Despite the five pounds I’ve gained in the last week, I feel much lighter these days. After a very stressful six-month period of preparing for the Diploma Unit 3 exam, I am thrilled to be able to say it is over. Of course, that doesn’t mean that I have successfully passed the exam. I won’t know that for about 3-4 months as the exam is shipped to London for grading, with all of the exams from all over the world.

The day itself was exhausting. The exam began at 10:00 AM with the first tasting paper. This consisted of two flights of three wines each, one of which we were asked to identify the common region and the other to identify the common grape. An hour later, we paused for a bathroom break before launching into the second tasting paper, which was similar to the first. Here, the challenge was to identify quality levels within three Pinot Noirs and then taste through a completely blind flight. While I am not confident that I correctly identified the flights, I did feel that I had earned enough points to pass the exam. We shall see.

After a brief lunch break, the clock started ticking for our three hour theory paper. This included a compulsory question for which we were presented with two wine labels (a German Eiswein and a Tokaji Azsu) and asked to describe their associated wines by climate, viticulture, vinification and maturation. We were then to choose another four questions from the remaining six. I chose questions regarding California, Syrah, various grape varieties and now can’t seem to recall the final selection. In any case, I was able to complete the five essays within the time allotted, at the conclusion of which I was mentally and physically tired (after typing all of the time you forget that writing for so long can cramp your arm).

With the exam submitted and behind us (at least for now), the members of my tasting group and a few other classmates headed out in search of….wine. Yes, after writing about wine for five hours, I could still enjoy a glass or two, although in celebration I switched to sparkling rather than still. In fact, after having a drink at a nearby bar, we upped the ante and ordered a very nice Champagne at Cru. I had to dash to dance class, so I missed dinner, but I was truly so much lighter as I headed out into the cool, damp evening with the weight of the exam having been lifted from my shoulders.

My studying continues to keep me very busy as I frantically try to learn everything about every wine region in the world. Well, not quite, but with less than six weeks to go before the big exam, I am getting into high gear.

As part of the WSET Diploma program, we are provided with sample questions, some of which are to be completed under test-like conditions (closed book) and others for which the questions may be reviewed in advance and then answered. These answers are then submitted to anonymous markers in London who read through them and provide feedback and advice. While several of the open book questions have already been submitted, this is the first for which I received feedback.

Clearly, I am in need of additional studying and, more importantly, taking the time to better understand the question and what it is truly asking. 

Open Book Questions – WSET Unit 3

Question 1

France

is renowned for the variety of its terroir. Select THREE regions from the list below. Explain how terroir is believed to determine the style of TWO different wines from each of your chosen regions.

a)

Alsace

b)

Bordeaux

c)

Burgundy

d)

Loire

The concept of terroir embodies a broad range of factors that ultimately come together to produce a particular wine. These elements include climate, particularly as it relates to temperature, rainfall, topography and altitude, as well as soil type(s), grape varieties used, viticultural practices and annual weather conditions. When these individual factors come together, along with vinification methods proscribed for a given region, they influence the style of the wine produced. This is especially true for the French regions of

Bordeaux

,

Burgundy

and

Alsace

, where there are several different styles of wine produced within each region. GOOD DEFINITION OF TERROIR

In

Bordeaux

, the climate is maritime with three bodies of water influencing the temperature and humidity of the area. The humidity plays a very special role in producing the vaunted sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac. These communes within the

Bordeaux

region can depend upon the development of noble rot more reliably than other areas within the region. Here, the unique conditions of moisture from the river (ALSO COOL WATER OF CIRON MEETING THE WARMER GARONNE AND THE CIRON VALLEY THAT ALLOWS MIST TO ROLL INLAND) , produce a morning mist, which is off-set by the warm sunshine during the afternoon. This promotes the development of botrytis rather than grey rot, which can be a problem in other parts of

Bordeaux

. This noble rot shrivels and concentrates the grapes as well as chemically changing the chemical structure of the constituents, permitting the winemaker to create long-lived, sweet wines of great intensity and complexity. (GOOD EXPLANATION OF AFFECT OF NOBLE ROT) Elsewhere in Bordeaux, the variation in annual weather conditions, coupled with uncertainly as to how the grapes will fare in any given year, have given rise to the creation of blended wines, as opposed to single varietal wines. While Cabernet Sauvignon is prized for its high tannins and rich flavors, it may not always ripen sufficiently. (WHAT TERROIR SUITS CABERNET SAUVIGNON BEST AND WHAT TERROIR SUITS MERLOT BEST?) Accordingly, the Bordelaise also plant Merlot, which ripens earlier and rounds out the mid-palate of the wine, providing a level of insurance against bad weather, especially that of rain during the harvest.  The wines are also blended with varying amounts of Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, further adding to the complexity of the finished wine. Additionally, the left bank areas are more temperate than the areas on the right bank, which is why the right bank is more heavily planted with Merlot, (ALSO THE CLAY/LIMESTONE SOILS OF THE RIGHT BANK ARE DAMPER, AND THEREFORE COOLER, THAN THE GRAVELS OF THE LEFT BANK. ON THOSE COOL SOILS CABERNET SAUVIGNON WOULD NOT RIPEN IN MOST YEARS) while Cabernet Sauvignon is primarily planted on the left bank. Accordingly, the left bank wines, particularly those from the classified estates, are high in Cabernet Sauvignon (~60-70%) and have tight tannic structures requiring years of ageing before they will be at their peak drinking.

16/33 VERY GOOD ACCOUNT OF TERROIR EFFECTS IN SAUTERNES. FOR YOUR SECOND WINE YOU SHOULD CHOOSE A SPECIFIC AC PRODUCT (EG POMEROL)

In

Burgundy

, the cooler, continental climate provides a good environment for Pinot Noir, with sufficient sunshine to ripen the grapes without over-exposure to heat.(GOOD POINT) In addition, the soils influence the style of wine with limestone, clay and marl soils providing good drainage. The limestone is particularly suited to Chardonnay, leaving the areas of clay and marl to be planted with the Pinot Noir. (ANOTHER GOOD POINT) The soils are so specific that each vineyard has been classified by quality, which further influences the style of wine. Further north in the region, within the district of Chablis, the Kimmeridgean soils serve an important role. Their high limestone content provides good drainage and support for the root system, while reflecting heat onto the grapes to aid in ripening. As a basic medium, it also helps the grapes to retain very high acidity and imparts a mineral/gun flint note to the wines. In addition, the northerly location prevents excessive ripeness. Accordingly, the Chablis wines are austere with sharp acidity, green apple and citrus notes, along with minerality. (EXCELLENT – THIS IS WHAT THE QUESTION REQUIRES – AN EXPLANATION OF HOW THE VARIOUS FEATURES OF TERROIR AFFECT THE STYLE/QUALITY OF THE WINE) Conversely, while the wines of the Maconnais district are also made from Chardonnay, their style is dramatically different than those of Chablis.  The district is much further south than Chablis and thus, the weather is warmer, allowing the grapes to achieve higher levels of ripeness. The soils are also different. As a result, these wines are fuller-bodied with tropical fruit notes and a lack of the gunflint character that is so characteristic of Chablis.

26/33 VERY GOOD TRY TO BE MORE EXPLICIT ABOUT YOUR

CHOSEN

WINES – IN THIS CASE CHABLIS AND MACON BLANC

In

Alsace

, the

Vosges

Mountains

provide an important barrier from the rain and wind, making the area among the driest in

France

, second only to

Languedoc

. With south-east facing vineyards located on the steep slopes to catch the most sun, the grapes ripen easily and produce excellent expressions of varietal wines. The best wines are those where the mountains are highest, near

Colmar

, providing the most wind and rain protection as well as additional heat, which ripens the grapes even further. Accordingly, the wines from

Alsace

are primarily varietals as opposed to blends and are produced with inert vessels and without malo-lactic fermentation to preserve the fresh, fruit flavors. These wines are generally dry and relatively full-bodied. The sunny and dry nature of the climate also conspire to permit the Alsatians to produce Vendange Tardive (late harvest) and Selection de Grains Noble (noble rot) wines as they can leave the grapes on the vine well beyond the usual harvest without fear of rain or rot ruining the crop (YOU COULD COVER THOSE FEATURES OF TERROIR THAT ENABLE NOBLE ROT TO DEVELOP IN SOME YEARS). These grapes can then develop high levels of sugar, producing sweet wines with high alcohol levels.

16/33 AN EXCELLENT LEVEL OF GENERAL INFORMATION BUT YOU WERE ASKED TO SELECT TWO SPECIFIC WINES. IF YOU HAD USED YOUR KNOWLEDGE TO DESCRIBE HOW TERROIR AFFECTS (SAY)

ALSACE

RIESLING AND GEWURZTRAMINER VENDANGE TARDIVE YOUR MARK WOULD HAVE BEEN CLOSER TO 22/33)

TOTAL – 58% VERY DETAILED KNOWLEDGE BUT YOU NEED TO PRACTICE THE TECHNIQUE OF APPLYING THAT KNOWLEDGE TO THE QUESTION. NOTE THE DIFFERENCE IN YOUR SECTION ON

BURGUNDY

WHERE YOU CHOSE SPECIFIC WINES AND EXPLAINED HOW TERROIR MADE THEM THE WAY THEY WERE WITH THE OTHER SECTIONS WHERE YOU DESCRIBED TERROIR IN GENERAL BUT DID NOT LINK THAT TO SPECIFIC WINES. IF YOU HAD USED THE KNOWLEDGE YOU HAVE TO ADDRESS THE QUESTION AS SET (AS YOU DID IN THE

BURGUNDY

SECTION) YOUR MARK WOULD HAVE BEEN CLOSER TO 70%.

In his article this week (To Study Wine, Buy and Drink), Eric Asimov suggested to his readers that one of the best ways to learn about wine is simply to have a good wine shop put together a mixed case for you to try at home and take notes as you do. He subscribes to this theory so heartily, that he is conducting the same exercise himself.

As a wine educator (and therefore admittedly somewhat biased), I’m not sure that I agree with him. While I do think that his tasting program is a good idea, I’m not sure that wine novices will get as much out of the experience as he suggests. On the other hand, I do agree that newcomers to wine do not need to learn all of the nitty-gritty details right away.

Eric further notes the need for folks to understand the type of wine they prefer. Again, I agree. One of the important elements we stress in all of our classes is that everyone’s palate is different and, we hope, allow them to identify their preferences through guided tastings. We also give them language to assist them in their communication with shop salespeople about what those preferences are.

Additionally, in Eric’s exercise, each bottle is drunk on its own, but even as a wine professional, I find that it is more instructional for me to taste in comparison to other wines. Accordingly, our classes include a minimum of five wines, permitting students to compare and contrast the wines. This is particularly evident in our From Vine to Wine class, which features five different wines that each highlight a concept presented in class, but also represent a wide range of wine styles.

For those who still prefer to stay at home and self-study, I would suggest Max Allen’s book, Sniff, Swirl, Slurp. This book provides the reader with tasting exercises that help to attune the drinker to the various nuances in wine. For example, in the first exercise, the reader is instructed to purchase four or five white varietal wines to provide instruction on aromatic vs. non-aromatic varieties.

However you choose to learn about wine, it is a fun endeavor and will add to your enjoyment of this wonderful beverage.

When I tell people that I am studying for a big wine exam, they frequently imagine it to be a fun and light-hearted endeavor. They think of me studying by drinking bottle after bottle of wine and imply that they should be so lucky to have to study for such an exam.

While I do enjoy the challenge of preparing for the Diploma’s Unit 3 exam, I am a bit overwhelmed by the sheer quantity and depth of the material — essentially any wine region in the world, exempting only sparkling and fortified wines as those are separate units themselves.

I began classes in mid-January and have been meeting weekly with a study group as well, giving over both Monday and Tuesday evenings to this venture. I am studying on weekends, writing up summaries to share with the group and trying to retain at least some of this information. I know that I have a lot more studying to do and really need to shift gears into a more focused approach, with the exam now only ~ 2 months away.

As we prepare for the exam, we were sent a mock question to complete under test conditions and submit for feedback. To see how I fared as well as better understand my stress, you can read my answers and their remarks below. For now, it’s back to the books for me!

Question 1

Write a paragraph on each one of the following six topics with reference to the light wine studied up to March 6th.

a). Cru Classification system in the Côte d’Or

b). Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

c). Grenache/Garnacha

d). Négociants

e) Riesling

f). Pouilly Fuissé

a) Cru Classification system in the Cote d’Or  13

Within the Burgundy region of France , there is a hierarchical rating system of the vineyards. The Cote d’Or, which is made up of the two districts, Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune, is home to some of the best wines in the world. The high quality of these wines is attributed in large part to the origin of the grapes in terms of the vineyard from which they came. The highest rating a vineyard can receive is Grand Cru. These are the vineyards with the best soils and are rated with respect to their potential for red (Pinot Noir) and or white (Chardonnay) wines. The best Chardonnay sites are made up of limestone, while the best Pinot Noir sites are situated on clay and marl. The Cote de Nuits is primarily known for its reds while the Cote de Beaune is known for its worldclass whites. The best vineyards are generally about halfway up the slopes, receiving the most sun exposure for ripening the grapes. The names of these sites/vineyards are so revered that they appear on the label above the commune in which they are located. Some of the sites have numerous owners, so the quality of the wine is also dependent upon the producer. However, these are the sites with the potential to create the greatest wines. Lesser vineyards, but still of high quality, are those rated as Premier Cru. Here, the soils and aspect are of a lower quality than Grand Cru, but are still considered to have favorable attributes for producing quality wines. The vineyard name will appear below the commune name on these labels. Beneath the vineyard designations are the village level wines. These are wines produced from a specific commune within the district such as Gevry-Chambertin, Marsannay and Fixin in the Cote de Nuits. These wines will come from lesser vineyard sites and may include grapes from a number of different vineyards as opposed to the single vineyard designations of the Premier Cru and Grand Cru. Consequently, they can be produced in larger volume. Even less specific, wines are also designated by the district itself with AC Haute Cote de Nuit and AC Haute Cote de Beaune, the latter being for reds only. The classification of these wines is reflected in their prices with Grand Cru wines in the smallest quantity, high demand and very high prices. The Premier Crus are somewhat less expensive, but still cost a lot of money, while the village wines can provide good value. A good level of detail and understanding – well done!  Additional marks could have been gained for stating that it is the vineyard  not the producer or village that is classified (ref to Bordeaux/Beaujolais) and the quantity produced.

b) Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 9

The Saint-Emilion commune within the Bordeaux region of France has a classification system for its wines, which was first developed in 1955. The classification is broken into Grand Cru, which is further divided into (Premier) Grand Cru Classe A and (Premier) Grand Cru Classe B. The Saint-Emilion classification also includes a Premier Cru level beneath the Grand Cru status (lower classification is Grand Cru; Premier Grand Cru is above that). The classification system is evaluated every 10 years, with chateaux submitting an extensive application and samples of its wines from the previous 7 vintages for review. The most recent review was in 2006, with some of the chateaux receiving promotions, while others were demoted. In the Grand Cru Classe A classification, there are two chateaux – Ausone and Angelus. Unlike the classification system in Burgundy, this rating attaches itself to the chateaux rather than the vineyard. Thus, the chateaux owner can contract or expand their vineyard holdings without jeopardizing their rating, assuming that the quality of their wine stays the same. The re-evaluation process has been the subject of much controversy and there is talk of revising the make-up of the review panel to be more fair. Also of interest, the classification system in Saint-Emilion, unlike the classification system used in the Medoc, is build into the AC system. Unclassified chateaux can submit their individual wines to a review panel on an annual basis for the potential to be designated Grand Cru for the given year.  Well understood, but you could have gained additional marks for discussing the style and market positioning of wine, usually merlot dominated, including a brief tasting notes, high quality, high price, premium / prestige sector.

c) Grenache/Garnacha 12

Grenache is a red grape variety native to France, particularly grown in Southern France. Its synonym in Spain is Garnacha. Grenache generally makes a high alcohol, low color, low tannin wine. Accordingly, the grape is most frequently used in blends. It is one of the permitted grapes in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and is also used in Cotes du Rhone wines in the Rhone Valley. In Provence, it is used in red blends as well as being vinified as a rose wine. With Southern France’s proximity to Spain and the relationship between France and Spain during the phylloxera epidemic, many French varieties were transported into Spain. This is primarily notable in Rioja and Navarra, where Garnacha, among other French grapes, is widely planted. Here, Garnarcha is blended with Tempranillo, to provide body and alcohol to Tempranillo’s fruit, color and tannins. Garnacha roses are also made.  Overall a good answer, however you could also have included comments on the grapes preferred climate, that it oxidizes, has spicy and strawberry characters, also other regions and grapes blended with to include particular regions, wines and producers.

d). Négociants 12

Negociants are wine brokers who buy grapes, must and/or wine from growers and co-operatives to possibly make and ultimately sell wine. They play a big role in both Bordeaux and in Burgundy. In Bordeaux, the negociants do not generally get involved in the winemaking process, but they do buy the wines from the chateaux to sell to the trade both locally and internationally. They influence the price of these wines through the sale of futures and are very competitive with one another over the prestige of high prices. In Burgundy, the larger negociants are often involved in producing wine themselves. With the very small plots of land in individual ownership, it is generally not cost effective for many growers to producer their own wines. Consequently, by buying grapes, must or wines from several different growers, the negociants in Burgundy can create a sufficient quantity of wine to sell on the market profitably. Some of the negociants’ power has been reduced with the rise of estate-bottled wines, but as the better negociants also own land, some of them produce their own estate-bottled wines as well. Negociants exist in other wine regions eg Loire, both in France and in other countries, and play varying roles, depending upon the local trade structure.  A good response.  Additional marks could have been achieved by discussing negociants roles in developing brands, BOBs etc.  role (and names) of big companies, negociants buying estates and estates expanding into the negotiating business.

e) Riesling 12

Riesling is a white grape variety. It is highly prized in Alsace and in Germany, producing excellent quality wines that are the hallmarks of this variety. It is a highly aromatic grape with lychee/tropical fruit aromas(this is normally Gewurtztraminer not Riesling), along with notes of minerality and petrol. The petrol notes become more pronounced with age. Better Rieslings have significant aging potential. Rieslings can be made in both dry and sweet styles, often found in Spatlese and higher must weight wines in Germany. In both Germany and Alsace, Rieslings are produced as single varietal wines. In Alsace, Riesling is among the four permitted grapes for Grand Cru wines. In Germany, the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer is particularly noted for its Rieslings.  Generally well answered, however additional marks could have been gained for describing the preferred climate, the quality levels in each region, specific producers and vineyard area statistics.

f). Pouilly Fuissé 10

Pouilly-Fuisse is a commune within the district of Maconais in the Bugundy region. The wines are white wines made from Chardonnay. The climate is warmer in the Maconais, as compared to the more northerly districts of Chablis, Cote de Nuits, Cote de Beaune and Chalonnaise. Accordingly, the wines are fuller, with riper, more tropical fruit. The soils are limestone. These wines are highly-regarded, but not as highly as the Premier and Grand Cru wines from Chablis and the Cote d’Or. Thus, they are less expensive. Additional marks could have been gained for discussing suntrap slopes, production, including lees / oak? Producers and particular wines, production statistics and markets eg. Demand in the US.

As we discussed last night in class, the Burgundy wine region, as another of France’s great wine regions, is often compared to Bordeaux. In fact, our instructor Mary Ewing-Mulligan, CWE, MW, recalled an instance when she looked up the word bordeaux (in terms of its use as a color) in the dictionary and found "burgundy" as its definition. However, they are quite different.

Whereas the Bordeaux wines are blends of several grape varieties, the wines of Burgundy are mono-varietal. There are four major grapes grown in this region — Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Aligote. The latter two are of lesser importance, while the first two are responsible for some of the world’s greatest wines.

Why are they so great? Viticulture began in Burgundy centuries ago, giving the region plenty of time to truly understand which grapes thrive best with the given set of conditions. Specifically, up north in Chablis, the soils are particularly rich in marine fossils. The best vineyards are planted here on this soil known as Kimmeridgian. Lesser rated vineyards, but also well regarded, are planted on Portlandian clay in an area known as Petit Chablis.

Further south, within the two districts that make up the Cote d’Or (Cote de Nuits & Cote de Beaune), the soils are primarily limestone mixed with clay and marl. Where limestone predominates (more frequently in the Cote de Beaune), Chardonnay is planted. Conversely, soils with more clay and marl (often in the Cote de Nuits) are planted with Pinot Noir. These vineyards were rated around the same time as Bordeaux’s classification, with delineations for Grand Cru (the best), Premier Cru and Village level wines.

The climate is continental, with spring and autumn frosts as potential hazards, along with summer hail. Some of this is overcome by planting midway down on east or south-east facing slopes, catching the most sun. Unlike Bordeaux, it is much drier, so rot doesn’t pose a problem.

Winemaking practices in the region vary with respect to the use of oak, both in length of time as well as how much oak is used. The better producers are judicious in their use of oak, not wanting it to overpower the lovely red fruit flavors of Pinot Noir, nor the apple and mineral notes of Chardonnay. Pinot Noir is barrel aged for 16-18 months, while the Chardonnay receives 6-9 months in oak.

Less prestigious are the districts of Cote Chalonnaise and Macon, which lie south of the Cote d’Or. Wines from Cote Chalonnaise are similar to those made in the Cote d’Or, but they generally have less ageing potential. The villages of Mercurey and Givry are most admired and will be expensive, but much less so than the Grand Crus and Premier Crus of their northern neighbors.

Macon wines primarily center around Chardonnay, with somewhat richer and riper flavors due to their more southernly location. The appellation of Pouilly-Fuisse is highly regarded.

As with many things, some producers are better than others, taking more care in the vineyard and in the cellar to craft their wines. Many producers are also negociants, buying grapes from many different vineyards and producing wines on the various levels. Among the most respected negociants are Louis Jadot and Joseph Drouhin. 

With Burgundy’s marginal climate, vintage variation also matters. The 2002 vintage is hailed as a particularly good one, while 2005 is garnering tremendous praise as one of the best vintages in history. Not surprisingly, you can expect to find rising prices on these wines.

Lest anyone think I am plagerizing as I begin to craft summaries on my study topics and post them to the blog, I wish to make my sources known.

My study materials will include a combination of texts, notably the Oxford Companion to Wine, Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia, the WSET’s text for Advanced Certificate and the WSET Unit 3 Study Guides. In addition, I will be consulting various websites, with particular emphasis on official sites such as Le Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux  (Bordeaux.com). Finally, I will be meeting with a study group, which will be sharing information with one another, further adding to my knowledge.