In his article this week (To Study Wine, Buy and Drink), Eric Asimov suggested to his readers that one of the best ways to learn about wine is simply to have a good wine shop put together a mixed case for you to try at home and take notes as you do. He subscribes to this theory so heartily, that he is conducting the same exercise himself.

As a wine educator (and therefore admittedly somewhat biased), I’m not sure that I agree with him. While I do think that his tasting program is a good idea, I’m not sure that wine novices will get as much out of the experience as he suggests. On the other hand, I do agree that newcomers to wine do not need to learn all of the nitty-gritty details right away.

Eric further notes the need for folks to understand the type of wine they prefer. Again, I agree. One of the important elements we stress in all of our classes is that everyone’s palate is different and, we hope, allow them to identify their preferences through guided tastings. We also give them language to assist them in their communication with shop salespeople about what those preferences are.

Additionally, in Eric’s exercise, each bottle is drunk on its own, but even as a wine professional, I find that it is more instructional for me to taste in comparison to other wines. Accordingly, our classes include a minimum of five wines, permitting students to compare and contrast the wines. This is particularly evident in our From Vine to Wine class, which features five different wines that each highlight a concept presented in class, but also represent a wide range of wine styles.

For those who still prefer to stay at home and self-study, I would suggest Max Allen’s book, Sniff, Swirl, Slurp. This book provides the reader with tasting exercises that help to attune the drinker to the various nuances in wine. For example, in the first exercise, the reader is instructed to purchase four or five white varietal wines to provide instruction on aromatic vs. non-aromatic varieties.

However you choose to learn about wine, it is a fun endeavor and will add to your enjoyment of this wonderful beverage.

When I tell people that I am studying for a big wine exam, they frequently imagine it to be a fun and light-hearted endeavor. They think of me studying by drinking bottle after bottle of wine and imply that they should be so lucky to have to study for such an exam.

While I do enjoy the challenge of preparing for the Diploma’s Unit 3 exam, I am a bit overwhelmed by the sheer quantity and depth of the material — essentially any wine region in the world, exempting only sparkling and fortified wines as those are separate units themselves.

I began classes in mid-January and have been meeting weekly with a study group as well, giving over both Monday and Tuesday evenings to this venture. I am studying on weekends, writing up summaries to share with the group and trying to retain at least some of this information. I know that I have a lot more studying to do and really need to shift gears into a more focused approach, with the exam now only ~ 2 months away.

As we prepare for the exam, we were sent a mock question to complete under test conditions and submit for feedback. To see how I fared as well as better understand my stress, you can read my answers and their remarks below. For now, it’s back to the books for me!

Question 1

Write a paragraph on each one of the following six topics with reference to the light wine studied up to March 6th.

a). Cru Classification system in the Côte d’Or

b). Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

c). Grenache/Garnacha

d). Négociants

e) Riesling

f). Pouilly Fuissé

a) Cru Classification system in the Cote d’Or  13

Within the Burgundy region of France , there is a hierarchical rating system of the vineyards. The Cote d’Or, which is made up of the two districts, Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune, is home to some of the best wines in the world. The high quality of these wines is attributed in large part to the origin of the grapes in terms of the vineyard from which they came. The highest rating a vineyard can receive is Grand Cru. These are the vineyards with the best soils and are rated with respect to their potential for red (Pinot Noir) and or white (Chardonnay) wines. The best Chardonnay sites are made up of limestone, while the best Pinot Noir sites are situated on clay and marl. The Cote de Nuits is primarily known for its reds while the Cote de Beaune is known for its worldclass whites. The best vineyards are generally about halfway up the slopes, receiving the most sun exposure for ripening the grapes. The names of these sites/vineyards are so revered that they appear on the label above the commune in which they are located. Some of the sites have numerous owners, so the quality of the wine is also dependent upon the producer. However, these are the sites with the potential to create the greatest wines. Lesser vineyards, but still of high quality, are those rated as Premier Cru. Here, the soils and aspect are of a lower quality than Grand Cru, but are still considered to have favorable attributes for producing quality wines. The vineyard name will appear below the commune name on these labels. Beneath the vineyard designations are the village level wines. These are wines produced from a specific commune within the district such as Gevry-Chambertin, Marsannay and Fixin in the Cote de Nuits. These wines will come from lesser vineyard sites and may include grapes from a number of different vineyards as opposed to the single vineyard designations of the Premier Cru and Grand Cru. Consequently, they can be produced in larger volume. Even less specific, wines are also designated by the district itself with AC Haute Cote de Nuit and AC Haute Cote de Beaune, the latter being for reds only. The classification of these wines is reflected in their prices with Grand Cru wines in the smallest quantity, high demand and very high prices. The Premier Crus are somewhat less expensive, but still cost a lot of money, while the village wines can provide good value. A good level of detail and understanding – well done!  Additional marks could have been gained for stating that it is the vineyard  not the producer or village that is classified (ref to Bordeaux/Beaujolais) and the quantity produced.

b) Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 9

The Saint-Emilion commune within the Bordeaux region of France has a classification system for its wines, which was first developed in 1955. The classification is broken into Grand Cru, which is further divided into (Premier) Grand Cru Classe A and (Premier) Grand Cru Classe B. The Saint-Emilion classification also includes a Premier Cru level beneath the Grand Cru status (lower classification is Grand Cru; Premier Grand Cru is above that). The classification system is evaluated every 10 years, with chateaux submitting an extensive application and samples of its wines from the previous 7 vintages for review. The most recent review was in 2006, with some of the chateaux receiving promotions, while others were demoted. In the Grand Cru Classe A classification, there are two chateaux – Ausone and Angelus. Unlike the classification system in Burgundy, this rating attaches itself to the chateaux rather than the vineyard. Thus, the chateaux owner can contract or expand their vineyard holdings without jeopardizing their rating, assuming that the quality of their wine stays the same. The re-evaluation process has been the subject of much controversy and there is talk of revising the make-up of the review panel to be more fair. Also of interest, the classification system in Saint-Emilion, unlike the classification system used in the Medoc, is build into the AC system. Unclassified chateaux can submit their individual wines to a review panel on an annual basis for the potential to be designated Grand Cru for the given year.  Well understood, but you could have gained additional marks for discussing the style and market positioning of wine, usually merlot dominated, including a brief tasting notes, high quality, high price, premium / prestige sector.

c) Grenache/Garnacha 12

Grenache is a red grape variety native to France, particularly grown in Southern France. Its synonym in Spain is Garnacha. Grenache generally makes a high alcohol, low color, low tannin wine. Accordingly, the grape is most frequently used in blends. It is one of the permitted grapes in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and is also used in Cotes du Rhone wines in the Rhone Valley. In Provence, it is used in red blends as well as being vinified as a rose wine. With Southern France’s proximity to Spain and the relationship between France and Spain during the phylloxera epidemic, many French varieties were transported into Spain. This is primarily notable in Rioja and Navarra, where Garnacha, among other French grapes, is widely planted. Here, Garnarcha is blended with Tempranillo, to provide body and alcohol to Tempranillo’s fruit, color and tannins. Garnacha roses are also made.  Overall a good answer, however you could also have included comments on the grapes preferred climate, that it oxidizes, has spicy and strawberry characters, also other regions and grapes blended with to include particular regions, wines and producers.

d). Négociants 12

Negociants are wine brokers who buy grapes, must and/or wine from growers and co-operatives to possibly make and ultimately sell wine. They play a big role in both Bordeaux and in Burgundy. In Bordeaux, the negociants do not generally get involved in the winemaking process, but they do buy the wines from the chateaux to sell to the trade both locally and internationally. They influence the price of these wines through the sale of futures and are very competitive with one another over the prestige of high prices. In Burgundy, the larger negociants are often involved in producing wine themselves. With the very small plots of land in individual ownership, it is generally not cost effective for many growers to producer their own wines. Consequently, by buying grapes, must or wines from several different growers, the negociants in Burgundy can create a sufficient quantity of wine to sell on the market profitably. Some of the negociants’ power has been reduced with the rise of estate-bottled wines, but as the better negociants also own land, some of them produce their own estate-bottled wines as well. Negociants exist in other wine regions eg Loire, both in France and in other countries, and play varying roles, depending upon the local trade structure.  A good response.  Additional marks could have been achieved by discussing negociants roles in developing brands, BOBs etc.  role (and names) of big companies, negociants buying estates and estates expanding into the negotiating business.

e) Riesling 12

Riesling is a white grape variety. It is highly prized in Alsace and in Germany, producing excellent quality wines that are the hallmarks of this variety. It is a highly aromatic grape with lychee/tropical fruit aromas(this is normally Gewurtztraminer not Riesling), along with notes of minerality and petrol. The petrol notes become more pronounced with age. Better Rieslings have significant aging potential. Rieslings can be made in both dry and sweet styles, often found in Spatlese and higher must weight wines in Germany. In both Germany and Alsace, Rieslings are produced as single varietal wines. In Alsace, Riesling is among the four permitted grapes for Grand Cru wines. In Germany, the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer is particularly noted for its Rieslings.  Generally well answered, however additional marks could have been gained for describing the preferred climate, the quality levels in each region, specific producers and vineyard area statistics.

f). Pouilly Fuissé 10

Pouilly-Fuisse is a commune within the district of Maconais in the Bugundy region. The wines are white wines made from Chardonnay. The climate is warmer in the Maconais, as compared to the more northerly districts of Chablis, Cote de Nuits, Cote de Beaune and Chalonnaise. Accordingly, the wines are fuller, with riper, more tropical fruit. The soils are limestone. These wines are highly-regarded, but not as highly as the Premier and Grand Cru wines from Chablis and the Cote d’Or. Thus, they are less expensive. Additional marks could have been gained for discussing suntrap slopes, production, including lees / oak? Producers and particular wines, production statistics and markets eg. Demand in the US.

As we discussed last night in class, the Burgundy wine region, as another of France’s great wine regions, is often compared to Bordeaux. In fact, our instructor Mary Ewing-Mulligan, CWE, MW, recalled an instance when she looked up the word bordeaux (in terms of its use as a color) in the dictionary and found "burgundy" as its definition. However, they are quite different.

Whereas the Bordeaux wines are blends of several grape varieties, the wines of Burgundy are mono-varietal. There are four major grapes grown in this region — Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Aligote. The latter two are of lesser importance, while the first two are responsible for some of the world’s greatest wines.

Why are they so great? Viticulture began in Burgundy centuries ago, giving the region plenty of time to truly understand which grapes thrive best with the given set of conditions. Specifically, up north in Chablis, the soils are particularly rich in marine fossils. The best vineyards are planted here on this soil known as Kimmeridgian. Lesser rated vineyards, but also well regarded, are planted on Portlandian clay in an area known as Petit Chablis.

Further south, within the two districts that make up the Cote d’Or (Cote de Nuits & Cote de Beaune), the soils are primarily limestone mixed with clay and marl. Where limestone predominates (more frequently in the Cote de Beaune), Chardonnay is planted. Conversely, soils with more clay and marl (often in the Cote de Nuits) are planted with Pinot Noir. These vineyards were rated around the same time as Bordeaux’s classification, with delineations for Grand Cru (the best), Premier Cru and Village level wines.

The climate is continental, with spring and autumn frosts as potential hazards, along with summer hail. Some of this is overcome by planting midway down on east or south-east facing slopes, catching the most sun. Unlike Bordeaux, it is much drier, so rot doesn’t pose a problem.

Winemaking practices in the region vary with respect to the use of oak, both in length of time as well as how much oak is used. The better producers are judicious in their use of oak, not wanting it to overpower the lovely red fruit flavors of Pinot Noir, nor the apple and mineral notes of Chardonnay. Pinot Noir is barrel aged for 16-18 months, while the Chardonnay receives 6-9 months in oak.

Less prestigious are the districts of Cote Chalonnaise and Macon, which lie south of the Cote d’Or. Wines from Cote Chalonnaise are similar to those made in the Cote d’Or, but they generally have less ageing potential. The villages of Mercurey and Givry are most admired and will be expensive, but much less so than the Grand Crus and Premier Crus of their northern neighbors.

Macon wines primarily center around Chardonnay, with somewhat richer and riper flavors due to their more southernly location. The appellation of Pouilly-Fuisse is highly regarded.

As with many things, some producers are better than others, taking more care in the vineyard and in the cellar to craft their wines. Many producers are also negociants, buying grapes from many different vineyards and producing wines on the various levels. Among the most respected negociants are Louis Jadot and Joseph Drouhin. 

With Burgundy’s marginal climate, vintage variation also matters. The 2002 vintage is hailed as a particularly good one, while 2005 is garnering tremendous praise as one of the best vintages in history. Not surprisingly, you can expect to find rising prices on these wines.

Lest anyone think I am plagerizing as I begin to craft summaries on my study topics and post them to the blog, I wish to make my sources known.

My study materials will include a combination of texts, notably the Oxford Companion to Wine, Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia, the WSET’s text for Advanced Certificate and the WSET Unit 3 Study Guides. In addition, I will be consulting various websites, with particular emphasis on official sites such as Le Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux  (Bordeaux.com). Finally, I will be meeting with a study group, which will be sharing information with one another, further adding to my knowledge.

A recent blog post from Eric Asimov discussed the world of wine and wine education. Asimov was making the point that people seem to be apologetic for their lack of wine knowledge in ways that they are not apologetic about their lack of other knowledge, i.e. car mechanics, medicine, etc. He felt that the elitism and mystery surrounding wine had made people feel inadequate and deficient if they were ignorant regarding wine, which he regarded as a problem. Instead, he wanted people to simply enjoy wine and to rely on a good local wine merchant for assistance. He is not wrong. Certainly, knowing about wine is nice, but not necessary, for its enjoyment.

However, for those of us in the trade, especially educators, it is essential that we are extremely knowledgeable and up-to-date on the world of wine. To that end, I undertook the WSET’s Diploma of Wine & Spirits in January 2006. Now, a year later, I am ensconced in Unit 3 — Light Wines of the World. Essentially, ALL wines (other than sparkling and fortified). This is a massive undertaking as I grapple with the sheer volume of material, along with the depth of understanding the examiners expect.

Having just received my scores for the exams (Sparkling Wines of the World and Spirits of the World) taken in November, I know I have a long road ahead of me, if I wish to succeed. I achieved Pass with Merit on both exams, which is less than I had hoped for, having received Pass with Distinction on all previous WSET examinations.

Moreover, I have been remiss at posting to this blog for some time, given my studies, the launch of our business and life in general.

Accordingly, I plan to write summaries of my study materials and post them to the blog, essentially killing two birds with the same stone. Thus, while in-depth wine knowledge is not essential to the average wine consumer, those of you seeking to learn more will, I hope, find these postings helpful. I hope, I too, will find them helpful come June 12 when I find myself sitting in the full-day exam.