Author Archives: Tracy

A Wine Soaked Week

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003The last week of April was filled with wonderful wine. I kicked off the week at the Wine Media Guild’s monthly luncheon. This Tale of Two Pichons featured a matched, vertical tasting of Chateau Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville (aka Pichon-Baron) and Chateau Pichon Lonagueville Comtesse de Lalande (aka Pichon-Lalande). These highly acclaimed Bordeaux wines were accompanied by a sumptuous meal at Felidia.

Christian Seely, Manager of all AXA-Millseimes properties (which includes Pichon-Baron) was joined by Gildas d’Ollone, Managing Director of Pichon-Lalande, in enlightening us about these two properties and their resulting wines. Much discussion about the cepages (blend) and weather patterns of each year ensued, with both men noting the importance of ripeness and yields.

The Longueville property was initially one large parcel, but upon the marriage of the Baron’s daughter, it was split into two separate properties as part of her dowery. In 1978, Giladas’ aunt purchased the Pichon-Lalande property, which she sold to Roederer in 2007. Pichon-Baron is presently owned by AXA-Millisime.

As usual, the first part of the event featured a walk-around tasting. Given the day’s theme, the luncheon was particularly crowded and included some luminary members and guests that rarely attend. Consequently, I chose not to take detailed notes during the tasting but rather, to simply enjoy the wines. We began with the 2000 vintage, which was lauded as one of the top vintages in Bordeaux, until 2005 arrived. Overall, I found the 2000’s to be quite amazing and felt that the 2005’s needed additional time to mature. I was also surprised that the 2003’s (the hot vintage) were as good as they were. Generally, it was interesting to taste each wine from the same vintage and see how the two differed. Similarly, it was great to see how the same wine changed from vintage to vintage. In some vintages, I preferred Pichon-Baron, while the Pichon-Lalande was my favorite in others. During the actual lunch, the 1985, 1989 and 1975 (the latter in double magnum) Pichon-Lalandes were served as were the 1989 and 1990 Pichon-Barons. The 1975 Pichon-Lalande was incredibly bright and lively for its age.

After lunch, many of the attendees headed over to the Four Seasons restaurant to attend a preview tasting of the recently declared 2007 vintage for Port. Event participants included properties from the Fladgate Partnership, Symington Family Estates and Quinta do Noval. I briefly tasted through a few of the 2007s, noticing their richness, coupled with chocolate and berries. A selection of older Ports was also available to taste, of which I particularly liked the very concentrated Smith Woodhouse 1977, the mellowness of the Graham 1970 and the luscious bramble fruit of the Dow 1980.

The following evening found me at Grape & Grain wine bar in the East Village, meeting up with a friend from out of town. The by-the-glass list was surprisingly heavy on Spanish wines, but also had a selection of others. We weren’t very hungry, so we simply ordered a white bean dip accompanied by spicy pita chips. My initial glass of wine, a white blend of Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Chardonnay, seemed somewhat oxidized, but as many traditional white Spanish wines have this characteristic, I ignored it. However, when my husband arrived later on, he brought it to the server’s attention who expressed surprise, having not encountered it in that wine before. Consequently, he opened a second bottle, which had the same oxidized note and then a third, which didn’t, before pouring me a new glass of wine. The bar also carries a selection of beers in hommage to the “grain” in its name.

My next major interaction with wine didn’t occur until the end of the week, but it was quite major. Grand Cru Classes hosted the Saturday night dinner for TasteCamp East in its Tuscan-inspired tasting classroom. Participants had been asked to bring a bottle of wine, especially one from their home state/local wine region. Many attendees took this a step further and arrived with a full case. Consequently, with 30+ people in the room, there was a sea of wine. The diversity of wines present was quite astounding with fruit-based wines sharing the table with the likes of Duckhorn. All in all, it was an extremely fun evening and we enjoyed meeting and, in some instances, re-acquainting ourselves with, the bloggers.

We woke up Sunday morning with a fair amount of cleaning up to do.  All told, we ended up opening over 30 bottles of wine, with many unopened bottles taken home and a just few left behind. It truly had been a wine-soaked week.

A new organic wine hits the market – the Pinot Grigio to feel good about

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Harvest at CollaviniFriulian wine producer, Collavini, has introduced a new Pinot Grigio, produced from organic grapes. The family-owned and operated winery has been in existence since 1896 and is currently run by Manlio Collavinin, along with his sons Luigi and Giovanni. Wife, Anna, manages public relations for the company.

In addition to being an organic wine, several environmentally-friendly measures have been taken in connection with the wine. More specifically, the bottle itself is made of recycled glass and may be recycled yet again. Sealed with a natural cork, the closure is also recyclable. Related packaging such as the wine shipper and its partitions, was produced from recycled materials, most of which is fully recyclable as well.

Made entirely from Pinot Grigio, the (ICEA) certified organic grapes are grown in the Venezie region, with adherence to organic practices and eschewing man-made fertilizers and pesticides. The winemaking process is not certified organic, but care was taken to follow traditional winemaking practices with minimal handling of the fruit.

Collavini Pinot Grigio 2008
IGT Delle Venezie
$13.99 SRP
This wine has a clean nose of floral, lemon and slight stone aromas. On the palate, it is dry with lively acidity and a relatively light body. Flavors of lemon, stone and tangerine persist throughout the wine’s medium+ length. The high acidity permitted this wine to pair nicely with fried food, cutting through the grease and cleansing the palate between bites.

Four Seasons restaurant celebrates 50 years as a New York institution

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It was truly an affair to remember: a cocktail hour featuring free-flowing Dom Perignon 1999 and wonderful hor d’oeuvres, a diverse and unique cast of characters and a palpable, celebratory energy in the room. You knew this was going to be a magical event. 

On May 5, moguls, foodies and celebrities alike, gathered to celebrate the Four Seasons restaurant’s 50th year. This venerable restaurant first opened in 1959 and has been a New York landmark ever since. Designed by architects Philip Johnson and Mies van der Rohe in the height of the International Style, the restaurant was among the first to be truly designed for its purpose, long before Adam Tihany and David Rockwell were de rigor for opening a restaurant.

Fourteen years ago, Alex von Bidder and Julian Niccolini took the helm as managing partners of the restaurant and Tuesday night’s event centered squarely on their personalities — Julian’s larger than life; Alex’s nowhere to be seen.

Emceed by Bill O’Shaughnessy, over a dozen took the stage to roast the pair, Friar’s Club style, including: Michael Mondavi, Edgar Bronfman, Liz Smith, Gael Greene, Drew Nieporent, Sirio Maccioni, Jonathan Tisch, Martha Stewart, Cesare Casella, Daniel Boulud, Pete Peterson, Pamela Fiori, Bob Grimes and Peggy Siegal.

Michael Mondavi recounted a visit to the restaurant with his father, Robert, in 1968, noting that only a handful of California wines were listed among the creme de la creme of French and Italian wines. He credited the Four Seasons with being among the first New York restaurants to prominently feature California wines in the wake of the Judgement of Paris.

Beyond the celebrities, everyone seems to have their own fond memories of the Four Seasons. The gentleman seated to my right explained that, when he was in college, he and his friends couldn’t afford to bring their dates to the Four Seasons for dinner, but would end the night at its bar, which made quite an impact on the young ladies.

Having first dined at the Four Seasons with my father in the mid-1990’s, the Four Seasons quickly became my favorite New York restaurant, to which I return for their magnificent wine dinners and to celebrate special occasions.

If you have not had the pleasure of dining at the Four Seasons restaurant, I urge you to take advantage of their anniversary-inspired, prix fixe menu, which, at $59.00 for three courses, is a relative bargain. It’s a chance to create your own magical moments as the restaurant looks ahead to its next 50 years.

For more info: Four Seasons, 99 East 52nd Street, New York, NY; 212-754-9450

California wine is not just for dummies – book review

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I was delighted to have the opportunity to review the newly released California Wine for Dummies book by Ed McCarthy and Mary Ewing-Mulligan since the pair are so well respected as writers and educators.

However, I admit to a certain negative bias given that it was part of the “for Dummies” series. I had never read any of the “for Dummies” books previously distaining the assumption that a lack of knowledge on the subject made one a dummy. Moreover, I think it is somewhat insulting to address people in this manner. Accordingly, upon receiving the book, when I read the book in public (i.e. on the subway), I found myself wishing that it had been prominently marked as a “Review” copy.

Despite my predisposition toward the book, I was pleasantly surprised at its quality given the format and premise.

Ed and Mary have a great sense of humor and forthright approach, both of which are infused throughout the book. The book is really well designed with a series of icons that permits the reader to easily navigate each chapter in search of the desired information.

The book is great as a reference on California wines, but would also be useful as an adjunct to other travel resources, when planning a trip to a particular California wine region. It may also be of assistance with wine purchases with Ed and Mary’s lists of reliable wines for each grape variety and within various price bands.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Closure Disclosure (May 2009)

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We are recently back from a trip to Santa Barbara, which is an absolutely lovely place to travel. We were fortunate to visit numerous vineyards and wineries and tasted some fabulous wines.

If you’d like to taste some fabulous wines, while improving your wine knowledge, join us for one of our classes. Our public schedule kicks off this month, with classes held on Saturdays and Sundays. As always, we are available for both personal and corporate private events as well.

We hope you have been enjoying Tracy’s NY Wine Shopping Examiner column on Examiner.com. If you haven’t checked it out yet, be sure to catch up with all of her articles online. Again, suggestions and ideas for articles are always welcome!

You can also catch Tracy’s latest Words of Winedom column, at Big Blend magazine, and/or hear her on Big Blend’s Eat, Drink & Be Merry radio show on Monday, May 11, 2009 at 7:10 PM (EST).

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

CLOSURE DISCLOSURE: CORKED, CAPPED OR SCREWED?

As oxygen is wine’s Kryptonite, sealing a bottle of wine is important. Traditionally, cork, derived from the bark of cork trees, has been the method of choice for wine closures for centuries. However, recent failure rates for cork, reports of which range from 2-12%, are no longer deemed acceptable. The primary failure in question is that of cork taint, caused by a reaction of the Trichloranisole (TCA) bacteria with chlorine/chlorinated-compounds. This negative reaction begins on the surface of the cork and then spreads to the wine itself, rendering it undrinkable and smelling like my wet, moldy basement (or anyone’s wet, moldy basement for that matter). As alternatives, the wine industry has turned to screw caps and crown caps among other products. NB: Crown caps are used for sparkling wines, while screw caps are found on still wines. 

While many people historically associate screw caps with less expensive wines, their use in fine wines is becoming more prevalent. Notably, as of 2006, 90% of all wine made in New Zealand is bottled under a screw cap or crown cap. Australia lags behind, but is still ahead of most countries with its screw cap adoption. In the U.S., consumers have been somewhat slower to demand alternate closures than their Southern hemisphere counterparts, but some of the higher end producers are beginning to make the switch.

The technology has evolved dramatically, especially over the last two years, making these closure choices near perfect. They seem to overcome issues of cork taint, oxidation (spoilage by contact with O2) and reduction (off-flavors from a lack of O2). However, they are not without their critics, with some attributing health-risks with these closures (not well proven or documented). APCOR (the trade organization representing the cork industry) ran its own campaign to laud the advances made in cork technology to address its (former) failures. In fact, a new cork, DIAM, has been launched, which is virtually taint-free, but, quite expensive. Synthetic corks avoid issues with cork taint, but are thought to add a plastic aroma to the wine and can be extremely difficult to remove. Given the pros and cons of the various solutions, it is likely that this debate will continue throughout this decade.

In the meantime, it is clear that both traditional and alternate closures have their place in the market. The merits of one or the other aside, nothing can substitute for proper storage of your wine in order to preserve their quality. Expose your wine to light, heat and/or vibrations and you will be screwed, regardless of the closure on the bottle!

Tasting Notes

Frédéric Mallo, Pinot Gris “Special Delivery”, 2006, Alsace, France, $17.00 – CORK
From a fifth-generation, family-owned estate in Alsace, their Pinot Grigio remains in the tank for a longer period of time (up to one year before bottling) than several other of its wines, giving it a fuller body. It has notes of ripe citrus and pear fruit with clean minerality and long length.

Geyser Peak Chardonnay 2007, Alexander Valley, CA, $14.00 – SCREW CAP
Under the leadership of winemaker Mick Schroeter, Geyser Peak produces expressive wines. With aromas of butter, oak, vanilla, and apple, this wine is dry with medium acidity and flavors of apple, vanilla, (well-integrated) oak, and a slight hint of spice.

Wild Rock Vin Gris 2007, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, $7.00 – SCREW CAP
Deep salmon in color, this rosé has pronounced aromas of ripe strawberry, raspberry, floral and a slight candied note, which persist on the palate with great depth of flavor and fruit concentration. Made from a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah, it is medium bodied with long length.

Casa Santos Lima, Sousão, 2004, Estremadura, Portugal, $15.00 – CORK
Casa Santos Lima, located just north of Lisbon, is a relatively new winery, with its first wines produced in 1996. A porty nose of deep, dark berries gives way to a dry palate with good acidity, a full body, along with rich and ripe berry fruit and notes of chocolate/cocoa. 

Errazuriz, Merlot, 2006, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, $10.00 – SCREW CAP
While only some vineyards of the Errazuriz estate are certified organic, owner Eduardo Chadwick has been adopting these principles throughout his vineyards. With notes of plums, cherries and oak, the 2006 Merlot is blend of 85% Merlot, 11% Carmenere and 4% Sangiovese, with 50% of the wine aged for six months in a combination of American and French oak.

Etch a sketch

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 etch2I received an invitation to participate with a company, Etching Expressions, to have my logo etched onto a bottle of wine. It seemed like an interesting idea, so I decided to give it a chance.
 
I sent in my logo according to the specifications requested and within a few weeks was the proud owner of a Grand Cru Classes logo’d wine bottle! The logo was reproduced exactly and the etching workmanship seems quite good. The red in our logo doesn’t show up quite as well on the green glass, but that is certainly not the fault of the etching company.
 
My only other criticism would be the fact that this is a bottle of “California Champagne” which is wrong for so many reasons, not the least of which Champagne can only be from one place in the world — Champagne, France. Anyway, the company does offer other generic wines for etching: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir, and also has a selection of name brand wines as well, including Clos du Val, Beringer Vineyards and Veuve Cliquot. Alternately, you can choose to send in your own wine with several caveats mentioned. However, while the potential for damage may be low, I wouldn’t recommend doing this with a prized bottle of wine (just Close up of etched imageshipping it back and forth isn’t so good for the wine, let alone possible breakage).

The service starts at $65.00/bottle, but drops as the volume increases. Beyond etching a corporate logo, they also do personalized greetings such as Happy Birthday or Congratulations with a personal message to the recipient included below the more generic graphic. As party favors, meeting give-aways or other corporate gifts, it can be a nice option for making your mark.

Keep them laughing: My debut in stand-up comedy at Comix

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photo_112208_001As a wine educator, I am a teacher, coach, mentor and performer, all rolled into one. I strive to ensure that my students truly learn about wine, while having a great time doing so. I want them to overcome any obstacles and to begin to really appreciate all of the nuances involved.
Accordingly, I constantly strive to improve my presentation skills, along with my pedagogical approach. Over the years, I have been fortunate to receive some great presentation skills training and I am a confident public speaker as a result. However, I know that while I enjoy wine very much, parts of it can be overwhelming, confusing or just plain boring. So, I sought out a way to solve this issue.

Accordingly, last fall, I enrolled in a stand-up comedy class. While I had never considered myself to be the funniest person, I thought that I had a great sense of humor that occasionally shone through. Apparently not.

When I told my mother that I was taking the class, her immediate response was, “You know you’re not funny, right?” My sister was a little less harsh in her reaction, but was equally surprised by my decision to study stand-up and was considerably anxious about my performance. But, I chose to ignore their concerns.

The class ran for three hours a week for five weeks and was expertly facilitated by the comedianne Cory Kahaney.  At each class meeting, including the very first, participants were instructed to present a comedic set to the instructor and class, both of which would provide constructive feedback.

In between classes, we were writing new material and would occasionally have a specific homework assignment such as writing a joke about our mother or using a particular format such as a switch joke. Just as in a regular class, we were required to demonstrate that we had done the assignment; the only difference was that we had to tell our joke from the stage, rather than submit a piece of paper to the teacher.

We started off the sessions with a two-minute set. This eventually built to 5-6 minutes, which we aimed to perfect by the end of the last class meeting. Now was not the time to experiment or try new things.

A few weeks after the class ended, all of the students were scheduled to perform on stage at a prestigious comedy club in New York City — Comix. While it was a Saturday, it was a little less nerving to perform at 4:00 PM and instead of a room full of strangers, we were surrounded by our friends and family and those of our classmates. Accordingly, we had the benefit of an encouraging crowd.

I was scheduled to appear near the end of the show and waited nervously in the Green Room with fellow colleagues awaiting their turn. One by one, our classmates took the stage, performed their best and made the audience laugh. When my turn finally came, I stepped out onto the stage and was bathed by the brilliant lights. It was a heady moment. My husband and sister (who was clawing my husband since she was still so anxious about my lack of talent) were seated in front of the stage and, along with several other friends, were  a welcome sight, putting me further at ease.

I began my set and was rewarded with laughter. I continued on until I saw the red light in the back of the room indicating that my time was up. I wrapped up with my closing joke and took a bow. I had had an amazing time and was sorry that the time had passed so quickly!

I exited the stage and reunited with the dozen or so friends and family afterward, sharing in the moment.

While I do not anticipate performing entire comedy sets for my students, I do plan to utilize more humor into my teaching and finding ways to always make wine fun. And, when I get the chance, I find myself up on stage doing my 5 minutes for yet a new audience. I may not be funny, but my comedy seems to make people laugh.

See my set: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2601622325874714325&hl=en

Grand Cru Grapevine: More than Manichewitz (April 2009)

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With Passover just ahead, many people might turn their thoughts to Kosher wines, so this month we explore some great alternatives to the usual plonk. It should be noted that these wines don’t need to be restricted to those who keep Kosher as they are wonderful wines in their own right and can just as easily grace the table for Easter, Tax Day or any other time.

Looking ahead for Grand Cru Classes, we will be launching our public classes next month, with the first class scheduled for Sunday, May 3, 2009, kicking off with our popular From Vine to Wine class at 2:00 PM. You can browse our full events listing or navigate using the calendar on the right side of our site. You may wish to note that, in recognition of the imperfect economy, we will be maintaining our 2008 prices for the 2009 season.

Among other exciting news, Tracy has been named the NY Wine Shopping Examiner for Examiner.com, which is currently the #285 website worldwide. She will be writing her column at least four times a week, on all things wine and retail related – secret shopper expeditions, event announcements, sniffing out sales and testing tools. Suggestions and ideas for articles are always welcome!

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

MORE THAN MANACHEWITZ

Unless one is an observant Jew, the choice of a Kosher wine doesn’t spring to mind except for once a year – Passover, which begins April 8th. F or years, Kosher wines had a deservedly bad reputation. Generally, one was stuck with the sickeningly sweet, Manichewitz Concord wine. But, fortunately, times have changed and many new Kosher wines have emerged as high quality wines that just happen to be Kosher. In fact, there is much more than Manichewitz showing up on retail shelves and they are definitely not wines that should be passed over.

Intuitively, people think of Israel when they think of Kosher wines, but this is a needlessly limited view. Rather, Kosher wines are being produced around the world from Australia and Chile to France and Italy. Regardless of where the wine is from, in order to be Kosher, the wine must be produced in accordance with Jewish dietary and other laws. Most specifically, Kosher wines must not be made with any animal products. For example, some wineries use egg whites to fine their wines, but as egg whites are a product of chickens, other fining agents, such as Bentonite, must be employed instead. 

In addition, the wine must be made under rabbinical supervision and handled solely by Sabbath-observing Jews throughout the entire winemaking process through to the point of service. In order to get around this latter point given the logistical issues it creates, some Kosher wines are heated to 185oF permitting non-Jews (or less observant Jews for that matter) to handle the wine without voiding it of its Kosher status. These wines are referred to as meshuval, which is the Hebrew word for cooked. Newer technology reduces the high heat exposure and consequently, is less likely to negatively impact the wine, as it had in the past, especially as this is frequently done prior to fermentation. Accordingly, today’s Kosher wines are indistinguishable from non-Kosher wines when it comes to the taste.

Tasting Notes

Covenant Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Napa Valley, CA (USA), $100.00
This is certainly a far cry from Concord Grape and if you choose to serve or bring this wine to a seder, please invite me! With grapes sourced from a rocky, three-acre parcel of land within the acclaimed Larkmead Vineyard, this wine has meaty, smoke, oak and black fruit aromas. On the palate, it provides medium acidity and full body, with well-integrated tannins and notes of blackberry, cherry, smoke and an undercurrent of cocoa in the long finish. 

Beckett’s Flat Five Stones, Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2007, Margaret River, Australia, $18.00
A boutique winery in Western Australia, Beckett’s Flat has been producing Kosher wines since 1998. This wine emulates white Bordeaux with its blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon. With nice, vibrant acidity, the wine displays cut grass, lime and grapefruit on the palate. It has long length. 

Abarbanel Riesling 2004, Alsace, France, $22.00 (Meshuval)
This is the only kosher Alsatian Riesling imported to the United States. It is a classic Riesling with tropical fruit and honey aromas on the nose. On the palate, it is dry with high acidity and flavors of citrus, honey and minerality. 

Layla Pinot Noir 2006, Mendoza, Argentina, $14.00 (Meshuval)
The grapes are sourced from the highly prized Luján de Cuyo sub-appellation of Mendoza. Showing strawberry notes on the nose, the wine is dry, with bright acidity. It provides flavors of tart berries with an earthiness in the finish.
NB: While not as food friendly for a seder as the Pinot Noir will be, Layla also produces a Malbec that is very good, with a pronounced nose of black fruit and wet leaves, which give way to raspberry and earth on the palate (also $14.00). 

Efrat Israeli Series Merlot 2007, Israel $12.00 (Meshuval)
Established in 1967, Efrat has been producing wine for over 40 years. It has aromas of cherry and a cola note. This dry wine has medium+ acidity and medium tannins. It displays notes of cherry, cola, and oak, followed by a hint of spice in the long finish.

An Examined Life: I join the Examiner.com as NY Wine Shopping Examiner

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This week I began writing a column for Examiner.com as their NY Wine Shopping Examiner.

I am excited about the opportunity to combine my love of shopping with my passion for wine. While my sister , who works in the fashion industy has a closet full of clothes, I have a closet full of wines and you can imagine how they got there. I often feel like a kid in a candy store when I go to a wine shop, which is why I previously did most of my wine shopping online. However, as part of my investigative reporting, I will be venturing out of the house more and seeking out wine and spirit shops around New York.

In addition to profiling local wine shops, I will also cover wine shop events including in-store pours, classes and sales. If it has to do with wine and retail, it’s my beat. Won’t you join me on this journey?

Grand Cru Grapevine: A River Runs Through It (March 2009)

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With the excessively snow-filled season, I think most of us are ready for winter to be over. Accordingly, March’s arrival and its hints at Spring, which is yet to come, is most welcome. However, despite the bad weather, February found Grand Cru Classes keeping busy with media appearances and teaching opportunities.

In concert with Valentine’s Day, Tracy “appeared” on Big Blend magazine’s Champagne Sundays radio show in early February to talk about Sex, Wine & Chocolate. If you missed this broadcast, you can hear the interview online. She will be penning a new column for Big Blend magazine – Words of Winedom – under the title of Grand Cru Guru and will be periodically featured on their radio shows. Her next “appearance” will be April 27 at 3:30 PM EST on Eat, Drink & Be Merry on the topic of wines to accompany burgers & BBQ.

Also, while not wine related, both Tracy and Jared taped a segment for the Tyra Banks Show, which should air later this month.

Of course, live appearances included our Long Island wines class at City Winery, held on February 26. We are grateful to: Comtesse de Therese, Macari Vineyards, Martha Clara Vineyards, Peconic Bay Winery, Waters Crest and Wölffer Estate for their generosity and support in making this event a success!

Looking ahead, Sex, Wine & Chocolate returns to New York on March 19. Women only are invited to please join us at 7:00 PM for an evening of sensuality and decadence. Please see our website to sign up or see more details.

In addition, Tracy’s Great Grapes! series at New York University’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies begins March 24 at 6:30. As a reminder, registration is through NYU only.

And, for your drinking pleasure at home, this month we turn our attention to the wine regions scattered along the Loire River, which should delight your palate as well as your pocketbook.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick

COO: Cork Opening Officer

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

The Loire River is the longest navigable river in France, covering a distance of 629 miles and stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the center of France before heading south. Here, in the land of castles and Kings, French royalty would spend their summers in the countryside away from the hustle and bustle of Parisian city life, a precursor to the Hamptons summer season. From West to East, there are four wine areas within the greater Loire Valley region: Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine and Central Vineyards. With the vast distance covered, a diversity of climates, grapes and wines exist, making the river among the only threads that tie this large wine region together. However, despite their differences, most of these wines are quite food friendly and offer great value.

At the western coast, along the Atlantic Ocean, visitors find themselves in Nantes, where the Melon de Bourgogne grape is produced into Muscadet, a wine with dry, crisp acidity and citrus and mineral notes. The best wines hail from Sevre-et-Maine and are labeled as such. In addition, wines labeled “sur lie” are those which have sat on the lees (spent yeast cells) for at least six months, which imparts a yeastiness, and are generally richer and fuller-bodied. Muscadets pair beautifully with the shellfish which abound in the port, especially oysters and mussels.

Moving inland and east, the climate changes as do the grape varieties. In Anjou-Saumur, we find Chenin Blanc, which has versatility and then some, with the ability to produce outstanding wines in nearly all styles – dry, sweet, still, sparkling, youthful and aged. Dry whites include Savennieres (which is particularly age worthy) while Coteaux du Layon, Quarts de Chaume and Bonnezeaux are the product of grapes, which have been affected by noble rot, creating unctuous dessert wines. Sparkling wines from this area are made in both fully sparkling and petillant (1/2 pressure) styles. A profusion of rosés abound ranging from dry (Rosé de Loire) and slightly sweet (Cabernet d’Anjou and Cabernet de Saumur) to sweet (Rosé d’Anjou). In addition, some Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Gamay are grown here to produce dry, fruity light-bodied reds found under the appellations of AC Anjou, AC Saumur and AC Saumur-Champigny.

Further inland, Touraine sports a continental climate, with more extreme temperature variations from winter to summer. This is the largest area within the Loire, with a wide variety of wines produced. White wines range from the dry Sauvignon de Touraine and AC Touraine, both made from Sauvignon Blanc, to AC Vouvray, produced from 100% Chenin Blanc. As with the Chenin Blanc in Anjou-Saumur, Vouvrays may be dry, medium-sweet or sweet, and may be still or sparkling. The wine style may be designated on the label, i.e. sec (dry) or moelleux(sweet). High quality red wines, made from Cabernet Franc, tend to exhibit herbaceous and raspberry notes in AC Chinon, with similar, but fuller-bodied wines coming from AC Bourgeuil and AC St-Nicholas-de-Bourgeuil. Red wines labeled as AC Touraine are a blend of Gamay and Cabernet Franc.

At the furthest point east, the Central Vineyards serve as the heartland of Sauvignon Blanc, producing wines, which are more mineral and less fruit-forward than their New Zealand brethren, primarily due to the complex soils found here. Key appellations include: AC Sancerre, AC Pouilly Fume, AC Menetou-Salon, AC Quincy and AC Reuilly. With its reputation for high quality wines, Sancerre can become a little pricey, but these latter appellations are less well-known and are thus, generally less expensive. Produced in smaller quantities, red Sancerre is made from Pinot Noir, which makes sense given the region’s close proximity to Burgundy.

Tasting Notes

Bouvet Rosé Excellence Brut NV, Loire Valley, France, $13.00
This sparkling wine has a beautiful pale salmon color. Medium aromas of cotton candy, yeasty/leesy notes, floral/blossom and under-ripe strawberries. Dry with medium acidity and medium mousse, it has flavors of ripe strawberry, yeast and watermelon Jolly Rancher, along with its long length. 

Domaine Les Hautes Noëlles, Les Grange Muscadet sur lie, 2005, Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu, France, $10.00
A youthful wine with leesy aromas and notes of apple, citrus, it has medium+ acidity and medium body. The palate includes flavors of lime, yeast and minerality. 

Vincent Raimbault, Vouvray Sec 2004, Vouvray, France, $15.00
On the nose, the youthful aromas of apples, almond and lanolin linger, giving way to flavors of almond, apple and honey and crisp acidity on the palate.

Vincent Gaudry, Sancerre, Melodie de Vielles Vignes 2006 Sancerre, France $22.00
Produced from 50-year old vines, this wine has pronounced aromas of minerality, citrus and grapefruit. The medium+ acidity is joined by flavors of citrus and apple which persist on the palate, followed by a hint of stone in the finish.

Joguet Chinon Cuvee Terroir 2005 Touraine, France $18.00
The nose shows limited fruit notes of berries, oak and vanilla. In the mouth, it is dry, with ripe berry fruit, medium acidity, medium+ tannins, and herbal and woody notes in the finish.

Chateau de Fesle Bonnezeaux 2003, Anjou-Saumur, France, $63.00
This dessert wine provides developing aromas of apricot, orange peel, honey, floral and spice. It is medium sweet on the palate with medium+ acidity and pronounced flavors of apricot, honey, spice coupled by a nutty note underneath its long length.