachaça than for its wine. In fact, although Brazil is the largest country in South America in terms of land mass, it only ranks third in terms of wine production, well behind Argentina and Chile. Previously, its wine was rarely seen outside the country mostly because the quality was not up to world standards and domestic demand was sufficient to account for most of the production. However, as in many emerging wine markets, times are changing and Brazilian wine has seen significant improvement. Moreover, Brazilian wine producers are beginning to share their wines with the world, with several of these wines now available in the U.S.

As a wine producing country, Brazil faces several challenges. Since only the southernmost part of Brazil extends into the temperate latitudes suitable for grapegrowing, nearly all of the production is centered here. But, despite being more moderate than the rest of Brazil, the region is still hot and humid given its proximity to the equator. Interestingly, this geographic position means that the vines can go through two complete growing cycles, permitting two harvests annually. To combat the humidity, the majority of the vineyards are planted with native American and French-American hybrid varieties, which are much more mildew resistant. Yet, most of the international varieties are grown as well, along with Moscato, Glera (the grape used to produce Italy’s Prosecco) and Pinotage. And, the reliance on these grapes is increasing.

Much of the Brazilian wine renaissance has taken place in southeastern Brazil, which accounts for most of Brazil’s vineyard land. This larger area can be divided into five distinct regions: Serra Gaúcha, Campanha, Serra do Sudeste, Campos de Cima da Serra, and Planalto Catarinense. A sixth region, Vale do São Francisco, is located in the northeast of Brazil. Within Serra Gaúcha is the country’s only official Denominazione di Origem (DO): Vale dos Vinhedos. While Vale dos Vinhedos originally gained recognition in 2001 as an Indication of Origin (IO), which was recognized by European Union in 2007, the valley was granted the higher status of DO in 2011. Wines holding this classification must comply with more specific regulations regarding the production of grapes and winemaking. Chief among the regulations, only vitis vinifera (European) grape varieties are permitted, with Merlot and Chardonnay being specified as the flagship grapes and requiring 85 percent minimums for varietal labeling of these wines. In addition to single variety wines, red blends are produced as are sparkling wines in both the Tank and Traditional Methods. As Brazil’s wine industry continues its upward trajectory, let’s raise a glass and let the good times roll.

TASTING NOTES

Vinicola Aurora Carnaval Moscato White Espumante NV, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $13.00 A Charmat Method sparkling wine produced from Moscato Bianco and Moscato Giallo grapes, this wine offers up floral and peach aromas. On the palate, it is off-dry, nicely balanced by acidity, with white flowers and juicy, ripe peach flavors; simple, but balanced and refreshing.

Vinicola Aurora Carnaval Moscato Pink Espumante NV, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $13.00
From the same producer and grape variety, this wine is produced similarly to the Moscato White, but it is medium salmon in color with red flowers and red fruit aromas. Strawberry and cherry flavors co-mingle on the off-dry palate, which is slightly sweeter than the Moscato White, yet finishes very cleanly.

Basso Monte Paschoal Virtus Moscato 2011, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $16.00 Like many South Americans, the Basso family came from Italy in the late 1800s and established their current facility in 1940. Exhibiting classic Muscat aromas of floral/jasmine, Asian pear, peach and a hint of grapiness, this wine is a pleasant surprise given its dry and medium-bodied palate with sufficiently vibrant acidity. Very refreshing and easily paired with a variety of cuisine.

Salton Talento 2007, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $26.00
The Salton Winery was the first Brazilian winery to celebrate its 100^th anniversary and is presently run by the third generation of the family. The Talento is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Tannat, which has been aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. Meaty, red fruit and slight spice aromas greet the nose, joined by herbal and coffee notes on the dry, medium-to-full bodied palate.

Salton Desejo 2007, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil, $26.00
Salton’s Desejo is produced from 100% Merlot, which has been aged in oak barrels (50% French; 50% American oak) for 12 months. The wine has aromas of dried herbs, cut grass and black cherry, all of which persist on the full-bodied palate, coupled with anise and spice.

Lidio Carraro Grande Vindima Quorum 2009, Vale dos Vinhedos, Brazil, $65.00
Produced only in the best years, the Grande Vindima 2006 is a blend of 40% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Tannat and 15% Cabernet Franc, with no time spent in wood. The nose is dominated by cinnamon, red fruit and sage, while floral and minty notes present on the palate, culminating in long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Through Rose-colored Glasses (January 2013)

Posted on January 30, 2013 by Tracy

In keeping with an optimistic spirit, Rosé Champagne is the perfect wine to kick off the new year! As Ed McCarthy exclaimed at the Wine Media Guild’s annual Champagne luncheon in December, “Rosé Champagne is ‘in’!” Its success has been a bit surprising to everyone, including the Champenois, given that Rosé Champagne was considered an afterthought only 12 years ago. Now, it makes up 8% of the market and is on the rise. This continued trajectory is equally surprising considering that it is more expensive than regular (non-rosé) Champagne. But, it is also more intensive and, at least according to Ed, “Everybody loves it!” Whether this latter statement is fact or hyperbole, what is true is that Rosé Champagne has a fuller body than regular Champagne, due to the increased ratio of Pinot Noir grapes and is extremely food friendly.

As Champagne, Rosé Champagnes are produced using the Méthode Champenoise, referred to as the Traditional Method for similar wines produced elsewhere. These wines spend considerable time aging in contact with dead yeast cells that give the wines their yeasty, leesy, bready aromas and flavors. In addition, Rosé Champagnes also have fruitier aromas and flavors that are derived from the heavier reliance on Pinot Noir and the deliberate creation of color. While Pinot Noir is a component of most Champagnes —the obvious exception being the blanc de blancs (white from whites) style—Champagne producers are careful to avoid extracting color from the grapes’ skins. However, when creating a Rosé Champagne, the focus shifts and some color attainment is permitted. Such color may be produced through the saignée method (as is often used for still rosé wines), or by creating a cuvée that includes red wine in the blend to produce a pinkish base wine. However, red wine may be blended in at the end with the dosage instead to avoid potential browning during the lees aging period. Regardless of when it occurs, sparkling wine production is the only time that adding red wine to a white wine is acceptable in creating a rosé-style wine.

The wines featured in this month’s newsletter are some of my favorites from the December lunch at which we tasted a total of 15 wines. As noted, these are pricey wines, but, thankfully, many of my preferred wines were on the lower end of the spectrum.

TASTING NOTES

Ayala Brut Rosé NV, $48-54.00
We’ve featured Ayala, the sister brand of Bollinger, before, but as it is always continues to perform well in comparative tastings it is worth featuring again. With rich fruit aromas of floral and ripe strawberry and slight yeasty notes, this wine was elegant on the palate with a delicate mousse.

Alfred Gratien Brut Rosé NV, $62-75.00
At the luncheon, Ed noted that he was very impressed with this wine, as was I. It displayed a very yeasty character on the nose with melon aromas and flavors. It was dry with very high acidity, finishing quite cleanly on the palate.

Bruno Paillard Brut Rosé Premier Cuvée NV, $70-75.00
As a rosé, this wine is very pale, dislaying an onion skin color. On the nose, it has yeast, slight floral and strawberry aromas, similar to, but more subtle than those found on the Ayala. Its palate was very pretty with extremely dry palate, high acidity and floral and strawberry flavors.

Henriot Brut Rosé NV, $58-62.00
Henriot has a long history as a Champagne house, but has been less known in the U.S. Offering a light and elegant style, this wine has raspberry, yeasty and slight toast aromas giving way to riper fruit on the front palate, with the toasty notes lingering in the finish.

Moët & Chandon Brut Rosé 2002, $80.00
From the highly regarded 2002 vintage, this is a big, yet austere wine that still needs some time to evolve to truly shine, although it was showing beautifully already. Toast and biscuit aromas dominate the nose, along with a slightly oxidative note. The dry palate is lean with yeast, toast and fresh berry flavors.

Perrier-Jouët Cuvée Belle Epoque Rosé 2004, $300.00
Admittedly a big splurge, this is a wine I frequently drawn to even in blind tastings and, in Ed’s words, it is the “epitome of elegance,” likely due to high proportion of Chardonnay. Yeast and strawberries greet the nose and persist on the dry palate where they are rich and concentrated, culminating in long length.

Through Rose-colored Glasses: Grand Cru Grapevine (Jan 2013)

Posted on January 2, 2013 by Tracy

TASTING NOTES

Grand Cru Grapevine: California Wines with a French Pedigree (December 2012)

Posted on December 15, 2012 by Tracy

Frenchman Bernard Portet first visited California on a fact-finding mission back in the late 1960s and then returned in 1971 to help launch Clos du Val. After a few months in the Napa Valley, he suggested that his wife come join him as he expected to stay longer than originally planned – perhaps through harvest 1972. Thankfully, she accepted the invitation since he never left, serving not only as co-founder, but also as the company’s full-time winemaker for nearly 40 years. And, for almost four decades, Bernard helped to establish Clos du Val as a highly regarded name in the wine industry.

As the ninth generation of his family to be in the wine business, Bernard brought a lot of knowledge with him from France, which he applied to his new venture. For example, at the time, there was no concept of terroir. Winery managers, not winemakers, bought grapes from a myriad of growers, a practice which has significantly changed. But, Bernard recognized the unique qualities of the Stag’s Leap District prompting him and his partner, John Goelet, to purchase 178 acres and plant the estate’s first vineyards.

Also of note, while most California producers were focused on single variety wines – Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot – the Bordeaux-bred Bernard saw the benefit of blends. Consequently, the wine he produced was a combination of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, creating, in Bernard’s words, “a more complete wine.”

Almost immediately, Clos du Val’s quality was recognized. Chosen by Steven Spurrier as one of six California Cabernet Sauvignons to be included in the 1976 Judgment of Paris, the wine placed eighth overall. Ten years later, it took the top place in the French Culinary Institute Wine Tasting, a rematch of the original event. European in style, Clos du Val was quickly embraced by the east coast as one of the first California wines to be sold there.

But, in 2009, Bernard decided it was to retire and said good bye to the venerable brand he helped to create. But, as with Bernard’s previous best laid plans, somehow retirement didn’t stick. Today, Bernard is at the helm of another new venture – Heritance Wines. The moniker – a merger of “heritage” and “inheritance” – is Bernard’s way of conveying his sense of gratitude and all that he learned from his father and forefathers.

The year 2012 marked Bernard’s fortieth vintage in the Napa Valley and, not surprisingly, a lot has happened in forty years. But, while Heritance’s wines differ from those of Clos du Val, Bernard brings his same winemaking philosophy to this project. Although, at a recent lunch, when asked for specific pairing suggestions on what would go well with his wines, he replied, “Good company,” it is clear that he “…want[s] to make wine that goes well with food.” Toward this goal, Bernard blends across lots and grape varieties to arrive at the finished product. He adds that as the flavors of the food go away, the flavors of the wine should take over on the palate; wines with a soft entry and a fleshy element.

And, most importantly, the new wines truly reflect Bernard’s approach. Remaining steadfast to Bernard’s roots, Heritance, of course, produces a Cabernet Sauvignon. The tasting notes for the 2008 and 2010 are included below, but when both Cabernet wines were tasted alongside the inaugural Clos du Val (1972), the pedigree of the wines was unmistakable. While the aged wine understandably offered up the developed characteristics of a 40-year-old wine, its structural elements were clearly evident in the two modern-day wines. It was almost as if the 2008 and 2010 were looking in a mirror at their future selves – uncanny and especially heartwarming, as it gave us hope that these were wines that would age equally gracefully.

TASTING NOTES

Heritance Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Napa Valley, CA, $24.00
With 9% Semillon blended into the wine giving it a depth and roundness on the palate, the 2010 is decidedly Bordeaux in style. Melon, citrus and slight pith with medium+ acidity.

Heritance Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Napa Valley, CA, $24.00
For the cooler 2011 vintage, Bernard dispensed with the Semillon and, instead, blended in 12% Rousanne, providing more floral character and tropical fruit than the Sauvignon Blanc would have had on its own. High acid, citrus; nervy and more austere than the 2010.

Heritance Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir 2011, Carneros, CA, $45.00 (300 cases produced)
Bernard acknowledges that Pinot Noir can be pushed in the vineyard, almost to the point of becoming Grenache, so is cautious about harvest parameters when working with growers and carefully sources his fruit, blending lots when necessary. Cherries bursting out of the glass with a slight herbal character, which becomes more prominent when enjoyed with food.

Heritance Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa Valley, CA, $36.00
Blended with 8% Merlot, this wine was showing moderate acidity (it was a relatively warm year) and some development, with the primary black fruit aromas and flavors having faded a bit.

Heritance Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Napa Valley, CA, $36.00
The 2010 (a cooler year) includes 4% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, and displayed brighter acidity, smokey notes and lush blackberry fruit, but was extremely balanced despite its ripe character.

Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon 1972, Napa Valley, CA ($6.00 upon release in 1974) A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, this wine offered up beautiful complexity. Dried red and black fruit, balsamic and spice notes were joined by truffles, sage and a silkiness on the palate.

Grand Cru Grapevine: France’s Southwest ~ The United Nations in a Glass (November 2012)

Posted on November 14, 2012 by Tracy

Just a proverbial stone’s throw from Bordeaux, the wines of southwest France offer an interesting perspective. Located south of Bordeaux and north of Languedoc, winemaking in this region is not new; it dates to 125 BCE. Yet, while Bordeaux has held fame and fortune for centuries, these smaller appellations cover a vast area, but have been largely ignored…until now.

Despite the area’s relative obscurity, many of France’s heralded grapes are given space in these vineyards. Bordeaux’s key grapes – Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet France and Merlot – are joined by the Rhône Valley’s Syrah and Beaujolais’ Gamay. Even more remarkable, these same grapes come together in a single glass, proving that, at least viticulturally, we can all learn to get along.

Meanwhile, other varieties grown in the region are found nowhere else – Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng, Mauzac and Arrufiac are among the top whites, with Fer Servadou, Prunelard and Négrette leading the reds. And the vast diversity is impressive; wines range from dry whites and sweet whites to tannic reds and softer, easy-drinking reds to sparkling wines produced in ancient methods that predate Champagne’s rise to prominence.

Those appellations which might draw some recognition include: Cahors, Madiran, Gaillac and Jurançon (not to be confused with the Jura, located in northeast France). However, names like Marcillac, Brulhois and Fronton are likely known to only to a few die-hard, franco-oenophiles. But, these are all names you should consider getting to know.

Why? Well, for starters, the reputation may not precede them, but the quality is certainly there. And, as the land of gastronomy – foie gras, duck cassoulet and delicious cheeses – you can be sure that these folks know their food and wine, meaning that the wines are extremely food-friendly. Moreover, as already mentioned, there is a wealth of wine styles from which to choose. But, if that’s not enough, perhaps their price tags will convince you. Of the six tasting notes included below, all are under $25.00, most are $12.00 or less and one even has a suggested retail price of $5.00.

So, truly, there is no reason not to embrace these magnanimous wines.

Domaine Tariquet Classic 2011, Côtes de Gasgogne IGP, France, $9.00
45% Ugni Blanc, 35% Colombard, 10% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Gros Manseng
Family-run since 1912, Domaine Tariquet also produces the local spirit, Armagnac. Melon and citrus aromas greet the nose. Dry with medium+ acidity, this wine shows flavors of apple and melon with a leesy character lingering in the long finish.

Domaine de la Chanade La Coste Blanche 2011, Gaillac AOP, France, $5.00
80% Loin de l’Oeil, 20% Mauzac
Among the newer producers, Domaine de la Chanade was established in 1997. With citrus and pronounced floral notes, this wine displays piercing acidity on the dry, light-bodied palate, with honey, apple and almond flavors.

Domaine Le Roc Le Roc la Saignée 2011, Fronton AOP, France, $12.00
Located near Toulouse, Domaine Le Roc has created a rosé that can stand up to steak! A blend of Négrette and Syrah, this wine spends four to five months on the lees. It has a red wine nose with black fruit, slight herbs and meat, all of which persist on the palate. Dry with a fruity attack, the medium tannins are especially perceptible on the finish.

Domaine du Moulin Méthode Gaillacoise 2011, Gaillac AOP, France, $18.00
The Hirissou family has been making wine for three centuries. This sparkling wine is produced from 100% Mauzac and offers up yeasty, floral and apple aromas. On the palate, it is slightly off-dry, but finishes very cleanly with yeast and apple flavors and a nice, creamy mousse.

Vignobles Arbeau Château Coutinel Tradition 2009, Fronton AOP, France, $9.00
60% Négrette, 20% Gamay, 10% Syrah, 10% Malbec
Vignobles Arbeau was created in 1878. A fruity nose displays aromas of black berries, floral and herbs. The palate is dry with bright acidity, cherry flavors and ripe, medium tannins.

Plaimont Producteurs Saint Albert 2011, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh AOP, France, $24.00
Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng, Petit Corbu, Arrufiac (percentages not stated)
Plaimont Producteurs was established when three co-ops came together in 1979. This dessert wine shows notes of peach, yeast and honey on the nose. Its medium sweet palate is decidedly a dessert wine, but, with medium+ to high acidity, it is not cloying. Peaches, honey and yeast all persist on the palate throughout the wine’s long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Portuguese Wines ~ A Fun Lesson in Diversity Awareness (October 2012)

Posted on October 5, 2012 by Tracy

Long known for its high quality fortified wines – namely Port and Madeira – Portugal’s reputation for its non-fortified wines was less than stellar. Thanks to a renewed focus on quality, most notably in the wineries themselves, things are changing. The country now has an expanded repertoire of quality wines, which offer diverse styles at excellent values for today’s consumer.

Part of the secret to Portugal’s success is owed to its range of climates. Despite its small size, the country has three distinct zones, which influence the styles of wine that can be produced. Due to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, the coastal part of northern Portugal is lush and green with abundant rainfall. Here, temperatures are moderate and humidity is high. Continuing south along the coast, the climate becomes more Mediterranean, with warmer summers, mild winters, and less precipitation. Meanwhile, a series of mountain ranges in the interior blocks the moderating influence of the ocean and the climate becomes decidedly continental and arid. These inland valleys, especially those close to the Spanish border, feature blistering hot summers and very cold winters, with minimal precipitation.

Along with its diverse climate, Portugal has embraced a wide variety of grapes, choosing to rely on native varieties instead of the more internationally known Cabernet Sauvignon and the like. Instead, grapes such as Castelão and Fernão Pires, essentially found nowhere else, dominate the vineyards. Mostly planted in the south, Castelão can produce red wines with complex, herbaceous character, but can also be vinified in a more easy-drinking style. Fernão Pires, alternately called Maria Gomes, is a very aromatic white grape variety, made into dry and dessert, as well as sparkling, wines.

Red grapes take the lead, with two-thirds of all wine production being red. Aside from the aforementioned Castelão, Portuguese reds frequently feature one or more of the preferred Port varieties. Specifically, Touriga Nacional, capable of producing complex wines with firm structure and black fruit; Touriga Franca, with its floral, blackberry and plum notes; and Tinta Roriz, known elsewhere in as Tempranillo, with red fruit, olive and herbal characteristics. Another variety with significant acreage is the extremely tannic Baga grape, which is often aged in older barrels so as not to add additional tannins, yielding wines with robust wines with plum and tobacco notes, capable of aging for a long time.

White grapes are regionally prominent, especially in the cooler areas in the north and on the islands. In Vinho Verde, Loureiro and Alvarinho (synonymous with Loureira and Albariño in Spain’s Rías Baixas) are the stars. Alvarinho is distinctly tart and mineral in character with peach and citrus aromas and flavors, whereas Loureiro offers less acidity and more richness on the palate. Wines can be produced as single varietal wines or several grapes may be blended together. Compared to Rias Baixas wines, Alvarinho-led Vinho Verde is more petillant, mineral and tart.

Regardless of the varieties used, white (red and rosé versions also exist) Vinho Verde is generally low in alcohol, high in acidity with fresh citrus character. Also grown in the Vinho Verde area, as well as in Lisboa, Arinto is known for high acidity, with moderate alcohol and has to potential to age, especially if aged in oak.

With a wealth of wines from which to choose, Portuguese wines might be the perfect thing to help you break your Chardonnay habit. Because, not only is life too short to drink bad wine; it’s too short to get stuck in a rut.

Aveleda Alvarinho 2011, Vinho Verde, Portugal, $11.00
This is always one of my favorites when tasting a range of Vinho Verdes. While a bit pricier than some others, it delivers with floral, nectarine and citrus aromas and flavors. With its high acidity, dry palate and light body, this is a perfect aperitif wine.

Quinta da Romeira Arinto 2010, Bucelas, Portugal, $11.00
This wine hails from the Bucelas denomination, located close to Lisbon. It has notes of citrus, and yeast on the nose. Another relatively light-bodied wine, the palate has high acidity, along with green apples, grassiness and minerality.

Casa Ermelinda de Freitas Dona Ermelinda Reserva 2010, Palmela, Portugal, $13.00
A blend of Castelao (70%), Touriga Nacional (10%), Trincadeira (10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), this wine spent 12 months in French oak barrels. It offers red berries, perfume, oak and plum on the nose. Its palate provides vibrant acidity, dusty tannins, as well as minerality and an herbal character.

Herdade de la Malhadinha Nova Aragonês da Peceguina 2009, Alentejo, Portugal, $21.00
Unlike Rioja, which relies on Tempranillo, but usually includes at least one blending partner, this wine is 100% Tempranillo (simply masquerading under its Portuguese pseudonym). Showing ripe and jammy black berries, oak, medium tannins and some minerality, this wine seems more new world than old world, but still has nice balance.

Quinta de Vesuvio Pombal de Vesúvio 2008, Douro, Portugal, $27.00
At 803 acres, Quinta de Vesuvio is one of the largest estates within the Douro Valley. This blend of Touriga Franca (55%), Touriga Nacional (35%) and Tinta Amarela (10%) was aged in barrel for 9 months in French oak. It displays black and bramble fruit aromas along with smoky notes, both of which are repeated on the full-bodied palate, and joined by vibrant acidity.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Memories of Mendocino (September 2012)

Posted on September 3, 2012 by Tracy

Nestled above the Sonoma County border, Mendocino County is a world unto its own. Much less developed than Napa or Sonoma, the county is home to sandy beaches, towering redwood forests, and other natural landscapes, but little else. The picturesque town of Mendocino itself sits along the Pacific Ocean, offering breath-taking views, weather permitting. On a clear day, you can watch waves crash on the rocks below; however, when the fog rolls in, you’re lucky if you can see the ocean at all.

Beyond swimming and hiking, beer and wine tasting figure prominently on tourists’ “to do” lists. Even though grapes are grown throughout the county, with a total of ten American Viticultural Areas (and two pending approval), it is the Anderson Valley that is the most densely populated – with wineries, not people. Arriving from the north, visitors are greeted by the Navarro town limit sign, which announces a whopping population of 67; this is not the place to annoy your neighbor. To the south, the “much bigger” Boonville is home to 700 residents. But, what the area lacks in people, it more than makes up for in hospitality and a stay at the Boonville Hotel is strongly recommended.

Within the valley, the elevation, coupled with the coastal maritime influence, creates ideal conditions for cool climate grape varieties including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Riesling. Although Tony Husch is credited with planting the valley’s first Pinot Noir vines in 1971, the Alsatian varieties got their start in 1974, thanks to Ted Bennett and Deborah Cahn of Navarro Vineyards. And, while aromatic whites do well, Pinot Noir is especially prized, with many producers coming from outside the valley to source fruit, such as Copain, Fulcrum and Littorai. Aside from producing highly regarded still wines, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay also find themselves used in the production of Traditional Method sparkling wines. In this regard, Scharffenberger Cellars was founded by John Scharffenberger in 1981, while Roederer Estate, affiliated with Champagne house Louis Roederer, was established in 1982.

Today, the Anderson Valley remains quite small with a scant 2,244 acres planted on 85 properties and a median vineyard size of 12 acres. To put that in perspective, the Napa Valley, which accounts for only 4% of California’s total wine production, has over 45,000 acres of vineyards. Yet, despite the Anderson Valley’s diminutive size, it has developed a big reputation for producing quality wines.

Roederer Estate L’Ermitage 2003, Anderson Valley, CA, $44.00
The top sparker of the estate, also known as a tête de cuvée, L’Ermitage made its debut in 1989 and is only made in the best years. This wine is a blend of 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir and spent five years on the lees. It showed floral, yeast and citrus notes on both the nose and palate, culminating in a very long length. 8,332 cases produced

Navarro Vineyards Pinot Gris 2010, Anderson Valley, CA, $19.00
With a strong emphasis on sustainable farming, the family farm supports a flock of Babydoll sheep, which graze between the vines to keep
down the weed, but are too short to reach the grapes. The wine shows floral, almond and tangerine notes on the nose, all of which persisted on the lush palate. 1,500 cases produced

Handley Cellars Pinot Noir 2009, Anderson Valley, CA, $32.00
Owned by Milla Handley, Handley Cellars celebrates its 30^th vintage this year, and while Milla is still the primary winemaker, co-winemaker, Kristen Barnhisel, joined the staff in 2004. This Pinot Noir was redolent of fresh berries and cherries, with earth, slight spice and dried herbs joining on the palate. 1,505 cases produced

Phillips Hill Estates Pinot Noir Wiley Vineyard 2009, Anderson Valley, CA, $38.00
Phillips Hill Estates was founded by Toby Hill in 2002 when the professionally-trained artist shifted his attention away from the label and into the bottle (although he does design his own labels). Crafting several different vineyard designate Pinot Noirs, the Wiley Vineyard was our favorite with its lighter body, yet still intense cherry aromas and flavors. 380 cases produced

Lula Cellars Zinfandel 2009, Mendocino, CA, $28.00
This relatively new direct to consumer brand – the first wines were launched with the 2008 vintage – is the brainchild of winemaker and owner, Jeff Hansen. With grapes sourced from just south of Ukiah, this wine displayed blueberry, cocoa and raspberry aromas with rich and ripe fruit on the dry palate. 500 cases produced

It's A Winederful Life

Living la vita del vino with Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

Category Archives: Grand Cru Grapevine

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Grand Cru Grapevine: ‘Tis the Season to Think Pink (April 2013)

Grand Cru Grapevine: Recanati Wines, In Search of a Few Good Grapes (March 2013)

Grand Cru Grapevine: Laisser Les Bons Temps Rouler, An Introduction to Brazilian Wines (February 2013)

Grand Cru Grapevine: Through Rose-colored Glasses (January 2013)

Through Rose-colored Glasses: Grand Cru Grapevine (Jan 2013)

Grand Cru Grapevine: California Wines with a French Pedigree (December 2012)

Grand Cru Grapevine: France’s Southwest ~ The United Nations in a Glass (November 2012)

Grand Cru Grapevine: Portuguese Wines ~ A Fun Lesson in Diversity Awareness (October 2012)

Grand Cru Grapevine: Memories of Mendocino (September 2012)